On an island notorious for parties, crowds, and rambunctious extravagance, where can you go to find a family-friendly share of its sparkling blue seas (and not have to splash obscene amounts of money)?
Confused by drunkenly divergent reviews of what’s best in Mykonos, we went from coast-to-coast to find seaside sanctuaries that are as relaxed as is Mykonianly possible. And coast-to-coast here involves convoluted loops inland, then back out onto a bit of shore that could be just next door.
To save you from a similar hassle, we’ve listed our top picks in rank order. We’ve also included why some other beaches you might read about didn’t appeal to us, in case your stylistic preferences resonate with ours.
KALO LIVADI
On the island’s overcrowded southern fringe, Kalo Livadi is a literal breath of fresh air. There’s even a sweep of sunbed-free space on the right as you face the sea. For now, visitors can enjoy its turquoise waters and soft white sand in relative serenity. Wade in and the water gradually drops to (adult) waist-height after about 50 meters. Not the shallowest, but still good for child’s play.
Two beach clubs have secured covetable real estate on its shores. Unlike its namesake, nautical-themed Lohan is laid-back. Socially distant beds surround an airy canopy of sails covering the central bar. There’s easy electronica in the background, and along with whitewashed furnishings, all is soothing. The sunbeds at Lohan cost €30 a pair (cheap on Mykonos, although prices on the island seem to fluctuate with the wind). Ample free parking is located directly behind.
ELIA
Elia is perhaps more striking than Kalo Livadi, but also with more admirers. The good – one of the island’s longest beaches, you don’t feel the crowd as much as on smaller bays like the Paradise, Paraga or Ornos. A smattering of ultra-luxe hotels provide beachfront accommodation. Elegant constructions dressed in muted hues, these low-slung volumes discreetly blend into their surroundings.
Like other natural beauties before it, a recent remodel has fitted Elia with loungers from end-to-end (Book one here). There’s still some slivers of free space in between assembly blocks of sunbeds. With faint music in the background, the ambience here is easy. Sunbeds cost €50 per pair.
Before you get excited about the hidden section past the rocky headland at the edge of the carpark, it’s useful to know that this is also nudist territory.
PARADISE
Why have we included this beach with a party-hard reputation in our list? Tropicana, a club without the notorious island attitude, is actually pretty laid-back before 4 p.m.. It’s also without the pole dancers of neighbouring Super Paradise. The crowd, less determined to make a scene, is still more self-conscious than is relaxing. Selfie-taking borders on obsessive, and the occasional young siren bares her chest for a photo op with the club photographer.
Sandbags and sun loungers fill the shore, so we focus our gaze on the stunning aquamarine waters beyond. The seabed has sections of reef for feet to watch out for, which is also home to an array of marine life – bring snorkeling equipment. Sunbeds cost €35 a pair and there’s a €10 minimum spend. Parking was free as well.
AGRARI
Quieter Agrari perhaps deserves third spot over fourth with an expanse of free beach to tumble around. At its center is tranquil Agrari restaurant-bar-cafe. Wood patio-style furniture spread out under the leafy green canopy of a little forest of tamarisks.
So what’s not to love at Agrari? With mustard-yellow sand, it’s waters were just not quite the shade of piercing blue we idealise. It also has a reefier seabed. But if natural, raw and free, with some organisation (loungers, food and drink) is your priority, this is it. Free parking is located directly behind.
AGIOS SOSTIS
One of the last few beaches on Mykonos that has escaped development, northern Agios Sostis is for throwing your towels down to relish on beaches unblemished. The difference in atmosphere here is distinct – rugged and real, with a dark and wild appeal. Resident taverna KiKi’s, a local cult favourite known for mouthwatering grills, has also remained largely unchanged since the 80s. Small and nondescript, expect a one to two hour wait for a meal here. Parking is a bit of a challenge on the narrow strip of road leading down to the beach, but we’ve always managed without too much difficulty. There are no facilities here, so bring water and everything you need for a day on the beach.
AND THE OTHER BEACHES WE VISITED?
The waters of Shirley Valentine’s Agios Ioannis were not as dreamy as we envisioned (Agrari would have been a better option), with lots of rocks in the seabed. Paraga was exorbitant, although by the time we got there, we were tired of travelling and ready to spend. Prepared to splurge, we headed to Scorpios. But without a booking, nothing was available. Ornos was so crowded with people on the shore and boats out at sea, I could have been on the east coast of Singapore. And Platis Gialos felt too built-up with squeezed-together hotel blocks marring the shorefront.
Still confused? Approach family travel specialists in Greece, Mamakita. We wish we did before we attempted the island ourselves.
