The nondescript capital of Evia is hardly an obvious destination for tourists and Athenians alike, but holds a special appeal for families. It’s also just an hour’s drive from Athens.
Last updated 31 Dec 2023
Chalkida is the entrypoint to Evia, connecting the long island slip to the mainland at its center. It’s also just an hour’s drive from Athens. With its ease of access, why isn’t it more popular than it is?
Without the obviously breathtaking to draw souvenir-seeking crowds to these parts, it’s easily overlooked. And while it may not be the first place I’d suggest for a first visit to Greece, it’s a good day trip destination if you’re spending some time in Athens, or stopping over on a longer summer itinerary (travel further north to Mandoudi port and summer ferries will take you to the Sporades).
Here are five things we always do with the kids in Chalkida:
WATERSIDE PROMENADE WALKS
Built along the Evian Gulf, the city’s waterside promenade is perfect for slow family strolls and kiddie scoots. Start from the iconic 19th century Red House on the northern end, where an assembly of cafes boasting elevated sea views sit beside wide open spaces where giggling children scoot and play tag.
The walk towards the old bridge is lined with trendy cafes and touristy taverns advertising moussaka on stand-up banners at the entrance. The better restaurants, however, are found past the old bridge where it gets quieter on the waterfront. Euvous presents well-executed modern dining that’s big on meats, and an even more impressive appetiser menu. A few doors down, Tsafaki ouzerie is popular for seafood and a taste of the island’s specialty shellfish.
The old drawbridge connects the mainland to the island at the strait’s narrowest point. Linger long enough and you might notice the “crazy waters” that confounded Aristotle with water currents that change directions eight times a day.
Past the bridge, a ten minute walk down, is outdoor beach bar and restaurant Asteria. Here, the young and svelte gather for cocktails and club beats, alongside families that hover around a fenced playground. This is a space for everyone.
THE MINI FUN PARK
Close to the city square is a mini fun park that’s just the right size – not too large so adults are not hounded into spending hours, but with a handful of attractions for a brief fill of fun. A mini bumper car ring and eighties-era amusement park aside, trampolines by the sea are perfectly positioned for a sunset bounce.
BISKOTOGLYCO SWEET BOUTIQUE
By the Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi in the city’s main square (Avantes) is a small heaven of dessert, both traditional and updated. A medley of textures and luscious flavours are the stuff of cake dreams. But it’s the velvety soft serve and artisanal ice cream the girls are jumping for every visit. From this central spot, you’re not far the city’s main pedestrian-only shopping street (Avanton). Put a google pin on Zara and you’ll find where the shopping action surrounds. A restaurant worth mentioning in the vicinity is Piato. Set in soothing Scandanavian styled interiors, a luscious repertoire of modern-Greek flavours stream out from the kitchen. Or just a very tasty burger if that’s more up your kid’s alley.
ALYKES – ROCK POOLS, BEACH BARS & BOUNCY CASTLES
Better than most beaches in Athens, and with less of its crowds (although you will still be hard-pressed for loungers on a summer weekend), Alykes was a frequent escape for a summer splash when we lived in the big city. Its fine, fair coloured sand and turquoise waters are unusual for dark and wild volcanic Evia. An attractive respite for families, a family-friendly line of beach bars line its shores, many with a formidable set-up of bouncy castles and playground equipment.
Daluz is our favourite in a quieter corner at the far end, with a shallow seabed that stretches for a distance, and decent-for-a-beach-bar fare they can serve to your beach lounger. Alternatively, kick-back on grassy lawns of Ippokampus under the lush shade of mulberry and fig trees.
Between stretches of sandy shoreline at Alykes are rocky outcrops that only became interesting once we had kids. Easy-access rock pools teem with sea life waiting to be discovered. Endless are the hours they spend watching shrimp and baby fish scuttle up and down flooded cracks, collecting and releasing tiny hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks in search of crabs and slithering baby starfish.
SEASIDE SEAFOOD DINING
Seafood is a highlight in Greece. And in Evia, there’s more to get excited about. Home to varieties of shellfish only available in these parts, Greeks come to Chalkida to feast on exotic, fresh-caught delicacies. Paleologos is a seaside tavern that keeps us eating till no end, in part because the kids have found a good time running in circles in the little garden behind.
In it’s largeness, Evia doesnt quite feel like an island. But twenty minutes out from Chalkida’s city is Nea Artaki with a distinct island vibe, and more seafood taverns to choose from.
