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Toddler Friendly

Skiathos: The Family Gem of the Sporades

by Lindsay Jul 08, 2026

written by Lindsay

View of the island from Bourtzi, Skiathos.

An emerald isle washed in sapphire seas, a combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🎣 🏇

On clear days, the gentle silhouette of Skiathos emerges on the horizon as we linger over coffee at Kimasi Beach in our home village of Mandoudi, North Evia. Part of the Sporadic island complex formed by rocks thrown in a clash of the mythic giant brothers Otos and Efialtes, the island continues the lush, pine-cloaked greenery of North Evia. Alive with birdsong and butterflies that drift among forested hills descending into pristine waters in golden coves, it is a world apart from the familiar Cycladic image of Greece—a landscape of bare rock, whitewashed villages and cobalt seas that has come to define the country’s postcard identity.

What Skiathos possesses that Evia does not are dreamy, honey-hued beaches of astonishing clarity. Since the opening of a new ferry port in Mandoudi (a 2-hour road trip from Athens), Skiathos is now just a 40-minute crossing on a spiffy Seajets fast-ferry. Skiathos is also the Sporades‘ most connected island, served by an international airport famed for its unusually short runway on a narrow isthmus, where aircraft enthusiasts gather to watch planes skim thrillingly overhead during take-off and landing.

Descent to Small Banana Beach — *The sparkle of small Banana Beach through the pines.*

Beyond its cinematic landscapes made famous by Mamma Mia!, Skiathos proves itself remarkably family-friendly. While pockets of the island buzz with summer energy, its overall pace remains relatively relaxed. Days revolve around calm, gently shelving beaches and leisurely tavernas, punctuated by memorable adventures—from horse rides through pine forests and into the sea, to easy boat excursions, whether a quick private hop across to Tsougria or a day of fishing on the Aegean. It is this rare combination of accessibility, natural beauty and easy-going charm that makes Skiathos one of Greece’s most compelling islands for families.

WHERE TO STAY

For families and first-time visitors, the southwest coast is the island’s sweet spot with our favourite swims. Here, a string of sandy beach bays—from Vasilias and Achladies to Agia Paraskevi, Troulos and Koukounaries—is connected by the island’s main coastal road, striking a balance between relaxed beach life and easy access to town.

Big Banana Shoreline — *Big Banana gave us our favourite swims on Skiathos, though reaching it takes a little determination.*

Since the opening of its international airport in 1972—and the global spotlight cast by Mamma Mia! in 2008—Skiathos has evolved into one of Greece’s best-equipped island destinations. Yet development has remained refreshingly restrained, with low-rise buildings nestled into the island’s verdant hillsides.

Families are spoiled for choice with an assortment of sophisticated beachfront resorts. We stayed at Skiathos Holidays Suites & Villas, where contemporary interiors blend with traditional Greek architecture just steps from Vromolimnos Beach. At the luxury end of the spectrum, ELIVI has transformed the historic Xenia Hotel into the island’s flagship seaside resort, occupying a coveted outcrop of the Koukounaries peninsula.

Skiathos Old Town Alleyways — *Old Town walks.*

Unless your accommodation includes parking, we’d avoid staying in Skiathos Town if you have a car. Parking is severely limited during the summer months, and navigating the maze of narrow streets can quickly become frustrating. While the Old Town is a delight to explore on foot, its steep, stone-paved alleyways can be difficult for families with prams or grandparents.

ABOUT TOWN

As with most Greek island Choras (main town), the greatest charm lies within the steep labyrinth of Old Town, where narrow stone alleyways wind their way up and down between whitewashed houses. Teetering on over touristy, British pub-style boltholes and the bubble-gum facades of mass-market ice-cream parlours have sprouted in village corners, alongside a polished mix of massage studios and elegant boutiques (Kalokairi stocks some of our favourite Greek designers, including Greek Archaic Kori).

Along the main shopping street, Papadiamantis Street, seek out Alaska for homemade gelato, including local flavours such as baklava. Just opposite, Il Posto serves excellent coffee and relaxed breakfasts with an atmosphere that feels almost Parisian.

Alaska Skiathos — *Alaska – our favourite gelateria and cafe in the center of town.*

TOP TABLES

Seeking out spaces where the pace is a little less hurried (e.g. the fringe of Old and New Town), these are the spots we enjoyed meals out with kids between souvlaki wraps and a quick pasta toss-up in our apartment kitchen rental.

— BAKALIKO (SKIATHOS TOWN, EASTERN WATERFRONT) —

Seafood shines at the waterfront restaurant strip at the opposite end of Skaithos Town – where children scoot along the traffic-free promenade while parents amble with prams towards the heart of town. Our first choice, Agrokiali, came recommended by our hotel, but the queue persuaded us instead to claim a prime table beside the water at Bakaliko, where calming sage-green and cream interiors overlook the harbour.

Aside from the classics (grilled sardines and fried thrapsalo – like calamari, but softer), the menu celebrates the kind of homespun dishes my mother-in-law would prepare—octopus braised in red wine, cuttlefish with spinach, fish soup, and other Greek classics. Simple, deeply comforting and quietly memorable.

— BOURTZI (SKIATHOS OLD TOWN) —

Perched on the small peninsula fortified by the Venetians in the early 13th century, an expansive café nestles beneath a dense canopy of pines interwoven with sail shades, its terraces opening onto sweeping views in every direction. It’s a perfect place to begin a morning exploring the Old Town, before the sun gathers strength. Antsy children have plenty of space to roam among the trees and old stone walls, while chilled yoghurt smoothies provide refreshment before setting off again.

— O BATIS (OLD TOWN) —

Not quite the island’s finest example of traditional taverna cooking, but the setting more than compensates. Squeezed among the tiered restaurants climbing the hillside above the Old Port, the terrace looks out over the sea through the branches of a magnificent oak tree that has improbably taken root on the slope. Secure a table along the edge of one of the loveliest places in the area to linger over a leisurely Moussaka.

— BIG BAD WOLF (KOUKOUNARIES) —

Drawn by the relaxing calm of a patio of oak and olive trees, we settled after our koukounaries swim in Big Bad Wolf. Its namesake inspired a carnivorous meal choice of succulent pork tenderloin with velvety pumpkin puree (our menu favourite), lamb chops and more potato puree, and grilled chicken with mushrooms. Parking is available behind by the gated narrow dirt path.

— O TARSANAS( KECHRIES – Best Reached by 4WD or Boat) —

As we cautiously negotiated the steep, one-kilometre dirt track leading to the taverna, we couldn’t help wondering why neither our hosts nor the reviews we’d skimmed mentioned the very real possibility of our two-wheel-drive becoming stranded. Sensing our apprehension on the perilous return journey, owner-chef Argyris smiled reassuringly. “Don’t worry,” he said. “If you get stuck, I have three trucks. We’ll pull you back up.”

O Tarsanas Taverna in Kechries, Skiathos

Fortunately, the moment we arrived, the anxiety of the descent melted away. Between landscaped lawns drizzled over with sunbeds, olive trees and the thick shade of mulberry, the taverna occupies a secluded outcrop of the island’s wilder northern coastline. Here, Argyris has transformed his grandfather’s estate into a hidden seaside haven where the food more than lives up to the setting. The menu is concise, and shaped largely by the day’s catch from local fishing boats, but every dish is executed with refinement and a delicately balanced richness of flavour that lingers long after the meal has ended.

WHEN TO VISIT

Skiathos is at its liveliest during July and August, when every taverna, beach bar and boat excursion is in full swing. We find ourselves visiting then only because our children’s school holidays leave little choice. Families seeking a little more breathing room may prefer June or September. The weather remains warm for swimming, yet the beaches are noticeably quieter, parking becomes less of a competitive sport, and you’ll enjoy a more relaxed pace across the island.

GETTING THERE

One of the easiest Greek islands to reach, Skiathos is served by direct summer flights from numerous European cities, while year-round domestic flights connect via Athens. If you’re already exploring mainland Greece, ferries operate from Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Mantoudi in northern Evia.

FIND A FERRY FROM MANDOUDI

Click on your planned date of travel for a view of the ferry schedule to Skiathos from Mandoudi as provided by Ferryhopper:

Jul 08, 2026 0 comment

Destinations

Limnos is Pure Greece – A Guide to the North Aegean’s Family Delight

by Lindsay Sep 05, 2025

written by Lindsay

From a seaside sprouting bun-shaped rocks, to a fortress with free-roaming deer, little-known Limnos is filled with child-loving surprises.

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⛱️ 🤿 🦌🏛️

It was about 4pm when we settled under the thick shade of a line of Mulberry trees at Agrokiali. A late lunch even by Mediterranean standards. We were famished. And when our plates arrived, it seemed like they understood exactly how famished. We haven’t seen these portion sizes in Greece for a long time.

Limnos, as we were going to discover, is like that. Greece before the onslaught of mass tourism. Where a serving for one Greek belly feeds two internationally. Where dessert is gifted after meals as a gesture of welcome generosity towards guests. Where Greek is not spoken over by American, British and Australian-English accents. And where you can still enjoy seaside sunloungers for free with the courtesy of patronage.

Agios Ioannis, Limnos — *Sunset at Agios Ioannis*.

After holidaying in the heavily-touristed Cyclades, Limnos was a fresh breath of heartfelt hospitality. Like its pillowy hillscape of undulating land, it embraces arrivals with gentleness and generosity. A land largely untamed, but with just enough polish to put family travellers at ease. With fertile lands, a strategic location bridging the East and the Aegean, and safe harbours, its fortunate history of modest prosperity shows up in Neoclassical harbourfront villas, manicured villages, and good infrastructure by Greek standards.

WHAT TO DO

Most tourists flock to Greece for the beach. Sandy, shallow and organised (as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas), the sheltered coves scalloping the Limnian shoreline are great for child’s play, Yet, with sand the colour of Mercury (pristine, nonetheless) and better viewed from a drone-shot distance, it wasn’t our highlight.

Salt Lake in Limnos — *From salt flats (pictured here) home to migratory birds including flamingos in winter, to sand dunes, Limnos’ landscape is diverse and impressive.*

There are a bevy of other things to do. If you wanted one place to introduce your children to an impossible ensemble of fascinating geosites, Limnos landed in the fortuitous confluence of it all. Strangely, it also has more playgrounds than we have seen on any other Greek island, all impressive by Greek standards. In addition to well-maintained archaeological sites, sprawling dining venues both atmospheric and child-friendly, and a seaside Chora (main village) with wide pedestrian-only walkways. Throw horse riding into the sea, basket weaving workshops, wind and kite surfing classes – and it’s hard to keep up with the options. Here’s what we packed into 7 days:

— MYRINA HARBOUR & CASTLE —

Spotting poo in our pathways has never been as exciting. For within this Byzantine fortress grounds, a herd of spotted Fallow deer roam. As we made our way through its vast grounds built on a volcanic dome, we spotted one, then a family of three, and finally a gathering of at least 30 grazing deer on the grassy plain near the foot of the citadel. The walk is a continuous ascent over dirt and stone, past a scattering of crumbling fortification walls, arched gates, and underground bunkers. There was little whining on the way, just the desire to keep exploring.

Visit at least an hour before sunset to watch it sink in the direction of the lighthouse. You might also want to fuel up before the walk with coffee and pancakes at Nefeli bar at its foot, overlooking the waterfront.

Shaded shopping walkways in Myrina — *The main shopping street in Myrina is largely shaded for comfortable summer walks.*

— FARAKLOU ROCKS —

I was excited to show the girls the geological marvels of spheriodical weathering and frozen lava flows. But all they could see was a food fantasy of rocks shaped like croissants and chocolate buns. An entertaining food fantasy, nonetheless. After the 3km dirt road ends, a 5-minute walk will bring you to this whimsical place of Sarakiniko-like beauty. Best visited early in the morning or when the sun relents, you can cover the site in 30 minutes.

— THANOS BEACH —

A beach with benefits, the kids were very happy for the inflated water park at Thanos to colour their daily beach trips. Rotating between a thrilling 4-meter high slide, climbing tower, and a bouncy trampoline, it’s the non-stop action you need to reverse the job of an afternoon siesta. For kids 5 years and up, the fee is €8 per hour or €5 for 30 minutes.

— SANCTUARY OF THE KABEIROI —

An archaeological site visit was never going to excite the kids. Thankfully, you correspondingly only pay for adult entry (€5 per person) at Greek archaeological sites. Recently renovated with new facilities (toilets with baby changing tables included), this sanctuary’s cliffside spot is a beautiful and breezy one. There’s also shade to be found under a pergola by a spreading fig tree where kids can sit with a snack bag, while parents appreciate an encounter with 6th century B.C history. Archaeologists at work restoring the lower portion of the slope added interest to our visit. The site closes at 2pm, ruling out evening visits, so head out early instead.

*Dedicated to the Kabeiroi Gods, the sanctuary is one of 3 of the most important ancient settlements in Limnos (Poliochni and Hephaistia are two others)*.

— PLAYGROUNDS —

Playgrounds in Greece are often a scrappy sight, but the ones in Limnos are a cut above. Strategically located are the ones in Moudros harbour (opposite To Kyma taverna where we are happy to dine on repeat) and Myrina’s waterfront.

DINING WITH KIDS

Our introduction to the Limnian dining scene centered around our apartment rental in Agios Ioannis, peppered with a noteworthy variety of seaside restaurants that couldn’t be better in the company of children. Along with options in town and in-the-middle-of-nowhere villages, these were our standout experiences:

— BARBOUNAKI (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Camped under a rock stack on the shores of Agios Ioannis, Barbounaki is the most atmospheric dining spot on Limnos. Basket-weave lampshades and dreamcatchers sway from tamarisk branches with blue wooden boats tucked under, creating little nooks for child’s play in this rustic elegant island dining dream.

Can a place this beautiful have good food to match? Perhaps better. When you think you’re just ordering sardines, a selection of the largest, chubbiest, and juiciest five arrive in star formation on a bed of sliced onions. Meanwhile, the fried calamari was so finely-crisped yet succulent, distinguishing themselves a notch above traditional taverna fare.

— AGROKALIA (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Thoroughly laid back with a zen-inducing view towards the sea, Agrokialia is quintessential, traditional seaside taverna dining. Complete with Greek folk music from the 60s. And keeping with Greek tradition, meats tend to be cooked on the very well done side, so I’d go for seafood. As if to deliberately force you into ease, the service is also languid, but very friendly. A big bonus for families with children? Shaded swings by a small vineyard and heaps of space all around.

— KALOUDITSA (PLATY) —

In the corner of Platy village square opposite a pint-sized playground, Kalouditsa‘s popular appeal is apparent from its lunchtime crowd. Tavernas in Greek squares don’t usually attract in the heat of summer, so its the only place in the square that’s busy. A handwritten menu card of meat-heavy mains (oven-baked pork in orzo, oven-baked beef with mash and caramelised onions, goat with roasted potatoes) is small, but well-executed. …And to finish, a sublime shot of homemade liquor from geranium and cinnamon sealed our lasting impression. Unfortunately, they don’t make enough of this to sell.

— CAVO DEL MAR (MYRINA) —

The spacious waterfront strip is where you want to dine with children in Myrina. And when the kids chant for pizza, Cavo Del Mar treats you to decent Italian with a semi-elegant vibe to match. Any a fussy eater should find their match in a formidably large selection of pizzas, pastas, meats, and even salads.

— REMEZZO (PLAKA) —

Visiting the northern attractions of the island? Remezzo set in the wilderness of Plaka’s outskirts calms with heavy countryside silence. Traditional taverna favourites have a home cooked slant, with gigantes (giant beans), dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves), and beetroot salad on the menu. The kids opted for loukaniko (local sausage) having run out of burgers for the day, alternating with zucchini fries.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many benefits to staying in the port capital of Myrina, including the fortress attraction, the town and its amenities (AB Vassilopoulos, our go-to supermarket on the islands, bakeries, pharmacies and a playground), and a beach a little farther down.

But the seaside tranquility of Agios Ioannis 20 minutes away suited us better, with our favourite dining haunts, a mini mart, and evenings soaked in hypnotic views of the sun sinking behind Mount Athos. A scattering of apartment rentals line the beachfront with easy access to the sea. And in spite of new builds that keep mushrooming, the vibe is still thoroughly laid-back.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Throughout rolling hills of arid bushland and terracotta roofed villages, camouflaged military bunkers are scattered throughout. A solitary mass in the North Aegean seas, Limnos sits on the borders of Greece, facing Turkey in the horizon.

An island airport whisks travellers from Athens to Limnos in 45 minutes, although a 9-hour ferry ride is also possible. Closer are the north mainland ferry ports of Thessaloniki and Kavala, in addition to possible connections with neigbouring islands like Lesvos and Thassos.

Book a car rental as soon as you book your tickets, as providers are limited. Happy Rentals provided us with a brand new drive, and service we couldn’t complain about.

Sep 05, 2025 0 comment

Cyclades

Sifnos: The Gourmet Greek Island That’s Perfect for Young Families

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022

written by Lindsay

Dainty, dazzling and delicious, Sifnos is a soulful delight with a hint of posh.

In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays.

🏖️ 🤿 👨‍🌾 🥾 🏛️ 🏺

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its unique village charm.

But the island is a thumb-smudge of a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it really as impressive as some reviews suggest?

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a languid rhythm even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine barefoot wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough.

*The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.*

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Cloaked in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with guesthouses, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up great cocktails). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

We stayed at Miles Away, the beach just steps from our patio. Perfectly appointed and in a prime location, a few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, a bleary-eyed saunter to Palmira would get the day started with a wake-up brew. A few doors down at To Steki, we might break for a hearty lunch exemplary of traditional Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 another few doors away, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience that arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos

Lost bay beach bar, Platis Gialos, Sifnos

The mini market next to Omega3 catered to most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb.

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free . Bounded by towering mountains on each side, a portside buzz reverberates from the main road running through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

*The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares*.

THE SWIMMING SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne shores and aquamarine waters of Koufonisia and Naxos, the islands’ muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. While small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts promenade with fitted shirts and cropped pants.

As with many Greek mountain villages with innumerable steps to battle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit to avoid the heat. Like the shops and cafes that close for a 2pm to 5pm siesta, it’s a good idea to follow suit with a delayed nap so the kids can keep up with village children dashing around playgrounds and squares on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, the island’s ancient capital inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Home to Greece’s first celebrity chef, there are modern dining options that rival experienced counterparts in Santorini within its terraced and smartly cultivated mountainous terrain. But beyond deconstructed meals, an embellished reputation, and romantic accounts of sage and thyme scented air, truth be told, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and very good restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands.

So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools in haute-hip hotspots?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Initiating us into the island’s revered recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful at family-run To Steki was soul-warming, Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a play area of sandy shores lies below.

— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a beautiful lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, a little too early in Spring might mean many businesses have yet to open, or too late in Autumn and they have already shut for the season. The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos the boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can also fly into Mykonos (2 hours by fast ferry) or Milos (40-minuts by fast ferry). More island hopping itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO SIFNOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing from Pireaus port.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏇🏽 🦋 🎨 🏺 👨‍🌾 🏐

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white lychnite marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. At first glance, it can feel like a tourist-oriented jumble of ferry traffic, waterfront tavernas and souvenir shops. But venture beyond the harbour and you’ll discover an old town that has retained much of its village charm. Built atop a settlement dating back to the 2nd millennium BCE, fragments of its long history reveal themselves around unexpected corners, from ancient masonry incorporated into whitewashed buildings, to the three 18th-century Mavrogenous marble fountains that once served as a gathering place for locals. When it’s time for a pause, settle into Symposium for coffee and a crêpe. Perched slightly above the lane beneath a canopy of bougainvillea, it’s a lovely spot to linger and watch the world wander by.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If your ideal summer holiday is one of quiet languor, consider Alyki. Just a 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unspoilt little fishing village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (complete with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for striking sculptural vessels with graceful, fluid forms.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏐🏺 🎨 👨‍🌾 🐝🏇 ⛰️🏛️ִ

_{Last updated 23 Jul 2026}

Greece is blessed with an abundance of alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, itself conveniently close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach to swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (pottery workshops, “Farmer for a Day” experiences,, bee farm visits, horse-riding, even a waterpark, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

View towards Portara in Naxos — *The island’s icon, the Potara in the far distance is an easy walk from town.*

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system zips you from town to its main beach attractions.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars crammed in. In particular, I’d avoid Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit unpleasant smells.

*Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis*.

Moving south through Naxos’ fertile western lowlands, farmland gradually gives way to holiday homes set within generous gardens and open fields separated by tall bamboo hedges. Some are dotted with grazing cows, flocks of goats, and sheep huddled against drystone walls to hide from the midday sun —a veritable animal farm safari for the girls. Strict limits on what can be built on agricultural plots, or agrotemachia, have spared the area from dense coastal development, leaving tourist accommodation pleasantly dispersed across the landscape.

Feeding sheep in Naxos — Sheep eat bamboo leaves, it turns out.

In Plaka & Mikri Vigla, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. Mikri Vigla has the advantage of our favourite beach for family swims, while Plaka is 10 minutes closer to the Chora. Quieter than Plaka, Mikri Vigla is still complete with small supermarkets (we found Campos to be the most well-stocked in the area), bakeries (Naxos Bakery has an enticing selection of breads, cakes, ice-cream, and great coffee), a grill for pita gyros and pizzas, and traditional tavernas.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

Naxos Chora — *Naxos town. Photo by Efrem Efre*

The Chora is often the obvious choice for visitors wanting the convenience of a lively town . Naxos has a lovely one, generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, it’s just a 12-minute walk south to the beginning of the island’s magnificent sweep of sandy beaches. For us, however, there are two reasons to stay elsewhere. Parking is a constant stress point if you’re hiring a car, and with Naxos’s growing popularity, the Chora can feel overwhelmed during the height of summer, with crowds that take some of the shine off its charm.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— MARAGAS – pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Gently shelving and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Agios Prokopis is particularly stunning with shallower waters, but gets chaotically busy in summer for our liking. If you’re going to enjoy the waters here, we would head to the northern end by Molos cafe and taverna. It’s only a short walk from the nearby parking area, and the crowds thin noticeably, making for a far more relaxing section of the beach.

Sunbeds provided by Peppermint in Plaka
Dining at Peppermint
And a pool

Our preferred part lies south from Maragas – Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter. Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Peppermint has the kind of setup that can carry you through an entire day: sunbeds on the beach, a swimming pool for a break from salt water, and a spacious dining area where multiple strollers can be wheeled in endless laps until babies drift off to sleep. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the asphalt road to Mikri Vigla soon gives way to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow flurry of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and top pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than neighbouring Plaka, only a small section of the shoreline is “organised” with sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully undeveloped. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, it’s a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Do your kids enjoy a treasure hunt? Look for the Eye of Naxos as you comb the island’s sandy shores. These smooth, polished opercula of sea snails are symbols of good luck and often set into jewellery. We finally found our first, and then two more, at the small swimming bay of Mikri Vigla.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, once the capital and commercial heart of Naxos, is a delightful place to browse for locally crafted treasures. Its compact knot of picturesque lanes, lined with elegant neoclassical villas, hides an eclectic collection of galleries and artisan workshops. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

Just beyond Chalki, stop by Libertas Manolis’ pottery shop for handcrafted ceramics by a fourth-generation family of potters originally from Sifnos, Greece’s famed pottery island. Our girls delighted in water-filled whistling birds—a Montessori-friendly keepsake that pipes out a surprisingly lifelike birdsong—while ceramic pomegranates, a Greek symbol of good fortune and prosperity, make elegant artisan souvenirs to take home.

Manolis also offers pottery workshops (send a whatsapp message to +30 698 599 5451 to arrange) for children and adults. For younger participants (around nine or ten years old), an introductory experience lasting 30 minutes should suffice. As he candidly explains, it’s more about letting children discover the basics of the craft, with much of the shaping still guided by himself.

— f i l o t i —

Spread across the verdant slopes beneath Mount Zeus, Filoti—once the island’s commercial heart—is the largest village on Naxos. Life centres around the leafy square of Gefyra, where cafés spill out beneath towering plane trees. Once tranquil, the main road skirting the square has now become a busy bottleneck of traffic in the height of summer.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Beyond Filoti lies Apeiranthos, a striking mountain village hewn from the marble that surrounds it. Perched 600 metres above sea level on the slopes of Mount Fanari, its stone-paved lanes weave between centuries-old houses, where cafés and tavernas pepper every corner. Many open onto terraces with sweeping views across Naxos’s rugged interior—the perfect setting to linger over coffee, crêpes or a leisurely lunch.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece

Our recent visit made it clear just how much tourism has grown in Naxos over the past two years. Once a sleepy village, Apeiranthos now bustles with visitors. By 2:30 p.m., almost every taverna along its marble streets was full, with a queue of hungry diners waiting for a table.

In search of respite, we ducked down a flight of stone steps to the hidden courtyard of O Lefteris. Tucked away from the crowds beneath the lacework of light cast by a spreading walnut tree, this traditional taverna offered a welcome pocket of calm. The food delivered, but the painfully slow service tested the patience of many a table around us—perhaps an inevitable side effect of the village’s newfound popularity.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages are one of the joys summer days. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands sentinel at one end – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. The reward? Homemade ice-cream from Aktion on the main waterfront, or profiteroles from Chou Chouro If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind if you’re going to navigate the backstreets of the main town.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

At the same time, dining in the thick of town can feel confined for young wanderers. If you prefer settings nestled in nature, where the kids can scamper within sight while you nurse an ouzo, we’ve rounded up some special finds here.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and hottest months) I try to avoid as far as possible.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. If you’re flying in from Europe, you can also use the international airports at Mykonos or Santorini as a point of arrival instead of Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr