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    • Family Favourites >
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      • Naxos ✈️
      • Paros ✈️
      • Sifnos
      • Skiathos ✈️
      • Skopelos
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      • Athens ✈️ >
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      • Thessaloniki ✈️
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      • Meteora ⛰️
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      • Skopelos
    • Saronic Islands
    • North Aegean Islands >
      • Limnos ✈️
  • Special Stays
    • Athens (Central) – The Aeolian
    • Ios (Cyclades) – Sea Sound Beach House
    • Milos (Cyclades) – Villa De Viento
    • Skiathos (Sporades) – Skiathos Holiday Villas & Suites
  • Insider Insights
    • By Bleecker & Love
    • Meet MAMAKITA – Family Travel Planners in Greece
    • Papa’s Grove’s Greece
  • Travel Tips
    • How to Select a Greek Island 🎯
    • Best Times to Visit 🔆
    • Ferry Travel 🚢
    • Driving in Greece 🚗
    • Trip Planning Tips for Young Families
    • Selecting Accommodation – Mistakes to Avoid 🏠
    • Practical Greece – Know Before You Go
      • Travel Tips

        Practical Greece – Know Before You Go

        Aug 04, 2025

        Travel Tips

        The Best Thing to Add to Your Holiday…

        Jul 19, 2025

        Travel Tips

        Selecting Accomodation in Greece? Avoid These Mistakes

        Feb 06, 2023

        Travel Tips

        Driving in Greece

        Jan 30, 2023

        Travel Tips

        How to Plan a Sweat-Free Summer in Greece…

        Jan 29, 2022

    • Eating with Kids In Greece 🍉
    • Medical Help in Greece ⚕️
    • Don’t Leave Greece Without . . .
  • Gear & Gifts
    • Summer Packing List 👙
    • Travel Gear for Babies and Toddlers 🧳
    • Travel Toys for Toddlers 🧸
    • Beach Essentials for Families ⛱️
    • The Ultimate Kids Beach Holiday Adventure Kit 🪁
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Through the Blue

FALL IN LOVE WITH GREECE. AEGEAN ADVENTURES FOR FAMILIES.

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Multi Gen Travel

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020
written by Lindsay
Paros Harbour Greece

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?


🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏇🏽 🦋 🎨 🏺 👨‍🌾 🏐

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible. 

She’s also balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white lychnite marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island,
Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. At first glance, it can feel like a tourist-oriented jumble of ferry traffic, waterfront tavernas and souvenir shops. But venture beyond the harbour and you’ll discover an old town that has retained much of its village charm. Built atop a settlement dating back to the 2nd millennium BCE, fragments of its long history reveal themselves around unexpected corners, from ancient masonry incorporated into whitewashed buildings, to the three 18th-century Mavrogenous marble fountains that once served as a gathering place for locals. When it’s time for a pause, settle into Symposium for coffee and a crêpe. Perched slightly above the lane beneath a canopy of bougainvillea, it’s a lovely spot to linger and watch the world wander by.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

The Old Town of Parikia has a village vibe that is more pronounced than cosmo-posh Naoussa.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea.

— ALYKI —

If your ideal summer holiday is one of quiet languor, consider Alyki. Just a 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unspoilt little fishing village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

  • Alyki Promenade in Paros
    The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
  • Alyki playground in Paros
    Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
  • Agios Nikolaous beach in Alyki, Paros
    Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
  • Mouragio Seafood tavern in Alyki
    Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros). 

Santa Maria beach in Paros
Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (complete with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.  

Butterfly garden paros
Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for striking sculptural vessels with graceful, fluid forms.

Lefkes village in Paros
Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment
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Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020
written by Lindsay
Agios Prokopis Beach on Naxos

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.


🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏐🏺 🎨 👨‍🌾 🐝🏇 ⛰️🏛️ִ

Last updated 23 Jul 2026

Greece is blessed with an abundance of alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, itself conveniently close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach to swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (pottery workshops, “Farmer for a Day” experiences,, bee farm visits, horse-riding, even a waterpark, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

View towards Portara in Naxos
The island’s icon, the Potara in the far distance is an easy walk from town.

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system zips you from town to its main beach attractions.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars crammed in. In particular, I’d avoid Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit unpleasant smells.

Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis
Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis.

Moving south through Naxos’ fertile western lowlands, farmland gradually gives way to holiday homes set within generous gardens and open fields separated by tall bamboo hedges. Some are dotted with grazing cows, flocks of goats, and sheep huddled against drystone walls to hide from the midday sun —a veritable animal farm safari for the girls. Strict limits on what can be built on agricultural plots, or agrotemachia, have spared the area from dense coastal development, leaving tourist accommodation pleasantly dispersed across the landscape.

Feeding sheep in Naxos
Sheep eat bamboo leaves, it turns out.

In Plaka & Mikri Vigla, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. Mikri Vigla has the advantage of our favourite beach for family swims, while Plaka is 10 minutes closer to the Chora. Quieter than Plaka, Mikri Vigla is still complete with small supermarkets (we found Campos to be the most well-stocked in the area), bakeries (Naxos Bakery has an enticing selection of breads, cakes, ice-cream, and great coffee), a grill for pita gyros and pizzas, and traditional tavernas.

Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach.

Our villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

Naxos Chora
Naxos town. Photo by Efrem Efre

The Chora is often the obvious choice for visitors wanting the convenience of a lively town . Naxos has a lovely one, generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, it’s just a 12-minute walk south to the beginning of the island’s magnificent sweep of sandy beaches. For us, however, there are two reasons to stay elsewhere. Parking is a constant stress point if you’re hiring a car, and with Naxos’s growing popularity, the Chora can feel overwhelmed during the height of summer, with crowds that take some of the shine off its charm.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos
The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis.

— MARAGAS – pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Gently shelving and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Agios Prokopis is particularly stunning with shallower waters, but gets chaotically busy in summer for our liking. If you’re going to enjoy the waters here, we would head to the northern end by Molos cafe and taverna. It’s only a short walk from the nearby parking area, and the crowds thin noticeably, making for a far more relaxing section of the beach.

  • Sunbeds provided by Peppermint in Plaka
  • Dining at Peppermint
  • And a pool

Our preferred part lies south from Maragas – Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter. Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Peppermint has the kind of setup that can carry you through an entire day: sunbeds on the beach, a swimming pool for a break from salt water, and a spacious dining area where multiple strollers can be wheeled in endless laps until babies drift off to sleep. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the asphalt road to Mikri Vigla soon gives way to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow flurry of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos Island, Greece
Mikri Vigla’s family-friendly south beach has a mini rock-scaling attraction.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and top pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than neighbouring Plaka, only a small section of the shoreline is “organised” with sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully undeveloped. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, it’s a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Eye of Naxos
Easy fun idea? Go on a treasure hunt for the Eye of Naxos

Do your kids enjoy a treasure hunt? Look for the Eye of Naxos as you comb the island’s sandy shores. The girls first received theirs as gifts from our beautiful Airbnb hosts in Milos – a small pouch containing three. These smooth, polished opercula of sea snails are symbols of good luck and often set into jewellery. It sparked a coastal search, although it seems these jewels are becoming increasingly rare. We finally found our first, and then two more, at the small swimming bay of Mikri Vigla. 

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos
The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, once the capital and commercial heart of Naxos, is a delightful place to browse for locally crafted treasures. Its compact knot of picturesque lanes, lined with elegant neoclassical villas, hides an eclectic collection of galleries and artisan workshops. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

Chalki village in Naxos, Greece
Charming Chalki, and a shopping highlight – Fish and Olive art gallery.

Just beyond Chalki, stop by Libertas Manolis’ pottery shop for handcrafted ceramics by a fourth-generation family of potters originally from Sifnos, Greece’s famed pottery island. Our girls delighted in water-filled whistling birds—a Montessori-friendly keepsake that pipes out a surprisingly lifelike birdsong—while ceramic pomegranates, a Greek symbol of good fortune and prosperity, make elegant artisan souvenirs to take home.

Libertas Manolis Pottery Shop
Pottery class in Damalas, Naxos

Manolis also offers pottery workshops (send a whatsapp message to +30 698 599 5451 to arrange) for children and adults. For younger participants (around nine or ten years old), an introductory experience lasting 30 minutes should suffice. As he candidly explains, it’s more about letting children discover the basics of the craft, with much of the shaping still guided by himself.

— f i l o t i —

Spread across the verdant slopes beneath Mount Zeus, Filoti—once the island’s commercial heart—is the largest village on Naxos. Life centres around the leafy square of Gefyra, where cafés spill out beneath towering plane trees. Once tranquil, the main road skirting the square has now become a busy bottleneck of traffic in the height of summer.

Filoti village cafe, Naxos
A café in Filoti village center.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Beyond Filoti lies Apeiranthos, a striking mountain village hewn from the marble that surrounds it. Perched 600 metres above sea level on the slopes of Mount Fanari, its stone-paved lanes weave between centuries-old houses, where cafés and tavernas pepper every corner. Many open onto terraces with sweeping views across Naxos’s rugged interior—the perfect setting to linger over coffee, crêpes or a leisurely lunch.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece
Apeiranthos mountain village strolls.

Our recent visit made it clear just how much tourism has grown in Naxos over the past two years. Once a sleepy village, Apeiranthos now bustles with visitors. By 2:30 p.m., almost every taverna along its marble streets was full, with a queue of hungry diners waiting for a table.

In search of respite, we ducked down a flight of stone steps to the hidden courtyard of O Lefteris. Tucked away from the crowds beneath the lacework of light cast by a spreading walnut tree, this traditional taverna offered a welcome pocket of calm. The food delivered, but the painfully slow service tested the patience of many a table around us—perhaps an inevitable side effect of the village’s newfound popularity.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages are one of the joys summer days. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands sentinel at one end – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Old town of Naxos
Old town walks.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. The reward? Homemade ice-cream from Aktion on the main waterfront, or profiteroles from Chou Chouro If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind if you’re going to navigate the backstreets of the main town.

Chou Chorou Profiteroles, Naxos Town
Assemble your own profiterole at Chou Chorou in the heart of town.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece
Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee the kids scamper at a distance as we nurse an ouzo. Some special finds in Naxos include:

— PARADISE( KASTRAKI) —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable. While you settle into a leisurely lunch from a small but well executed menu of taverna favourites (seafood and more), little ones can inspect ant hills and play hide-and-seek among the trees.

Kastraki Paradise Tavern View, Naxos
The view from Kastraki Paradise taverna.

— PARADISO TAVERNA (Agia anna) —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from Paradiso’s beachfront tables dispels any a frazzled nerve. A taverna that’s also a mageireio, this is a type of eatery that is very useful for parents to know when in Greece. Serving ready-made, home-cooked style dishes, it’s perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds. Fussy eaters can survey the spread of stews and oven-baked meals on a buffet-like display before making their selection. There’s also the option to pack something to-go (without waiting) if its been that kind of day.

Paradiso Restaurant in Naxos
Beachside dining

— avli (aGIA ANNA) —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

Avli Tavern, Agia Anna Beach, Naxos
Avli taverna on Agia Anna beach is seafood perfection.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and hottest months) I try to avoid as far as possible.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. If you’re flying in from Europe, you can also use the international airports at Mykonos or Santorini as a point of arrival instead of Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:


  • Getting There:
    • Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
    • Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
  • Car Rental:  Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
  • Eat:
    • Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
    • Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
    • Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
    • Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
    • Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
  • Drink:
    • Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
    • 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
  • Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
  • Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment
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Cyclades

Milos with Kids: Where Little Adventures Meet Otherworldly Beauty

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020
written by Lindsay
Sarakiniko beach Milos

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.


🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids
The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. On Milos, however, such stays are surprisingly scarce. The island’s dramatic volcanic coastline leaves relatively few broad, easily accessible beaches, while its thankfully restrained development has kept much of the shoreline free from large-scale accommodation.

Our preferred compromise is to base ourselves in Pollonia, whose gentle village beach is ideal for young children. Next comes hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), where beautiful accommodation is paired with easy access to the island’s highlights, followed by Adamantas, the main port, with Papikinou Beach just a few minutes away.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours. 

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capitalwhere life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island's highest hill.
Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island’s highest hill.
Palaios in Plaka village, Milos,
Palaios — Settle in for slow coffee and homemade sweets in the heart of Plaka.

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for coffee, Stasi for reliably good pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef led OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down. 

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos
The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece
The iridescent waters of Paleochori.

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece
The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting
Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos
Minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.
— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave. 

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease. 

Astakas Klima at Klima Bay, Milos

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls. 

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm. 

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials.. 

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos
Sirocco’s sand kitchen.
— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

Kipos Restaurant in Milos

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment
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