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Islands with Airports

While every inhabited Greek island is served by ferries, some have airports. Popular islands like Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodos and Crete will even have direct connections to select European cities.

A complete list of international and domestic airports may be found in the Hellenic Civil Aviation Authority’s site here.

Destinations

Island Wilderness and Wildlings – A Guide to Karpathos with Kids

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Kyria Panagia Beach in Karpathos, Greece

Adrift off the southwestern reaches of Greece, Karpathos is remote. With a view towards North Africa in the distant horizon, what does this far-flung and little-known island have to offer? 

The iridescent colours of its Instagram beach images first lured us. Along with a reputation for windsurfing, and romantic stories of mountain villages akin to living museums untouched by time. In spite of its impressive roster of attractions, you will still hear little of Karpathos. But as steadily as the asphalt road to Olympus completed in the 1970s, luxe villas are beginning a creep from its crystalline shoreline. 

After exiting the airport, continuous blasts of wind remind us that we have arrived in wilderness.  This is what makes the island the best windsurfing spot in Greece. It’s also why you will be a little hard-pressed to find child-friendly swimming on the island. At the same time, as we zig-zag through the craggy rockscapes of lofty mountains and azure seas below, the beauty of this land is immediately captivating. Combined with some well-researched choices, Karpathos can be a beautiful and easy adventure with kids. 

Trees in Karpathos
So windy on Karpathos its trees grow sideways

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS 

While the island is not huge, travel times are made longer by winding roads through its mountainous spine. I was slightly taken aback when I discovered that visiting Olympos, the island’s main village of interest, was going to require an hour’s drive from our apartment rental in Amoopi. 

Stay where your main interests revolve. With young children among us, ours reliably surround the beach, shifting our focus on the southeastern bit of the island.

— AMOOPI SEASIDE VILLAGE —

Palm tree studded Amoopi is my pick for where to stay with young children, just a 10-minute drive from the conveniences of Pigadia port. Entirely touristy, but relaxed, picturesque, and complete with tavernas and mini-marts. 

Dimitrios Fishermans Taverna in Amoopi Karpathos Greece
Dimitrios Fisherman’s Taverna set above the sparkling shores of Amoopi

Two sparkling bays sit a short walk from each other, with the cutest Cycladic church sitting prettily in blue and white on a headland outcrop. The beaches crowd out quickly.  Which is why it’s a particularly good idea to live nearby (Onar beach house and Nymfes boutique resort occupy stellar spots) – snag a sunbed at 9-ish in the morning, and return after the kids have taken an hour to finish their eggs at home.

— PIGADIA PORT? —

The benefits of living in and island’s main town are always attractive for families. And while Pigadia port is convenient, it’s not the prettiest. The waterfront stretch and lane running parallel behind offers the usual charms of most Greek villages, but the built-up area behind leads into concrete volumes of ’80s pensions and a messy assembly of apartment blocks.

St George's Church in Pigadi, Karpathos Greece
Light a candle in St George’s Church in Pigadi, just behind the waterfront

Still, we spent many nights in Pigadia. Insider tips:  If you’re dropping in for dinner and groceries, Ariadne supermarket in the center is open until 11 pm ( the usual time is 9 pm), so you can complete dinner, get your groceries and return home. Of the 3 pharmacies here, we found Taskirigou a little further up and past St George’s church the most well-equipped.  

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH BAYS

Blustery winds play a big role in enjoying the beach in Karpathos (or not). The Aegean’s “meltemi” winds blow from the northwest in summer, turning the western shoreline into a fierce frenzy of wind-whipped waves. 

The island’s eastern shores harbour calmer waters, with the meltemi blowing from land to sea. On this covetable stretch, coastal beauties cater to every beach style. In the north, pebbly, pine tree framed waters in exotic turquoise and deep blue hues. Moving south, Caribbean-like bays feature sandy and shallow waters that stretch out for great lengths. Our favourite pool-like enclaves are found here. 

Damatria beach in Karpathos, Greece
The shallow waters of dazzling Damatria

Bring strong beach towel clips, and perhaps bath robes (which stay on better) instead of towels for little tots. In the peak of summer, sunbeds and shade are hard to secure. So be disciplined – make an early start, or prepare to visit late (around 5pm) as the crowds retire. Still can’t find a spot? Throw your towel down onto the beach with just a few more hours till sunset. Lastly, goggles or snorkel masks are worth their luggage space. From wide-eyed flounder skimming over a seabed dotted with hermit crabs to the long snouted cornetfish, Karpathos teems with abundant sea life.

OLYMPOS 

Still in touch with the traditions of a forgotten time, Olympos is an encounter with life lost to modernity. Previously difficult to reach, access now is easy. An asphalt road offers a smooth but snaking cliffside drive that requires caution. There are hairpin turns throughout (not a fun ride for the car-sick prone), dual lanes merging into single lanes, and falling rocks which have knocked off parts of the road’s protective rails. Wild goat sightings get more frequent as you close in on Olympos, and never fail to excite the kids. 

Olympos has kept its heritage and traditions better than most other Greek villages

There were fewer tourists than I imagined when we arrived at 4 p.m. A hot time to be exploring any Greek village in July (even from these heights), but its narrow walkways are mostly shaded.  

“Living museum”, as it is often described, is perhaps a slightly romanticised encapsulation. Still, Olympos is an especially charming Greek village. Cloaked in the sentimentality of things past, yiayia (Greek for grandmother) continues to crochet traditional headscarves for tourists to don. In a female-centered village (often described as a matriarchy) following an exodus of work-seeking men, she had to develop self-sufficiency on the isolated mountain top (without electricity until 1970) in the neighbouring fields of Avlonas. Fierce keepers of their Byzantine heritage, she must have so many stories to tell. For a more than superficial experience of the village and it’s traditions, take a guided visit with Ecotourism Karpathos.

Exploring Olympos Village in Karpathos Greece
Exploring village walkways and enjoying the bright colours of artisan handicrafts

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 

Rock climbing, trekking, windsurfing, boat trips to Saria and Kasos, Karpathos has lots to offer older children and teens wanting to try their hand at a variety of sports. 

Chicken bay is the beginners windsurfing playground, where our younger girls splashed around in shallow, crystal waters, watching dad at his lessons every morning.

DINING WITH KIDS

After seven days of circling the island for a good meal, I’m going to put it out there – Karpathos has a lackluster dining scene. For us, that is. Menus tended to repeat a small selection of the same dishes, and execution was somehow always lacking – too much bahari (a local spice), too little salt… Just very unlike the luscious meals the Greek islands usually spoil us with in our journeys. Perhaps it’s because they mainly cater to tourists – you find few Greeks from Greece in these way-out parts. Or maybe we just continuously made a poor selection of choices. Here is our selection of better dining experiences with great ambience to make-up for flavour.

— LIFE OF ANGELS (PIGADI) —

The best spot in portside Pigadi for a meal is not right by the busy waterfront and its line of moussaka-touting tavernas, but one level above at Life of Angels. The sun-speckled yard with a bamboo thatched roof draped over with grape vines has a full view of the sea. For full cover from the afternoon sun, head through the indoor area and out into the covered balcony (with limited seating). It’s a pure experience with a history going back to the mid-1800’s. Owner Zoe’s mom makes the bread, uses organic ingredients sourced locally, sharing recipes passed down from her family’s kitchen. The roast chicken thigh with rice with tomato-flavoured rice saw the kids having their most successful meal on the island.

Life of Angels tavern in Pigadia, Karpathos Greece
With a history that goes back to the 1800s, Life of Angels has the best spot in Pigadi

— FINIKI MAMA CUISINE —

In the middle of the quiet family beach of Finiki, the eatery under a thatched roof of dried palm tree leaves is buzzing. Mama’s spin on traditional seafood favourites (fancy a hint of curry in the shrimp pasta?) refreshes tired taste buds. While there isn’t a lot of space for fidgety kids, there’s a beach right in front for a walk or run mid-meal. 

Mamas Tavern, Finiki, Karpathos, Greece
Seafood by the sea at Mama’s

— UNDER THE TREE —

Under the Tree is perfectly placed with swathes of space opening up into the sea one level below. Dipped in gold, it’s magic at sunset. The menu is a simple, no-nonsense selection of grilled meat and seafood. The tables fill quickly from 7 pm (a few visitors were turned away without reservations), but the service is also brisk.

Under the Tree Tavern in Karpathos, Greece

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We visited in August, but Elias, our Airbnb host, mentions the best time to visit is in September. With its southerly location, like Crete, the sea is still warm in September and perhaps October. The sun is also less intense, the days, less windy, and you won’t have trouble finding sunbeds on the beach, or parking in Pigadia. 

HOW TO GET THERE

Unless you’re happy to take a 14-hour ferry trip from Athens, it’s likely you’re flying into Karpathos. There are also international flights from Italy, Belgium and other European destinations. Otherwise, you can combine it with an itinerary including Crete and Rhodos – its only near neighbours. 

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Ionian Islands

Kefalonia: The All-Rounded Greek Island  For Kids of All Ages

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Assos village in Kefalonia

With history, culture and adventure for everyone, cinematic Kefalonia is a low-key island offering next-level experiences.

Kefalonia is the Ionian girl with everything. Beautifully manicured, rolling hills of pine, palm, and cypress peppered with terracotta-roofed estates recalls the charm of the Tuscan countryside. Naturally gifted, coastal jewels, striking caves, and lofty Mount Ainos count as enviable physical assets. It even has historical and cultural depth. Steeped in myth, its land is scattered with a spectrum of ruins. Paleolithic tools suggest habitation from the Old Stone Age, while Iron Age cemeteries indicate it was a flourishing Mycenaean center. There are also Archaean treasures, a scattering of Roman baths and villas, and more recent vestiges from Venetian and English rule.

Iconnic Melissani is best visited at noon when sunlight directly falls through its cavity

In spite of its wealth of attractions and fleeting moment of Hollywood fame, Kefalonia remains relatively under-the-radar. While a seasoned tourist destination, it is not yet marred by extensive resort chains aside from those in southerly Skala. Instead, smart boutique villas sit alongside elegant massage spas and organic farm-to-fork tavernas. It also rarely feels crowded, unless you’re in hotspots like Platis Gialos beach, queuing to see Melissani, or roaming Fiskardo when a boat arrival has disgorged its passengers.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

We spent hours pouring over where to stay to avoid insufferable travel times in the car with kids. Up north with the island’s dramatic pin-up sights (including Myrtos beach and Assos village)? The western Paliki peninsula? Or its southwestern coast (starting from Lourdata towards the capital of Argostoli) with its sandy and child-friendly bays?

Perhaps quite predictably, we settled for the last option, in the little-known village of Vlahata. Yet ended up having morning coffees in neighbouring Lourdata so often we’d seek accommodation there the next time around.

Lourdata beach on calm mornings shows off surreal shades of mystic grey sand and aquamarine

Lourdata is a seaside village with a drizzle of boutique hotels, tavernas, and cafes. There’s significant benefit in staying steps from the sea, especially when scorching summer months rule out swimming from 11am to 4pm. And the beach at Lourdata is a lovely one. Particularly in the mornings when its aquamarine waters are calm, sparkling as they dapple over mystic grey sand.

There are many other options, of course. And while we enjoy spontaneity in our escapes, this is an island that benefits from thorough research and a planned itinerary before deciding on where to stay.

THE BEACH SCENE 

Kefalonia’s coastal attractions are varied and impressive. More enticing is the fact that the island’s famous beaches with dramatic scenery are not out-of-reach for families. Myrtos is easily accessible by car, and organised with sunbeds and parasols. Yet, exposed to strong winds (always a good thing to check before beach visits), feisty waves and an abruptly dropping seabed can hamper young swimmers. Petani has a similar set-up, but is better organised with two tavernas, a bar, and watersports to offer.

Astonishing Myrtos

On the sandy southwest coast, so plentiful are the child-friendly coves to choose from, we needed more than a week to exhaust the options. The farther south you head (towards Mounda and Kamina), the higher your chances of finding nesting grounds where caretta turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Boxed off to protect the endangered species, they only hatch at night, but it’s an exciting sight, nonetheless.

Turtle nesting spots on Ai Helis beach, marked out and protected by conservation groups like Wildlife Sense

And then there’s Xi – a strange looking place with orange sand backed by white clay cliffs. Beach-goers in search of a spa treat slather themselves in its therapeutic clay soil. It also has a family draw, with shallow shores and an organised (i.e. with sunbeds and parasols) section. We round up our family favourites here. 

OFF-BEACH ATTRACTIONS

Beyond the beach, Kefalonia’s list of attractions reads like a veritable theme park offering: In Sami are the famed caves of Melissani and Dogarati you can donkey trek to. Take a jeep safari adventure or hike up to Mount Ainos’ summit for a view from the Ionian’s highest peak. Dias in the southwest conducts apiary tours where you can don a suit and hold a frame of live bees. Got binoculars? Go bird spotting in the Livadi marshlands. Not to forget castle explorations at the Venetian fortification in Assos and Saint George’s castle outside Argostoli. There’s even zooland – a mini zoo and Odyssey-themed park in one.

  • Waterfront Promenade at Argostoli
    The waterfront promenade at Argostoli.

Thankfully for us, small children get easily excited about simple things. Like watching fishermen reel in their catch on the world’s largest oversea stone bridge in Argostoli. We went in search of the carettas that wander the lagoon, staring intensely into its waters as we walked the bridge. I spotted one for a precious three seconds. But of course, it disappeared long before the kids could catch onto why I was waving fanatically at them. Instead, they found joy in watching little crabs crawl up the bridge walls. You might have better luck if you rise early enough to watch them gather around the fishermen’s boat that dock alongside the promenade, lured by free food.

Flattened by the Ionian earthquake in 1953, Argostoli was rebuilt as a large, modern town. Pedestrian-only Lithostroto one parallel behind the waterfront promenade is where the main shopping happens. Walk its length northwards and you will reach Platia Vallianou – a large square bordered by cafés where you can enjoy a latte while the kids have a run.

Fiskardo is best explored in the evening, when the summer sun is less intense and the boat arrivals have ceased

For an experience of traditional Greek village beauty, Fiskardo and Assos up north (an hour’s drive from Argostoli) are the most attractive on the island. Full of pastel prettiness and Venetian charm, bustling Fiskardo is the buzzier and more fashionable of the two. A historic harbour that escaped the earthquake of 1953, tourist-geared updates have tinged it with cosmopolitan chic. And while Assos was not so lucky, French benefactors, in love with the village, helped with restoration efforts after the earthquake. Take a hot hike up to the castle, then cool off in the village beach cove after.

DINING WITH KIDS 

The right environment is nearly as important as what we are eating when we dine out with kids. Give us wide-open spaces, softly-padded grounds, a failsafe pasta menu entry, and clean toilets, and dining happiness is made. Here are our top such finds on the island. 

— DROSOS (PORTO ATHERAS BEACH) —

Set in secluded Porto Atheras, this humble taverna with the beach to itself is all we love about Greek island dining. Honest, simple, friendly (without being overly friendly), and where the full, unadulterated flavours of basic ingredients are artfully drawn out. And then there’s the garden outside. So spacious, it even inspired an American dad to throw a yoga rug on the grass for an acrobatic show performed alongside his two children, while members of their larger group circled around. Everyone feels free here.

— PSARAGATOS (AMMES BEACH) —

Perched solitarily above Ammes beach, I was drawn to Psaragatos and its envious vistas as we drove by. Surrounded by lush gardens artfully adorned with white pottery, parasol-shaded tables sit poised for sunset.  While seafood is the highlight, the one dish we kept stealing spoons from was the Bekri Meze – succulent chunks of flavoursome pork tenderloin served over rice. 

— ALEXANDROS (DIVARATA, CLOSE TO MYRTOS) —

If you’re exploring the island’s northern highlights, Alexandros might be off a main road, but feels far removed from its busyness on its valley-facing balcony. Relaxed, ambient and abundantly spacious, a menu of traditional favourites presents heart-warming fare at reasonable prices.

HOW TO GET THERE

With an international airport outside Argostoli, Kefalonia is within easy reach. If you’re coming from the mainland, ferry ports connect the island to Patras and Kyllini. Island hopping? There are also direct crossings to Lefkada, Ithaca, Zakynthos, Corfu, and other Ionian islands.

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Destinations

The Best Family-Friendly Beaches in Kefalonia

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Petani beach

Boasting its own share of insta-famous pinup beaches, Kefalonia is blessed. They’re not entirely out of reach for families either. With 254 kilometers of coastline, to where should you head after heroically packing the kids and their floats into the car? In our search for shores both fabulous and friendly, we share our favourite bits of sand and sea when in the company of first swimmers.

PETANI

Best for: drama, waves included.

If you’re pining for Myrtos-like spectacle, but hoping for something a little friendlier (the waves at Myrtos can be fiesty), Petani is perfect. To start with, there’s the “sand” – of a special grain-size that is more of a cross between pebbles and sand. It’s the best type of sand, we think – neither painful for feet, nor wanting to stick all over wet bodies. Then, there’s the boat rental shack where we rented shaded pedal boats for €25 an hour – a welcome opportunity to escape the searing sun while exploring rockscapes between dips in secret corners. The only downside of Petani for little ones is that the seabed gets deep a little too quickly, and the water, which can be wavy. Check the wind direction on an app like Windy for calm days. Otherwise, the sheltered beach at Port Atheras is a 25-minute drive away as a backup destination. “Organised” (as they say in Greece) with sunbeds and parasols, Petani comes complete with two taverns on Petani and a bar. It’s also easy for little legs to get to, with parking located directly behind.

PORT ATHERAS

Best for: when food is as much a priority as swimming. Or on especially wavy Petani days.

Shallow, sheltered, calm, and perfect for tots, this is a quintessential family beach. Rainbow unicorns drift in the sparkling shallow, while a scattering of families picnic under their umbrellas. Unorganised, you will have to make your own arrangements for shade, or take a dip after a late lunch at Drosos seafood tavern just behind. It’s the best part of the beach, serving the most delicious meal we had on the trip. Gialos taverna higher up overlooking the bay is an alternative dining option.

MEGALI AMMOS

Best for: late afternoons and sunsets, and as an alternative to Platis Gialos.

A quiet stretch of golden sand with clear and shallow waters, surfer-cool Tortuga bar-shack stands nonchalantly at its entrance to greet arrivals. Draped with curtains that add a cozy hint of boho softness to its white and black set, they mix a good welcome cocktail. A small sprawl of sunbeds huddle around the bar, but the beach is mostly free. Next to the airport, watch planes land and take off periodically. Parking is not difficult to find along the road right behind.

PLATIS GIALOS

Best for: clear blue waters and the best sandy shore, but only in low season.

Popular Platis Gialos appeals with the magnetic draw of fine white sand and clear blue waters. But it’s a little too popular. The consolation – resident bar Costa Costa is surprising tasteful and well-organised with cleaner-than-usual toilets and showers. Generously spaced out sunbeds tuck under straw umbrellas, and upbeat, but still relaxing music plays gently in the background. At € 25 per pair (prices vary depending on the time of the season), it’s more expensive than on most other parts of the island. There’s a small furniture free zone for your own set-up if you’ve come equipped. Parking is happily shaded under a little forest of pine-trees on the uphill climb from the beach.

AGIOS THOMAS

Best for: a sparkling swim in a idyllic cove (or just coffee by the sea)

A tiny arc of pearly white sand lapped over by pristine turquoise waters, Agios Thomas is postcard-perfect. In its smallness, it’s unorganised. It does, however, have the benefits of a tavern (Galina offers a small but commendable menu) and Tratamento cafe-restaurant (more the former) overlooking its waters. A hotspot in a quiet village that gets crowded quickly, and where parking gets interesting on the narrow way down to the beach, it’s best visited in low season or early in the morning. 

LOURDATA

Best for: For early morning swims and seaside accommodation

A little seaside village gaining upscale attention, Lourdata has an ethereal beauty when its waters are calm. When we visited in the late afternoon and evening as the wind picked up, it was unimpressive. But on a quiet, still morning, this is heaven. A good option if you’re looking for somewhere where the village and beach are the same thing. With tavernas and cafes backing the beach and parking right behind, it’s also especially convenient.

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Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Holiday in Heaven or a Headache?

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Scorpios Mykonos

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing. 

But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to carve out your own little paradise on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – stunning beaches. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs. Not that I don’t appreciate the comforts that parasols and sunbeds provide. Especially as a young family with enough on our hands besides umbrellas and chairs to heave. But when an entire beach is covered in beds, there is a feeling of suffocation.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece
While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In Paraga, this is €80 of burgers and sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family that frequents the beach daily, the price tag gets pretty prohibitive for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from northern Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats: 

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space in spite of a sea of parasols. A patch of sand dividing the main from the nudist section is available for free campers. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in the perfect shade of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is conveniently located right behind.  

Elia Beach Mykonos
Elia beach – after the rock outcrop at the end of the first beach, you will find the nudist section on the next.
— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Infamous party girl Lindsay Lohan’s beach club takes center stage. It was surprisingly relaxed when we visited in the early afternoon, with widely spaced-out sunbeds.

The sparkling, shallow waters of Kato Livadi.
— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well. 

So how did we end up in Tropicana? Paradise and Super Paradise happened to be in the area where we knew we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach. We might have to deal with the madness of the island’s most famed party beach clubs, but after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed. 

Tropicana was our first stop for no particular reason. It also happened to be a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend. So we parked ourselves here for the afternoon. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m.. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, the music gets louder as the sun sets – all was still bearable as it approached the time to put babies to bed.

Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we stole out to the waterfront one street away with its cafes and restaurants. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot), or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece
Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys. 

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach. 

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos stands a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

Fokos Taverna
Fokos Tavern with a view towards dark, elemental and unorganised Fokos beach.
— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

Limnios Tavern Mykonos
Limnios Tavern with a sea view in delightfully drowsy Agios Stefanos.
— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a special space worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails that lead to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting out classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. In the search for soul food that is Greek cuisine, we were served small portions of deconstructed fare by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or stopping by to break the onward journey to another island. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures are still over 20°C. If you appreciate warm swimming waters, but not the crowds, try the end of September. Spring in Greece is always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Unless you’re going to party, avoid July and August. And while winter travel is possible, take note that businesses start to close in late October. 

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. The newly renovated airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two and a half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

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Cyclades

Paros is Greece’s Latest ‘It’ Island. It’s Also Great with Kids.

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Paros Harbour Greece

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, why do tourists pine after Greece’s pretty girl next door?

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easy to access. 

She’s also delicately balanced. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage.

Like its translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence, Paros’ shine is understated, but brilliant. It might lack the drama of some big hitting neighbours (Santorini, Mykonos and Milos), but its shimmer is steadily pulling-in the crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island,
Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa, the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene slice of a seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands. And wherever you pick, you shouldn’t be far from village conveniences like mini markets, bakeries and tavernas.

— PARIKIA —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where you will arrive if you’re travelling by ferry. Not particularly charming at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, colourful walkways are scattered with the unexpected remains of an intriguing past. Somewhere within this tangle of streets is Symposium – an idyllic coffee and crepe stop with a raised platform from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenience for families. Within walking range is Livadia beach, backed by cafe-bars that have furnished its shores with sunbeds and parasols for easy dips with baby. Meanwhile, parents can take turns at beach volleyball in front of the Paros Nautical Club. Looking for a dreamier splash? Child-friendly Marcelo is a 7-minute drive (or a 5-minute boat taxi trip from the port) the bay after, with shallow, sandy shores and aquamarine waters.

The Old Town of Parikia has a village vibe that is more pronounced than cosmo-posh Naoussa.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks that totter along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques, slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive with the setting sun. Bathed in pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. All very inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge. For a more relaxed dining experience, head to Thalami in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas – dine with a view of Naxos across the sea.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the right boxes for families. Anchoring the village beach is a tree-shaded playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade starts. It quickly became customary for us to whisk away a custard-filled bougatsa from Sophie’s to enjoy on a playground bench as the kids scampered and socialised.

The promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) offers a complete selection of eateries, taking you from breakfast to seafood taverna dinner (To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals). No energy for restaurant dining? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for takeaway packets of Italian vegetarian (e.g. eggplant lasagne) to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. A restaurant you can take home is always easier after long days on the beach.

  • Alyki Promenade in Paros
    The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
  • Alyki playground in Paros
    Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
  • Agios Nikolaous beach in Alyki, Paros
    Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
  • Mouragio Seafood tavern in Alyki
    Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

Paros’ beach scene is delightfully family-friendly. With a swimmable coastline encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), lunar-like bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beache (Kalogeros) for healing mud baths. 

Santa Maria beach in Paros
Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.

So which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all you might envision from a tourist-savvy Greek island is available. And there’s more: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the gardens of a butterfly haven (with a café and playground) watered by natural springs, and drop into an evening watercolouring class in Parikia while mom slips off into the shops. If she can add a reformer pilates class (a number of options) or a game of tennis to the itinerary, it all starts to sound pretty irresistible. 

Butterfly garden paros
Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.

And then of course there are villages to seek out pit-stops for ice cream on tap. The Cyclades charms with captivating walks through all-white villages cloaked in bougainvillea bushes. In the less-trodden villages like Lefkes (the old capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), you can enjoy leisurely strolls without the kids bumping into too many people.

Lefkes village in Paros
Lovely Lefkes village in Paros’ mountainous interior with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by beautiful neighbours. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is just a 10-minute journey by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely as well (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

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Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Agios Prokopis Beach Naxos Greece

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

Greece is replete with alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of the kind of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets holiday with kids, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for the lazier among us.

Naxos airport
The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

— chora (main town) —

The Greek “Chora” is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south will bring you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

— pLAKA —

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we avoid the Chora. As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, cluttered by one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d advise staying clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and other conveniences you didn’t know you need. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos
The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a stylish selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Admittedly, this is not for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but I was lured by the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato on repeat. A few doors down is Yazoo – polished, standing out with prettily plated, creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, and none of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an aquatic adventurer’s joy. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos Island, Greece
Mikri Vigla’s family-friendly south beach has a mini rock-climbing attraction.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s south beach – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a short bit of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is unobscured by rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment is taken care of at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss tavern on the edge of beach. Happily, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece
Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats, shades, and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos
The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades are filled with interesting finds. There’s Valindras distillery, the oldest in Naxos producing the island’s famed citron liquer. Era, a jam making workshop, specialises in Greece’s famous “spoon sweets” (syrupy fruit preserves). The highlight for us is Fish and Olive – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by a very talented Katharina Bolesch, then embellished with ethereal fish motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt, these are souvenirs to treasure.

Chalki village in Naxos, Greece
Charming Chalki, and a shopping highlight – Fish and Olive art gallery.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

Filoti village cafe, Naxos
A café in Filoti village center.

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and their friends. Fill with water and blow to produce a delightful twittering sound, still pleasant on the ears even after the hundredth time.

  • Pottery shop near Filoti.
  • Pottery shop near Filoti village in Naxos
    Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece
Apeiranthos mountain village strolls.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Naxos old town, Greece
Old town walks.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for an idyllic sunset view. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Naxos chora
The Chora at sunset.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece
Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table.

If you snag a chance to continue the night with cocktails and pretend to be cool again, move onto the harbourside veranda of 520 Bar and Restaurant. We had managed to leave baby with yiayia (Greek for grandma) on this occasion, which may have helped the oddly perfect progression of the evening.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee scampering kids as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Stellar such spots in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable here. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites and succulent seafood.

Kastraki Paradise Tavern View, Naxos
The view from Kastraki Paradise taverna.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from its beachfront tables is a bit of magic. Paradiso has a wide selection of “cooked food”. A term that confused me initially, my Greek husband clarified that it refers to the type of food mom would cook at home. Perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds, fussy little eaters can survey the spread of ready-made (and quick to serve) options on a buffet-like display before making their selection.

Paradiso Restaurant Beachfront
Beachside dining at Paradiso.

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

Avli Tavern, Agia Anna Beach, Naxos
Avli taverna on Agia Anna beach is seafood perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, Naxos doesn’t get unbearably busy in general, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can also retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

  • Getting There:
    • Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
    • Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
  • Car Rental:  Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
  • Eat:
  • Drink:
  • Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
  • Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

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Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Sarakiniko beach Milos

Milos is a showstopper. At once relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids
The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal fascination, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would look for accommodation options in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours. 

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the more recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinks, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island's highest hill.
Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island’s highest hill.
Palaios in Plaka village, Milos,
Palaios – a perfect place to settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Quieter Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. And nestled in a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea is 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens set below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas, proximity to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, and a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down. 

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos
The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, has only a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to get to. It may also be missing the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas. Operators have come and gone, and for 2024, visitors will have to throw their towels down on the beach. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece
The iridescent waters of Paleochori.

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to the island with its fantastical lunar landscape of wind and wave-scuplted tuff. Not a beach proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece
The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said that you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, even serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming claypot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, and not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting
Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum on each trip to Milos with the girls. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a well-curated background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a comprehensive display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place to bring home a souvenir for fellow crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos
An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.
— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave. 

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease. 

Astakas Klima at Klima Bay, Milos

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls. 

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm. 

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials.. 

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos
The sand kitchen of Sirocco.
— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

Kipos Restaurant in Milos

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the main tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus port in Athens will get you there in three-and-a-half hours. It’s a good way to travel if you are tempted to extend your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring.

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Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Balos beach, Crete Greece

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and angelic patience for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of the three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here. 

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque
Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour,  striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. It’s also a vibrant village, with a narrow maze of back streets bustling with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the main touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation.

From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfasts – also a fashionable joint for modern international dining and drinks with a rooftop harbour view. This was typically followed by a stop at Starbucks in the heart of town. Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence, and as a junk coffee connoisseur, I relished in the company of a Frappuccino during the road trips ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s breathtaking beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Staying in Kissamos is a good option that brings you closer to these beach attractions, at the expense of proximity to Chania town. There’s also a small port here for boat tours to Balos beach at Kissamos. Alternatively, take a private tour with Falasarna Private Cruises which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna. Starting from €380 for a 6-hour cruise on a 9.5-metre or 12-metre boat, it’s a better option for families, we think – less crowded, flexible in schedule, and complete with snorkeling equipment and refreshment on board.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty. Laying outstretched in its shallow waters, the 7-year-old in our company declared that Elafonisi is the best beach he has ever been to.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice since getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip). An unshaded and stony-pathed trek in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day at the beach. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. They are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete
The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here we were hosted in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Our favourite beach yet is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters also stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. It’s like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool. The feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete
The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.
View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete
Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH ADVENTURES

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

  • Getting There (Chania):
    • Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
    • Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
    • Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
  • Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
  • Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
  • Eat:
  • Drink:
  • Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more. 
  • Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/ 
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Destinations

Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Temple of Zeus Athens Greece

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is proof of this. For out of the post-war housing crisis of the impoverished 1950s, the antiparochi system of mutual exchange between construction worker and landowner was the citizen’s answer to a desperate need. This gave rise to the city’s sprawl of concrete volumes, much removed from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past, to the frequent surprise of tourists.

Inventive, charismatic, and still packed with exciting landmarks, it’s worth a 2 to 3-day stopover if you’re in the area. The city is also spiffing up: ex-Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis introduced continuing efforts to remove graffiti, create pocket parks in the concrete sprawl, and a new wave of once derelict buildings are getting impressive makeovers.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options in the center include:

  1. Colors Hotel – Splashed with cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (comfortably accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven.
  2. Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is smack in the beating heart of town – always appreciated if you have little legs to herd around. A block from the main shopping street of Ermou, retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing.
  3. Grand Bretagne – The traditional choice of luxury, and also with a rooftop pool, this iconic fixture at the corner of Syntagma Square charms with old-world grandeur. A skip away from Parliament, watch the changing of the Presidential Guards (Evzones or Tsoliades) ceremony on Sunday at 11am. If you miss Sunday’s grand event, a “routine change” takes place every hour, every day.
  4. AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) that’s lovely for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For families needing a bit more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may sound more appealing. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. But if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a visit to the Acropolis, venture out to the southern coast for an infinitely more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care and duck out for a precious few hours to explore the city, unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days: 

Athens with Kids - Activities
  1. Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
  2. Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt, and more. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
  3. Take a walk around Thissio where the Ancient Agora is. There’s a modest playground opposite Athinaion Politeia café.
  4. To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
  5. The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
  6. Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. Stop by Forget Me Not for tasteful gifts and memorabilia.
  7. Head out to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with a go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s also a ton of things to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
  8. Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
  9. On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in heading out into the cool of the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. XPLORE is its impressive kids entertainment center with an aquarium, adventure arena, toddler play area, and science discovery zone.
Plaka and Acropolis Museum

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

  1. Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and elegant, sit inside or out.
  2. To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to.
  3. Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
  4. Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
  5. Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.
Tzitzikas and Kafeneion

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

  1. Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
  2. Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Churning out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and of all colours of wonderful, vegan options are also available.
  3. Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades takes the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet and dresses them up in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings to meet every child’s fantasy.
Lukumades, Takis Bakery and Kokkion

AND SIPS

Meanwhile, the “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

  1. The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
  2. Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.
Clumsies Bar and Tailor Made Coffee

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

  1. Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand in Monastiraki Square right next to Moustakas toy shop, where a line of taxis should be waiting to receive passengers.
  2. Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone of Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected. Cosmote often launches unlimited data plans for the summer for just €10 a month.
  3. Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city. If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
  4. Pharmacies – Found in almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 8 a.m. / 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. / 9 p.m., and close on Sundays. Some close in the afternoon from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.. For more information, read our article on Staying Safe.
  5. Beachwear and swimming gear – Oysho is a favourite. There’s also local brand Sugarfree, Calzedonia (with a men’s selection), and trusty H&M.
  6. Baby clothing, feeding and travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
  7. Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.

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Cyclades

Must-See Santorini: The Family Edit

by Lindsay
written by Lindsay
Santorini Caldera Greece

Home to celestial villages with cosmopolitan flair, Greece’s Pompeii that is Akrotiri, unique gastronomy, and viticulture shaped by its volcanic history, we are still happy to brave the hordes (even with kidlets in company) to see astonishing Santorini.

With pearly-white villages that float atop the inner rim of a submerged caldera, Santorini’s sugar-cube quarters shine in the blaze of the Greek sun, glow orange and pink at sunset, and light up like a fairyland at night. From its calamitous volcanic history, a unique beauty has emerged to make the island a truly special place.

Caldera village views. Image credit: Photo by Alex Azabache.

Greece’s most visited island attraction draws over two million visitors a year. Overbearingly crowded in the giddying heat of its searing summers, can it still be enjoyed with family?

Returning on our second trip with an eight-month-old, we think so. Timed wisely, with the right accommodation, carefully selected activities, a car, and expectations managed, it might even top the list of family adventures to remember.

WHERE TO STAY

The caldera’s cliffhanging village string of Fira, Imerovigli, and Oia is where to stay for the views the island is famous for. This is also where the multitudes descend to roam the narrow cobblestone streets of the island’s pin-up settlements. Flanked by colourful boutiques, art galleries, hip cafés, and bustling tavernas, while charming, these bumpy streets are crossed by stairs at almost every turn. Bring your baby carrier and leave the stroller behind.

If you’ve decided on these parts, select your location carefully. Fira, the capital and center of it all, is chaotic. Imerovigli a little better. And elegant Oia, with marble-paved streets and a cluster of luxury design hotels, the best of the three village options, we think.

Sunset at Oia village, Santorini Greece
The legendary sunsets at Oia.

It’s also a good idea to research your hotel thoroughly. Especially with first walkers in hand. Many of the caldera’s cave-type Cycladic dwellings are not designed with kids in mind. Stairwells are narrow, steep, and often without handrails, while low-slung balconies look out into jaw-dropping vistas.

We stayed in Aerie House in Oia. Spacious enough for the family with a living room and kitchen for the endless meal preparation requirements of a toddler, it also came without the worry of otherwise covetable private pools that continue into the horizon. Set a nominal flight of stairs away from the main street so we could dodge the crowds, it’s still attractively close to all the action when you want. Local treasure Atlantis Books (including a children’s section) is also just a minute’s walk away.

What to do in the area? A scenic 10-kilometre hiking trail skirting the cliff’s edge takes you from Fira to Oia. Passing through Firostefani and Imerovigli, it’s an enjoyable way to explore the island with kids over four. If you only manage a walk to Firostefani, stop by nondescript Aktaion with tables outside for sumptuous sea views. A cozy, home-like family-run restaurant since 1922, it surprises with a modern spin on local flavours. Also nearby is Vanilla with a rooftop garden and broader menu options including child-pleasing pastas and pizzas. If you make it to Oia, settle into Melitini’s rooftop terrace for medley of meze (Greek tapas).

ESCAPE THE CROWDS: SOUTHERN SEASIDE VILLAGES

While Santorini is all about its mesmerising clifftop vistas, staying in its southern beach strip provides some relief from a daily clash with tourist hordes. Yes, you will still have to join cars and buses vying for road space and parking to visit the island’s main villages of interest. But if the convenience of water-frolicking fun at your doorstep sounds additionally appealing, look to the sandy beaches of Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari. All “organised”, as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas furnished by beachfront cafés and tavernas, it’s a family-friendly set-up. The black sand is an added novelty, but burns in the sun, so bring water shoes.

Perissa beach Santorini Greece
The black sands of Perissa, typical of the island’s beaches.

As a volcanic island, Santorini doesn’t have the idyllic white sands and aquamarine waters you might idealise. Skip onto neighbouring islands like Naxos or Mykonos for that.  And while beaches may not the highlight here, Vlychada is notably impressive backed by sculptural pumice rock cliffs. It’s also home to Theros Wave Bar and restaurant on a semi-secluded bit of shore. Providing all the comforts for elevated beach lounging, sit back with a cocktail and savour stunning scenery alongside atmospheric tunes.

You might hear of the Red Beach at some point, with red sand. Harder to reach, it requires a short but dubious trek which we do not recommend if you are with young children. For us, the Red Beach is good for a quick look rather than to spend an afternoon in.

The Red Beach, Santorini Greece
The Red beach – over-hyped and hard to reach with young ones.

DINING WITH KIDS

Finding a restaurant that didn’t make my Greek husband feel like prey in a tourist trap was challenging, but Taverna Katina stood out. For seafood in general, and lobster spaghetti in particular. Laid-back, authentic, and with sufficient toddling space in-between tables, it sits on the waters of Amoudi Bay below the red cliffs of Oia.

Seafood Taverna Katina, Amoudi Bay (Oia), Santorini Greece
Seafood Taverna Katina at Amoudi bay, below Oia.

In general, dining within the narrow walls of Santorini’s famed villages can be a little too cozy for bouncing balls of energy. Take a break from the village bustle and retreat to rolling vineyards of acclaimed wineries like Domaine Sigalas and Venesantos for meals paired with top-rated tipples, and where everyone can have their bit of fun.

PREHISTORIC TREASURES & ADVENTURES

When the afternoon sun overpowers, escape into the sheltered (most archaeological sites in Greece are not) and extraordinary Bronze Age city of Akrotiri. Like Pompeii, its remains were buried and preserved by ash after a volcanic eruption in the 16th century B.C. . Still an active archaeological site, it has been thoughtfully constructed with wide walkways and viewing platforms that take you directly above the multi-story buildings and through the dusty streets of the ancient settlement. Hiring a guide when visiting key archaeological sites in Greece is always worthwhile. Later, break for seafood at The Dolphins taverna close by, and right by the water. 

  • Akrotiri Museum Santorini
    The covered archaeological site of prehistoric Akrotiri is best visited with a guide.
  • Dolphin Taverna, Akrotiri, Santorini
    Dolphin seafood restaurant in Akrotiri, next to the Red Beach.
  • Traditional seafood dining at Dolphin Taverna

WHEN TO VISIT

Timing is everything for enjoying Santorini. High season stretches from June to September. Go in the peak of summer (July and August) and you’re likely to get smothered in tourist hordes crammed into tight alleyways. In April, May, October and November, the crowds ease off its strained infrastructure (road network included). The sea might be a tad chilly for swimming, but the black sand beaches of Santorini are not known for its spectacular swims anyways. So if this doesn’t bother you, these are the best months to visit.

With the mild Mediterranean climate, winter travel is rising in popularity. Giving you a glimpse into the hypnotic magic of the island, here you will have its sunsets all to yourself. Holidays in December, January and February, are, however, at some risk of rain. A selection of hotels will be open, along with a few restaurants catering to locals, and all will be happily more affordable.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Santorini 45 minutes from Athens. With a small and recently refurbished international airport, you can also fly in from London and other major European cities in summer.

The high-speed ferries from Pireaus or Rafina ports in Athens otherwise takes five to seven hours. The island’s ferry port also connects you with other stunning near neighbours like Folegandros, Ios, Naxos and more Cycladic destinations.

For island hopping inspiration from Santorini, refer to our article with suggestions on island pairings.

  • Getting There:
    • Flights from Athens Airport: 55 minutes
    • High-speed fFerry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours 35 minutes. Note: the Santorini Athinios port is notoriously busy. It’s better to fly into the island if you are crowd averse.
  • Where We Stayed: Aerie House, Oia
  • Eat:
  • See:
  • Shop:
  • Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Vassilopoulos (refer to map below) – our go-to supermarket on the islands. Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
  • Official Site: https://www.santorini.gr

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