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    • Practical Greece – Know Before You Go
      • Travel Tips

        Practical Greece – Know Before You Go

        Aug 04, 2025

        Travel Tips

        The Best Thing to Add to Your Holiday…

        Jul 19, 2025

        Travel Tips

        Selecting Accomodation in Greece? Avoid These Mistakes

        Feb 06, 2023

        Travel Tips

        Driving in Greece

        Jan 30, 2023

        Travel Tips

        How to Plan a Sweat-Free Summer in Greece…

        Jan 29, 2022

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Through the Blue

FALL IN LOVE WITH GREECE. AEGEAN ADVENTURES FOR FAMILIES.

Category:

Cyclades

Island group in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece, uniquely characterised by simple yet striking blue and white architecture.

Cyclades

SIFNOS or SERIFOS? Which Island is for You?

by Lindsay Jul 12, 2022
written by Lindsay
Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos

Both 75 square kilometres in size and full of Cycladic charm, Sifnos and Serifos are separated by a 20-minute fast-ferry ride across the Aegean. Apart from their first letters, what else do they share? Outlining the differences that make them uniquely alluring, here’s how to take your pick if you only have time for one.

If you love a dreamy beach

Serifos has beaches more dazzling and diverse than Sifnos. From aquamarine Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis, to dark and wild Ganema, these waters are all you expect from Greece’s reputation for stunning shores. At the same time, its beach scene is not as developed as Sifnos, where the island’s best beaches are conveniently “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols, as they say in Greece) for travelling families. Providing amenities at your doorstep, Sifnos is the island to choose if you prioritise convenience over beach brilliance.

  • Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos
    Aquamarine waters in Psilli Ammos Beach, Serifos
  • Light shades of blue at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
    More perfect shores at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
  • Platis Gialos is our favourite beach in Sifnos – not as impressive, but organised with beach bars and more backing the beach

If you appreciate a raw and rugged aesthetic 

While both islands are mountainous, Serifos is a stunner. Visually striking with imposing peaks and stark landforms carpeted by low and dry vegetation, its landscape has inspired some extraordinary architecture built in synchrony with its surroundings.  In contrast, Sifnos’ fertile hillscapes have been extensively and carefully cultivated. Rolling terraced mountains are covered with olive and almond trees for a softer, greener countryside.

  • Serifos Chora
    Serifos’ Chora dipped in peachy sunset hues. Image credit: Despina Galani.
  • Mountainscapes in sunset at Serifos
    Sunset drives on the way to Serifos’ Chora
  • Serifos Mountainscape
    Views of Megalo Livadi village from the Throne of Cyclops in Serifos
  • Artemon village in Sifnos
    It’s a little greener in Sifnos

If you love Greek villages 

What Sifnos lacks in beaches, it makes up for in its villages. While Serifos has two main villages of interest (a tiny hilltop Chora and portside Livadi), Sifnos has a handful. Mountain top Apollonia is its liveliest, with bursts of bougainvillaea cascading down colourful shopfronts that lead onto blue domed churches around the corner. Quiet Artemonas has a subtly stately vibe and a special sweet store (Theodorou). And most memorably, medieval Kastro is fascinating, apart from being especially beautiful. And of course, the seaside villages of Platis Gialos, Kamares and Vathy provide many opportunities for coffees, cocktails, and souvenir shopping in between beach dips.

  • Shops in the Apollonia, Sifnos
    Sifnos has an assortment of villages to explore, all uniquely colourful and charming
  • Main square of the Chora in Serifos
    Serifos’ Chora is smaller than that of Sifnos

If you like shopping 

Unless you’re into souvenir magnets and such, shopping is not a thing in Serifos. Sifnos, with larger villages, includes a handful of shops that entice with curated island chic, alongside a centuries-old pottery scene. Take home exquisitely crafted tableware and traditional casserole earthenware that promise the magic touch in your next slow-cooked meal.

If you’re culturally curious

Sifnos has a greater array of archaeological sites, historical towers and dazzling churches to fill cultural appetites. Off-beach sites of interest in Serifos are spartan, and perhaps interesting mainly because of the breathtaking panoramas from their lofty vantage points.

  • Sunset walk at Kastro, Sifnos
    This cliffside walk in Kastro (built on the ruins of the island’s ancient capital) leads to The Church of Seven Matyrs
  • Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
    The iconic Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
  • Cyclops Throne in Serifos
    Cyclops Throne, one of Serifos’ main off-beach attractions, offered lovely views but was slightly lackluster in itself

If you’re into fine dining 

Truth be told, Sifnos, with it’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise, did not stand out dramatically for us. Yet, it boasts modern fine dining finesse with celebrity-frequented, experimental outposts like Omega3 and Cantina. Also, being more developed, there are more options to choose from. Serifos’ islanders tended to point us to a familiar list of go-to tavernas. It did have one edge for us, however – Blue Bamboo, a contemporary Thai restaurant from Athens was a welcome palette refresher after one-too-many tomato-based meals. 

  • Cantina in Seralia, Sifnos
    Cantina is Sifnos’ most exciting culinary offer yet
  • Seaside tavern in Livadi, Serifos
    Dining in Serifos is more traditional. Image credit: Cantina

If you have young children 

With a more developed tourist infrastructure, Sifnos is convenient. For ultimate ease, choose a village by the beach, like Platis Gialos (our top pick), Kamares and Vathy. Livadaki in Serifos offers a similar set-up, but is otherwise the only such option for convenience on the island.

  • Platis Gialos Beach
    Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
  • Livadakia Beach Serifos
    Livadakia beach in Serifos, with the amenities of Livadi village nearby
Jul 12, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

Sifnos: The Gourmet Greek Island That’s Perfect for Young Families

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022
written by Lindsay
Chrysopigi Church in Sifnos

Dainty, dazzling and delicious, Sifnos is a soulful delight with a hint of posh.

In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays. 


🏖️ 🤿 👨‍🌾 🥾 🏛️ 🏺

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its unique village charm.

But the island is a thumb-smudge of a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it really as impressive as some reviews suggest? 

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a languid rhythm even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine barefoot wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough. 

The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Cloaked in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with guesthouses, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up great cocktails). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

  • Luminescence at Platis Gialos beach
  • Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Omega3 Fish and Wine Bar – fine dining, if manage what to do with accompanying kids.
  • Bakery in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Our usual bakery stop behind the mini mart next to Omega3. Go early – a lot runs out by noon
  • Lost bay beach bar, Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Lost bay beach bar in Platis Gialos – all we could want in cocktails by the sea

We stayed at Miles Away, the beach just steps from our patio. Perfectly appointed and in a prime location, a few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, a bleary-eyed saunter to Palmira would get the day started with a wake-up brew. A few doors down at To Steki, we might break for a hearty lunch exemplary of traditional Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 another few doors away, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience that arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

A modest playground by the sea at Platis Gialos.

The mini market next to Omega3 catered to most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb. 

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free . Bounded by towering mountains on each side, a portside buzz reverberates from the main road running through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares.

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne shores and aquamarine waters of Koufonisia and Naxos, the islands’ muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

Azure waters in Apokofto.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. While small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts promenade with fitted shirts and cropped pants.

Walking through the main street of Apollonia – life begins at sunset in Greek villages.

As with most Greek mountain villages with innumerable steps to battle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit to avoid the heat. Like the shops and cafes that close for a 2pm to 5pm siesta, it’s a good idea to follow suit with a delayed nap so the kids can keep up with village children dashing around playgrounds and squares on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

Apollonia village in Sifnos
Smart boutiques full of colour and charm in Apollonia.
— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, the island’s ancient capital inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

Kastro Village Walkway
The cliffside path to the Church of the Seven Matyrs.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Home to Greece’s first celebrity chef, there are modern dining options that rival experienced counterparts in Santorini within its terraced and smartly cultivated mountainous terrain. But beyond deconstructed meals, an embellished reputation, and romantic accounts of sage and thyme scented air, truth be told, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and very good restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands.

So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools in haute-hip hotspots?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Initiating us into the island’s revered recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful at family-run To Steki was soul-warming, Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a play area of sandy shores lies below.

To Steki for traditional Sifnian dishes.
— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a beautiful lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

Chrisopigi tavern on Apoftoko beach.
— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

  • Drakakis Taverna, Apollonia, Sifnos
    Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
  • Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, a little too early in Spring might mean many businesses have yet to open, or too late in Autumn and they have already shut for the season. The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos the boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can also fly into Mykonos (2 hours by fast ferry) or Milos (40-minuts by fast ferry). More island hopping itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO SIFNOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing from Pireaus port.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Sifnos

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022
written by Lindsay
Platis Gialos, Sifnos

Where do you throw your towels down (or not) in-between sampling Sifnos‘ famous gastronomic flavours? While the island’s main draw is not stunning shores, Sifnos boasts a particular benefit for young families: an attractive set-up of shallow bays nestled within relaxed villages boasting an excellent choice of seaside tavernas and cafes – a joy for parents with little legs to herd around.

Of all the easily accessible options, we list our favourites here. Some “organised” (as they say in Greece, providing loungers and parasols), others offering natural shade, and all complete with dining options for an easy skip from sunbed, to taverna, or beach bar. 

PLATIS GIALOS

Wide and sandy in the southern end of Sifnos, Platis Gialos is our pick for the island’s most attractive swimming. The left corner (as you face the beach) is free from rocky hindrances on its seabed, with glassy waters inching up to waist height after a lengthy 100 meters. While some bits are organised, it’s not smothered with sunbeds. And if you’ve left your beach toys behind, the mini market next to dining hotspot Omega3 has fishing nets, shovels, and buckets. Fringed by boutique hotels, chic cafes, smart restaurants and traditional tavernas, there’s also a small playground by the beach (next to NUS restaurant).

 

  • Platis Gialos Beach
    Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
  • Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos

The seaside villages of Kamares and Vathy have a similarly convenient set-up. All organised, sheltered shorelines and shallow waters make these alternative child-friendly options. Yet, with towering mountains flanking the deep-set harbour of Kamares, and the omega-shaped bay of Vathy feeling more like swimming in a lake, we found Platis Gialos the most attractive of the three.   

APOKOFTO

Touched with the charm of Chrisopogi church commanding its corner, Apokofto’s azure waters are marvelously clear. The seabed, however, is slightly steeper than in Platis Gialos, and rocky in parts. It’s wavier here than at Platis Gialos, and better with older kids in company. Unorganised, a scattering of tamarisk trees offer relief from the sun. Go early to secure a spot. 

  • Eat, dip, eat
  • Chrisopigi Church at Sunset
    Exploring Chrisopigi at sunset

Tucked away behind the beach, Way Cup roaster is serious about coffee. Aside from a perfect cappuccino, it also serves cocktails, smoothies and juice. Hang out on their sun-dappled terrace, or save your drinks for the beach. For post-swim meals, there are two taverns by the sea. We dined at Chrisopigi tavern twice in our seven of stay days.  

GLYFO

The three mini beach bays of Glyfo, Faros, and Fassalou sit in sequence southeast of the island. Glyfo, separated from Faros by a small village, is the most attractive in its picturesque seclusion. Without road access (park at Faros), a short trek through the village will lead to the bay. Unorganised, tamarisk trees line its shore for shade, where calm and shallow waters stretch out for about 50 meters. On the opposite end from where you enter, a short and scenic hiking path leads you the the church of Agios Charalampos, and then to Chrysopigi.

  • Glyfo beach in Sifnos
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Mykonos

by Lindsay Jan 22, 2022
written by Lindsay
Kalo Livadi Beach

On an island notorious for parties, crowds, and rambunctious extravagance, where can you go to find a family-friendly share of its sparkling blue seas (and not have to splash obscene amounts of money)?

Confused by drunkenly divergent online reviews of what’s best in Mykonos, we went from coast-to-coast to find seaside sanctuaries that are as relaxed as is Mykonianly possible. It turned out that “coast-to-coast” here involved convoluted loops inland, then back out onto a bit of shore that could be just next door.  So to save you from a similar hassle, our top picks are listed here in rank order. I’ve also included why some other beaches you might read about didn’t appeal to us, in case your stylistic preferences resonate with ours.

KALO LIVADI

On the island’s overcrowded southern fringe, Kalo Livadi is a literal breath of fresh air. There’s even a sweep of sunbed-free space on the right as you face the sea. For now, visitors can enjoy its turquoise waters and soft white sand in relative serenity. Wade in and the water gradually drops to (adult) waist-height after about 50 meters. Not the shallowest, but still good for child’s play.

Kalo Livadi Beach
Kalo Livadi beach with its two beach clubs, Lohan and Solymar (the louder of the two)

Two beach clubs have secured covetable real estate on its shores. Unlike its namesake, nautical-themed Lohan is laid-back. Socially distant beds surround an airy canopy of sails covering the central bar. There’s easy electronica in the background, and along with whitewashed furnishings, all is soothing. The sunbeds at Lohan cost €30 a pair (cheap on Mykonos, although prices on the island seem to fluctuate with the wind). Ample free parking is located directly behind. 

ELIA

Elia is perhaps more striking than Kalo Livadi, but also with more admirers. The good – one of the island’s longest beaches, you don’t feel the crowd as much as on smaller bays like the Paradise, Paraga or Ornos. A smattering of ultra-luxe hotels provide beachfront accommodation. Elegant constructions dressed in muted hues, these low-slung volumes discreetly blend into their surroundings. 

Elia beach
Elia’s waters are perfection

Like other natural beauties before it, a recent remodel has fitted Elia with loungers from end-to-end (Book one here). There’s still some slivers of free space in between assembly blocks of sunbeds.  With faint music in the background, the ambience here is easy. Sunbeds cost €50 per pair.

Elia Beach
Parking at Elia is right behind the beach

Before you get excited about the hidden section past the rocky headland at the edge of the carpark, it’s useful to know that this is also nudist territory.  

PARADISE

Why have we included this beach with a party-hard reputation in our list? Tropicana, a club without the notorious island attitude, is actually pretty laid-back before 4 p.m.. It’s also without the pole dancers of neighbouring Super Paradise. The crowd, less determined to make a scene, is still more self-conscious than is relaxing. Selfie-taking borders on obsessive, and the occasional young siren bares her chest for a photo op with the club photographer. 

Tropicana Beach Club on Paradise Beach
Tropicana Beach Club on Paradise beach, where we didn’t expect to settle into

Sandbags and sun loungers fill the shore, so we focus our gaze on the stunning aquamarine waters beyond. The seabed has sections of reef for feet to watch out for, which is also home to an array of marine life – bring snorkeling equipment. Sunbeds cost €35 a pair and there’s a €10 minimum spend. Parking was free as well.

Tropicana Beach
A slice of Paradise

AGRARI

Quieter Agrari perhaps deserves third spot over fourth with an expanse of free beach to tumble around. At its center is tranquil Agrari restaurant-bar-cafe. Wood patio-style furniture spread out under the leafy green canopy of a little forest of tamarisks. 

Agrari Beach Bar
Agrari Beach bar and restaurant – delightfully bare and relaxed

So what’s not to love at Agrari? With mustard-yellow sand, it’s waters were just not quite the shade of piercing blue we idealise. It also has a reefier seabed. But if natural, raw and free, with some organisation (loungers, food and drink) is your priority, this is it. Free parking is located directly behind. 

Agrari Beach
The golden shores of quieter and lesser-known Agrari

AGIOS SOSTIS

One of the last few beaches on Mykonos that has escaped development, northern Agios Sostis is for throwing your towels down to relish on beaches unblemished. The difference in atmosphere here is distinct – rugged and real, with a dark and wild appeal. Resident taverna KiKi’s, a local cult favourite known for mouthwatering grills, has also remained largely unchanged since the 80s. Small and nondescript, expect a one to two hour wait for a meal here. Parking is a bit of a challenge on the narrow strip of road leading down to the beach, but we’ve always managed without too much difficulty. There are no facilities here, so bring water and everything you need for a day on the beach.

Agios Sostis Beach
Bare and beautiful Agios Sostis north of the island

AND THE OTHER BEACHES WE VISITED?

The waters of Shirley Valentine’s Agios Ioannis were not as dreamy as we envisioned (Agrari would have been a better option), with lots of rocks in the seabed. Paraga was exorbitant, although by the time we got there, we were tired of travelling and ready to spend. Prepared to splurge, we headed to Scorpios. But without a booking, nothing was available. Ornos was so crowded with people on the shore and boats out at sea, I could have been on the east coast of Singapore. And Platis Gialos felt too built-up with squeezed-together hotel blocks marring the shorefront. 

Agios Ioannis Beach
Agios Ioannis with Hippie Fish club in the background
Agios Ioannis Beach
The waters at Agios Ioannis was not as impressive as we expected

Still confused? Approach family travel specialists in Greece, Mamakita. We wish we did before we attempted the island ourselves.

Jan 22, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Milos

by Lindsay Jan 11, 2022
written by Lindsay
Tourlos beach, next to the more popular Paleochori.

Last updated: 29 Jul 2024

Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.

ACHIVADOLIMNI

A 10 -minute drive from the main port, Achivadolimni’s protected waters are ideal for young children with waters that stay waist deep even 20 meters in. Calm and clear, a beguiling ombre of blue stretches towards Adamantas village opposite. Daddies prop up naked babies in armbands, toddlers splash confidently in Swim Trainers, and our girls practice snorkelling in  preparation for the deeper waters of Paleochori. Sporadically, a plane flies by. A passing ferry might also stir up a series of waves, eliciting shrieks of excitement from kids as they’re rocked by the waters.

Achivadolimni Beach in Milos, Greece

Next to the lifeguard tower, a basic bar-shack rents out straw umbrellas and sunbeds  for €20 a pair. It has a wider than expected canteen-type menu: fruit juices and salads, sandwiches, burgers – enough to satiate hungry kids.

Parking is directly behind the beach.

PROVOTAS

Provotas is a perfect little bay for toddlers in tow. Subtly stunning, with sparkling waters and powdery sand, the gentle seabed stays near-flat for more than fifty meters out. On the beach, the resident hotel (Golden Milos) rents padded sun loungers and offers refreshment for €50 a new island high of pair (as of 2024). Park directly behind on the road that runs parallel to the beach. There’s a shower near the exit for a quick rinse before you return to the car.

Provotas Beach Parking
Provotas beach bay with a small “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols for rent) section.
Provotas Milos Seascape
Powdery golden sand on Provotas and Agios Sostis are perfect for sandcastle building.

If you’re in the area and don’t mind throwing your towel down on the beach instead, check out neigbouring Agios Sostis. Harder to reach, follow a short dirt road before arriving at the start of a 60-step stairway down. The bay below also harbours shallow, crystal clear waters, and our favourite for a swim in perfect tranquility. There is no shade or amenities here, however, so arrive equipped and prepared.

Agios Sostis beach in Milos
The stairs down to Agios Sostis is pictured on the right of the beach when you’re viewing it from the water.

These southern beaches are the ones to head to for the calmest seas when the north “meltimi” winds blow fiercely .

PALEOCHORI & TOURLOS

The marvel of Milos’ volcanic past can be felt at Paleochori,  creating a kaleidoscope of colours and unique snorkelling sights. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are both transparent and full of colour. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). The seabed here gets steep quickly, and is better suited for young children on calm days – also when the beach is most beautiful. Check the wind direction, which should be blowing from the north for the best conditions.

If you can’t find sunbeds on Paleochori (the 2024 summer season saw the majority removed as operators await government permits), backup is within easy reach: quieter Tourlos beach is a half-a-minute’s drive away (put a Google map pin on Deep Blue cafe-bar – the stairs here lead down to the beach) with waters similarly striking.

Paleochori beach, Milos
Dreamy Paleochori.
Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos
Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos beach is a few minutes drive from Paleochori.

Three resident restaurant-bars spread out on its shores. Earth-toned Sirocco is the main attraction, well-known for its signature style of sand-cooked fare heated geothermically in pits. While it has all the romantic beginnings of being started by a fisherman who discovered he could cook an egg in its sand, it has now morphed into a modern boho-chic restaurant serving inspired and creative cuisine. Public parking is located directly behind Sirocco, although this gets packed out quickly. If you’re planning on dining at Pelagos, parking is available behind the tavern as well. 

Pelagos Tavern and Cafe, Paleochori
Mesmerising views at Pelagos tavern and cafe.

In the mood for aquatic action? PITS Watersports will equip you with jet skis, wakeboards, waterskis, SUPs, and an array of inflatables.

THE PORT BEACHES – PAPIKINOU (ADAMAS) & POLLONIA

Not destination beaches in themselves, but the port beaches of Papikinou and Pollonia are worth mentioning if you’re staying in the area. The sandy, tree-lined bays have waters both tepid and transparent. Cult taverna draw O! Hamos! have sunbeds and parasols for rent on Papikinou, while The Deck has furnished a corner of Pollonia with padded lounging comforts.

Papikinou Beach in Adamas Port, Milos
Papinikou beach on the fringe of Adamas, near the famed O! Hamos! taverna with sunbeds on the beach.
Jan 11, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Quiet Drama of Serifos: A Family Guide

by Lindsay Sep 29, 2021
written by Lindsay
Serifos view from the Chora

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.  


🏖️🤿🏺

Last updated: 29 June 2025

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and sprawling estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Zen monastery, devotees discover the original self through meditation and yoga in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s dramatic hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected outpost of a contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

On the road to Ganema, boutique design hotels with expansive ocean views dot the cliff’s edge.

With its wild and untamed allure, is Serifos family-friendly? Comparatively undeveloped, it doesn’t have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros. And while the “organised” (as they say in Greece, referring to beaches with cafe-bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds) bits of beaches are limited, other sweet spots offer amenities like tavernas on the beach.

Beyond the sand, there isn’t heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere. In this authentic, carnation-shaped island, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children: climb the low-slung tree branches on the shores of Livadaki, build sandcastles on Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek), scale rocks at Ganema, make friends… Greek children are an especially friendly lot, and will often hover around other children, or even approach your taverna table to strike up a new playmate.

Climbing tamarisk trees at Livadakia, Serifos, Greece
Climbing tamarisks at Livadaki.

My vote for the best thing to do on the island for families against its cinematic backdrop ? The family photoshoot. Dads may wince at the sound of this, but I have never brought home a souvenir from Greece I treasure more. As I tore the family from the beach and chased them like chickens to meet photographer (and award-winning island beekeeper) Nikos Kokolakis at 6:30pm at the Chora, I started to question the wisdom of my arrangement. But after sighting the artful keepsakes he delivered, I would do it ten times over again.

Family photoshoot in Serifos, Greecce

Serifos is one of the easier Cylcadic islands to get to. While flights are not an option without an airport, it’s just a two-and-a-half hour high-speed ferry ride away from Piraeus port in Athens.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port is an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with its conveniences (mini markets, bakeries, a pharmacy, seafront tavernas, cafés and gelaterias). Also consider neighbouring Livadakia if a good beach is important to you. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea here is a notch more beautiful than Livadi’s, with waters that are calm, clear, shallow, and bordered by wispy mounds of tamarisk crests.

The port of Livadi, also with the island’s longest beach and the calmest waters.

Alternatively, a selection of boutique hideaways dot the edge of the beaches of Agios Sostis, Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis (all just 10 minutes from Livadi). Thinking of the southern side? Vagia and Ganema located farther out also offer seafront accomodation, but are more isolated.

While Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital (“Chora”) draws with arresting vistas flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset, I’d advise against this option. Strewn with footpaths featuring an endless terrace of double-height steps to battle with, it’s not designed for people with little legs. It’s also not designed for cars. As the evening sets in, you are likely to find yourself meandering through its streets to find parking for half and hour with one small public lot that quickly fills up.

BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches rival the best in the Cyclades. Those in the south-eastern quarter boast the turquoise and gold variety. Its southern shores have a dark and wild appeal due to the presence of iron oxide once responsible for its mining wealth. Here, we list the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives. Remember to have a plan for shade. It’s also a good idea to check the wind strength and direction before heading out, because instead of crystal calm waters, you might find heady waves when the north meltimi winds blow at 6 beauforts.

Serifos’ beaches are stunning (here at Psilli Ammos), including child-friendly options.

VILLAGE WALKS (AND CHILD-FRIENDLY EATS)

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both bite-sized, with a handful of smart boutiques and an unexpectedly pulsating nightlife in the square of the Chora. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi is the more interesting, with building remnants attesting to its mining history that are worth exploring.

— LIVADI —

Small, but complete, Livadi is where you will consistently return to for coffee (Indigo makes a good roast), ice cream (Scoop, or neighbouring Cherie for rainbow sprinkles on top), peponi (honey-sweet Greek melons) and peaches from the mini mart (K Supermarket is the most well-stocked),  and plasters from the pharmacy.

All-important gelaterias at the port of Livadi.

A diverse selection of tavernas line the waterfront. Most are squeezed close to the port, with little space to play. Head to the quieter side of the beach where Axinos sits for a thoroughly more relaxed setting. Oozing laid back cool in neutral platteted interiors, its menu is an enticing mix of modern Greek. You can order a lamb shank or T-bone steak, but seafood is the highlight, where succulent crayfish swim in silky risotto, and juicy-crisp grouper sits grilled on a celeriac bed. There’s also an exciting dessert selection to finish.  Take note that many restaurants in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 4 pm in classic Greek tradition), apart from beach tavernas. Check opening times before you count on being served.

Axinos seafood taverna in Serifos, Greece
Our favourite dining experience on the island – Axinos

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, I blinked twice when I spotted Blue Bamboo on Google maps. Asian food in Greek islands is typically not to be trusted, but this is the real Thai food transport from Athens. Unlike its cramped Athenian counterpart, its spacious boho-chic garden grounds are laced with fairy-light garlands for a festive atmosphere. There’s liberal ground for playful scampers in between tables, so parents can count on dining peacefully on pad thais, red curries, and tom kha gai (coconut based soup).

Blue Bamboo Thai Restaurant in Serifos
Thai foood relief at Blue Bamboo

Too tired to eat out? A mageireio is what you’re looking for. At Taverna Marina by the port, a display of home-style Greek dishes greets you at the kitchen counter, ready to be packed up for takeaway. Think comforting, slow-cooked recipes without the wait of a restaurant meal.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is an unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving a seemingly endless climb up a maze of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. Impossible with strollers, bring your baby carrier and trained glutes instead.

The Chora, with the parking lot pictured in the foreground. Image credit: Despina Galani.

Follow any flight of stairs upwards, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The diminutive heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and restaurants with tables spilling into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious eateries serving meze-type fare.

  • Square
    Agios Athanasios square in Ano (Upper) Chora at sunset.
  • Souvlaki Grill Bar in Serifos' Chora
    Stop by Skaraveos for succulent souvlaki in Ano Chora.
  • Town hall of Serifos
    Serifos’ neoclassical townhall.

Continue towards the castle top, resisting the temptation to turn back on the steep ascent through quiet residential streets. Even with kids. It won’t be long before you reach the church of Agios Konstantinos, teetering 823 feet above the sea with the most magnificent island vistas.

If anyone needs encouragement along the way, “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades (doughnut-like balls) bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, a promise of pita gyros—succulent slices of rotisserie-cooked pork with fries tucked into warm pita—is just as effective. Stop by Skaraveos for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

It pays to visit the Chora in the early evening, giving you ample time before sunset to soak in the views. Parking anyways in the one public parking lot (near the bus station at the entrance of Ano or Upper Chora) is limited, so a head start before the lingering beach crowds make their way will reward greatly.

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tall tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach, and he has an IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. A two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port, it sits on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with a domestic airport). Mykonos also has international connections and is a 2 hour fast-ferry away. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

FIND A FERRY TO SERIFOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing for ferries to Sifnos from Pireaus.

Sep 29, 2021 0 comment
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Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Heavenly Holiday or Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021
written by Lindsay
Scorpios Mykonos

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing. 


🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏇🏻 🎨 🏛️

But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to find precious breathing corners on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees. We share them here.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – a stunning shoreline. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches in a country where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs.

It’s not that I don’t appreciate the comforts of a parasol and sunbed—especially when travelling with young children, when there’s already enough to carry without adding umbrellas and beach chairs to the list. But when almost an entire beach is given over to organised seating, the sense of openness that makes a day by the sea so restorative begins to disappear.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece
While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In upscale Paraga, that’s €80 of burgers and club sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family frequenting the beach daily, the price tag is a hefty one for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from north Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats: 

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space on Elia, in spite of a sea of parasols. A slip of sand dividing the main from the nudist section allows free campers to throw their towels down. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in Maldivian shades of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is located right behind.  

Elia Beach Mykonos
Elia beach – after the rock outcrop at the end of the first beach, you will find the nudist section on the next.
— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Taking center stage is Lohan beach house, as subdued as its namesake low-key status after infamy in her younger, wilder years. With widely spaced-out sunbeds and a relaxing palette of-neutral toned interiors, this was an unexpected haven of contemporary cool.

Sparkling, shallow waters at Kato Livadi.
— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well. 

So after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed to revisiting the hangouts of our youth where we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach, in spite of the reputations of its resident beach clubs (Paradise and Super Paradise) on the islands most famous beach coves. Tropicana was our first stop on the stretch for no particular reason. And suggesting a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend, we settled here. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m. as the late-starters stream in. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, it starts at a bearable volume level with the day, but grows louder with the setting sun.

Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find local artisan Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we escaped to the waterfront one street away for a coffee. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot) or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece
Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys. 

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach. 

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos sits a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

Fokos Taverna
Fokos Tavern looks out towards dark, elemental and unorganised Fokos beach.
— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

Limnios Tavern Mykonos
Limnios Tavern with a sea view in delightfully drowsy Agios Stefanos.
— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a place worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails leading to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. Instead of soul-warming dishes distilled from the recipes of successive generations of Greek yiayias (Grandmas), minute portions of deconstructed fare were presented by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or using it as a stopover (instead of Athens) to ferry to other destinations in the Cyclades from Europe. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the enduring magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures still hover over 20°C. Spring in Greece is also always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Avoid July and August at all costs. And while winter travel is possible, take note that many businesses start to close in late October. 

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. Refurbished in 2021, their Cycladic-cool airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two-and-a-half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

FIND A FERRY TO MYKONOS

Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Mykonos from Pireaus port.

Sep 21, 2021 0 comment
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Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020
written by Lindsay
Paros Harbour Greece

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?


🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏇🏽 🦋 🎨 🏺 👨‍🌾 🏐

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible. 

She’s also balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white lychnite marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island,
Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. At first glance, it can feel like a tourist-oriented jumble of ferry traffic, waterfront tavernas and souvenir shops. But venture beyond the harbour and you’ll discover an old town that has retained much of its village charm. Built atop a settlement dating back to the 2nd millennium BCE, fragments of its long history reveal themselves around unexpected corners, from ancient masonry incorporated into whitewashed buildings, to the three 18th-century Mavrogenous marble fountains that once served as a gathering place for locals. When it’s time for a pause, settle into Symposium for coffee and a crêpe. Perched slightly above the lane beneath a canopy of bougainvillea, it’s a lovely spot to linger and watch the world wander by.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

The Old Town of Parikia has a village vibe that is more pronounced than cosmo-posh Naoussa.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea.

— ALYKI —

If your ideal summer holiday is one of quiet languor, consider Alyki. Just a 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unspoilt little fishing village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

  • Alyki Promenade in Paros
    The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
  • Alyki playground in Paros
    Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
  • Agios Nikolaous beach in Alyki, Paros
    Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
  • Mouragio Seafood tavern in Alyki
    Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros). 

Santa Maria beach in Paros
Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (complete with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.  

Butterfly garden paros
Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for striking sculptural vessels with graceful, fluid forms.

Lefkes village in Paros
Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment
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Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020
written by Lindsay
Agios Prokopis Beach on Naxos

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.


🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏐🏺 🎨 👨‍🌾 🐝🏇 ⛰️🏛️ִ

Last updated 23 Jul 2026

Greece is blessed with an abundance of alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, itself conveniently close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach to swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (pottery workshops, “Farmer for a Day” experiences,, bee farm visits, horse-riding, even a waterpark, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

View towards Portara in Naxos
The island’s icon, the Potara in the far distance is an easy walk from town.

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system zips you from town to its main beach attractions.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars crammed in. In particular, I’d avoid Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit unpleasant smells.

Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis
Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis.

Moving south through Naxos’ fertile western lowlands, farmland gradually gives way to holiday homes set within generous gardens and open fields separated by tall bamboo hedges. Some are dotted with grazing cows, flocks of goats, and sheep huddled against drystone walls to hide from the midday sun —a veritable animal farm safari for the girls. Strict limits on what can be built on agricultural plots, or agrotemachia, have spared the area from dense coastal development, leaving tourist accommodation pleasantly dispersed across the landscape.

Feeding sheep in Naxos
Sheep eat bamboo leaves, it turns out.

In Plaka & Mikri Vigla, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. Mikri Vigla has the advantage of our favourite beach for family swims, while Plaka is 10 minutes closer to the Chora. Quieter than Plaka, Mikri Vigla is still complete with small supermarkets (we found Campos to be the most well-stocked in the area), bakeries (Naxos Bakery has an enticing selection of breads, cakes, ice-cream, and great coffee), a grill for pita gyros and pizzas, and traditional tavernas.

Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach.

Our villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

Naxos Chora
Naxos town. Photo by Efrem Efre

The Chora is often the obvious choice for visitors wanting the convenience of a lively town . Naxos has a lovely one, generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, it’s just a 12-minute walk south to the beginning of the island’s magnificent sweep of sandy beaches. For us, however, there are two reasons to stay elsewhere. Parking is a constant stress point if you’re hiring a car, and with Naxos’s growing popularity, the Chora can feel overwhelmed during the height of summer, with crowds that take some of the shine off its charm.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos
The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis.

— MARAGAS – pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Gently shelving and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Agios Prokopis is particularly stunning with shallower waters, but gets chaotically busy in summer for our liking. If you’re going to enjoy the waters here, we would head to the northern end by Molos cafe and taverna. It’s only a short walk from the nearby parking area, and the crowds thin noticeably, making for a far more relaxing section of the beach.

  • Sunbeds provided by Peppermint in Plaka
  • Dining at Peppermint
  • And a pool

Our preferred part lies south from Maragas – Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter. Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Peppermint has the kind of setup that can carry you through an entire day: sunbeds on the beach, a swimming pool for a break from salt water, and a spacious dining area where multiple strollers can be wheeled in endless laps until babies drift off to sleep. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the asphalt road to Mikri Vigla soon gives way to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow flurry of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos Island, Greece
Mikri Vigla’s family-friendly south beach has a mini rock-scaling attraction.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and top pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than neighbouring Plaka, only a small section of the shoreline is “organised” with sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully undeveloped. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, it’s a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Eye of Naxos
Easy fun idea? Go on a treasure hunt for the Eye of Naxos

Do your kids enjoy a treasure hunt? Look for the Eye of Naxos as you comb the island’s sandy shores. These smooth, polished opercula of sea snails are symbols of good luck and often set into jewellery. We finally found our first, and then two more, at the small swimming bay of Mikri Vigla. 

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos
The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, once the capital and commercial heart of Naxos, is a delightful place to browse for locally crafted treasures. Its compact knot of picturesque lanes, lined with elegant neoclassical villas, hides an eclectic collection of galleries and artisan workshops. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

Chalki village in Naxos, Greece
Charming Chalki, and a shopping highlight – Fish and Olive art gallery.

Just beyond Chalki, stop by Libertas Manolis’ pottery shop for handcrafted ceramics by a fourth-generation family of potters originally from Sifnos, Greece’s famed pottery island. Our girls delighted in water-filled whistling birds—a Montessori-friendly keepsake that pipes out a surprisingly lifelike birdsong—while ceramic pomegranates, a Greek symbol of good fortune and prosperity, make elegant artisan souvenirs to take home.

Libertas Manolis Pottery Shop
Pottery class in Damalas, Naxos

Manolis also offers pottery workshops (send a whatsapp message to +30 698 599 5451 to arrange) for children and adults. For younger participants (around nine or ten years old), an introductory experience lasting 30 minutes should suffice. As he candidly explains, it’s more about letting children discover the basics of the craft, with much of the shaping still guided by himself.

— f i l o t i —

Spread across the verdant slopes beneath Mount Zeus, Filoti—once the island’s commercial heart—is the largest village on Naxos. Life centres around the leafy square of Gefyra, where cafés spill out beneath towering plane trees. Once tranquil, the main road skirting the square has now become a busy bottleneck of traffic in the height of summer.

Filoti village cafe, Naxos
A café in Filoti village center.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Beyond Filoti lies Apeiranthos, a striking mountain village hewn from the marble that surrounds it. Perched 600 metres above sea level on the slopes of Mount Fanari, its stone-paved lanes weave between centuries-old houses, where cafés and tavernas pepper every corner. Many open onto terraces with sweeping views across Naxos’s rugged interior—the perfect setting to linger over coffee, crêpes or a leisurely lunch.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece
Apeiranthos mountain village strolls.

Our recent visit made it clear just how much tourism has grown in Naxos over the past two years. Once a sleepy village, Apeiranthos now bustles with visitors. By 2:30 p.m., almost every taverna along its marble streets was full, with a queue of hungry diners waiting for a table.

In search of respite, we ducked down a flight of stone steps to the hidden courtyard of O Lefteris. Tucked away from the crowds beneath the lacework of light cast by a spreading walnut tree, this traditional taverna offered a welcome pocket of calm. The food delivered, but the painfully slow service tested the patience of many a table around us—perhaps an inevitable side effect of the village’s newfound popularity.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages are one of the joys summer days. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands sentinel at one end – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Old town of Naxos
Old town walks.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. The reward? Homemade ice-cream from Aktion on the main waterfront, or profiteroles from Chou Chouro If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind if you’re going to navigate the backstreets of the main town.

Chou Chorou Profiteroles, Naxos Town
Assemble your own profiterole at Chou Chorou in the heart of town.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece
Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table.

At the same time, dining in the thick of town can feel confined for young wanderers. If you prefer settings nestled in nature, where the kids can scamper within sight while you nurse an ouzo, we’ve rounded up some special finds here.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and hottest months) I try to avoid as far as possible.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. If you’re flying in from Europe, you can also use the international airports at Mykonos or Santorini as a point of arrival instead of Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:


  • Getting There:
    • Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
    • Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
  • Car Rental:  Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
  • Eat:
    • Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
    • Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
    • Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
    • Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
    • Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
  • Drink:
    • Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
    • 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
  • Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
  • Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment
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Cyclades

Milos with Kids: Where Little Adventures Meet Otherworldly Beauty

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020
written by Lindsay
Sarakiniko beach Milos

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.


🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids
The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. On Milos, however, such stays are surprisingly scarce. The island’s dramatic volcanic coastline leaves relatively few broad, easily accessible beaches, while its thankfully restrained development has kept much of the shoreline free from large-scale accommodation.

Our preferred compromise is to base ourselves in Pollonia, whose gentle village beach is ideal for young children. Next comes hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), where beautiful accommodation is paired with easy access to the island’s highlights, followed by Adamantas, the main port, with Papikinou Beach just a few minutes away.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours. 

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capitalwhere life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island's highest hill.
Plaka village with its labyrinth of alleys is located on the island’s highest hill.
Palaios in Plaka village, Milos,
Palaios — Settle in for slow coffee and homemade sweets in the heart of Plaka.

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for coffee, Stasi for reliably good pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef led OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down. 

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos
The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece
The iridescent waters of Paleochori.

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece
The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting
Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos
Minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.
— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave. 

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease. 

Astakas Klima at Klima Bay, Milos

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls. 

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm. 

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials.. 

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos
Sirocco’s sand kitchen.
— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

Kipos Restaurant in Milos

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment
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