Destinations

Greece has many well-kept secrets. How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions. 

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Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered. 

Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took top priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.

Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens. And within the folds of its four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built by the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with priceless collections. Not just archaeological, but modern art exhibits that once included Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup. And of course, there’s food. Local produce takes centre stage with the island’s bounty of agricultural produce. On Andros, your humble taverna might surprise you with a Greek salad topped with a creamy dollop of homemade feta whipped from the milk of goats and cows grazing on fertile meadows nearby.

With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was just enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip:

WHERE TO STAY

While Andros is large, where to stay is relatively straightforward depending on your interests. For swimming on repeat, the coastal stretch from Agios Petros to Batsi is scalloped by family-friendly beach coves with accommodation options located directly behind. If inland mountain and village adventures has greater appeal for you, the main town (Chora) in the east is well-placed. And if you’re divided between the two, lovely seaside Batsi is close to the island’s covetable child-friendly beaches, while shaving off 10 minutes from the otherwise 50-minute journey east from Agios Petros. Alternatively, divide your stay and time between both coasts. 

— AGIOS PETROS —

On the island’s honeyed western coast, a scattering of apartments have sprouted behind the clutch of beach shacks on lazy Agios Petros. Conveniently situated, key provisions like a bakery (a very good one), a mid-sized supermarket, even a general supplies store (with a great section of arts and craft supplies for kids), and an excellent pizza parlour make this an attractive, low-key option for families. 

— BATSI —

Batsi is enchanting. A harbourside village without the portside-touristy ugliness of many, this cutest of coves has an attractive assortment of café, tavernas and useful amenities (pharmacies and mini-marts) encircling its bay. There’s also especially good ice-cream to be savoured at Yo N Ice after easy splashes at the not-bad resident beach.

— CHORA (MAIN TOWN) —

Where neoclassical mansions tumble down a gentle hillslope onto a spit of land jutting out into the sea, cinematic Chora is a beautiful jumble of cafés, tavernas, child-friendly squares, and museums. From Plateía Girokomeíou (the large square by the public carpark near the outdoor cinema), a central stone-paved street leads you to its end, anchored by a commanding bronze statue of “the unknown sailor” overlooking the remains of a small Venetian castle.  Wide, pedestrian-only, and smooth enough for strollers, pit stops for coffee, mezze, and ice-cream give tired little legs a chance for a break. The Museum of Contemporary Art is a highlight, with an impressive line-up of summer programmes for kids and teens that might even be something to plan your dates around. The centre of island life and a cultural hub, Chora is also a convenient base for exploring 4-million-year-old Foros cave, Pythara waterfalls in Apika, and other villages: aristocratic Lamrya, Menites with its lion-headed fountains, and seaside Korthi.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES 

Andros’ iconic beaches (like the island pinup Tis Grias To Pidima) that intrigue with wild and dramatic beauty are unfortunately hard to reach with small feet in company. At the same time, there’s no shortage of dreamy swims you don’t have to earn on the island. Accessible, shallow, and organised with sunbeds and parasols, here are our three favourite tot-friendly splashing grounds with parking located directly right behind.

— GOLDEN SAND —

With far-reaching shallow waters to embolden any water-weary 2-year old, this is our top choice for the best child-friendly swimming. There’s only one bar to be found on the small arc of soft golden sand, and while its service at the time is nothing to rave about (to put generously), we thoroughly enjoyed its waters.

— AGIOS PETROS —

A lengthy neighbouring stretch of pristine coast, the waters here are similarly pretty. Although sand speckled with bits of rock makes it slightly less comfortable if anyone wanted to roll around on the shore. Beach-shack type bars separated by makeshift bamboo dividers give it a hippie-chic appeal. Kaliva manages to layer on relaxed elegance with draped curtains, and is where we settle down. Perhaps it’s the friendly service, the sleepy sunset, or very decent tipples, but all is infectiously relaxing.

— KYPRI —

With a main draw being watersports, we weren’t sure if there was much for little D in Kypri. Until a 4-year old boy coaxing a tiny surfboard along the shoreline floated across our sunbed. Inspired, she wanted to do the same. Vasiliki from the professional crew at Wesurfin had a free slot for us. In her special way with kids, she guided D out on a mini windsurf and showed her some basics as they ventured far beyond her usual paddling grounds. Also a restaurant and beach bar, Wesurfin is as serious about their sport as their food (bistro favourites with a luxe spin). Think burgers cooked to medium-well juicy perfection with sweet potato fries, pork tenderloin, and reliable pasta options for kids. Alternatively, Flivo next door is a relaxed, child-friendly hangout (complete with baby changing tables and a playground behind) that can also mix a good vodka tonic. 

If you’ve come just for swimming, however, the beach here has a plane of rocky seabed, and slightly murky waters stirred by waves.

OFF-BEACH 

Wind through Andros’ windswept ribbon of streets and an Alice in Wonderland fill of adventures await. If, like us, you revel in countryside encounters for the nature-naive like sheep and goat sightings, picking figs on a gentle hike to a waterfall, or collecting acorns on the walk back from a cave, you will love Andros as much as we did.

— FOROS CAVE —

Would being engulfed by Gaudi-esque sculptures in cold, musty darkness be a nightmarish experience girls? As our uphill walk to the cave grew from 5 to 15 minutes, so did my concern. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be our 4-year-old’s most (positively) memorable experience that summer.

Lead by Google maps, we parked in a dent on the roadside opposite a sign that read “350 meters on foot to Foros cave”. This didn’t sound too intimidating. But the thing to know is that a lot of that walk is uphill. Part of a hiking route, the stoned-paved path is nonetheless a scenic one. Mostly unshaded, bring hats. 

At the top, a lone cave guide awaits with a smile like a pitstop in a bizarre fantasy adventure. She takes groups in one at a time. If others arrive, there’s a waiting area tucked into the hillside, complete with (very clean) toilets and a water fountain for refilling water bottles. To my sweaty post-trek delight, our guide whipped out hair nets to place beneath our hard hats as we geared up for the journey. The girls were happy to don their own dinosaur versions, and even happier to be handed torch lights for the descent into darkness.

The steep and narrow path down is tricky if you have children to mind, but we managed with rails to guide us along. And while much of what was said on the tour was beyond her, little D enjoyed the experience enough to enthusiastically want to return.

— PYTHARA WATERFALLS —

Admittedly short of spectacular, I attempted this mainly for the experience of finding some waterfall to explore. The walk is 20 minutes long, but easy. It’s not something I’d suggest if you’re tight on time (especially if you’ve got the cave and chora already in a day’s itinerary, as we did). But if you have an afternoon to spare, little ones will find joy in frog and tadpole hunting, dragonfly spotting, and skipping over water pools from boulder to boulder.

Unintuitively, you park at the sign to Pythara waterfalls that seems to lead to nowhere. It’s located right by a small house where a side alleyway will take you to a tree-lined path that gradually fills with the sounds of water. 

— 3MELISSES ORGANIC APIARY —

An apiary tour had been on my mind since D started asking about the pastel-coloured boxes she frequently spotted in honey-producing Evia where we live. But finding none there, some combination of words in Google search led us to 3Melisses in Andros. While it’s not part of the usual experience they offer, Katerina and Lefteris warmly welcomed us to their off-grid mountainside laboratory. Between bites of cheese, spoonfuls of a spectrum of honey types, and playing with Lefki, the family dog, we went from observation hive to processing facility, gaining an insightful glimpse into the magic of honey production. 

— CHORA —

It’s amazing how a simple square can elicit so much pleasure for children. As we walk up to Chora’s largest by the unexpected retirement home, the girls take off running. Once you’ve coaxed them out from the crazed circuit, take the stone walkway to the smaller square where cafés line-up offering food and refreshment along the pedestrian-only pathway. 

In most Greek island Choras, we wouldn’t suggest strollers or dining in typically tight alleyways with kids. But Andros’ Chora has wider-than-usual streets uninterrupted by too many stairs. Mod-chic Endochora with fancy cocktails is celebrated for a novel take on local cuisine. Or for a quick crepe stop with tired kids, try Las Strada.

DELICIOUS DINING WITH KIDS 

From farmhouse and seaside dining to our vote for the best ice-cream in the Cyclades, these are the gems serving standout food in settings that indulge children equally.

— KOSSIS FARM —

When yiayia (grandma) says papu (grandpa, who stayed behind this trip) would love this meat place, you understand that it is something special. Truly sumptuous, we decimated 500 grams of lamb chops quite easily while the kids devoured their bifteki (burgers without the buns). But Kossis is more than just a seriously good tavern. Ducks, fowl, cows, ponies, and even deer roam its grounds to make this a family attraction as much as a dining destination. And if that’s not joy enough for parents, its large clean toilets come complete with a baby changing table. 

— TO STEKI —

Another tavern set in a family-friendly patch of land on the way to Foki beach, To Steki has a large menu of traditionally-loved fare. Although admittedly, the real highlight here is being able to dine with a view of the kids on swings, slides, and in the company of a resident pony.

— MASTELLO —

After one-too-many classic Greek meals, Mastello was a welcome respite of modern, gastronomic heaven. Our purist slant initially cast a shade of skepticism on dishes like the “tarama trilogy” (a traditional fish roe spread) presented in three perfect rounds, but the creative spin on classic Greek cuisine was faultlessly executed. Don’t miss the Amberjack with celery and leek puree. And the buttery crayfish orzo with exquisite depth of flavour. If you’re with kids, consider reserving the tables on its beachside set-up.

— YO N ICE —

It’s not easy to make gelato that balances guilt-free sugar levels with indulgent pleasure, but Yo N Ice does just that. What’s even better? Having it stuffed in warm Tsoureki (a sweet bread) and spread over with hazelnut praline.

GETTING THERE

While it doesn’t have an airport, the ferry to Andros is a good alternative to air travel. Departing from quieter Rafina port (20 minutes from Athens International Airport), this is a much less chaotic experience than journeys from Pireaus. Because of its proximity to the mainland, the boats travelling there are not the superfast vessels with airline seating, but larger superships with cafe-style seating, a shop, and ample space to roam. If a flexible schedule allows you to choose brands, pick Golden Star over Superjets. Better maintained, cleaner, and more generous with space, it’s always been a better ride for us.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main summer tourist season runs from June to September. We usually aim for June and September to avoid the intensity of the heat (and possible heat waves) in July and August. After September, the island starts emptying out to leave behind a clutch of residents you can count in the thousands.

If you’re visiting for other reasons than the beach, Spring (April and May) is a beautiful time on Andros, with wildflowers colouring verdant valley landscapes, and herbs that scent the air. Ferries to Andros operate year-round.

Dainty, delicious, and dazzling, Sifnos is an unassuming delight with a hint of posh. In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays. 

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If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its addictive village charm.

But Sifnos measures a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it as impressive as some reviews suggest? 

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a slow rhythm of island life even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough. 

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Blanketed in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with small pensions, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up a great cocktail). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

We stayed on the far left end, the beach just steps from our patio. A few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, we took a bleary-eyed walk to Palmira for a wake-up brew. To Steki a few doors down will deliver a traditional, hearty lunch that is exemplary of Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 nearby, you might find yourself having dinner on a communal high-standing table with Tom Hanks a few stools down . Plate after plate, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

The mini market next to Omega3 took care of most of our practical needs – freshly baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit to snack on, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb. 

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free, bounded by towering mountains on each side, and disturbed by a portside buzz reverberating from the main road that runs through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne sands and aquamarine waters of Koufonissia and Naxos, the island’s muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. And while small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts saunter along with fitted shirts and cropped pants. It’s a refined scene of understated glamour.

As with most Greek mountain villages with many steps to wrestle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are also the best time to visit to avoid the summer heat (most shops and cafes close anyways from around 2pm to 6pm). In Greece, we find that long, late naps for the kids work better to keep up with village children dashing around squares and playgrounds that spring to life on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Drive through its terraced mountainous terrain and you will see how it has smartly cultivated its fertile lands to fill the handmade kleftiko pots that arrive on your taverna table. It’s also home to Greece’s first celebrity chef. Could a bad meal not be had in this culinary capital? And how sublime is the best, really? 

Beyond its embellished reputation and romantic write-ups of sage and thyme scented air, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and exceptional restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands. So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Where we were initiated into the island’s sacred recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful was Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a playground of sandy shores lies just below.

— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a good lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos, the ferry boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can first fly into Milos (a 40-minute ride away on a high-speed ferry) for the perfect island pairing. More island-pairing itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, you might be in for a surprise if you go a little too early in Spring (when businesses start to open), or too late in Autumn (when the island empties out). The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.