Set in the heavens and seemingly out of reach, are the spellbinding sights of Meteora accessible to children?
Above the flat plains of Thessaly, a scattering of sky-scraping monasteries straddle the peaks of soaring monoliths. Meteora is a geographical and man-made marvel. First, there are the rocks – an unlikely assembly of sandstone pillars carved out by 60 million years of weathering. Then, its 9th century hermit monks. So compelled to seek solitude they scaled vertiginous cliffs to take refuge in its cavities. In time, they organised their efforts to build 24 monasteries, starting with The Great Meteoron. Hauling up material (and themselves) with pulleys, ropes, ladders, nets and baskets, 6 of these engineering feats remain open to visitors.
VISITING WITH CHILDREN
Reaching heights of up to 400 meters and isolated by design, is it possible to visit these monasteries with kids? Recently made accessible by roads, bridges and stairs hewn into its rockface, some are easier to reach than others.
— THE MONASTERY OF AGIOS STEFANOS —
A visit to Agios Stefanos Nunnery requires no steps at all. A short stone bridge takes you from the main entrance to the holy complex -a fortress-like masonry broken up by open courtyards and gardens with magnificent views you would expect from 575 meters high. It’s an impressive sight to behold, but still not as breathtaking as Varlaam Monastery.
— THE MONASTERY OF VARLAAM —
Parking can be a pain at the monasteries. With tour buses huddled around Varlaam’s entrance, my husband unloaded us at the main gate to continue the search for a parking spot. The tree-shaded, sun-dappled lookout point to the side of the gate turned out to be a lovely place to wait. We settled beside an artist flicking through bright Faber-Castell pastels as he sketched the monastery above, and the rocks beyond. Varlaam has a special enchantment.
Past the main gate, a wood bridge stretches across a deep gash separating the destination monolith from ours. Crossing it will bring you to the base of steps first carved out in 1921. There are 150 steps or so, according to an ever-interrupted count as the girls find themselves riddled with questions at this opportune time. And while any number over 100 sounded intimidating with kids, this turned out to be well within the sufferable reach of a 3-year old. If you’re making comparisons to determine the easiest way up with kids, unlike the Holy Trinity monastery (of James Bond fame), Varlaam doesn’t require a 1 km walk preceding the steps up.
The €3 per person entrance fee (children under 12 and Greeks excepted) has been well appropriated in a series of upgrades. The stairs up are sleek as slate – an artful contrast with the craggy rock face they cut into. The monastery grounds are also beautifully manicured. Built around a courtyard over a series of terraces, narrow walkways with arched entrances separate secret corners, intimate chapels, wine storage rooms, and a museum. As we scuttle through corridors with the excitement of being in an Alice in of Wonderland type adventure, I am relieved to find that most passageways appear to magically open up into a central courtyard adorned with terracotta-potted flowers and mini cypress trees. Taking shade under a pavilion perched on the rock’s edge and a panoramic view of what’s beyond, I feel closer to God already.
Remember to dress appropriately (long skirts and sleeves for women, shorts above the knee for men) on your visit. Also take note of opening times which change according to the season.
WHERE TO STAY
Kalabaka town (and its conveniences) or quieter kastraki village, it doesn’t really matter. Both stand at the foot of the rocks and connect via a short ring road.
Divani (of the reputed Athenian chain) is the finest hotel in Kalabaka, with a pool that is especially attractive at the end of a strenuous summer walk. Alternatively, Harmony House is a 3-bedroom apartment rental with thoughtful details that make it especially appealing for families. Apart from the benefit of space to accommodate zealous kids, there is the option for home-made meals, non-toxic amenities, a playground directly opposite, and the village square around the corner for coffee, tavernas and mini marts. There’s no air conditioning, but we found this to be unnecessary in the beginning of July with ceiling fans in every room. The house is also 100 meters from the foot of a stony walking path through dense vegetation leading to the Holy Trinity monastery. A steeply inclined, but scenic trek (only recommended for older children), it takes 40 minutes before you reach the steps at the base of the monastery.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Our Greek summer this year stretched from mid-June to mid-August, and was disrupted by two heatwave spells in between. With significant stairs to mount to discover the area’s highlights, the last thing you want is for your visit to coincide with a week-long 40 degree Celsius heatwave. Spring and autumn are better times to visit, with fewer crowds and crisp air that’s perfect for hiking. The only downside of “shoulder season” is higher chances of rain and cloudy skies. You can also visit in winter with possible snowfall in January and February.
HOW TO GET THERE
Located in central Greece (and far from its coastal attractions), Meteora is a 4-hour drive from Athens, or a 2-hour drive from Thessaloniki (the second largest city in Greece which has an international airport).
