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Top Family Picks

Our top picks of the best Greek islands for a family holiday.

The Best Greek Islands with Kids – Our Roundup for 2026

by Lindsay Nov 22, 2025

written by Lindsay

Awash with sapphire seas scalloped by glittering beaches, the allure of the Greek Isles has particular appeal to water-loving adventurers. But it’s a complex scene for the uninitiated. Made even more intimidating with wild tempers, distracted little legs, and picky (but ever-hungry) eaters in tow.

Santorini and Mykonos may be poster children of the Greek isles, but are far from the best options for families. Also popular is Crete, which requires angelic road-trip patience for kids at 12 times the size of Singapore. And while Instagram posts tout hidden gems with spectacular beaches like Lefkada, read the fine print to uncover the possible 300m descent it took to get there.

So, when summer’s family vacation duty calls, where to? Our endless quest for the best islands in Greece has culminated in this year’s roundup. Distilling the most magical escapes that meet that finicky, child-friendly formula of easy swimming, sprawling dining grounds, amenities, and accessibility, they might be the answer to that relaxed family escape you thought you would have before you had kids.

NAXOS

With a continuous 12-mile stretch of shallow, sandy beaches on its western coastline, its hard to compete with Naxos for top spot on a hitlist of family-friendly islands in Greece. But that’s not all – this blessed coastline is considerately dotted with spacious tavernas, low-key beach cafes, and slick boutique stays, offering ultimate convenience and ease for families. Time for more off-beach? Head inland to a different scene of quiet mountain villages. Naxos is full of easy options to pick from. Like a ferry port and airport just a 10-minute drive from the Chora (main village), catering to whether you prefer to ferry or fly in. It doesn’t get more seamless than this.

PAROS

Paros is Naxos’ posh sister without the frenzied pomp of Mykonos, but all its natural beauty. Circled by a gentle coastline carved in with luminous beach coves for calm, crystal-clear swimming, some go further with the offer of dreamy beachhouse equivalents of ski-to-door accommodation. Exuding effortless cool, Paros appeals to the cosmopolitan jet set. Alongside snazzy dining options are simple tavernas for kids in company, curated island shopping, and design-forward artisans. In short, activities aplenty for kids and grown-ups alike.

Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

SIFNOS

Sifnos seduces. With barefoot elegance, surprising beauty in stunning corners, culinary sophistication, and subtle refinement. A tiny island with a powerful personality, it’s the kind of place you want to keep to yourself to maintain its quietly evocative atmosphere. What it lacks is supreme beach beauty in radiant colours so prevalent in the Cyclades. But parents (of small children especially) will be drawn to the convenience and charm of seaside villages like Platis Gialos, waterside tables, and easy island discovery treks. Your only option is to brave the Greek ferry system to get there, but travel during shoulder season and you should be able to avoid most of its discomforts.

SKOPELOS

A departure from the blue and white allure of the Cycladic islands, Skopelos displays a more exotic beauty of pine tree forests that meet turquoise seas typified in the Sporades. In spite of MamaMia!, it maintains an easy way about it that lulls parents into relaxation. Beyond afternoons splashing in stunning seas, spend evenings roaming the Chora, designated a “Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Beauty” by Greek presidential decree in 1978. Classically beautiful, but brimming the eclectic energy of an Asian eatery, island brewery, and cafes that serve matcha lattes fit for Japan. We’re in love with Skopelos.

LIMNOS

Sitting solitarily in the North Aegean straddling Greece’s border with Turkey, landscape and locals alike receive you with the country’s famed hospitality in off grid Limnos. Fom its volcanic past, a diversity of curious landforms beckon exploration. The not-too-demanding kind, across undulating hills that end in shallow shores. On a volcanic dome sits Myrina castle and capital, where an easy ascent through fortress grounds rewards with wild deer encounters. From desert landscapes and salt lakes (sometimes with flamingos) to strange seaside rockscapes, there’s lots to fill a slow-travel itinerary. And while its grey-sand beaches are nothing to rhapsodize about, many are organised, with a hyper-leisurely vibe, and where foreigners are the rarity. Limnos is where you are truly in Greece.

Nov 22, 2025 0 comment

Destinations

Limnos is Pure Greece – A Guide to the North Aegean’s Family Delight

by Lindsay Sep 05, 2025

written by Lindsay

From a seaside sprouting bun-shaped rocks, to a fortress with free-roaming deer, little-known Limnos is filled with child-loving surprises.

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It was about 4pm when we settled under the thick shade of a line of Mulberry trees at Agrokiali. A late lunch even by Mediterranean standards. We were famished. And when our plates arrived, it was like they understood exactly how famished. We haven’t seen these portion sizes in Greece for a long time.

Limnos, as we were going to discover, is like that. Greece before the onslaught of mass tourism. Where a serving for one Greek belly feeds two internationally. Where dessert is gifted after meals as a gesture of welcome generosity towards guests. Where Greek is not spoken over by American, British and Australian-English accents. And where you can still enjoy seaside sunloungers for free, with patronage.

Agios Ioannis, Limnos — *Sunset at Agios Ioannis*.

After holidaying in the heavily-touristed Cyclades, Limnos was a fresh breath of heartfelt hospitality. Like its pillowy hillscape of undulating land, it embraces arrivals with gentleness and generosity. A land largely untamed, but with just enough polish to put family travellers at ease. With fertile lands, a strategic location bridging the East and the Aegean, and safe harbours, its fortunate history of modest prosperity shows up in Neoclassical harbourfront villas, manicured villages, and good infrastructure (for Greece).

WHAT TO DO

Most tourists flock to Greece for the beach. Sandy, shallow and organised (as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas), the sheltered coves scalloping the Limnian shoreline are great for child’s play, Yet, with sand the colour of Mercury (pristine, nonetheless) and better viewed from a drone-shot distance, it wasn’t our highlight.

Salt Lake in Limnos — *From salt flats (pictured here) home to migratory birds including flamingos in winter, to sand dunes, Limnos’ landscape is diverse and impressive.*

There are a bevy of other things to do. If you wanted one place to introduce your children to an impossible ensemble of fascinating geosites, Limnos landed in the fortuitous confluence of it all. Strangely, it also has more playgrounds than we have seen on any other Greek island, all impressive by Greek standards. In addition to well-maintained archaeological sites, sprawling dining venues both atmospheric and child-friendly, and a seaside Chora (main village) with wide pedestrian-only walkways. Throw horse riding into the sea, basket weaving workshops, wind and kite surfing classes – and it’s hard to keep up with the options. Here’s what we packed into 7 days:

— MYRINA HARBOUR & CASTLE —

Spotting poo in our pathways has never been as exciting. For within this Byzantine fortress grounds, a herd of spotted Fallow deer roam. As we made our way through its vast grounds built on a volcanic dome, we spotted one, then a family of three, and finally a gathering of at least 30 grazing deer on the grassy plain near the foot of the citadel. The walk is a continuous ascent over dirt and stone, past a scattering of crumbling fortification walls, arched gates, and underground bunkers. There was little whining on the way, just the desire to keep exploring.

Visit at least an hour before sunset to watch it sink in the direction of the lighthouse. You might also want to fuel up before the walk with coffee and pancakes at Nefeli bar at its foot, overlooking the waterfront.

Shaded shopping walkways in Myrina — *The main shopping street in Myrina is largely shaded for comfortable summer walks.*

— FARAKLOU ROCKS —

I was excited to show the girls the geological marvels of spheriodical weathering and frozen lava flows. But all they could see was a food fantasy of rocks shaped like croissants and chocolate buns. An entertaining food fantasy, nonetheless. After the 3km dirt road ends, a 5-minute walk will bring you to this whimsical place of Sarakiniko-like beauty. Best visited early in the morning or when the sun relents, you can cover the site in 30 minutes.

— THANOS BEACH —

A beach with benefits, the kids were very happy for the inflated water park at Thanos to colour their daily beach trips. Rotating between a thrilling 4-meter high slide, climbing tower, and a bouncy trampoline, it’s the non-stop action you need to reverse the job of an afternoon siesta. For kids 5 years and up, the fee is €8 per hour or €5 for 30 minutes.

— SANCTUARY OF THE KABEIROI —

An archaeological site visit was never going to excite the kids. Thankfully, you correspondingly only pay for adult entry (€5 per person) at Greek archaeological sites. Recently renovated with new facilities (toilets with baby changing tables included), this sanctuary’s cliffside spot is a beautiful and breezy one. There’s also shade to be found under a pergola by a spreading fig tree where kids can sit with a snack bag, while parents appreciate an encounter with 6th century B.C history. Archaeologists at work restoring the lower portion of the slope added interest to our visit. The site closes at 2pm, ruling out evening visits, so head out early instead.

The Sanctuary of Kabeiroi in Limnos — *Dedicated to the Kabeiroi Gods, the sanctuary is one of 3 of the most important ancient settlements in Limnos (Poliochni and Hephaistia are two others)*.

— PLAYGROUNDS —

Playgrounds in Greece are often a scrappy sight, but the ones in Limnos are a cut above. Strategically located are the ones in Moudros harbour (opposite To Kyma taverna where we are happy to dine on repeat) and Myrina’s waterfront.

DINING WITH KIDS

Our introduction to the Limnian dining scene centered around our apartment rental in Agios Ioannis, peppered with a noteworthy variety of seaside restaurants that couldn’t be better in the company of children. Along with options in town and in-the-middle-of-nowhere villages, these were our standout experiences:

— BARBOUNAKI (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Camped under a rock stack on the shores of Agios Ioannis, Barbounaki is the most atmospheric dining spot on Limnos. Basket-weave lampshades and dreamcatchers sway from tamarisk branches with blue wooden boats tucked under, creating little nooks for child’s play in this rustic elegant island dining dream.

Can a place this beautiful have good food to match? Perhaps better. When you think you’re just ordering sardines, a selection of the largest, chubbiest, and juiciest five arrive in star formation on a bed of sliced onions. Meanwhile, the fried calamari was so finely-crisped yet succulent, distinguishing themselves a notch above traditional taverna fare.

— AGROKALIA (AGIOS IOANNIS) —

Thoroughly laid back with a zen-inducing view towards the sea, Agrokialia is quintessential, traditional seaside taverna dining. Complete with Greek folk music from the 60s. And keeping with Greek tradition, meats tend to be cooked on the very well done side, so I’d go for seafood. As if to deliberately force you into ease, the service is also languid, but very friendly. A big bonus for families with children? Shaded swings by a small vineyard and heaps of space all around.

— KALOUDITSA (PLATY) —

In the corner of Platy village square opposite a pint-sized playground, Kalouditsa‘s popular appeal is apparent from its lunchtime crowd. Tavernas in Greek squares don’t usually attract in the heat of summer, so its the only place in the square that’s busy. A handwritten menu card of meat-heavy mains (oven-baked pork in orzo, oven-baked beef with mash and caramelised onions, goat with roasted potatoes) is small, but well-executed. …And to finish, a sublime shot of homemade liquor from geranium and cinnamon sealed our lasting impression. Unfortunately, they don’t make enough of this to sell.

— CAVO DEL MAR (MYRINA) —

The spacious waterfront strip is where you want to dine with children in Myrina. And when the kids chant for pizza, Cavo Del Mar treats you to decent Italian with a semi-elegant vibe to match. Any a fussy eater should find their match in a formidably large selection of pizzas, pastas, meats, and even salads.

— REMEZZO (PLAKA) —

Visiting the northern attractions of the island? Remezzo set in the wilderness of Plaka’s outskirts calms with heavy countryside silence. Traditional taverna favourites have a home cooked slant, with gigantes (giant beans), dolmades (rice wrapped in grape leaves), and beetroot salad on the menu. The kids opted for loukaniko (local sausage) having run out of burgers for the day, alternating with zucchini fries.

WHERE TO STAY

There are many benefits to staying in the port capital of Myrina, including the fortress attraction, the town and its amenities (AB Vassilopoulos, our go-to supermarket on the islands, bakeries, pharmacies and a playground), and a beach a little farther down.

But the seaside tranquility of Agios Ioannis 20 minutes away suited us better, with our favourite dining haunts, a mini mart, and evenings soaked in hypnotic views of the sun sinking behind Mount Athos. A scattering of apartment rentals line the beachfront with easy access to the sea. And in spite of new builds that keep mushrooming, the vibe is still thoroughly laid-back.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Throughout rolling hills of arid bushland and terracotta roofed villages, camouflaged military bunkers are scattered throughout. A solitary mass in the North Aegean seas, Limnos sits on the borders of Greece, facing Turkey in the horizon.

An island airport whisks travellers from Athens to Limnos in 45 minutes, although a 9-hour ferry ride is also possible. Closer are the north mainland ferry ports of Thessaloniki and Kavala, in addition to possible connections with neigbouring islands like Lesvos and Thassos.

Book a car rental as soon as you book your tickets, as providers are limited. Happy Rentals provided us with a brand new drive, and service we couldn’t complain about.

Sep 05, 2025 0 comment

Sporades

More Than Mama Mia!: A Perfect Family Escape in Skopelos

by Lindsay Jul 18, 2024

written by Lindsay

Beyond the emerald-sapphire beach coves and that enchanting chapel in Mama Mia’s film sets, Skopelos is full of beautiful surprises and irresistible charm.

Located opposite North Evia where we live, sometimes your nearest neighbours are the easiest to overlook. Until they brought the island to our literal doorstep with the launch of a summer ferry service from our home in Mandoudi. It became silly to continue to ignore. What did we discover on Skopelos?

Thoroughly family-friendly, Skopelos is unexpectedly, and quite exceptionally, attractive. Mama Mia! may have inspired boat tours that descend on otherwise calm beaches in a frenzy of ABBA, but otherwise, the island remains relatively unadulterated. So far escaping the degradations of development, it maintains a refreshingly relaxed authenticity.

Skopelos has also got edge. A new wave of entrepreneurs have set up Asian bistros, cantinas in the forest, and superfood-focused cafes. On a low-key roll, here’s how to maximise your itinerary when you’re in the company of tiny travellers:

THE SWIMMING SCENE

Like its sister islands (Skiathos, Alonissos and Evia) in the Sporades, Skopelos is lush. Fringed by pine tree forests, its luminous green and blue bays are cinematically beautiful and pristine. Even on busy beaches, vendors and guests seem to be an environmentally-conscious lot, keeping them cleaner than I have seen on the beaches of other popular islands.

*Stafylos bay, resplendent in the quintessential colours of Skopelos.*

The sand grain type here is of the pebbly (Bring Posca pens for rock art) variety – advantageous if you don’t enjoy sand sticking to your feet. Also, because of this texture, seashore gradients tend to run steep.

What are the idyllic bays to visit with kids? These are our picks.

VILLAGE CHARM

Skopelos’ Chora (main town) was designated a protected Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Beauty in 1978. A stone-paved waterfront (pedestrian-only in the evenings) is crowned by an amphitheatric vision of terracotta roofed houses, while mulberry and plane trees dot the seafront boulevard. Unlike the dry Cyclades, there’s always a tree-shaded bench for baby to sneak a snooze on with Dad, while Mom slips off into Jasmine-scented back alleyways for a bout of island shopping.

Skopelos town waterfront — *The waterfront boulevard of Skopelos’ main town.*

Within tangled village streets designed to confound marauding pirates of the time, a colourful mix of tenants line and surround the Old Town walkways. The Skopelitan variety is polished and progressive in a uniquely Greekly-charming way: A coffee cum juice bar serving gluten-free bread helmed by a bearded, ponytailed barrister, a local micro brewery and bar, and locally-celebrated Rodio – a pottery shop specialising in bold, black earthenware made with a patented process… As night falls, warmly-lit boltholes glow with dark handsome barmen housed within. This is the kind of village I wouldn’t mind living in.

Main town (Chora) of Skopelos — *Village walks.*

There’s more if you venture up towards the Venetian fortress, taking the seaside stairway where the 16th century Church of the Virgin Mary sits. Whitewashed and pared-back Donkee is a chic cocktail bar with ambrosial sips, soothing tunes, and sublime views that take centerstage. Cycladic style Anatoli near the top has tables scattered over terraces that open out into breathtaking vistas. The walk up is not the easiest for young kids, but doable, and best attempted in sneakers.

Anatoli Taverna in Skopelos' Chora — *The walk up to the Venetian fortress rewards with sublime views. Stay to dine at Anatoli or have cocktails at Donkee.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

The whole point of Greek islands in summer is the beach. And considering the glacial pace of how we move with children, beachfront accommodation is our choice of retreat. Ideally no more than a 5-minute walk to the sea. Look into accommodation at the seaside villages of Stafylos and Agnotas with waters that are both lovely for swimming, and not more than an 8-minute drive from the Chora where you are likely to be spending many evenings. While the beach at Stafylos is nicer, Agnotas is more complete with a café for morning espresso hits and mini mart popsicle stops.

Dominated by boutique hotels and apartment rentals, Adrina is one of two five-star resorts on the island if you enjoy a bit of luxe. Sitting aloof on the edge of Panormos, this is another covetable swathe of sand to seek accommodation in. Complete with an array of village amenities, Panormos a 20-minute drive out from the Chora.

DINING WITH CHILDREN, TAKEOUT & A SWEET STOP

Dining comfortably with kids for us means spaced-out tables in sprawling grounds. Or after a particularly adventurous day, better yet if we can bring the restaurant home to us. Here are some tasty tables that fit the bill:

— STOU DIMITRAKI (CHORA) —

It’s quite possibly a rule that the best tavernas are not the tourist traps clustered along the Chora waterfront. Looking on the outskirts instead, Stou Dimitraki is a buzzy-casual joint with a wide and well-priced menu. Our highlights: a velvety psarosoupa (fish soup), octopus in wine sauce, and baked eggplant.

— MOURIA FISH TAVERNA (AGNONTAS) —

Korali, we were told, was the place to dine at in the small port of Agnontas. But the sleek spot with menu options like scorpion fish carpaccio and tuna tartare felt like a mismatch with our fresh-from-the-sea savages. Instead, we gravitated towards the tables under the Mulberry trees (Mouria in Greek) at the water’s edge. Tucking into our usual seafood taverna assortment of fried zucchini, grilled sardines, shrimp pasta, cuttlefish with spinach (excellent), and grouper with onions (plaki), it’s the kind of long drawn out dining experience on the beach that is quintessentially Greek.

Mouria Seaside Tavern in Agnontas, Skopelos — *Classic Greek island seafood dining at Mouria.*

— MANOLIS (NEO KLIMA) —

Neo Klima transports you to traditional Greek village quietude before the rise of mass tourism, just a 6-minute drive from Kastani. Apart from a traditional menu of grilled seafood and chops, Manolis offers a buffet of ready-cooked meals that a Greek mom would lovingly prepare in her home kitchen: Oven-baked young goat (“katsiki”), “special” chicken and bell pepper stew, soul-warming gigantes (giant bean stew)… The draw of this set-up? Kids can preview their meals before they are dished out to avoid disappointment. And post-meal, a generously-sized playground next door is the perfect controlled environment for watching tiny tots run wild on a full stomach.

Manolis Taverna in Skopelos, Greece — *Dining in quietude (and a playground next door) in Neo Clima.*

— TAKEOUT —

After a long day out, you might just want to kick-back and dine on just about anything at home. Pita gyros aside, there are more enticing takeout options in Skopelos. Azan is a magerió in the Chora – a type of eatery serving traditional homecooked recipes prepared ahead, and ready to serve. Gourmet Street Food nestled in forest groups complete with play equipment and farm animals serves sandwiches, burgers and gyros if you’re on the way back from the southwestern beach strip.

— BARRAMES (CHORA) —

Just about every waterfront cafe and taverna in Skopelos has an ice-cream counter onsite. But few are homemade, like Barramarres in the middle of town. Amidst a giddying variety of flavours to choose from, regionally inspired spin-offs like Galaktoboureko (a beautiful Greek custard pie) and Kunefe (a Turkish sweet cheese pastry) standout on the menu. The winning touch? Hanging swing chairs for the kids to rock in while on their sugar high.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

June and September. With climate change heating up peak summer months unbearably and unpredictably in July and August, these are increasingly clear times to avoid for us. Note: The ferry from Mandoudi may only start operating from mid-June. Schedules are typically released in late Spring.

GETTING THERE

There’s no airport in Skopelos, but a few ways of arriving by boat. Fly into Skiathos and take a 30-minute ferry (Seajets high-speed ferry operates the route from Mandoudi – Skiathos – Skopelos – Alonissos in summer), drive to Mandoudi in North Evia (2 hours) from Athens and take a 2-hour ferry, or drive to Volos in mainland Greece (3.5 hours) and take a 2-hour ferry. Most ferries allow you to drive your car on board as well with its own ticket.

FIND A FERRY FROM SKIATHOS

Input your planned travel dates below to find ferry schedules and pricing from neighbouring Skiathos.

Jul 18, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Winter Holidaying in Greece: Surprising Kalavrita

by Lindsay Jan 04, 2024

written by Lindsay

A winter retreat with ski runs named after Greek Goddesses like Leto and Alkimini, Kalavrita is nestled in alpine prettiness a 2-hour drive from Athens. It also has plenty of family-friendly, off-slope attractions to offer.

The idea of skiing in Greece may raise some eyebrows, but its soaring peaks harbour a clutch of winter wonderlands that are arguably as attractive as its cult beach draws. If you’ve heard of one, it’s probably Arachova. Locally known as the “winter Mykonos”, an apres-ski scene draws glitzy Athenians who swig cocktails to chase the cold away.

Equally close to Athens is Kalavrita. A cozy mountain village offering child-friendly activities connected with its natural beauty. From the village center, a ski center and school sits a 20-minute drive up the slopes of Mount Helmos. While there are no ski-to-door accommodation options here, ample parking is available. It’s a good alternative for late planners (like us) to otherwise overbooked, overcrowded, and heavily-priced Swiss or French Alp itineraries.

There’s more to Kalavrita beyond snow sports. Sitting in a National Park resplendent with geomorphological diversity, a cog train ride snakes through the vertiginous Vouraikos river gorge, then down to coastal Diakofto for a seaside lunch. You can also visit a spectacular cave phenomenon with subterranean cascading lakes. In Planitero village, fish farmers set up tavernas by river source waters and grill fresh-caught trout to serve. And of course, there’s the mandatory Greek village square to explore, where stone buildings cluster around a Christian Orthodox church anchoring the main square.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

It’s always a good idea to stay close to main villages where supermarkets, cafes, tavernas and bakeries gather. In Kalavrita, more ideal perhaps, is slightly higher up in the restorative silence of the mountains, where the pine-scented air is especially crisp, and valley view vistas leave you feeling a little lighter each morning. Thanasis’ chalet set in the slopes of Koklos is a 7-minute drive from the main village. Drawn to the light-filled, wood-panelled cabin, his cosy mountain hideaway wasn’t just exceedingly enchanting, it was complete. Right down to a fridge fully-stocked with milk, eggs, bread, and other breakfast essentials.

Kalavrita Airbnb — *A mountainside chalet dream a 7-minute drive from the main village*

As we settled-in, the kids zipped from the basement playroom, out onto the verandah and its beam-slung swing, then wandered into the kitchen for snacks where they discover a magical cornflake dispenser. And the highest highlight? The sweetest dog Rhea that stands guard outside which they adopted for the week. This was their dream of the ideal Airbnb.

THE MAIN VILLAGE SQUARE

From our chalet in the mountains, we made easy trips in the mornings and evenings to cafes (Utopia for coffee and custard-filled bougatsa breakfast takeaways), the bakery, and tavernas.

The main village walkway — *Village walks in the main town.*

To Spitiko was memorably delicious. Translating to “home” in Greek, in the warm, wood-clad enfolds of a small mountain taverna, it felt like that. Our meals were a beautiful balance of traditional with an artful touch of a talented chef to elevate. The highlight for me was oven-baked arni (goat), with melty breaks of flavour-filled fat between the meat. The children finished their rooster in red sauce and pasta with little coaxing. And if you have weaning toddlers in hand, gigantes is a giant bean tomato-based stew that works well for smashing into baby purees. We returned to take away meals for dinner at home the day after.

In the heart of the square, Montana cafe-lounge seemed spacious enough to accommodate fidgety kids. Plunging into leather sofas by the fireplace, we wind-down with walnut pies, crepes and hot chocolate.

ODONTOTOS TRAIN

The Italian-built cog railway might be more than 120 years old, but it’s a modern, compact “Smart”-like train car that takes passengers on a slow chug around near vertical cliffs of the Helmos – Voraikos gorge. Following the river down to the Gulf of Corinth, the ride is scenic, but it’s also long. An hour each way, my 3 and 6-year olds were much less captivated by the magnificence of nature slipping by our windows, and quickly grew bored after the initial excitement of a train ride.

The train station in the village centre — *The train station is in the center of Kalavrita’s village.*

If you make the trip anyways, bring snacks to keep little ones busy. Other key tips: book your ticket online and in advance before showing up at the station. And when you do, keep in mind that it’s not clear from the seat plan that every two rows turn inwards to face each other. Select successive seat rows accordingly if you plan to sit together as a family.

Kalavrita Train Ride Views — *Scenic, but slightly boring for young kids.*

You might also want to travel on a weekend. When we arrived in sleepy Diakofto on a Tuesday at 12:10pm, most of the village restaurants were closed. Quite a plight with little else to do before the return train departs at 3pm. Check ahead to make sure the taverna you plan to visit (our sights were set on seafront Kohili) will be open for lunch plans in between. But if you find yourself in the same situation as us, try Kostas grill. More of a meat place, but because his brother owns the fish monger a few doors down, we had a hefty kilo of calamari and fried barbounia (red mullet).

THE SKI CENTER

Rising up to 2,340m at its highest point, Kalavryta ski resort presents enough challenges for experienced skiers with 14 ski runs (including a black run) and 8 lifts. Its facilities are otherwise basic, including the requisite base cafe cum canteen for espresso hits and savoury pies. Ski lessons can be arranged for children from 3 years, while a snow fun park offers additional entertainment for the less adventurous. Undergoing a series of upgrades, a brand new cable car was also installed this year taking groups of 10 up mid-slope.

Kalavrita Ski Center — *The new cable car ride at the ski center.*

THE CAVE OF LAKES

In an astonishing 2-kilometer long cave complex in Kastria, a subterranean river has carved out remarkable sculptures within the 3 floors of its limestone walls. A steel pathway of crossings and bridges take you through fantastical stalactite and stalagmite forms, and over miniature lakes that fill over when the snow melts. It’s an easy walk even for a 3-year old.

Don’t skip over the museum at the entrance (it should really be your first stop). Nondescript on the outside, it surprises with modern, interactive displays within. There’s also a guide to take you through the exhibits.

Cave of Lakes Museum in Kalavrita Greece — *Don’t skip over the easy-to-miss museum at the entrance to the Cave of Lakes.*

PLANITERO

A 5-minute drive on from the Cave of Lakes, the source of the river Ladonas springs from the lush grounds of sleepy Planitero village. These are the mountain forests of a storybook, where crystal clear waters gush through streams and rivers that sparkle under the dappled light of the winter sun filtering through walnut, plane and oak trees.

Two tavernas have set-up fish farms around these springs, raising river trout, salmon and sturgeon that will jump from farm to your fork. Fish Farm is situated in manicured garden grounds that are also home to an unexpected population of swans and other domesticated fowl – a diversity of play pals for kids in tow. Rustic Planitero has a larger menu, including an impressive number of ways to prepare your fish. Baked in cognac-filled parchment, or roasted with almonds? The options are a salivating spread of flavour-dense dishes.

WHEN TO VISIT

The village gets decked out for Christmas from 13 December, recalling the holocaust of 13 December 1943 when the male village population was exterminated by the occupying German army. December is early for snow if you plan to ski. Greece’s ski season typically runs from January to February, and is when the village is busiest.

Jan 04, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Day Trip from Athens: Chalkida (Evia) with Kids

by Lindsay Jun 07, 2023

written by Lindsay

Evia’s nondescript capital is not an obvious destination for tourists and Athenians alike. Its draw for us? Family-friendly attractions, relaxed seafood dining, and a lovely beach within an hour’s drive of Athens.

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Gateway to Evia, Chalkida connects Greece’s second largest island to the mainland by two bridges on the island’s center. With its ease of access, why isn’t it more popular than it is?

Without the obviously breathtaking to draw souvenir-seeking crowds, it’s easily overlooked. And while I wouldn’t suggest it for first visits to Greece, it can be a good day trip destination from Athens, or as a stopover on your way north to Mandoudi port to catch a summer ferry to the Sporades.

Here are five favourite haunts and activities with the kids in Chalkida:

1. WATERSIDE PROMENADE WALKS (& EATS)

Built along the Evian Gulf, the city’s waterside promenade is perfect for slow family strolls and kiddie scoots. Start from the iconic 19th century Red House on the northern end, where an assembly of cafes boasting elevated sea views sit beside wide open spaces where giggling children play tag.

The walk towards the old bridge is lined with trendy cafés and touristy moussaka-touting tavernas on stand-up banners at the entrance. The better restaurants are found past the old bridge where it gets quieter on the waterfront. Euvous presents well-executed modern dining that’s big on meats, and even more impressive appetisers. A few doors down, edgy Tsafaki ouzerie is a top spot for sampling the island’s specialty shellfish and seafood.

The old drawbridge connects the mainland to the island at the strait’s narrowest point. Linger long enough and you might notice the “crazy waters” that confounded Aristotle with water currents that change directions eight times a day.

Past the bridge, a 10-minute walk down, is outdoor beach bar and restaurant Asteria. Here, the self-consciously hip gather for cocktails and club beats, alongside families that hover around a fenced playground. This is a space for everyone.

2. THE (MINI) FUN PARK

Close to the city square is a mini fun park that’s just the right size – not too large so adults are not hounded into spending hours, but with a handful of attractions for a brief fill of fun. A mini bumper car ring and eighties-era amusement park aside, trampolines by the sea are perfectly positioned for a sunset bounce.

A mini fun park by the water in Chalkida City — *Trampoline by the sea*

3. BISKOTOGLYCO SWEET BOUTIQUE

By the Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi in the city’s main square (Avantes) is a small heaven of dessert, both traditional and updated. A medley of textures and luscious flavours are the stuff of cake dreams. But it’s the velvety soft serve and artisanal ice cream the girls jump for every visit. From this central spot, you’re not far the city’s main pedestrian-only shopping street (Avanton). Put a google pin on Zara and you’ll find where the shopping action surrounds. A restaurant worth mentioning in the vicinity is Piato. Set in soothing Scandanavian-styled interiors, a luscious repertoire of modern-Greek flavours stream out from the kitchen. Or just a very tasty burger if that’s more up your kid’s alley.

*Biskotoglyko – a mandatory sweet stop in Avantes square*

4. ALYKES – ROCK POOLS & BEACH BARS

Better than most beaches in Athens, and with less of a crowd (although you will still be hard-pressed for loungers on a summer weekend), Alykes was a frequent escape for a summer splash when we lived in the big city. Its fine, fair coloured sand and turquoise waters are unusual for dark and wild volcanic Evia. An attractive respite for families, a family-friendly line of beach bars line its shores, some with bouncy castles and playground equipment.

Daluz beach bar in Alykes, Chalkida — *Daluz is one of many family-friendly beach bars in Alykes*

Daluz is our favourite in a quieter corner at the far end, with a shallow seabed that stretches for a distance, and decent-for-a-beach-bar fare they can serve to your beach lounger. Alternatively, kick-back on grassy lawns of Ippokampus under the shade of mulberry and fig trees.

Between stretches of sandy shoreline at Alykes are rocky outcrops that only became interesting after kids. Easy-access rock pools teem with sea life waiting to be discovered. Endless are the hours they spend watching shrimp and baby fish scuttle up and down flooded cracks, collecting and releasing tiny hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks in search of crabs and slithering brittle stars.

Rock pools in Alykes beach, Chalkida — *Uncovering crabs, catching shrimp, and looking for hermit crabs in the rock pools of Alykes*

5. SEASIDE SEAFOOD DINING

Seafood is a highlight in Greece. And in Evia, there’s more to get excited about. Home to varieties of shellfish only available in these parts, Greeks come to Chalkida to feast on exotic, fresh-caught delicacies. Paleologos is a seaside tavern where our meals stretch for hours, in part because the kids discover a good time running in circles in the little garden behind.

Palaiologos Taverna Chalkida — *Chalkida is renowned for fresh fish and shellfish, and Palaiologos is our go-to seafood tavern*

In it’s largeness, Evia doesnt quite feel like an island. But twenty minutes out from Chalkida’s city is Nea Artaki with a distinct island vibe, and more seafood taverns to choose from.

Nea Artaki in Chalkida — *Nea Artaki seaside village 10 km north of Chalkida*

Jun 07, 2023 0 comment

Cyclades

Andros: For Family Adventures Within Easy Reach of Athens

by Lindsay Nov 25, 2022

written by Lindsay

Greece has many well-kept secrets.

How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions.

🏖️ 🍙 🥾 👨‍🌾

Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered.

Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.

Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens (the stunning beaches of Serifos excepting, with less frills, however). And within the folds of four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built on the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with incredible collections. Not just archaeological, but modern art exhibits that once included Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup.

And of course, there’s food. Local produce takes centre stage with the island’s bounty of agricultural produce. On Andros, your humble taverna might surprise you with a Greek salad topped with a creamy dollop of homemade feta whipped from the milk of goats grazing on fertile meadows nearby.

Agios Petros Beach Andros, Greece — *Agios Petros beach on the island’s family-friendly west coast*.

With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was just enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip: