Tag:

Teen Friendly

Why (and Why Not) Lefkada: Is the Island and its Pin-Up Beach Attractions Fit for Kids?

by Lindsay Aug 26, 2022

written by Lindsay

Lefkada’s draw is exceptional beach beauty. But is it for everyone?

Fringed by scores of sensational beaches, such concentration of extraordinary coastal beauty in one island almost seems unreal. Also known as “Lefkas” (“white” in Greek), Lefkada’s shores are famous for milky hues that meet absurdly blue beauty. Then framed by vertiginous cliff-faces, these are the makings of mythic island paradises where steep descents down wood and rope staircases reward the brave with a spectacle of nature.

While enticing, the best of these dramatic coasts are difficult to access. Particularly with a baby on one hip, a toddler gripping your opposing hand, and a backpack of water, fruit and beach gear. It’s the eastern shoreline that families tend to settle on, with flatter coastal edges, shallow shores, and sheltered waters. Hardly as exciting, and missing the main point of Lefkada.

*Thrilling Egremni is hard to leave, in many ways . Getting there involves a 1 km hike and a 400-stair descent.*

And what of its off-beach draws? Having just come from the Cyclades, I pined after graphic villages to roam after long afternoons on the beach. Agios Nikitas, Lefkada’s prettiest, is a single, busy walkway that feels a tad over-touristy. Its mountainous hinterland village scene? Slightly over sleepy. And the capital? Most of its old town was lost to successive earthquakes in 1948 and 1953. Left to re-build, the result is an anarchic cross between a Brazilian backstreet and a neon-lit soi in Bangkok (the Thai bit is particularly accentuated around the waterfront corner).

For me, Lefkada is not an island for enchanting villages. Lefkada is for beach lovers. If you’re the type to cross continents in search of sublime shores, this is the Greek island for you, with older children in your company.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With young kids and many mini market trips to make, it always easier to live close to a village. Consider these two:

— AGIOS NIKITAS —

Easily the most attractive village in the island, a main stone-paved pathway lined with apartments-to-rent, souvenir shops and tavernas lead you to a cozy beach cove with sparkling blue waters that are perfectly child-friendly. If you can find seaside accommodation here, this will give you a head start for a spot on the beach before the crowds arrive. At the same time, as a central draw for the island’s visitors, it’s easy to run into your neighbours here. Dodge the congestion by staying on the outskirts. Perhaps higher up in the hills above dreamy Milos beach where some villas have direct access to the elusive sand strip below.

At the end of Agios Nikita’s main walkway, you will find the beach.
Protected, calm, and child-friendly, but also crowded. The water taxis to Milos beach dock here.

— NIKIANA —

Skip Nidri. Nikiana’s quaint waterfront is less busy, relaxed, complete with mini-marts and a clutch of cafes, tavernas, and the stylish new NV beach bar, in addition to more swimming bays nearby.

THE BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY BEACHES

You don’t have to miss out on all of the stunning, but sometimes daunting, stretches of Lefkada’s dreamiest west side beaches, even if you’ve come with tots in tow. While Egremni is probably not a good idea, and getting to Milos comes with a little more adventure (take a boat taxi departing from Agios Nikitas beach to avoid the 20-minute trek), we’ve included hospitable choices that are just as impressive.

Especially if you’re visiting the exposed west, check a wind app for the direction and strength of the wind for the beach you’re considering on the day of your trip. Too wavy, and you’re better off heading to a calmer bay (e.g. Agios Nikitas) or a sheltered spot on the eastern coast.

— PEFKOULIA —

Delightfully unchallenging, yet thoroughly impressive, this long sweep of part-organised, part-free beach delivers on the Lefkadian promise of bluer-than-blue waters and white pebbly shores. Backed by a lush green mountainscape, the scent of pine surrounds as you sunbathe on its shores. It’s thoroughly more relaxed here than on packed-out Kathisma with its mega beach clubs. Also close to Agios Nikitas, you can drop-in for an evening walk later. Deck pool bar and restaurant supplies drinks and snack type foods, but also has a full menu of traditional favourites like pastitsio and moussaka.

— PORTO KATSIKI —

With a name that translates to “goat port”, I was concerned about taking the kids down a beach only goats could previously reach. Now, there are 100 stairs. And it turns out that 100 stairs is hardly tiring at all, even for the semi-fit. While the beach has no amenities, there are three shops at the entryway with fast food, refreshment, beach mats, floats, umbrellas and other last-minute purchases you might need. Arrive before 1pm and you might be able to steal some shade under the shadow of towering rocks that crown the beach. After that, the shaded portion quickly recedes. While the beach will be filled with a rainbow of umbrellas covering the entirety of its shore in the peak of summer, somehow, the crowds get lost in the presence of such majestic beauty, and nature envelopes all. Parking is a challenge, but not overly difficult. The easiest option is to pay for spot (€10) right by the entrance. Otherwise, free parking is available along the road father up the hill.

Porto Katsiki’s towering rocks provide natural shade until about 1 p.m..
100 stairs down …

— DESIMI —

Desimi is different. In the blue-green kind of way more reminiscent of beaches in the Sporades. Flanked by lush green forests, there’s a handful of tavernas and cafes supplying ice creams and coffees. An “unorganised” beach without umbrellas and parasols, you will have to find shade under the trees that back its shores. The highlight for us – Dessimi boats rent out sea pedal boats for €20 an hour. Explore sea caves and peddle out to secret spits of beach you can dock at for a splash in your private bit of sea.

Turquoise beauty in Desimi.
Exploring.
Found a near private beach!

WHERE TO DINE WITH KIDS

Where can you dine deliciously while your toddler runs a riot through grassy lawns and pebbly shores?

— OASIS TAVERN (Athani) —

Sprawling over an elevated green studded with towering pine trees above, this tavern’s location above the lookout point for Egremni is hard to miss. Such a precious spot also happens to go hand-in-hand with excellent food. Succulent lamb, a stand-out moussaka, beef stifado, and chicken ala crème crowd-pleaser (with fries) devoured by the girls. As you wait for your meal, a toy-filled sand pit draws them happily away to leave you in a moment of Zen. There’s more – swings and a slide peek out from the foilafe of a mini playground steps below. It’s the kind of set-up that encourages families to linger.

The most family-friendly tavern we ever did see.

— ELENI TAVERNA (Karya) —

A small family-run taverna in a quiet corner under Karya square’s plane trees, a menu of familiar favourites with some secret recipe type execution continue to impress even the most restaurant-tired taste buds. There’s ample space for the kids to have a dash around between empty tables if you go early (i.e. not Greek timing) – we sat next to a large tree which they circled for 20 minutes, beam balancing on the short wall enclosing it. Head to the Folklore Museum in advance if you’re looking for more ways to spend sunny afternoons off-beach.

Under the plane trees of Karya village square is Eleni Taverna – one of the best eats on the island.
Take a stroll through the village after.

— TAVERNA PANTAZIS (Nikiana) —

On the east coast of Lefkada and its child friendly coves, Pantazis found an idyllic seafront spot where you can dine with pebbles between your toes. They get busy after 8pm, so call in ahead to reserve a table on the beach. Seafood is the highlight, although we were happier with our meat dishes – pork in wine sauce, and a lamb stamna. Take a leisurely stroll around the mini marina after.

Taverna Pantazis in Nikiana, Lefkada — *Waterfront dining at Pantazis if you’re on the east coast*

GETTING THERE

Lefkada is one of three islands in Greece you can drive to by car (the other two being Evia and Elafonissos). From Athens, a scenic coastal highway dotted with points of interest (like Corinth) will take you there in four hours. Alternatively, an airport in Preveza is located 30 minutes from Lefkada. Planning a Greek island hopping itinerary? Lefkada has frequent ferry connections with Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Ithaca and Paxi.

Nidri village in Lefkada — *The port at Nidri has ferry boats to Fiskardo in Kefalonia.*

WHEN TO VISIT

Like most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from May to October. July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months to travel in, so we try to avoid these months in particular. By winter, life on Lefkada dwindles down to its population of 22,000 locals. The main town of Lefkas stays open, along with some hotels and tavernas, while island adventures focus more on forest hikes and mountain village wanders.

Aug 26, 2022 0 comment

Ionian Islands

Kefalonia: The All-Rounded Greek Island For Kids of All Ages

by Lindsay Aug 13, 2022

written by Lindsay

With history, culture and adventure for everyone, cinematic Kefalonia is a low-key island offering next-level experiences.

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Kefalonia is the Ionian girl with everything. Perfectly manicured, rolling hills of pine, palm, and cypress peppered with terracotta-roofed estates recall the charm of the Tuscan countryside. Naturally gifted, coastal jewels, striking caves, and lofty Mount Ainos count among its enviable physical assets. It even has historical and cultural depth. Paleolithic tools suggest habitation from the Old Stone Age, while Iron Age cemeteries indicate it was a flourishing Mycenaean center. There are also Archaean treasures, a scattering of Roman baths and villas, and more recent vestiges from Venetian and English rule.

*Iconnic Melissani is best visited at noon when sunlight directly falls through its cavity*

In spite of its wealth of attractions and fleeting moment of Hollywood fame, Kefalonia remains relatively under-the-radar. And while it is a seasoned tourist destination, it is not yet marred by extensive resort chains aside from those in southerly Skala. Instead, smart boutique villas sit alongside elegant massage spas and organic farm-to-fork tavernas. It also rarely feels crowded, unless you’re in hotspots like Platis Gialos beach, queuing to see Melissani, or roaming Fiskardo when a boat arrival has disgorged its passengers.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

We spent hours pouring over where to stay to avoid insufferable travel times in the car with kids. Up north with the island’s dramatic pin-up sights (including Myrtos beach and Assos village)? The western Paliki peninsula? Or its southwestern coast (starting from Lourdata towards the capital of Argostoli) with its sandy and child-friendly bays?

We settled for the last option in the little-known village of Vlahata. But ended up having morning coffees in neighbouring Lourdata so often we’d seek accommodation there the next time around.

*Lourdata beach on calm mornings shows off surreal shades of mystic grey sand and aquamarine*

Lourdata is a seaside village with a sprinkling of boutique hotels, tavernas, and cafes. There’s significant benefit in staying steps from the sea, especially when a scorching summer rules out swimming from 11am to 4pm. And the beach at Lourdata is a lovely one. Particularly in the mornings when calm, aquamarine waters shimmer as they dapple gently over mystic grey sand.

There are many other options, of course. And while we enjoy spontaneity in our escapes, this is an island that benefits from thorough research and a planned itinerary before deciding on where to stay.

THE BEACH SCENE

Kefalonia’s coastal attractions are varied and impressive. More enticing is the fact that the island’s famous beaches with dramatic scenery are not out-of-reach for families. Myrtos is easily accessible by car, and organised with sunbeds and parasols. Yet, exposed to strong winds (always a good thing to check before beach visits), feisty waves and an abruptly dropping seabed can hamper young swimmers. Petani has a similar set-up, but is better organised with two tavernas, a cafe-bar, and watersports to offer.

The sandy southwest coast is so crammed with child-friendly coves, you might need more than a week to exhaust the options. The farther south you head (towards Mounda and Kamina), the higher your chances of finding nesting grounds where caretta turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Boxed off to protect the endangered species, they only hatch at night, but it’s an exciting sight, nonetheless.

*Turtle nesting spots (like this on Ai Helis beach) are marked out and protected by conservation groups like Wildlife Sense*

And then there’s Xi – a strange looking place with orange sand backed by white clay cliffs. Beach-goers in search of a spa treat slather themselves in its therapeutic clay soil. It also has a family draw, with shallow shores and an organised (i.e. with sunbeds and parasols) section. We round up our family favourites here.

OFF-BEACH ATTRACTIONS

Beyond the beach, Kefalonia’s list of attractions reads like a veritable theme park offering: In Sami are the famed caves of Melissani and Dogarati you can donkey trek to. Take a jeep safari adventure or hike up to Mount Ainos’ summit for a view from the Ionian’s highest peak. Dias in the southwest conducts apiary tours where you can don a suit and hold a frame of live bees. Got binoculars? Go bird spotting in the Livadi marshlands. Not to forget castle explorations at the Venetian fortification in Assos and Saint George’s castle outside Argostoli. There’s even zooland – a mini zoo and Odyssey-themed park in one.

The waterfront promenade at Argostoli.

Thankfully for us, small children get excited about simple things. Like fishermen reeling in their catch from the world’s largest oversea stone bridge in Argostoli. Or watching little crabs scuttle up its bridge walls. As we strolled the bridge, my eyes fixated on the waters below in search of carettas wandering the lagoon. A determined mother, in spite of missing the early morning sweet spot when they gather for treats from fishing boats. And I did spot one, for a precious three seconds. It disappeared long before the kids caught onto why I waved fanatically at them from a short distance.

Flattened by the Ionian earthquake in 1953, Argostoli was rebuilt as a large, modern town. Pedestrian-only Lithostroto one parallel behind the waterfront promenade is where the main shopping happens. Walk its length northwards and you will reach Platia Vallianou – a large square bordered by cafés where you can enjoy a latte while the kids have a run.

*Fiskardo is best explored in the evening, when the summer sun is less intense and the boat arrivals have ceased*

For an experience of traditional Greek village beauty, Fiskardo and Assos up north (an hour’s drive from Argostoli) are the most attractive on the island. Full of pastel prettiness and Venetian charm, bustling Fiskardo is the buzzier and more fashionable of the two. A historic harbour that escaped the earthquake of 1953, tourist-geared updates have tinged it with cosmopolitan chic. And while Assos was not so lucky, French benefactors, in love with the village, helped with restoration efforts after the earthquake. Take a hot hike up to the castle, then cool off in the village beach cove after.

DINING WITH KIDS

The right environment is nearly as important as what we are eating when we dine out with kids. Give us wide-open spaces, softly-padded grounds, a failsafe pasta menu entry, and clean toilets, and dining happiness is made. Here are our top such finds on the island.

— DROSOS (PORTO ATHERAS BEACH) —

Set in secluded Porto Atheras, this humble taverna with the beach to itself is all we love about Greek island dining. Honest, simple, friendly (without being overly friendly), and where the full, unadulterated flavours of basic ingredients are artfully drawn out. And then there’s the garden outside. So spacious, it even inspired an American dad to throw a yoga rug on the grass for an acrobatic show performed alongside his two children, while members of their larger group circled around. Everyone feels free here.

— PSARAGATOS (AMMES BEACH) —

Perched solitarily above Ammes beach, I was drawn to Psaragatos and its envious vistas on sighting it as we drove by. Surrounded by lush gardens adorned with white pottery, parasol-shaded tables sit poised for sunset. While seafood is the highlight, the one meat dish we kept stealing spoons from was the Bekri Meze, where succulent chunks of flavoursome pork tenderloin heaps over a mound of rice.

— ALEXANDROS (DIVARATA, CLOSE TO MYRTOS) —

If you’re exploring the island’s northern highlights, Alexandros might be off a main road, but feels far removed from its busyness on its valley-facing balcony. Relaxed, ambient and abundantly spacious, a menu of traditional favourites presents heart-warming fare at reasonable prices.

HOW TO GET THERE

With an international airport outside Argostoli, Kefalonia is within easy reach. If you’re coming from the mainland, ferry ports connect the island to Patras and Kyllini. Island hopping? There are also direct crossings to Lefkada, Ithaca, Zakynthos, Corfu, and other Ionian islands.

Aug 13, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏇🏽 🦋 🎨 🏺 👨‍🌾 🛝

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also well balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. Not particularly enchanting at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, bits of its ancient history hideout within walkways. Settle at Symposium for coffee and crepe within its tangle of streets. On a raised platform overhung by a bougainvillea canopy, its a lovely stop from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a warm glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the quiet inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for emerging artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for a souvenir like no other.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would seek accommodation in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — *Palaios – settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.*

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *The sand kitchen of Sirocco.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

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Jan 08, 2020 0 comment