If you’re interested in the Saronic islands, it’s probably mostly for convenience. The closest group of islands to the mainland, these Athenian weekend retreats offer more than just that. Harbouring the holiday homes of politicians, artists, writers and the wealthy, many have vibrant villages with a dash of cosmopolitan glamour.
THE ISLANDS
Listed in order of closeness to Pireaus port with high-speed ferry travel times in parenthesis:
- Aegina (40 minutes) – Once a maritime power that minted Greece’s earliest coins, it was also the first capital of modern Greece. Now, Aegina is more about picturesque harbour hangouts, not-bad beaches, and beautiful coastal walks against a backdrop of stunning sunsets. It’s hallmarks: pistachio orchards aplenty, and the impressive 500 BCE hilltop Temple of Aphaia.
- Agistri (55 minutes) – A popular day-trip destination, Agistri draws sun seekers with beautiful beach bays backed by pine tree forests. Bike rentals are available on the island, and are a good way to explore this smallest of the Saronic.
- Poros (1 hour) – Made of two islands that have become one, the island’s only town is a lively one. Its idyllic waterfront is lined with neoclassical mansions, shops, taverns and cafes designed for three hour sips with the calm of the sea in view. Poros doesn’t have spectacular beaches to boast, but you will find clean and clear waters, and the organised convenience of sunbeds and shade.
- Hydra (1 hour 30 minutes) – A one-town wonder, Hyrda is built on an arid rock that is mostly uninhabitable. Cars and bicycles are banned, so amble alongside the company of donkeys through back lanes graced with elegant mansions, art galleries, cafes and museums. Without sandy beaches, small pebbly coves meet crystal waters for the mandatory Greek summer non-activity. Or simply jump off a rock outcrop for dips and dives.
- Spetses (1 hour 50 minutes) – Dubbed the Monaco of Greece, stylish Spetses (pictured here) is a popular hideaway for affluent Athenians. Hip bars, polished boutiques and chic cafes dot its seafront harbour, anchored by the Poseidonion Grand Hotel. Unless you’re a resident, cars are not allowed on the island, so be prepared for transport on horse-drawn carriages, scooters, or bicycles to take you through its pine-tree carpeted interiors.
Lastly, often excluded from these lists, is Salamina – the largest and closest of the isles. The Hellenic naval base has a reputation slightly marred by its heavy industries. The name may sound familiar, however, because of the Battle of Salamis against the Persians that changed history. Inquisitive adventurers can take a 10 minute ride from Perama port city in Pireaus for a daytrip.
GETTING THERE
All without airports, a ferry from Athen’s Pireaus port is the usual manner of getting to the Saronic islands. Some will have other connections with smaller ports off the Peloponnese (e.g. Ermioni and Porto Heli – itself an attractive seaside town from where you can get to Spetses in 10 minutes), in addition to links with neighbouring islands. Ferryhopper’s destination guide maps are a good tool for viewing all the ports an island is connected with.