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Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🏇🏽 🦋 🎨 🏺 👨‍🌾 🛝

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also well balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. Not particularly enchanting at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, bits of its ancient history hideout within walkways. Settle at Symposium for coffee and crepe within its tangle of streets. On a raised platform overhung by a bougainvillea canopy, its a lovely stop from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a warm glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the quiet inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for emerging artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for a souvenir like no other.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🐝 👨‍🌾 🏛️

Greece is replete with alluring isles. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system will take you from town to its main beach attractions.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d stay clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

*Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA —

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

— chora (main town)? —

The Greek Chora is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Not quite for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but appealing with the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato-based dishes on repeat. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a carving of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter.Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades house interesting finds. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and friends back home. Fill the vessel-flute with water and blow to produce a delightful bird-like warble, still pleasant on the ears even after constant repetition.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Naxos chora — *The west-facing Chora at sunset*.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee the kids scamper at a distance as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Such special finds in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground or take a nature walk as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites of seafood and more.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from Paradiso’s beachfront tables dispels any a frazzled nerve. A taverna that’s also a mageireio, this is a type of eatery that is very useful for parents to know when in Greece. Serving ready-made, home-cooked style dishes, it’s perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds. Fussy eaters can survey the spread of stews and oven-baked meals on a buffet-like display before making their selection. There’s also the option to pack something to-go (without waiting) if its been that kind of day.

Paradiso Restaurant in Naxos — Beachside dining

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, while popular, Naxos doesn’t feel unbearably busy in general in managing to spread out the crowds, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would seek accommodation in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — *Palaios – settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.*

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *The sand kitchen of Sirocco.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this little Cycladic dream.

Last updated 1 Jan 2026

Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, some very good tavernas, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy apartment rentals have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s draw? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island (2026 update: Aeris Suites has started to offer the island’s first electric vehicle rental service), an on-call taxi (tel: +30698 73 37 290 – book ahead) stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half hour from 8am to 8pm. Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora, using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow across the Aegean in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, we stuff the family tote with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

All the island’s six beaches are blissfully sunbed free, or “unorganised” as they say in Greece, so be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes topped with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and oversized terracotta pot adornment imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Aside from tavernas both updated and traditional and the mandatory souvlaki hole-in-the-wall (a very good one), you will also find an artisanal gelateria, a loukoumades shop (Greek-style doughnuts) diagonally opposite, and newcomer Ca Chi Ca, introducing on-trend street food like bao buns and steak burgers with sublime cocktails. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like an arctic splash. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach, securing the best accommodation, and smaller dents in budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, neighbouring Naxos (with an airport) is just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, the fastest journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port takes 5 hours. Not short, but the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Car: We took our car on the ferry boat.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

FIND A FERRY TO CHANIA

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules from Pireaus (Athens) to Chania Port.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

by Lindsay Dec 29, 2019

written by Lindsay

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is proof of this. For out of the post-war housing crisis of the impoverished 1950s, the antiparochi system of service and asset exchange between construction worker and landowner gave rise to the city’s sprawl of concrete volumes, far removed from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past.

Inventive, charismatic, and still packed with exciting landmarks, it’s worth a 2 to 3-day stopover if it still holds appeal for you. The city is also spiffing up: ex-Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis introduced continuing efforts to remove graffiti, create pocket parks in the concrete sprawl, and a new wave of once derelict buildings are getting impressive makeovers.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options downtown include:

Ergon Houses – a nature-inspired, contemporary-chic sanctuary in the heart of town, new entrants Ergon House (23 Mitropoleos) and Ergon Bakehouse (9 Patroou) have extra large family rooms designed for parties of 4 and 5.
Colors Hotel – Splashed in cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven. Our only gripe – it’s located in Omonoia with a slightly seedy reputation in an unpretty part of town.
Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is just one block from the main shopping street of Ermou. Still too much for little legs? Retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing. Their triple rooms accommodate an accompanying child on a sofa bed, while Superior Connecting Rooms are an option for more.
Grand Bretagne – The traditional choice of luxury, and also with a rooftop pool, this iconic fixture at the corner of Syntagma Square charms with old-world grandeur. A skip away from Parliament, watch the changing of the Presidential Guards (Evzones or Tsoliades) ceremony on Sunday at 11am. If you miss Sunday’s grand event, a “routine change” takes place every hour, every day. Rollaway beds and connecting rooms are available on request.
AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool, but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) suited for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For longer stays demanding more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may suit you better. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. And if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a single visit to the Acropolis, consider venturing out to the southern coast for a more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care a precious few hours to explore the city unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days:

Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
A 10-minute walk from the main entrance of the National Gardens is the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology. Compact, interactive, and staffed with knowledgeable guides, adults and older children alike will leave suitably educated and entertained.
The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants that don’t spill out into a street. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. There’s a recently renovated playground in the shadow of the Acropolis.
Head south to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s more to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in seeking cool relief in the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. Apart from a shaded outdoor playground, XPLORE inside is an impressive kids entertainment center with a small aquarium, adventure arena, and science discovery zone.

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and smart, sit inside or out.
To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to. Another favourite in the area is Scholarchio, serving traditional plates since 1935. It’s tight inside, so bring crayons.
Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Using fresh milk from the cows of northen Greece, Kokkoin churns out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and vegan.
Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades dresses up the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings.

AND SIPS

The “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand (still a thing in parts of Greece) in Monastiraki Square next to Moustakas toy shop.
Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not already covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi or an eSIM, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone (has a stand at the airport at the luggage collection area) or Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected. Cosmote often launches unlimited data plans in summer for just €10 a month.
Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Note: most close on Sundays. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city, and may be open on Sunday (check ahead). If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
Pharmacies – In almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 9am to 8pm, and close on Sundays. Out of town, some close in the afternoon from 2pm to 5:30 pm.
Beachwear and swimming gear (for adults) – Oysho is a favourite, while Calzedonia carries a men’s selection. For a range of high-end swimwear including local designers, head to Attica departmental store.
Baby clothing, feeding and kids travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.

Dec 29, 2019 0 comment

Cyclades

Must-See Santorini: The Family Edit

by Lindsay Dec 27, 2019

written by Lindsay

Home to celestial villages with cosmopolitan flair, Greece’s Pompeii that is Akrotiri, unique gastronomy, and viticulture shaped by its volcanic history, we are still happy to brave the hordes (even with kidlets in company) to see astonishing Santorini.

With pearly-white villages that float atop the inner rim of a submerged caldera, Santorini’s sugar-cube quarters shine in the blaze of the Greek sun, glow orange and pink at sunset, and light up like a fairytale at night. From its calamitous volcanic history, a unique beauty has emerged to make the island a truly special place.

*Caldera village views. Image credit: Photo by Alex Azabache.*

Greece’s most visited island attraction draws over two million visitors a year. Overbearingly crowded in the giddying heat of its searing summers, can it still be enjoyed with family?

Returning on our second trip with an eight-month-old, we think so. Timed wisely, with the right accommodation, carefully selected activities, a car, and your expectations managed, it might even top the list of family adventures to remember.

WHERE TO STAY

The caldera’s cliffhanging village string of Fira, Imerovigli, and Oia is where to stay for the views the island is famous for. This is also where the multitudes descend to roam the narrow cobblestone streets of the island’s pin-up settlements. Flanked by colourful boutiques, art galleries, hip cafés, and bustling tavernas, while charming, these bumpy streets are crossed by stairs at almost every turn. Bring your baby carrier and leave the stroller behind.

If you’ve decided on these parts, select your location carefully. Fira, the capital and center of it all, is chaotic. Imerovigli a little better. And elegant Oia, with marble-paved streets and a cluster of luxury design hotels, the best of the three village options, we think.

Sunset at Oia village, Santorini Greece — *Oia’s legendary sunsets.*

It’s also a good idea to research your hotel thoroughly. Especially with first walkers in hand. Many of the caldera’s cave-type Cycladic dwellings are not designed with kids in mind. Stairwells are narrow, steep, and often without handrails, while low-slung balconies look out into jaw-dropping vistas.

We stayed in Aerie House in Oia. Spacious enough for the family with a living room and kitchen for the endless meal preparation requirements of a toddler, it also came without the worry of otherwise covetable private pools that dangle in the horizon. Set a nominal flight of stairs away from the main street so we could dodge the crowds, it’s still attractively close to all the action when you want. Local treasure Atlantis Books (including a children’s section) is also just a minute’s walk away.

What to do in the area? A scenic 10-kilometre hiking trail skirting the cliff’s edge takes you from Fira to Oia. Passing through Firostefani and Imerovigli, it’s an enjoyable way to explore the island with kids over four. If you only manage a walk to Firostefani, stop by nondescript Aktaion with tables outside for sumptuous sea views. A cozy, home-like family-run restaurant since 1922, it surprises with a modern spin on local flavours. Also nearby is Vanilla with a rooftop garden and broader menu options including child-pleasing pastas and pizzas. If you make it to Oia, settle into Melitini’s rooftop terrace for medley of meze (Greek tapas).

ESCAPE THE CROWDS: SOUTHERN SEASIDE VILLAGES

While Santorini is all about its mesmerising clifftop vistas, staying in its southern beach strip provides relief from a daily clash with tourist hordes. Yes, you will still have to join cars and buses vying for road space and parking to visit the island’s main villages of interest. But if the convenience of water-frolicking fun at your doorstep sounds appealing, look to the sandy beaches of Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari. All “organised”, as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas furnished by beachfront cafés and tavernas, it’s a family-friendly set-up. The black sand is an added novelty, but burns in the sun, so bring water shoes.

Perissa beach Santorini Greece — *Instead of blue and white, the black sands of Perissa are typical of the island’s beaches.*

As a volcanic island, Santorini doesn’t boast idyllic white sands and aquamarine waters you might idealise. Skip onto neighbouring islands like Naxos or Mykonos for that. And while beaches may not the highlight here, Vlychada is notably impressive backed by sculptural pumice rock cliffs. It’s also home to Theros Wave Bar and restaurant on a semi-secluded bit of shore. Providing all the comforts for elevated beach lounging, sit back with a cocktail and savour stunning scenery alongside atmospheric tunes.

You might hear of the Red Beach at some point, with red sand. Harder to reach, it requires a short but dubious trek which we do not recommend if you are with young children. For us, the Red Beach is good for a quick look rather than to spend an afternoon in.

The Red Beach, Santorini Greece — *The Red beach – over-hyped and hard to reach with young ones.*

DINING WITH KIDS

Finding a restaurant that didn’t make my Greek husband feel like prey in a tourist trap was challenging, but Taverna Katina stood out. For seafood in general, and lobster spaghetti in particular. Laid-back, authentic, and with sufficient toddling space between tables, it sits on the waters of Amoudi Bay below the red cliffs of Oia.

Seafood Taverna Katina, Amoudi Bay (Oia), Santorini Greece — *Seafood Taverna Katina at Amoudi bay, below Oia.*

In general, dining within the narrow walls of Santorini’s famed villages can be a little too cozy for bouncing balls of energy. Take a break from the village bustle and retreat to rolling vineyards of acclaimed wineries like Domaine Sigalas and Venesantos for meals paired with top-rated tipples, and where everyone can have their bit of fun.

PREHISTORIC TREASURES & ADVENTURES

When the afternoon sun overpowers, escape into the sheltered (most archaeological sites in Greece are not) and extraordinary Bronze Age city of Akrotiri. Like Pompeii, its remains were buried and preserved by ash after a volcanic eruption in the 16th century B.C. . Still an active archaeological site, it has been thoughtfully constructed with wide walkways and viewing platforms that take you directly above the multi-story buildings and through the dusty streets of the ancient settlement. Hiring a guide when visiting key archaeological sites in Greece is always worthwhile. Later, break for seafood at The Dolphins taverna close by, and right by the water.

The covered archaeological site of prehistoric Akrotiri is best visited with a guide.
Dolphin seafood restaurant in Akrotiri, next to the Red Beach.
Traditional seafood dining at Dolphin Taverna

WHEN TO VISIT

Timing is everything for enjoying Santorini. High season stretches from June to September. Go in the peak of summer (July and August) and you’re likely to get smothered in tourist hordes crammed into tight alleyways. In October and November, the crowds ease off its strained infrastructure (road network included). The sea might be a tad chilly for swimming, but the black sand beaches of Santorini are not known for spectacular swims anyways. So if this doesn’t bother you, these late autumn and early spring months are the best times to visit.

With its mild Mediterranean climate, winter travel is rising in popularity. Giving you a glimpse into the hypnotic magic of the island, here you will have its sunsets all to yourself. Holidays in December, January and February (when the first cruise ships start arriving), are, however, at risk of rain. A selection of hotels will be open, along with a few restaurants catering to locals, and all will be happily more affordable.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Santorini in 45 minutes from Athens. With a small and recently refurbished international airport, you can also fly in from London and other major European cities in summer.

The high-speed ferries from Pireaus or Rafina ports in Athens otherwise take five to seven hours. The island’s ferry port also connects you with other stunning near neighbours like Folegandros, Ios, Naxos and more Cycladic destinations.

For island hopping inspiration from Santorini, refer to our article with suggestions on island pairings.

Getting There:
- Flights from Athens Airport: 55 minutes
- High-speed fFerry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours 35 minutes. Note: the Santorini Athinios port is notoriously busy. It’s better to fly into the island if you are crowd averse.
Where We Stayed: Aerie House, Oia
Eat:
- Aktaion (Firostefani)
- Melitini Greek Tapas (Oia)
- Taverna Seafood Katina (Amoundi Bay)
See:
- Akrotiri Archaeological Site
Shop:
- AK Art Gallery (Fira and Oia)
- Mati Gallery (Fira)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Vassilopoulos (refer to map below) – our go-to supermarket on the islands. Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site: https://www.santorini.gr

Dec 27, 2019 0 comment

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