Adrift off the southwestern reaches of Greece, Karpathos is remote. With a view towards North Africa in the distant horizon, what does this far-flung and little-known island have to offer?
The iridescent colours of its Instagram beach images first lured us. Along with a reputation for windsurfing, and romantic stories of mountain villages akin to living museums untouched by time. In spite of its impressive roster of attractions, you will still hear little of Karpathos. But as steadily as the asphalt road to Olympus completed in the 1970s, luxe villas are beginning a creep from its crystalline shoreline.
After exiting the airport, continuous blasts of wind remind us that we have arrived in wilderness. This is what makes the island the best windsurfing spot in Greece. It’s also why you will be a little hard-pressed to find child-friendly swimming on the island. At the same time, as we zig-zag through the craggy rockscapes of lofty mountains and azure seas below, the beauty of this land is immediately captivating. Combined with some well-researched choices, Karpathos can be a beautiful and easy adventure with kids.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
While the island is not huge, travel times are made longer by winding roads through its mountainous spine. I was slightly taken aback when I discovered that visiting Olympos, the island’s main village of interest, was going to require an hour’s drive from our apartment rental in Amoopi.
Stay where your main interests revolve. With young children among us, ours reliably surround the beach, shifting our focus on the southeastern bit of the island.
— AMOOPI SEASIDE VILLAGE —
Palm tree studded Amoopi is my pick for where to stay with young children, just a 10-minute drive from the conveniences of Pigadia port. Entirely touristy, but relaxed, picturesque, and complete with tavernas and mini-marts.
Two sparkling bays sit a short walk from each other, with the cutest Cycladic church sitting prettily in blue and white on a headland outcrop. The beaches crowd out quickly. Which is why it’s a particularly good idea to live nearby (Onar beach house and Nymfes boutique resort occupy stellar spots) – snag a sunbed at 9-ish in the morning, and return after the kids have taken an hour to finish their eggs at home.
— PIGADIA PORT? —
The benefits of living in and island’s main town are always attractive for families. And while Pigadia port is convenient, it’s not the prettiest. The waterfront stretch and lane running parallel behind offers the usual charms of most Greek villages, but the built-up area behind leads into concrete volumes of ’80s pensions and a messy assembly of apartment blocks.
Still, we spent many nights in Pigadia. Insider tips: If you’re dropping in for dinner and groceries, Ariadne supermarket in the center is open until 11 pm ( the usual time is 9 pm), so you can complete dinner, get your groceries and return home. Of the 3 pharmacies here, we found Taskirigou a little further up and past St George’s church the most well-equipped.
CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH BAYS
Blustery winds play a big role in enjoying the beach in Karpathos (or not). The Aegean’s “meltemi” winds blow from the northwest in summer, turning the western shoreline into a fierce frenzy of wind-whipped waves.
The island’s eastern shores harbour calmer waters, with the meltemi blowing from land to sea. On this covetable stretch, coastal beauties cater to every beach style. In the north, pebbly, pine tree framed waters in exotic turquoise and deep blue hues. Moving south, Caribbean-like bays feature sandy and shallow waters that stretch out for great lengths. Our favourite pool-like enclaves are found here.
Bring strong beach towel clips, and perhaps bath robes (which stay on better) instead of towels for little tots. In the peak of summer, sunbeds and shade are hard to secure. So be disciplined – make an early start, or prepare to visit late (around 5pm) as the crowds retire. Still can’t find a spot? Throw your towel down onto the beach with just a few more hours till sunset. Lastly, goggles or snorkel masks are worth their luggage space. From wide-eyed flounder skimming over a seabed dotted with hermit crabs to the long snouted cornetfish, Karpathos teems with abundant sea life.
OLYMPOS
Still in touch with the traditions of a forgotten time, Olympos is an encounter with life lost to modernity. Previously difficult to reach, access now is easy. An asphalt road offers a smooth but snaking cliffside drive that requires caution. There are hairpin turns throughout (not a fun ride for the car-sick prone), dual lanes merging into single lanes, and falling rocks which have knocked off parts of the road’s protective rails. Wild goat sightings get more frequent as you close in on Olympos, and never fail to excite the kids.
There were fewer tourists than I imagined when we arrived at 4 p.m. A hot time to be exploring any Greek village in July (even from these heights), but its narrow walkways are mostly shaded.
“Living museum”, as it is often described, is perhaps a slightly romanticised encapsulation. Still, Olympos is an especially charming Greek village. Cloaked in the sentimentality of things past, yiayia (Greek for grandmother) continues to crochet traditional headscarves for tourists to don. In a female-centered village (often described as a matriarchy) following an exodus of work-seeking men, she had to develop self-sufficiency on the isolated mountain top (without electricity until 1970) in the neighbouring fields of Avlonas. Fierce keepers of their Byzantine heritage, she must have so many stories to tell. For a more than superficial experience of the village and it’s traditions, take a guided visit with Ecotourism Karpathos.
OUTDOOR ADVENTURES
Rock climbing, trekking, windsurfing, boat trips to Saria and Kasos, Karpathos has lots to offer older children and teens wanting to try their hand at a variety of sports.
Chicken bay is the beginners windsurfing playground, where our younger girls splashed around in shallow, crystal waters, watching dad at his lessons every morning.
DINING WITH KIDS
After seven days of circling the island for a good meal, I’m going to put it out there – Karpathos has a lackluster dining scene. For us, that is. Menus tended to repeat a small selection of the same dishes, and execution was somehow always lacking – too much bahari (a local spice), too little salt… Just very unlike the luscious meals the Greek islands usually spoil us with in our journeys. Perhaps it’s because they mainly cater to tourists – you find few Greeks from Greece in these way-out parts. Or maybe we just continuously made a poor selection of choices. Here is our selection of better dining experiences with great ambience to make-up for flavour.
— LIFE OF ANGELS (PIGADI) —
The best spot in portside Pigadi for a meal is not right by the busy waterfront and its line of moussaka-touting tavernas, but one level above at Life of Angels. The sun-speckled yard with a bamboo thatched roof draped over with grape vines has a full view of the sea. For full cover from the afternoon sun, head through the indoor area and out into the covered balcony (with limited seating). It’s a pure experience with a history going back to the mid-1800’s. Owner Zoe’s mom makes the bread, uses organic ingredients sourced locally, sharing recipes passed down from her family’s kitchen. The roast chicken thigh with rice with tomato-flavoured rice saw the kids having their most successful meal on the island.
— FINIKI MAMA CUISINE —
In the middle of the quiet family beach of Finiki, the eatery under a thatched roof of dried palm tree leaves is buzzing. Mama’s spin on traditional seafood favourites (fancy a hint of curry in the shrimp pasta?) refreshes tired taste buds. While there isn’t a lot of space for fidgety kids, there’s a beach right in front for a walk or run mid-meal.
— UNDER THE TREE —
Under the Tree is perfectly placed with swathes of space opening up into the sea one level below. Dipped in gold, it’s magic at sunset. The menu is a simple, no-nonsense selection of grilled meat and seafood. The tables fill quickly from 7 pm (a few visitors were turned away without reservations), but the service is also brisk.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
We visited in August, but Elias, our Airbnb host, mentions the best time to visit is in September. With its southerly location, like Crete, the sea is still warm in September and perhaps October. The sun is also less intense, the days, less windy, and you won’t have trouble finding sunbeds on the beach, or parking in Pigadia.
HOW TO GET THERE
Unless you’re happy to take a 14-hour ferry trip from Athens, it’s likely you’re flying into Karpathos. There are also international flights from Italy, Belgium and other European destinations. Otherwise, you can combine it with an itinerary including Crete and Rhodos – its only near neighbours.
