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Islands with Airports

While every inhabited Greek island is served by ferries, some have airports. Popular islands like Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodos and Crete will even have direct connections to select European cities.

A complete list of international and domestic airports may be found in the Hellenic Civil Aviation Authority’s site here.

Destinations

Limnos is Pure Greece – A Guide to the North Aegean’s Family Delight

by Lindsay Sep 05, 2025

written by Lindsay

From a seaside sprouting bun-shaped rocks, to a fortress with free-roaming deer, little-known Limnos is filled with child-loving surprises.

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It was about 4pm when we settled under the thick shade of a line of Mulberry trees at Agrokiali. A late lunch even by Mediterranean standards. We were famished. And when our plates arrived, it was like they understood exactly how famished. We haven’t seen these portion sizes in Greece for a long time.

Limnos, as we were going to discover, is like that. Greece before the onslaught of mass tourism. Where a serving for one Greek belly feeds two internationally. Where dessert is gifted after meals as a gesture of welcome generosity towards guests. Where Greek is not spoken over by American, British and Australian-English accents. And where you can still enjoy seaside sunloungers for free, with patronage.

Agios Ioannis, Limnos — *Sunset at Agios Ioannis*.

After holidaying in the heavily-touristed Cyclades, Limnos was a fresh breath of heartfelt hospitality. Like its pillowy hillscape of undulating land, it embraces arrivals with gentleness and generosity. A land largely untamed, but with just enough polish to put family travellers at ease. With fertile lands, a strategic location bridging the East and the Aegean, and safe harbours, its fortunate history of modest prosperity shows up in Neoclassical harbourfront villas, manicured villages, and good infrastructure (for Greece).

WHAT TO DO

Most tourists flock to Greece for the beach. Sandy, shallow and organised (as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas), the sheltered coves scalloping the Limnian shoreline are great for child’s play, Yet, with sand the colour of Mercury (pristine, nonetheless) and better viewed from a drone-shot distance, it wasn’t our highlight.

Salt Lake in Limnos — *From salt flats (pictured here) home to migratory birds including flamingos in winter, to sand dunes, Limnos’ landscape is diverse and impressive.*

There are a bevy of other things to do. If you wanted one place to introduce your children to an impossible ensemble of fascinating geosites, Limnos landed in the fortuitous confluence of it all. Strangely, it also has more playgrounds than we have seen on any other Greek island, all impressive by Greek standards. In addition to well-maintained archaeological sites, sprawling dining venues both atmospheric and child-friendly, and a seaside Chora (main village) with wide pedestrian-only walkways. Throw horse riding into the sea, basket weaving workshops, wind and kite surfing classes – and it’s hard to keep up with the options. Here’s what we packed into 7 days:

— MYRINA HARBOUR & CASTLE —

Spotting poo in our pathways has never been as exciting. For within this Byzantine fortress grounds, a herd of spotted Fallow deer roam. As we made our way through its vast grounds built on a volcanic dome, we spotted one, then a family of three, and finally a gathering of at least 30 grazing deer on the grassy plain near the foot of the citadel. The walk is a continuous ascent over dirt and stone, past a scattering of crumbling fortification walls, arched gates, and underground bunkers. There was little whining on the way, just the desire to keep exploring.

Visit at least an hour before sunset to watch it sink in the direction of the lighthouse. You might also want to fuel up before the walk with coffee and pancakes at Nefeli bar at its foot, overlooking the waterfront.

Shaded shopping walkways in Myrina — *The main shopping street in Myrina is largely shaded for comfortable summer walks.*

— FARAKLOU ROCKS —

I was excited to show the girls the geological marvels of spheriodical weathering and frozen lava flows. But all they could see was a food fantasy of rocks shaped like croissants and chocolate buns. An entertaining food fantasy, nonetheless. After the 3km dirt road ends, a 5-minute walk will bring you to this whimsical place of Sarakiniko-like beauty. Best visited early in the morning or when the sun relents, you can cover the site in 30 minutes.

— THANOS BEACH —

A beach with benefits, the kids were very happy for the inflated water park at Thanos to colour their daily beach trips. Rotating between a thrilling 4-meter high slide, climbing tower, and a bouncy trampoline, it’s the non-stop action you need to reverse the job of an afternoon siesta. For kids 5 years and up, the fee is €8 per hour or €5 for 30 minutes.

— SANCTUARY OF THE KABEIROI —

An archaeological site visit was never going to excite the kids. Thankfully, you correspondingly only pay for adult entry (€5 per person) at Greek archaeological sites. Recently renovated with new facilities (toilets with baby changing tables included), this sanctuary’s cliffside spot is a beautiful and breezy one. There’s also shade to be found under a pergola by a spreading fig tree where kids can sit with a snack bag, while parents appreciate an encounter with 6th century B.C history. Archaeologists at work restoring the lower portion of the slope added interest to our visit. The site closes at 2pm, ruling out evening visits, so head out early instead.

The Sanctuary of Kabeiroi in Limnos — *Dedicated to the Kabeiroi Gods, the sanctuary is one of 3 of the most important ancient settlements in Limnos (Poliochni and Hephaistia are two others)*.

— PLAYGROUNDS —

Playgrounds in Greece are often a scrappy sight, but the ones in Limnos are a cut above. Strategically located are the ones in Moudros harbour (opposite To Kyma taverna where we are happy to dine on repeat) and Myrina’s waterfront.

DINING WITH KIDS

Our introduction to the Limnian dining scene centered around our apartment rental in Agios Ioannis, peppered with a noteworthy variety of seaside restaurants that couldn’t be better in the company of children. Along with options in town and in-the-middle-of-nowhere villages, these were our standout experiences:

— BARBOUNAKI (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Camped under a rock stack on the shores of Agios Ioannis, Barbounaki is the most atmospheric dining spot on Limnos. Basket-weave lampshades and dreamcatchers sway from tamarisk branches with blue wooden boats tucked under, creating little nooks for child’s play in this rustic elegant island dining dream.

Can a place this beautiful have good food to match? Perhaps better. When you think you’re just ordering sardines, a selection of the largest, chubbiest, and juiciest five arrive in star formation on a bed of sliced onions. Meanwhile, the fried calamari was so finely-crisped yet succulent, distinguishing themselves a notch above traditional taverna fare.

— AGROKALIA (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Thoroughly laid back with a zen-inducing view towards the sea, Agrokialia is quintessential, traditional seaside taverna dining. Complete with Greek folk music from the 60s. And keeping with Greek tradition, meats tend to be cooked on the very well done side, so I’d go for seafood. As if to deliberately force you into ease, the service is also languid, but very friendly. A big bonus for families with children? Shaded swings by a small vineyard and heaps of space all around.

— KALOUDITSA (PLATY) —

In the corner of Platy village square opposite a pint-sized playground, Kalouditsa‘s popular appeal is apparent from its lunchtime crowd. Tavernas in Greek squares don’t usually attract in the heat of summer, so its the only place in the square that’s busy. A handwritten menu card of meat-heavy mains (oven-baked pork in orzo, oven-baked beef with mash and caramelised onions, goat with roasted potatoes) is small, but well-executed. …And to finish, a sublime shot of homemade liquor from geranium and cinnamon sealed our lasting impression. Unfortunately, they don’t make enough of this to sell.

— CAVO DEL MAR (MYRINA) —

The spacious waterfront strip is where you want to dine with children in Myrina. And when the kids chant for pizza, Cavo Del Mar treats you to decent Italian with a semi-elegant vibe to match. Any a fussy eater should find their match in a formidably large selection of pizzas, pastas, meats, and even salads.

— REMEZZO (PLAKA) —

Visiting the northern attractions of the island? Remezzo set in the wilderness of Plaka’s outskirts calms with heavy countryside silence. Traditional taverna favourites have a home cooked slant, with gigantes (giant beans), dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves), and beetroot salad on the menu. The kids opted for loukaniko (local sausage) having run out of burgers for the day, alternating with zucchini fries.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many benefits to staying in the port capital of Myrina, including the fortress attraction, the town and its amenities (AB Vassilopoulos, our go-to supermarket on the islands, bakeries, pharmacies and a playground), and a beach a little farther down.

But the seaside tranquility of Agios Ioannis 20 minutes away suited us better, with our favourite dining haunts, a mini mart, and evenings soaked in hypnotic views of the sun sinking behind Mount Athos. A scattering of apartment rentals line the beachfront with easy access to the sea. And in spite of new builds that keep mushrooming, the vibe is still thoroughly laid-back.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Throughout rolling hills of arid bushland and terracotta roofed villages, camouflaged military bunkers are scattered throughout. A solitary mass in the North Aegean seas, Limnos sits on the borders of Greece, facing Turkey in the horizon.

An island airport whisks travellers from Athens to Limnos in 45 minutes, although a 9-hour ferry ride is also possible. Closer are the north mainland ferry ports of Thessaloniki and Kavala, in addition to possible connections with neigbouring islands like Lesvos and Thassos.

Book a car rental as soon as you book your tickets, as providers are limited. Happy Rentals provided us with a brand new drive, and service we couldn’t complain about.

Sep 05, 2025 0 comment

Destinations

Island Wilderness and Wildlings – A Guide to Karpathos with Kids

by Lindsay Sep 02, 2023

written by Lindsay

Kyria Panagia Beach in Karpathos, Greece

Adrift off the southwestern reaches of Greece, Karpathos is remote. With a view towards North Africa in the distant horizon, what does this far-flung and little-known island have to offer?

The iridescent colours of its Instagram beach images first lured us. Along with a reputation for windsurfing, and romantic stories of mountain villages akin to living museums untouched by time. In spite of its impressive roster of attractions, you will still hear little of Karpathos. But as steadily as the asphalt road to Olympus completed in the 1970s, luxe villas are beginning a creep from its crystalline shoreline.

After exiting the airport, continuous blasts of wind remind us that we have arrived in wilderness. This is what makes the island the best windsurfing spot in Greece. It’s also why you will be a little hard-pressed to find child-friendly swimming on the island. At the same time, as we zig-zag through the craggy rockscapes of lofty mountains and azure seas below, the beauty of this land is immediately captivating. Combined with some well-researched choices, Karpathos can be a beautiful and easy adventure with kids.

Trees in Karpathos — So windy on Karpathos its trees grow sideways

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

While the island is not huge, travel times are made longer by winding roads through its mountainous spine. I was slightly taken aback when I discovered that visiting Olympos, the island’s main village of interest, was going to require an hour’s drive from our apartment rental in Amoopi.

Stay where your main interests revolve. With young children among us, ours reliably surround the beach, shifting our focus on the southeastern bit of the island.

— AMOOPI SEASIDE VILLAGE —

Palm tree studded Amoopi is my pick for where to stay with young children, just a 10-minute drive from the conveniences of Pigadia port. Entirely touristy, but relaxed, picturesque, and complete with tavernas and mini-marts.

Dimitrios Fishermans Taverna in Amoopi Karpathos Greece — Dimitrios Fisherman’s Taverna set above the sparkling shores of Amoopi

Two sparkling bays sit a short walk from each other, with the cutest Cycladic church sitting prettily in blue and white on a headland outcrop. The beaches crowd out quickly. Which is why it’s a particularly good idea to live nearby (Onar beach house and Nymfes boutique resort occupy stellar spots) – snag a sunbed at 9-ish in the morning, and return after the kids have taken an hour to finish their eggs at home.

— PIGADIA PORT? —

The benefits of living in and island’s main town are always attractive for families. And while Pigadia port is convenient, it’s not the prettiest. The waterfront stretch and lane running parallel behind offers the usual charms of most Greek villages, but the built-up area behind leads into concrete volumes of ’80s pensions and a messy assembly of apartment blocks.

St George's Church in Pigadi, Karpathos Greece — Light a candle in St George’s Church in Pigadi, just behind the waterfront

Still, we spent many nights in Pigadia. Insider tips: If you’re dropping in for dinner and groceries, Ariadne supermarket in the center is open until 11 pm ( the usual time is 9 pm), so you can complete dinner, get your groceries and return home. Of the 3 pharmacies here, we found Taskirigou a little further up and past St George’s church the most well-equipped.

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH BAYS

Blustery winds play a big role in enjoying the beach in Karpathos (or not). The Aegean’s “meltemi” winds blow from the northwest in summer, turning the western shoreline into a fierce frenzy of wind-whipped waves.

The island’s eastern shores harbour calmer waters, with the meltemi blowing from land to sea. On this covetable stretch, coastal beauties cater to every beach style. In the north, pebbly, pine tree framed waters in exotic turquoise and deep blue hues. Moving south, Caribbean-like bays feature sandy and shallow waters that stretch out for great lengths. Our favourite pool-like enclaves are found here.

Damatria beach in Karpathos, Greece — The shallow waters of dazzling Damatria

Bring strong beach towel clips, and perhaps bath robes (which stay on better) instead of towels for little tots. In the peak of summer, sunbeds and shade are hard to secure. So be disciplined – make an early start, or prepare to visit late (around 5pm) as the crowds retire. Still can’t find a spot? Throw your towel down onto the beach with just a few more hours till sunset. Lastly, goggles or snorkel masks are worth their luggage space. From wide-eyed flounder skimming over a seabed dotted with hermit crabs to the long snouted cornetfish, Karpathos teems with abundant sea life.

OLYMPOS

Still in touch with the traditions of a forgotten time, Olympos is an encounter with life lost to modernity. Previously difficult to reach, access now is easy. An asphalt road offers a smooth but snaking cliffside drive that requires caution. There are hairpin turns throughout (not a fun ride for the car-sick prone), dual lanes merging into single lanes, and falling rocks which have knocked off parts of the road’s protective rails. Wild goat sightings get more frequent as you close in on Olympos, and never fail to excite the kids.

There were fewer tourists than I imagined when we arrived at 4 p.m. A hot time to be exploring any Greek village in July (even from these heights), but its narrow walkways are mostly shaded.

“Living museum”, as it is often described, is perhaps a slightly romanticised encapsulation. Still, Olympos is an especially charming Greek village. Cloaked in the sentimentality of things past, yiayia (Greek for grandmother) continues to crochet traditional headscarves for tourists to don. In a female-centered village (often described as a matriarchy) following an exodus of work-seeking men, she had to develop self-sufficiency on the isolated mountain top (without electricity until 1970) in the neighbouring fields of Avlonas. Fierce keepers of their Byzantine heritage, she must have so many stories to tell. For a more than superficial experience of the village and it’s traditions, take a guided visit with Ecotourism Karpathos.

Exploring Olympos Village in Karpathos Greece — Exploring village walkways and enjoying the bright colours of artisan handicrafts

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Rock climbing, trekking, windsurfing, boat trips to Saria and Kasos, Karpathos has lots to offer older children and teens wanting to try their hand at a variety of sports.

Chicken bay is the beginners windsurfing playground, where our younger girls splashed around in shallow, crystal waters, watching dad at his lessons every morning.

DINING WITH KIDS

After seven days of circling the island for a good meal, I’m going to put it out there – Karpathos has a lackluster dining scene. For us, that is. Menus tended to repeat a small selection of the same dishes, and execution was somehow always lacking – too much bahari (a local spice), too little salt… Just very unlike the luscious meals the Greek islands usually spoil us with in our journeys. Perhaps it’s because they mainly cater to tourists – you find few Greeks from Greece in these way-out parts. Or maybe we just continuously made a poor selection of choices. Here is our selection of better dining experiences with great ambience to make-up for flavour.

— LIFE OF ANGELS (PIGADI) —

The best spot in portside Pigadi for a meal is not right by the busy waterfront and its line of moussaka-touting tavernas, but one level above at Life of Angels. The sun-speckled yard with a bamboo thatched roof draped over with grape vines has a full view of the sea. For full cover from the afternoon sun, head through the indoor area and out into the covered balcony (with limited seating). It’s a pure experience with a history going back to the mid-1800’s. Owner Zoe’s mom makes the bread, uses organic ingredients sourced locally, sharing recipes passed down from her family’s kitchen. The roast chicken thigh with rice with tomato-flavoured rice saw the kids having their most successful meal on the island.

Life of Angels tavern in Pigadia, Karpathos Greece — With a history that goes back to the 1800s, Life of Angels has the best spot in Pigadi

— FINIKI MAMA CUISINE —

In the middle of the quiet family beach of Finiki, the eatery under a thatched roof of dried palm tree leaves is buzzing. Mama’s spin on traditional seafood favourites (fancy a hint of curry in the shrimp pasta?) refreshes tired taste buds. While there isn’t a lot of space for fidgety kids, there’s a beach right in front for a walk or run mid-meal.

Mamas Tavern, Finiki, Karpathos, Greece — Seafood by the sea at Mama’s

— UNDER THE TREE —

Under the Tree is perfectly placed with swathes of space opening up into the sea one level below. Dipped in gold, it’s magic at sunset. The menu is a simple, no-nonsense selection of grilled meat and seafood. The tables fill quickly from 7 pm (a few visitors were turned away without reservations), but the service is also brisk.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We visited in August, but Elias, our Airbnb host, mentions the best time to visit is in September. With its southerly location, like Crete, the sea is still warm in September and perhaps October. The sun is also less intense, the days, less windy, and you won’t have trouble finding sunbeds on the beach, or parking in Pigadia.

HOW TO GET THERE

Unless you’re happy to take a 14-hour ferry trip from Athens, it’s likely you’re flying into Karpathos. There are also international flights from Italy, Belgium and other European destinations. Otherwise, you can combine it with an itinerary including Crete and Rhodos – its only near neighbours.

Sep 02, 2023 0 comment

Ionian Islands

Kefalonia: The All-Rounded Greek Island For Kids of All Ages

by Lindsay Aug 13, 2022

written by Lindsay

With history, culture and adventure for everyone, cinematic Kefalonia is a low-key island offering next-level experiences.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🐝 🐢 🚙 ⛰️ 🏛️

Kefalonia is the Ionian girl with everything. Perfectly manicured, rolling hills of pine, palm, and cypress peppered with terracotta-roofed estates recall the charm of the Tuscan countryside. Naturally gifted, coastal jewels, striking caves, and lofty Mount Ainos count among its enviable physical assets. It even has historical and cultural depth. Paleolithic tools suggest habitation from the Old Stone Age, while Iron Age cemeteries indicate it was a flourishing Mycenaean center. There are also Archaean treasures, a scattering of Roman baths and villas, and more recent vestiges from Venetian and English rule.

*Iconnic Melissani is best visited at noon when sunlight directly falls through its cavity*

In spite of its wealth of attractions and fleeting moment of Hollywood fame, Kefalonia remains relatively under-the-radar. And while it is a seasoned tourist destination, it is not yet marred by extensive resort chains aside from those in southerly Skala. Instead, smart boutique villas sit alongside elegant massage spas and organic farm-to-fork tavernas. It also rarely feels crowded, unless you’re in hotspots like Platis Gialos beach, queuing to see Melissani, or roaming Fiskardo when a boat arrival has disgorged its passengers.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

We spent hours pouring over where to stay to avoid insufferable travel times in the car with kids. Up north with the island’s dramatic pin-up sights (including Myrtos beach and Assos village)? The western Paliki peninsula? Or its southwestern coast (starting from Lourdata towards the capital of Argostoli) with its sandy and child-friendly bays?

We settled for the last option in the little-known village of Vlahata. But ended up having morning coffees in neighbouring Lourdata so often we’d seek accommodation there the next time around.

*Lourdata beach on calm mornings shows off surreal shades of mystic grey sand and aquamarine*

Lourdata is a seaside village with a sprinkling of boutique hotels, tavernas, and cafes. There’s significant benefit in staying steps from the sea, especially when a scorching summer rules out swimming from 11am to 4pm. And the beach at Lourdata is a lovely one. Particularly in the mornings when calm, aquamarine waters shimmer as they dapple gently over mystic grey sand.

There are many other options, of course. And while we enjoy spontaneity in our escapes, this is an island that benefits from thorough research and a planned itinerary before deciding on where to stay.

THE BEACH SCENE

Kefalonia’s coastal attractions are varied and impressive. More enticing is the fact that the island’s famous beaches with dramatic scenery are not out-of-reach for families. Myrtos is easily accessible by car, and organised with sunbeds and parasols. Yet, exposed to strong winds (always a good thing to check before beach visits), feisty waves and an abruptly dropping seabed can hamper young swimmers. Petani has a similar set-up, but is better organised with two tavernas, a cafe-bar, and watersports to offer.

The sandy southwest coast is so crammed with child-friendly coves, you might need more than a week to exhaust the options. The farther south you head (towards Mounda and Kamina), the higher your chances of finding nesting grounds where caretta turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Boxed off to protect the endangered species, they only hatch at night, but it’s an exciting sight, nonetheless.

*Turtle nesting spots (like this on Ai Helis beach) are marked out and protected by conservation groups like Wildlife Sense*

And then there’s Xi – a strange looking place with orange sand backed by white clay cliffs. Beach-goers in search of a spa treat slather themselves in its therapeutic clay soil. It also has a family draw, with shallow shores and an organised (i.e. with sunbeds and parasols) section. We round up our family favourites here.

OFF-BEACH ATTRACTIONS

Beyond the beach, Kefalonia’s list of attractions reads like a veritable theme park offering: In Sami are the famed caves of Melissani and Dogarati you can donkey trek to. Take a jeep safari adventure or hike up to Mount Ainos’ summit for a view from the Ionian’s highest peak. Dias in the southwest conducts apiary tours where you can don a suit and hold a frame of live bees. Got binoculars? Go bird spotting in the Livadi marshlands. Not to forget castle explorations at the Venetian fortification in Assos and Saint George’s castle outside Argostoli. There’s even zooland – a mini zoo and Odyssey-themed park in one.

The waterfront promenade at Argostoli.

Thankfully for us, small children get excited about simple things. Like fishermen reeling in their catch from the world’s largest oversea stone bridge in Argostoli. Or watching little crabs scuttle up its bridge walls. As we strolled the bridge, my eyes fixated on the waters below in search of carettas wandering the lagoon. A determined mother, in spite of missing the early morning sweet spot when they gather for treats from fishing boats. And I did spot one, for a precious three seconds. It disappeared long before the kids caught onto why I waved fanatically at them from a short distance.

Flattened by the Ionian earthquake in 1953, Argostoli was rebuilt as a large, modern town. Pedestrian-only Lithostroto one parallel behind the waterfront promenade is where the main shopping happens. Walk its length northwards and you will reach Platia Vallianou – a large square bordered by cafés where you can enjoy a latte while the kids have a run.

*Fiskardo is best explored in the evening, when the summer sun is less intense and the boat arrivals have ceased*

For an experience of traditional Greek village beauty, Fiskardo and Assos up north (an hour’s drive from Argostoli) are the most attractive on the island. Full of pastel prettiness and Venetian charm, bustling Fiskardo is the buzzier and more fashionable of the two. A historic harbour that escaped the earthquake of 1953, tourist-geared updates have tinged it with cosmopolitan chic. And while Assos was not so lucky, French benefactors, in love with the village, helped with restoration efforts after the earthquake. Take a hot hike up to the castle, then cool off in the village beach cove after.

DINING WITH KIDS

The right environment is nearly as important as what we are eating when we dine out with kids. Give us wide-open spaces, softly-padded grounds, a failsafe pasta menu entry, and clean toilets, and dining happiness is made. Here are our top such finds on the island.

— DROSOS (PORTO ATHERAS BEACH) —

Set in secluded Porto Atheras, this humble taverna with the beach to itself is all we love about Greek island dining. Honest, simple, friendly (without being overly friendly), and where the full, unadulterated flavours of basic ingredients are artfully drawn out. And then there’s the garden outside. So spacious, it even inspired an American dad to throw a yoga rug on the grass for an acrobatic show performed alongside his two children, while members of their larger group circled around. Everyone feels free here.

— PSARAGATOS (AMMES BEACH) —

Perched solitarily above Ammes beach, I was drawn to Psaragatos and its envious vistas on sighting it as we drove by. Surrounded by lush gardens adorned with white pottery, parasol-shaded tables sit poised for sunset. While seafood is the highlight, the one meat dish we kept stealing spoons from was the Bekri Meze, where succulent chunks of flavoursome pork tenderloin heaps over a mound of rice.

— ALEXANDROS (DIVARATA, CLOSE TO MYRTOS) —

If you’re exploring the island’s northern highlights, Alexandros might be off a main road, but feels far removed from its busyness on its valley-facing balcony. Relaxed, ambient and abundantly spacious, a menu of traditional favourites presents heart-warming fare at reasonable prices.

HOW TO GET THERE

With an international airport outside Argostoli, Kefalonia is within easy reach. If you’re coming from the mainland, ferry ports connect the island to Patras and Kyllini. Island hopping? There are also direct crossings to Lefkada, Ithaca, Zakynthos, Corfu, and other Ionian islands.

Aug 13, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

The Best Family-Friendly Beaches in Kefalonia

by Lindsay Aug 11, 2022

written by Lindsay

Boasting its own share of insta-famous pinup beaches, Kefalonia is blessed. They’re not entirely out of reach for families either. With 254 kilometers of coastline, to where should you head after heroically packing the kids and their floats into the car? In our search for shores both fabulous and friendly, we share our favourite bits of sand and sea when in the company of first swimmers.

PETANI

Best for: drama, waves included.

If you’re pining for Myrtos-like spectacle, but hoping for something a little friendlier (the waves at Myrtos can be fiesty), Petani is perfect. To start with, there’s the “sand” – of a special grain-size that is more of a cross between pebbles and sand. It’s the best type of sand, we think – neither painful for feet, nor wanting to stick all over wet bodies. Then, there’s the boat rental shack where we rented shaded pedal boats for €25 an hour – a welcome opportunity to escape the searing sun while exploring rockscapes between dips in secret corners. The only downside of Petani for little ones is that the seabed gets deep a little too quickly, and the water, which can be wavy. Check the wind direction on an app like Windy for calm days. Otherwise, the sheltered beach at Port Atheras is a 25-minute drive away as a backup destination. “Organised” (as they say in Greece) with sunbeds and parasols, Petani comes complete with two taverns on Petani and a bar. It’s also easy for little legs to get to, with parking located directly behind.

PORT ATHERAS

Best for: when food is as much a priority as swimming. Or on especially wavy Petani days.

Shallow, sheltered, calm, and perfect for tots, this is a quintessential family beach. Rainbow unicorns drift in the sparkling shallow, while a scattering of families picnic under their umbrellas. Unorganised, you will have to make your own arrangements for shade, or take a dip after a late lunch at Drosos seafood tavern just behind. It’s the best part of the beach, serving the most delicious meal we had on the trip. Gialos taverna higher up overlooking the bay is an alternative dining option.

MEGALI AMMOS

Best for: late afternoons and sunsets, and as an alternative to Platis Gialos.

A quiet stretch of golden sand with clear and shallow waters, surfer-cool Tortuga bar-shack stands nonchalantly at its entrance to greet arrivals. Draped with curtains that add a cozy hint of boho softness to its white and black set, they mix a good welcome cocktail. A small sprawl of sunbeds huddle around the bar, but the beach is mostly free. Next to the airport, watch planes land and take off periodically. Parking is not difficult to find along the road right behind.

PLATIS GIALOS

Best for: clear blue waters and the best sandy shore, but only in low season.

Popular Platis Gialos appeals with the magnetic draw of fine white sand and clear blue waters. But it’s a little too popular. The consolation – resident bar Costa Costa is surprising tasteful and well-organised with cleaner-than-usual toilets and showers. Generously spaced out sunbeds tuck under straw umbrellas, and upbeat, but still relaxing music plays gently in the background. At € 25 per pair (prices vary depending on the time of the season), it’s more expensive than on most other parts of the island. There’s a small furniture free zone for your own set-up if you’ve come equipped. Parking is happily shaded under a little forest of pine-trees on the uphill climb from the beach.

AGIOS THOMAS

Best for: a sparkling swim in a idyllic cove (or just coffee by the sea)

A tiny arc of pearly white sand lapped over by pristine turquoise waters, Agios Thomas is postcard-perfect. In its smallness, it’s unorganised. It does, however, have the benefits of a tavern (Galina offers a small but commendable menu) and Tratamento cafe-restaurant (more the former) overlooking its waters. A hotspot in a quiet village that gets crowded quickly, and where parking gets interesting on the narrow way down to the beach, it’s best visited in low season or early in the morning.

LOURDATA

Best for: For early morning swims and seaside accommodation

A little seaside village gaining upscale attention, Lourdata has an ethereal beauty when its waters are calm. When we visited in the late afternoon and evening as the wind picked up, it was unimpressive. But on a quiet, still morning, this is heaven. A good option if you’re looking for somewhere where the village and beach are the same thing. With tavernas and cafes backing the beach and parking right behind, it’s also especially convenient.

Aug 11, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Heavenly Holiday or Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021

written by Lindsay

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing.

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But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to find precious breathing corners on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees. We share them here.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – a stunning shoreline. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches in a country where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach,entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs. Not that I don’t appreciate the comforts that parasols and sunbeds provide. Especially as a young family with enough on our hands without umbrellas and chairs to think of. But when an entire beach is covered in beds, there is a feeling of suffocation.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece — *While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.*

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In upscale Paraga, that’s €80 of burgers and club sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family frequenting the beach daily, the price tag is a hefty one for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from north Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats:

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space on Elia, in spite of a sea of parasols. A slip of sand dividing the main from the nudist section allows free campers to throw their towels down. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in Maldivian shades of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is located right behind.

— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Taking center stage is Lohan beach house, as subdued as its namesake low-key status after infamy in her younger, wilder years. With widely spaced-out sunbeds and a relaxing palette of-neutral toned interiors, this was an unexpected haven of contemporary cool.

— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well.

So after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed to revisiting the hangouts of our youth where we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach, in spite of the reputations of its resident beach clubs (Paradise and Super Paradise) on the islands most famous beach coves. Tropicana was our first stop on the stretch for no particular reason. And suggesting a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend, we settled here. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m. as the late-starters stream in. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, it starts at a bearable volume level with the day, but grows louder with the setting sun.

*Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.*

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

*An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.*

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find local artisan Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we escaped to the waterfront one street away for a coffee. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot) or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece — *Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys.

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

*White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.*

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos sits a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a place worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails leading to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. Instead of soul-warming dishes distilled from the recipes of successive generations of Greek yiayias (Grandmas), minute portions of deconstructed fare were presented by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or stopping by to break the onward journey to another island. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the enduring magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures still hover over 20°C. Spring in Greece is also always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Avoid July and August at all costs. And while winter travel is possible, take note that many businesses start to close in late October.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. Refurbished in 2021, their Cycladic-cool airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two-and-a-half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

FIND A FERRY TO MYKONOS

Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Mykonos from Pireaus port.

Sep 21, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

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Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also well balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. Not particularly enchanting at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, bits of its ancient history hideout within walkways. Settle at Symposium for coffee and crepe within its tangle of streets. On a raised platform overhung by a bougainvillea canopy, its a lovely stop from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a warm glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the quiet inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for emerging artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for a souvenir like no other.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

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Greece is replete with alluring isles. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system will take you from town to its main beach attractions.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d stay clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

*Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA —

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

— chora (main town)? —

The Greek Chora is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Not quite for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but appealing with the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato-based dishes on repeat. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a carving of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter.Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades house interesting finds. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and friends back home. Fill the vessel-flute with water and blow to produce a delightful bird-like warble, still pleasant on the ears even after constant repetition.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Naxos chora — *The west-facing Chora at sunset*.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee the kids scamper at a distance as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Such special finds in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground or take a nature walk as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites of seafood and more.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from Paradiso’s beachfront tables dispels any a frazzled nerve. A taverna that’s also a mageireio, this is a type of eatery that is very useful for parents to know when in Greece. Serving ready-made, home-cooked style dishes, it’s perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds. Fussy eaters can survey the spread of stews and oven-baked meals on a buffet-like display before making their selection. There’s also the option to pack something to-go (without waiting) if its been that kind of day.

Paradiso Restaurant in Naxos — Beachside dining

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, while popular, Naxos doesn’t feel unbearably busy in general in managing to spread out the crowds, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would seek accommodation in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — *Palaios – settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.*

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *The sand kitchen of Sirocco.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

FIND A FERRY TO CHANIA

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules from Pireaus (Athens) to Chania Port.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

by Lindsay Dec 29, 2019

written by Lindsay

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is proof of this. For out of the post-war housing crisis of the impoverished 1950s, the antiparochi system of service and asset exchange between construction worker and landowner gave rise to the city’s sprawl of concrete volumes, far removed from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past.

Inventive, charismatic, and still packed with exciting landmarks, it’s worth a 2 to 3-day stopover if it still holds appeal for you. The city is also spiffing up: ex-Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis introduced continuing efforts to remove graffiti, create pocket parks in the concrete sprawl, and a new wave of once derelict buildings are getting impressive makeovers.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options downtown include:

Ergon Houses – a nature-inspired, contemporary-chic sanctuary in the heart of town, new entrants Ergon House (23 Mitropoleos) and Ergon Bakehouse (9 Patroou) have extra large family rooms designed for parties of 4 and 5.
Colors Hotel – Splashed in cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven. Our only gripe – it’s located in Omonoia with a slightly seedy reputation in an unpretty part of town.
Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is just one block from the main shopping street of Ermou. Still too much for little legs? Retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing. Their triple rooms accommodate an accompanying child on a sofa bed, while Superior Connecting Rooms are an option for more.
Grand Bretagne – The traditional choice of luxury, and also with a rooftop pool, this iconic fixture at the corner of Syntagma Square charms with old-world grandeur. A skip away from Parliament, watch the changing of the Presidential Guards (Evzones or Tsoliades) ceremony on Sunday at 11am. If you miss Sunday’s grand event, a “routine change” takes place every hour, every day. Rollaway beds and connecting rooms are available on request.
AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool, but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) suited for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For longer stays demanding more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may suit you better. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. And if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a single visit to the Acropolis, consider venturing out to the southern coast for a more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care a precious few hours to explore the city unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days:

Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
A 10-minute walk from the main entrance of the National Gardens is the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology. Compact, interactive, and staffed with knowledgeable guides, adults and older children alike will leave suitably educated and entertained.
The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants that don’t spill out into a street. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. There’s a recently renovated playground in the shadow of the Acropolis.
Head south to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s more to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in seeking cool relief in the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. Apart from a shaded outdoor playground, XPLORE inside is an impressive kids entertainment center with a small aquarium, adventure arena, and science discovery zone.

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and smart, sit inside or out.
To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to. Another favourite in the area is Scholarchio, serving traditional plates since 1935. It’s tight inside, so bring crayons.
Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Using fresh milk from the cows of northen Greece, Kokkoin churns out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and vegan.
Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades dresses up the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings.

AND SIPS

The “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand (still a thing in parts of Greece) in Monastiraki Square next to Moustakas toy shop.
Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not already covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi or an eSIM, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone (has a stand at the airport at the luggage collection area) or Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected. Cosmote often launches unlimited data plans in summer for just €10 a month.
Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Note: most close on Sundays. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city, and may be open on Sunday (check ahead). If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
Pharmacies – In almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 9am to 8pm, and close on Sundays. Out of town, some close in the afternoon from 2pm to 5:30 pm.
Beachwear and swimming gear (for adults) – Oysho is a favourite, while Calzedonia carries a men’s selection. For a range of high-end swimwear including local designers, head to Attica departmental store.
Baby clothing, feeding and kids travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.

Dec 29, 2019 0 comment

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