Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.
Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s surprisingly savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Japanese monastery, devotees seek Zen in Xerolithi House – a wave-like sculpture of a building that blends masterfully into the island’s hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected transplant of a laudable contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.
Is Serifos family-friendly? While it might not have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros, it’s certainly not family-unfriendly. There are some “organised” beaches (as they say in Greece), offering umbrellas and sunbeds for families that appreciate these comforts. And while the really special ones are not organised, they boast other child-friendly desirables like tavernas on the beach. You will also find a scattering of covetable seafront hotels and villas that make daily beach trips with little legs a breeze.
Beach frolicking aside, there’s not heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere, and in perfectly-formed Serifos, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children.
WHERE TO STAY
Livadi port might seem like an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with many conveniences (mini markets, boutiques, seafront tavernas and on-trend cafes). In addition, it has the island’s longest beach. But before booking into a property here, look into neighbouring Livadakia. Still within close proximity to Livadi’s amenities, the beach here boasts lovelier waters. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea is calm, clear, shallow, and lined with wispy mounds of tamarisk trees. You’ll also find cafes providing sunbeds and parasol comforts on its golden shores.
A big draw of Greece’s quieter islands for us are the intimate, boutique hideaways sitting directly on impressive arcs of sand. In Serifos, you will find such gems in Vagia and Ganema (where we stayed).
Alternatively, immerse yourselves in arresting views flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset by staying in Chora – Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital. With double-height steps to battle with, a boot full of luggage, and an unreliable walker in hand, this mountain village option will probably look more ideal in a few years.
CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH HIGHLIGHTS
Serifos’ top beaches, of the pearly-white and turquoise variety, rival the best in the Cyclades. They’re also not hard to reach. Here, we list three of the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives.
— PSILLI AMMOS —
A dreamy bay with fine white sand and aquamarine waters, petite Psilli Ammos promises a good time for small splashers. And you will be in the company of many. But it’s not organised, so we armed ourselves with umbrellas and beach chairs, prepared to plant ourselves on the shores for hours as Greeks do.
Two taverns (Stefanakos and Manolis) set-up shop every summer on its shores. We slumped into the balcony of Sefanakos overlooking the Aegean, tucking into a traditional taverna menu of rooster pasta, moussaka, pork tiganites (cubes of fried pork), and perfectly-fried fries. Post-meal, you can whisk away fresh orange juice (and ice-cold vodka tonics) from the restaurant-bar to the beach as often as you like. It’s a convenient set-up for everyone.
— AGIOS IOANNIS —
From Psilli Ammos, a short drive north to the next bay will reveal the similarly impressive waters of Agios Ioannis. And while the beauty of its waters are comparable to its more popular neighbour, it’s vastly less busy. Likely for the lack of taverns or cafes on the beach. There are ten or so skimpy tamarisks to steal shade under if you go early enough. Parking is available close by so you won’t have to carry your picnic basket far.
— GANEMA —
Not an obvious top pick, Ganema has a few great things going for it: With its southerly position (along with other sheltered coves like Vagia), this is where you want to be when the northern Meltemi winds blow brutally. One kilometer long, it’s also one-part pebbly, and one-part sandy, allowing finicky children to take their pick. Little D doesn’t enjoy sand between her toes, so we headed to the pebbly side. This is also the end where a mini mountain stack of boulders call-out for a bit of rock scaling fun. The girls cannot resist.
My favourite thing about Ganema is Grandma’s. A family-run café with bistro chairs huddled under the generous cover of oversized tamarisks. Most of our mornings were spent here with iced chocolates and coffees (or cocktails if you like) while the kids built bridges with twigs and castles with pebbles by the table. If you’re staying for lunch, Grandma’s menu is a simple, but well-executed selection of burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and seafood classics.
The sandy side of Ganema saw slick new restaurant and club SAAN debuting this year. Providing umbrellas and sunbeds for rent on the beach, its bar is far busier than its restaurant, stirring up endless cocktails for thirsty beach loungers.
VILLAGE WALKS
Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both small, with a handful of smart boutiques and some nightlife. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi with its mining history and historical building remnants is probably the more interesting of these.
— LIVADI —
The port village is the liveliest one, and home to a selection of seafood taverns lining the waterfront. Tis Kalis is the taverna on every local’s lips we met. Serving fresh-caught seafood with an artful touch, you can have your Fagri (our fish catch of choice) grilled plain to perfection, or squid ink orzo laced with fushia pink pomegranate. In the company of fussy eaters? Toss the healthier choices aside for a fried seafood basket. We dined in the afternoon when it was less busy, but if you’re going for dinner, make reservations.
If you are of the normal-lunch-hour-going type, take note that most of the taverns in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 2 p.m., if they open at all for lunch), in true Greek tradition. Check opening times before you go.
Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, Blue Bamboo made me blink twice when I spotted it on Google maps. Indeed, it was the real thing from Athens, and the palate refresher I needed after three weeks of Asian food deprivation. Laced with strings of fairy lights, their garden grounds twinkle festively at night. With liberal amounts of space for the kids scamper in between tables, parents here can enjoy some actual time to peacefully dine. Serving traditional Thai favourites with a twist, I was happy to visit more than thrice in our five-day trip if that didn’t seem excessive for my Greek husband.
Also good-to-know in Livadi is Indigo Bakery – nondescript on the outside, but spilling over with a pie and sweet celebration within stylised interiors. It’s the stop we make en route to destination beaches so we stuff our bags with kolouri (sesame-sprinked doughnut-shaped bread) for the afternoon.
— CHORA —
Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving an uphill climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. A veritable feat with strollers, bring your baby carrier instead.
If children need encouragement along the ascent, tell them there’s ice-cream at the top. “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades bolthole worth all its evils. For our 4-year old, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked meat slices stuffed in pita bread along with fries) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos Grill for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.
Climb all the flights of stairs towards the top, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by cafe-bars and taverns with tables spilling out into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious tavernas serving meze-type fare.
All-day Stou Stratou is arguably the most talked about, taking you from breakfast to dinner. Louis is your next best option if you don’t want to join the scuffle for tables at Stou Stratou. Space is tight in the square, and after one night out with the kids, we decided against dining there again with young children.
There’s a public parking lot near the bus station at the entrance of Ano (Upper) Chora. But as space is limited, it’s a good idea to visit early, before the sunset-seeking crowd packs in.
GETTING THERE
There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. But it’s also just a two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens’ Pireaus port. Sitting on the line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with an airport), it takes just 20 minutes to cross over from Sifnos.
WHEN TO VISIT
Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach and he has a flourishing IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.
