Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.
Last updated: 29 June 2025
Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and sprawling estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Japanese monastery, devotees seek Zen in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s dramatic hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected outpost of a contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.
With its wild and untamed allure, is Serifos family-friendly? Comparatively undeveloped, it doesn’t have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros. And while the “organised” (as they say in Greece, referring to beaches with cafe-bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds) bits of beaches are limited, other sweet spots offer amenities like tavernas on the beach.
Beyond the sand, there isn’t heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere. In this authentic, carnation-shaped island, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children: climb the low slung tree branches on the shores of Livadaki, build sandcastles on Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek), scale rocks at Ganema, make friends… Greek children are an especially friendly lot, and will often hover around other children, or even approach your taverna table to strike up a new playmate.
My vote for the best thing to do on the island for families against its cinematic backdrop ? The family photoshoot. Dads may wince at the sound of this, but I have never brought home a souvenir from Greece I treasure more. As I tore the family from the beach and chased them like chickens to meet photographer (and award-winning island beekeeper) Nikos Kokolakis at 6:30pm at the Chora, I started to question the wisdom of my arrangement. But after sighting the artful keepsakes he delivered, I would do it ten times over again.
Serifos is one of the easier Cylcadic islands to get to. While flights are not an option without an airport, it’s just a two-and-a-half hour high-speed ferry ride away from Piraeus port in Athens.
WHERE TO STAY
Livadi port is an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with its conveniences (mini markets, bakeries, a pharmacy, seafront tavernas, cafés and gelaterias). Also consider neighbouring Livadakia if a good beach is important to you. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea here is a notch more beautiful than Livadi’s, with waters that are calm, clear, shallow, and bordered by wispy mounds of tamarisk crests.
Alternatively, a selection of boutique hideaways dot the edge of the beaches of Agios Sostis, Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis (all just 10 minutes from Livadi). Thinking of the southern side? Vagia and Ganema located farther out also offer seafront accomodation, but are more isolated.
While Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital (“Chora”) draws with arresting vistas flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset, we would advise against this option. Strewn with footpaths featuring an endless terrace of double-height steps to battle with, it’s not designed for people with little legs. It’s also not designed for cars. As the evening sets in, you are likely to find yourself meandering through its streets to find parking for half and hour with one small public lot that quickly fills up.
BEACH HIGHLIGHTS
Serifos’ top beaches rival the best in the Cyclades. Those in the south-eastern quarter boast the turquoise and gold variety. Its southern shores have a dark and wild appeal due to the presence of iron oxide once responsible for its mining wealth. Here, we list the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives. Remember to have a plan for shade. It’s also a good idea to check the wind strength and direction before heading out, because instead of crystal calm waters, you might find heady waves when the north meltimi winds blow at 6 beauforts.
VILLAGE WALKS (AND CHILD-FRIENDLY EATS)
Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both bite-sized, with a handful of smart boutiques and an unexpectedly pulsating nightlife in the square of the Chora. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi is the more interesting, with building remnants attesting to its mining history that are worth exploring.
— LIVADI —
Small, but complete, Livadi is where you will consistently return to for coffee (Indigo makes a good roast), ice cream (Scoop, or neighbouring Cherie for rainbow sprinkles on top), peponi (honey-sweet Greek melons) and peaches from the mini mart (K Supermarket is the most well-stocked), and plasters from the pharmacy.
A diverse selection of tavernas line the waterfront. Most are squeezed close to the port, with little space to play. Head to the quieter side of the beach where Axinos sits for a thoroughly more relaxed setting. Oozing laid back cool in neutral platteted interiors, its menu is an enticing mix of modern Greek. You can order a lamb shank or T-bone steak, but seafood is the highlight, where succulent crayfish swim in silky risotto, and juicy-crisp grouper sits grilled on a celeriac bed. There’s also an exciting dessert selection to finish. Take note that many restaurants in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 4 pm in classic Greek tradition), apart from beach tavernas. Check opening times before you count on being served.
Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, I blinked twice when I spotted Blue Bamboo on Google maps. Asian food in Greek islands is typically not to be trusted, but this is the real Thai food transport from Athens. Unlike its cramped Athenian counterpart, its spacious boho-chic garden grounds are laced with fairy-light garlands for a festive atmosphere. There’s liberal ground for playful scampers in between tables, so parents can count on dining peacefully on pad thais, red curries, and tom kha gai (coconut based soup).
Too tired to eat out? The “mageireio” is what you are looking for. Takeaway ready-cooked, home-style recipes from Taverna Marina by the port. Fronting its kitchen is a display of dishes ready to be packed to-go in a flash.
— CHORA —
Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is an unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving a seemingly endless climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. Impossible with strollers, bring your baby carrier and trained glutes instead.
Follow any flight of stairs upwards, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The diminutive heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and restaurants with tables spilling into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious eateries serving meze-type fare.
Continue towards the castle top, resisting the temptation to turn back on the steep ascent through quiet residential streets. Even with kids. It won’t be long before you reach the church of Agios Konstantinos, teetering 823 feet above the sea with the most magnificent island vistas.
If anyone needs encouragement along the way, “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades (doughnut-like balls) bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked pork slices and fries stuffed in pita bread) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.
It pays to visit the Chora in the early evening, giving you ample time before sunset to soak in the views. Parking anyways in the one public parking lot (near the bus station at the entrance of Ano or Upper Chora) is limited, so a headstart before the lingering beach crowds make their way will reward greatly.
WHEN TO VISIT
Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tall tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach, and he has an IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.
GETTING THERE
There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. But it’s also just a two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port. Sitting on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with an airport you can fly into), it takes just 20 minutes to cross over from Sifnos. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here
FIND A FERRY TO SERIFOS
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