Greece has many well-kept secrets. How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions.
Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered.
Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took top priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.
Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens. And within the folds of its four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built by the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with priceless collections. Not just archaeological, but including modern art masterpieces that featured Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup. And of course, there’s food. Local produce takes centre stage with the island’s bounty of agricultural produce. Here, your Greek salad might be topped with a large and luscious dollop of homemade feta whipped from the milk of goats and cows grazing on fertile meadows nearby.
With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was barely enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip:
WHERE TO STAY
While Andros is large, where to stay is relatively straightforward depending on your interests. The coastal stretch from Agios Petros to Batsi is an oasis of family-friendly beach coves with accommodation directly behind. If inland mountain and village adventures has greater appeal for you, the main town (Chora) in the east, is well-placed. And if you’re divided between the two, the lovely seaside village of Batsi is close to the family-friendly beach strip, while shaving off 10 minutes from the 50-minute journey east from Agios Petros. Alternatively, divide your stay and time on both coasts.
— AGIOS PETROS —
On the island’s honeyed western coast, a scattering of apartments nestle behind the clutch of beach shacks on Agios Petros. Conveniently situated, key provisions like a bakery (a very good one), a mid-sized supermarket, even a general supplies store (with a great section of arts and craft supplies for kids), and an excellent pizza parlour make this an attractive, low-key option for families.
— BATSI —
Batsi is enchanting. A harbourside village without the portside-touristy ugliness of many, this delightful cove has an attractive assortment of cafes, tavernas and useful amenities (pharmacies and mini-marts) encircling its bay. There’s also really good ice-cream to be savoured at Yo N Ice after easy splashes at the not-bad resident beach.
— CHORA (MAIN TOWN) —
Where neoclassical mansions tumble down a gentle hillslope onto a narrow spit of land jutting out to sea, cinematic Chora is a beautiful jumble of cafes, tavernas, child-friendly squares, and museums. From Plateía Girokomeíou (the large square by the public carpark near the outdoor cinema), a central stone-paved street leads you to its end, anchored by a commanding bronze statue of the unknown sailor overlooking the remains of a small Venetian castle. Wide, pedestrian-only, and smooth enough for strollers, pit stops for coffee, mezze, and ice-cream give tired little legs a chance for a break. The Museum of Contemporary Art is a highlight, with an impressive line-up of summer programmes for kids and teens that might even be something to plan your dates around. The centre of island life and a cultural hub, Chora is also a convenient base for exploring 4 million year old Foros cave, Pythara waterfalls in Apika, and other villages: aristocratic Lamrya, Menites with its lion-headed fountains, and seaside Korthi.
THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES
Andros’ iconic beaches (like its pinup Tis Grias To Pidima) that intrigue with wild and dramatic beauty are hard to reach on small feet. At the same time, it has no shortage of dreamy swims you don’t have to earn. Accessible, shallow, marvellously blue, tot-friendly splashing grounds scallop the western coastline. You won’t yet find superclubs typical of neighbouring Mykonos and other more developed islands offering sunseeker services and amenities. Instead, chic beach shacks have sprung up to organise the area with sunbeds and parasols. Parking is also located right behind.
— GOLDEN SAND —
With far-reaching shallow waters to embolden any water-weary 2-year old, this is our top choice for the best child-friendly swimming. There’s only one bar to be found on the small arc of soft golden sand, and while its service at the time is nothing to rave about (to put generously), we thoroughly enjoyed its waters.
— AGIOS PETROS —
A lengthy neighbouring stretch of pristine coast, the waters here are similarly pretty. Although sand speckled with bits of rock makes it slightly less comfortable if anyone wanted to roll around the shore. Beach-shack type bars separated by makeshift bamboo dividers give it a hippie-chic allure. Kaliva manages to layer on relaxed elegance with draped curtains, and is where we settle down. Perhaps it’s the friendly service, the sleepy sunset, or very decent tipples, but all is infectiously relaxing.
— KYPRI —
With a main draw being watersports, we weren’t sure if there was much for little D in Kypri. Until a 4-year old boy coaxing a tiny surfboard along the shoreline floated across our sunbed. Inspired, she wanted to do the same. Vasiliki from the professional crew at Wesurfin had a free slot for us. In her special way with kids, she guided D out on a mini windsurf and showed her some basics as they ventured far beyond her usual paddling grounds. Also a restaurant and beach bar, Wesurfin is as serious about their sport as their food (bistro favourites with a luxe spin). Think burgers cooked to medium, juicy perfection with sweet potato fries, pork tenderloin, and reliable pasta options for kids. Alternatively, Flivo next door is a friendly, relaxed, and child-friendly hangout (think changing table for kids and a playground behind) that mixes good vodka tonics.
If you’ve come just for swimming, however, the beach here has a plane of rocky seabed, and slightly murky waters stirred by waves.
OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES
Wind through Andros’ windswept ribbon of streets and an Alice in Wonderland fill of adventures await. If, like us, you revel in countryside encounters for the nature-naive like sheep and goat sightings, picking figs on a gentle hike to a waterfall, or collecting acorns on the walk back from a cave, you will love Andros as much as we did.
— FOROS CAVE —
Would being engulfed by Gaudi-esque sculptures in cold, musty darkness be a nightmarish experience girls? As our uphill walk to the cave grew from 5 to 15 minutes, so did my concern. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be our 4-year-old’s most positively memorable experience that summer.
Lead by Google maps, we parked in a dent on the roadside opposite a sign that read “350 meters on foot to Foros cave”. This didn’t sound too intimidating. But the thing to know is that a lot of that walk is uphill. Part of a hiking route, the stoned-paved path is nonetheless a scenic one. Mostly unshaded, bring hats.
At the top, a lone cave guide awaits with a smile like a pitstop in a bizarre fantasy adventure. She takes groups in one at a time. If others arrive, there’s a waiting area tucked into the hillside, complete with (very clean) toilets and a drinkable water fountain for filling water bottles. To my sweaty post-trek happiness, our guide even whipped out hair nets to place beneath our hard hats as we prepped for the journey. The girls were happy to don their own dinosaur versions, and even happier to be handed torch lights for the descent into darkness.
The steep and narrow path down is tricky if you have children to mind, but we managed with rails to guide us along. And while much of what was said on the tour was beyond her, little D enjoyed the experience enough to enthusiastically want to return.
— PYTHARA WATERFALLS —
Admittedly short of spectacular, I attempted this mainly for the experience of finding some waterfall to explore. The walk is 20 minutes long, but easy. It’s not something I’d suggest if you’re tight on time (especially if you’ve got the cave and chora already in a day’s itinerary, as we did). But if you have an afternoon to spare, little ones will find joy in frog and tadpole hunting, dragonfly spotting, and skipping over water pools from boulder to boulder.
Unintuitively, you park at the sign to Pythara waterfalls that seems to lead to nowhere. It’s located right by a small house where a side alleyway will take you to a tree-lined path that gradually fills with the sounds of water.
— 3MELISSES ORGANIC APIARY —
An apiary tour had been on my mind since we started talking about the pastel-coloured boxes little D spotted in honey-producing Evia. But finding none there, some combination of words in Google search led us to 3Melisses in Andros. While it’s not part of the usual experience they offer, Katerina and Lefteris warmly welcomed us to their off-grid mountainside laboratory. Between bites of cheese, spoonfuls of a spectrum of honey, and playing with Lefki the family dog, we went from observation hive to processing facility, gaining an insightful glimpse into the magic of honey production.
— CHORA —
It’s amazing how a simple square elicits so much pleasure for children. As we walk up to Chora’s largest by the retirement home, the girls take off running. Once you’ve coaxed them out from the crazed circuit, take the stone walkway to the smaller square where cafes line-up offering food and refreshment along the pedestrian-only pathway.
In most Greek island Choras, we wouldn’t suggest strollers or dining in typically tight alleyways with kids. But Andros’ Chora has wide streets uncomplicated by too many stairs. Mod-chic Endochora with fancy cocktails is celebrated for a novel take on local cuisine. Or for a quick crepe stop with tired kids, try Las Strada.
DELICIOUS DINING WITH KIDS
From farmhouse and seaside dining to our vote for the best ice-cream in the Cyclades, these are the gems serving standout food in settings that indulge children equally.
— KOSSIS FARM —
When yiayia (grandma) says papu (grandpa, who stayed behind this trip) would love this meat place, you understand that it is something special. Truly sumptuous, we decimated 500 grams of lamb chops quite easily while the kids devoured their bifteki (burgers without the buns). But Kossis is more than just a seriously good tavern. Ducks, fowl, cows, ponies, and even deer roam its grounds to make this a family attraction as much as a dining destination. And if that’s not joy enough for parents, its large clean toilets come complete with a baby changing table.
— TO STEKI —
Another tavern set in a family-friendly patch of land on the way to Foki beach, To Steki has a large menu of traditionally-loved fare. Although admittedly, the real highlight here is being able to dine with a view of the kids on swings, slides, and in the company of a resident pony.
— MASTELLO —
After one-too-many classic Greek meals, Mastello was a welcome pocket of gastronomic heaven. And while our purist slant initially cast a shade of skepticism on such dishes as a “tarama trilogy” (fish roe spread) presented in three perfect rounds, the creative spin on classic Greek cuisine was faultlessly executed. Don’t miss the Amberjack with celery and leek puree. And the buttery crayfish orzo with exquisite depth of flavour. If you’re with kids, consider reserving the tables on its beachside set-up.
— YO N ICE —
It’s not easy to make gelato that balances guilt-free sugar levels with indulgent pleasure, but Yo N Ice does just that. What’s even better? Having it stuffed in warm Tsoureki (a sweet bread) and spread over with hazelnut praline.
GETTING THERE
While it doesn’t have an airport, the ferry to Andros is a good alternative to air travel. Departing from quieter Rafina port (20 minutes from Athens International Airport), this is a much less chaotic experience than journeys from Pireaus. Because of its proximity to the mainland, the boats travelling there are not the superfast vessels with airline seating, but larger superships with cafe-style seating, a shop, and ample space to roam. If a flexible schedule allows you to choose brands, pick Golden Star over Superjets. Better maintained, cleaner, and more generous with space, it’s always been a better ride for us.
WHEN TO VISIT
As with most Greek islands, the main summer tourist season runs from June to September. After, the island starts emptying out to leave behind a clutch of residents you can count in the thousands. If you’re visiting for other reasons than the beach, Spring (April and May) is a beautiful time on Andros, with verdant valleys of wildflowers colouring landscapes, and herbs that scent the air. Ferries to Andros operate year-round.
