Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing.
But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?
Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to carve out your own little paradise on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees.
THE BEACH SCENE
Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – stunning beaches. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs. Not that I don’t appreciate the comforts that parasols and sunbeds provide. Especially as a young family with enough on our hands besides umbrellas and chairs to heave. But when an entire beach is covered in beds, there is a feeling of suffocation.
Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In Paraga, this is €80 of burgers and sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family that frequents the beach daily, the price tag gets pretty prohibitive for the average traveller.
The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from northern Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats:
— ELIA —
The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space in spite of a sea of parasols. A patch of sand dividing the main from the nudist section is available for free campers. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in the perfect shade of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is conveniently located right behind.
— KATO LIVADI —
Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Infamous party girl Lindsay Lohan’s beach club takes center stage. It was surprisingly relaxed when we visited in the early afternoon, with widely spaced-out sunbeds.
— PARADISE BEACH —
Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well.
So how did we end up in Tropicana? Paradise and Super Paradise happened to be in the area where we knew we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach. We might have to deal with the madness of the island’s most famed party beach clubs, but after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed.
Tropicana was our first stop for no particular reason. It also happened to be a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend. So we parked ourselves here for the afternoon. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m.. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, the music gets louder as the sun sets – all was still bearable as it approached the time to put babies to bed.
NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)
The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.
Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we stole out to the waterfront one street away with its cafes and restaurants. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot), or three, roaming the harbour.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys.
High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.
Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach.
DINING WITH CHILDREN
Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.
Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:
— FOKOS TAVERNA —
On wild, dark, and far out Fokos stands a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.
— LIMNIOS TAVERN —
The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.
— NOSOTROS —
Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.
While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a special space worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.
HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?
A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails that lead to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting out classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.
Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. In the search for soul food that is Greek cuisine, we were served small portions of deconstructed fare by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?
But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or stopping by to break the onward journey to another island. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the magic of Mykonos.
WHEN TO VISIT
Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures are still over 20°C. If you appreciate warm swimming waters, but not the crowds, try the end of September. Spring in Greece is always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Unless you’re going to party, avoid July and August. And while winter travel is possible, take note that businesses start to close in late October.
GETTING THERE
You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. The newly renovated airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.
Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two and a half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.
