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Best Beaches

Greek isles with the bluest waters and/or the most uniquely appealing characteristics we have seen

Island Wilderness and Wildlings – A Guide to Karpathos with Kids

by Lindsay Sep 02, 2023

written by Lindsay

Kyria Panagia Beach in Karpathos, Greece

Adrift off the southwestern reaches of Greece, Karpathos is remote. With a view towards North Africa in the distant horizon, what does this far-flung and little-known island have to offer?

The iridescent colours of its Instagram beach images first lured us. Along with a reputation for windsurfing, and romantic stories of mountain villages akin to living museums untouched by time. In spite of its impressive roster of attractions, you will still hear little of Karpathos. But as steadily as the asphalt road to Olympus completed in the 1970s, luxe villas are beginning a creep from its crystalline shoreline.

After exiting the airport, continuous blasts of wind remind us that we have arrived in wilderness. This is what makes the island the best windsurfing spot in Greece. It’s also why you will be a little hard-pressed to find child-friendly swimming on the island. At the same time, as we zig-zag through the craggy rockscapes of lofty mountains and azure seas below, the beauty of this land is immediately captivating. Combined with some well-researched choices, Karpathos can be a beautiful and easy adventure with kids.

Trees in Karpathos — So windy on Karpathos its trees grow sideways

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

While the island is not huge, travel times are made longer by winding roads through its mountainous spine. I was slightly taken aback when I discovered that visiting Olympos, the island’s main village of interest, was going to require an hour’s drive from our apartment rental in Amoopi.

Stay where your main interests revolve. With young children among us, ours reliably surround the beach, shifting our focus on the southeastern bit of the island.

— AMOOPI SEASIDE VILLAGE —

Palm tree studded Amoopi is my pick for where to stay with young children, just a 10-minute drive from the conveniences of Pigadia port. Entirely touristy, but relaxed, picturesque, and complete with tavernas and mini-marts.

Dimitrios Fishermans Taverna in Amoopi Karpathos Greece — Dimitrios Fisherman’s Taverna set above the sparkling shores of Amoopi

Two sparkling bays sit a short walk from each other, with the cutest Cycladic church sitting prettily in blue and white on a headland outcrop. The beaches crowd out quickly. Which is why it’s a particularly good idea to live nearby (Onar beach house and Nymfes boutique resort occupy stellar spots) – snag a sunbed at 9-ish in the morning, and return after the kids have taken an hour to finish their eggs at home.

— PIGADIA PORT? —

The benefits of living in and island’s main town are always attractive for families. And while Pigadia port is convenient, it’s not the prettiest. The waterfront stretch and lane running parallel behind offers the usual charms of most Greek villages, but the built-up area behind leads into concrete volumes of ’80s pensions and a messy assembly of apartment blocks.

St George's Church in Pigadi, Karpathos Greece — Light a candle in St George’s Church in Pigadi, just behind the waterfront

Still, we spent many nights in Pigadia. Insider tips: If you’re dropping in for dinner and groceries, Ariadne supermarket in the center is open until 11 pm ( the usual time is 9 pm), so you can complete dinner, get your groceries and return home. Of the 3 pharmacies here, we found Taskirigou a little further up and past St George’s church the most well-equipped.

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH BAYS

Blustery winds play a big role in enjoying the beach in Karpathos (or not). The Aegean’s “meltemi” winds blow from the northwest in summer, turning the western shoreline into a fierce frenzy of wind-whipped waves.

The island’s eastern shores harbour calmer waters, with the meltemi blowing from land to sea. On this covetable stretch, coastal beauties cater to every beach style. In the north, pebbly, pine tree framed waters in exotic turquoise and deep blue hues. Moving south, Caribbean-like bays feature sandy and shallow waters that stretch out for great lengths. Our favourite pool-like enclaves are found here.

Damatria beach in Karpathos, Greece — The shallow waters of dazzling Damatria

Bring strong beach towel clips, and perhaps bath robes (which stay on better) instead of towels for little tots. In the peak of summer, sunbeds and shade are hard to secure. So be disciplined – make an early start, or prepare to visit late (around 5pm) as the crowds retire. Still can’t find a spot? Throw your towel down onto the beach with just a few more hours till sunset. Lastly, goggles or snorkel masks are worth their luggage space. From wide-eyed flounder skimming over a seabed dotted with hermit crabs to the long snouted cornetfish, Karpathos teems with abundant sea life.

OLYMPOS

Still in touch with the traditions of a forgotten time, Olympos is an encounter with life lost to modernity. Previously difficult to reach, access now is easy. An asphalt road offers a smooth but snaking cliffside drive that requires caution. There are hairpin turns throughout (not a fun ride for the car-sick prone), dual lanes merging into single lanes, and falling rocks which have knocked off parts of the road’s protective rails. Wild goat sightings get more frequent as you close in on Olympos, and never fail to excite the kids.

There were fewer tourists than I imagined when we arrived at 4 p.m. A hot time to be exploring any Greek village in July (even from these heights), but its narrow walkways are mostly shaded.

“Living museum”, as it is often described, is perhaps a slightly romanticised encapsulation. Still, Olympos is an especially charming Greek village. Cloaked in the sentimentality of things past, yiayia (Greek for grandmother) continues to crochet traditional headscarves for tourists to don. In a female-centered village (often described as a matriarchy) following an exodus of work-seeking men, she had to develop self-sufficiency on the isolated mountain top (without electricity until 1970) in the neighbouring fields of Avlonas. Fierce keepers of their Byzantine heritage, she must have so many stories to tell. For a more than superficial experience of the village and it’s traditions, take a guided visit with Ecotourism Karpathos.

Exploring Olympos Village in Karpathos Greece — Exploring village walkways and enjoying the bright colours of artisan handicrafts

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Rock climbing, trekking, windsurfing, boat trips to Saria and Kasos, Karpathos has lots to offer older children and teens wanting to try their hand at a variety of sports.

Chicken bay is the beginners windsurfing playground, where our younger girls splashed around in shallow, crystal waters, watching dad at his lessons every morning.

DINING WITH KIDS

After seven days of circling the island for a good meal, I’m going to put it out there – Karpathos has a lackluster dining scene. For us, that is. Menus tended to repeat a small selection of the same dishes, and execution was somehow always lacking – too much bahari (a local spice), too little salt… Just very unlike the luscious meals the Greek islands usually spoil us with in our journeys. Perhaps it’s because they mainly cater to tourists – you find few Greeks from Greece in these way-out parts. Or maybe we just continuously made a poor selection of choices. Here is our selection of better dining experiences with great ambience to make-up for flavour.

— LIFE OF ANGELS (PIGADI) —

The best spot in portside Pigadi for a meal is not right by the busy waterfront and its line of moussaka-touting tavernas, but one level above at Life of Angels. The sun-speckled yard with a bamboo thatched roof draped over with grape vines has a full view of the sea. For full cover from the afternoon sun, head through the indoor area and out into the covered balcony (with limited seating). It’s a pure experience with a history going back to the mid-1800’s. Owner Zoe’s mom makes the bread, uses organic ingredients sourced locally, sharing recipes passed down from her family’s kitchen. The roast chicken thigh with rice with tomato-flavoured rice saw the kids having their most successful meal on the island.

Life of Angels tavern in Pigadia, Karpathos Greece — With a history that goes back to the 1800s, Life of Angels has the best spot in Pigadi

— FINIKI MAMA CUISINE —

In the middle of the quiet family beach of Finiki, the eatery under a thatched roof of dried palm tree leaves is buzzing. Mama’s spin on traditional seafood favourites (fancy a hint of curry in the shrimp pasta?) refreshes tired taste buds. While there isn’t a lot of space for fidgety kids, there’s a beach right in front for a walk or run mid-meal.

Mamas Tavern, Finiki, Karpathos, Greece — Seafood by the sea at Mama’s

— UNDER THE TREE —

Under the Tree is perfectly placed with swathes of space opening up into the sea one level below. Dipped in gold, it’s magic at sunset. The menu is a simple, no-nonsense selection of grilled meat and seafood. The tables fill quickly from 7 pm (a few visitors were turned away without reservations), but the service is also brisk.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We visited in August, but Elias, our Airbnb host, mentions the best time to visit is in September. With its southerly location, like Crete, the sea is still warm in September and perhaps October. The sun is also less intense, the days, less windy, and you won’t have trouble finding sunbeds on the beach, or parking in Pigadia.

HOW TO GET THERE

Unless you’re happy to take a 14-hour ferry trip from Athens, it’s likely you’re flying into Karpathos. There are also international flights from Italy, Belgium and other European destinations. Otherwise, you can combine it with an itinerary including Crete and Rhodos – its only near neighbours.

Sep 02, 2023 0 comment

Ionian Islands

Why (and Why Not) Lefkada: Is the Island and its Spectacular Beaches Fit for All?

by Lindsay Aug 26, 2022

written by Lindsay

Lefkada’s draw is exceptional beach beauty. But is it for everyone?

Fringed by scores of sensational beaches, such concentration of extraordinary coastal beauty in one island almost seems unreal. Also known as “Lefkas” (“white” in Greek), Lefkada’s shores are famous for milky hues that meet absurdly blue beauty. Then framed by vertiginous cliff-faces, these are the makings of mythic island paradises where steep descents down wood and rope staircases reward the brave with a spectacle of nature.

While enticing, the best of these dramatic coasts are difficult to access. Particularly with a baby on one hip, a toddler gripping your opposing hand, and a backpack of water bottles, fruit and beach gear. It’s the eastern shoreline that families tend to settle on, with flatter coastal edges, shallow shores, and sheltered waters. Hardly as exciting, and really missing the point of Lefkada.

*Thrilling Egremni is hard to leave, in many ways . Getting there involves a 1 km hike and a 400-stair descent.*

And what of its off-beach attractions? Having just come from the Cyclades, I pined after graphic villages to roam after long afternoons on the beach. Agios Nikitas, Lefkada’s prettiest, is a single, busy walkway that feels a tad over-touristy. Its mountainous hinterland village scene? Slightly over sleepy. And the capital? Most of its old town was lost to successive earthquakes in 1948 and 1953. Left to re-build, the result is an anarchic cross between a Brazilian backstreet and a neon-lit soi in Bangkok (the Thai bit particularly accentuated around the waterfront corner). For me, Lefkada is not an island for enchanting villages. Lefkada is for beach lovers. If you’re the type to cross continents in search of sublime shores, this is the Greek island for you, especially with older children in your company.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With young kids and many mini market trips to make, it always easier to live close by a village. Consider these two:

— AGIOS NIKITAS —

Easily the most attractive village in the island, a main stone-paved pathway lined with apartments-to-rent, souvenir shops and tavernas lead you to a cozy beach cove with sparkling blue waters that are perfectly child-friendly. If you can find seaside accommodation here, this will give you a valuable head start for a spot on the beach before the crowds arrive. A central draw for the island’s visitors, it’s easy to step over your neighbours here. To dodge the congestion, stay on the outskirts. Perhaps higher up in the hills above dreamy Milos beach where some villas have direct access to the elusive sand strip below.

At the end of Agios Nikita’s main walkway, you will find the beach.
Protected, calm, and child-friendly, but also crowded. The water taxis to Milos beach dock here.

— NIKIANA —

Skip Nidri. Nikiana’s quaint waterfront is less busy, relaxed, complete with mini-marts and a clutch of cafes, tavernas, and the stylish new NV beach bar, in addition to more swimming bays nearby.

THE BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY BEACHES

You don’t have to miss out on all of the stunning, but sometimes daunting, stretches of Lefkada’s dreamiest west side beaches, even if you’ve come with tots in tow. While Egremni is probably not a good idea, and getting to Milos comes with a little more adventure (take a boat taxi departing from Agios Nikitas beach to avoid the 20-minute trek), we’ve included hospitable choices that are just as impressive.

Especially if you’re visiting the exposed west, check a wind app for the direction and strength of the wind for the beach you’re considering on the day of your visit. Too wavy, and you’re better off heading to a calmer bay (e.g. Agios Nikitas) or a sheltered spot on the eastern coast.

— PEFKOULIA —

Delightfully unchallenging, yet thoroughly impressive, this long sweep of part-organised, part-free beach delivers on the Lefkadian promise of bluer-than-blue waters and white pebbly shores. Backed by a lush green mountainscape, the scent of pine surrounds as you sunbathe on its shores. It’s thoroughly more relaxed here than on packed-out Kathisma with its mega beach clubs. Also close to Agios Nikitas, you can drop-in for an evening walk later. Deck pool bar and restaurant supplies drinks and snack type foods, but also has a full menu of traditional favourites like pastitsio and moussaka.

— PORTO KATSIKI —

With a name that translates to “goat port”, I was concerned about taking the kids down a beach only goats could previously reach. Now, there are 100 stairs. And it turns out that 100 stairs is hardly tiring at all, even for the semi-fit. While the beach has no amenities, there are three shops at the entryway with fast food, refreshment, beach mats, floats, umbrellas and other last-minute purchases you might need. Arrive before 1pm and you might be able to steal some shade under the shadow of towering rocks that crown the beach. After that, the shaded portion quickly recedes. While the beach will be filled with a rainbow of umbrellas covering the entirety of its shore in the peak of summer, somehow, the crowds get lost in the presence of such majestic beauty, and nature envelopes all. Parking is a challenge, but not overly difficult. The easiest option is to pay for spot (€10) right by the entrance. Otherwise, free parking is available along the road father up the hill.

Porto Katsiki’s towering rocks provide natural shade until about 1 p.m..
100 stairs down …

— DESIMI —

Desimi is different. In the blue-green kind of way more reminiscent of beaches in the Sporades. Flanked by lush green forests, there’s a handful of tavernas and cafes supplying ice creams and coffees. An “unorganised” beach without umbrellas and parasols, you will have to find shade under the trees that back its shores. The highlight for us – Dessimi boats rent out sea pedal boats for €20 an hour. Explore sea caves and peddle out to secret spits of beach you can dock at for a splash in your private bit of sea.

Turquoise beauty in Desimi.
Exploring.
Found a near private beach!

WHERE TO DINE WITH KIDS

Where can you dine deliciously while your toddler runs a riot through grassy lawns and pebbly shores?

— OASIS TAVERN (Athani) —

Sprawling over an elevated green studded with towering pine trees above, this tavern’s location above the lookout point for Egremni is hard to miss. Such a precious spot also happens to go hand-in-hand with excellent food. Succulent lamb, a stand-out moussaka, beef stifado, and chicken ala crème crowd-pleaser (with fries) devoured by the girls. As you wait for your meal, a toy-filled sand pit draws them happily away to leave you in a moment of Zen. There’s more – swings and a slide peek out from the foilafe of a mini playground steps below. It’s the kind of set-up that encourages families to linger.

The most family-friendly tavern we ever did see.

— ELENI TAVERNA (Karya) —

A small family-run taverna in a quiet corner under Karya square’s plane trees, a menu of familiar favourites with some secret recipe type execution continue to impress even the most restaurant-tired taste buds. There’s ample space for the kids to have a dash around between empty tables if you go early (i.e. not Greek timing) – we sat next to a large tree which they circled for 20 minutes, beam balancing on the short wall enclosing it. Head to the Folklore Museum in advance if you’re looking for more ways to spend sunny afternoons off-beach.

Under the plane trees of Karya village square is Eleni Taverna – one of the best eats on the island.
Take a stroll through the village after.

— TAVERNA PANTAZIS (Nikiana) —

On the east coast of Lefkada and its child friendly coves, Pantazis found an idyllic seafront spot where you can dine with pebbles between your toes. They get busy after 8 p.m., so call in ahead to reserve a table on the beach. Seafood is the highlight, although we were happier with our meat dishes – pork in wine sauce, and a lamb stamna. Take a leisurely stroll around the mini marina after.

Taverna Pantazis in Nikiana, Lefkada — *Waterfront dining at Pantazis if you’re on the east coast*

GETTING THERE

Lefkada is one of three islands in Greece you can drive to by car (the others being Evia and Elafonissos). From Athens, a scenic coastal highway dotted with points of interest (like Corinth) will take you there in four hours. Alternatively, an airport in Preveza is located 30 minutes from Lefkada. Planning a Greek island hopping itinerary? Lefkada has frequent ferry connections with Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Ithaca and Paxi.

Nidri village in Lefkada — *The port at Nidri has ferry boats to Fiskardo in Kefalonia.*

Aug 26, 2022 0 comment

Ionian Islands

Kefalonia: The All-Rounded Greek Island For Kids of All Ages

by Lindsay Aug 13, 2022

written by Lindsay

With history, culture and adventure for everyone, cinematic Kefalonia is a low-key island offering next-level experiences.

Kefalonia is the Ionian girl with everything. Beautifully manicured, rolling hills of pine, palm, and cypress peppered with terracotta-roofed estates recalls the charm of the Tuscan countryside. Naturally gifted, coastal jewels, striking caves, and lofty Mount Ainos count as enviable physical assets. It even has historical and cultural depth. Steeped in myth, its land is scattered with a spectrum of ruins. Paleolithic tools suggest habitation from the Old Stone Age, while Iron Age cemeteries indicate it was a flourishing Mycenaean center. There are also Archaean treasures, a scattering of Roman baths and villas, and more recent vestiges from Venetian and English rule.

*Iconnic Melissani is best visited at noon when sunlight directly falls through its cavity*

In spite of its wealth of attractions and fleeting moment of Hollywood fame, Kefalonia remains relatively under-the-radar. While a seasoned tourist destination, it is not yet marred by extensive resort chains aside from those in southerly Skala. Instead, smart boutique villas sit alongside elegant massage spas and organic farm-to-fork tavernas. It also rarely feels crowded, unless you’re in hotspots like Platis Gialos beach, queuing to see Melissani, or roaming Fiskardo when a boat arrival has disgorged its passengers.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

We spent hours pouring over where to stay to avoid insufferable travel times in the car with kids. Up north with the island’s dramatic pin-up sights (including Myrtos beach and Assos village)? The western Paliki peninsula? Or its southwestern coast (starting from Lourdata towards the capital of Argostoli) with its sandy and child-friendly bays?

Perhaps quite predictably, we settled for the last option, in the little-known village of Vlahata. Yet ended up having morning coffees in neighbouring Lourdata so often we’d seek accommodation there the next time around.

*Lourdata beach on calm mornings shows off surreal shades of mystic grey sand and aquamarine*

Lourdata is a seaside village with a drizzle of boutique hotels, tavernas, and cafes. There’s significant benefit in staying steps from the sea, especially when scorching summer months rule out swimming from 11am to 4pm. And the beach at Lourdata is a lovely one. Particularly in the mornings when its aquamarine waters are calm, sparkling as they dapple over mystic grey sand.

There are many other options, of course. And while we enjoy spontaneity in our escapes, this is an island that benefits from thorough research and a planned itinerary before deciding on where to stay.

THE BEACH SCENE

Kefalonia’s coastal attractions are varied and impressive. More enticing is the fact that the island’s famous beaches with dramatic scenery are not out-of-reach for families. Myrtos is easily accessible by car, and organised with sunbeds and parasols. Yet, exposed to strong winds (always a good thing to check before beach visits), feisty waves and an abruptly dropping seabed can hamper young swimmers. Petani has a similar set-up, but is better organised with two tavernas, a bar, and watersports to offer.

On the sandy southwest coast, so plentiful are the child-friendly coves to choose from, we needed more than a week to exhaust the options. The farther south you head (towards Mounda and Kamina), the higher your chances of finding nesting grounds where caretta turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Boxed off to protect the endangered species, they only hatch at night, but it’s an exciting sight, nonetheless.

*Turtle nesting spots on Ai Helis beach, marked out and protected by conservation groups like Wildlife Sense*

And then there’s Xi – a strange looking place with orange sand backed by white clay cliffs. Beach-goers in search of a spa treat slather themselves in its therapeutic clay soil. It also has a family draw, with shallow shores and an organised (i.e. with sunbeds and parasols) section. We round up our family favourites here.

OFF-BEACH ATTRACTIONS

Beyond the beach, Kefalonia’s list of attractions reads like a veritable theme park offering: In Sami are the famed caves of Melissani and Dogarati you can donkey trek to. Take a jeep safari adventure or hike up to Mount Ainos’ summit for a view from the Ionian’s highest peak. Dias in the southwest conducts apiary tours where you can don a suit and hold a frame of live bees. Got binoculars? Go bird spotting in the Livadi marshlands. Not to forget castle explorations at the Venetian fortification in Assos and Saint George’s castle outside Argostoli. There’s even zooland – a mini zoo and Odyssey-themed park in one.

The waterfront promenade at Argostoli.

Thankfully for us, small children get easily excited about simple things. Like watching fishermen reel in their catch on the world’s largest oversea stone bridge in Argostoli. We went in search of the carettas that wander the lagoon, staring intensely into its waters as we walked the bridge. I spotted one for a precious three seconds. But of course, it disappeared long before the kids could catch onto why I was waving fanatically at them. Instead, they found joy in watching little crabs crawl up the bridge walls. You might have better luck if you rise early enough to watch them gather around the fishermen’s boat that dock alongside the promenade, lured by free food.

Flattened by the Ionian earthquake in 1953, Argostoli was rebuilt as a large, modern town. Pedestrian-only Lithostroto one parallel behind the waterfront promenade is where the main shopping happens. Walk its length northwards and you will reach Platia Vallianou – a large square bordered by cafés where you can enjoy a latte while the kids have a run.

*Fiskardo is best explored in the evening, when the summer sun is less intense and the boat arrivals have ceased*

For an experience of traditional Greek village beauty, Fiskardo and Assos up north (an hour’s drive from Argostoli) are the most attractive on the island. Full of pastel prettiness and Venetian charm, bustling Fiskardo is the buzzier and more fashionable of the two. A historic harbour that escaped the earthquake of 1953, tourist-geared updates have tinged it with cosmopolitan chic. And while Assos was not so lucky, French benefactors, in love with the village, helped with restoration efforts after the earthquake. Take a hot hike up to the castle, then cool off in the village beach cove after.

DINING WITH KIDS

The right environment is nearly as important as what we are eating when we dine out with kids. Give us wide-open spaces, softly-padded grounds, a failsafe pasta menu entry, and clean toilets, and dining happiness is made. Here are our top such finds on the island.

— DROSOS (PORTO ATHERAS BEACH) —

Set in secluded Porto Atheras, this humble taverna with the beach to itself is all we love about Greek island dining. Honest, simple, friendly (without being overly friendly), and where the full, unadulterated flavours of basic ingredients are artfully drawn out. And then there’s the garden outside. So spacious, it even inspired an American dad to throw a yoga rug on the grass for an acrobatic show performed alongside his two children, while members of their larger group circled around. Everyone feels free here.

— PSARAGATOS (AMMES BEACH) —

Perched solitarily above Ammes beach, I was drawn to Psaragatos and its envious vistas as we drove by. Surrounded by lush gardens artfully adorned with white pottery, parasol-shaded tables sit poised for sunset. While seafood is the highlight, the one dish we kept stealing spoons from was the Bekri Meze – succulent chunks of flavoursome pork tenderloin served over rice.

— ALEXANDROS (DIVARATA, CLOSE TO MYRTOS) —

If you’re exploring the island’s northern highlights, Alexandros might be off a main road, but feels far removed from its busyness on its valley-facing balcony. Relaxed, ambient and abundantly spacious, a menu of traditional favourites presents heart-warming fare at reasonable prices.

HOW TO GET THERE

With an international airport outside Argostoli, Kefalonia is within easy reach. If you’re coming from the mainland, ferry ports connect the island to Patras and Kyllini. Island hopping? There are also direct crossings to Lefkada, Ithaca, Zakynthos, Corfu, and other Ionian islands.

Aug 13, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

Greece is replete with alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of the kind of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets holiday with kids, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for the lazier among us.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

— chora (main town) —

The Greek “Chora” is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

— pLAKA —

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we avoid the Chora. As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, cluttered by one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d advise staying clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a stylish selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Admittedly, this is not for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but I was lured by the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato on repeat. A few doors down is Yazoo – polished, standing out with prettily plated, creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, and none of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an aquatic adventurer’s joy. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s south beach – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a short slice of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is unobscured by rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment is settled at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach. Happily, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats, shades, and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades are filled with interesting finds. There’s Valindras distillery, the oldest in Naxos producing the island’s famed citron liquer. Era, a jam making workshop, specialises in Greece’s famous “spoon sweets” (syrupy fruit preserves). The highlight for us is Fish and Olive – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by a very talented Katharina Bolesch, then embellished with ethereal fish motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt, these are souvenirs to treasure.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and their friends. Fill with water and blow to produce a delightful twittering sound, still pleasant on the ears even after the hundredth time.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Naxos old town, Greece — *Old town walks*.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for an idyllic sunset view. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

If you snag a chance to continue the night with cocktails and pretend to be cool again, move onto the harbourside veranda of 520 Bar and Restaurant. We had managed to leave baby with yiayia (Greek for grandma) on this occasion, which may have helped the oddly perfect progression of the evening.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee scampering kids as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Stellar such spots in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable here. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites and succulent seafood.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from its beachfront tables is a bit of magic. Paradiso has a wide selection of “cooked food”. A term that confused me initially, my Greek husband clarified that it refers to the type of food mom would cook at home. Perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds, fussy little eaters can survey the spread of ready-made (and quick to serve) options on a buffet-like display before making their selection.

Paradiso Restaurant Beachfront — *Beachside dining at Paradiso*.

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, Naxos doesn’t get unbearably busy in general, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can also retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this tiny Cycladic dream.

Last updated 27 June 2023

(Pano or Ano) Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, some very good tavernas, comfortable aparthotels, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy Airbnbs have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s highlight? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island, an on-call taxi service stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So even at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa, and villa to beach. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half-an-hour from 8am to 8pm Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora, using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow through the Cyclades in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, the family tote is stuffed with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

All the island’s six beaches are blissfully sunbed free, or “unorganised” as they say in Greece. Be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes finished with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and a scattering oversized terracotta pots imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Aside from tavernas both updated and traditional and the mandatory souvlaki hole-in-the-wall (a very good one), you will also find an artisanal gelateria, a loukoumades shop (Greek-style doughnuts) diagonally opposite, and newcomer Ca Chi Ca, introducing on-trend street food like bao buns and steak burgers with sublime cocktails. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like a splash in the artic. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach on Greek islands, and for making a smaller dent on budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, it’s located opposite Naxos (with an airport) just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, it’s a 5-hour journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port. While the journey is long, the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride compared with ferries with airplane-style seating.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Car: We took our car on the ferry boat.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment