Every country has its peculiarities. If you’re travelling with children, kids are already full of surprises – you don’t need more from your vacation rental to trip-up travel plans. What are the less obvious things to look out for so you don’t get caught off-guard in Greece?

An “air conditioned holiday home” without air conditioning in bedrooms

When my husband said there was air conditioning in his parent’s home in Evia, I was a little surprised to discover that meant one air conditioning unit in the hallway to cool all three bedrooms in the apartment. So everyone sleeps with the doors open at night.

Most Greeks are not big on air conditioning, quick to cite its health-inducing hazards from stiff necks to sore backs. And while summer nights are usually cool enough in Greece to sleep with the windows open, who’s ready to wake with the sun on a holiday? If you anticipate the need for air conditioning, check to ensure all the spaces you require them in have their own unit.

Cycladic villas with one-too-many child-unfriendly features 

Cycladic houses (an architectural style unique to the Cycladic island group in Greece) have a special beauty for me. Shaped by necessity,  cubic shapes and minimal lines used little resources in spartan conditions of the time, while an all-white façade is heat reflective in the blistering summer sun. 

Children, however, are clearly not a design priority here. Staircases often have no railings, while balconies feature low slung rails with child-sized gaps in between. There’s also concrete everywhere – built-in sofas made of concrete, concrete bedside tables, concrete wardrobes, concrete walls for shower cubicles, concrete floors…it’s all just a little harder on falls than wood and other softer material alternatives. 

Floor plans with odd layouts, particularly with multi-level units

Many Airbnbs in Greece are designed for the sole purpose of serving as a holiday home to rent. As a result, some have unusual layouts that are not quite ideal for long-term living. A recent beach house in Paros had the third bedroom connected to other areas by an external staircase – quite beyond the point of booking a three-bedroom apartment for the family. And if you need to be next door to sleeping infants and toddlers, check to make sure you have two bedrooms situated on the same level.

Bedrooms in basements (unless you like bedrooms in basements)

I’ve often booked a three-bedroom villa for a tidy sum, only to find myself descending into not-so-idyllic basement level rooms on the arrival house tour. Not the end of the world, but something I try to avoid. Particularly since, ambience aside, basements tend to get musky and attract dirt when windows open up into the ground level. Look closely at the window placement of bedrooms in featured photos to avoid a similar disappointment. If they are placed in a strangely high position, this is likely to be a basement-level room.

Why does this happen in Greece? “Agricultural” land plots (also allowed to accommodate commercial facilities like hotels) allow for a maximum allocation of built-up area, in addition to a maximum of two floors. Clever developers try to maximise this allocation by converting basements into room space, inserting small windows at the top to make them less jail-like. Others do a more impressive job by digging extensively around the entire house to create a sunken area. They might even manage to put in full doors and full windows here, but these are essentially basement-level rooms.

Accommodation in the thick of busy Choras (town centers) if you’ve got a rental car to park

Staying in the Chora might sound like a great idea for convenience, but the Choras of popular islands (e.g. Corfu, Chania in Crete) often have their parking challenges. Circling the area in search for parking space for 20 minutes to an hour before finding a lot is not unheard of. And having to do that each time you return from a day’s outing with a baby in the car can easily ruin a fun day out.

Any actions you undertake based on the information provided in this website is at your own risk. Please read disclaimer before proceeding.

While we used to stay in island village centres and bus to beaches in our younger days, it’s hard to do that with family now. Especially with all our gear (ours often include beach umbrellas and chairs) in tow. Public transport is also not always well established on islands, and there are often too many secret coves, off-grid tavernas and far-flung archaeological sites to explore.

Whether you’re going on a road trip or navigating a small island, these are the main things to know about driving in Greece:

1. An overview: driving in central Athens, on motorways, and in small towns and island villages 

Driving through the inner-city of Athens is chaotic. A tangle of already narrow street arteries clog up with cars parked half-on, and half-off the pavement. I wouldn’t rent a car just for driving around in Athens. The metro and taxis will serve you well enough. But if you did and must find parking in the city, Park Around will help you locate private parking facilities to take the stress out of the hunt for a street-side spot. If you spot something on the street, remember it needs to be a white lot designated with the P69 sign. Parking here is available for a maximum of three hours between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. on weekdays and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays. Purchase a scratch card from a street side kiosk (the many “peripteros” selling sweets, refreshment, and what not) to make payment. You can also use the MyAthensPass app for payments if you don’t mind downloading yet another app.

Greece’s motorways have undergone extensive upgrades and provide a smooth journey on long road trips. Also furnished with a series rest stops for fast food, coffee, and clean toilet breaks, the only thing to reckon with are Greek drivers (see point 5 below).

Driving through small towns and islands challenge with narrow (two-lane roads are often mistaken for one lane roads) and pot-hole ridden streets. But is still do-able enough for me not to mind taking the wheel. There are no traffic lights on most islands, so watch out for STOP signs. Keep in mind that Google maps sometimes mistake small dirt paths for roads – we’ve had to reverse out of some to get back to the main road. Go painfully slowly on mountainside roads that  twist sharply around vertiginous cliff faces with no barriers to falling off. Parking is usually free on side streets, beaches and attractions. 

2. Motorway tolls

When approaching the toll booth, there are 2, sometimes 3 lane types to watch for: one with an attendant (the blue sign with the guy in a hat), the electronic pass lane (If you’re in a rented car, you’re probably not signed up for this – an automatic electronic debiting system tied to a local bank debit card), and one with an automatic machine to throw in coins and bank notes into. Head for the lane with an attendant when in doubt. They should accept cash and credit cards, but we always have small notes and coins in hand for the lanes with the automatic machines. Toll fee prices range from €2 to €20. 

3. Rest stops along motorways

Don’t worry about packing food for the road. Modern rest stops offer a selection of fast food options like Goodies burger, Flocafe (for coffees and snacks), Everest (for salads and sandwiches), and Gregory’s (for pastries savoury and sweet). There’s likely to also be a small gift shop to reward little ones for good car seat behavior. I’ve never had a highway public restroom nightmare, but I usually bring a portable potty for the kids for an easy pit stop.

4. Navigating 

Google Maps works well for us for the most part. Set up Google Fi before you arrive or get a local SIM card with unlimited data (attractive plans are often on offer in the summer from Cosmote) to stay connected. We also bring a dashboard phone mount for easy viewing. Just remember that small dirt paths (encountered frequently on islands) can confuse Google Maps. When Google tells you to turn into one that doesn’t seem at all road-like, reconsider and stay on the main road instead.

MapsMe does not need an internet connection. You can download destination maps as a backup for when you’re out of wifi.

Signs are often in Greek and English, except if you’re in a small town or village.

5. Greek drivers 

I’m not sure if I can put Greek drivers into any special category so as to be generally afraid of, but I’ve seen some pretty outrageous behaviour on the road. Like the time someone accelerated to overtake us just 50 meters before a series of cones stood to split the two-way street. Inflaming my Greek husband, he sped up. The angered driver attempted overtaking again, this time running through the said cones to achieve his original intention, and permanently damaging road infrastructure. 

Always drive defensively. Expect unpredictable behaviour. Be attentive.

6. Rules 

Greeks drive on the right. Of course, everyone should be in seat belts, kids in car seats, and no one under 10 in the front. Drivers should not use mobile phones, or drink and drive. 

A few more rules to be aware of:

• Speed limits: Generally this is 50 km/h in the city, and 90 to 130 km/h outside. Check the traffic signs.  
• At an intersection with no STOP sign, cars on the right have the right of way. 
• Roundabouts – a little unintuitive, but cars entering have the right of way. 
• Don’t park within 3 metres of a fire hydrant, 5 metres of an intersection, or 15 metres of a bus stop. 

7. Renting a car

Manual transmission is usually the default option car rental agencies provide. If you prefer an automatic, make sure you specify this (usually more expensive).

The minimum age for renting a car in Greece is typically 21 years old. This varies from company to company. They also usually require 1 year of driving experience.

8. Your licence

EU-issued licences and licences from countries that are party to the Vienna convention are valid in Greece.

As of November 5, 2021, driving licenses issued by Australia, Canada, Gibraltar, the United Kingdom, and the United States of America are also recognized in Greece. 

Otherwise, an international driving license must be accompanied by your current national driving license. 

9. Gas stations

Gas stations in Greece are manned by an attendant. In small villages they might close at 7 pm, in larger towns and off highways at 9 pm or 10 pm. Some are 24 hours. At least one gas station must remain open in each area at night and on Sundays by law. Ask a local to point you in the right direction. Credit cards are mostly accepted, but don’t be surprised if the odd station in outlying areas asks for cash. 

10. Useful contacts while you are on the road:

Ambulance service: 166

European emergency number: 112

Police: 100

Tourism Police: 171

Fire service: 199

Lastly,

Lookout (on Google Maps) for archaeological sites to check out along the way. Greece is peppered with exciting stops where you can touch ancient history in relative solitude as you cruise these lands of many legends.

Trip planning is an artform. And once you weave in mid-air crying fits, weaning feeding frenzies, and mid-swim poo changes, it takes extra guts and grit. So how do you go from barely surviving to actually enjoying the holidays with kids? At the risk of overgeneralising, we’ve whittled down six years of hard-fought wisdom into eight tips to get you started:

1. Get a beach house

Could anything be better than a villa meters from the shore for families with kids under two? Perhaps only if that seaside location also happens to be in the vicinity of a mid-sized village (e.g. Platis Gialos in Sifnos and Panormos in Skopelos). When baby takes a snooze, snag a chance to take a swim, stand-up paddle board, wander village shops, and even linger for a Greek coffee. And because it stays bright out until eight-ish in summer, an early bedtime means there’s still evening strolls, sunset yoga and sundown drinks to look forward to. You might have to compromise on the beach’s dreamy factor, but the convenience of doorstep proximity is priceless.

When you’re looking at beach houses, don’t downplay the need for the shore to really be at your doorstep. Because a 200-meter walk with bub and beach toys in the blazing summer sun is also not fun.

2. When selecting an island, small is beautiful

Unless your kids love lengthy car rides, anywhere you can drive from one end of the island to the other in 30 to 40 minutes is ideal (e.g. Milos, Paros, Skopelos, Alonissos, but not Mykonos). Too large (e.g. Crete, Kefalonia, Evia), and you might have to suffer hour-long road trips to get to key attractions (and back). Small is simple, and simple, oftentimes less stressful. Just remember that small islands also have fewer accommodation options, so it’s critical to book early (more than nine months ahead, ideally) to secure star finds.

3. Research your beaches

Even lazy beach days require pro-planning prowess. A good dose of foresight and a little research goes a long way: Are the waters calm and shallow? Where should you go on windy days (check wind strength and direction here)? Is it organised (i.e. with sunbeds and umbrellas) or without shade? Where will you go for food and drink? Is parking right behind or do you have to descend 300 steps to get there? And then, there’s what to bring. If you like to pack light, make sure you select an island with enough organised beach options for you.

4. Apartment rental vs hotels

This is often a stylistic preference of the way you like to travel as a family. And while I’m generally weary of Airbnbs because of the lack of consistency in how they are run, in Greece, many are run as professionally as hotels.

So we tend to do that with kids in Greece, appreciating all the space we can get. Including that patio set in an olive grove embellished with a flower garden and lemon and pomegranate fruit trees. Better equipped, breakfasts, snacks and the occasional home-cooked meal are just easier to prepare in a full kitchen. And of course, there’s the benefit of having additional bedrooms so we don’t have to tiptoe around the kids in the dark after bedtime. Always lookout for air-conditioning (not a standard) and a washing machine in the amenities list.

For short-term stays of 3 days or less, I am inclined to say hotels are the least stressful way to go. Especially after one disaster 2-night trip in a highly-rated Athens Airbnb when we found ourselves waiting until 10pm on Christmas Eve for our hosts to provide complete bedding (the duvets were missing duvet covers in winter) and clean towels (the ones we found were soiled). Hotels tend to be more predictable in terms of what you’re going to get. You also don’t have to worry about boring details like taking out the trash, stocking up on toilet paper, and cleaning up the constant trail of crumbs that get left on the floor.

5. Pack light (especially if you’re travelling by ferry)

As first-time parents, we took flight with all our best arsenal – travel cot, portable high chairs, inflatable bath tub, towels and linen, feeding equipment, a week’s supply of frozen purees in a cooler bag … We now drop the cot and portable feeding chair thanks to well-equipped holiday rentals. Don’t forget to check the amenities section (a washing machine and air-conditioning are usually non-negotiables for us) in Airbnb listings and contact your host for requests and clarifications. Linen for baby cots was never needed (strangely absent in US and UK Airbnb rentals in our experience). An inflatable tub is low on the list. Instead, we ask our hosts for a plastic wash basin (“lakani”) if you need a baby bath tub (or get one from a mini mart for €5), also useful for quick swimsuit washes. We go light on pampers, wipes, and snacks since the supermarket is always a first stop for bottled water (tap water on most islands is not drinkable). So what do we bring aside from the obvious? The stroller (and/or baby carrier). And perhaps a travel potty for road trips.

6. Rent a car

Greece is for exploring. Secret beach paradises down dirt tracks, tranquil tavernas perched by the sea, untouched mountain villages, the precious ruins of ancient monuments strewn along the way … With or without kids, without a car your destination would be limited to bus terminals (smaller islands may not even offer bus services). But if you must travel without a car, find accommodation within the chora (town center) or a seaside village, and pick an island with established bus routes.

7. Take it slow

Island hopping with kids is more like a laboured leapfrog crawl. With luggage spilling over with assortments of packing cubes, and new spaces to adapt to with little ones, spend at least five to seven days on a small to medium-sized island.

8. Skip the Athens stopover

Athens is a beautiful, hot mess. Unmissable, but probably best left until they can walk without whining, see beauty in ancient ruins, and enjoy the stillness of museums. Stopovers in general tend to be stressful for families (mine at least), so we suggest skipping it entirely unless you’re using Athens as a starting point for a road trip. Trading in flights or ferry transfers for a continuous car journey, an advantage of the road trip is that once you’ve filled your boot, you’re set until your final stop. From Athens, you can still experience island living on the glorious shores of southwest Peloponnese (e.g. Voidokilia and Elafonisos island near Mani), or Lefkada, an Ionian island with stellar beaches, connected to the mainland by bridge.

Last updated: 14 April 2021

Touched with island magic, this curated list of keepsakes and edible souvenirs uncover special ateliers and smart finds located off the beaten path of tourist shops. Uniquely Greek, stylish, and of the moment, they make winning gifts for loved ones back home. Or if, like us, you are homebound and pining for pre-COVID summers in Greece, go online for a virtual simulation of evenings spent getting lost in a maze of island village shops.

TO BEACH WITH

Sea You Soon’s beach towels are the perfect companion on long summer days. Sand resistant, absorbent, lightweight, and easy to pack, choose from elegant stripes to eye-catching prints. Equally covetable are their clutches and the Luz tote bag. We love the tote’s 2 handle option which gives us the flexibility we need for juggling babies and bits.

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TO BEAUTIFY

Handcrafted and full of character, Kerameio’s edgy and elegant ceramics are lovingly made in Serifos. Also finished with non-toxic glazes, we love their squeezed cups (pictured here) with asymmetric appeal. Or for a memento with a distinctively Greek signature, their V-shaped blue and white jugs are strikingly bold and beautiful.

So steeped in history, there’s always an archaeological site somewhere nearby in Greece. Exploring our ancient past in between beach hops, the Benaki Museum Shop allows you to take home memories of such special encounters with objects of old. They carry a selection of faithful museum replicas reproduced by craftsmen using ancient techniques. We love the simplicity of their Cycladic collection, including the bowl pictured here.

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TO PLAY WITH

Celebrating the heroes and heroines of the 1821 Greek War of Independence, Katerina Kourteli has created a collection of four exquisite hand painted peg dolls. Timeless toys for hours of creative play, meet Laskarina Mpoumpoulina, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Manto Mavrogenous and Nikitas Stamatelopoulos. Katerina ships worldwide. Contact her on Instagram @katerina.kourteli.art.

We love Svoora – a local brand with a wide and thoughtful range of beautiful wood toys. These spinning wood tops come in a selection of Greek Gods and icons, including Cycladic style chapels and boats.

Here are toys that grown ups get just as excited about. Playmobil’s 12 Gods of Olympus take imaginations to the mythological worlds of ancient Greece. Another collection features characters from familiar Aesop’s fables classics. Available online or in store from Forget Me Not, check out other fabulous memorabilia from this treasure of a gift shop.

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TO WEAR

Energise your work days with Thalassa’s ties and scarves that diffuse vacation vibes into the hustle of the daily grind.  In a variety of Greek motifs from Cycladic architecture to Evzones soldiers, there’s a design for any icon of Greece that is personally significant to you.

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TO SAVOUR

Vefa’s Kitchen is a compendium of recipes providing enough guidance to open a Greek restaurant. Also bearing a striking cover, it doubles up as a coffee table book if ever your culinary enthusiasm runs dry. 

Or step right into a Greek home kitchen with Alexandra Stratou. Cooking with Loula uncovers the soul and spirit of Greek cooking. Busy moms will appreciate the section on simple and healthy weekday dishes. 

Lastly, our favourite go-to chef on YouTube released an English cookbook (Akis Petrezekis – Greek Comfort Food) in 2019. With easy to execute and reliable recipes, it’s the next best thing if you can’t bring Akis home with you.  

Those mint green boxes of chocolate coated blobs became increasingly familiar when our Greek friends returned from their homeland. The mystery –  decadent Tsoureki brioche-like buns from the Thessaloniki institution, Terkenlis. Packed to-go and available at the Athens and Thessaloniki airports, these edible souvenirs transcend most individual differences for thougtless-thoughtful gifting.

Greece is an Eden of aromatic herbs. Mountain tea or sideritis is mild, floral, rich in antioxidants and beautifully paired with honey. Brew, sweeten, and shake with ice until frothy for cool summer drink that will refresh any a hot day. Or drink hot as is. Tastefully tinned, Anassa’s mountain and other teas know the importance of packaging design in the tradition of gift-giving.

Any actions you undertake based on the information provided in this website is at your own risk. Please read disclaimer before proceeding.

In an age of doubt, preparedness is key. We highlight important information and contacts for emergencies and the unexpected when in Greece. 

HEALTHCARE

While the economic crisis left public healthcare in a less than desirable state, the general state of Greece’s healthcare is still rated well. Increasingly a hub for medical tourism, the per capita availability of physicians is higher than the EU15 average (+67%)*. There is a doctor on every island in Greece, and small government healthcare centers or hospitals on larger islands.

With public services being close to free, they tend to be plagued by overcrowding woes and in need of facilities upgrades. At the same time, doctors in the public sector are highly experienced in specialised and critical cases.

For out-patient visits, we tended to choose private options being faster, smoother, and providing access to newer and better facilities . Available at comparatively reasonable cost, our average trips to a private doctor ranged from €30 to €50. Private care is not, however, always available on smaller islands.

– – – MINOR AILMENTS – – –

For minor maladies, you can visit a pharmacist. Competent and skilled, they are able to advise on minor ailments and recommend appropriate medication. They should also be able to direct you to a local doctor or health center when required. Most doctors and pharmacy staff speak English.  

To find a pharmacy, look for the lighted green cross that is easily spotted in their abundance in village and city centers. While opening hours are odd and vary (e.g. pharmacists on a small Greek island vs downtown Athens keep different hours), they generally keep the following schedule: Monday, Wednesday: 8 a.m. – 2 p.m. / Tuesday, Thursday, Friday: 8 a.m. -2 p.m. and 5:30 – 8 pm. 

In spite of scattered opening hours, there is always one pharmacy in the area providing 24–hour services. Locate this by heading to the pharmacy closest to you and looking for the notice posted on the door showing where. The notice is usually in Greek, so enlist local help or use Google Translate App’s visual translation ability. You can also try Vrisko’s search or call 1434.

– – – EMERGENCIES – – –

Emergency public healthcare is generally free in Greece, even for tourists. Go to the emergency department of a hospital or call the National Center for Emergency Care (EKAV) ambulance: 166. 

For a private ambulance in Athens, Thessaloniki and central Greece, you can contact SOS Iatroi.

If you are on a small island with no hospital facilities and are in need of critical assistance, you will be transferred by an EKAV helicopter or ferry to a major city with a public hospital. Private air ambulance alternatives include Gamma Air Medical and Athens Medevac .

SAFETY & STRIKES

All things considered, Greece is safe. It enjoys a “High” rating on 2022’s Global Peace Index^. At the same time, take common-sense precautions to avoid pick pocketing and petty theft crimes common to most European cities. Avoid areas with higher crime in Athens, in particular the area between Omonia towards Psiri, and Exarcheia. And in the event of protests, avoid Exarchia and Syntagma Square.

For getting around, use only licensed taxis (I prefer booking them with Freenow when in Athens) and tour guides.

Greece is not famous for being perfectly stable. Worker strikes and protests frequently surface to disrupt and cause system breakdowns. Keep updated with news feeds from reliable sources (See section on News Sources for Updates below).

• Ekathimerini – The English edition of an established Greek newspaper.
• Livin Lovin – Follow their Facebook page for updates on worker strikes for taxis, metros, buses, railways and other services.

DRIVING IN GREECE

“(A)lmost one in five visitors to Greece experienced a serious safety incident on the roads”. ** The same report also mentions that Greece has the highest rate of motorcyclist fatalities among all 28 EU member countries. These can by worrying facts if you’re planning to drive in Greece. Familiarise yourself with local road rules, routes, and always drive defensively. When driving on islands, keep in mind that sometimes the Google Maps will suggest shortcuts that are really just dirt paths. Roads are also narrow here, and oftentimes, what looks like a one lane road is really a two lane road.

SUMMARY OF CONTACTS

General Emergency Line for Greece and the EU: 112 (in Greek, English, French) for the Hellenic Army, Greek Police (ELAS), the Coast Guard, and the national ambulance service EKAV. 

• National Center for Emergency Care (EKAV) ambulance: 166
• National Public Health Organisation (e.g. to report Covid-19 symptoms): 1135
• Poison Control: 210 779 3777

• Police Hotline: 100
• Tourist Police: 171 (in English, French and German)

• Roadside Assistance (ELPA) for car problems: 10400
• Fire: 199
• Coast Guard: 107
• Telephone Directory Inquiries:  11888
  

Sources

• ^ Global Peace Index 2022 by the Institute for Economics and Peace
• * Greece: Highlights on Health and Well-being by the World Health Organisation
• ** Forbes Article: Travelers Headed To Greece Face Increased Risk For Traffic Crashes

Good food is an integral part of an enjoyable holiday. And with its bounty of beautiful seasonal ingredients, it’s not difficult to feed children well on the road in Greece. Whether you’re navigating a taverna menu for a Bolognese pasta taste-alike (quick answer: Pastitsio), assembling an easy breakfast (or dinner? Barba Stathis’ ubiquitous brand of frozen vegetable combinations for a spread of Greek recipes go straight from freezer to pot) in your Airbnb, or just looking for new ways to help your littlies love Greece, we list some tips and sometimes-healthy ideas for feeding first eaters and beyond in the land renowned for its culinary heritage.

BREAKFAST, DESSERT & SNACKS

TAVERNA APPETIZERS & SIDES

TAVERNA MAINS

SEAFOOD LOVE

And if most things are not working out, there’s always pita gyros (bite-sized meat slices stuffed with fries and tomato slices). Often available from a take-out stand, it’s our pizza alternative for nights in.

With more than 200 inhabited islands for a lifetime of summer escapes, it’s hard to know where to start with Greece. If you’ve only heard of one or two islands in Greece, it’s likely to be Santorini or Mykonos. I would avoid Mykonos entirely, for reasons explained here. Santorini truly is a slice of magic, but only if you’re visiting in early Spring or late Autumn.

I will also venture to say that I don’t think cruise ships with day-long stopovers are the best way to appreciate its islands. Nor are all-inclusive resorts designed to keep you hotel-bound. Greece is for exploring. And loving Greece, without some luxe city comforts and with its idiosyncratic ways, can be a gradual process. But once you cast-off certain seasoned traveller expectations and allow its multifaceted character to unfold, it’s hard not to love deeply.

Time is required. It would be remiss to sweep through Greece in 3 to 5 days. Also depending on where you are travelling from, and how long you take to get over jet lag, allow for at least 8 to 14 days on a large island like Crete, or on 2 or so small-ish islands within an island group. Unless you’re trying to satiate a voracious travel appetite, or have lots of time, we wouldn’t pack too many islands into a trip.

Ready to start? Here’s how:

PICK AN ISLAND GROUP

Geographically clustered and usually well-connected by ferries with near neighbours, Greece’s 6 island groups include:

• The Cyclades – This region of blue and white sugar-cube jewels set in bare rock surroundings are the country’s most popular island group. Islands with airports include Santorini, Mykonos, Milos, Paros, Naxos, and Syros.
• The Saronic Islands – The closest island group to Athens (and all without airports), these include Aegina, Spetses and Hydra.
• Ionian Islands – Famous for fantastic beaches, stunning landscapes and incredible swims in Zakynthos and Lefkada. Also of Corfu fame. Most islands here have airports.
• The Sporades – Lush and leafy, these evergreen islands include those of Mama Mia! fame like Skiathos and Skopelos. Skiathos and Skyros have airports.
• Dodecanese Islands – Rhodos, Kos and Patmos are perhaps the most well-known here. Far-flung and requiring long ferry journeys, most visitors fly into these islands.
• The Northeast Aegean Islands – A scattering of islands in the northeast that lie outside the other island groups including Lesvos, Chios and Ikaria.

I strongly suggest the Cyclades for first-timers. While Greece brims over with beauty, the charm of Cycladic village architecture is original. Well-connected to a diverse array of neighbours by high-speed ferries, this group also lends itself well to easy island hopping.

CYCLADIC ISLAND-HOPPING ITINERARIES

Planning an island hopping itinerary isn’t just about selecting your favourite islands, even if they look close together on the map. You also have to consider which islands have airports you can fly into For those that don’t, research how they are connected by ferry. Ferries.gr provides a good overview of routes and schedules to help you with this. I often start here in determining the best island combinations transport-wise.

The island pairs suggested below are our personal favourites. After flying into the first destination (all first destinations listed below have airports), high-speed ferry travel times to the second destination are highlighted below:

1. Santorini <> Naxos (1 hour 5 minutes)
2. Santorini <> Milos (2 hours)
3. Naxos <> Koufonisia (40 minutes) 
4. Milos <> Naxos (2 hours 20 minutes)
5. Milos <> Sifnos (50 minutes)
6. Paros<> Sifnos(55 minutes)

You can add day trips to some island pairings e.g. while on Milos, sail or ferry over to Polyaigos and Kimolos.

IONIAN ISLAND-HOPPING ITINERARIES

Striking good looks don’t stop with the Cyclades. The Ionian islands display drama and distinct personalities of their own. This would be our second island group of choice after the Cyclades. You can start by flying into Corfu, Kefalonia or Zakynthos, and continuing with your inter-island explorations by ferry.

ONE-STOP DESTINATIONS & ROAD TRIPS

If car travel sounds more appealing than braving the sea, fly into the first destination listed below and continue with a road trip:

1. Crete: In its expanse, you won’t get bored even with 2 weeks on the island. Combine Crete (departing from Heraklion) with Santorini (1 hour 50 minutes via high-speed ferry) and other Cycladic destinations if you like.
2. Athens > Messinia, Peloponnese (3 hours and 30 minutes by car). Enjoy luxe hotels? An opulent string of properties (and their Aqua Parks) have mushroomed on the mammoth coastal development of Costa Navarino. In the region is locally-famed Voidokilia beach (15 minutes away) and the Mycenean Palace of Nestor. Off southern Peloponnese is the island gem of Elafonissos you can also drive to from Athens for more swims in Greece’s sparkling, spectacular waters.
3. Thessaloniki > Halkidiki (1 hour 30 minutes by car), with some of the best beaches in the Mediterranean, and more acclaimed family-friendly resorts (check out Sani), campsites and glamping grounds.
4. Athens > Lefkada (4 hours and 15 minute by car). There are just two islands connected to the mainland by land – Lefkada and Evia. Lefkada’s beaches are far more impressive. Make a stop at Corinth Canal en route.

Last updated 5 June 2024

Bathed in more than 250 days of sunshine a year, is there ever a bad time for a holiday in Greece? Depending on your interests, here’s how to make the most of the weather, local events, and budgets.

No time for the five-minute read? My quick answer on the best months to visit Greece – June and September.

SPRING – ONSET OF THE TOURIST SEASON

From April, tourism to the islands starts to build. Santorini is an exception, already busy with year-round visitors. While smaller islands remain quiet until late spring. Days get longer, already with nine hours of sunshine in May. Afternoon temperatures hover around a perfect 20 degrees Celsius, but expect some risk of rain. This shoulder season is a beautiful time climate-wise and price-wise.

EASTER (24 April 2022)

Easter is one of the biggest religious festivals of the year. Greeks return home to their villages to roast lambs and participate in the season’s festivities with family. If you’re in Greece at this time, lookout for local events. Church processions (Epitaphios) take place on Good Friday morning, and on Easter Sunday, there’s feasting and fun in village squares of islands such as Corfu, Sifnos and Kalymnos. Good Friday and the following Monday are public holidays.

BEACH VACATIONS (JUNE – SEPTEMBER)

The beach – a summer staple in Greece, and one of its biggest attractions with an unrivalled set of conditions for enjoying the sand and sea. Mediterranean waters get warm from June (hovering around 21°C) and remain balmy through to September. The Greek summer solstice with the year’s brightest and longest day in 2022 is June 21. It marks the end of spring.

July and August are the hottest months in Greece. Temperatures average around 32 °C, occasionally rising to 36 °C. With hardly a cloud in the sky and little rain (if any) to disrupt your outdoor plans, you’ve arrived in the land of clear blue skies and endless sunshine. These are not my favourite months -the sun scorches between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., making afternoon plans difficult. And nearly impossible if your holidays happen to coincide with a heatwave. This is also peak summer season and the most expensive time for hotels and flight bookings. I would avoid the first 15 days of August in particular, when domestic tourism surges as Greeks take to the islands for their own vacation. On smaller islands that are popular or quickly gaining popularity, infrastructure is stretched, making it an uncomfortable experience for all.

For me, early June and early September are the best times to visit, especially with young children. The waters have warmed up, and there’s a good dose of sunshine that’s less intense so you can still enjoy the beach in the afternoon without burning. The tradeoff? The odd chance of rain and cloudy skies. Fewer are the crowds, and by the third week of September, the smaller islands start to wind down for summer.

Summers are longer in the southerly isles of Crete and Rhodos, which remain warm through Spring and Autumn, albeit with increased chance of rain and even storms. These are good options if you’ve been procrastinating and need smart options for a last-minute summer.

For island specific weather updates, including beach specific swimming conditions (type of sand, depth, weather it’s organised, and more), visit Meteo.gr.

1 TO 15 AUGUST (VIRGIN MARY ASSUMPTION DAY) IN ATHENS

1 to 15 August Annually

The city starts emptying out as Athenians take to the islands from 1 to 15 August. The 15th is a public holiday celebrating the Virgin Mary’s ascension to heaven after death. It’s also when the biggest Panagiri (traditional festival with feasting, music and dancing in celebration of religious dates) of the year is held. Expect an especially wild night out in Paros, Kefalonia, or Ikaria. Ikaria in particular is famous for her “Panagiria” throughout Greece.

Businesses in Athens generally close for the week after 15 August, apart from major shops downtown catering to tourists, large departmental stores and supermarkets. It’s a hot, hot time, not helped by the summer smog of the concrete jungle. 

AUTUMN & WINTER SIGHTSEEING

Apart from Santorini (which now opens throughout winter through the coordinated efforts of hotels, businesses, travel companies and local authorities) and islands with larger cities like Crete, Rhodos, Corfu and Evia, smaller islands close for the season from October to March. Syros is an exception as the administrative capital of the Cyclades and a thriving cultural scene.

Spring and Autumn are the best times to visit archaeological sites, as most have little or no shade from the sun’s blaze. The clocks change for daylight savings towards the end of October. When the sun starts to set earlier which may be a holiday mood dampener, you may want to travel before then.

Head to mainland mountain village attractions like Arachova and neighbouring Delphi, home of the ancient sanctuary that served as the seat of the Oracle. To the surprise of many, Greek winters can attract a considerable amount of snow. If you’re around in January and February, Kalavrita and Parnassos ski resorts are just a 2-hour drive from Athens.

Meteora in Central Greece, another “bucket-list” destination and UNESCO Heritage Site, is an other-worldly display of the engineering feats of men. The inspiration behind The Eyrie in the Game of Thrones, 24 monasteries sit atop sandstone peaks towering over 300 meters into the sky. Also in Central Greece, Pelion is beautiful for ambient drives through lush, wooded mountain slopes and walks through rustic villages.

There’s plenty more mountain villages to delight nature lovers. And yet untouched by mass tourism, it’s a good opportunity to see the cozy, romantic side of Greek culture and its traditions.

Last updated: 1 May 2024

Most islands in Greece don’t have airports, leaving you with the hairy task of navigating the Greek ferry system. Initially daunting for foreigners in light of local peculiarities, with a bit of practice, ferries can be an appealing way to travel. What are they main considerations for families and how do you ensure the smoothest ride possible?

TYPES OF FERRIES

Not all ferries are made the same, so choose your vessel wisely. The large, high-speed ferries and catamarans (e.g. Golden Star SuperExpress, Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 6 and 7, Seajet WorldChampion Jet and Champion Jet1) are typically the only options we take. If you are seasick-inclined, remember that the larger the ferry, the more stable on the seas. Some ferries also have sleeping cabins for overnight travel to far- flung islands. Avoid the small and bumpy Flying Dolphin hydrofoils wherever possible. You can always check on the specific features of the ferry you plan to book by searching its name (as provided by your booking engine) out online.

While ferry travel times are longer than flights, there are some advantages to large high-speed ferries, especially for families. 

ADVANTAGES OF FERRY TRAVEL

1. Comfort, space and amenities – More spacious than an airplane, if you’re travelling with kids, you can even bring your stroller on board larger ships for them to stretch out and sleep on. There’s ample space to walk around, and sometimes, a kids’ area (e.g. with a small screen playing cartoons, or even a mini playground). Hydrofoils aside, we’ve never been in a vessel without a cafe selling sandwiches, pies, and refreshment. Cafe-style seating around a table is also a feature of some vessels (e.g. Golden Star SuperExpress or Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 to the Cyclades). Restrooms have bad days, but are usually acceptably maintained.  Most are also equipped with baby changing tables in a separate family restroom. For added comfort, upgrade to Business Class. The actual experiential difference between class types differs from boat to boat, so you may want to wait to board the boat before deciding. There’s usually the option to upgrade onboard if space is available.
2. Timing – With ferries, it’s safe to arrive at the port 30-40 minutes ahead of your departure time. Keep in mind you might need another 15 minutes to navigate Pireaus in its largeness. So considering you don’t have to deal with the tedium of check-ins, boarding procedures, waiting for baggage, and other formalities which set a one hour flight back by another two hours, ferries start to make sense if the journey is not too long (3 hours or so), and you’re weighing it against plane travel.
3. Car transport – If you are planning to island hop, some high-speed ferries carry cars onboard (and all your baggage in it). We have a car in Greece so this makes sense for us. If you’re renting one in Athens, you could also take this from island to island. A parking spot for your car is at added cost, and they fill up quickly, so book well ahead for this. Also be warned that maneuvering and parking your car within the narrow confines of car holding area can be a tricky thing you have to do with speed. Lastly, check your insurance policy coverage to be certain of any limitations for domestic travel. All that said, it might just be easier to rent a car at your new destination.

DISADVANTAGES OF FERRY TRAVEL

1. Unlike flights, ferries are subject to cancellations and delays due to high winds. A pretty serious inconvenience, especially if the island you are stranded on doesn’t have an airport alternative.
2. Port-side waiting areas are near non-existent, and uncomfortable. Hardly any seating and/or shade is available, so if you’re not in a car, you will have to drag your luggage around and stand in the scorching sun for a good 30 minutes as you wait for your boat. Otherwise, you simply sit in your car once you’ve parked it in the queue.
3. Boarding procedures are also chaotic, with hundreds (and their luggage) funneling into the entryway to board at the same time.
4. Many of the ferries depart from Athens very early in the morning at about 7 a.m. – not a fun time by which to get the whole family in order.

HOW TO BOOK YOUR BOAT

Ferries.gr offers a good overview of routes, operators (small and major), and schedules to help you plan an island-hopping itinerary. I usually start here when putting an itinerary together to determine the island combinations that make the most sense transport-wise.

Ferryhopper has a user-friendly online booking platform we like. Prices on all search engine databases we have used are the same or insignificantly different.

If you haven’t seen your connection available online, this may be because schedules have yet to be released (especially for less popular routes and smaller ferry operators). While major operators (e.g. Seajets, Hellenic Seaways and Golden Star) open-up bookings well in advance, smaller operators may only release schedules 2 or 3 months ahead of the main summer holiday season.

QUICK TIPS

• Consider Rafina port (an option for some destinations) as an alternative to Pireaus . It’s easier to navigate being smaller, less chaotic, and with fewer crowds to jostle with. A third port in Athens at Lavrion is another alterative.
• When you arrive at the port, it’s not always clear where to go. If you’re departing from Pireaus, look up the appropriate gate for your boat in advance as there is considerable walking distance from one gate to another. In the event of any confusion, ask port police for guidance. Easy to spot in dark blue uniforms, they are widely available to guide vehicular traffic.

• Ferries (like planes) are not always on time. For real-time location updates, check the status of your ferry on an app like Marine Traffic.
• If you’re not taking a vehicle, pack light. You will have to haul your luggage around considerably, stairs included. Luggage may be left on the racks found on both sides of the car deck as you board. These are stowed here on an at-your-own-risk basis.
• If you’re taking your vehicle, be prepared to drive on and off the boat quickly to avoid holding up traffic. It’s always a mad boarding rush to ensure the boat departs on time. Also be prepared to leave the rest of the passengers to board the boat separately (they board with the rest of the passengers) while the driver parks the car. When parking the car, staff will be on deck to guide you on where to park (have your windows down so you can tell them which island you are destined for). This is important to be able to exit on the right island!

• If you’re bringing your stroller on board a large ferry, be prepared to carry this up and down a flight of stairs or two. Some larger ferries may have escalators.
• When boarding the ferry, have your e-tickets or tickets (you will be given the option to select your preference on booking) ready for boat staff to scan. It is likely to state that you will need your ID with you, but we have never been asked to show this.
• Your seats may or may not be automatically assigned (some ferries have free seating). If they are automatically assigned, check-in early so the system seats your family together.
• Have a light cardigan in hand. It can get cold inside.
• Port and other transport strikes surprise more often than we would like. Keep updated on the newsfeed of official media like Ekathimerini for news updates in Greece.