Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.
As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and angelic patience for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of the three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.
With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. It’s also a vibrant village, with a narrow maze of back streets bustling with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).
WHERE TO STAY
Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the main touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation.
From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfasts – also a fashionable joint for modern international dining and drinks with a rooftop harbour view. This was typically followed by a stop at Starbucks in the heart of town. Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence, and as a junk coffee connoisseur, I relished in the company of a Frappuccino during the road trips ahead in search of beach.
Many of Crete’s breathtaking beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Staying in Kissamos is a good option that brings you closer to these beach attractions, at the expense of proximity to Chania town. There’s also a small port here for boat tours to Balos beach at Kissamos. Alternatively, take a private tour with Falasarna Private Cruises which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna. Starting from €380 for a 6-hour cruise on a 9.5-metre or 12-metre boat, it’s a better option for families, we think – less crowded, flexible in schedule, and complete with snorkeling equipment and refreshment on board.
BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS
Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty. Laying outstretched in its shallow waters, the 7-year-old in our company declared that Elafonisi is the best beach he has ever been to.
If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice since getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip). An unshaded and stony-pathed trek in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day at the beach. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. They are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.
The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here we were hosted in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.
Our favourite beach yet is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters also stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. It’s like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool. The feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.
DESTINATION DINING
— GRAMVOUSSA —
Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.
— AKROGIALI —
If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.
— PATRELANTONIS —
Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.
OFF-BEACH ADVENTURES
If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.
WHEN TO VISIT
Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.
GETTING THERE
A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.
- Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
- Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
- Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
- Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
- Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
- Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
- Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/
