Dainty, delicious, and dazzling, Sifnos is an unassuming delight with a hint of posh. In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays.
If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its addictive village charm.
But Sifnos measures a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it as impressive as some write-ups suggest?
As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a slow rhythm of island life even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine wining, and a trove of exquisite pottery, seven days on the island was just enough.
The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Blanketed in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
Platis Gialos is superbly located. With every convenience and arguably the island’s best beach, don’t let the reference “beach resort” put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with small pensions, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up a great cocktail). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).
We stayed on the far left end, the beach just steps from our patio. A few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, we take a bleary-eyed walk to Palmira for a wake-up brew. To Steki a few doors down will take care of a traditional and hearty lunch that is exemplary of Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 nearby, you might find yourself having dinner on a communal high-standing table with Tom Hanks a few stools down . Plate after plate, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.
The mini market next to Omega3 took care of most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit to snack on, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb.
Feeling adventurous? Consider a boat trip to Polyaigos or Kimolos. Operators like Aegeas Cruises (for small group tours) and Bloomarine (organising private tours starting from €650 for a half-day tour) can be found under the line of umbrellas on the left end of Platis Gialos.
So here in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.
Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. Bounded by towering mountains on each side and with a portside buzz from the main road that runs through, it’s distinctly less tranquil and free. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).
THE BEACH SCENE
Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne sands and aquamarine waters of Koufonissia and Naxos, the muddy sand on Sifnos is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.
VILLAGES
Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. And while small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts saunter along with fitted shirts and cropped pants. It’s a refined scene of understated glamour.
As with most Greek mountain villages with many steps to wrestle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are also the best time to visit to avoid the summer heat. In Greece, we find that long, late naps for the kids work better to keep up with village children dashing around squares and playgrounds that spring to life on late Mediterranean nights.
— APOLLONIA —
Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. It’s not always clear where to find the alleys of interest in the tangle of sprawling walkways, so drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right. The sign in the small square outside that says “to steno” (the narrow way) will point you to it.
— KASTRO —
Cliff-top Kastro, inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.
DINING WITH KIDS
Delicious Sifnos. Drive through its terraced mountainous terrain and you will see how it has smartly cultivated its fertile lands to fill the handmade kleftiko pots that arrive on your taverna table. It’s also home to Greece’s first celebrity chef. Could a bad meal not be had in this culinary capital? And how sublime is the best, really?
Beyond its embellished reputation and romantic write-ups of sage and thyme scented air, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and exceptional restaurants as most other Greek islands. So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools?
— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —
Where we were initiated into the island’s sacred recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful was Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a playground of sandy shores lies just below.
— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —
Built along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the tavern. They, too, serve a good lamb mastelo and veal stamna.
— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —
Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis has the advantage of being positioned by a small square for kids to scamper around as you watch over.
GETTING THERE
Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos, the boat continues on to Milos. While Sifnos has no airport, you can first fly into Milos (a 40-minute ride away on a high-speed ferry) for the perfect island pairing.
WHEN TO VISIT
Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, you might be in for a surprise if you go a little too early in Spring (when businesses start to open), or too late in Autumn (when the island empties out). The last 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.
