Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

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And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is proof of this. For out of the post-war housing crisis of the impoverished 1950s, the antiparochi system of mutual exchange between construction worker and landowner was the citizen’s answer to a desperate need. This gave rise to the city’s sprawl of concrete volumes, much removed from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past, to the frequent surprise of tourists.

Inventive, charismatic, and still packed with exciting landmarks, it’s worth a 2 to 3-day stopover if you’re in the area. The city is also spiffing up: ex-Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis introduced continuing efforts to remove graffiti, create pocket parks in the concrete sprawl, and a new wave of once derelict buildings are getting impressive makeovers.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options in the center include:

1. Colors Hotel – Splashed with cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (comfortably accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven.
2. Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is smack in the beating heart of town – always appreciated if you have little legs to herd around. A block from the main shopping street of Ermou, retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing.
3. Grand Bretagne – The traditional choice of luxury, and also with a rooftop pool, this iconic fixture at the corner of Syntagma Square charms with old-world grandeur. A skip away from Parliament, watch the changing of the Presidential Guards (Evzones or Tsoliades) ceremony on Sunday at 11am. If you miss Sunday’s grand event, a “routine change” takes place every hour, every day.
4. AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) that’s lovely for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For families needing a bit more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may sound more appealing. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. But if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a visit to the Acropolis, venture out to the southern coast for an infinitely more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care and duck out for a precious few hours to explore the city, unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days: 

1. Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
2. Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt, and more. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
3. Take a walk around Thissio where the Ancient Agora is. There’s a modest playground opposite Athinaion Politeia café.
4. To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
5. The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
6. Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. Stop by Forget Me Not for tasteful gifts and memorabilia.
7. Head out to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with a go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s also a ton of things to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
8. Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
9. On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in heading out into the cool of the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. XPLORE is its impressive kids entertainment center with an aquarium, adventure arena, toddler play area, and science discovery zone.

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

1. Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and elegant, sit inside or out.
2. To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to.
3. Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
4. Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
5. Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

1. Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
2. Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Churning out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and of all colours of wonderful, vegan options are also available.
3. Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades takes the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet and dresses them up in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings to meet every child’s fantasy.

AND SIPS

Meanwhile, the “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

1. The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
2. Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

1. Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand in Monastiraki Square right next to Moustakas toy shop, where a line of taxis should be waiting to receive passengers.
2. Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone of Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected. Cosmote often launches unlimited data plans for the summer for just €10 a month.
3. Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city. If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
4. Pharmacies – Found in almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 8 a.m. / 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. / 9 p.m., and close on Sundays. Some close in the afternoon from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.. For more information, read our article on Staying Safe.
5. Beachwear and swimming gear – Oysho is a favourite. There’s also local brand Sugarfree, Calzedonia (with a men’s selection), and trusty H&M.
6. Baby clothing, feeding and travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
7. Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.