Cyclades

While Paros has suddenly become fashionable, how does it compare with neighbouring Naxos, described by historian Herodotus as the “happiest of islands”? Each with its own share of sparkling shores (some of the best in Greece), Cycladic village charm, cultural attractions, an airport and other family-friendly conveniences, there’s a distinct personality difference that separates the two. Here’s how they weigh-up:

If dining well for you sounds more like ceviche and champagne than a Greek salad and moussaka, choose Paros.

With polished facades set in insta-perfect corners of whitewashed villages framed by tumbling bougainvillea, the scene in Paros is curated and cosmopolitan. In Naxos, even the snazzier restaurants have a laidback way about them. Picture nursing an ouzo over grilled octopus with sand between your toes, while the children scamper around in sprawling tavernas. The most fertile island in the Cyclades, Naxos also attracts with the wholesome goodness of food grown and grazed locally. 

The Greek island haunt of the moment for designers, celebrities and the well-heeled, a string of luxury properties have sprouted up in Paros. It also has more beachfront property options set right in the sand scalloping the island’s gentle coastline. Step off your porch, and a few skips away, you’re in the sea. A perfect setup for families with young kids.

Naxos’ accommodation options are not without good looks, stylish suites, and swoon-worthy comforts. You’re just less likely to find Aesop toiletries in your bathroom, hot stone massage services, and a sushi bar on your property.

_{^{Pictured above, from left: 5 star Avant Mar in Paros, and Seaside Naxos boutique villas in Plaka}}.

If you appreciate an assortment of beaches for every mood, Paros is more impressive.

Swim between the exotic rock sculptures of eccentric kolymbithres, the golden windswept shores of surf hotspot Chryssi Akti, or the twinkling privacy of Faragas bay.

While Naxos is larger and has a longer coastline, most of the swimming takes place in what is essentially the same length of beach on the island’s west coast. Dreamily clear and sandy, expansive horizons backed by beach bars dominate the busy end (starting from Agios Georgios), emptying out as you head south.

_{^{Pictured above, from left: Kolymbithres beach in Paros, and Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos}}.

If you’re a naturist and enjoy quiet communes with the countryside, Naxos has diverse swathes of untouched land.

Hike to Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. Roam authentic mountain villages that feel lost in time, and explore stone-paved footpaths leading to springs, waterfalls and Byzantine monuments. Smaller and flatter, Paros’ countryside is more developed and infiltrated by an extensive road network.

Paros is circled by coastal gems. Where do you start if you have limited time and twitchy tots with little patience for exploring? Stunning Kolymbithres is hard-to-miss with sparkling bays framed by eccentric rock-sculpted beauty. But you’re likely to have to jostle with crowds of sunseekers for the slivers of space between its boulders. Golden Beach sounds like a winner. But high winds that make it a windsurfers playground can be off-putting for beach lounging.

With our girls, we look for shallow, calm, fuss-free, along with crystal clear, in addition to somewhere where an iced coffee is within easy reach. So where are the dreamiest, most reliable waters in Paros? From north to south, here are three:

— MARCELO —

So close to Parikia you can see it in the distance, the sheltered port waters of Marcelo beach make this one of the calmer spots for pool-like swims in bright blue seas.

Parking is located right behind the sunbed-free end of the beach that graduates into rocky shore pocked by rock pools. Little D loves catching shrimp, spotting hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks to uncover surprises within its cavities. There’s quite a bit of sea life to keep you company in the waters as well, so bring goggles or a snorkeling mask. Take a stroll towards the beach bar (there are two you can rent sunbeds and umbrellas from) and you’ll find a mini jetty where kids take endless turns jumping off into adult waist-deep waters.

Backing its shores, a scattered assembly of beach houses overlook its beauty. It’s the perfect set-up for young families that understand the singular conveniences of beach living.

— SANTA MARIA —

Wide, expansive, and probably the most beautiful stretch of sand in north Paros, Santa Maria’s transparent waters shimmer in the faintest shade of blue stretching as far as the eye can see. This is where the “towel movement” of Greek residents seeking to reclaim free beach space began, keeping part of its grounds blissfully bare and noise pollution free. Two beach bars continue to rent sunbeds and umbrellas for EUR 30 to 60 a set, and parking is directly behind.

— FARAGAS —

Faragas cafe and restaurant on the southern tip is on our favourite stretch of sand. Located in one of three stunning coves that make up Faragas, the beach has crystalline, sheltered waters that are calm even on the windiest of days. Parking is right behind its palm tree studded grounds, and the restaurant and bar, just meters from the beach. With thickly padded sunbeds, summery soundtracks, and cocktails on-call, we were in parental bliss when we first discovered this with D as a baby.

Both 75 square kilometres in size and full of Cycladic charm, Sifnos and Serifos are separated by a 20-minute fast-ferry ride across the Aegean. Apart from their first letters, what else do they share? Outlining the differences that make them uniquely alluring, here’s how to take your pick if you only have time for one.

If you love a dreamy beach

Serifos has beaches more dazzling and diverse than Sifnos. From aquamarine Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis, to dark and wild Ganema, these waters are all you expect from Greece’s reputation for stunning shores. At the same time, its beach scene is not as developed as Sifnos, where the island’s best beaches are conveniently “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols, as they say in Greece) for travelling families. Providing amenities at your doorstep, Sifnos is the island to choose if you prioritise convenience over beach brilliance.

If you appreciate a raw and rugged aesthetic 

While both islands are mountainous, Serifos is a stunner. Visually striking with imposing peaks and stark landforms carpeted by low and dry vegetation, its landscape has inspired some extraordinary architecture built in synchrony with its surroundings.  In contrast, Sifnos’ fertile hillscapes have been extensively and carefully cultivated. Rolling terraced mountains are covered with olive and almond trees for a softer, greener countryside.

If you love Greek villages 

What Sifnos lacks in beaches, it makes up for in its villages. While Serifos has two main villages of interest (a tiny hilltop Chora and portside Livadi), Sifnos has a handful. Mountain top Apollonia is its liveliest, with bursts of bougainvillaea cascading down colourful shopfronts that lead onto blue domed churches around the corner. Quiet Artemonas has a subtly stately vibe and a special sweet store (Theodorou). And most memorably, medieval Kastro is fascinating, apart from being especially beautiful. And of course, the seaside villages of Platis Gialos, Kamares and Vathy provide many opportunities for coffees, cocktails, and souvenir shopping in between beach dips.

If you like shopping 

Unless you’re into souvenir magnets and such, shopping is not a thing in Serifos. Sifnos, with larger villages, includes a handful of shops that entice with curated island chic, alongside a centuries-old pottery scene. Take home exquisitely crafted tableware and traditional casserole earthenware that promise the magic touch in your next slow-cooked meal.

If you’re culturally curious

Sifnos has a greater array of archaeological sites, historical towers and dazzling churches to fill cultural appetites. Off-beach sites of interest in Serifos are spartan, and perhaps interesting mainly because of the breathtaking panoramas from their lofty vantage points.

If you’re into fine dining 

Truth be told, Sifnos, with it’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise, did not stand out dramatically for us. Yet, it boasts modern fine dining finesse with celebrity-frequented, experimental outposts like Omega3 and Cantina. Also, being more developed, there are more options to choose from. Serifos’ islanders tended to point us to a familiar list of go-to tavernas. It did have one edge for us, however – Blue Bamboo, a contemporary Thai restaurant from Athens was a welcome palette refresher after one-too-many tomato-based meals. 

If you have young children 

With a more developed tourist infrastructure, Sifnos is convenient. For ultimate ease, choose a village by the beach, like Platis Gialos (our top pick), Kamares and Vathy. Livadaki in Serifos offers a similar set-up, but is otherwise the only such option for convenience on the island.

Where do you throw your towels down (or not) in-between sampling Sifnos‘ famous gastronomic flavours? While the island’s main draw is not stunning shores, Sifnos boasts a particular benefit for young families: an attractive set-up of shallow bays nestled within relaxed villages boasting an excellent choice of seaside tavernas and cafes – a joy for parents with little legs to herd around.

Of all the easily accessible options, we list our favourites here. Some “organised” (as they say in Greece, providing loungers and parasols), others offering natural shade, and all complete with dining options for an easy skip from sunbed, to taverna, or beach bar. 

PLATIS GIALOS

Wide and sandy in the southern end of Sifnos, Platis Gialos is our pick for the island’s most attractive swimming. The left corner (as you face the beach) is free from rocky hindrances on its seabed, with glassy waters inching up to waist height after a lengthy 100 meters. While organised, it’s not smothered with sunbeds. And if you’ve left your beach toys behind, the mini market next to dining hotspot Omega3 has fishing nets, shovels, and buckets. Fringed by boutique hotels, chic cafes, smart restaurants and traditional taverns, there’s also a small playground by the beach (next to NUS restaurant). 

The seaside villages of Kamares and Vathy have a similarly convenient set-up. All organised, sheltered shorelines and shallow waters make these alternative child-friendly options. Yet, we found the unobstructed panorama of Platis Gialos more attractive than both (towering mountains flank the deep-set harbour of Kamares, while in sleepy Vathy, the omega-shaped bay feels more like swimming in a lake).   

APOKOFTO

Touched with the charm of Chrisopogi church sitting serenely in its corner, Apokofto’s azure waters are marvelously clear. The seabed, however, is slightly steeper than in Platis Gialos, and rocky in parts. It’s wavier here than at Platis Gialos, and better with older kids in company. Unorganised, a scattering of tamarisk trees offer relief from the sun. Go early to secure a spot. 

Tucked away behind the beach, Way Cup roaster is serious about good coffee. Aside from a perfect cappuccino, it also serves cocktails, smoothies and juice. Hang out on their sun-dappled terrace, or save your drinks for the beach. For post-swim meals, there are two taverns by the sea. We happily dined at Chrisopigi tavern twice in seven days.  

GLYFO

The three mini beach bays of Glyfo, Faros, and Fassalou sit in sequence southeast of the island. Glyfo, separated from Faros by a small village, is the most attractive in its picturesque seclusion. Without road access (you park at Faros), a short trek through a teensy village (with Gorgona cafe and another tavern sitting prettily at its foot) will lead to the bay. Unorganised, shade-giving tamarisk trees line its shore, where calm and shallow waters stretch out for about 50 meters. On the opposing end from where you enter, a short and scenic hiking path leads you the the church of Agios Charalampos, and then to Chrysopigi.

On an island notorious for parties, crowds, and rambunctious extravagance, where can you go to find a family-friendly share of its sparkling blue seas (and not have to splash obscene amounts of money)?

Confused by drunkenly divergent reviews of what’s best in Mykonos, we went from coast-to-coast to find seaside sanctuaries that are as relaxed as is Mykonianly possible. And coast-to-coast here involves convoluted loops inland, then back out onto a bit of shore that could be just next door. 

To save you from a similar hassle, we’ve listed our top picks in rank order. We’ve also included why some other beaches you might read about didn’t appeal to us, in case your stylistic preferences resonate with ours.

KALO LIVADI

On the island’s overcrowded southern fringe, Kalo Livadi is a literal breath of fresh air. There’s even a sweep of sunbed-free space on the right as you face the sea. For now, visitors can enjoy its turquoise waters and soft white sand in relative serenity. Wade in and the water gradually drops to (adult) waist-height after about 50 meters. Not the shallowest, but still good for child’s play.

Two beach clubs have secured covetable real estate on its shores. Unlike its namesake, nautical-themed Lohan is laid-back. Socially distant beds surround an airy canopy of sails covering the central bar. There’s easy electronica in the background, and along with whitewashed furnishings, all is soothing. The sunbeds at Lohan cost €30 a pair (cheap on Mykonos, although prices on the island seem to fluctuate with the wind). Ample free parking is located directly behind. 

ELIA

Elia is perhaps more striking than Kalo Livadi, but also with more admirers. The good – one of the island’s longest beaches, you don’t feel the crowd as much as on smaller bays like the Paradise, Paraga or Ornos. A smattering of ultra-luxe hotels provide beachfront accommodation. Elegant constructions dressed in muted hues, these low-slung volumes discreetly blend into their surroundings. 

Like other natural beauties before it, a recent remodel has fitted Elia with loungers from end-to-end (Book one here). There’s still some slivers of free space in between assembly blocks of sunbeds.  With faint music in the background, the ambience here is easy. Sunbeds cost €50 per pair.

Before you get excited about the hidden section past the rocky headland at the edge of the carpark, it’s useful to know that this is also nudist territory.  

PARADISE

Why have we included this beach with a party-hard reputation in our list? Tropicana, a club without the notorious island attitude, is actually pretty laid-back before 4 p.m.. It’s also without the pole dancers of neighbouring Super Paradise. The crowd, less determined to make a scene, is still more self-conscious than is relaxing. Selfie-taking borders on obsessive, and the occasional young siren bares her chest for a photo op with the club photographer. 

Sandbags and sun loungers fill the shore, so we focus our gaze on the stunning aquamarine waters beyond. The seabed has sections of reef for feet to watch out for, which is also home to an array of marine life – bring snorkeling equipment. Sunbeds cost €35 a pair and there’s a €10 minimum spend. Parking was free as well.

AGRARI

Quieter Agrari perhaps deserves third spot over fourth with an expanse of free beach to tumble around. At its center is tranquil Agrari restaurant-bar-cafe. Wood patio-style furniture spread out under the leafy green canopy of a little forest of tamarisks. 

So what’s not to love at Agrari? With mustard-yellow sand, it’s waters were just not quite the shade of piercing blue we idealise. It also has a reefier seabed. But if natural, raw and free, with some organisation (loungers, food and drink) is your priority, this is it. Free parking is located directly behind. 

AGIOS SOSTIS

One of the last few beaches on Mykonos that has escaped development, northern Agios Sostis is for throwing your towels down to relish on beaches unblemished. The difference in atmosphere here is distinct – rugged and real, with a dark and wild appeal. Resident taverna KiKi’s, a local cult favourite known for mouthwatering grills, has also remained largely unchanged since the 80s. Small and nondescript, expect a one to two hour wait for a meal here. Parking is a bit of a challenge on the narrow strip of road leading down to the beach, but we’ve always managed without too much difficulty. There are no facilities here, so bring water and everything you need for a day on the beach.

AND THE OTHER BEACHES WE VISITED?

The waters of Shirley Valentine’s Agios Ioannis were not as dreamy as we envisioned (Agrari would have been a better option), with lots of rocks in the seabed. Paraga was exorbitant, although by the time we got there, we were tired of travelling and ready to spend. Prepared to splurge, we headed to Scorpios. But without a booking, nothing was available. Ornos was so crowded with people on the shore and boats out at sea, I could have been on the east coast of Singapore. And Platis Gialos felt too built-up with squeezed-together hotel blocks marring the shorefront. 

Still confused? Approach family travel specialists in Greece, Mamakita. We wish we did before we attempted the island ourselves.

_{Last updated: 29 Jul 2024}

Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.

ACHIVADOLIMNI

A 10 -minute drive from the main port, Achivadolimni’s protected waters are ideal for young children with waters that stay waist deep even 20 meters in. Calm and clear, a beguiling ombre of blue stretches towards Adamantas village opposite. Daddies prop up naked babies in armbands, toddlers splash confidently in Swim Trainers, and our girls practice snorkelling in  preparation for the deeper waters of Paleochori. Sporadically, a plane flies by. A passing ferry might also stir up a series of waves, eliciting shrieks of excitement from kids as they’re rocked by the waters.

Next to the lifeguard tower, a basic bar-shack rents out straw umbrellas and sunbeds  for €20 a pair. It has a wider than expected canteen-type menu: fruit juices and salads, sandwiches, burgers – everything you need to satiate hungry kids.

Parking is directly behind the beach.

PROVOTAS

Provotas is a perfect little bay for toddlers in tow. Subtly stunning, with sparkling waters and powdery sand, the gentle seabed stays near-flat for more than fifty meters out. On the beach, the resident hotel (Golden Milos) rents padded sun loungers and offers refreshment for €50 a new island high of pair (as of 2024). Park directly behind on the road that runs parallel to the beach. There’s a shower near the exit for a quick rinse before you return to the car.

If you’re in the area and don’t mind throwing your towel down on the beach instead, check out neigbouring Agios Sostis. Harder to reach, follow a short dirt road before arriving at the start of a 60-step stairway down. The bay below also harbours shallow, crystal clear waters, and our favourite for a swim in perfect tranquility. There is no shade or amenities here, however, so arrive equipped and prepared.

These southern beaches are the ones to head to for the calmest seas when the north “meltimi” winds blow fiercely .

PALEOCHORI & TOURLOS

The marvel of Milos’ volcanic past can be felt at Paleochori,  creating a kaleidoscope of colours and unique snorkelling sights. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are both transparent and full of colour. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). The seabed here gets steep quickly, and is better suited for young children on calm days – also when the beach is most beautiful. Check the wind direction, which should be blowing from the north for the best conditions.

If you can’t find sunbeds on Paleochori (the 2024 summer season saw the majority removed as operators await government permits), backup is within easy reach: quieter Tourlos beach is a half-a-minute’s drive away (put a Google map pin on Deep Blue cafe-bar – the stairs here lead down to the beach) with waters similarly striking.

Three resident restaurant-bars spread out on its shores. Earth-toned Sirocco is the main attraction, well-known for its signature style of sand-cooked fare heated geothermically in pits. While it has all the romantic beginnings of being started by a fisherman who discovered he could cook an egg in its sand, it has now morphed into a modern boho-chic restaurant serving inspired and creative cuisine. Public parking is located directly behind Sirocco, although this gets packed out quickly. If you’re planning on dining at Pelagos, parking is available behind the tavern as well. 

In the mood for aquatic action? PITS Watersports will equip you with jet skis, wakeboards, waterskis, SUPs, and an array of inflatables.

THE PORT BEACHES – PAPIKINOU (ADAMAS) & POLLONIA

Not destination beaches in themselves, but the port beaches of Papikinou and Pollonia are worth mentioning if you’re staying in the area. The sandy, tree-lined bays have waters both tepid and transparent. Cult taverna draw O! Hamos! have sunbeds and parasols for rent on Papikinou, while The Deck has furnished a corner of Pollonia with padded lounging comforts.

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.  

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Japanese monastery, devotees seek Zen in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected transplant of a laudable contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

Is Serifos family-friendly? While it might not have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros, it’s certainly not family-unfriendly. There are some “organised” beaches (as they say in Greece) with beach bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds. And while the really special ones are not organised, they offer other child-friendly desirables like tavernas on the beach. You will also find a scattering of covetable seafront hotels and villas that make daily beach trips with little legs a breeze.

Beach revelries aside, there’s not heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere, and in perfectly-formed Serifos, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port might seem like an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with many conveniences (mini markets, boutiques, seafront tavernas and on-trend cafés ). In addition, it has the island’s longest beach. But before booking into a property here, look into neighbouring Livadakia. Still within close proximity to Livadi’s amenities, the beach here boasts lovelier waters. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea is calm, clear, shallow, and lined with wispy mounds of tamarisk trees. You’ll also find cafés providing sunbeds and parasol comforts on its golden shores.

A big draw of Greece’s quieter islands for us are the intimate, boutique hideaways sitting directly on impressive arcs of sand. In Serifos, you will find such gems in Vagia and Ganema (where we stayed).

Alternatively, immerse yourselves in arresting views flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset by staying in Chora – Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital. With double-height steps to battle with, a boot full of luggage, and an unreliable walker in hand, this mountain village option will probably look more ideal in a few years.

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches, of the pearly-white and turquoise variety, rival the best in the Cyclades. They’re also not hard to reach. Here, we list three of the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives.

— PSILLI AMMOS —

A dreamy bay with fine white sand and aquamarine waters, petite Psilli Ammos promises a good time for small splashers. And you will be in the company of many. But it’s not organised, so we armed ourselves with umbrellas and beach chairs, prepared to plant ourselves on the shores for hours, as Greeks do.

Two tavernas (Stefanakos and Manolis) set-up shop every summer for the happy convenience of beach-goers. Finding a prized spot on the balcony of Sefanakos overlooking the Aegean, we tucked into a traditional taverna menu of rooster pasta, moussaka, pork tiganites (cubes of fried pork), and perfectly-fried fries. Post-meal, you can whisk fresh orange juice (and ice-cold vodka tonics) from the restaurant-bar to the beach as often as you like. It’s a handy set-up for everyone.

— AGIOS IOANNIS —

From Psilli Ammos, a short drive north to the next bay will reveal the similarly impressive waters of Agios Ioannis. And while the beauty of its waters are comparable to its more popular neighbour, it’s vastly less busy. Likely for the lack of tavernas or cafés on the beach. There are ten or so skimpy tamarisks to steal shade under if you go early enough. Parking is available close by so you won’t have to carry your picnic basket far.

— GANEMA —

Not an obvious top pick, Ganema has a few great things going for it: With its southerly position (along with other sheltered coves like Vagia), this is where you want to be when the northern Meltemi winds blow brutally. One kilometer long, it’s also one-part pebbly, and one-part sandy, allowing finicky children to take their pick. Little D doesn’t enjoy sand between her toes, so we headed to the pebbly side where a mini mountain stack of boulders call-out for a bit of rock scaling fun. The girls cannot resist. 

My favourite thing about Ganema is Grandma’s. A family-run café with bistro chairs huddled under the generous cover of oversized tamarisks. Most of our mornings were spent here with iced chocolates and coffees while the kids built bridges with twigs, and castles with pebbles by the table. If you’re staying for lunch, Grandma’s menu is a simple, but well-executed selection of burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and seafood classics.

The sandy side of Ganema saw slick new restaurant and club SAAN debuting this year. Providing umbrellas and sunbeds for rent on the beach, its bar is far busier than its restaurant, stirring up endless cocktails for thirsty beach loungers.

VILLAGE WALKS

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both small, with a handful of smart boutiques and some nightlife. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi with its mining history and historical building remnants is probably the more interesting of these.

— LIVADI —

The port village is the liveliest one, and home to a selection of seafood taverns lining the waterfront. Tis Kalis is the taverna on every local’s lips. Serving fresh-caught seafood with an artful touch, you can have your Fagri (our fish catch of choice) grilled plain to perfection, or squid ink orzo laced with fuchsia pink pomegranate seeds. In the company of fussy eaters? Toss the healthier choices aside for a fried seafood basket. We dined in the afternoon when it was less busy, but if you’re going for dinner, make reservations.

If you are of the normal-lunch-hour-going type, take note that most of the taverns in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 2 p.m., if they open at all for lunch), in true Greek tradition. Check opening times before you go.

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, Blue Bamboo made me blink twice when I spotted it on Google maps. Indeed, it was the real thing from Athens, and the palate refresher I needed after three weeks of Asian food deprivation. Laced with strings of fairy lights, their garden grounds twinkle festively at night. With liberal amounts of space for the kids scamper in between tables, parents here can enjoy some actual time to peacefully dine. Serving traditional Thai favourites with a twist, I was happy to visit more than thrice in our five-day trip if that didn’t seem excessive for my Greek husband.

Also good-to-know in Livadi is Indigo Bakery – nondescript on the outside, but spilling over with a pie and sweet celebration within stylised interiors. It’s the stop we make en route to destination beaches so we can stuff our bags with kolouri (sesame-sprinked doughnut-shaped bread) for the afternoon.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving an uphill climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. A veritable feat with strollers, bring your baby carrier instead.

If anyone needs encouragement along the ascent, there’s ice-cream at the top. “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked meat slices stuffed in pita bread along with fries) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos Grill for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

Climb all the flights of stairs towards the top, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and tavernas with tables spilling out into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious tavernas serving meze-type fare.

All-day Stou Stratou is the most talked about, while Louis is your next best option if you don’t want to join the scuffle for tables at Stou Stratou. But space is tight in the square, and after one night out with the kids within the squeeze of its walls, we decided against dining there again with young children.

There’s a public parking lot near the bus station at the entrance of Ano (Upper) Chora. But as space is limited, it’s a good idea to visit early, before the sunset-seeking crowd packs in.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. But it’s also just a two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port. Sitting on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with an airport you can fly into), it takes just 20 minutes to cross over from Sifnos. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach and he has a flourishing IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.