A winter retreat with ski runs named after Greek Goddesses like Leto and Alkimini, Kalavrita is nestled in alpine prettiness a 2-hour drive from Athens. It also has plenty of family-friendly, off-slope attractions to offer.
The idea of skiing in Greece may raise some eyebrows, but its soaring peaks harbour a clutch of winter wonderlands that are arguably as attractive as its cult beach draws. If you’ve heard of one, it’s probably Arachova. Locally known as the “winter Mykonos”, an apres-ski scene draws glitzy Athenians who swig cocktails to chase the cold away.
Equally close to Athens is Kalavrita. A cozy mountain village offering child-friendly activities connected with its natural beauty. From the village center, a ski center and school sits a 20-minute drive up the slopes of Mount Helmos. While there are no ski-to-door accommodation options here, ample parking is available. It’s a good alternative for late planners (like us) to otherwise overbooked, overcrowded, and heavily-priced Swiss or French Alp itineraries.
There’s more to Kalavrita beyond snow sports. Sitting in a National Park resplendent with geomorphological diversity, a cog train ride snakes through the vertiginous Vouraikos river gorge, then down to coastal Diakofto for a seaside lunch. You can also visit a spectacular cave phenomenon with subterranean cascading lakes. In Planitero village, fish farmers set up tavernas by river source waters and grill fresh-caught trout to serve. And of course, there’s the mandatory Greek village square to explore, where stone buildings cluster around a Christian Orthodox church anchoring the main square.
WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS
It’s always a good idea to stay close to main villages where supermarkets, cafes, tavernas and bakeries gather. In Kalavrita, more ideal perhaps, is slightly higher up in the restorative silence of the mountains, where the pine-scented air is especially crisp, and valley view vistas leave you feeling a little lighter each morning. Thanasis’ chalet set in the slopes of Koklos is a 7-minute drive from the main village. Drawn to the light-filled, wood-panelled cabin, his cosy mountain hideaway wasn’t just exceedingly enchanting, it was complete. Right down to a fridge fully-stocked with milk, eggs, bread, and other breakfast essentials.
As we settled-in, the kids zipped from the basement playroom, out onto the verandah and its beam-slung swing, then wandered into the kitchen for snacks where they discover a magical cornflake dispenser. And the highest highlight? The sweetest dog Rhea that stands guard outside which they adopted for the week. This was their dream of the ideal Airbnb.
THE MAIN VILLAGE SQUARE
From our chalet in the mountains, we made easy trips in the mornings and evenings to cafes (Utopia for coffee and custard-filled bougatsa breakfast takeaways), the bakery, and tavernas.
To Spitiko was memorably delicious. Translating to “home” in Greek, in the warm, wood-clad enfolds of a small mountain taverna, it felt like that. Our meals were a beautiful balance of traditional with an artful touch of a talented chef to elevate. The highlight for me was oven-baked arni (goat), with melty breaks of flavour-filled fat between the meat. The children finished their rooster in red sauce and pasta with little coaxing. And if you have weaning toddlers in hand, gigantes is a giant bean tomato-based stew that works well for smashing into baby purees. We returned to take away meals for dinner at home the day after.
In the heart of the square, Montana cafe-lounge seemed spacious enough to accommodate fidgety kids. Plunging into leather sofas by the fireplace, we wind-down with walnut pies, crepes and hot chocolate.
ODONTOTOS TRAIN
The Italian-built cog railway might be more than 120 years old, but it’s a modern, compact “Smart”-like train car that takes passengers on a slow chug around near vertical cliffs of the Helmos – Voraikos gorge. Following the river down to the Gulf of Corinth, the ride is scenic, but it’s also long. An hour each way, my 3 and 6-year olds were much less captivated by the magnificence of nature slipping by our windows, and quickly grew bored after the initial excitement of a train ride.
If you make the trip anyways, bring snacks to keep little ones busy. Other key tips: book your ticket online and in advance before showing up at the station. And when you do, keep in mind that it’s not clear from the seat plan that every two rows turn inwards to face each other. Select successive seat rows accordingly if you plan to sit together as a family.
You might also want to travel on a weekend. When we arrived in sleepy Diakofto on a Tuesday at 12:10pm, most of the village restaurants were closed. Quite a plight with little else to do before the return train departs at 3pm. Check ahead to make sure the taverna you plan to visit (our sights were set on seafront Kohili) will be open for lunch plans in between. But if you find yourself in the same situation as us, try Kostas grill. More of a meat place, but because his brother owns the fish monger a few doors down, we had a hefty kilo of calamari and fried barbounia (red mullet).
THE SKI CENTER
Rising up to 2,340m at its highest point, Kalavryta ski resort presents enough challenges for experienced skiers with 14 ski runs (including a black run) and 8 lifts. Its facilities are otherwise basic, including the requisite base cafe cum canteen for espresso hits and savoury pies. Ski lessons can be arranged for children from 3 years, while a snow fun park offers additional entertainment for the less adventurous. Undergoing a series of upgrades, a brand new cable car was also installed this year taking groups of 10 up mid-slope.
THE CAVE OF LAKES
In an astonishing 2-kilometer long cave complex in Kastria, a subterranean river has carved out remarkable sculptures within the 3 floors of its limestone walls. A steel pathway of crossings and bridges take you through fantastical stalactite and stalagmite forms, and over miniature lakes that fill over when the snow melts. It’s an easy walk even for a 3-year old.
Don’t skip over the museum at the entrance (it should really be your first stop). Nondescript on the outside, it surprises with modern, interactive displays within. There’s also a guide to take you through the exhibits.
PLANITERO
A 5-minute drive on from the Cave of Lakes, the source of the river Ladonas springs from the lush grounds of sleepy Planitero village. These are the mountain forests of a storybook, where crystal clear waters gush through streams and rivers that sparkle under the dappled light of the winter sun filtering through walnut, plane and oak trees.
Two tavernas have set-up fish farms around these springs, raising river trout, salmon and sturgeon that will jump from farm to your fork. Fish Farm is situated in manicured garden grounds that are also home to an unexpected population of swans and other domesticated fowl – a diversity of play pals for kids in tow. Rustic Planitero has a larger menu, including an impressive number of ways to prepare your fish. Baked in cognac-filled parchment, or roasted with almonds? The options are a salivating spread of flavour-dense dishes.
WHEN TO VISIT
The village gets decked out for Christmas from 13 December, recalling the holocaust of 13 December 1943 when the male village population was exterminated by the occupying German army. December is early for snow if you plan to ski. Greece’s ski season typically runs from January to February, and is when the village is busiest.