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Destinations

Why (and Why Not) Lefkada: Are Its Famous Beaches Really Family-Friendly?

by Lindsay Aug 26, 2022

written by Lindsay

Lefkada’s draw is exceptional beach beauty. But is it for everyone?

Fringed by scores of spectacular beaches, Lefkada possesses such a concentration of coastal beauty that it scarcely seems possible. Also known as Lefkas—from the Greek word for “white”—the island is famed for chalk-white cliffs that plunge into brilliant cobalt water. Reached by steep descents along timber steps and rope-lined paths, these dramatic shores reward the effort with some of Greece’s most breathtaking coastal scenery.

The island’s most dramatic beaches are undeniably alluring, but they rarely come easily. Reaching them often means tackling long flights of steps, steep footpaths and uneven terrain—no small feat with a baby on one hip, a toddler clutching your other hand, and a backpack laden with water, fruit and beach gear.

For that reason, many families gravitate towards the gentler eastern shoreline, where flatter beaches, shallow entries and sheltered waters make for easier days by the sea. It’s the practical choice, but also means missing the spectacular beaches that make Lefkada unlike anywhere else in Greece.

*Thrilling Egremni is hard to leave, in many ways . Getting there involves a 1 km hike and a 400-stair descent.*

And what of its off-beach draws? Having just come from the Cyclades, I pined after graphic villages to roam after long afternoons on the beach. Agios Nikitas, Lefkada’s prettiest, is a singlea single pedestrian lane that can feel overwhelmed in summer. Its mountainous hinterland village scene? Slightly over sleepy. And the capital? Most of its old town was lost to successive earthquakes in 1948 and 1953. Left to re-build, the result is an anarchic cross between a Brazilian backstreet and a neon-lit soi in Bangkok (the Thai bit is particularly accentuated around the waterfront corner).

For me, Lefkada is not an island for enchanting villages. Lefkada is for beach lovers. If you’re the type to cross continents in search of sublime shores, this is the Greek island for you, with older children in your company.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With young kids and many mini market trips to make, it always easier to live close to a village. Consider these two:

— AGIOS NIKITAS —

Easily Lefkada’s prettiest village, Agios Nikitas unfolds along a single stone-paved pedestrian street lined with apartment rentals, tavernas and small boutiques before opening onto a sheltered cove of sparkling, child-friendly water. If you can secure accommodation by the sea, you’ll have the priceless advantage of reaching the beach before the day-trippers arrive.

That convenience comes with a trade-off. As one of Lefkada’s most popular destinations, Agios Nikitas can become busy throughout the day. We’d instead look for accommodation on the village’s quieter fringes—or, better still, higher up the hillside above dreamy Milos Beach, where a handful of villas enjoy direct access to one of the island’s most beautiful stretches of sand.

At the end of Agios Nikita’s main walkway, you will find the beach.
Protected, calm, and child-friendly, but also crowded. The water taxis to Milos beach dock here.

— NIKIANA —

Skip Nidri. Nikiana’s quaint waterfront is less busy, relaxed, complete with mini-marts and a clutch of cafes, tavernas, and the stylish new NV beach bar, in addition to more swimming bays nearby.

THE BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY BEACHES

You don’t have to miss out on all of the stunning, but sometimes daunting, stretches of Lefkada’s dreamiest west side beaches, even if you’ve come with tots in tow. While Egremni is probably not a good idea, and getting to Milos comes with a little more adventure (take a boat taxi departing from Agios Nikitas beach to avoid the 20-minute trek), we’ve included hospitable choices that are just as impressive.

Especially if you’re visiting the exposed west, check a wind app for the direction and strength of the wind for the beach you’re considering on the day of your trip. Too wavy, and you’re better off heading to a calmer bay (e.g. Agios Nikitas) or a sheltered spot on the eastern coast.

— PEFKOULIA —

Delightfully unchallenging, yet thoroughly impressive, this long sweep of part-organised, part-free beach delivers on the Lefkadian promise of bluer-than-blue waters and white pebbly shores. Backed by a lush green mountainscape, the scent of pine surrounds as you sunbathe on its shores. It’s thoroughly more relaxed here than on packed-out Kathisma with its mega beach clubs. Also close to Agios Nikitas, you can drop-in for an evening walk later. Deck pool bar and restaurant supplies drinks and snack type foods, but also has a full menu of traditional favourites like pastitsio and moussaka.

— PORTO KATSIKI —

With a name that translates to “goat port”, I was concerned about taking the kids down a beach only goats could previously reach. Now, there are 100 stairs. And it turns out that 100 stairs is hardly tiring at all, even for the semi-fit. While the beach has no amenities, there are three shops at the entryway with fast food, refreshment, beach mats, floats, umbrellas and other last-minute purchases you might need. Arrive before 1pm and you might be able to steal some shade under the shadow of towering rocks that crown the beach. After that, the shaded portion quickly recedes. While the beach will be filled with a rainbow of umbrellas covering the entirety of its shore in the peak of summer, somehow, the crowds get lost in the presence of such majestic beauty, and nature envelopes all. Parking is a challenge, but not overly difficult. The easiest option is to pay for spot (€10) right by the entrance. Otherwise, free parking is available along the road father up the hill.

Porto Katsiki’s towering rocks provide natural shade until about 1 pm.
100 stairs down …

— DESIMI —

Desimi is different. In the blue-green kind of way more reminiscent of beaches in the Sporades. Flanked by lush green forests, there’s a handful of tavernas and cafes supplying ice creams and coffees. An “unorganised” beach without umbrellas and parasols, you will have to find shade under the trees that back its shores. The highlight for us – Dessimi boats rent out sea pedal boats for €20 an hour. Explore sea caves and peddle out to secret spits of beach you can dock at for a splash in your private bit of sea.

Turquoise beauty in Desimi.
Exploring.
Found a near private beach!

WHERE TO DINE WITH KIDS

Where can you dine deliciously while your toddler runs a riot through grassy lawns and pebbly shores?

— OASIS TAVERN (Athani) —

Sprawling over an elevated green studded with towering pine trees above, this tavern’s location above the lookout point for Egremni is hard to miss. Such a precious spot also happens to go hand-in-hand with excellent food. Succulent lamb, a stand-out moussaka, beef stifado, and chicken ala crème crowd-pleaser (with fries) devoured by the girls. As you wait for your meal, a toy-filled sand pit draws them happily away to leave you in a moment of Zen. There’s more – swings and a slide peek out from the foilafe of a mini playground steps below. It’s the kind of set-up that encourages families to linger.

The most family-friendly tavern we ever did see.

— ELENI TAVERNA (Karya) —

A small family-run taverna in a quiet corner under Karya square’s plane trees, a menu of familiar favourites with some secret recipe type execution continue to impress even the most restaurant-tired taste buds. There’s ample space for the kids to have a dash around between empty tables if you go early (i.e. not Greek timing) – we sat next to a large tree which they circled for 20 minutes, beam balancing on the short wall enclosing it. Head to the Folklore Museum in advance if you’re looking for more ways to spend sunny afternoons off-beach.

Under the plane trees of Karya village square is Eleni Taverna – one of the best eats on the island.
Take a stroll through the village after.

— TAVERNA PANTAZIS (Nikiana) —

On the east coast of Lefkada and its child friendly coves, Pantazis found an idyllic seafront spot where you can dine with pebbles between your toes. They get busy after 8pm, so call in ahead to reserve a table on the beach. Seafood is the highlight, although we were happier with our meat dishes – pork in wine sauce, and a lamb stamna. Take a leisurely stroll around the mini marina after.

Taverna Pantazis in Nikiana, Lefkada — *Waterfront dining at Pantazis if you’re on the east coast*

GETTING THERE

Lefkada is one of three islands in Greece you can drive to by car (the other two being Evia and Elafonissos). From Athens, a scenic coastal highway dotted with points of interest (like Corinth) will take you there in four hours. Alternatively, an airport in Preveza is located 30 minutes from Lefkada. Planning a Greek island hopping itinerary? Lefkada has frequent ferry connections with Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Ithaca and Paxi.

Nidri village in Lefkada — *The port at Nidri has ferry boats to Fiskardo in Kefalonia.*

WHEN TO VISIT

Like most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from May to October. July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive months to travel in, so we try to avoid these months in particular. By winter, life on Lefkada dwindles down to its population of 22,000 locals. The main town of Lefkas stays open, along with some hotels and tavernas, while island adventures focus more on forest hikes and mountain village wanders.

Aug 26, 2022 0 comment

Ionian Islands

Kefalonia: The All-Rounded Greek Island For Kids of All Ages

by Lindsay Aug 13, 2022

written by Lindsay

With history, culture and adventure for everyone, cinematic Kefalonia is a low-key island offering next-level experiences.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🐝 🐢 🚙 ⛰️ 🏛️

Kefalonia is the Ionian girl with everything. Perfectly manicured, rolling hills of pine, palm, and cypress peppered with terracotta-roofed estates recall the charm of the Tuscan countryside. Naturally gifted, coastal jewels, striking caves, and lofty Mount Ainos count among its enviable physical assets. It even has historical and cultural depth. Paleolithic tools suggest habitation from the Old Stone Age, while Iron Age cemeteries indicate it was a flourishing Mycenaean center. There are also Archaean treasures, a scattering of Roman baths and villas, and more recent vestiges from Venetian and English rule.

*Iconnic Melissani is best visited at noon when sunlight directly falls through its cavity*

In spite of its wealth of attractions and fleeting moment of Hollywood fame, Kefalonia remains relatively under-the-radar. And while it is a seasoned tourist destination, it is not yet marred by extensive resort chains aside from those in southerly Skala. Instead, smart boutique villas sit alongside elegant massage spas and organic farm-to-fork tavernas. It also rarely feels crowded, unless you’re in hotspots like Platis Gialos beach, queuing to see Melissani, or roaming Fiskardo when a boat arrival has disgorged its passengers.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

We spent hours pouring over where to stay to avoid insufferable travel times in the car with kids. Up north with the island’s dramatic pin-up sights (including Myrtos beach and Assos village)? The western Paliki peninsula? Or its southwestern coast (starting from Lourdata towards the capital of Argostoli) with its sandy and child-friendly bays?

We settled for the last option in the little-known village of Vlahata. But ended up having morning coffees in neighbouring Lourdata so often we’d seek accommodation there the next time around.

*Lourdata beach on calm mornings shows off surreal shades of mystic grey sand and aquamarine*

Lourdata is a seaside village with a sprinkling of boutique hotels, tavernas, and cafes. There’s significant benefit in staying steps from the sea, especially when a scorching summer rules out swimming from 11am to 4pm. And the beach at Lourdata is a lovely one. Particularly in the mornings when calm, aquamarine waters shimmer as they dapple gently over mystic grey sand.

There are many other options, of course. And while we enjoy spontaneity in our escapes, this is an island that benefits from thorough research and a planned itinerary before deciding on where to stay.

THE BEACH SCENE

Kefalonia’s coastal attractions are varied and impressive. More enticing is the fact that the island’s famous beaches with dramatic scenery are not out-of-reach for families. Myrtos is easily accessible by car, and organised with sunbeds and parasols. Yet, exposed to strong winds (always a good thing to check before beach visits), feisty waves and an abruptly dropping seabed can hamper young swimmers. Petani has a similar set-up, but is better organised with two tavernas, a cafe-bar, and watersports to offer.

The sandy southwest coast is so crammed with child-friendly coves, you might need more than a week to exhaust the options. The farther south you head (towards Mounda and Kamina), the higher your chances of finding nesting grounds where caretta turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. Boxed off to protect the endangered species, they only hatch at night, but it’s an exciting sight, nonetheless.

*Turtle nesting spots (like this on Ai Helis beach) are marked out and protected by conservation groups like Wildlife Sense*

And then there’s Xi – a strange looking place with orange sand backed by white clay cliffs. Beach-goers in search of a spa treat slather themselves in its therapeutic clay soil. It also has a family draw, with shallow shores and an organised (i.e. with sunbeds and parasols) section. We round up our family favourites here.

OFF-BEACH ATTRACTIONS

Beyond the beach, Kefalonia’s list of attractions reads like a veritable theme park offering: In Sami are the famed caves of Melissani and Dogarati you can donkey trek to. Take a jeep safari adventure or hike up to Mount Ainos’ summit for a view from the Ionian’s highest peak. Dias in the southwest conducts apiary tours where you can don a suit and hold a frame of live bees. Got binoculars? Go bird spotting in the Livadi marshlands. Not to forget castle explorations at the Venetian fortification in Assos and Saint George’s castle outside Argostoli. There’s even zooland – a mini zoo and Odyssey-themed park in one.

The waterfront promenade at Argostoli.

Thankfully for us, small children get excited about simple things. Like fishermen reeling in their catch from the world’s largest oversea stone bridge in Argostoli. Or watching little crabs scuttle up its bridge walls. As we strolled the bridge, my eyes fixated on the waters below in search of carettas wandering the lagoon. A determined mother, in spite of missing the early morning sweet spot when they gather for treats from fishing boats. And I did spot one, for a precious three seconds. It disappeared long before the kids caught onto why I waved fanatically at them from a short distance.

Flattened by the Ionian earthquake in 1953, Argostoli was rebuilt as a large, modern town. Pedestrian-only Lithostroto one parallel behind the waterfront promenade is where the main shopping happens. Walk its length northwards and you will reach Platia Vallianou – a large square bordered by cafés where you can enjoy a latte while the kids have a run.

*Fiskardo is best explored in the evening, when the summer sun is less intense and the boat arrivals have ceased*

For an experience of traditional Greek village beauty, Fiskardo and Assos up north (an hour’s drive from Argostoli) are the most attractive on the island. Full of pastel prettiness and Venetian charm, bustling Fiskardo is the buzzier and more fashionable of the two. A historic harbour that escaped the earthquake of 1953, tourist-geared updates have tinged it with cosmopolitan chic. And while Assos was not so lucky, French benefactors, in love with the village, helped with restoration efforts after the earthquake. Take a hot hike up to the castle, then cool off in the village beach cove after.

DINING WITH KIDS

The right environment is nearly as important as what we are eating when we dine out with kids. Give us wide-open spaces, softly-padded grounds, a failsafe pasta menu entry, and clean toilets, and dining happiness is made. Here are our top such finds on the island.

— DROSOS (PORTO ATHERAS BEACH) —

Set in secluded Porto Atheras, this humble taverna with the beach to itself is all we love about Greek island dining. Honest, simple, friendly (without being overly friendly), and where the full, unadulterated flavours of basic ingredients are artfully drawn out. And then there’s the garden outside. So spacious, it even inspired an American dad to throw a yoga rug on the grass for an acrobatic show performed alongside his two children, while members of their larger group circled around. Everyone feels free here.

— PSARAGATOS (AMMES BEACH) —

Perched solitarily above Ammes beach, I was drawn to Psaragatos and its envious vistas on sighting it as we drove by. Surrounded by lush gardens adorned with white pottery, parasol-shaded tables sit poised for sunset. While seafood is the highlight, the one meat dish we kept stealing spoons from was the Bekri Meze, where succulent chunks of flavoursome pork tenderloin heaps over a mound of rice.

— ALEXANDROS (DIVARATA, CLOSE TO MYRTOS) —

If you’re exploring the island’s northern highlights, Alexandros might be off a main road, but feels far removed from its busyness on its valley-facing balcony. Relaxed, ambient and abundantly spacious, a menu of traditional favourites presents heart-warming fare at reasonable prices.

HOW TO GET THERE

With an international airport outside Argostoli, Kefalonia is within easy reach. If you’re coming from the mainland, ferry ports connect the island to Patras and Kyllini. Island hopping? There are also direct crossings to Lefkada, Ithaca, Zakynthos, Corfu, and other Ionian islands.

Aug 13, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

The Best Family-Friendly Beaches in Kefalonia

by Lindsay Aug 11, 2022

written by Lindsay

Boasting its own share of insta-famous pinup beaches, Kefalonia is blessed. They’re not entirely out of reach for families either. With 254 kilometers of coastline, to where should you head after heroically packing the kids and their floats into the car? In our search for shores both fabulous and friendly, we share our favourite bits of sand and sea when in the company of first swimmers.

PETANI

Best for: drama, waves included.

If you’re pining for Myrtos-like spectacle, but hoping for something a little friendlier (the waves at Myrtos can be fiesty), Petani is perfect. To start with, there’s the “sand” – of a special grain-size that is more of a cross between pebbles and sand. It’s the best type of sand, we think – neither painful for feet, nor wanting to stick all over wet bodies. Then, there’s the boat rental shack where we rented shaded pedal boats for €25 an hour – a welcome opportunity to escape the searing sun while exploring rockscapes between dips in secret corners. The only downside of Petani for little ones is that the seabed gets deep a little too quickly, and the water, which can be wavy. Check the wind direction on an app like Windy for calm days. Otherwise, the sheltered beach at Port Atheras is a 25-minute drive away as a backup destination. “Organised” (as they say in Greece) with sunbeds and parasols, Petani comes complete with two taverns on Petani and a bar. It’s also easy for little legs to get to, with parking located directly behind.

PORT ATHERAS

Best for: when food is as much a priority as swimming. Or on especially wavy Petani days.

Shallow, sheltered, calm, and perfect for tots, this is a quintessential family beach. Rainbow unicorns drift in the sparkling shallow, while a scattering of families picnic under their umbrellas. Unorganised, you will have to make your own arrangements for shade, or take a dip after a late lunch at Drosos seafood tavern just behind. It’s the best part of the beach, serving the most delicious meal we had on the trip. Gialos taverna higher up overlooking the bay is an alternative dining option.

MEGALI AMMOS

Best for: late afternoons and sunsets, and as an alternative to Platis Gialos.

A quiet stretch of golden sand with clear and shallow waters, surfer-cool Tortuga bar-shack stands nonchalantly at its entrance to greet arrivals. Draped with curtains that add a cozy hint of boho softness to its white and black set, they mix a good welcome cocktail. A small sprawl of sunbeds huddle around the bar, but the beach is mostly free. Next to the airport, watch planes land and take off periodically. Parking is not difficult to find along the road right behind.

PLATIS GIALOS

Best for: clear blue waters and the best sandy shore, but only in low season.

Popular Platis Gialos appeals with the magnetic draw of fine white sand and clear blue waters. But it’s a little too popular. The consolation – resident bar Costa Costa is surprising tasteful and well-organised with cleaner-than-usual toilets and showers. Generously spaced out sunbeds tuck under straw umbrellas, and upbeat, but still relaxing music plays gently in the background. At € 25 per pair (prices vary depending on the time of the season), it’s more expensive than on most other parts of the island. There’s a small furniture free zone for your own set-up if you’ve come equipped. Parking is happily shaded under a little forest of pine-trees on the uphill climb from the beach.

AGIOS THOMAS

Best for: a sparkling swim in a idyllic cove (or just coffee by the sea)

A tiny arc of pearly white sand lapped over by pristine turquoise waters, Agios Thomas is postcard-perfect. In its smallness, it’s unorganised. It does, however, have the benefits of a tavern (Galina offers a small but commendable menu) and Tratamento cafe-restaurant (more the former) overlooking its waters. A hotspot in a quiet village that gets crowded quickly, and where parking gets interesting on the narrow way down to the beach, it’s best visited in low season or early in the morning.

LOURDATA

Best for: For early morning swims and seaside accommodation

A little seaside village gaining upscale attention, Lourdata has an ethereal beauty when its waters are calm. When we visited in the late afternoon and evening as the wind picked up, it was unimpressive. But on a quiet, still morning, this is heaven. A good option if you’re looking for somewhere where the village and beach are the same thing. With tavernas and cafes backing the beach and parking right behind, it’s also especially convenient.

Aug 11, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

SIFNOS or SERIFOS? Which Island is for You?

by Lindsay Jul 12, 2022

written by Lindsay

Both 75 square kilometres in size and full of Cycladic charm, Sifnos and Serifos are separated by a 20-minute fast-ferry ride across the Aegean. Apart from their first letters, what else do they share? Outlining the differences that make them uniquely alluring, here’s how to take your pick if you only have time for one.

If you love a dreamy beach

Serifos has beaches more dazzling and diverse than Sifnos. From aquamarine Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis, to dark and wild Ganema, these waters are all you expect from Greece’s reputation for stunning shores. At the same time, its beach scene is not as developed as Sifnos, where the island’s best beaches are conveniently “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols, as they say in Greece) for travelling families. Providing amenities at your doorstep, Sifnos is the island to choose if you prioritise convenience over beach brilliance.

Aquamarine waters in Psilli Ammos Beach, Serifos
More perfect shores at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
Platis Gialos is our favourite beach in Sifnos – not as impressive, but organised with beach bars and more backing the beach

If you appreciate a raw and rugged aesthetic

While both islands are mountainous, Serifos is a stunner. Visually striking with imposing peaks and stark landforms carpeted by low and dry vegetation, its landscape has inspired some extraordinary architecture built in synchrony with its surroundings. In contrast, Sifnos’ fertile hillscapes have been extensively and carefully cultivated. Rolling terraced mountains are covered with olive and almond trees for a softer, greener countryside.

Serifos’ Chora dipped in peachy sunset hues. Image credit: Despina Galani.
Sunset drives on the way to Serifos’ Chora
Views of Megalo Livadi village from the Throne of Cyclops in Serifos
It’s a little greener in Sifnos

If you love Greek villages

What Sifnos lacks in beaches, it makes up for in its villages. While Serifos has two main villages of interest (a tiny hilltop Chora and portside Livadi), Sifnos has a handful. Mountain top Apollonia is its liveliest, with bursts of bougainvillaea cascading down colourful shopfronts that lead onto blue domed churches around the corner. Quiet Artemonas has a subtly stately vibe and a special sweet store (Theodorou). And most memorably, medieval Kastro is fascinating, apart from being especially beautiful. And of course, the seaside villages of Platis Gialos, Kamares and Vathy provide many opportunities for coffees, cocktails, and souvenir shopping in between beach dips.

Sifnos has an assortment of villages to explore, all uniquely colourful and charming
Serifos’ Chora is smaller than that of Sifnos

If you like shopping

Unless you’re into souvenir magnets and such, shopping is not a thing in Serifos. Sifnos, with larger villages, includes a handful of shops that entice with curated island chic, alongside a centuries-old pottery scene. Take home exquisitely crafted tableware and traditional casserole earthenware that promise the magic touch in your next slow-cooked meal.

If you’re culturally curious

Sifnos has a greater array of archaeological sites, historical towers and dazzling churches to fill cultural appetites. Off-beach sites of interest in Serifos are spartan, and perhaps interesting mainly because of the breathtaking panoramas from their lofty vantage points.

This cliffside walk in Kastro (built on the ruins of the island’s ancient capital) leads to The Church of Seven Matyrs
The iconic Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
Cyclops Throne, one of Serifos’ main off-beach attractions, offered lovely views but was slightly lackluster in itself

If you’re into fine dining

Truth be told, Sifnos, with it’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise, did not stand out dramatically for us. Yet, it boasts modern fine dining finesse with celebrity-frequented, experimental outposts like Omega3 and Cantina. Also, being more developed, there are more options to choose from. Serifos’ islanders tended to point us to a familiar list of go-to tavernas. It did have one edge for us, however – Blue Bamboo, a contemporary Thai restaurant from Athens was a welcome palette refresher after one-too-many tomato-based meals.

Cantina is Sifnos’ most exciting culinary offer yet
Dining in Serifos is more traditional. Image credit: Cantina

If you have young children

With a more developed tourist infrastructure, Sifnos is convenient. For ultimate ease, choose a village by the beach, like Platis Gialos (our top pick), Kamares and Vathy. Livadaki in Serifos offers a similar set-up, but is otherwise the only such option for convenience on the island.

Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
Livadakia beach in Serifos, with the amenities of Livadi village nearby

Jul 12, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

Sifnos: The Gourmet Greek Island That’s Perfect for Young Families

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022

written by Lindsay

Dainty, dazzling and delicious, Sifnos is a soulful delight with a hint of posh.

In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays.

🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏛️🥾

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its unique village charm.

But the island is a thumb-smudge of a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it really as impressive as some reviews suggest?

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a languid rhythm even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine barefoot wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough.

*The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.*

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Cloaked in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with guesthouses, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up great cocktails). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

Luminescence at Platis Gialos beach
Omega3 Fish and Wine Bar – fine dining, if manage what to do with accompanying kids.
Our usual bakery stop behind the mini mart next to Omega3. Go early – a lot runs out by noon
Lost bay beach bar in Platis Gialos – all we could want in cocktails by the sea

We stayed at Miles Away, the beach just steps from our patio. Perfectly appointed and in a prime location, a few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, a bleary-eyed saunter to Palmira would get the day started with a wake-up brew. A few doors down at To Steki, we might break for a hearty lunch exemplary of traditional Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 another few doors away, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience that arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

*A modest playground by the sea at Platis Gialos*.

The mini market next to Omega3 catered to most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb.

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free . Bounded by towering mountains on each side, a portside buzz reverberates from the main road running through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

*The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares*.

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne shores and aquamarine waters of Koufonisia and Naxos, the islands’ muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. While small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts promenade with fitted shirts and cropped pants.

As with most Greek mountain villages with innumerable steps to battle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit to avoid the heat. Like the shops and cafes that close for a 2pm to 5pm siesta, it’s a good idea to follow suit with a delayed nap so the kids can keep up with village children dashing around playgrounds and squares on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, the island’s ancient capital inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Home to Greece’s first celebrity chef, there are modern dining options that rival experienced counterparts in Santorini within its terraced and smartly cultivated mountainous terrain. But beyond deconstructed meals, an embellished reputation, and romantic accounts of sage and thyme scented air, truth be told, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and very good restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands.

So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools in haute-hip hotspots?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Initiating us into the island’s revered recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful at family-run To Steki was soul-warming, Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a play area of sandy shores lies below.

*To Steki for traditional Sifnian dishes*.

— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a beautiful lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, a little too early in Spring might mean many businesses have yet to open, or too late in Autumn and they have already shut for the season. The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos the boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can also fly into Mykonos (2 hours by fast ferry) or Milos (40-minuts by fast ferry). More island hopping itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO SIFNOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing from Pireaus port.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Sifnos

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022

written by Lindsay

Where do you throw your towels down (or not) in-between sampling Sifnos‘ famous gastronomic flavours? While the island’s main draw is not stunning shores, Sifnos boasts a particular benefit for young families: an attractive set-up of shallow bays nestled within relaxed villages boasting an excellent choice of seaside tavernas and cafes – a joy for parents with little legs to herd around.

Of all the easily accessible options, we list our favourites here. Some “organised” (as they say in Greece, providing loungers and parasols), others offering natural shade, and all complete with dining options for an easy skip from sunbed, to taverna, or beach bar.

PLATIS GIALOS

Wide and sandy in the southern end of Sifnos, Platis Gialos is our pick for the island’s most attractive swimming. The left corner (as you face the beach) is free from rocky hindrances on its seabed, with glassy waters inching up to waist height after a lengthy 100 meters. While some bits are organised, it’s not smothered with sunbeds. And if you’ve left your beach toys behind, the mini market next to dining hotspot Omega3 has fishing nets, shovels, and buckets. Fringed by boutique hotels, chic cafes, smart restaurants and traditional tavernas, there’s also a small playground by the beach (next to NUS restaurant).

Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos

The seaside villages of Kamares and Vathy have a similarly convenient set-up. All organised, sheltered shorelines and shallow waters make these alternative child-friendly options. Yet, with towering mountains flanking the deep-set harbour of Kamares, and the omega-shaped bay of Vathy feeling more like swimming in a lake, we found Platis Gialos the most attractive of the three.

APOKOFTO

Touched with the charm of Chrisopogi church commanding its corner, Apokofto’s azure waters are marvelously clear. The seabed, however, is slightly steeper than in Platis Gialos, and rocky in parts. It’s wavier here than at Platis Gialos, and better with older kids in company. Unorganised, a scattering of tamarisk trees offer relief from the sun. Go early to secure a spot.

Eat, dip, eat
Exploring Chrisopigi at sunset

Tucked away behind the beach, Way Cup roaster is serious about coffee. Aside from a perfect cappuccino, it also serves cocktails, smoothies and juice. Hang out on their sun-dappled terrace, or save your drinks for the beach. For post-swim meals, there are two taverns by the sea. We dined at Chrisopigi tavern twice in our seven of stay days.

GLYFO

The three mini beach bays of Glyfo, Faros, and Fassalou sit in sequence southeast of the island. Glyfo, separated from Faros by a small village, is the most attractive in its picturesque seclusion. Without road access (park at Faros), a short trek through the village will lead to the bay. Unorganised, tamarisk trees line its shore for shade, where calm and shallow waters stretch out for about 50 meters. On the opposite end from where you enter, a short and scenic hiking path leads you the the church of Agios Charalampos, and then to Chrysopigi.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Mykonos

by Lindsay Jan 22, 2022

written by Lindsay

On an island notorious for parties, crowds, and rambunctious extravagance, where can you go to find a family-friendly share of its sparkling blue seas (and not have to splash obscene amounts of money)?

Confused by drunkenly divergent online reviews of what’s best in Mykonos, we went from coast-to-coast to find seaside sanctuaries that are as relaxed as is Mykonianly possible. It turned out that “coast-to-coast” here involved convoluted loops inland, then back out onto a bit of shore that could be just next door. So to save you from a similar hassle, our top picks are listed here in rank order. I’ve also included why some other beaches you might read about didn’t appeal to us, in case your stylistic preferences resonate with ours.

KALO LIVADI

On the island’s overcrowded southern fringe, Kalo Livadi is a literal breath of fresh air. There’s even a sweep of sunbed-free space on the right as you face the sea. For now, visitors can enjoy its turquoise waters and soft white sand in relative serenity. Wade in and the water gradually drops to (adult) waist-height after about 50 meters. Not the shallowest, but still good for child’s play.

Two beach clubs have secured covetable real estate on its shores. Unlike its namesake, nautical-themed Lohan is laid-back. Socially distant beds surround an airy canopy of sails covering the central bar. There’s easy electronica in the background, and along with whitewashed furnishings, all is soothing. The sunbeds at Lohan cost €30 a pair (cheap on Mykonos, although prices on the island seem to fluctuate with the wind). Ample free parking is located directly behind.

ELIA

Elia is perhaps more striking than Kalo Livadi, but also with more admirers. The good – one of the island’s longest beaches, you don’t feel the crowd as much as on smaller bays like the Paradise, Paraga or Ornos. A smattering of ultra-luxe hotels provide beachfront accommodation. Elegant constructions dressed in muted hues, these low-slung volumes discreetly blend into their surroundings.

Like other natural beauties before it, a recent remodel has fitted Elia with loungers from end-to-end (Book one here). There’s still some slivers of free space in between assembly blocks of sunbeds. With faint music in the background, the ambience here is easy. Sunbeds cost €50 per pair.

Before you get excited about the hidden section past the rocky headland at the edge of the carpark, it’s useful to know that this is also nudist territory.

PARADISE

Why have we included this beach with a party-hard reputation in our list? Tropicana, a club without the notorious island attitude, is actually pretty laid-back before 4 p.m.. It’s also without the pole dancers of neighbouring Super Paradise. The crowd, less determined to make a scene, is still more self-conscious than is relaxing. Selfie-taking borders on obsessive, and the occasional young siren bares her chest for a photo op with the club photographer.

Sandbags and sun loungers fill the shore, so we focus our gaze on the stunning aquamarine waters beyond. The seabed has sections of reef for feet to watch out for, which is also home to an array of marine life – bring snorkeling equipment. Sunbeds cost €35 a pair and there’s a €10 minimum spend. Parking was free as well.

AGRARI

Quieter Agrari perhaps deserves third spot over fourth with an expanse of free beach to tumble around. At its center is tranquil Agrari restaurant-bar-cafe. Wood patio-style furniture spread out under the leafy green canopy of a little forest of tamarisks.

So what’s not to love at Agrari? With mustard-yellow sand, it’s waters were just not quite the shade of piercing blue we idealise. It also has a reefier seabed. But if natural, raw and free, with some organisation (loungers, food and drink) is your priority, this is it. Free parking is located directly behind.

Agrari Beach — The golden shores of quieter and lesser-known Agrari

AGIOS SOSTIS

One of the last few beaches on Mykonos that has escaped development, northern Agios Sostis is for throwing your towels down to relish on beaches unblemished. The difference in atmosphere here is distinct – rugged and real, with a dark and wild appeal. Resident taverna KiKi’s, a local cult favourite known for mouthwatering grills, has also remained largely unchanged since the 80s. Small and nondescript, expect a one to two hour wait for a meal here. Parking is a bit of a challenge on the narrow strip of road leading down to the beach, but we’ve always managed without too much difficulty. There are no facilities here, so bring water and everything you need for a day on the beach.

AND THE OTHER BEACHES WE VISITED?

The waters of Shirley Valentine’s Agios Ioannis were not as dreamy as we envisioned (Agrari would have been a better option), with lots of rocks in the seabed. Paraga was exorbitant, although by the time we got there, we were tired of travelling and ready to spend. Prepared to splurge, we headed to Scorpios. But without a booking, nothing was available. Ornos was so crowded with people on the shore and boats out at sea, I could have been on the east coast of Singapore. And Platis Gialos felt too built-up with squeezed-together hotel blocks marring the shorefront.

Agios Ioannis Beach — *Agios Ioannis with Hippie Fish club in the background*

Still confused? Approach family travel specialists in Greece, Mamakita. We wish we did before we attempted the island ourselves.

Jan 22, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

Kifissia, Athens: A Family Oasis You’ll Want to Call Home

by Lindsay Jan 16, 2022

written by Lindsay

A retreat from the concrete sprawl of Athens and a perfect base for long family holidays in Greece, leafy green Kifissia breathes serenity, sophistication, and old world charm.

_{Last updated 2 Feb 2026}

Our home when we lived in Athens, Kifissia is a suburban oasis for young families. While the southern coastal stretch of Glyfada, Vogliameni and Voula gets all the recent attention with the rise of Ellinikon Metropolitan Park, for me, Kifissia has greater appeal. Set in lush greenery, it’s also about five degrees cooler than the city centre and south in the sweltering summer. And for long-term residents, this is where most of Greece’s best international schools congregate.

If you’re considering holidaying or working in Greece for a length of time, here are six reasons why there’s no place else like Kifisia:

1. The Village Vibe

An intimate suburb with a quietly refined vibe, Kifisia is complete. Heritage stone houses, once the summer homes of the city’s elite, stand alongside new world fashion titans from Bottega Venetta to Zara. Weaved in-between are chic cafés (atmospheric Natu next to the Goulandris Natural History Museum deserves a mention), curated kids boutiques (Kitabu spills over with a choice selection of books and toys), endless sweet shops (Da Vinci presents an eye-catching showcase of gelato), two of the city’s oldest open-air cinemas, boutique hotels (book into The Y Hotel if you’re checking the neighbourhood out – connecting rooms are available), and an eclectic restaurant selection. The convenient and covetable sit along plane tree-lined streets made for sun-dappled strolls. At its center, by a square large enough for scooting in circles, horse-drawn carriages offer rides, while a balloon man roams with a colourful cloud of mylar cartoon characters in hand.

Kifisia Center Athens — Scooting in the center of Kifisia.

Natu cafe-restaurant in Goulandris Natural History Museum — Natu’s enchanting grounds in the garden of Goulandris Natural History Museum.

2. Forest Fun

Kids love the forest. And Kifisia has two. One is at its doorstep by the train station, but is actually more of a park with a café nestled within, while the larger Syngrou estate is for serious explorers. A 97-hectare wonderland of virgin forest, a network of pathways make way for cyclists, scooters, strollers and joggers. Wander off, and you might spot a huddle of turtles hiding out in the woods. Families have picnics on lawns, and hang bunting from trees to celebrate birthdays. There are also some buildings of interest to explore – a beekeeping museum by the main entrance where the parking lot is, a gothic-styled Christian Orthodox chapel (Agios Andreas) designed by Ernst Ziller, and a greenhouse of cacti and succulents.

Kifisia park directly in front of the metro station.

3. Playground in a park

Public playgrounds have a sketchy reputation in Athens, but Mavromichali park is one of a kind. Nestled within an upscale residential neighbourhood, there’s a section for big kids, and another for little. All surrounded by beautiful garden grounds with benches for sipping on takeout coffees under a canopy of leafy green trees.

4. Location

Kifisia may not be near Pireaus, but miles more pleasant for catching a boat is the quieter port of Rafina a 35-minute drive away. Also in the area are two of Athens’ better malls – The Mall and Golden Hall (with Xplore – an impressive kids entertainment center), and Ktima Aristi, a nature-based oasis of play for children and parents alike. Attica Zoological Park is another 25-minute drive out in Spata, next to American-run MacArthurGlen outlet mall (with a sheltered outdoor playground). And an 8-minute drive from here is the Wall – a sports complex and entertainment center and home to Greece’s largest climbing wall, beach volleyball courts, go-karting, a rope course and trampolines.

5. International Schools

A host of international schools cluster around the north. British-blended options include Byron, Campion and the esteemed Saint Catherine’s educating children of the Greek elite. With a fancy compound and reputation to match, trendy American College is US-based, along with American Community Schools and Anatolia College. Non-country specific international schools include International School of Athens, Costeas-Geitonas School, Doukas, and I.M Panagiotopoulos. And where an alternate language of instruction is offered, there’s French-speaking Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix and German-speaking distribution Deutsche Schule.

Outside of the north, St. Lawrence College is located south in Koropi and the International School of Pireaus in Pireaus. Both are British-based.

6. The Organic Farmers Market

Finally, there’s the weekly farmers market (“laiki”) we love. On Kokkinara Street, the one in Kifisia is organic. Offering seasonal fruits and vegetables, dry grains, eggs, and even yoghurt and cheese, it pops up every Monday from 4 a.m. to 7:30 p.m..

Jan 16, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Milos

by Lindsay Jan 11, 2022

written by Lindsay

Tourlos beach, next to the more popular Paleochori.

_{Last updated: 29 Jul 2024}

Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.

ACHIVADOLIMNI

A 10 -minute drive from the main port, Achivadolimni’s protected waters are ideal for young children with waters that stay waist deep even 20 meters in. Calm and clear, a beguiling ombre of blue stretches towards Adamantas village opposite. Daddies prop up naked babies in armbands, toddlers splash confidently in Swim Trainers, and our girls practice snorkelling in preparation for the deeper waters of Paleochori. Sporadically, a plane flies by. A passing ferry might also stir up a series of waves, eliciting shrieks of excitement from kids as they’re rocked by the waters.

Next to the lifeguard tower, a basic bar-shack rents out straw umbrellas and sunbeds for €20 a pair. It has a wider than expected canteen-type menu: fruit juices and salads, sandwiches, burgers – enough to satiate hungry kids.

Parking is directly behind the beach.

PROVOTAS

Provotas is a perfect little bay for toddlers in tow. Subtly stunning, with sparkling waters and powdery sand, the gentle seabed stays near-flat for more than fifty meters out. On the beach, the resident hotel (Golden Milos) rents padded sun loungers and offers refreshment for €50 a new island high of pair (as of 2024). Park directly behind on the road that runs parallel to the beach. There’s a shower near the exit for a quick rinse before you return to the car.

Provotas Milos Seascape — *Powdery golden sand on Provotas and Agios Sostis are perfect for sandcastle building.*

If you’re in the area and don’t mind throwing your towel down on the beach instead, check out neigbouring Agios Sostis. Harder to reach, follow a short dirt road before arriving at the start of a 60-step stairway down. The bay below also harbours shallow, crystal clear waters, and our favourite for a swim in perfect tranquility. There is no shade or amenities here, however, so arrive equipped and prepared.

Agios Sostis beach in Milos — *The stairs down to Agios Sostis is pictured on the right of the beach when you’re viewing it from the water.*

These southern beaches are the ones to head to for the calmest seas when the north “meltimi” winds blow fiercely .

PALEOCHORI & TOURLOS

The marvel of Milos’ volcanic past can be felt at Paleochori, creating a kaleidoscope of colours and unique snorkelling sights. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are both transparent and full of colour. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). The seabed here gets steep quickly, and is better suited for young children on calm days – also when the beach is most beautiful. Check the wind direction, which should be blowing from the north for the best conditions.

If you can’t find sunbeds on Paleochori (the 2024 summer season saw the majority removed as operators await government permits), backup is within easy reach: quieter Tourlos beach is a half-a-minute’s drive away (put a Google map pin on D eep Blue cafe-bar – the stairs here lead down to the beach) with waters similarly striking.

Paleochori beach, Milos — *Dreamy Paleochori.*

*Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos beach is a few minutes drive from Paleochori.*

Three resident restaurant-bars spread out on its shores. Earth-toned Sirocco is the main attraction, well-known for its signature style of sand-cooked fare heated geothermically in pits. While it has all the romantic beginnings of being started by a fisherman who discovered he could cook an egg in its sand, it has now morphed into a modern boho-chic restaurant serving inspired and creative cuisine. Public parking is located directly behind Sirocco, although this gets packed out quickly. If you’re planning on dining at Pelagos, parking is available behind the tavern as well.

Pelagos Tavern and Cafe, Paleochori — *Mesmerising views at Pelagos tavern and cafe*.

In the mood for aquatic action? PITS Watersports will equip you with jet skis, wakeboards, waterskis, SUPs, and an array of inflatables.

THE PORT BEACHES – PAPIKINOU (ADAMAS) & POLLONIA

Not destination beaches in themselves, but the port beaches of Papikinou and Pollonia are worth mentioning if you’re staying in the area. The sandy, tree-lined bays have waters both tepid and transparent. Cult taverna draw O! Hamos! have sunbeds and parasols for rent on Papikinou, while The Deck has furnished a corner of Pollonia with padded lounging comforts.

Papikinou Beach in Adamas Port, Milos — *Papinikou beach on the fringe of Adamas, near the famed O! Hamos! taverna with sunbeds on the beach*.

Jan 11, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

Roadtrip to North Evia – Coastal Hideaways, Sizzling Seafood and Healing Spas

by Lindsay Dec 17, 2021

written by Lindsay

What’s left of the evergreen Eden of North Evia after the wildfires of 2021? An island of simple and pure pleasures that is our second home, we share what attractions remain to be enjoyed.

Last updated 6 June 2026

The 2021 inferno that engulfed North Evia was the biggest Greece has ever seen. Once a lush mountainscape of pine, oak, fir, and olive trees, 51,000 hectares of primary forest went up in flames in eight days. Along with the livelihoods of resin collectors, bee keepers, olive oil producers, and other agribusinesses.

Ours was a farm of almond trees. So heavy with fruit their branches almost grazed the ground. After seven years of waiting for them to mature, they were ready to supply their first yield. But rather than the bountiful harvest anticipated, we walked through scorched rows of skeletons scavenging for nut hulls that looked salvageable.

We had planned to take the girls on their first forest walk through Drymonas and its waterfalls at the start of the summer. Within a week, everything had changed. The forest we longed to introduce them to was gone, leaving little of its quiet magic for this generation to inherit.

The drive from Mantoudi to Agia Anna — *What remains of once scenic drives from Mantoudi to Agia Anna after the wildfires*

WHY NORTH EVIA?

Various reasons may continue to bring you to North Evia: It’s a gateway to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos) from Mantoudi’s new port. You might also be on a healing pilgrimage to Prokopi, also unharmed after a freak rain shower uncannily occurred after believers gathered at its church to intercede for a miracle. Seaside Limni—arguably northern Evia’s prettiest village—continues to charm with its elegant waterfront, while Agia Anna’s sweeping sea views remain as captivating as ever despite the loss of its surrounding forest. And then there’s Edipsos, whose famous thermal springs and historic spa hotels emerged unscathed.

FIRST STOP: CHALKIDA

Entrypoint to Evia on the island’s closest point to the mainland, Chalkida is picturesque and petite. Sizable enough to support basic city conveniences for its 100,000 strong population, locals might be able to get their fill of Zara and Oysho, but have to head out to Athens for the cinema.

The city’s feature is a waterside promenade lined with cafes-bars and restaurants designed for family strolls and kiddie scoots. Continue past the old bridge crossing over the “crazy tidal waters” that riddled Aristotle himself, and you will find Asteria. An expansive outdoor waterfront bar and restaurant that welcomes little ones with a playground positioned within clear view of a section of dining tables. If we needed accommodation in Chalkida, we’d look between this part of the promenade and the center, or one of the seafront Airbnbs in Alykes.

Chalkida’s waterfront promenade.
Playground by the sea near Asterias in Chalkida

Alykes is Chalkida’s summer highlight for us – a child-friendly beach only the locals seem privy to. With clear blue waters that lap over soft golden sand, it’s impressive for these parts. Personally, I find much of the island’s coastline more rugged than remarkable, with darker sands and pebbly shores. Settled by an assembly of cafe-bars for every taste, Daluz at the far right corner (as you face the sea) is our favourite with wood-framed sunbeds, breezy electro tunes, and a gently sloping seabed clear of large rocks.

*Daluz beach bar on Alykes in Chalkida – one of the most child-friendly beaches in the region*

THE ROAD TO MANTOUDI – GATEWAY TO THE SPORADES (SKIATHOS, SKOPELOS, ALONISSOS)

After exiting Chalkida, the drive north involves 40-minutes of dizzying twists through pine-carpeted highlands, before meeting Kireas river. It used to be prettier here, with water-loving plane trees crowding its banks, filtering the light through a lacework leaf canopy. Today, that beauty has been altered. An invasive disease that specifically targets plane trees has swept through the valley, leaving skeletal trunks where denser greenery once stood.

Prokopi village square and the Church of Saint John the Russian, North Evia — *Prokopi village square with the Church of Saint John the Russian in the background*

Not long after, the road reaches Prokopi, the first village of note in northern Evia. It is best known as a place of pilgrimage, where worshippers come seeking the intercession of Saint John the Russian, one of the Eastern Orthodox Church’s most revered saints. Around the church, the village square is lined with shops selling Evian pine honey and other traditional local products, reflecting the steady stream of pilgrims and visitors who pass through each year.

*On the way to Mantoudi, Alexiou’s is a special café stop with expansive garden grounds*.

Loukoumades — *Honey drizzled, cinnamon sprinkled, loukoumades doughnut balls*

Mandoudi’s village centre is just another 10-minute drive away. Once a thriving regional hub, its magnesite mines and processing plants powered the local economy for decades. Today, like many villages across rural Greece, it has grown quieter as its population has dwindled.

ΑΛΜΥΡΊΚΙ Taverna Kria Visi Beach, North Evia — *ALMYRIKI* – Dining among the fields just five minutes from Mandoudi, this remains one of our favourite neighbourhood tavernas.

Kimasi Beach and Port, just a five-minute drive from the village centre, is the gateway to the Sporades each summer. Fast ferries whisk travellers across to Skiathos in 40 – 60 minutes, while the pristine waters of the Alonnisos Marine Park are also within easy reach, making even exotic island escapes feel remarkably accessible for North Evians.

AGIA ANNA – A FAMILY-FRIENDLY COASTAL RETREAT

Our preferred swimming beach in North Evia is where yiayia (Grandma) is from. An endless sweep of charcoal shores, Agia Anna is Evia’s longest beach, looking out into the gentle outline of Skopelos in the horizon. Pebbly on the “organised” end (i.e. providing sunbeds and food service) with cafes and taverns lining the boardwalk, the sandier, wilder bit is where four-star, simple-but-sleek Thalatta resides. Bringing a surprise bit of flash when it first arrived on the nonchalant village scene, it’s now a seaside destination in itself, fitted out with family-sized rooms (just be careful of stairs with toddlers), airy restaurants, and even a kids club.

By North Evia’s sleepy standards, Agia Anna is something of a tourist “hotspot”. Yet it has also given us some of our most relaxed family days. We linger over coffee and homemade sweets beneath the mulberry trees at Remetzo while the girls transform a weathered tree stump on the beach in front into a vaulting table. Evenings once belonged to Maistrali (closed for the 2026 season), where its enviable beachfront setting became the backdrop for endless games of hide-and-seek during3-hour dinners. For beautifully fresh seafood, Trata remains another dependable favourite.

Some menu tips in these parts: order thrapsalo instead of fried calamari – distinctly more tender and tasty. And trade lobster for crayfish – sublimely sweet and delicately succulent. The region is also famed for its specialty shellfish like gialisteres, chténia scallops, and razor clams.

Maistrali Tavern Agia Anna, North Evia — *Seafront seafood dining at Maistrali*

COASTAL DRIVES, SEASIDE TOWNS & THERMAL SPRINGS

A scenic seaside road runs from Limni to Rovies and Edipsos in the northeast. And while the fires consumed Limni and Rovies, it self-extinguished in Ilia before reaching the thermal spring spa town and port of Edipsos.

Built on the prosperity of generations of seafaring captains, the seaside village of Limni is, in our view, northern Evia’s prettiest. As tourism has gently gathered pace, once-neglected neoclassical mansions have been restored into boutique hotels, stylish cafés and cocktail bars, while traditional tavernas continue to anchor village life. The Lakehouse is the area’s most polished new boutique stay, while Karnagio remains our favourite taverna—book ahead if you can, as tables are often in demand.

True to its name—Limni means “lake” in Greek—the harbour is often so still that it lends the waterfront an almost meditative calm. Its glass-clear waters reveal the rocky seabed below, where children delight in tossing crumbs to darting fish, ducks glide past leaving fleeting ripples, and colourful kaikia—traditional wooden fishing boats—bob gently on the mirror-like surface.

Baroux in Limni, North Evia — Coffee, cocktails and serenity at Barous in Limni.

While you might find teens dive bombing off Limni’s pier, we prefer Kochyli’s supersized family umbrellas for swims when Agia Anna gets wavy. Calm and washed over by crystalline waters, its waters are good for tots with some care, as its pebbly seabed gets steep quickly.

Limni's beach — *Family-friendly Kochyli beach in Limni is a 3-minute drive from its center*

If you’d rather combine a swim with lunch or dinner, head one beach further to Paralia. Equipped with sunbeds, umbrellas, a beach bar and a seaside taverna, it’s an easy place to spend the day without moving the car. There’s also a small playground beside the taverna—well used and a little weathered, but still enough to keep younger children happily occupied between bites.

Paralia Beach Bar, Rovies, North Evia — Paralia Pine & Sea in Rovies – where beach days drift into long seaside lunches.

A 30-minute drive from Rovies is North Evia’s most famous draw. The thermal springs of Edipsos drew all from Aristotle and Marcus Aurelius to Winston Churchill by the curative powers of its rich mineral content. A stately 19th century Thermae Sylla Wellness Hotel dominates the small spa town. Natural wells fill its pools daily with enriching waters saturated with metals and chemicals. While its indoor pool is only for guests over 15, infants and young children can enjoy it’s outdoor pool with sea water mixed into its spring waters. If you’re not a hotel guest, you can still enjoy the area’s therapeutic waters in the beach fronting the hotel where spring waters spill into the sea.

FROM EDIPSOS, TO OMPHALOS

Also a small port, from Edipsos you can cross over by ferry (which also transports cars) to the mainland port of Arkitsa in 45 minutes. Why? Because in another hour-and-a-half by car you can find your way to omphalos – the center of the ancient world. Kings, warriors and other supplicants similarly journeyed here seeking guidance from the oracle of Delphi at the Temple of Apollo. Carved into the towering rocks of Mount Parnassus (also a winter ski destination), the temple ruins continue to elicit wonderment. Best visited with a guide, walk its expansive grounds in the cooler months of spring and autumn.

GETTING THERE

Connected to the mainland by bridge, Evia is easy to get to. Chalkida (its capital) is a good day trip destination from Athens in under an hour’s drive. It’s also served by small ferry ports in Mantoudi, Edipsos, Agiokampos in the north, Kymi in central Evia, and Marmari and Nea Stira down south. There is no airport on the island.

Dec 17, 2021 0 comment

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