Lefkada’s draw is exceptional beach beauty. But is it for everyone?
Fringed by scores of sensational beaches, such concentration of extraordinary coastal beauty in one island almost seems unreal. Also known as “Lefkas” (“white” in Greek), Lefkada’s shores are famous for milky hues that meet absurdly blue beauty. Then framed by vertiginous cliff-faces, these are the makings of mythic island paradises where steep descents down wood and rope staircases reward the brave with a spectacle of nature.
While enticing, the best of these dramatic coasts are difficult to access. Particularly with a baby on one hip, a toddler gripping your opposing hand, and a backpack of water, fruit and beach gear. It’s the eastern shoreline that families tend to settle on, with flatter coastal edges, shallow shores, and sheltered waters. Hardly as exciting, and missing the main point of Lefkada.
And what of its off-beach draws? Having just come from the Cyclades, I pined after graphic villages to roam after long afternoons on the beach. Agios Nikitas, Lefkada’s prettiest, is a single, busy walkway that feels a tad over-touristy. Its mountainous hinterland village scene? Slightly over sleepy. And the capital? Most of its old town was lost to successive earthquakes in 1948 and 1953. Left to re-build, the result is an anarchic cross between a Brazilian backstreet and a neon-lit soi in Bangkok (the Thai bit is particularly accentuated around the waterfront corner).
For me, Lefkada is not an island for enchanting villages. Lefkada is for beach lovers. If you’re the type to cross continents in search of sublime shores, this is the Greek island for you, with older children in your company.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
With young kids and many mini market trips to make, it always easier to live close to a village. Consider these two:
— AGIOS NIKITAS —
Easily the most attractive village in the island, a main stone-paved pathway lined with apartments-to-rent, souvenir shops and tavernas lead you to a cozy beach cove with sparkling blue waters that are perfectly child-friendly. If you can find seaside accommodation here, this will give you a head start for a spot on the beach before the crowds arrive. At the same time, as a central draw for the island’s visitors, it’s easy to run into your neighbours here. Dodge the congestion by staying on the outskirts. Perhaps higher up in the hills above dreamy Milos beach where some villas have direct access to the elusive sand strip below.
— NIKIANA —
Skip Nidri. Nikiana’s quaint waterfront is less busy, relaxed, complete with mini-marts and a clutch of cafes, tavernas, and the stylish new NV beach bar, in addition to more swimming bays nearby.
THE BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY BEACHES
You don’t have to miss out on all of the stunning, but sometimes daunting, stretches of Lefkada’s dreamiest west side beaches, even if you’ve come with tots in tow. While Egremni is probably not a good idea, and getting to Milos comes with a little more adventure (take a boat taxi departing from Agios Nikitas beach to avoid the 20-minute trek), we’ve included hospitable choices that are just as impressive.
Especially if you’re visiting the exposed west, check a wind app for the direction and strength of the wind for the beach you’re considering on the day of your trip. Too wavy, and you’re better off heading to a calmer bay (e.g. Agios Nikitas) or a sheltered spot on the eastern coast.
— PEFKOULIA —
Delightfully unchallenging, yet thoroughly impressive, this long sweep of part-organised, part-free beach delivers on the Lefkadian promise of bluer-than-blue waters and white pebbly shores. Backed by a lush green mountainscape, the scent of pine surrounds as you sunbathe on its shores. It’s thoroughly more relaxed here than on packed-out Kathisma with its mega beach clubs. Also close to Agios Nikitas, you can drop-in for an evening walk later. Deck pool bar and restaurant supplies drinks and snack type foods, but also has a full menu of traditional favourites like pastitsio and moussaka.
— PORTO KATSIKI —
With a name that translates to “goat port”, I was concerned about taking the kids down a beach only goats could previously reach. Now, there are 100 stairs. And it turns out that 100 stairs is hardly tiring at all, even for the semi-fit. While the beach has no amenities, there are three shops at the entryway with fast food, refreshment, beach mats, floats, umbrellas and other last-minute purchases you might need. Arrive before 1pm and you might be able to steal some shade under the shadow of towering rocks that crown the beach. After that, the shaded portion quickly recedes. While the beach will be filled with a rainbow of umbrellas covering the entirety of its shore in the peak of summer, somehow, the crowds get lost in the presence of such majestic beauty, and nature envelopes all. Parking is a challenge, but not overly difficult. The easiest option is to pay for spot (€10) right by the entrance. Otherwise, free parking is available along the road father up the hill.
— DESIMI —
Desimi is different. In the blue-green kind of way more reminiscent of beaches in the Sporades. Flanked by lush green forests, there’s a handful of tavernas and cafes supplying ice creams and coffees. An “unorganised” beach without umbrellas and parasols, you will have to find shade under the trees that back its shores. The highlight for us – Dessimi boats rent out sea pedal boats for €20 an hour. Explore sea caves and peddle out to secret spits of beach you can dock at for a splash in your private bit of sea.
WHERE TO DINE WITH KIDS
Where can you dine deliciously while your toddler runs a riot through grassy lawns and pebbly shores?
— OASIS TAVERN (Athani) —
Sprawling over an elevated green studded with towering pine trees above, this tavern’s location above the lookout point for Egremni is hard to miss. Such a precious spot also happens to go hand-in-hand with excellent food. Succulent lamb, a stand-out moussaka, beef stifado, and chicken ala crème crowd-pleaser (with fries) devoured by the girls. As you wait for your meal, a toy-filled sand pit draws them happily away to leave you in a moment of Zen. There’s more – swings and a slide peek out from the foilafe of a mini playground steps below. It’s the kind of set-up that encourages families to linger.
— ELENI TAVERNA (Karya) —
A small family-run taverna in a quiet corner under Karya square’s plane trees, a menu of familiar favourites with some secret recipe type execution continue to impress even the most restaurant-tired taste buds. There’s ample space for the kids to have a dash around between empty tables if you go early (i.e. not Greek timing) – we sat next to a large tree which they circled for 20 minutes, beam balancing on the short wall enclosing it. Head to the Folklore Museum in advance if you’re looking for more ways to spend sunny afternoons off-beach.
— TAVERNA PANTAZIS (Nikiana) —
On the east coast of Lefkada and its child friendly coves, Pantazis found an idyllic seafront spot where you can dine with pebbles between your toes. They get busy after 8pm, so call in ahead to reserve a table on the beach. Seafood is the highlight, although we were happier with our meat dishes – pork in wine sauce, and a lamb stamna. Take a leisurely stroll around the mini marina after.
GETTING THERE
Lefkada is one of three islands in Greece you can drive to by car (the other two being Evia and Elafonissos). From Athens, a scenic coastal highway dotted with points of interest (like Corinth) will take you there in four hours. Alternatively, an airport in Preveza is located 30 minutes from Lefkada. Planning a Greek island hopping itinerary? Lefkada has frequent ferry connections with Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Ithaca and Paxi.
WHEN TO VISIT
Like most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from May to October. July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months to travel in, so we try to avoid these months in particular. By winter, life on Lefkada dwindles down to its population of 22,000 locals. The main town of Lefkas stays open, along with some hotels and tavernas, while island adventures focus more on forest hikes and mountain village wanders.
