A retreat from the concrete sprawl of Athens and a perfect base for long family holidays in Greece, leafy green Kifisia breathes serenity, glamour and old world charm.
In Greece, when we’re not on the islands, we’re in Kifisia. Our home for three years, and a base for our annual summer holidays, it’s a suburban oasis for young families. And while the southern coastal stretch of Glyfada, Vogliameni and Voula gets all the attention with the recent development of Ellinikon Metropolitan Park, Kifisia has greater appeal for us – we don’t need to be close to the sea when our summers are spent on the islands. It’s also about five degrees cooler than the city centre and south in the sweltering summer heat. Lastly, for longer-term thinking residents, this is where most of Greece’s best international schools congregate.
If you’re considering holidaying or working in Greece for a length of time, here are six reasons why there’s no place else like Kifisia:
1. The village vibe
A lush, intimate suburb with an elegant-chic vibe, Kifisia is complete. Heritage stone houses, once the summer homes of the city’s elite, stand alongside new world boutiques from Bottega Venetta to Zara. Weaved in-between are atmospheric cafes (gorgeous Natu next to the Goulandris Natural History Museum in particular), curated kids boutiques (Kitabu spills over with a choice selection of books and toys), sweet shops (Da Vinci is gelato and waffle heaven), two of the city’s oldest open-air cinemas, luxe boutique hotels, and an eclectic selection of restaurants (Buba presents an impressive menu of modern Thai set in an Asian-inspired fantasy). The convenient and the covetable are packed tightly along tree-lined streets that are for perfect strolls. At its center, near a square large enough for scooting in circles, horse-drawn carriages wait to offer rides, and a balloon man roams with a colourful cloud of cartoon characters.
2. Forest fun
Kids love the forest. And Kifisia has two. One at its doorstep by the train station, which is actually more of a park, and larger Syngrou estate for serious explorers. A 97 hectare wonderland of virgin forest, a simple network of pathways cut through for cyclists, scooters, strollers and joggers. Wander off and you might spot a huddle of turtles hiding out in the woods. Families have picnics on lawns, and hang bunting from trees to celebrate birthdays. There are also some buildings of interest to explore – a beekeeping museum by the main entrance where the parking lot is, a gothic styled Christian Orthodox chapel (Agios Andreas) designed by Ernst Ziller, and a greenhouse of cacti and succulents.
3. Playground in a park
Public playgrounds have a sketchy reputation in Athens, but Mavromichali park is one of a kind. Hidden away in a quiet, upscale residential neighbourhood, there’s a section for big kids, and another for little. All nestled within beautiful garden grounds with benches for sipping on takeaway coffees under the canopy of leafy green trees.
4. Location
Kifisia may not be near Pireaus, but more pleasant is the quieter port of Rafina a 35-minute drive away. Also in the area are two of Athen’s better malls, The Mall, and Golden Hall with Xplore – an impressive kids entertainment center. Attica Zoological Park is another 25-minute drive out in Spata, next to American-run MacArthurGlen outlet mall.
5. International schools
A host of international schools cluster around the north. British-blended options include Byron, Campion and the illustrious Saint Catherine’s educating children of the Greek elite. With a fancy compound and reputation to match, American College is US-based, along with American Community Schools and Anatolia College. Non-country specific international schools include International School of Athens, Costeas-Geitonas School, Doukas, and I.M Panagiotopoulos. And where an alternate language of instruction is offered, there’s French-speaking Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix and German-speaking distribution Deutsche Schule.
Outside of the north, St. Lawrence College is located south in Koropi and the International School of Pireaus in Pireaus. Both are British based.
6. The organic farmers market
Finally, there’s the weekly farmers market (“laiki”) we love. On Kokkinara Street, the one in Kifisia is organic. Offering seasonal fruits and vegetables, dry grains, eggs, and even yoghurt and cheese, it pops up every Monday from 4 a.m. to 7:30 p.m..
