The Dodecanese

by Lindsay
The Dodecanese

Called “the twelve”, the Dodecanese are really fifteen major islands and over a hundred islets that hug Turkey’s coast. A mosaic of experiences, it includes whitewashed Patmos and Astypalaia, colourful Symi, volcanic Nisyros (pictured above), craggy Kalymnos, one-of-a-kind Karpathos, and a buffet of other characters. Lesser known Lipsi and Leros are some of Mamakita’s (boutique family travel specialists in Greece) top picks for family-friendly destinations in Greece.

Strategically located on Greece’s southeastern border, they have been fought over and subjugated to different foreign powers. Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, Italians, and others, each wave of outsiders left their traces to bring unique character to each island.

THE MAIN ISLANDS

Map of the Dodecanese Greece

Rhodes is the group’s dominant island since antiquity, drawing holidaymakers in hordes. Luxury tourism followed suit with brand names and mega resorts dotting its coast to capitalise on one of the longest summers (and tourist seasons) in Greece. Where tales of the legendary Colossus (one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the world) originate, its UNESCO world heritage old capital town and generous scattering of ancient ruins add to its allure.

Listed below are other main islands organised by high-speed ferry travel time from Rhodes, where you may be island hopping from. 

Islands under 1 hour by high-speed ferry from Rhodes:

  • Symi – Popularised by the picture-perfect port village that greets arrivals with a colourful welcome, Symi is a good day-trip destination from Rhodes. 

Islands under 2 hours by high-speed ferry from Rhodes:

  • Chalki – 28 square kilometers large, little Chalki is a slice of heaven that impresses well beyond its size. Painted in a festival of colours, its sole village is a party unto itself. Five splendid beaches (including organised and tot-friendly options) complete this unexpected paradise with castle ruins, monasteries and more to explore.
  • Tilos – A Natura 2000 reserve with extraordinary biodiversity, tiny Tilos is for nature lovers. With two main settlements and basic infrastructure, its pristine pebbled beaches are accessed only on foot. 

Islands under 3 hours by high-speed ferry from Rhodes:

  • Nisyros – Still active volcanic Nisyros has an unusual landscape with artistic flair. Wander around colourful craters, then cool off in an exotic black beach . This exciting destination remains thankfully peaceful because of its relative inaccessibility. It’s faster (i.e. by half) to connect to Nisyros from Kos than Rhodes.
  • Kalymnos – Arid and mountainous with dramatic rock escarpments, Kalymnos is an iconic rock-climbing destination. There’s also scuba diving and challenging hiking trails to attract other adventurers, along with its share of impressive beaches. airplane icon
  • Kastellorizo – Steeped in a turbulent history of catastrophe and conquests, Kastellorizo is otherwise quiet with less than 500 inhabitants. There are no beaches, but crystalline waters and a famous Blue Cave. airplane icon

Islands 4 hours or under by high-speed ferry from Rhodes:

  • Kos – Birthplace of Hippocrates, Kos has much to offer: ancient and medieval monuments especially (including the Askelpion healing center), an extensive coastline of long sandy beaches and all the trappings of a robust tourism industry. airplane icon
  • Karpathos – With breathtaking landscapes comprised of fetching coastlines backed by the steep cliffs of its mountainous interiors, Karpathos is also renowned for a serious panigyri scene (traditional festival celebrating a saint) airplane icon

Islands over 4 hours by the fastest available ferry from Rhodes:

  • Patmos – Where St John wrote the Book of Revelation in the Cave of the Apocalypse, Patmos is also a celebrity favoured destination with cosmopolitan sass and a Cycladic feel. 
  • Lipsi (and Aspronisia) – The larger of a cluster of islets, raw, unorganised and crystal clear beaches are the highlight on laid back and little developed Lipsi.
  • Leros – A scuba diving destination with ten wrecks of its coast, Leros has enjoyable hiking paths, great swims, and charming towns that blend Aegean and Italian architectural influences. airplane icon (limited flights)
  • Kasos – Southernmost island in the chain, barren and little known Kasos comes alive with vibrant festivals and feasts island hosts love to hold and share.  airplane icon
  • Astypalaia – A Cycladic-like Dodecanese island with an especially beautiful and bright Chora, and the quasi-famous beach Kamananika. airplane icon
  • Kasos – Southernmost island in the chain, barren and little known Kasos comes alive with vibrant festivals and feasts island hosts love to hold and share. 
  • Agathonisi – For castaway seclusion, there’s not terribly much going on on this northernmost island with five churches, a handful of restaurants, bars and hotels. 

airplane icon Islands with international airports airplane icon Islands with domestic airports

GETTING THERE

Rhodes, Kos and Karpathos have international airports. Rhodes is the busiest of the group, with the fourth busiest airport in Greece (after Athens, Heraklion and Thessaloniki). Four other islands have domestic airports as indicated above.

The Dodecanese islands can be reached by ferry departing from Athens Piraeus port, but trips are long as the farthest group of islands from the mainland. For example, the fastest ferry ride is to Patmos in seven hours, while the journey to Rhodos is just under 14 hours. It’s often more practical to fly into an island like Rhodes, Kos or Karpathos, before connecting to other islands in the group by ferry.

Ferries also connect selected islands to Crete and the Cycladic islands. The fastest connection is between Amorgos to Astypalaia in an hour-and-a-half.