Could a hilltop hideaway be better than a beachfront retreat on a family trip to a Greek island?
VILLA DE VIENTO
$$$ | ꆜꆜ ꆜꆜ
Quite possibly. Especially if the kids have outgrown their toddler years. And particularly in Milos, where an eccentric coastline of rockscapes has limited beach hotels and villas from sprouting up on every seaside parcel of land.
Looking out into haunting sea views, with the stately church steeples of Agios Nikolaos afloat in a corner, if I’ve ever seen a semblance of heaven on earth, this might be it. Villa de Viento’s solitary hilltop position is an enviable one. Combined with the allure of ancient treasures (a Hellenistic period theatre, catacombs, and the founding site of the Venus of Milos) tucked into Trypiti’s slopes, there is a mystic enchantment in the beauty of these grounds.
The Place
Set in an olive grove fringed by a string of traditional windmills on its edge, the two-bedroom open-plan villa is spacious, bright, and spotless. So clean, I freely enjoy walking around bare-footed as is our Asian custom at home. From cozy interiors filled with the warm touches of a traditional Greek home – wooden cupboards painted with floral motifs, a country-style kitchen, an antiquated sewing machine-turned-table, a piano – French windows open out into a panorama of arresting vistas.
Service and Amenities
Nikos and Katerina have considered every need in equipping the property. From cooking implements, next-day breakfast essentials, a Nespresso machine, orange juicer, beach toys, extra linen…all is as complete as guided by Greek hospitality. Not the tourist-savvy kind of trained hospitality, but heartfelt acts of care that are spontaneous, surprising, and an impetus to returning.
One afternoon, while the girls chase cats outside as they do for hours, Katerina invites them to join her making cheese pies. D is thrilled, but little A isn’t as keen, so Nikos takes her for a walk in the garden. Another evening, we find the best kind of surprise in our fridge after a long day out – homemade Sokolatopita (a Greek “chocolate pie”, but actually a cake). A knock-out version of the divine local dessert surprisingly few foreigners are acquainted with. And before we leave, Nikos gives the girls a precious sack of “eye of Naxos” shells. They leave longing to return to this special abode of treasures and loving warmth.
There is no cot available on the property. With a short bout of internal stairs taking you from living room to raised sleeping quarters, the villa is better suited for children of more than 3 years of age.
The Neighbourhood
While this mountain village experience departs from my usual preference for a beachfront retreat, tranquil Trypiti has heaps going for it. It may not be teeming with village life, but steps from the villa is a selection of key family conveniences: A coffee stop, a pizza and pasta essential for picky eaters, and the newly opened OKTO for an indulgent night out. Farther down where the slope meets the sea, Astakas Kilma is our favourite restaurant on the island for family dining. And a 5-minute drive away is Plaka. The only traditional village of significant size, here you can experience that idyllic Greek island dream of wandering through a tangle of blue and white village alleyways to shop, wine and dine late into the Mediterranean night.
Sleeps: Four. Two bedrooms have double beds in each (although one of the double beds is slightly smaller than the standard).
Spend: From about €350 per night in summer.
