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While we used to stay in island village centres and bus to beaches in our younger days, it’s hard to do that with family now. Especially with all our gear (ours often include beach umbrellas and chairs) in tow. Public transport is not well established on most islands (there are exceptions of course, like Naxos), and a bounty of secret beach coves, off-grid tavernas, and unsung archaeological sites beckon off-route exploration.
Whether you’re going on a road trip or navigating a small island, these are the main things to know about driving in Greece:
1. An overview: driving in central Athens, on motorways, and in small towns and island villages
In and around Athens
Driving through the inner-city of Athens is chaotic. A tangle of already narrow street arteries clog up with cars parked half-on, and half-off the pavement. I wouldn’t rent a car just for driving around in Athens. The metro and taxis will serve you well enough.
But if you did, and must find parking in the city, Park Around will help you locate private parking garages to take the stress out of hunting for a street-side spot. If you spot something on the street, it needs to be a white lot designated with the P69 sign. Parking here is available for a maximum of three hours (€0.90 to €1.80 per hour) between 9am and 9pm on weekdays and 9 am to 4 pm on Saturdays. Parking is free on Sundays. Purchase a scratch card from a street side kiosk (or “periptero” that also sells sweets, refreshment, and what not) to make payment. You can also use the MyAthensPass app for payment if you don’t mind downloading another app.
While your car rental may be exempted from this (check ahead), good to know is Daktylios (Greek for “ring”) – a traffic restriction system in central Athens designed to reduce congestion and pollution. Private vehicles are restricted from entering a designated central zone based on the last digit of their license plate—odd-numbered plates on odd days, even on even days.
On motorways
Greece’s motorways have undergone extensive upgrades and provide a smooth journey on long road trips. Also furnished with a series rest stops for fast food, coffee, and clean toilet breaks, the only thing to reckon with are Greek drivers (see point 5 below).
In small villages and islands
Driving through small towns and islands challenge with narrow (two-lane roads are often mistaken for one-lane roads), pot-hole ridden streets. But is still do-able enough for me not to mind taking the wheel. There are no traffic lights on most islands, so watch for STOP signs. Keep in mind that Google maps sometimes mistake small dirt paths for roads – we’ve had to reverse out of some impossible alleyways to get back to the main road. Go painfully slowly on mountainside roads that twist sharply around vertiginous cliff faces with no barriers to falling off. Parking is usually free on side streets, beaches and attractions.
2. Motorway tolls
When approaching the toll booth, there are 2, sometimes 3 lane types to watch for: one with an attendant (the blue sign with the guy in a hat), the electronic pass lane (If you’re in a rented car, you’re probably not signed up for this – an automatic electronic debiting system tied to a local bank debit card), and one with an automatic machine to throw in coins and bank notes into. Head for the lane with an attendant when in doubt. They should accept cash and credit cards, but we always have small notes and coins in hand for the lanes with automatic machines. Toll fee prices range from €2 to €20.
3. Rest stops along motorways
Don’t worry about packing food for the road. Modern rest stops offer a selection of fast food options like Goodies burger (a league above McDonald’s, I promise), Flocafe (for coffees and snacks), Everest (for salads and sandwiches), and Gregory’s (for pastries savoury and sweet). A small gift shop is also usually on site to reward little ones for good car seat behavior. I’ve never had a highway public restroom nightmare, but I usually bring a portable potty for the kids in case.
4. Navigating
Google Maps works well for us for the most part. Get a local SIM card with unlimited data (attractive plans are often on offer in summer from Cosmote) or an eSIM to stay connected. We also bring a dashboard phone mount for easy viewing. Just remember that small dirt paths (encountered frequently on islands) can confuse Google Maps. When Google tells you to turn into one that doesn’t seem at all road-like, reconsider and stay on the main road instead.
MapsMe does not need an internet connection. You can download destination maps as a backup for when you’re out of wifi.
Signs are often in Greek and English, except if you’re in a small town or village.
5. Greek drivers
I’m not sure if I can put Greek drivers into any special category so as to be generally afraid of, but I’ve seen some pretty outrageous behaviour on the road. Like the time someone accelerated to overtake us just 50 meters before a series of cones stood to split the two-way street. Inflaming my Greek husband, he sped up. The angered driver attempted overtaking us again, this time running through the said cones to achieve his original intention, and permanently damaging road infrastructure.
Always drive defensively. Expect unpredictable behaviour. Be attentive.
6. Road rules
Greeks drive on the right. Of course, everyone should be in seat belts, kids in car seats, and no one under 10 in the front. Drivers should not use mobile phones, or drink and drive.
A few more rules to be aware of:
- Speed limits: Generally this is 50 km/h in the city, and 90 to 130 km/h outside. Check the traffic signs.
- At an intersection with no STOP sign, cars on the right have the right of way.
- Roundabouts – a little unintuitive, but cars entering have the right of way.
- Don’t park within 3 metres of a fire hydrant, 5 metres of an intersection, or 15 metres of a bus stop.
7. Renting a car
Manual transmission is usually the default option car rental agencies provide. If you prefer an automatic, make sure you specify this (usually more expensive).
The minimum age for renting a car in Greece is typically 21 years old. This varies from company to company. They also usually require 1 year of driving experience.
8. Your license
EU-issued licences and licences from countries that are party to the Vienna convention are valid in Greece.
As of November 5, 2021, driving licenses issued by Australia, Canada, Gibraltar, the United Kingdom, and the United States of America are also recognized in Greece.
Otherwise, an international driving license must be accompanied by your current national driving license.
9. Gas stations
Gas stations in Greece are manned by an attendant. In small villages they might close at 7 pm, in larger towns and off highways at 9 pm or 10 pm. Some are 24 hours. At least one gas station must remain open in each area at night and on Sundays by law. Ask a local to point you in the right direction. Credit cards are mostly accepted, but don’t be surprised if the odd station in outlying areas asks for cash.
10. Useful contacts while you are on the road:
Medical Emergency Service (EKAV) – 166 – the national ambulance service
Roadside Assistance – call your car rental agency first. Alternatively, call ELPA at 104 for emergency breakdown services.
Hellenic Police (ELAS) – 100
Hellenic Fire Service – 199 – if you spot a forest wildfire, urban fire, or for rescue operations in accidents and natural disasters.
Lastly,
Lookout (on Google Maps) for archaeological sites to check out along the way. Greece is peppered with exciting stops where you can touch ancient history in relative solitude as you cruise these lands of many legends.
