A winter retreat with ski runs named after Greek Goddesses like Leto and Alkimini, Kalavrita is nestled in alpine prettiness just a 2-hour drive from Athens. It also has plenty of family-friendly, off-slope attractions to offer.
Skiing in Greece may raise some eyebrows, but its soaring peaks harbour a clutch of winter wonderlands that are arguably as spectacular as its cult beach draws. If you’ve heard of one, it’s probably Arachova – home of Delphi and also known as the “winter Mykonos”, its apres-ski scene draws a glitzy Athenian following who swig cocktails to chase the cold away. Equally close to Athens is Kalavrita. A cozy mountain village offering child-friendly activities connected with its natural beauty, it’s a good alternative for late planners (as we tend to be) to otherwise overbooked Swiss or French Alps.
Kalavrita has plenty to offer beyond ski. Sitting in a National Park resplendent with geomorphological diversity, a train ride snakes through the vertiginous Vouraikos river gorge and down to coastal Diakofto for a seaside lunch. You can also visit a spectacular cave phenomenon with subterranean cascading lakes. In Planitero village, fish farmers set up taverns by river source waters and grill fresh-caught trout to serve. And of course, there’s the mandatory Greek village square where stone buildings cluster around an Orthodox church.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
It’s always a good idea to stay close to the main village where supermarkets, cafes, tavernas and bakeries gather. In Kalavrita, more ideal perhaps, is slightly higher up in the restorative silence of the mountains where the air is especially crisp, scented with pine, and where valley views leave you feeling a little lighter each morning.
Thanasis’ chalet on the mountainside of Koklos is a 7-minute drive from the main village. Drawn to his light-filled wooden cabin with sweeping views of the village below, it wasn’t just enchanting. It was complete. Down to the fridge prepped with fresh milk, eggs, bread, and other breakfast essentials.
As we settle-in, the kids zip from the basement playroom, onto the verandah and its swing hanging from a beam, then to the kitchen for a snack where they discover a wondrous cornflake dispenser. This was their dream of the ideal Airbnb. In which they even had the company of the pet dog they’ve been begging for with Rhea standing guard outside.
THE MAIN VILLAGE SQUARE
From our chalet in the mountains, we made easy trips in the mornings and evenings to cafes (Utopia for coffee and bougatsa breakfast takeaways), the bakery, and tavernas.
To Spitiko was memorably delicious. Translating to “home” in Greek, in the warm, wooden enfolds of a small mountain tavern, it felt like that. Our meals were a gorgeous balance of traditional with an artful touch of a talented chef to elevate. The highlight for me was oven-baked arni (goat), with melty breaks of flavour-filled fat between the meat. The children finished their rooster in red sauce and pasta with little coaxing. And if you have weaning toddlers in hand, gigantes is a giant bean tomato-based stew that works well for smashing into baby purees. We returned to take away meals for dinner at home the day after.
In the heart of the square, Montana cafe-lounge seemed spacious enough to accommodate fidgety kids. Plunging into leather sofas by the fireplace, we wind-down with walnut pies, crepes and hot chocolate.
ODONTOTOS TRAIN
The Italian-built cog railway might be more than 120 years old, but it’s a modern, compact “Smart”-like train car that takes a slow chug around near vertical cliffs of the Helmos – Voraikos gorge. Following the river down to the Gulf of Corinth, the ride is scenic, but it’s also long. An hour each way, my 3 and 6-year olds were much less captivated by the magnificence of nature before them, and quickly grew bored after the initial excitement of riding a train.
If you make the trip anyways, bring snacks to keep little ones busy. Other key tips: book your ticket online and in advance before you show up at the station. And when you do, keep in mind that it’s not clear from the seat plan that every two rows turn inwards to face each other. Select successive seat rows accordingly if you plan to sit together as a family.
You might also want to travel on a weekend. When we arrived in sleepy Diakofto on a Tuesday at 12:10pm, most of the village restaurants were closed. Quite a plight with little else to do before the return train departs at 3pm. Check ahead to make sure the tavern you plan to visit (we were headed for seafront Kohili) will be open for lunch plans in between. But if you find yourself in the same situation as us, try Kostas grill. More of a meat place, but with a brother who owns the fish monger a few doors down, we had a beautiful kilo of calamari and fried barbounia.
THE SKI CENTER
Rising up to 2,340m at its highest point, Kalavryta ski resort presents enough challenges for experienced skiers with 14 ski runs (including a black run) and 8 lifts. Its facilities are otherwise basic, including the requisite base cafe cum canteen for espresso hits and pies. Ski schools offer lessons for children from 3 years, and a snow fun park keeps little non-skiers busy. Undergoing a series of upgrades, a brand new cable car was installed this year taking groups of 10 up mid-slope.
THE CAVE OF LAKES
In Kastria, an astonishing cave complex 2 kilometers long spread over 3 floors, a subterranean river has carved out remarkable sculptures within its limestone walls. A steel pathway of crossings and bridges take you through fantastical stalactite and stalagmite forms, and over miniature lakes that fill over as the snow melts. It’s an easy walk even for a 3-year old.
Don’t skip over the museum at the entrance (it should really be your first stop). It may look nondescript on the outside, it surprises with modern, interactive displays within. There’s also a guide to take you through the exhibits.
PLANITERO
A 5-minute drive on from the Cave of Lakes, the source of the river Ladonas springs from the lush grounds of sleepy Planitero village. These are the mountain forests of a storybook, where crystal clear waters gush through a series of streams and rivers that sparkle under the soft-focus winter light-dappled shade of walnut, plane and oak trees.
Two taverns operate their own fish farms around these springs, raising river trout, salmon and sturgeon that will jump from farm to your fork. Fish Farm is situated in manicured garden grounds that are also home to an unexpected population of swans and other domesticated fowl – a diversity of play pals for little kids in tow. Rustic Planitero has a larger menu and an even more impressive number of ways to prepare your fish, from baking it in cognac-filled parchment, or roasting it with almonds.
WHEN TO VISIT
The village gets decked out for Christmas from 13 December, only after the holocaust of 1943 on 13 December when the male village population was exterminated by the German army, save for some escapees. But December might be a little early for snow if you plan to ski. Ski season properly runs from January or February, and is when the village is busiest.
