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Destinations

Skiathos: The Family Gem of the Sporades

by Lindsay Jul 08, 2026

written by Lindsay

View of the island from Bourtzi, Skiathos.

An emerald isle washed in sapphire seas, a combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🎣 🏇

On clear days, the gentle silhouette of Skiathos emerges on the horizon as we linger over coffee at Kimasi Beach in our home village of Mandoudi, North Evia. Part of the Sporadic island complex formed by rocks thrown in a clash of the mythic giant brothers Otos and Efialtes, the island continues the lush, pine-cloaked greenery of North Evia. Alive with birdsong and butterflies that drift among forested hills descending into pristine waters in golden coves, it is a world apart from the familiar Cycladic image of Greece—a landscape of bare rock, whitewashed villages and cobalt seas that has come to define the country’s postcard identity.

What Skiathos possesses that Evia does not are dreamy, honey-hued beaches of astonishing clarity. Since the opening of a new ferry port in Mandoudi (a 2-hour road trip from Athens), Skiathos is now just a 40-minute crossing on a spiffy Seajets fast-ferry. Skiathos is also the Sporades‘ most connected island, served by an international airport famed for its unusually short runway on a narrow isthmus, where aircraft enthusiasts gather to watch planes skim thrillingly overhead during take-off and landing.

Descent to Small Banana Beach — The sparkle of small Banana Beach through the pines.

Beyond its cinematic landscapes made famous by Mamma Mia!, Skiathos proves itself remarkably family-friendly. While pockets of the island buzz with summer energy, its overall pace remains relatively relaxed. Days revolve around calm, gently shelving beaches and leisurely tavernas, punctuated by memorable adventures—from horse rides through pine forests and into the sea, to easy boat excursions, whether a quick private hop across to Tsougria or a day of fishing on the Aegean. It is this rare combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.

WHERE TO STAY

For families and first-time visitors, the southwest coast is the island’s sweet spot with our favourite swims. Here, a string of sandy beach bays—from Vasilias and Achladies to Agia Paraskevi, Troulos and Koukounaries—is connected by the island’s main coastal road, striking a balance between relaxed beach life and easy access to town.

Big Banana Shoreline — Big Banana gave us our favourite swims on Skiathos, though reaching it takes a little determination.

Since the opening of its international airport in 1972—and the global spotlight cast by Mamma Mia! in 2008—Skiathos has evolved into one of Greece’s best-equipped island destinations. Yet development has remained refreshingly restrained, with low-rise buildings nestled into the island’s verdant hillsides.

Families are spoiled for choice with an assortment of sophisticated beachfront resorts. We stayed at Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas, where contemporary interiors blend with traditional Greek architecture just steps from Vromolimnos Beach. At the luxury end of the spectrum, ELIVI has transformed the historic Xenia Hotel into the island’s flagship seaside resort, occupying a coveted outcrop of the Koukounaries peninsula.

Skiathos Old Town Alleyways — Old Town walks.

Unless your accommodation includes parking, we’d avoid staying in Skiathos Town if you have a car. Parking is severely limited during the summer months, and navigating the maze of narrow streets can quickly become frustrating. While the Old Town is a delight to explore on foot, its steep, stone-paved alleyways can be difficult for families with prams or grandparents.

IN AND AROUND TOWN

As with most Greek island Choras, the greatest charm lies within the steep labyrinth of Old Town, where narrow stone alleyways wind their way up and down between whitewashed houses. Teetering on over touristy, British pub-style boltholes and the bubble-gum facades of mass-market ice-cream parlours have sprouted in village corners, alongside a polished mix of massage studios and elegant boutiques (Kalokairi stocks some of our favourite Greek designers, including Greek Archaic Kori).

Along the main shopping street, Papadiamantis Street, seek out Alaska for homemade gelato, including local flavours such as baklava. Just opposite, Il Posto serves excellent coffee and relaxed breakfasts with an atmosphere that feels almost Parisian.

Alaska Skiathos — Alaska – our favourite gelateria and cafe in the center of town.

FROM COFFEE TO DINNER

Seeking out spaces where the pace is a little less hurried (e.g. the fringe of Old and New Town), these are the spots we enjoyed meals out with kids between souvlaki wraps and a quick pasta toss-up in our apartment kitchen rental.

— Bakaliko (Skiathos Town – Eastern Waterfront) —

Seafood shines at the waterfront restaurant strip at the opposite end of Skaithos Town – where children scoot along the traffic-free promenade while parents amble with prams towards the heart of town. Our first choice, Agrokiali, came recommended by our hotel, but the queue persuaded us instead to claim a prime table beside the water at Bakaliko, where calming sage-green and cream interiors overlook the harbour.

Aside from the classics (grilled sardines and fried thrapsalo), the menu celebrates the kind of homespun dishes my mother-in-law would prepare—octopus braised in red wine, cuttlefish with spinach, fish soup, and other Greek classics. Simple, deeply comforting and quietly memorable.

— Bourtzi (Old Port, Opposite Old Town) —

Perched on the small peninsula fortified by the Venetians in the early 13th century, an expansive café nestles beneath a dense canopy of pines interwoven with sail shades, its terraces opening onto sweeping views in every direction. It’s a perfect place to begin a morning exploring the Old Town, before the sun gathers strength. Antsy children have plenty of space to roam among the trees and old stone walls, while chilled yoghurt smoothies provide refreshment before setting off again.

— O Batis (Old Town) —

Not quite the island’s finest example of traditional taverna cooking, but the setting more than compensates. Squeezed among the tiered restaurants climbing the hillside above the Old Port, the terrace looks out over the sea through the branches of a magnificent oak tree that has improbably taken root on the slope. Secure a table along the edge of one of the loveliest places in the area to linger over a leisurely Moussaka.

— Big Bad Wolf (Koukounaries) —

Drawn by the relaxing calm of a patio of oak and olive trees, we settled after our koukounaries swim in Big Bad Wolf. Its namesake inspired a carnivorous meal choice of succulent pork tenderloin with velvety pumpkin puree (our menu favourite), lamb chops and more potato puree, and grilled chicken with mushrooms. Parking is available behind by the gated narrow dirt path.

— O Tarsanas (Kechries – Best Reached by 4WD or Boat) —

As we cautiously negotiated the steep, one-kilometre dirt track leading to the taverna, we couldn’t help wondering why neither our hosts nor the reviews we’d skimmed had mentioned the very real possibility of our two-wheel-drive becoming stranded. Sensing our apprehension on the return journey, owner-chef Argyris smiled reassuringly. “Don’t worry,” he said. “If you get stuck, I have three trucks. We’ll pull you back up.”

O Tarsanas Taverna in Kechries, Skiathos

Fortunately, the moment we arrived, the anxiety of the descent melted away. Between landscaped lawns drizzled over with sunbeds, olive trees and the thick shade of mulberry, the taverna occupies a secluded outcrop of the island’s wilder northern coastline. Here, Argyris has transformed his grandfather’s estate into a hidden seaside haven where the food more than lives up to the setting. The menu is concise, and shaped largely by the day’s catch from local fishing boats, but every dish is executed with refinement and a delicately balanced richness of flavour that lingers long after the meal has ended.

WHEN TO VISIT

Skiathos is at its liveliest during July and August, when every taverna, beach bar and boat excursion is in full swing. We find ourselves visiting then only because our children’s school holidays leave little choice. Families seeking a little more breathing room may prefer June or September. The weather remains warm for swimming, yet the beaches are noticeably quieter, parking becomes less of a competitive sport, and you’ll enjoy a more relaxed pace across the island.

GETTING THERE

One of the easiest Greek islands to reach, Skiathos is served by direct summer flights from numerous European cities, while year-round domestic flights connect via Athens. If you’re already exploring mainland Greece, ferries operate from Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Mantoudi in northern Evia.

FIND A FERRY FROM MANDOUDI

Click on your planned date of travel for a view of the ferry schedule to Skiathos from Mandoudi as provided by Ferryhopper:

Jul 08, 2026 0 comment

Sporades

Our Favourite Skiathos Family Swims

by Lindsay Jul 05, 2026

written by Lindsay

Skiathos is renowned for a covetable coastline where shimmering blue-green waters meet broad sweeps of champagne-coloured sand beaches, inviting hours of sculpting sand citadels. Sheltered by the island’s hilly, pine-covered interior, the south coast is home to its best-known beaches, while the rugged north remains largely undeveloped and exposed to the open Aegean.

Although much of the southern coastline follows the same captivating formula of calm, sandy bays, each beach has its own personality. Here’s how our favourite family-friendly beaches compare, along with the practical insights we wish we’d known beforehand—because family travel is unpredictable enough without avoidable surprises.

BIG BANANA BEACH – FOR THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SWIM

These are, for us, the most beautiful waters in the Sporades. At the western end of Big Banana, luminous turquoise shallows invite children to wander ever farther from the shore. Beneath their feet, sand flecked with quartz and calcite catches the sunlight, giving the beach a bright, shimmering glow.

Big Banana beach
Entrance to ELIVI Resort
ELIVI Resort Grounds

Its only real drawback is accessibility.

Finding a parking space is the first challenge. Reaching the beach is the second. Even if you’re fortunate enough to secure one of the limited roadside spaces near the entrance to ELIVI, there’s still a 200-metre walk to the shore, including a steep descent towards the final dirt path. Families with infants and toddlers may decide the approach is more effort than it’s worth. Those with older children, however, will be richly rewarded.

When we first visited more than a decade ago, Banana was one of Skiathos’ liveliest beaches. Returning with children, we were surprised by how much it had changed.

The road now ends at a barrier, although pedestrians can continue on the black ribbon of asphalt winding through ELIVI’s resort grounds. By Greek law, private developments must preserve public access to the beach. And so as we treaded on, trying not to overheat, quiet electric buggies whisk hotel guests between terracotta villas and the sea. The once pine-covered hillside has been transformed into a peppering of discreet luxury residences—a development that divided the island’s long-time devotees.

Halfway down, the path forks. To the right is Small Banana, where the island’s long-standing nudist tradition continues alongside ELIVI’s stylish Black Bird beach club. Families will generally prefer continuing left towards Big Banana.

Small Banana beach — *Small banana beach is also a nudist beach. Families tend toward Big Banana.*

As the final dirt path descends beneath towering pines, the view slowly unfolds. White daybeds scattered across the sand resemble oversized marshmallows against an impossibly blue sea. It is as breathtaking as we remembered.

Ironically, making the Banana beaches less accessible has restored much of their former tranquility. Where visitors could once park much closer to the shore, the longer approach now seems to deter many day-trippers. Even at the height of summer, the resort’s sunbeds sat half-empty during our visit, while independent beachgoers gathered beneath the natural shade of the pines fringing the beach. There is also the option to rent the resort’s daybeds (€40 per pair, or €50 for the front row at the time of our visit).

The only dining option is The Nest, ELIVI’s beachfront restaurant. While menu prices are generally reasonable, portions can feel surprisingly modest—we smiled when a €12 Greek salad arrived with four bites of tomato. Extras quickly add up, with bottled water priced at €5. Perhaps that’s another reason this magnificent beach remains one of Skiathos’ quieter.

VROMOLIMNOS – FOR EFFORTLESS BEACH DAYS

In our view, Vromolimnos is comparably beautiful as iconic Koukounaries, with crystal-clear shallows meet soft golden sand, yet it somehow feels a little more relaxed. Its sheltered bay is ideal for swimming, while the lighter crowds make it noticeably easier to find a parking space (available by the entrance of Skiathos Holiday Suites and Villas) —and, once you’ve conquered that, your own patch of sand.

The beach offers two distinct moods. Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas rents sunbeds to the public (€20 per pair at the time of our visit), where the atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried. A little farther along, Porto Paradiso shifts the energy up a notch, with tightly arranged sunbeds, oversized beanbags, music that gradually builds throughout the day, and a beach volleyball court.

What surprised us most about Porto Paradiso, however, was the food. Beach clubs aren’t usually where we expect memorable meals, but the kitchen comfortably exceeded expectations. If you’re planning to spend the day at Vromolimnos, we’d happily settle in here for lunch or dinner without leaving the sand.

KOUKOUNARIES – FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS (OR TROULOS AS PLAN B)

Koukounaries is the island’s signature shoreline. Its popularity, naturally, means it gets busy. Fortunately, the atmosphere remains relaxed rather than rowdy, making it an enjoyable choice for families—provided you arrive early enough to secure both parking and a sunbed at one of the four beach bars.

Two free public car parks serve opposite ends of the beach. During our visit, the more popular western car park was spilling over with cars parked and more cars making rounds to find parking, but we found a shaded space without difficulty at the quieter eastern end by the bridge river crossing. From there, a short stroll along a timber boardwalk leads to the beach. We set up our folding chairs beneath the trees, enjoying both the natural shade and a little extra breathing room from the busiest part of the shoreline.

If Koukounaries feels too busy for your liking, retreat two beaches east to Troulos. The water is as inviting, and the crowds noticeably thinner.

Jul 05, 2026 0 comment

Places to Stay Sporades

Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas: The Sweet Spot on Skiathos’ Southwest Coast

by Lindsay Jul 03, 2026

written by Lindsay

Skiathos Holiday Villas & Suites Entrance

SKIATHOS HOLIDAY SUITES & VILLAS

1 to 3-Bedrooms | From €220 per night

Set within expansive, lawned grounds just behind Vromolimnos Beach, Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas strikes a rare balance between the freedom of space in an apartment and the ease of a hotel. It’s the sort of place where children can wander barefoot between breakfast, the lawn and the beach, while parents enjoy the luxury of not having to sweep up crumbs, make beds or negotiate another restaurant meal when everyone is running low on energy.

Its greatest asset is its location. The walk to Vromolimnos Beach takes little more than two minutes, making forgotten buckets, lunchtime naps and impromptu swims effortless. Equally valuable is the combination of spacious one-, two- and three-bedroom accommodation with hotel comforts such as daily housekeeping, regular linen changes and breakfast served from 8am until 11.30am—an indulgence for families whose mornings rarely run to schedule.

The grounds of Skiathos Holiday Villas & Suites

THE SPACE

A long-established property thoughtfully refreshed, the resort comprises a collection of rustic-contemporary suites and villas where natural stone, solid wood and understated black accents create interiors that feel both elegant and welcoming. There is no swimming pool, gym or glossy kids’ club—and none feels missed. Instead, children have generous gardens dotted with swings inviting the kind of imaginative outdoor play that rarely needs organised entertainment, while the sea remains just beyond the garden.

The attention to detail impresses. Kitchenettes are genuinely equipped for family stays, with a Nespresso machine, dishwasher, stainless-steel kettle and practical touches such as drying racks and wash basins for rinsing swimsuits. Olive Era toiletries, complimentary bottled water to tide you over until your first supermarket run, beach towels and reserved sunbeds all reflect the same thoughtful approach. Although there isn’t a guest washing machine, laundry can be arranged through reception with ease.

To the beach from Skiathos Holiday Villas

THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

The location continues to shine once you step outside the gates. Porto Paradiso next door elevates the typical beach-bar experience with surprisingly good food, while just up on the main road you’ll find Lori’s Souvlaki for effortless takeaway dinners, a well-stocked mini market for kitchen essentials, and Kioupi for modern Greek cuisine. Vromolimnos is also home to Skiathos Boats, whose private transfers to Tsougrias take just 15 minutes from your hotel doorstep —an ideal first boat trip for younger children—along with longer excursions to Lalaria and the island’s more remote coastline.

ONE THING TO KNOW

If you’re travelling with toddlers, we’d recommend choosing a suite rather than a villa. The villas are split over two levels, and the internal staircases have low parapet walls that may constantly worry parents in the company of adventurous little climbers. The single-level suites remove that concern entirely.

Jul 03, 2026 0 comment

Cyclades Insider Insights

Bleecker & Love Founder Irina Douka on the Best of Greece with Kids

by Lindsay Dec 05, 2025

written by Lindsay

If you’ve roamed the village boutiques in just about any Greek island, you’re likely to have spotted (and coveted) a row of clutch-sized Bleecker Bags in eye-catching prints. I have five. Originally designed as a wristlet she could hang on her son’s stroller, its waterproof lining makes it the perfect beach companion. Athens-born founder Irina Douka has a knack for seeking out the stylish and practical. Quite like Paros – the island she chose for her flagship store and second home. Here, she shares her insights on family travel in Greece.

1. What are your top 3 destinations for family travel in Greece

Our top three destinations for family travel are Paros, Spetses, and Tinos. Paros is ideal for its beautiful beaches and a relaxed, family-friendly vibe. Spetses offers a charming, car-free environment great for walking and exploring together. Tinos is a favorite for its authentic villages, excellent food, and peaceful atmosphere, making it the perfect calm, family-oriented getaway. On the mainland, we also enjoy nearby destinations like Porto-Heli for quick getaways and family activities.

2. Can you share some of your go-to child-friendly addresses in Paros?

Golden Beach Hotel for a carefree lunch or dinner, Afros for breakfast and snacks, and Vickys for ice cream in neighbouring Antiparos.

3. What does the perfect family holiday in Greece look like for you?

Spending days on a small boat, where you can stop anywhere the sea and weather takes you! There are many other wonderful things to do with kids in Greece, including:

Spending time on the beautiful, shallow beaches.
Exploring traditional villages.
Taking short boat trips to nearby islands.
Visiting ancient sites like the Acropolis or Delphi, where history comes to life.
Enjoying outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, and water sports.
Trying local food, from fresh fruit to simple tavern dishes.

4. Your top tip on travelling to Greece with children?

My top tip is to keep the pace relaxed and choose family-friendly bases. Greece is best enjoyed slowly, so staying in one place for a few days at a time makes the trip easier and more enjoyable for kids. Pick accommodation close to shallow beaches, plan activities early in the morning before the heat, and always have snacks, water, and sun protection. Most importantly, embrace the local rhythm—Greek people are incredibly welcoming to families.

5. What are the essentials in your Bleecker & Love tote for a beach day with kids?

I’ve taught my son from early on to be responsible for his essentials, and to carry and organise his own bag as I’ve always worked during summer. In mine: sun lotion and an extra bathing suit along with a jumper for a windy night!

6. What are their favourite dishes on a taverna menu?

Their favorite dishes are usually the simple, classic Greek options: chicken souvlaki, fresh village salad, and homemade fries. They also enjoy cheese pies, tzatziki with bread, and fried zucchinis. A scoop of local ice cream after dinner is always a must.

7. And their favourite local snacks?

Their favorite local snacks are simple, everyday Greek treats like koulouria (sesame bread rings), fresh cheese pies, and spanakopita (spinach pie). They love seasonal fruit from local markets, such as watermelon and peaches in the summer, and they always get excited about loukoumades (fried doughnut balls) or a small scoop of gelato during evening walks.

8. In their own words, what do the kids love about Greece?

The kids love Greece for the beaches, the sunshine, and being able to play outside all day. In their own words, they say things like, ‘I love swimming in the sea every morning,’ ‘The ice cream here tastes the best,’ and ‘I can ride my bike everywhere without cars!’ They also enjoy little adventures, like exploring villages, trying new foods, and seeing donkeys or boats—everything feels fun and exciting to them.

Dec 05, 2025 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Greek Islands with Kids – Our Roundup for 2026

by Lindsay Nov 22, 2025

written by Lindsay

Awash with sapphire seas scalloped by glittering beaches, the allure of the Greek Isles has particular appeal to water-loving adventurers. But it’s a complex scene for the uninitiated. Made even more intimidating with wild tempers, distracted little legs, and picky (but ever-hungry) eaters in tow.

Santorini and Mykonos may be poster children of the Greek isles, but are far from the best options for families. Also popular is Crete, which requires angelic road-trip patience for kids at 12 times the size of Singapore. And while Instagram posts tout hidden gems with spectacular beaches like Lefkada, read the fine print to uncover the possible 300m descent it took to get there.

So, when summer’s family vacation duty calls, where to? Our endless quest for the best islands in Greece has culminated in this year’s roundup. Distilling the most magical escapes that meet that finicky, child-friendly formula of easy swimming, sprawling dining grounds, amenities, and accessibility, they might be the answer to that relaxed family escape you thought you would have before you had kids.

NAXOS

With a continuous 12-mile stretch of shallow, sandy beaches on its western coastline, its hard to compete with Naxos for top spot on a hitlist of family-friendly islands in Greece. But that’s not all – this blessed coastline is considerately dotted with spacious tavernas, low-key beach cafes, and slick boutique stays, offering ultimate convenience and ease for families. Time for more off-beach? Head inland to a different scene of quiet mountain villages. Naxos is full of easy options to pick from. Like a ferry port and airport just a 10-minute drive from the Chora (main village), catering to whether you prefer to ferry or fly in. It doesn’t get more seamless than this.

PAROS

Paros is Naxos’ posh sister without the frenzied pomp of Mykonos, but all its natural beauty. Circled by a gentle coastline carved in with luminous beach coves for calm, crystal-clear swimming, some go further with the offer of dreamy beachhouse equivalents of ski-to-door accommodation. Exuding effortless cool, Paros appeals to the cosmopolitan jet set. Alongside snazzy dining options are simple tavernas for kids in company, curated island shopping, and design-forward artisans. In short, activities aplenty for kids and grown-ups alike.

Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

SIFNOS

Sifnos seduces. With barefoot elegance, surprising beauty in stunning corners, culinary sophistication, and subtle refinement. A tiny island with a powerful personality, it’s the kind of place you want to keep to yourself to maintain its quietly evocative atmosphere. What it lacks is supreme beach beauty in radiant colours so prevalent in the Cyclades. But parents (of small children especially) will be drawn to the convenience and charm of seaside villages like Platis Gialos, waterside tables, and easy island discovery treks. Your only option is to brave the Greek ferry system to get there, but travel during shoulder season and you should be able to avoid most of its discomforts.

SKOPELOS

A departure from the blue and white allure of the Cycladic islands, Skopelos displays a more exotic beauty of pine tree forests that meet turquoise seas typified in the Sporades. In spite of MamaMia!, it maintains an easy way about it that lulls parents into relaxation. Beyond afternoons splashing in stunning seas, spend evenings roaming the Chora, designated a “Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Beauty” by Greek presidential decree in 1978. Classically beautiful, but brimming the eclectic energy of an Asian eatery, island brewery, and cafes that serve matcha lattes fit for Japan. We’re in love with Skopelos.

LIMNOS

Sitting solitarily in the North Aegean straddling Greece’s border with Turkey, landscape and locals alike receive you with the country’s famed hospitality in off grid Limnos. Fom its volcanic past, a diversity of curious landforms beckon exploration. The not-too-demanding kind, across undulating hills that end in shallow shores. On a volcanic dome sits Myrina castle and capital, where an easy ascent through fortress grounds rewards with wild deer encounters. From desert landscapes and salt lakes (sometimes with flamingos) to strange seaside rockscapes, there’s lots to fill a slow-travel itinerary. And while its grey-sand beaches are nothing to rhapsodize about, many are organised, with a hyper-leisurely vibe, and where foreigners are the rarity. Limnos is where you are truly in Greece.

Nov 22, 2025 0 comment

Destinations

Limnos is Pure Greece – A Guide to the North Aegean’s Family Delight

by Lindsay Sep 05, 2025

written by Lindsay

From a seaside sprouting bun-shaped rocks, to a fortress with free-roaming deer, little-known Limnos is filled with child-loving surprises.

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It was about 4pm when we settled under the thick shade of a line of Mulberry trees at Agrokiali. A late lunch even by Mediterranean standards. We were famished. And when our plates arrived, it was like they understood exactly how famished. We haven’t seen these portion sizes in Greece for a long time.

Limnos, as we were going to discover, is like that. Greece before the onslaught of mass tourism. Where a serving for one Greek belly feeds two internationally. Where dessert is gifted after meals as a gesture of welcome generosity towards guests. Where Greek is not spoken over by American, British and Australian-English accents. And where you can still enjoy seaside sunloungers for free, with patronage.

Agios Ioannis, Limnos — *Sunset at Agios Ioannis*.

After holidaying in the heavily-touristed Cyclades, Limnos was a fresh breath of heartfelt hospitality. Like its pillowy hillscape of undulating land, it embraces arrivals with gentleness and generosity. A land largely untamed, but with just enough polish to put family travellers at ease. With fertile lands, a strategic location bridging the East and the Aegean, and safe harbours, its fortunate history of modest prosperity shows up in Neoclassical harbourfront villas, manicured villages, and good infrastructure (for Greece).

WHAT TO DO

Most tourists flock to Greece for the beach. Sandy, shallow and organised (as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas), the sheltered coves scalloping the Limnian shoreline are great for child’s play, Yet, with sand the colour of Mercury (pristine, nonetheless) and better viewed from a drone-shot distance, it wasn’t our highlight.

Salt Lake in Limnos — *From salt flats (pictured here) home to migratory birds including flamingos in winter, to sand dunes, Limnos’ landscape is diverse and impressive.*

There are a bevy of other things to do. If you wanted one place to introduce your children to an impossible ensemble of fascinating geosites, Limnos landed in the fortuitous confluence of it all. Strangely, it also has more playgrounds than we have seen on any other Greek island, all impressive by Greek standards. In addition to well-maintained archaeological sites, sprawling dining venues both atmospheric and child-friendly, and a seaside Chora (main village) with wide pedestrian-only walkways. Throw horse riding into the sea, basket weaving workshops, wind and kite surfing classes – and it’s hard to keep up with the options. Here’s what we packed into 7 days:

— MYRINA HARBOUR & CASTLE —

Spotting poo in our pathways has never been as exciting. For within this Byzantine fortress grounds, a herd of spotted Fallow deer roam. As we made our way through its vast grounds built on a volcanic dome, we spotted one, then a family of three, and finally a gathering of at least 30 grazing deer on the grassy plain near the foot of the citadel. The walk is a continuous ascent over dirt and stone, past a scattering of crumbling fortification walls, arched gates, and underground bunkers. There was little whining on the way, just the desire to keep exploring.

Visit at least an hour before sunset to watch it sink in the direction of the lighthouse. You might also want to fuel up before the walk with coffee and pancakes at Nefeli bar at its foot, overlooking the waterfront.

Shaded shopping walkways in Myrina — *The main shopping street in Myrina is largely shaded for comfortable summer walks.*

— FARAKLOU ROCKS —

I was excited to show the girls the geological marvels of spheriodical weathering and frozen lava flows. But all they could see was a food fantasy of rocks shaped like croissants and chocolate buns. An entertaining food fantasy, nonetheless. After the 3km dirt road ends, a 5-minute walk will bring you to this whimsical place of Sarakiniko-like beauty. Best visited early in the morning or when the sun relents, you can cover the site in 30 minutes.

— THANOS BEACH —

A beach with benefits, the kids were very happy for the inflated water park at Thanos to colour their daily beach trips. Rotating between a thrilling 4-meter high slide, climbing tower, and a bouncy trampoline, it’s the non-stop action you need to reverse the job of an afternoon siesta. For kids 5 years and up, the fee is €8 per hour or €5 for 30 minutes.

— SANCTUARY OF THE KABEIROI —

An archaeological site visit was never going to excite the kids. Thankfully, you correspondingly only pay for adult entry (€5 per person) at Greek archaeological sites. Recently renovated with new facilities (toilets with baby changing tables included), this sanctuary’s cliffside spot is a beautiful and breezy one. There’s also shade to be found under a pergola by a spreading fig tree where kids can sit with a snack bag, while parents appreciate an encounter with 6th century B.C history. Archaeologists at work restoring the lower portion of the slope added interest to our visit. The site closes at 2pm, ruling out evening visits, so head out early instead.

The Sanctuary of Kabeiroi in Limnos — *Dedicated to the Kabeiroi Gods, the sanctuary is one of 3 of the most important ancient settlements in Limnos (Poliochni and Hephaistia are two others)*.

— PLAYGROUNDS —

Playgrounds in Greece are often a scrappy sight, but the ones in Limnos are a cut above. Strategically located are the ones in Moudros harbour (opposite To Kyma taverna where we are happy to dine on repeat) and Myrina’s waterfront.

DINING WITH KIDS

Our introduction to the Limnian dining scene centered around our apartment rental in Agios Ioannis, peppered with a noteworthy variety of seaside restaurants that couldn’t be better in the company of children. Along with options in town and in-the-middle-of-nowhere villages, these were our standout experiences:

— BARBOUNAKI (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Camped under a rock stack on the shores of Agios Ioannis, Barbounaki is the most atmospheric dining spot on Limnos. Basket-weave lampshades and dreamcatchers sway from tamarisk branches with blue wooden boats tucked under, creating little nooks for child’s play in this rustic elegant island dining dream.

Can a place this beautiful have good food to match? Perhaps better. When you think you’re just ordering sardines, a selection of the largest, chubbiest, and juiciest five arrive in star formation on a bed of sliced onions. Meanwhile, the fried calamari was so finely-crisped yet succulent, distinguishing themselves a notch above traditional taverna fare.

— AGROKALIA (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Thoroughly laid back with a zen-inducing view towards the sea, Agrokialia is quintessential, traditional seaside taverna dining. Complete with Greek folk music from the 60s. And keeping with Greek tradition, meats tend to be cooked on the very well done side, so I’d go for seafood. As if to deliberately force you into ease, the service is also languid, but very friendly. A big bonus for families with children? Shaded swings by a small vineyard and heaps of space all around.

— KALOUDITSA (PLATY) —

In the corner of Platy village square opposite a pint-sized playground, Kalouditsa‘s popular appeal is apparent from its lunchtime crowd. Tavernas in Greek squares don’t usually attract in the heat of summer, so its the only place in the square that’s busy. A handwritten menu card of meat-heavy mains (oven-baked pork in orzo, oven-baked beef with mash and caramelised onions, goat with roasted potatoes) is small, but well-executed. …And to finish, a sublime shot of homemade liquor from geranium and cinnamon sealed our lasting impression. Unfortunately, they don’t make enough of this to sell.

— CAVO DEL MAR (MYRINA) —

The spacious waterfront strip is where you want to dine with children in Myrina. And when the kids chant for pizza, Cavo Del Mar treats you to decent Italian with a semi-elegant vibe to match. Any a fussy eater should find their match in a formidably large selection of pizzas, pastas, meats, and even salads.

— REMEZZO (PLAKA) —

Visiting the northern attractions of the island? Remezzo set in the wilderness of Plaka’s outskirts calms with heavy countryside silence. Traditional taverna favourites have a home cooked slant, with gigantes (giant beans), dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves), and beetroot salad on the menu. The kids opted for loukaniko (local sausage) having run out of burgers for the day, alternating with zucchini fries.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many benefits to staying in the port capital of Myrina, including the fortress attraction, the town and its amenities (AB Vassilopoulos, our go-to supermarket on the islands, bakeries, pharmacies and a playground), and a beach a little farther down.

But the seaside tranquility of Agios Ioannis 20 minutes away suited us better, with our favourite dining haunts, a mini mart, and evenings soaked in hypnotic views of the sun sinking behind Mount Athos. A scattering of apartment rentals line the beachfront with easy access to the sea. And in spite of new builds that keep mushrooming, the vibe is still thoroughly laid-back.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Throughout rolling hills of arid bushland and terracotta roofed villages, camouflaged military bunkers are scattered throughout. A solitary mass in the North Aegean seas, Limnos sits on the borders of Greece, facing Turkey in the horizon.

An island airport whisks travellers from Athens to Limnos in 45 minutes, although a 9-hour ferry ride is also possible. Closer are the north mainland ferry ports of Thessaloniki and Kavala, in addition to possible connections with neigbouring islands like Lesvos and Thassos.

Book a car rental as soon as you book your tickets, as providers are limited. Happy Rentals provided us with a brand new drive, and service we couldn’t complain about.

Sep 05, 2025 0 comment

Cyclades Places to Stay

On the Sparkling Seas of Mylopotas (Ios), Sea Sound is Beach House Perfection

by Lindsay Aug 19, 2025

written by Lindsay

When a stunning shoreline lines up with sleep and sustenance just a 3-minute walk away, a little holiday magic happens for families.

SEA SOUND, IOS

2-Bedrooms | From €350 per night

Sea Sound may not be an all-inclusive resort with a kids’ club, but we’d argue it’s a far better arrangement. Rather than being confined to a single complex, you have an entire seaside village on your doorstep: traditional seafood tavernas, excellent modern Greek alternatives, the obligatory pizza stop, sushi rolls, Thai street food, watersports, a well-stocked mini market, and even a dash of stylish shopping —all within an easy stroll.. Better still, the island’s Chora is just a five-minute drive away. While one parent sneaks off for an early morning Pilates class at Maria’s peaceful studio, the other can enjoy a slow start by the sea. By evening, we’d often find ourselves back in the Chora, wandering its chalk-white alleyways beneath cascades of bougainvillea, stopping for crepes, browsing little shops and lingering over dinner long after the children should probably have been in bed.

Behind the humble exterior of a two-storey house on the quieter end of Mylopotas, revamped interiors boast Cycladic-chic within Sea Sound’s second floor hideaway. The 2-bedroom and 2-bathroom unit is a haven of whitewashed serenity embellished with wood, stone, ceramic and straw accents.

THE SPACE

Although the apartment isn’t particularly large, its thoughtful layout and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking nature’s own infinity pool create a wonderful sense of openness. Better still, everything sits on a single level, eliminating the worry of staircases with curious toddlers.

The children’s bedroom is especially well considered. Two single mattresses rest on a gently raised platform, softly illuminated by ambient lighting. Should little sleepers tumble out of bed in the middle of the night—as ours inevitably do—the drop is only about 30 centimetres, offering welcome peace of mind for parents.

The kitchen, too, is equipped for more than the occasional holiday meal, with a toaster, kettle, cooking facilities and a De’Longhi coffee machine for those all-important morning Nespresso fixes. The only thing we found ourselves missing was a dishwasher.

YOUR HOST

And then there’s Marina. Warm, generous and effortlessly accommodating, she’s the sort of host who never makes you feel self-conscious about even the smallest request. A lekani (plastic wash basin) for rinsing swimsuits? No problem. Extra towels? Of course. A Swiffer to tackle the inevitable trail of crumbs left by little travellers? It appeared with a smile.

It’s that kind of instinctive, wholehearted Greek hospitality—where nothing feels like too much trouble—that transforms a lovely stay into a memorable one, and makes travelling with young children immeasurably easier.

Aug 19, 2025 0 comment

Cyclades

The Family-Friendly Sweet Spot on Ios, Greece’s Other Party Island

by Lindsay Jul 23, 2025

written by Lindsay

Is there more to the Cancun of the Cyclades than the bar crawl?

“Where are you headed this summer?” our koumbaros (best man, in Greek) asks.

“Serifos, Ios, and Limnos” we reply.

“Ios?” His face momentarily contorts before dissolving into laughter.

Ios has a reputation. As backpackers began to discover the supremely dreamy beaches of Cycladic islands like Mykonos and Ios in the freewheeling 70s, the islands followed very different paths. Mykonos evolved into a glamorous playground of luxury hotels and champagne-fuelled beach clubs. Ios, meanwhile, became synonymous with exuberant nightlife, earning a reputation for all-night bar crawls and backpacker revelry that drew comparisons with Bangkok’s legendary party scene.

We weren’t here for the parties. We came for its beaches. And a particular seafront hideaway that occupied a rare sweet spot: just 50 meters from a beautiful beach, tucked within walking distance of village cafés, tavernas and everyday conveniences that make travelling with children so much easier. So Ios it was, hoping Homer’s eventual resting place held some respite for harried parents.

Sea Sound Apartment in Ios, Greece — *Our 2-bedroom apartment on Mylopotas beach*.

As we drove off the boat towards our Airbnb, names you don’t usually find on a Greek island flashed by -“Tropicana”, “Fun Pub”, and “Sweet Irish Dream”… Meandering down the hill to Mylopotas, fluorescent lights radiated from the far corner of the beach. And strolling back from dinner to our apartment rental, a group of girls belted out in song as they danced on the balcony. I started to question the wisdom of our island choice.

Thankfully, Mylopotas did not morph into a thumping outdoor club as morning came. In fact, it was pretty chill. Around sunset, sunkissed sirens move steadily from beach to bus stop. Dressed in their scanty, sequinned best, they are on their way to the Chora (main village) where classic Ios bars like Slammer (funny story to its name if you care to look it up) await.

Ios Chora, Greece — *Agora cafe, open for breakfast and drinks with live music nightly*.

While the ritual remains, Ios has evolved from my husband’s blurry memory of a time in his youth when half its Chora smelled of vomit and pee. It’s the first Chora I’ve seen with WC signs and arrows – perhaps that helped. On the rise are swanky hotels (including splashy Calilo) and a sophisticated dining scene. “Authentic” and “enchanting” may not be words I’d use to describe the island, but it’s still got its bounty of natural Greek island beauty, Cycladic blue and white architectural charm, a rich history, and apparently, a very good cheese factory (we were too caught up in languid island rhythm to visit and report on this).

WHERE TO STAY (AND WHAT TO DO)

In spite of its reputation, Ios is largely undeveloped. There’s the Chora, Mylopotas, and Ornos Port. The rest? An expanse of bare rocky mountains dotted with sweet Cycladic churches, and scalloped by a feast of gold sand beaches.

The benefits of staying in Mylopotas are manifold. A five-minute drive from the Chora, I quickly fell into an idyllic routine of mornings at Maria’s pilates studio (alternating days for my husband to windsurf), followed by a latte at Agora cafe opposite. Agora also happens to make the only latte I can drink on the island, without foaming everything as they have a habit of doing in Greece. Rejoining the family at lunch, a buffet of child-pleasing menu options line the seafront: pizzas and paninis (Karma), smashed burgers (Salt), cucumber makis and tempura rolls (Elpeace, with the best view on the strip), or honey-sweet pad thai noodles (Sawadee). All is decent.

Mylopotas Beach, Ios Greece — *Beautiful beach aside, Mylopotas has everything a family might need*.

Then, there’s the standard afternoon swim. You can also pedal boat and kayak on active beach days. As it’s too hot on summer afternoons to be roaming village streets, we head to the Chora for the sweet of the day after dinner. At Koukoutsi, paper-thin, crisped crepes float arrive through blue shuttered windows. With seating nooks built into church walls directly opposite, plop onto a cushion pad as you tuck into your crepes before roaming the village streets. There may not be a toy shop on the island, but there are enough sparkly bracelets and miniature Cycladic souvenir houses on display for the girls and I to have our fill of a shopping spree.

Magganari Beach in Ios — *Magannari’s waters are shallow, still, and spectacular*.

A cluster of beach houses have mushroomed on dreamier Mangannari as an alternative locale to stay. The fine print? A 30-minute drive through mountain wilderness from the Chora, Magganari has just 3 restaurants (they provide sunbeds and umbrellas on the beach for €15-20 per pair) and no amenities in the area. Not even a mini mart. It’s mandatory to visit at least once, however. With four dreamy pools carved into the southern coast, its position escapes waves generated from prevailing meltimi winds that blow over the region. Calm and shallow, you can walk out for more than 50 meters before crystalline waters get waist high. The best part? It was surprisingly quiet on the day of our visit in mid-July, in spite of its reputation.

DINING WITH KIDS

It is no small feat to be able to find satisfying sustenance close to where you will swim and sleep. These were our favourites in and around Mylopotas with complicated company in hand:

— SAINIS (CHORA) —

Space is always tight within Greek village walls. Fortunately, the 2-person tables that line the alleyways at Sainis lead into a spacious indoor kitchen of wood and stone. Black and white photographs from the early 1900s speckle its walls, including images from the 60s when Ios was used as a filming location. The menu goes deeper beyond touristy taverna – delicate cheese-stuffed eggplant rolls, dolmades (wine leaves stuffed with veal and rice) in a velvety egg-lemon sauce, and pork tigania (tender cubes fried with honey and peppers). The highlight for me? Their oven-baked baby pork, also in honey, was so lusciously fatty and sweet it reminded me of Chinese “char siew”.

Sainis Taverna — *Sainis in the thick of the Chora. Head inside for wiggle room.*

Prefer an outdoor venue with space for the kids to run around while you enjoy your meal? Try The Mills, set below the public parking lot under the windmills. You’re likely to have better luck parking here then in the lots beside the main church.

— METHYRA (MYLOPOTAS) —

An inventive take on Greek cuisine, flavour dense dishes arrive in atypical construction. Like their dakos salad – a beautiful assembly of marinated tomatoes mixed with barley rusks and dollops of local cream cheese. Creatively spiced, their food might be a little exotic for children, but they can also fry-up some chicken nuggets if nothing else works.

— SALT (MYLOPOTAS) —

Island-chic Salt has a spread of seating options to choose from: Sofa nooks for laid-back coffees, large stone tables for long lunches, and bar counters for cocktails. The menu is limited, but well-executed mix of refined regional favourites and child-pleasing staples including flat breads and smashed burgers.

— MAGEIRO (TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY FROM THE CHORA) —

The name of a type of eatery in Greece where you will find ready-cooked dishes for takeout or delivery, Mageiro is for when you tire of “restaurant food” and crave a taste of home. Albeit a Greek home. A menu plan for the week is on their website.

— KOUKOU (AGIOS THEODOTIS) —

At family-run Koukou’s, papou (Greek grandfather) sets the rhythm sitting at a table by the entrance, staring far into the distance. Here, the feel is that of Greek island wilderness. A garden at its entrance is in full bloom with tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers that will go from farm-to-fork. The dishes that were good, were very good (a gorgeous moussaka and oven-baked goat). While their yemista (tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice) probably had better days. Combine with a swim at Agios Theodotis.

Koukou Taverna on Agios Theodotis — *Sustenance and swim at Agios Theodotis*

BEST TIME TO VISIT

“September!” the local pilates crew agree emphatically is the best month of the year on Ios. When the seas are still warm enough for swims, and when the island returns to them after main tourist hordes have left. August is the worst, because apart from foreign party-goers to battle with, its the month when local Greeks to have their holidays. Although Ios is not unbearingly busy in general, the shoulder season is always the best months for the Greek islands.

GETTING THERE

A 5-hour high–speed ferry away from Piraeus port in Athens, Ios is a bit of a pain to reach. There is no airport on the island, so locals have to endure the 9-hour slow boat to Athens in winter months. Santorini, Paros, and Naxos, are all near neighbours with airports, and can be combined with Ios for an easy island-hopping itinerary.

FIND FERRIES

Click on your planned date of travel for a view of the ferry schedule to Ios from Pireaus as provided by Ferryhopper:

Jul 23, 2025 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Serifos

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2025

written by Lindsay

Over 70 beaches scallop the dramatic coastline of Serifos, but just a handful are suited for kids. The good? The main draw of dreamy Greek beaches are still accessible, without having to tread through 100 meters of thorny high bushes to reach. Resisting overdevelopment, its coastal gems retain most of their pristine beauty. And while a few beaches offer just the right amount of amenities, you might have to pack a picnic to some. Here’s where to head to with fussy company:

LIVADAKI

The protected port-cove of Livadaki is where you will find the calmest pool-like beach, even on gusty days. But neighbouring Livadakia, with similarly sheltered waters, is more inviting in turquoise crystal clarity. Apart from offering shade, a line of trees with low slung branches serve as a climbing attraction for kids (ours, at least). If you prefer the comfort of padded sunbeds, the camping grounds of Coralli (public parking is right behind) has an earth-toned cafe-bar complete with a pool you can use when you rent sunbeds for €10 a pair (as of 2025). A thoroughly convenient setup for families.

PSILLI AMMOS

A dreamy bay with golden sand and aquamarine waters, Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek) promises a good time for small splashers with shallow waters that stretch out for more than 30 meters. And you will be in the company of many. While it’s not organised, a string of mature Tamarisks line the shore from end to end for you to throw your towel under.

There are two taverans on the beach. Stefanakos (a very good one that packs out early) has private parking and a beach bar with sun-dappled lounge seating you can plant yourself under. They also serve bolognese pasta if that is the only thing your child eats). Manolis is the other taverna that sets-up shop above the beach every summer.

Stefanakos taverna on Psilli Ammos in Serifos, Greece — *Eat in your swims at Stefanakos or Manolis at Psilli Ammos.*

With sand of the grain size that’s perfect for sandcastle building, this is where we spend the longest days at the beach. Its other appeal? On windy days, because of its shallow waters, it works up a gentle succession of waves the kids find classic joy in jumping over.

AGIOS SOSTIS

A double sided beach that takes your breath away when sighted from above, a 100-metre walk down a dirt road from parking at the top will bring you to this picture perfect cove. With its namesake church looking over stunning turquoise waters, the sheltered coastal indent ensures waters that are calm and crystalline. Under this blistering summer sun, the trek back up requires a bit of grit from kids. The hack? Dad can chauffer the car load all the way down to shore and sort out parking up above. The beach is also just a 5-minute drive from the port, so we suggest you take away bougatsas, coffees, and anything else you need. An early huddle of beachgoers start to mushroom under its five Tamarisk trees, so you’ll need to snag these early if thats your plan for shade. Otherwise, bring umbrellas.

GANEMA

Not an obvious pick, Ganema has a few good things going for it: With its southerly position (along with other sheltered coves like Vagia), this is where you want to be when the northern Meltemi winds blow brutally. One kilometer long, it’s also one-part pebbly, and one-part sandy, allowing finicky children to take their pick. Little D doesn’t enjoy sand between her toes, so we headed to the pebbly side where a mini mountain stack of boulders beckons to mount them. The girls cannot resist the rock-scaling fun.

The best thing about Ganema (arguably) is Grandma’s. Walk all the way to the opposing end of the beach from where you park (along the road by its entrance), and you will find a family-run café-taverna with bistro chairs huddled under the generous cover of oversized tamarisks. On our first trip when we rented beachfront accomodation here, most of our mornings were spent with iced chocolates and coffees while the kids built bridges with twigs, and castles with pebbles by their tables. If you’re staying for lunch, their menu is a simple, but well-executed selection of burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and seafood classics.

While pristine, the waters at Ganema (along with the islands other southern beaches) are darker, and get deep relatively quickly. Also because of its sheer length, it’s best visited with older children.

Jul 06, 2025 0 comment

Destinations

Through Grit and Grime in Thessaloniki with Kids

by Lindsay Sep 30, 2024

written by Lindsay

Not quite the prettiest city in Europe, Greece’s second largest city is loved for its charisma, cultural depth, and creative cuisine.

At first sight, Thessaloniki is hardly enchanting. Overlooking the inky seas of the Thermaic Gulf, grimy concrete volumes command the seafront, extending as far back as the eye would like to see.

The waterfront walk is the thing to do on most guides. But as far as beautiful waterfronts go, I wouldn’t describe Thessaloniki’s as delightful. Alongside Nikis Avenue amok with traffic on one length, graffitied benches look into dark, choppy waters on the other. As I wander, grid-wise, into the city’s grey interiors, I find myself picking up the pace. Patchwork pavements, weathered walls, a mélange of balcony awning tentage overhead, and sparse greenery, does little to encourage leisurely family strolls. Instead, we dive quickly from one bolthole of interest to another.

Clearly, I am at odds with locals who fondly refer to it as Greece’s “Bride of the North”, and have yet to appreciate the city’s more-than-skin-deep allure. Once the Byzantine Empire’s second largest city, Thessaloniki’s cultural offering is formidable. Peppered throughout drab apartment blocks are 15 UNESCO Heritage Sites from the Early Christian and Byzantine era, most built after the Great Fire of 1917 that razed through the historic center. A regional seaport for more than 2,000 years, a medley of influences (Byzantine, 482 years of Ottoman rule, Sephardic Jewish, and Balkan) have cooked up a vibrant food scene. Exciting food stops litter the backstreets of the recently christened “UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy”. With a thriving community of artists and designers, and charisma amplified by the raw energy of 200,000 university students, our local friends (who have lived in the US) are adamant – Thessaloniki trumps New York.

Inside the Rotunda of Thessaloniki — *The 4th century rotunda – one of 15 UNESCO heritage sites in the historic center.*

For me, good food is not hard to find in Greece. Along with archaeological sites, cultural immersion opportunities, and spirit. So until I develop a deeper appreciation for Thessaloniki, it’s still a stopover en route to our annual big fat Greek gathering of friends in the paradisiacal waters of Chalkidiki.

From my still-superficial standpoint, here is one version of how to maximise your city trip with kids. Dollops of choux and cream, and an irresistible Danish knick-knack shop is partly my answer.

WHERE TO STAY

Staying centrally, and close to the waterfront is always a good idea. But where along Thessaloniki’s 5-kilometer seaside promenade are the most idyllic bits?

After the Great Fire of 1917 destroyed a third of the city, Aristotelous Square was the centerpiece of French architect Ernest Hébrard’s ambitious new plan for the city. Anchored by the 5-star Electra Palace on one end, staying within close range gives you the benefit of being close to key areas of interest you can walk to: Ladadika dining district a 6-minute walk west, shopping on Tsimski to the east, Ano Poli (the Upper, Old Town) to the north for a glimpse of the city before the fire, and the cafes of the rejuvenated port area on the waterfront.

Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki — *Aristotelous Square – the city’s iconic seafront plaza*.

If you prefer to be close to green open spaces, as families often do, stay close to the 15th century White Tower (also a good place to start a waterfront walk). Once a fortress, then prison, the monument and museum marks the start of the “New Waterfront”. A revitalisation project completed in 2014 transformed the waterfront with wider promenades, pocket parks, playgrounds (if somewhat uninspiring), and striking public art, including a statue of Alexander the Great and the iconic Umbrellas sculpture by George Zongolopoulos. A beloved gathering place for locals and visitors alike, the promenade comes alive with cotton candy vendors and snack carts, while buskers fill the air with music, dance, marionette performances, and more.

DOWNTOWN DINING, SWEETS & TREATS WITH KIDS

Epicurean center Thessaloniki may be, but the conventional wisdom of restaurant guides is mostly out of touch with our dining scene with children. Avoiding tavernas spilling into pavements next to busy streets, and purveyors of deconstructed flavour bombs, where are the child-friendly hangouts we frequent instead?

— LADADIKA DINING DISTRICT —

Ladadika’s recent revival morphed it from a red light district into a bustling dining hotspot. Pedestrian-only after 6:30pm, you can sit outside without worrying about children jumping onto the street. You know it’s a tourist hotspot when beckoning waitresses smile passersby with eager warmth. But there’s such a variety of tavernas, you don’t have to walk far to find something of interest. Some will even entertain with live music – always a welcome distraction with kids with trouble keeping still at tables.

— THE GREEK —

Close to the White Tower is The Greek – our recommended starting (or ending) point for an itinerary including the New Waterfront walk. A down-to-earth eatery that sits in an intersection with tables spilling into a spacious sidewalk, there’s a feeling of space here that escapes most restaurants packed into narrow city streets. Serving a spread of traditional meze favourites (including seafood options), taverna child staples like bifteki (beef burgers) with fries, zucchini fries, calamari, and shrimp pasta are also on the menu.

— CHOUREAL —

Part of this Thessaloniki-born profiterole cafe’s appeal is that children can participate in assembling their sweet fantasy. Baked fresh every hour, thin-crisped choux are whisked off baking trays to receive toppings of cream, ice cream, and other sweet sprinklings.

— FLYING TIGER —

The joy of my children in Flying Tiger variety store rivals that of a visit to a sweet shop, so I thought it deserves a mention. Brimming with quirky gadgets, arts and crafts supplies, and imaginative toys, it is the sort of place where even the most restrained parent may find themselves playing fairy godmother with little resistance.

SURROUNDING SIGHTS

Our stop-overs in Thessaloniki have always been on road trips to Halkidiki for its boundless azure beaches (about an hour’s drive from the city) and impressive family-friendly beach resort draws like Sani. Fossil-rich Petralona Cave where the 700,000 year old skull of an erect homonid 35km out of the city center has recently re-opened. In the company of older kids? Noesis Science and Technology museum may be worth a stop. The archaeological site of Vergina (ancient capital of Macedon) and its Royal Tombs (including that of Alexander the Great’s father, Phillip II) are also an hour outside the city. For a truly unique experience of Greece, majestic Meteora and its monasteries in the sky is a 3-hour drive away.

Sep 30, 2024 0 comment

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