Through the Blue
  • About
  • Why Greece
  • Where to First?
  • Destinations
    • Family Favourites >
      • 2025 Roundup – Our Favourite Greek Islands with Kids
      • Andros
      • Limnos ✈️
      • Naxos ✈️
      • Paros ✈️
      • Sifnos
      • Skopelos
    • The Mainland 🚗>
      • Athens ✈️ >
        • Central Athens
        • Kifisia (Northern Suburb)
      • Thessaloniki ✈️
      • Kalavrita ⛷️
      • Meteora ⛰️
    • Crete ✈️
    • Evia 🚗 >
      • Chalkida
      • North Evia
    • Cyclades ❤️ (POPULAR) >
      • Andros
      • Ios
      • Koufonisia ❤️❤️
      • Milos ❤️❤️ ✈️
      • Mykonos (Popular) ✈️
      • Naxos (popular) ❤️ ✈️
      • Paros (Popular) ❤️❤️ ✈️
      • Santorini (Popular) ✈️
      • Serifos ❤️
      • Sifnos ❤️
    • The Dodecanese >
      • Karpathos ✈️
    • Ionian Islands >
      • Kefalonia ✈️
      • Lefkada 🚗✈️
    • Sporades >
      • Skopelos
    • Saronic Islands
    • North Aegean Islands >
      • Limnos ✈️
  • Special Places to Stay
    • Athens (Central) – The Aeolian
    • Ios (Cyclades) – Sea Sound Beach House
    • Milos (Cyclades) – Villa De Viento
  • Insider Insights
    • Bleecker & Love
    • Meet MAMAKITA – Family Travel Planners in Greece
    • Papa’s Grove’s Greece
  • Travel Tips
    • How to Select a Greek Island 🎯
    • Best Times to Visit 🔆
    • Ferry Travel 🚢
    • Driving in Greece 🚗
    • Trip Planning Tips for Young Families
    • Selecting Accommodation – Mistakes to Avoid 🏠
    • Practical Greece – Know Before You Go
      • Travel Tips

        Practical Greece – Good to Know Before You…

        Aug 04, 2025

        Travel Tips

        The Best Thing to Add to Your Holiday…

        Jul 19, 2025

        Travel Tips

        Selecting a Family Holiday Home in Greece? 5…

        Feb 06, 2023

        Travel Tips

        Driving in Greece

        Jan 30, 2023

        Travel Tips

        How to Plan a Sweat-Free Summer in Greece…

        Jan 29, 2022

    • Eating with Kids In Greece 🍉
    • Medical Help in Greece ⚕️
    • Don’t Leave Greece Without . . .
  • Gear & Gifts
    • Summer Packing List 👙
    • Travel Gear for Babies and Toddlers 🧳
    • Travel Toys for Toddlers 🧸
    • Beach Essentials for Families ⛱️
    • The Ultimate Kids Beach Holiday Adventure Kit 🪁
    • Gifts from Greece 🎁
  • About
  • Why Greece
  • Where to First?
  • Destinations
    • Family Favourites >
      • 2025 Roundup – Our Favourite Greek Islands with Kids
      • Andros
      • Limnos ✈️
      • Naxos ✈️
      • Paros ✈️
      • Sifnos
      • Skopelos
    • The Mainland 🚗>
      • Athens ✈️ >
        • Central Athens
        • Kifisia (Northern Suburb)
      • Thessaloniki ✈️
      • Kalavrita ⛷️
      • Meteora ⛰️
    • Crete ✈️
    • Evia 🚗 >
      • Chalkida
      • North Evia
    • Cyclades ❤️ (POPULAR) >
      • Andros
      • Ios
      • Koufonisia ❤️❤️
      • Milos ❤️❤️ ✈️
      • Mykonos (Popular) ✈️
      • Naxos (popular) ❤️ ✈️
      • Paros (Popular) ❤️❤️ ✈️
      • Santorini (Popular) ✈️
      • Serifos ❤️
      • Sifnos ❤️
    • The Dodecanese >
      • Karpathos ✈️
    • Ionian Islands >
      • Kefalonia ✈️
      • Lefkada 🚗✈️
    • Sporades >
      • Skopelos
    • Saronic Islands
    • North Aegean Islands >
      • Limnos ✈️
  • Special Places to Stay
    • Athens (Central) – The Aeolian
    • Ios (Cyclades) – Sea Sound Beach House
    • Milos (Cyclades) – Villa De Viento
  • Insider Insights
    • Bleecker & Love
    • Meet MAMAKITA – Family Travel Planners in Greece
    • Papa’s Grove’s Greece
  • Travel Tips
    • How to Select a Greek Island 🎯
    • Best Times to Visit 🔆
    • Ferry Travel 🚢
    • Driving in Greece 🚗
    • Trip Planning Tips for Young Families
    • Selecting Accommodation – Mistakes to Avoid 🏠
    • Practical Greece – Know Before You Go
      • Travel Tips

        Practical Greece – Good to Know Before You…

        Aug 04, 2025

        Travel Tips

        The Best Thing to Add to Your Holiday…

        Jul 19, 2025

        Travel Tips

        Selecting a Family Holiday Home in Greece? 5…

        Feb 06, 2023

        Travel Tips

        Driving in Greece

        Jan 30, 2023

        Travel Tips

        How to Plan a Sweat-Free Summer in Greece…

        Jan 29, 2022

    • Eating with Kids In Greece 🍉
    • Medical Help in Greece ⚕️
    • Don’t Leave Greece Without . . .
  • Gear & Gifts
    • Summer Packing List 👙
    • Travel Gear for Babies and Toddlers 🧳
    • Travel Toys for Toddlers 🧸
    • Beach Essentials for Families ⛱️
    • The Ultimate Kids Beach Holiday Adventure Kit 🪁
    • Gifts from Greece 🎁
Through the Blue

FALL IN LOVE WITH GREECE. AEGEAN ADVENTURES FOR FAMILIES.

Category:

Cyclades

Island group in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece, uniquely characterised by simple yet striking blue and white architecture.

CycladesInsider Insights

Bleecker & Love Founder Irina Douka on the Best of Greece with Kids

by Lindsay Dec 05, 2025
written by Lindsay
Bleecker and Love Bleecker Bag

If you’ve roamed the village boutiques in just about any Greek island, you’re likely to have spotted (and coveted) a row of clutch-sized Bleecker Bags in eye-catching prints. I have five. Originally designed as a wristlet she could hang on her son’s stroller, its waterproof lining makes it the perfect beach companion. Athens-born founder Irina Douka has a knack for seeking out the stylish and practical. Quite like Paros – the island she chose for her flagship store and second home. Here, she shares her insights on family travel in Greece.

1. Name your top 3 destinations for family travel in Greece

Our top three destinations for family travel are Paros, Spetses, and Tinos. Paros is ideal for its beautiful beaches and a relaxed, family-friendly vibe. Spetses offers a charming, car-free environment great for walking and exploring together. Tinos is a favorite for its authentic villages, excellent food, and peaceful atmosphere, making it the perfect calm, family-oriented getaway. On the mainland, we also enjoy nearby destinations like Porto-Heli for quick getaways and family activities.

2. Can you share some of your go-to child-friendly addresses in Paros?

Golden Beach Hotel for a carefree lunch or dinner,  Afros for breakfast and snacks, and Vickys for ice cream in neighbouring Antiparos. 

3. What does the perfect family holiday in Greece look like for you? 

Spending days on a small boat, where you can stop anywhere the sea and weather takes you! There are many other wonderful things to do with kids in Greece, including:

  • Spending time on the beautiful, shallow beaches.
  • Exploring traditional villages.
  • Taking short boat trips to nearby islands.
  • Visiting ancient sites like the Acropolis or Delphi, where history comes to life.
  • Enjoying outdoor activities such as hiking, biking, and water sports.
  • Trying local food, from fresh fruit to simple tavern dishes.

4. Top tip on travelling to Greece with children?

My top tip is to keep the pace relaxed and choose family-friendly bases. Greece is best enjoyed slowly, so staying in one place for a few days at a time makes the trip easier and more enjoyable for kids. Pick accommodation close to shallow beaches, plan activities early in the morning before the heat, and always have snacks, water, and sun protection. Most importantly, embrace the local rhythm—Greek people are incredibly welcoming to families.

5. What are the essentials in your Bleecker & Love tote for a beach day with kids?

I’ve taught my son from early on to be responsible for his essentials, and to carry and organise his own bag as I’ve always worked during summer. In mine: sun lotion and an extra bathing suit along with a jumper for a windy night!

6. What are their favourite dishes on a taverna menu?

Their favorite dishes are usually the simple, classic Greek options: chicken souvlaki, fresh village salad, and homemade fries. They also enjoy cheese pies, tzatziki with bread, and fried zucchinis. A scoop of local ice cream after dinner is always a must.

7. And their favourite local snacks?

Their favorite local snacks are simple, everyday Greek treats like koulouria (sesame bread rings), fresh cheese pies, and spanakopita (spinach pie). They love seasonal fruit from local markets, such as watermelon and peaches in the summer, and they always get excited about loukoumades (fried doughnut balls) or a small scoop of gelato during evening walks.

8. In their own words, what do the kids love about Greece?

The kids love Greece for the beaches, the sunshine, and being able to play outside all day. In their own words, they say things like, ‘I love swimming in the sea every morning,’ ‘The ice cream here tastes the best,’ and ‘I can ride my bike everywhere without cars!’ They also enjoy little adventures, like exploring villages, trying new foods, and seeing donkeys or boats—everything feels fun and exciting to them.

Dec 05, 2025 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Greek Islands with Kids – Our Roundup for 2026

by Lindsay Nov 22, 2025
written by Lindsay
Beach in Ios, Greece

Awash with sapphire seas scalloped by glittering beaches, the allure of the Greek Isles has particular appeal to water-loving adventurers. But it’s a complex scene for the uninitiated. Made even more intimidating with wild tempers, distracted little legs, and picky (but ever-hungry) eaters in tow. 

Santorini and Mykonos may be poster children of the Greek isles, but are far from the best options for families. Also popular is Crete, which requires angelic road-trip patience for kids at 12 times the size of Singapore. And while Instagram posts tout hidden gems with spectacular beaches like Lefkada, read the fine print to uncover the possible 300m descent it took to get there. 

So, when summer’s family vacation duty calls, where to? Our endless quest for the best islands in Greece has culminated in this year’s roundup. Distilling the most magical escapes that meet that finicky, child-friendly formula of easy swimming, sprawling dining grounds, amenities, and accessibility, they might be the answer to that relaxed family escape you thought you would have before you had kids.

NAXOS

With a continuous 12-mile stretch of shallow, sandy beaches on its western coastline, its hard to compete with Naxos for top spot on a hitlist of family-friendly islands in Greece. But that’s not all – this blessed coastline is considerately dotted with spacious tavernas, low-key beach cafes, and slick boutique stays, offering ultimate convenience and ease for families.  Time for more off-beach? Head inland to a different scene of quiet  mountain villages. Naxos is full of easy options to pick from. Like a ferry port and airport just a 10-minute drive from the Chora (main village), catering to whether you prefer to ferry or fly in. It doesn’t get more seamless than this.

  • Kastraki Paradise Tavern Naxos
  • An alleyway in Naxos Chora

PAROS

Paros is Naxos’ posh sister without the frenzied pomp of Mykonos, but all its natural beauty. Circled by a gentle coastline carved in with luminous beach coves for calm, crystal-clear swimming, some go further with the offer of dreamy beachhouse equivalents of ski-to-door accommodation. Exuding effortless cool, Paros appeals to the cosmopolitan jet set. Alongside snazzy dining options are simple tavernas for kids in company, curated island shopping, and design-forward artisans. In short, activities aplenty for kids and grown-ups alike. 

  • Dining in Naoussa, Paros, Greece
  • Mouragio Seafood tavern in Alyki
    Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

SIFNOS

Sifnos seduces. With barefoot elegance, surprising beauty in stunning corners, culinary sophistication, and subtle refinement. A tiny island with a powerful personality, it’s the kind of place you want to keep to yourself to maintain its quietly evocative atmosphere. What it lacks is supreme beach beauty in radiant colours so prevalent in the Cyclades. But parents (of small children especially) will be drawn to the convenience and charm of seaside villages like Platis Gialos, waterside tables, and easy island discovery treks. Your only option is to brave the Greek ferry system to get there, but travel during shoulder season and you should be able to avoid most of its discomforts.

  • Glyfo beach in Sifnos
  • Cayenne restaurant in Apollonia, Sifnos
  • Lost bay beach bar, Platis Gialos, Sifnos
  • Chrysopigi Monastary

SKOPELOS

A departure from the blue and white allure of the Cycladic islands, Skopelos displays a more exotic beauty of pine tree forests that meet turquoise seas typified in the Sporades. In spite of MamaMia!, it maintains an easy way about it that lulls parents into relaxation. Beyond afternoons splashing in stunning seas, spend evenings roaming the Chora, designated a “Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Beauty” by Greek presidential decree in 1978. Classically beautiful, but brimming the eclectic energy of an Asian eatery, island brewery, and cafes that serve matcha lattes fit for Japan. We’re in love with Skopelos.

LIMNOS

Sitting solitarily in the North Aegean straddling Greece’s border with Turkey, landscape and locals alike receive you with the country’s famed hospitality in off grid Limnos. Fom its volcanic past, a diversity of curious landforms beckon exploration. The not-too-demanding kind, across undulating hills that end in shallow shores. On a volcanic dome sits Myrina castle and capital, where an easy ascent through fortress grounds rewards with wild deer encounters. From desert landscapes and salt lakes (sometimes with flamingos) to strange seaside rockscapes, there’s lots to fill a slow-travel itinerary. And while its grey-sand beaches are nothing to rhapsodize about, many are organised, with a hyper-leisurely vibe, and where foreigners are the rarity. Limnos is where you are truly in Greece.

  • Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi in Limnos
  • Falakro Geopark in Limnos
  • Seaside dining at barbounaki Limnos
  • Thanos Beach in Limnos
  • Myrina castle in Limnos

Nov 22, 2025 0 comment
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CycladesPlaces to Stay

On the Sparkling Seas of Mylopotas (Ios), Sea Sound is Beach House Perfection

by Lindsay Aug 19, 2025
written by Lindsay
Sea Sound apartment rental in Ios

When a stunning shoreline lines up with sleep and sustenance just a 3-minute walk away, a little holiday magic happens for families.

SEA SOUND, IOS


2 Bedrooms | From €350 per night

Sea Sound might not be an all-inclusive hotel with a kids club, but it could be better. For at your doorstep is a diversity of dining options (traditional seafood taverna, gorgeous modern-Greek, the pizza joint staple, sushi rolls, and even Thai street food), watersport activities, a mini mart, and even a dash of island-chic shopping. What’s more? Just a 5-minute drive out is the island’s Chora (main Greek village). Fancy a Pilates session before the kids to wake from another late Mediterranean night out? Take an early morning class in the therapeutic calm of Maria’s studio. We would oftentimes drop in again in the evening with kids for crepes and a stroll through shops and eateries set in chalk-white alleyways overhung by bougainvillea canopies.

Behind the humble exterior of a two-storey house on the quieter end of Mylopotas, revamped interiors boast Cycladic-chic within Sea Sound’s second floor hideaway. The 2-bedroom and 2-bathroom unit is a haven of whitewashed serenity embellished with wood, stone, ceramic and straw accents. 

Sea Sound Ios Living Room

While the apartment isn’t huge, its landscape layout and large windows looking out into nature’s own infinity pool encourage a feeling of space. On a single floor plate, you don’t have to worry about staircases with toddlers. And in the second bedroom for kids, 2 single sized mattresses sit on a slightly elevated platform underlit by ambient lighting. If little ones fall off mid-sleep, you can sleep soundly knowing it won’t be from more than 30cm high. The kitchen is also fully equipped – toaster, kettle, cooking appliances, a Delonghi for morning Nespresso hits…The only thing it lacked – a dishwasher. 

Sea Sound Ios Bedroom

And then there’s Marina. So kind and generous in spirit, she’s the kind of host who will never make you feel silly about any of your requests. Lekani (plastic wash basin) for washing swimmers? Check. Extra towels? Anytime. A Swifter for the constant trail of crumbs? She happily brought one to us. It’s the kind of ever accommodating, heartfelt Greek hospitality of old that makes family travel ten notches easier.

Aug 19, 2025 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Family-Friendly Sweet Spot on Ios, Greece’s Other Party Island 

by Lindsay Jul 23, 2025
written by Lindsay
Magganari beach in Ios, Greece

Is there more to the Cancun of the Cyclades than the bar crawl?


“Where are you headed this summer?” our koumbaros (best man in Greek) asks.

“Serifos, Ios, and Limnos” we reply.

“Ios?” He contorts his face, before relaxing back into a laugh. 

Ios has a reputation. As backpackers began to discover the supremely dreamy beaches of Cycladic islands like Mykonos and Ios in the freewheeling 70s, Mykonos got sophisticated popping champagne showers, while Ios carved out a scene more akin to the riotous bar crawls of Bangkok. 

We were not here for that. We came for its beaches. And a particular seafront hideaway we found at the priceless confluence of: 50 meters from a beautiful beach, a location within a village and its amenities, and other child-friendly features. So Ios it was, hoping Homer’s eventual resting place held some respite for harried parents. 

Sea Sound Apartment in Ios, Greece
Our 2-bedroom apartment on Mylopotas beach.

As we drove off the boat towards our Airbnb, names you don’t usually find on a Greek island flashed by -“Tropicana”, “Fun Pub”, and “Sweet Irish Dream”… Meandering down the hill to Mylopotas, fluorescent lights radiated from the far corner of the beach. And strolling back from dinner to our apartment rental, a group of girls belted out in song as they danced on the balcony. I started to question the wisdom of our island choice.

Thankfully, Mylopotas did not morph into a thumping outdoor club as morning came. In fact, it was pretty chill. Around sunset, sunkissed sirens move steadily from beach to bus stop. Dressed in their scanty, sequinned best, they are on their way to the Chora (main village) where classic Ios bars like Slammer (funny story to its name if you care to look it up) await. 

Ios Chora, Greece
Agora cafe, open for breakfast and drinks with live music nightly.

While the ritual remains, Ios has evolved from my husband’s blurry memory of a time in his youth when half its Chora smelled of vomit and pee. It’s the first Chora I’ve seen with WC signs and arrows – perhaps that helped. On the rise are swanky hotels (including the splashy Calilo) and a sophisticated dining scene. “Authentic” and “enchanting” may not be words I’d use to describe the island, but it’s still got its bounty of natural Greek island beauty, Cycladic blue and white architectural charm, a rich history, and apparently, a very good cheese factory (we were too caught up in languid island rhythm to visit and report on this).

Chora Ios
Village walks.

WHERE TO STAY (AND WHAT TO DO)

In spite of its reputation, Ios is largely undeveloped. There’s the Chora, Mylopotas, and Ornos Port. The rest? An expanse of bare rocky mountains dotted with sweet Cycladic churches, and scalloped by a feast of gold sand beaches. 

The benefits of staying in Mylopotas are manifold. A five-minute drive from the Chora, I quickly fell into an idyllic routine of mornings at Maria’s pilates studio (alternating days for my husband to windsurf), followed by a latte at Agora cafe opposite. Agora also happens to make the only latte I can drink on the island, without foaming everything as they have a habit of doing in Greece. Rejoining the family at lunch, an array of child-pleasing menu items line the seafront: pizzas and paninis (Karma), smashed burgers (Salt), cucumber makis and tempura rolls (Elpeace, with the best view on the strip), or honey-sweet pad thai noodles (Sawadee). All is decent. 

Mylopotas Beach, Ios Greece
Beautiful beach aside, Mylopotas has everything a family might need.

Then, there’s the standard afternoon swim. You can also pedal boat and kayak on active beach days. As it’s too hot on summer afternoons to be roaming village streets, we head to the Chora for the sweet of the day after dinner. At Koukoutsi, paper-thin, crisped crepes float arrive through blue shuttered windows. With seating nooks built into church walls directly opposite, plop onto a cushion pad as you tuck into your crepes before roaming the village streets. There may not be a toy shop on the island, but there are enough sparkly bracelets and miniature Cycladic souvenir houses on display for the girls and I to have our fill of a shopping spree.

Magganari Beach in Ios
Magannari’s waters are shallow, still, and spectacular.

A cluster of beach houses have mushroomed on dreamier Mangannari as an alternative locale to stay. The fine print? A 30-minute drive through mountain wilderness from the Chora, Magganari has just 3 restaurants (they provide sunbeds and umbrellas on the beach for €15-20 per pair) and no amenities in the area. Not even a mini mart. It’s mandatory to visit at least once, however. With four dreamy pools carved into the southern coast, its position escapes waves generated from prevailing meltimi winds that blow over the region. Calm and shallow, you can walk out for more than 50 meters before crystalline waters get waist high. The best part? It was surprisingly quiet on the day of our visit in mid-July, in spite of its reputation.

DINING WITH KIDS

It is no small feat to be able to find satisfying sustenance close to where you will swim and sleep. These were our favourites in and around Mylopotas with complicated company in hand:

— SAINIS (CHORA) —

Space is always tight within Greek village walls. Fortunately, the 2-person tables that line the alleyways at Sainis lead into a spacious indoor kitchen of wood and stone. Black and white photographs from the early 1900s speckle its walls, including images from the 60s when Ios was used as a filming location. The menu goes deeper beyond touristy taverna – delicate cheese-stuffed eggplant rolls, dolmades (wine leaves stuffed with veal and rice) in a velvety egg-lemon sauce, and pork tigania (tender cubes fried with honey and peppers). The highlight for me? Their oven-baked baby pork, also in honey, was so lusciously fatty and sweet it reminded me of Chinese “char siew”. 

Sainis Taverna
Sainis in the thick of the Chora. Head inside for wiggle room.

Prefer an outdoor venue with space for the kids to run around while you enjoy your meal? Try The Mills, set below the public parking lot under the windmills. You’re likely to have better luck parking here then in the lots beside the main church.

— METHYRA (MYLOPOTAS) —

An inventive take on Greek cuisine, flavour dense dishes arrive in atypical construction. Like their dakos salad – a beautiful assembly of marinated tomatoes mixed with barley rusks and dollops of local cream cheese. Creatively spiced, their food might be a little exotic for children, but they can also fry-up some chicken nuggets if nothing else works.

Methyra Restaurant in Ios
— SALT (MYLOPOTAS) —

Island-chic Salt has a spread of seating options to choose from: Sofa nooks for laid-back coffees, large stone tables for long lunches, and bar counters for cocktails. The menu is limited, but well-executed mix of refined regional favourites and child-pleasing staples including flat breads and smashed burgers.

— MAGEIRO (TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY FROM THE CHORA) —

The name of a type of eatery in Greece where you will find ready-cooked dishes for takeout or delivery, Mageiro is for when you tire of “restaurant food” and crave a taste of home. Albeit a Greek home. A menu plan for the week is on their website.

— KOUKOU (AGIOS THEODOTIS) —

At family-run Koukou’s, papou (Greek grandfather) sets the rhythm sitting at a table by the entrance, staring far into the distance. Here, the feel is that of Greek island wilderness. A garden at its entrance is in full bloom with tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers that will go from farm-to-fork. The dishes that were good, were very good (a gorgeous moussaka and oven-baked goat). While their yemista (tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice) probably had better days. Combine with a swim at Agios Theodotis.

Koukou Taverna on Agios Theodotis
Sustenance and swim at Agios Theodotis

BEST TIME TO VISIT

“September!” the local pilates crew agree emphatically is the best month of the year on Ios. When the seas are still warm enough for swims, and when the island returns to them after main tourist hordes have left. August is the worst, because apart from foreign party-goers to battle with, its the month when local Greeks to have their holidays. Although Ios is not unbearingly busy in general, the shoulder season is always the best months for the Greek islands.

GETTING THERE

A 5-hour high–speed ferry away from Piraeus port in Athens, Ios is a bit of a pain to reach. There is no airport on the island, so locals have to endure the 9-hour slow boat to Athens in winter months. Santorini, Paros, and Naxos, are all near neighbours with airports, and can be combined with Ios for an easy island-hopping itinerary. 

FIND FERRIES

Click on your planned date of travel for a view of the ferry schedule to Ios from Pireaus as provided by Ferryhopper:

Jul 23, 2025 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Serifos

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2025
written by Lindsay

Over 70 beaches scallop the dramatic coastline of Serifos, but just a handful are suited for kids. The good? The main draw of dreamy Greek beaches are still accessible, without having to tread through 100 meters of thorny high bushes to reach.  Resisting overdevelopment, its coastal gems retain most of their pristine beauty. And while a few beaches offer just the right amount of amenities, you might have to pack a picnic to some. Here’s where to head to with fussy company:

LIVADAKI

The protected port-cove of Livadaki is where you will find the calmest pool-like beach, even on gusty days. But neighbouring Livadakia, with similarly sheltered waters, is more inviting in turquoise crystal clarity. Apart from offering shade, a line of trees with low slung branches serve as a climbing attraction for kids (ours, at least). If you prefer the comfort of padded sunbeds, the camping grounds of Coralli (public parking is right behind) has an earth-toned cafe-bar complete with a pool you can use when you rent sunbeds for €10 a pair (as of 2025). A thoroughly convenient setup for families.

Coralli’s cafe-bar furnishes a small slip of each on Livadaki with sunbeds and parasols.

PSILLI AMMOS

A dreamy bay with golden sand and aquamarine waters, Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek) promises a good time for small splashers with shallow waters that stretch out for more than 30 meters. And you will be in the company of many. While it’s not organised, a string of mature Tamarisks line the shore from end to end for you to throw your towel under.

Psilli Ammos Beach Entrance
The pathway to Psilli Ammos, the island’s most popular beach, is 150 metres downhill from where you will park by the beach entrance.

There are two taverans on the beach. Stefanakos (a very good one that packs out early) has private parking and a beach bar with sun-dappled lounge seating you can plant yourself under. They also serve bolognese pasta if that is the only thing your child eats). Manolis is the other taverna that sets-up shop above the beach every summer.

Stefanakos taverna on Psilli Ammos in Serifos, Greece
Eat in your swims at Stefanakos or Manolis at Psilli Ammos.

With sand of the grain size that’s perfect for sandcastle building, this is where we spend the longest days at the beach. Its other appeal? On windy days, because of its shallow waters, it works up a gentle succession of waves the kids find classic joy in jumping over.

AGIOS SOSTIS

A double sided beach that takes your breath away when sighted from above, a 100-metre walk down a dirt road from parking at the top will bring you to this picture perfect cove. With its namesake church looking over stunning turquoise waters, the sheltered coastal indent ensures waters that are calm and crystalline. Under this blistering summer sun, the trek back up requires a bit of grit from kids. The hack? Dad can chauffer the car load all the way down to shore and sort out parking up above. The beach is also just a 5-minute drive from the port, so we suggest you take away bougatsas, coffees, and anything else you need. An early huddle of beachgoers start to mushroom under its five Tamarisk trees, so you’ll need to snag these early if thats your plan for shade. Otherwise, bring umbrellas. 

Agios Sostis has no amenities, so arrive equipped.

GANEMA

Not an obvious pick, Ganema has a few good things going for it: With its southerly position (along with other sheltered coves like Vagia), this is where you want to be when the northern Meltemi winds blow brutally. One kilometer long, it’s also one-part pebbly, and one-part sandy, allowing finicky children to take their pick. Little D doesn’t enjoy sand between her toes, so we headed to the pebbly side where a mini mountain stack of boulders beckons to mount them. The girls cannot resist the rock-scaling fun.

Beach House in Ganema, Serifos

The best thing about Ganema (arguably) is Grandma’s. Walk all the way to the opposing end of the beach from where you park (along the road by its entrance), and you will find a family-run café-taverna with bistro chairs huddled under the generous cover of oversized tamarisks. On our first trip when we rented beachfront accomodation here, most of our mornings were spent with iced chocolates and coffees while the kids built bridges with twigs, and castles with pebbles by their tables. If you’re staying for lunch, their menu is a simple, but well-executed selection of burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and seafood classics.

While pristine, the waters at Ganema (along with the islands other southern beaches) are darker, and get deep relatively quickly. Also because of its sheer length, it’s best visited with older children.

Jul 06, 2025 0 comment
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Cyclades

Naxos or Paros? Find your Greek Island Match

by Lindsay Jan 25, 2024
written by Lindsay
Agios Georgios Beach, Naxos, Greece

While Paros has suddenly become fashionable, how does it compare with neighbouring Naxos, described by historian Herodotus as the “happiest of islands”? Each with its own share of sparkling shores (some of the best in Greece), Cycladic village charm, cultural attractions, an airport and other family-friendly conveniences, a distinct personality difference separates the two. Here’s how they weigh-up:

If dining well for you sounds more like ceviche and champagne than a Greek salad and moussaka, choose Paros.

With polished facades set in insta-perfect corners of whitewashed villages framed by tumbling bougainvillea, the scene in Paros is curated and cosmopolitan. In Naxos, even the snazzier restaurants have a laidback way about them. Picture nursing an ouzo over grilled octopus with sand between your toes, while the children scamper around sprawling tavernas. The most fertile island in the Cyclades, Naxos also attracts with the wholesome goodness of food grown and grazed locally. 

The shopping in Paros is similarly elevated, with artisan boutiques like Yiannis Sergakis fine jewellery and Todd Marshard ceramics to swoon over.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island,
Kastraki tavern in Naxos, Greece

Pictured above, from left: Fine dining in Naoussa, Paros ; dining in Kastraki in Naxos.

If you’re looking for design-forward hotels and swanky villas, Paros is the savvier.

The Greek island haunt of the moment for designers, celebrities and the well-heeled, a string of luxury properties have sprouted up in Paros. It also has more beachfront properties set right in the sand scalloping the island’s gentle coastline. Step off your porch, and a few skips away, you’re in the sea. A perfect setup for families with young kids.

Naxos’ accommodation options are not without good looks, stylish suites, and swoon-worthy comforts. You’re just less likely to find Aesop toiletries in your bathroom, hot stone massage services, and a sushi bar on your property.

Pictured above, from left: 5 star Avant Mar in Paros, and Seaside Naxos boutique villas in Plaka.

If you appreciate an assortment of beaches for every mood, Paros is more impressive.

Swim between the exotic rock sculptures of eccentric kolymbithres, the golden windswept shores of surf hotspot Chryssi Akti, or the twinkling privacy of Faragas bay.

While Naxos is larger and has a longer coastline, most of the swimming takes place in what is essentially the same length of beach on the island’s west coast. Dreamily clear and sandy, expansive horizons backed by beach bars dominate the busy end (starting from Agios Georgios), emptying out as you head south.

Kolymbithres beach, Paros, Greece
Mikri Vigla Beach Naxos, Greece

Pictured above, from left: Kolymbithres beach in Paros, and Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos.

If you’re a naturist and enjoy quiet communes with the countryside, Naxos has diverse swathes of untouched land.

Hike to Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. Roam authentic mountain villages that feel lost in time, and explore stone-paved footpaths leading to springs, waterfalls and Byzantine monuments. Smaller and flatter, Paros’ countryside is more developed and infiltrated by an extensive road network.

Jan 25, 2024 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Paros

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2023
written by Lindsay
Santa Maria beach in Paros

Paros is circled by coastal gems. Where do you start if you have limited time and twitchy tots with little patience for exploring? Stunning Kolymbithres is hard-to-miss with sparkling bays framed by eccentric rock-sculpted beauty. But you’re likely to have to jostle with crowds of sunseekers for the slivers of space between its boulders. Golden Beach sounds like a winner. But high winds that make it a windsurfers playground can be off-putting for beach lounging.

With our girls, we look for shallow, calm, fuss-free, along with crystal clear, in addition to somewhere where an iced coffee is within easy reach. So where are the dreamiest, most reliable waters in Paros? From north to south, here are three:

MARCELO

So close to Parikia you can see it in the distance, the sheltered port waters of Marcelo beach make this one of the calmer spots for pool-like swims in bright blue seas.

Marcelo beach in Paros

Parking is located right behind the sunbed-free end of the beach that graduates into rocky shore pocked by rock pools. Little D loves catching shrimp, spotting hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks to uncover surprises within its cavities. There’s quite a bit of sea life to keep you company in the waters as well, so bring goggles or a snorkeling mask. Take a stroll towards the beach bar (there are two you can rent sunbeds and umbrellas from) and you’ll find a mini jetty where kids take endless turns jumping off into adult waist-deep waters.

Rock pool at Marcelo beach, Paros
Hunting for sea life in Marcelo beach.

Backing its shores, a scattered assembly of beach houses overlook its beauty. It’s the perfect set-up for young families that understand the singular conveniences of beach living.

SANTA MARIA

Wide, expansive, and probably the most beautiful stretch of sand in north Paros, Santa Maria’s transparent waters shimmer in the faintest shade of blue stretching as far as the eye can see. This is where the “towel movement” of Greek residents seeking to reclaim free beach space began, keeping part of its grounds blissfully bare and noise pollution free. Two beach bars continue to rent sunbeds and umbrellas for EUR 30 to 60 a set, and parking is directly behind.

Santa Maria beach in Paros
Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is yet another beautiful stretch of sand in Paros.

FARAGAS

Faragas cafe and restaurant on the southern tip is on our favourite stretch of sand. Located in one of three stunning coves that make up Faragas, the beach has crystalline, sheltered waters that are calm even on the windiest of days. Parking is right behind its palm tree studded grounds, and the restaurant and bar, just meters from the beach. With thickly padded sunbeds, summery soundtracks, and cocktails on-call, we were in parental bliss when we first discovered this with D as a baby.

  • Faragas beach, Paros
Jul 06, 2023 0 comment
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Cyclades

Andros: For Family Adventures Within Easy Reach of Athens

by Lindsay Nov 25, 2022
written by Lindsay
Andros Chora, Greece

Greece has many well-kept secrets.

How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions. 


🏖️ 🍙 🥾 👨‍🌾

Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered. 

Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.

Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens (the stunning beaches of Serifos excepting, with less frills, however). And within the folds of four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built on the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with incredible collections. Not just archaeological, but modern art exhibits that once included Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup.

And of course, there’s food. Local produce takes centre stage with the island’s bounty of agricultural produce. On Andros, your humble taverna might surprise you with a Greek salad topped with a creamy dollop of homemade feta whipped from the milk of goats grazing on fertile meadows nearby.

Agios Petros Beach Andros, Greece
Agios Petros beach on the island’s family-friendly west coast.

With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was just enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip:

WHERE TO STAY

While Andros is large, where to stay is relatively straightforward depending on your interests. For swimming on repeat, the coastal stretch from Agios Petros to Batsi is scalloped by family-friendly beach coves with accommodation options located directly behind. If inland mountain and village adventures has greater appeal for you, the main town (Chora) in the east is well-placed. And if you’re divided between the two, seaside Batsi is close to the island’s covetable child-friendly beaches, while shaving off 10 minutes from the otherwise 50-minute journey east from Agios Petros. Alternatively, divide your stay and time between both coasts. 

— AGIOS PETROS —

On the island’s honeyed western coast, a smattering of apartments have sprouted behind the clutch of beach shacks on lazy Agios Petros. Conveniently situated, key provisions like a bakery (a very good one), a mid-sized supermarket, even a general supplies store (with a great section of arts and craft supplies for kids), and an excellent pizza parlour make this an attractive, low-key option for families. 

— BATSI —

Batsi is enchanting. A harbourside village without the portside-touristy ugliness of many, this cutest of coves has an assortment of café, tavernas and useful amenities (pharmacies and mini-marts) encircling its bay. There’s also especially good ice-cream at Yo N Ice for a sugary high before a splash at the not-bad resident beach.

Batsi village, Andros, Greece
Batsi village – the most attractive settlement on the island’s east coast
— CHORA (MAIN TOWN) —

Where neoclassical mansions tumble down a gentle hillslope onto a spit of land jutting out into the sea, cinematic Chora is a beautiful jumble of cafés, tavernas, child-friendly squares, and museums. From Plateía Girokomeíou (the large square by the public carpark near the outdoor cinema), a central stone-paved street leads you to its end, anchored by a commanding bronze statue of “the unknown sailor” overlooking the remains of a small Venetian castle.  Wide, pedestrian-only, and smooth enough for strollers, pit stops for coffee, mezze, and ice-cream give tired little legs a chance for a break. The Museum of Contemporary Art is a highlight, with an impressive line-up of summer programmes for kids and teens that might even be something to plan your dates around. The centre of island life and a cultural hub, Chora is also a convenient base for exploring 4-million-year-old Foros cave, Pythara waterfalls in Apika, and other villages: aristocratic Lamrya, Menites with its lion-headed fountains, and seaside Korthi.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES 

Andros’ iconic beaches (like the island pinup Tis Grias To Pidima) that intrigue with wild and dramatic beauty are unfortunately hard to reach with small feet in company. At the same time, there’s no shortage of dreamy swims you can enjoy without involving perilous journeys. Accessible, shallow, and organised with sunbeds and parasols, here are our three favourite tot-friendly splashing grounds with parking located directly right behind.

— GOLDEN SAND —

With far-reaching shallow waters to embolden any water-weary 2-year old, this is our top choice for the best child-friendly swimming. There’s only one bar to be found on the small arc of soft golden sand, and while its service at the time is nothing to rave about (to put generously), we thoroughly enjoyed its waters.

  • The entrance to Golden beach, Andros, Greece
    The cozy arc of sand at Golden beach has one beach bar providing sunbeds, parasols and refreshment.
  • Golden beach, Andros, Greece
    Shallow, aquamarine waters at Golden beach,
— AGIOS PETROS —

A lengthy neighbouring stretch of pristine coast, the waters here are similarly pretty. Although sand speckled with bits of rock makes it slightly less comfortable if anyone wanted to roll around on the shore in their swims. Beach-shack type bars separated by makeshift bamboo dividers give it a hippie-chic appeal. Kaliva distinguishes itself with the relaxed elegance of draped curtains, and is where we settle down. Perhaps it’s the friendly service, the sleepy sunset, or very decent tipples, but all is infectiously relaxing.

Kaliva Beach Bar, Andros, Greece
Linger for sunset at rustic chic Kaliva on Agios Petros
— KYPRI —

With a main draw being watersports, we weren’t sure if there was much for little D in Kypri. Until a 4-year old boy coaxing a tiny surfboard along the shoreline floated across our sunbed. Inspired, she wanted to do the same. Vasiliki from the professional crew at Wesurfin had a free slot for us. In her playful way with kids, she guided D out on a mini windsurf, showing her some basics, as they ventured far beyond her usual paddling grounds. Also a restaurant and beach bar, Wesurfin is as serious about their sport as their food (bistro favourites with a luxe spin): burgers cooked to medium-well juicy perfection with sweet potato fries, pork tenderloin, and reliable pasta options for kids. Alternatively, Flivo next door is a relaxed, child-friendly hangout (complete with baby changing tables and a playground behind) that can also mix a good vodka tonic. 

If you’ve come just for swimming, however, the beach here has a plane of rocky seabed, and slightly murky waters stirred by waves.

  • Watersports on Andros at Wesurfin, Kypri beach
    The professional and friendly crew at Wesurfin
  • Windsurfing for kids in Andros, Greece

OFF-BEACH 

Wind through Andros’ windswept ribbon of streets and an Alice in Wonderland fill of adventures await. If, like us, you revel in countryside encounters for the nature-naive like sheep and goat sightings, picking figs on a gentle hike to a waterfall, or collecting acorns on the walk back from a cave, you will love Andros as much as we did.

— FOROS CAVE —

Would being engulfed by Gaudi-esque sculptures in cold, musty darkness be a nightmarish experience girls? As our uphill walk to the cave grew from 5 to 15 minutes, so did my concern. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be our 4-year-old’s most (positively) memorable experience that summer.

Lead by Google maps, we parked in a dent on the roadside opposite a sign that read “350 meters on foot to Foros cave”. This didn’t sound too intimidating. But the thing to know is that a lot of that walk is uphill. Part of a hiking route, the stoned-paved path is nonetheless a scenic one. Mostly unshaded, bring hats. 

Exploring Foros Caves with kids in Andros, Greece
Descent into darkness in Foros cave

At the top, a lone cave guide awaits with a smile like a pitstop in a bizarre fantasy adventure. She takes groups in one at a time. If others arrive, there’s a waiting area tucked into the hillside, complete with (very clean) toilets and a water fountain for refilling water bottles. To my sweaty post-trek delight, our guide whipped out hair nets to place beneath our hard hats as we geared up for the journey. The girls were happy to don their own dinosaur versions, and even happier to be handed torch lights for the descent into darkness.

The steep and narrow path down is tricky if you have children to mind, but we managed with rails to guide us along. And while much of what was said on the tour was beyond her, little D enjoyed the experience enough to enthusiastically want to return.

— PYTHARA WATERFALLS —

Admittedly short of spectacular, I attempted this mainly for the experience of finding some waterfall to explore. The walk is 20 minutes long, but easy. It’s not something I’d suggest if you’re tight on time (especially if you’ve got the cave and chora already in a day’s itinerary, as we did). But if you have an afternoon to spare, little ones will find joy in frog and tadpole hunting, dragonfly spotting, and skipping over water pools from boulder to boulder.

Pythara Waterfalls, Andros, Greece
Still a trickle of water in Pythara in summer

Unintuitively, you park at the sign to Pythara waterfalls that seems to lead to nowhere. It’s located right by a small house where a side alleyway will take you to a tree-lined path that gradually fills with the sounds of water. 

— 3MELISSES ORGANIC APIARY —

An apiary tour had been on my mind since D started asking about the pastel-coloured boxes she frequently spotted in honey-producing Evia where we live. But finding none there, some combination of words in Google search led us to 3Melisses in Andros. While it’s not part of the usual experience they offer, Katerina and Lefteris warmly welcomed us to their off-grid mountainside laboratory. Between bites of cheese, spoonfuls of a spectrum of honey types, and playing with Lefki, the family dog, we went from observation hive to processing facility, gaining an insightful glimpse into the magic of honey production. 

3Melisses, Andros, Greece
Looking for Queen bee in the hive of observation
— CHORA —

It’s amazing how a simple square can elicit so much pleasure for children. As we walk up to Chora’s largest by the unexpected retirement home, the girls take off running. Once you’ve coaxed them out from the crazed circuit, take the stone walkway to the smaller square where cafés line-up offering food and refreshment along the pedestrian-only pathway. 

  • Square in the Chora of Andros, Greece
    Kairi square, surrounded by cafes, eateries and museums.
  • Statue of the Unknown Soldier, Andros, Greece
    The statue of the Unknown Sailor overlooking castle ruins.

In most Greek island Choras, we wouldn’t suggest strollers or dining in typically tight alleyways with kids. But Andros’ Chora has wider-than-usual streets uninterrupted by too many stairs. Mod-chic Endochora with fancy cocktails is celebrated for a novel take on local cuisine. Or for a quick crepe stop with tired kids, try Las Strada.

DELICIOUS DINING WITH KIDS 

From farmhouse and seaside dining to our vote for the best ice-cream in the Cyclades, these are the gems serving standout food in settings that indulge children equally.

— KOSSIS FARM —

When yiayia (grandma) says papu (grandpa, who stayed behind this trip) would love this meat place, you understand that it is something special. Truly sumptuous, we decimated 500 grams of lamb chops quite easily while the kids devoured their bifteki (burgers without the buns). But Kossis is more than just a seriously good tavern. Ducks, fowl, cows, ponies, and even deer roam its grounds to make this a family attraction as much as a dining destination. And if that’s not joy enough for parents, its large clean toilets come complete with a baby changing table. 

  • Deer spotting at Kossis Farm, Andros, Greece
    Deer spotting.
  • Ducks and more at Kossis Farm, Andros, Greece
    Ducks and other game in their swimming pool.
— TO STEKI —

Another tavern set in a family-friendly patch of land on the way to Foki beach, To Steki has a large menu of traditionally-loved fare. Although admittedly, the real highlight here is being able to dine with a view of the kids on swings, slides, and in the company of a resident pony.

Playground in To Steki, Andros, Greece
Late-night fun in To Steki’s playground
— MASTELLO —

After one-too-many classic Greek meals, Mastello was a welcome respite of modern, gastronomic heaven. Our purist slant initially cast a shade of skepticism on dishes like the “tarama trilogy” (a traditional fish roe spread) presented in three perfect rounds, but the creative spin on classic Greek cuisine was faultlessly executed. Don’t miss the Amberjack with celery and leek puree. And the buttery crayfish orzo with exquisite depth of flavour. If you’re with kids, consider reserving the tables on its beachside set-up.

Mastello restaurant in Andros, Greece
Mastello in Batsi – our pick for the island’s best dining experience
— YO N ICE —

It’s not easy to make gelato that balances guilt-free sugar levels with indulgent pleasure, but Yo N Ice does just that. What’s even better? Having it stuffed in warm Tsoureki (a sweet bread) and spread over with hazelnut praline.

Yonice at Andros, Greece
The best ice-cream in the Cyclades, only open after 4pm in summer.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main summer tourist season runs from June to September. We usually aim for June and September to avoid the intensity of the heat (and heat waves) in July and August. After September, the island starts emptying out to leave behind a clutch of residents you can count in the thousands.

If you’re visiting for other reasons than the beach, Spring (April and May) is a beautiful time on Andros, with wildflowers colouring verdant valley landscapes, and herbs that scent the air. Ferries to Andros operate year-round.

GETTING THERE

While it doesn’t have an airport, the ferry to Andros is a good alternative to air travel. With connections departing from quieter Rafina port (20 minutes from Athens International Airport), this is a much less chaotic experience than journeys from Pireaus. Because of its proximity to the mainland, the boats travelling there are not usually the high-speed vessels with airplane-type seating, but larger superships with cafe-style seating, a shop, and ample space to roam. If a flexible schedule allows you to choose brands, pick Golden Star over Superjets. Better maintained, cleaner, and more generous with space, they have always provided a better ride for us.

FIND A FERRY TO ANDROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Andros from Pireaus.

Nov 25, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

SIFNOS or SERIFOS? Which Island is for You?

by Lindsay Jul 12, 2022
written by Lindsay
Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos

Both 75 square kilometres in size and full of Cycladic charm, Sifnos and Serifos are separated by a 20-minute fast-ferry ride across the Aegean. Apart from their first letters, what else do they share? Outlining the differences that make them uniquely alluring, here’s how to take your pick if you only have time for one.

If you love a dreamy beach

Serifos has beaches more dazzling and diverse than Sifnos. From aquamarine Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis, to dark and wild Ganema, these waters are all you expect from Greece’s reputation for stunning shores. At the same time, its beach scene is not as developed as Sifnos, where the island’s best beaches are conveniently “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols, as they say in Greece) for travelling families. Providing amenities at your doorstep, Sifnos is the island to choose if you prioritise convenience over beach brilliance.

  • Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos
    Aquamarine waters in Psilli Ammos Beach, Serifos
  • Light shades of blue at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
    More perfect shores at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
  • Platis Gialos is our favourite beach in Sifnos – not as impressive, but organised with beach bars and more backing the beach

If you appreciate a raw and rugged aesthetic 

While both islands are mountainous, Serifos is a stunner. Visually striking with imposing peaks and stark landforms carpeted by low and dry vegetation, its landscape has inspired some extraordinary architecture built in synchrony with its surroundings.  In contrast, Sifnos’ fertile hillscapes have been extensively and carefully cultivated. Rolling terraced mountains are covered with olive and almond trees for a softer, greener countryside.

  • Serifos Chora
    Serifos’ Chora dipped in peachy sunset hues. Image credit: Despina Galani.
  • Mountainscapes in sunset at Serifos
    Sunset drives on the way to Serifos’ Chora
  • Serifos Mountainscape
    Views of Megalo Livadi village from the Throne of Cyclops in Serifos
  • Artemon village in Sifnos
    It’s a little greener in Sifnos

If you love Greek villages 

What Sifnos lacks in beaches, it makes up for in its villages. While Serifos has two main villages of interest (a tiny hilltop Chora and portside Livadi), Sifnos has a handful. Mountain top Apollonia is its liveliest, with bursts of bougainvillaea cascading down colourful shopfronts that lead onto blue domed churches around the corner. Quiet Artemonas has a subtly stately vibe and a special sweet store (Theodorou). And most memorably, medieval Kastro is fascinating, apart from being especially beautiful. And of course, the seaside villages of Platis Gialos, Kamares and Vathy provide many opportunities for coffees, cocktails, and souvenir shopping in between beach dips.

  • Shops in the Apollonia, Sifnos
    Sifnos has an assortment of villages to explore, all uniquely colourful and charming
  • Main square of the Chora in Serifos
    Serifos’ Chora is smaller than that of Sifnos

If you like shopping 

Unless you’re into souvenir magnets and such, shopping is not a thing in Serifos. Sifnos, with larger villages, includes a handful of shops that entice with curated island chic, alongside a centuries-old pottery scene. Take home exquisitely crafted tableware and traditional casserole earthenware that promise the magic touch in your next slow-cooked meal.

If you’re culturally curious

Sifnos has a greater array of archaeological sites, historical towers and dazzling churches to fill cultural appetites. Off-beach sites of interest in Serifos are spartan, and perhaps interesting mainly because of the breathtaking panoramas from their lofty vantage points.

  • Sunset walk at Kastro, Sifnos
    This cliffside walk in Kastro (built on the ruins of the island’s ancient capital) leads to The Church of Seven Matyrs
  • Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
    The iconic Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
  • Cyclops Throne in Serifos
    Cyclops Throne, one of Serifos’ main off-beach attractions, offered lovely views but was slightly lackluster in itself

If you’re into fine dining 

Truth be told, Sifnos, with it’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise, did not stand out dramatically for us. Yet, it boasts modern fine dining finesse with celebrity-frequented, experimental outposts like Omega3 and Cantina. Also, being more developed, there are more options to choose from. Serifos’ islanders tended to point us to a familiar list of go-to tavernas. It did have one edge for us, however – Blue Bamboo, a contemporary Thai restaurant from Athens was a welcome palette refresher after one-too-many tomato-based meals. 

  • Cantina in Seralia, Sifnos
    Cantina is Sifnos’ most exciting culinary offer yet
  • Seaside tavern in Livadi, Serifos
    Dining in Serifos is more traditional. Image credit: Cantina

If you have young children 

With a more developed tourist infrastructure, Sifnos is convenient. For ultimate ease, choose a village by the beach, like Platis Gialos (our top pick), Kamares and Vathy. Livadaki in Serifos offers a similar set-up, but is otherwise the only such option for convenience on the island.

  • Platis Gialos Beach
    Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
  • Livadakia Beach Serifos
    Livadakia beach in Serifos, with the amenities of Livadi village nearby
Jul 12, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

Is Gourmet Sifnos the Best Greek Island for Young Families?

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022
written by Lindsay
Chrysopigi Church in Sifnos

Dainty, dazzling and delicious, Sifnos is a soulful delight with a hint of posh.

In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays. 


🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏛️

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its unique village charm.

But the island is a thumb-smudge of a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it really as impressive as some reviews suggest? 

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a languid rhythm even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine barefoot wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough. 

The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Blanketed in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with guesthouses, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up great cocktails). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

  • Luminescence at Platis Gialos beach
  • Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Omega3 Fish and Wine Bar – fine dining, if manage what to do with accompanying kids.
  • Bakery in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Our usual bakery stop behind the mini mart next to Omega3. Go early – a lot runs out by noon
  • Lost bay beach bar, Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Lost bay beach bar in Platis Gialos – all we could want in cocktails by the sea

We stayed at Miles Away, the beach just steps from our patio. Perfectly appointed and in a prime location, a few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, a bleary-eyed saunter to Palmira would get the day started with a wake-up brew. A few doors down at To Steki, we might break for a hearty lunch exemplary of traditional Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 another few doors away, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience that arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

A modest playground by the sea at Platis Gialos.

The mini market next to Omega3 catered to most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb. 

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free . Bounded by towering mountains on each side, a portside buzz reverberates from the main road running through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares.

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne shores and aquamarine waters of Koufonisia and Naxos, the islands’ muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

Azure waters in Apokofto.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. While small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts promenade with fitted shirts and cropped pants.

Walking through the main street of Apollonia – life begins at sunset in Greek villages.

As with most Greek mountain villages with innumerable steps to battle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit to avoid the heat. Like the shops and cafes that close for a 2pm to 5pm siesta, it’s a good idea to follow suit with a late naps so the kids can keep up with village children dashing around playgrounds and squares on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

Apollonia village in Sifnos
Smart boutiques full of colour and charm in Apollonia.
— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, the island’s ancient capital inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

Kastro Village Walkway
The cliffside path to the Church of the Seven Matyrs.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Home to Greece’s first celebrity chef, there are modern dining options that rival experienced counterparts in Santorini within its terraced and smartly cultivated mountainous terrain. But beyond deconstructed meals, an embellished reputation, and romantic accounts of sage and thyme scented air, truth be told, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and very good restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands.

So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools in haute-hip hotspots?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Initiating us into the island’s revered recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful at family-run To Steki was soul-warming, Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a play area of sandy shores lies below.

To Steki for traditional Sifnian dishes.
— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a beautiful lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

Chrisopigi tavern on Apoftoko beach.
— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

  • Drakakis Taverna, Apollonia, Sifnos
    Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
  • Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, a little too early in Spring might mean many businesses have yet to open, or too late in Autumn and they have already shut for the season. The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos the boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can also fly into Milos (a 40-minute ride away on a high-speed ferry) for a perfect island pairing. More island hopping itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO SIFNOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing from Pireaus port.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment
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