Milos is a showstopper without celebrity status. At once relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.
Last updated: 30 August 2021
Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.
Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, descend the crevice of cliffs to reach semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.
Nine years later, returning with two toddlers, our itinerary has adjusted. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 a pair. Still magnetic, we uncover the family-friendly side of the now insta-famous island sensation this trip.
With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for inspiring curiosity and lessons in volcanology and geology.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. But these are always few and far in between. If you haven’t planned early enough to snag a seafront retreat, we’d start looking at Pollonia, Plaka mountaintop village, and Adamas (the main port) for the next best options in that order.
— ADAMAS —
Adamas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, taverns, a toy store, and cafes run alongside mini-marts and boat tour operators. Centrally located, it’s also a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and boat trips to neighboring island attractions.
Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where the partly organised Papikinou beach starts. This is not the most impressive beach on the island, but it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers natural shade from the blistering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. The much-hyped O’Hamos taverna, with a mini playground, is also in the area.
— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —
The second port after Adamas, petite Pollonia (Pelekouda is its continuation) has more charm than Adamas and is our top choice with a village and beach (with a playground!) within close proximity. Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and posh waterfront taverns draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners out from their luxe villas nearby. Rifaki stood out out for us – the most unpretentious of the lot, and memorably delicious. It’s also next to the beach for little ones to run around and dip feet in between bites. Need a palate refresh? Seaside sushi restaurant Hanabi is a few steps down. Inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and on-trend bao buns, but with a passable presentation that satisfied my need for a dash of soy instead of mounds of more tomato.
— PLAKA —
Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital. A quintessential Cycladic-style village beauty, it’s also a relatively small one. From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), steeply ascending steps make strollers more of a hindrance than a help here.
We found ourselves spending evening walks and morning breakfasts so often in Plaka I’d consider staying here on a next trip. Palaios cafe was a mandatory stop each time. Welcoming with a gelato counter at the entrance, continue into the charming space with cozy wooden accents and a luscious spread of sweets on a main central table, and more cake deliciousness in the glass displays behind.
If you’re staying in Plaka, you don’t have to travel far for a resplendent swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive farther north, with a beach bar-restaurant that will shake-up margaritas as the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.
SPECTACULAR SWIMS
Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores, to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.
— FIRIPLAKA —
Near one of two extinct craters on the island, Firiplaka is backed by a majestic cliff face dusted in orange, red and white. Sandy, shallow, and with transparent, turquoise waters, its limited shoreline is also popular to the point of being uncomfortable during peak times in peak season. Visit early before 10 a.m. or late after 5 p.m. to avoid a crowd. You might otherwise have trouble securing a sunbed and parking on the steep descent leading down on the beach. Loco might be the only shack of a cafe-bar onsite serving up a hot dog and burger type menu to accompany cocktails and coffee, but it’s something.
— PALEOCHORI —
Sharing the grandeur of Firiplaka’s towering cliffs, but with a longer and expansive coastline, is Paleochori – our favourite beach for family swims. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are transparent and full of colour at the same time. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). I even spotted a moray eel slithering around seabed rocks. In the mood for more action? A watersports center renting out kayaks, jet skis and other sea sport equipment sits in the middle of the beach.
— PROVOTAS —
Less spectacular, but still captivating, is Provotas. A small, un-busy bay, crystalline waters gently lap up against a caramel hued, near-flat shoreline with shallow waters for about fifty meters out. Golden Milos, the sole onsite boutique hotel has a café overlooking the sea, furnishes the beach with thickly-padded sunbeds you can rent. This is an especially perfect location for quiet family trips with toddlers who can safely splash around and build sandcastles.
CURIOUS WORLDS & NEW ADVENTURES
Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to the island with its fantastical lunar landscape of wind and wave-whipped pumice. Not a beach proper, but an inlet with a limited sandy shoreline, this is more for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.
With kids, visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. They might even get lucky in a treasure hunt for 2-million-year-old shellfish fossils. Parking is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.
The true marvel of Milos experience is not experienced without a bout tour of Kleftiko – a craggy coastline of cliffs and sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the Thalassitra like proper tourists. An entertaining crew took us from cove to cove while packing in stories and feeding us generously onboard. Enjoyable, it was, but unfortunately also too crowded for my antisocial slant.
Polco Sailing Cruises offers semi-private tours for a budget-friendly alternative to private skippered options starting from €800 a day. With a maximum capacity of ten persons on board their sailing boat or catamaran, infants are welcome if you dare. There’s also the option to rent your own rib boat and cruise the coast yourself. This doesn’t require a license, and prices start from a €150 a day.
If you’re spending many days in Milos, you can also take a day trip to uninhabited Polyaigos, with some of the truly best beaches in the Aegean, and quiet Kimolos with more eccentric volcanic landscapes.
ART & ARCHAEOLOGY
Within the ancient city ruins of Trypiti, a masterpiece of flawless Parian marble landed little Milos a place in art history. The Venus de Milo was stumbled onto by a farmer and a young naval officer in 1820. Armless and footless, it nevertheless went on to mesmerise the world. To view the site where she was discovered, look for the sign on your way to the ancient Roman amphitheater.
The renovated theatre takes you back into the Hellenistic period (323 BC to 31 BC) in your own near-private open air museum. We were the only visitors at the time, soaking in the view of the gorgeous bay as we sat on its 2,000-plus-year-old marble steps. Visit when the sun is low.
Then head to Astakas Klima for seafood by the water, lauded by yiayia and papou (grandma and grandpa) as their best meal on the island. There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to scamper around. And more. Rainbow houses are actually a thing, it turns out. An old-school Greek fisherman’s kind of thing. Take a walk around the bend to discover their colourful summer dwellings (“syrmata”) around the corner that is Kilma village’s claim to fame. Just mind your step on the slippery pier.
PARENT PRACTICALITIES
Milos is the perfect size for family explorations. With its western half inaccessible except by boat, life and habitation focus around the eastern bend of the horseshoe-shaped island. Car travel times typically take no more than 30 minutes between key points of interest, and is the best way for families to discover Greece in my view.
Small enough to save children from punishing road trips, it’s still large enough to offer conveniences like an AB Vassilopoulos supermarket (A large Greek supermarket chain which often stocks organic produce and international brands that smaller mini-marts don’t). Pro-tip: Mouratos bakery opposite AB supermarket is the perfect place to stuff your beach bags with snacks like spanakopita (spinach pie) and kolouri (an oversized, seasame-sprinkled, donut-shaped bread).
WHEN TO VISIT
With Milo’s rising popularity, late Spring (June) and early Autumn (September) are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you will get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun. Daylight hours, however, are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the main tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.
GETTING THERE
You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.
Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus will get you there in three and a half hours. It’s a good way to travel if you are tempted to extend your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring.
