An emerald isle washed in sapphire seas, a combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.
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On clear days, the gentle silhouette of Skiathos emerges on the horizon as we linger over coffee at Kimasi Beach in our home village of Mandoudi, North Evia. Part of the Sporadic island complex formed by rocks thrown in a clash of the mythic giant brothers Otos and Efialtes, the island continues the lush, pine-cloaked greenery of North Evia. Alive with birdsong and butterflies that drift among forested hills descending into pristine waters in golden coves, it is a world apart from the familiar Cycladic image of Greece—a landscape of bare rock, whitewashed villages and cobalt seas that has come to define the country’s postcard identity.
What Skiathos possesses that Evia does not are dreamy, honey-hued beaches of astonishing clarity. Since the opening of a new ferry port in Mandoudi (a 2-hour road trip from Athens), Skiathos is now just a 40-minute crossing on a spiffy Seajets fast-ferry. Skiathos is also the Sporades‘ most connected island, served by an international airport famed for its unusually short runway on a narrow isthmus, where aircraft enthusiasts gather to watch planes skim thrillingly overhead during take-off and landing.
Beyond its cinematic landscapes made famous by Mamma Mia!, Skiathos proves itself remarkably family-friendly. While pockets of the island buzz with summer energy, its overall pace remains relatively relaxed. Days revolve around calm, gently shelving beaches and leisurely tavernas, punctuated by memorable adventures—from horse rides through pine forests and into the sea, to easy boat excursions, whether a quick private hop across to Tsougria or a day of fishing on the Aegean. It is this rare combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.
WHERE TO STAY
For families and first-time visitors, the southwest coast is the island’s sweet spot with our favourite swims. Here, a string of sandy beach bays—from Vasilias and Achladies to Agia Paraskevi, Troulos and Koukounaries—is connected by the island’s main coastal road, striking a balance between relaxed beach life and easy access to town.
Since the opening of its international airport in 1972—and the global spotlight cast by Mamma Mia! in 2008—Skiathos has evolved into one of Greece’s best-equipped island destinations. Yet development has remained refreshingly restrained, with low-rise buildings nestled into the island’s verdant hillsides.
Families are spoiled for choice with an assortment of sophisticated beachfront resorts. We stayed at Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas, where contemporary interiors blend with traditional Greek architecture just steps from Vromolimnos Beach. At the luxury end of the spectrum, ELIVI has transformed the historic Xenia Hotel into the island’s flagship seaside resort, occupying a coveted outcrop of the Koukounaries peninsula.
Unless your accommodation includes parking, we’d avoid staying in Skiathos Town if you have a car. Parking is severely limited during the summer months, and navigating the maze of narrow streets can quickly become frustrating. While the Old Town is a delight to explore on foot, its steep, stone-paved alleyways can be difficult for families with prams or grandparents.
IN AND AROUND TOWN
As with most Greek island Choras, the greatest charm lies within the steep labyrinth of Old Town, where narrow stone alleyways wind their way up and down between whitewashed houses. Teetering on over touristy, British pub-style boltholes and the bubble-gum facades of mass-market ice-cream parlours have sprouted in village corners, alongside a polished mix of massage studios and elegant boutiques (Kalokairi stocks some of our favourite Greek designers, including Greek Archaic Kori).
Along the main shopping street, Papadiamantis Street, seek out Alaska for homemade gelato, including local flavours such as baklava. Just opposite, Il Posto serves excellent coffee and relaxed breakfasts with an atmosphere that feels almost Parisian.
FROM COFFEE TO DINNER
Seeking out spaces where the pace is a little less hurried (e.g. the fringe of Old and New Town), these are the spots we enjoyed meals out with kids between souvlaki wraps and a quick pasta toss-up in our apartment kitchen rental.
— Bakaliko (Skiathos Town – Eastern Waterfront) —
Seafood shines at the waterfront restaurant strip at the opposite end of Skaithos Town – where children scoot along the traffic-free promenade while parents amble with prams towards the heart of town. Our first choice, Agrokiali, came recommended by our hotel, but the queue persuaded us instead to claim a prime table beside the water at Bakaliko, where calming sage-green and cream interiors overlook the harbour.
Aside from the classics (grilled sardines and fried thrapsalo), the menu celebrates the kind of homespun dishes my mother-in-law would prepare—octopus braised in red wine, cuttlefish with spinach, fish soup, and other Greek classics. Simple, deeply comforting and quietly memorable.
— Bourtzi (Old Port, Opposite Old Town) —
Perched on the small peninsula fortified by the Venetians in the early 13th century, an expansive café nestles beneath a dense canopy of pines interwoven with sail shades, its terraces opening onto sweeping views in every direction. It’s a perfect place to begin a morning exploring the Old Town, before the sun gathers strength. Antsy children have plenty of space to roam among the trees and old stone walls, while chilled yoghurt smoothies provide refreshment before setting off again.
— O Batis (Old Town) —
Not quite the island’s finest example of traditional taverna cooking, but the setting more than compensates. Squeezed among the tiered restaurants climbing the hillside above the Old Port, the terrace looks out over the sea through the branches of a magnificent oak tree that has improbably taken root on the slope. Secure a table along the edge of one of the loveliest places in the area to linger over a leisurely Moussaka.
— Big Bad Wolf (Koukounaries) —
Drawn by the relaxing calm of a patio of oak and olive trees, we settled after our koukounaries swim in Big Bad Wolf. Its namesake inspired a carnivorous meal choice of succulent pork tenderloin with velvety pumpkin puree (our menu favourite), lamb chops and more potato puree, and grilled chicken with mushrooms. Parking is available behind by the gated narrow dirt path.
— O Tarsanas (Kechries – Best Reached by 4WD or Boat) —
As we cautiously negotiated the steep, one-kilometre dirt track leading to the taverna, we couldn’t help wondering why neither our hosts nor the reviews we’d skimmed had mentioned the very real possibility of our two-wheel-drive becoming stranded. Sensing our apprehension on the return journey, owner-chef Argyris smiled reassuringly. “Don’t worry,” he said. “If you get stuck, I have three trucks. We’ll pull you back up.”
Fortunately, the moment we arrived, the anxiety of the descent melted away. Between landscaped lawns drizzled over with sunbeds, olive trees and the thick shade of mulberry, the taverna occupies a secluded outcrop of the island’s wilder northern coastline. Here, Argyris has transformed his grandfather’s estate into a hidden seaside haven where the food more than lives up to the setting. The menu is concise, and shaped largely by the day’s catch from local fishing boats, but every dish is executed with refinement and a delicately balanced richness of flavour that lingers long after the meal has ended.
WHEN TO VISIT
Skiathos is at its liveliest during July and August, when every taverna, beach bar and boat excursion is in full swing. We find ourselves visiting then only because our children’s school holidays leave little choice. Families seeking a little more breathing room may prefer June or September. The weather remains warm for swimming, yet the beaches are noticeably quieter, parking becomes less of a competitive sport, and you’ll enjoy a more relaxed pace across the island.
GETTING THERE
One of the easiest Greek islands to reach, Skiathos is served by direct summer flights from numerous European cities, while year-round domestic flights connect via Athens. If you’re already exploring mainland Greece, ferries operate from Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Mantoudi in northern Evia.
FIND A FERRY FROM MANDOUDI
Click on your planned date of travel for a view of the ferry schedule to Skiathos from Mandoudi as provided by Ferryhopper: