Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, why do tourists pine after Greece’s pretty girl next door?
Last updated: 3 July 2023
Paros is friendly. Boasting a winning combination of luminous shores, and whitewashed villages both sleepy and spirited, all is set within a cozy 200 square kilometers of gently undulating land. Paros also has all-rounded appeal. From historical sites and hiking trails to kid’s activities like horse-riding and farm visits, there’s lots to colour the itinerary in between beach dips. And while Paros may not have the X-factor type allure of some of its big hitting neighbours (Santorini and Mykonos), it’s a quintessential Cycladic beauty that combines the polish of a sophisticated tourist destination with pockets of unadulterated enchantment.
WHERE TO STAY
Where to stay is usually a toss-up between Parikia, the main port, and Naoussa, the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene slice of a seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.
You can also let your location be guided that dream beach house find – always an attractive arrangement for travelling parties with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its egg-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands. And wherever you pick, you shouldn’t be far from most village conveniences like mini markets, bakeries and tavernas.
— PARIKIA —
The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where you will arrive if you’re travelling by ferry. Not particularly charming at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, colourful walkways are scattered with the unexpected remains of an intriguing past. Somewhere within this tangle of streets is Symposium – an atmospheric bolthole for breakfast, coffee, and crepes where you can people watch from its elevated steps under a bright bougainvillea canopy.
Parikia’s plethora of amenities that make it a choice of convenience for families. Livadia beach is also located within walking range. Backed by cafe-bars that have furnished its shores with sunbeds and parasols, all is set-up for easy dips with baby. Meanwhile, parents can take turns at a beach volleyball game in front of the Paros Nautical Club. Looking for a dreamier splash? Child-friendly Marcelo is a 7-minute drive (or a 5-minute boat taxi trip from the port) the bay after, with shallow, sandy shores and aquamarine waters.
If you don’t mind the walk into town, the stretch between Krios and Marcelo on the outskirts of Parikia offers a perfect balance of serenity, proximity to town, and a beautiful bit of beach.
— NAOUSSA —
We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques, slick restaurants and hip cafe-bars, its alleyways are for getting enjoyably lost in. And along the cafe-lined waterfront, the bonus addition of resident ducks entertain children eager to make new friends.
Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and the popular Kolymbithres), other attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm and Petra Farm are in the area. If you’re planning on whipping up some quick meals for the kids in your Airbnb, you will also find food supplies from the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) within the vicinity.
Evenings are when the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive. As the glow of the setting sun bathes the village in pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill perfectly set tables to order ceviche and champagne. While inviting, we don’t suggest the waterfront restaurants here as the most child-friendly. Tightly-packed tables force you to swivel sideways to get through. And if kids roam far off, there’s the constant fear they’ve fallen off the harbour’s edge.
For a thoroughly more relaxed dining experience, head out to Thalami in Ambelas – a sleepy fishing village a 10-minute drive from Naoussa. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and reposeful ambience delight in equal measure.
— ALYKI —
If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village is designed for families. Starting from the village beach, a tamarisk-tree shaded playground is located directly behind where the seaside promenade starts. Stop by Sophie’s for a crisp, custard-filled bougatsa before kicking-back on a bench while watching the kids on the swings.
The promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) offers a complete selection of eateries that will take you from breakfast to seafood taverna dinner (To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki are our favourites), and sweets. No energy even for restaurant dining? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for takeaway packets of Italian vegetarian (e.g. eggplant lasagne) to heat-up in your home oven in 15 minutes. It’s always easier to feed the kids at home.
If you’re looking for off-beach activities to escape the afternoon sun, head over to the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths 10 minutes away in the direction towards Parikia. A little haven of cypress, olive and fruit trees watered by a natural spring, thousands of the yellow striped moths with orange underwings take refuge in its foliage. After following the short winding path through a secret garden-like trail, refresh with fresh orange juice in the cafe right next to a shaded playground.
BEACH BEAUTIES
The beach scene in Paros is an especially family-friendly one. With a swimmable coastline encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are of the champagne-hued, fine sand variety that’s perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), lunar-like bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even all-natural clay beaches (Kalogeros) for a healing mud bath.
So which of its 40 shores is the best place to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here. If you have packed light and arrived without umbrellas and beach mats, make sure you find some place with a beach bar that will have sunbeds and parasols set-up for you.
INLAND VILLAGES
I love the Cyclades for its charming walks through all-white villages cloaked in bouganvilliea bushes. In the less-trodden villages like Lefkes (the old capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), you can do this without worrying about the kids bumping into too many people. For a more serious trek through herb (and goat) scented countryside, a Byzantine-era hiking trail paved in Parian marble connects Lefkes to Prodromos in about an hour and a half.
NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS
Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by beautiful neighbours. Antiparos (partly popularised by resident Tom Hanks) is just a 10-minute journey by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Alternatively Michael Zeppos organises private boat tours to Antiparos and south Paros.
Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while local all-day boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.
WHEN TO VISIT
As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quieter beaches and village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. In Greece, the sliver of weeks between seasons (mid June to end-June and early to mid-September) is my preferred time to visit for the best weather and fewer crowds. But with Paros’ rising popularity, early to mid-June may be better if summer doesn’t arrive late. By winter, the island’s residents dwindle down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.
GETTING THERE
Swoop into Paros’ domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families. A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port in Athens. We recently hopped on the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4, offering cafe-style seating which I find more comfortable for families (than airplane-style seating), and returned on Blue Star 1 which I wouldn’t take again. A massive vessel accommodating over 1,800 passengers, there are too many people to contend with for seats (unassigned, so good luck with finding group seating), toilets, food, and just about everything.
