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Top Family Picks

Our top picks of the best Greek islands for a family holiday.

More Than Mama Mia!: A Perfect Family Escape in Skopelos

by Lindsay Jul 18, 2024

written by Lindsay

Beyond the emerald-sapphire beach coves and impressive chapels of Mama Mia’s film sets, Skopelos is full of beautiful surprises and irresistible charm.

Located opposite North Evia where we live, sometimes your nearest neighbours are the easiest to overlook. Until they brought the island to our literal doorstep with the launch of a summer ferry service from our home in Mandoudi. It became silly to continue to ignore. So what did we discover on Skopelos?

Thoroughly family-friendly, Skopelos is unexpectedly, and quite exceptionally, attractive. Mama Mia! may have inspired boat tours that descend on otherwise calm beaches in a frenzy of ABBA, but otherwise, the island remains relatively unadulterated. So far escaping the degradations of development, it maintains a refreshingly relaxed authenticity.

Skopelos has also got edge. A new wave of entrepreneurs have set up Asian bistros, cantinas in the forest, and superfood-focused cafes. On a low-key roll, here’s how to maximise your itinerary when you’re in the company of tiny travellers:

THE SWIMMING SCENE

Like its sister islands (Skiathos, Alonissos and Evia) in the Sporades, Skopelos is lush. Fringed by pine tree forests, its luminous green and blue bays are cinematically beautiful and pristine. Even on busy beaches, vendors and guests seem to be an environmentally-conscious lot, keeping them cleaner than I have seen on the beaches of other popular islands.

*Stafylos bay, resplendent in the quintessential colours of Skopelos.*

The sand grain type here is of the pebbly (Bring Posca pens for rock art) variety – advantageous if you don’t enjoy sand sticking to your feet. Also, because of this texture, seashore gradients tend to run steep.

What are the idyllic bays to visit with kids? These are our picks.

VILLAGE CHARM

Skopelos’ Chora (main town) was designated a protected Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Beauty in 1978. A stone-paved waterfront (pedestrian-only in the evenings) is crowned by an ascending vision of terracotta roofed houses, while mulberry and plane trees dot the seafront boulevard. Unlike the dry Cyclades, there’s always a tree-shaded bench for baby to sneak a snooze on with Dad, while Mom slips off into Jasmine-scented back alleyways for a bout of island shopping.

Skopelos town waterfront — *The waterfront boulevard of Skopelos’ main town.*

Within tangled village streets designed to confound marauding pirates of the time, a colourful mix of tenants line and surround the Old Town walkways. The Skopelitan variety is polished and progressive in a uniquely Greekly-charming way: A coffee cum juice bar serving gluten-free bread helmed by a bearded, ponytailed barrister, a local micro brewery and bar, and locally-celebrated Rodio – a pottery shop specialising in bold, black earthenware made with a patented process… As night falls, warmly-lit boltholes glow with dark handsome barmen within. This is the kind of village I wouldn’t mind living in.

Main town (Chora) of Skopelos — *Village walks.*

There’s more if you venture up towards the Venetian fortress, taking the seaside stairway where the 16th century Church of the Virgin Mary sits. Whitewashed and pared-back Donkee is a chic cocktail bar with ambrosial sips, soothing tunes, and sublime views that take centerstage. Cycladic style Anatoli near the top has tables scattered over terraces that open up into the breathtaking vistas. The walk up is not the easiest for young kids, but doable, and best done in sneakers

Anatoli Taverna in Skopelos' Chora — *The walk up to the Venetian fortress rewards with sublime views. Stay to dine at Anatoli or have cocktails at Donkee.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

The whole point of Greek islands in summer is the beach. And considering the glacial pace of how we move with children, beachfront accommodation is our choice of retreat. Ideally no more than a 5-minute walk to the sea. Happily in Skopelos, the seaside villages of Stafylos and Agnotas have waters that are both lovely for swimming, and not more than an 8-minute drive from the Chora where you are likely to be spending many evenings, and possibly mornings. While the beach at Stafylos is nicer, Agnotas is more complete with a café for morning espresso hits and mini mart popsicle stops.

Dominated by boutique hotels and apartment rentals, Adrina is one of two five-star resorts on the island if you enjoy a bit of luxe. Sitting aloof on the edge of Panormos, this is another covetable swathe of sand to seek accommodation in. Complete with an array of village amenities, Panormos a 20-minute drive out from the Chora.

DINING WITH CHILDREN, TAKEOUT & A SWEET STOP

Dining comfortably with kids for us means spaced-out tables in sprawling grounds. Or after a particularly adventurous day, better yet if we can bring the restaurant home to us. Here are some tasty tables that fit the bill:

— STOU DIMITRAKI (CHORA) —

It’s quite possibly a rule that the best tavernas are not the tourist traps clustered along the Chora waterfront. Looking on the outskirts instead, Stou Dimitraki is a buzzy-casual joint with a wide and well-priced menu. Our highlights: a velvety psarosoupa (fish soup), octopus in wine sauce, and baked eggplant.

— MOURIA FISH TAVERNA (AGNONTAS) —

Korali, we were told, was the place to dine at in the small port of Agnontas. But the sleek spot with menu options like scorpion fish carpaccio and tuna tartare felt like a mismatch with our fresh-from-the-sea savages. Instead, we gravitated towards the tables under the Mulberry trees (Mouria in Greek) at the water’s edge. Tucking into our usual seafood taverna assortment of fried zucchini, grilled sardines, shrimp pasta, cuttlefish with spinach (excellent), and grouper with onions (plaki), it’s the kind of long drawn out dining experience on the beach that is quintessentially Greek.

Mouria Seaside Tavern in Agnontas, Skopelos — *Classic Greek island seafood dining at Mouria.*

— MANOLIS (NEO KLIMA) —

Neo Klima transports you to traditional Greek village quietude before the rise of mass tourism, just a 6-minute drive from Kastani. Apart from a traditional menu of grilled seafood and chops, Manolis offers a buffet of ready-cooked meals that a Greek mom would lovingly prepare in her home kitchen: Oven-baked young goat (“katsiki”), “special” chicken and bell pepper stew, soul-warming gigantes (giant bean stew)… The draw of this set-up? Kids can preview their meals before they are dished out to avoid disappointment. And post-meal, a generously-sized playground next door is the perfect controlled environment for watching tiny tots run wild on a full stomach.

Manolis Taverna in Skopelos, Greece — *Dining in quietude (and a playground next door) in Neo Clima.*

— TAKEOUT: GOURMET STREET FOOD & AZAN —

After a long day out, you might just want to kick-back and dine on whatever at home. Thankfully, aside from pita gyros, there are more enticing takeout options in Skopelos. Azan if you’re in the Chora, or Gourmet Street Food (also equipped with play equipment and farm animals that roam fun forest grounds) if you’re on the way back from the southwestern beach strip.

— BARRAMES (CHORA) —

Just about every waterfront cafe and taverna in Skopelos has an ice-cream counter onsite. But few are homemade, like Barramarres in the middle of town. With a giddying variety of flavours to choose from, regional spin-offs like Galaktoboureko (a beautiful Greek custard pie) and Kunefe (a Turkish sweet cheese pastry) convinces us we have made the smartest choice. The winning touch? Hanging swing chairs for the kids to spin around in while on their sugar high.

GETTING THERE

There’s no airport in Skopelos, but a few ways of arriving by boat. Fly into Skiathos and take a 30-minute ferry, drive to Mandoudi and take a 2-hour ferry, or drive to Volos and take a 2-hour ferry. Most ferries allow you to drive your car on board as well if it’s got its own ticket.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

June and September. With climate change heating up peak summer months unbearably and unpredictably in July and August, these are increasingly clear times to avoid for us. Note: The ferry from Mandoudi may only start operating from mid-June. Schedules are typically released in late Spring.

Jul 18, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Winter Holidays in Greece: Surprising Kalavrita

by Lindsay Jan 04, 2024

written by Lindsay

A winter retreat with ski runs named after Greek Goddesses like Leto and Alkimini, Kalavrita is nestled in alpine prettiness just a 2-hour drive from Athens. It also has plenty of family-friendly, off-slope attractions to offer.

Skiing in Greece may raise some eyebrows, but its soaring peaks harbour a clutch of winter wonderlands that are arguably as attractive as its cult beach draws. If you’ve heard of one, it’s probably Arachova. Also known as the “winter Mykonos”, its apres-ski scene draws a glitzy Athenian following who swig cocktails to chase the cold away. Equally close to Athens is Kalavrita. A cozy mountain village offering child-friendly activities connected with its natural beauty, it’s a good alternative for late planners (like us) to otherwise overbooked Swiss or French Alp itineraries.

Kalavrita has lots to offer beyond ski. Sitting in a National Park resplendent with geomorphological diversity, a train ride snakes through the vertiginous Vouraikos river gorge, then down to coastal Diakofto for a seaside lunch. You can also visit a spectacular cave phenomenon with subterranean cascading lakes. In Planitero village, fish farmers set up tavernas by river source waters and grill fresh-caught trout to serve. And of course, there’s the mandatory Greek village square to explore, where stone buildings cluster around an Orthodox church that anchor the main square.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

It’s always a good idea to stay close to main villages where supermarkets, cafes, tavernas and bakeries gather. In Kalavrita, more ideal perhaps, is slightly higher up in the restorative silence of the mountains where the pine-scented air is especially crisp, and valley view vistas leave you feeling a little lighter each morning. Thanasis’ chalet set in the slopes of Koklos is a 7-minute drive from the main village. Drawn to the light-filled, wood-panelled cabin, his cosy mountain hideaway wasn’t just exceedingly enchanting, it was complete. Right down to a fridge fully-stocked with milk, eggs, bread, and other breakfast essentials.

Kalavrita Airbnb — A mountainside chalet dream a 7-minute drive from the main village

As we settled-in, the kids zipped from the basement playroom, out onto the verandah and its beam-slung swing, then wandered into the kitchen for snacks where they discover a magical cornflake dispenser. And the highest highlight? The sweetest dog Rhea that stands guard outside which they adopted for the week. This was their dream of the ideal Airbnb.

THE MAIN VILLAGE SQUARE

From our chalet in the mountains, we made easy trips in the mornings and evenings to cafes (Utopia for coffee and custard-filled bougatsa breakfast takeaways), the bakery, and tavernas.

The main village walkway — Village walks in the main town.

To Spitiko was memorably delicious. Translating to “home” in Greek, in the warm, wood-clad enfolds of a small mountain taverna, it felt like that. Our meals were a beautiful balance of traditional with an artful touch of a talented chef to elevate. The highlight for me was oven-baked arni (goat), with melty breaks of flavour-filled fat between the meat. The children finished their rooster in red sauce and pasta with little coaxing. And if you have weaning toddlers in hand, gigantes is a giant bean tomato-based stew that works well for smashing into baby purees. We returned to take away meals for dinner at home the day after.

In the heart of the square, Montana cafe-lounge seemed spacious enough to accommodate fidgety kids. Plunging into leather sofas by the fireplace, we wind-down with walnut pies, crepes and hot chocolate.

ODONTOTOS TRAIN

The Italian-built cog railway might be more than 120 years old, but it’s a modern, compact “Smart”-like train car that takes passengers on a slow chug around near vertical cliffs of the Helmos – Voraikos gorge. Following the river down to the Gulf of Corinth, the ride is scenic, but it’s also long. An hour each way, my 3 and 6-year olds were much less captivated by the magnificence of nature slipping by our windows, and quickly grew bored after the initial excitement of a train ride.

The train station in the village centre — The train station is in the center of Kalavrita’s village.

If you make the trip anyways, bring snacks to keep little ones busy. Other key tips: book your ticket online and in advance before showing up at the station. And when you do, keep in mind that it’s not clear from the seat plan that every two rows turn inwards to face each other. Select successive seat rows accordingly if you plan to sit together as a family.

Kalavrita Train Ride Views — Scenic, but slightly boring for young kids.

You might also want to travel on a weekend. When we arrived in sleepy Diakofto on a Tuesday at 12:10pm, most of the village restaurants were closed. Quite a plight with little else to do before the return train departs at 3pm. Check ahead to make sure the taverna you plan to visit (our sights were set on seafront Kohili) will be open for lunch plans in between. But if you find yourself in the same situation as us, try Kostas grill. More of a meat place, but because his brother owns the fish monger a few doors down, we had a hefty kilo of calamari and fried barbounia (red mullet).

THE SKI CENTER

Rising up to 2,340m at its highest point, Kalavryta ski resort presents enough challenges for experienced skiers with 14 ski runs (including a black run) and 8 lifts. Its facilities are otherwise basic, including the requisite base cafe cum canteen for espresso hits and savoury pies. Ski lessons can be arranged for children from 3 years, while a snow fun park offers additional entertainment for the less adventurous. Undergoing a series of upgrades, a brand new cable car was also installed this year taking groups of 10 up mid-slope.

Kalavrita Ski Center — The new cable car ride at the ski center.

THE CAVE OF LAKES

In an astonishing 2-kilometer long cave complex in Kastria, a subterranean river has carved out remarkable sculptures within the 3 floors of its limestone walls. A steel pathway of crossings and bridges take you through fantastical stalactite and stalagmite forms, and over miniature lakes that fill over when the snow melts. It’s an easy walk even for a 3-year old.

Don’t skip over the museum at the entrance (it should really be your first stop). Nondescript on the outside, it surprises with modern, interactive displays within. There’s also a guide to take you through the exhibits.

Cave of Lakes Museum in Kalavrita Greece — Don’t skip over the easy-to-miss museum at the entrance to the Cave of Lakes.

PLANITERO

A 5-minute drive on from the Cave of Lakes, the source of the river Ladonas springs from the lush grounds of sleepy Planitero village. These are the mountain forests of a storybook, where crystal clear waters gush through streams and rivers that sparkle under the dappled light of the winter sun filtering through walnut, plane and oak trees.

Two tavernas have set-up fish farms around these springs, raising river trout, salmon and sturgeon that will jump from farm to your fork. Fish Farm is situated in manicured garden grounds that are also home to an unexpected population of swans and other domesticated fowl – a diversity of play pals for kids in tow. Rustic Planitero has a larger menu, including an impressive number of ways to prepare your fish. Baked in cognac-filled parchment, or roasted with almonds? The options are a salivating spread of flavour-dense dishes.

WHEN TO VISIT

The village gets decked out for Christmas from 13 December, recalling the holocaust of 13 December 1943 when the male village population was exterminated by the occupying German army. December is typically early for snow if you plan to ski. Ski season properly runs from January or February, and is when the village is busiest.

Jan 04, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Day Trip from Athens: Chalkida (Evia) with Kids

by Lindsay Jun 07, 2023

written by Lindsay

Evia’s nondescript capital is not an obvious destination for tourists and Athenians alike. Its draw for us? Family-friendly attractions, relaxed seafood dining, and a lovely beach within an hour’s drive of Athens.

_{Last updated 15 June 2024}

Entrypoint to Evia, Chalkida connects Greece’s second largest island to the mainland via two bridges on the island’s center. With its ease of access, why isn’t it more popular than it is?

Without the obviously breathtaking to draw souvenir-seeking crowds, it’s easily overlooked. And while I wouldn’t suggest it for first visits to Greece, it’s a good day trip destination if you’re spending some time in Athens, or stopping over on a longer summer itinerary (travel further north to Mandoudi port and summer ferries will take you to the Sporades).

Here are five favourite haunts and activities with the kids in Chalkida:

1. WATERSIDE PROMENADE WALKS (& EATS)

Built along the Evian Gulf, the city’s waterside promenade is perfect for slow family strolls and kiddie scoots. Start from the iconic 19th century Red House on the northern end, where an assembly of cafes boasting elevated sea views sit beside wide open spaces where giggling children play tag.

The walk towards the old bridge is lined with trendy cafés and touristy moussaka-touting tavernas on stand-up banners at the entrance. The better restaurants are found past the old bridge where it gets quieter on the waterfront. Euvous presents well-executed modern dining that’s big on meats, and even more impressive appetisers. A few doors down, edgy Tsafaki ouzerie is a top spot for sampling the island’s specialty shellfish and seafood.

The old drawbridge connects the mainland to the island at the strait’s narrowest point. Linger long enough and you might notice the “crazy waters” that confounded Aristotle with water currents that change directions eight times a day.

Past the bridge, a 10-minute walk down, is outdoor beach bar and restaurant Asteria. Here, the self-consciously hip gather for cocktails and club beats, alongside families that hover around a fenced playground. This is a space for everyone.

2. THE (MINI) FUN PARK

Close to the city square is a mini fun park that’s just the right size – not too large so adults are not hounded into spending hours, but with a handful of attractions for a brief fill of fun. A mini bumper car ring and eighties-era amusement park aside, trampolines by the sea are perfectly positioned for a sunset bounce.

A mini fun park by the water in Chalkida City — *Trampoline by the sea*

3. BISKOTOGLYCO SWEET BOUTIQUE

By the Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi in the city’s main square (Avantes) is a small heaven of dessert, both traditional and updated. A medley of textures and luscious flavours are the stuff of cake dreams. But it’s the velvety soft serve and artisanal ice cream the girls jump for every visit. From this central spot, you’re not far the city’s main pedestrian-only shopping street (Avanton). Put a google pin on Zara and you’ll find where the shopping action surrounds. A restaurant worth mentioning in the vicinity is Piato. Set in soothing Scandanavian-styled interiors, a luscious repertoire of modern-Greek flavours stream out from the kitchen. Or just a very tasty burger if that’s more up your kid’s alley.

*Biskotoglyko – a mandatory sweet stop in Avantes square*

4. ALYKES – ROCK POOLS, BEACH BARS & BOUNCY CASTLES

Better than most beaches in Athens, and with less of a crowd (although you will still be hard-pressed for loungers on a summer weekend), Alykes was a frequent escape for a summer splash when we lived in the big city. Its fine, fair coloured sand and turquoise waters are unusual for dark and wild volcanic Evia. An attractive respite for families, a family-friendly line of beach bars line its shores, many with a formidable set-up of bouncy castles and playground equipment.

Daluz beach bar in Alykes, Chalkida — *Daluz is one of many family-friendly beach bars in Alykes*

Daluz is our favourite in a quieter corner at the far end, with a shallow seabed that stretches for a distance, and decent-for-a-beach-bar fare they can serve to your beach lounger. Alternatively, kick-back on grassy lawns of Ippokampus under the shade of mulberry and fig trees.

Between stretches of sandy shoreline at Alykes are rocky outcrops that only became interesting after kids. Easy-access rock pools teem with sea life waiting to be discovered. Endless are the hours they spend watching shrimp and baby fish scuttle up and down flooded cracks, collecting and releasing tiny hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks in search of crabs and slithering brittle stars.

Rock pools in Alykes beach, Chalkida — *Uncovering crabs, catching shrimp, and looking for hermit crabs in the rock pools of Alykes*

5. SEASIDE SEAFOOD DINING

Seafood is a highlight in Greece. And in Evia, there’s more to get excited about. Home to varieties of shellfish only available in these parts, Greeks come to Chalkida to feast on exotic, fresh-caught delicacies. Paleologos is a seaside tavern where our meals stretch for hours, in part because the kids discover a good time running in circles in the little garden behind.

Palaiologos Taverna Chalkida — *Chalkida is renowned for fresh fish and shellfish, and Palaiologos is our go-to seafood tavern*

In it’s largeness, Evia doesnt quite feel like an island. But twenty minutes out from Chalkida’s city is Nea Artaki with a distinct island vibe, and more seafood taverns to choose from.

Nea Artaki in Chalkida — *Nea Artaki seaside village 10 km north of Chalkida*

Jun 07, 2023 0 comment

Cyclades

Andros: For Family Adventures Within Easy Reach of Athens

by Lindsay Nov 25, 2022

written by Lindsay

Greece has many well-kept secrets. How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions.

Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered.

Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took top priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.

Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens. And within the folds of its four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built by the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with priceless collections. Not just archaeological, but modern art exhibits that once included Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup. And of course, there’s food. Local produce takes centre stage with the island’s bounty of agricultural produce. On Andros, your humble taverna might surprise you with a Greek salad topped with a creamy dollop of homemade feta whipped from the milk of goats and cows grazing on fertile meadows nearby.

Agios Petros Beach Andros, Greece — *Agios Petros beach on the island’s family-friendly west coast*.

With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was just enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip:

WHERE TO STAY

While Andros is large, where to stay is relatively straightforward depending on your interests. For swimming on repeat, the coastal stretch from Agios Petros to Batsi is scalloped by family-friendly beach coves with accommodation options located directly behind. If inland mountain and village adventures has greater appeal for you, the main town (Chora) in the east is well-placed. And if you’re divided between the two, lovely seaside Batsi is close to the island’s covetable child-friendly beaches, while shaving off 10 minutes from the otherwise 50-minute journey east from Agios Petros. Alternatively, divide your stay and time between both coasts.

— AGIOS PETROS —

On the island’s honeyed western coast, a scattering of apartments have sprouted behind the clutch of beach shacks on lazy Agios Petros. Conveniently situated, key provisions like a bakery (a very good one), a mid-sized supermarket, even a general supplies store (with a great section of arts and craft supplies for kids), and an excellent pizza parlour make this an attractive, low-key option for families.

— BATSI —

Batsi is enchanting. A harbourside village without the portside-touristy ugliness of many, this cutest of coves has an attractive assortment of café, tavernas and useful amenities (pharmacies and mini-marts) encircling its bay. There’s also especially good ice-cream to be savoured at Yo N Ice after easy splashes at the not-bad resident beach.

— CHORA (MAIN TOWN) —

Where neoclassical mansions tumble down a gentle hillslope onto a spit of land jutting out into the sea, cinematic Chora is a beautiful jumble of cafés, tavernas, child-friendly squares, and museums. From Plateía Girokomeíou (the large square by the public carpark near the outdoor cinema), a central stone-paved street leads you to its end, anchored by a commanding bronze statue of “the unknown sailor” overlooking the remains of a small Venetian castle. Wide, pedestrian-only, and smooth enough for strollers, pit stops for coffee, mezze, and ice-cream give tired little legs a chance for a break. The Museum of Contemporary Art is a highlight, with an impressive line-up of summer programmes for kids and teens that might even be something to plan your dates around. The centre of island life and a cultural hub, Chora is also a convenient base for exploring 4-million-year-old Foros cave, Pythara waterfalls in Apika, and other villages: aristocratic Lamrya, Menites with its lion-headed fountains, and seaside Korthi.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Andros’ iconic beaches (like the island pinup Tis Grias To Pidima) that intrigue with wild and dramatic beauty are unfortunately hard to reach with small feet in company. At the same time, there’s no shortage of dreamy swims you don’t have to earn on the island. Accessible, shallow, and organised with sunbeds and parasols, here are our three favourite tot-friendly splashing grounds with parking located directly right behind.

— GOLDEN SAND —

With far-reaching shallow waters to embolden any water-weary 2-year old, this is our top choice for the best child-friendly swimming. There’s only one bar to be found on the small arc of soft golden sand, and while its service at the time is nothing to rave about (to put generously), we thoroughly enjoyed its waters.

The cozy arc of sand at Golden beach has one beach bar providing sunbeds, parasols and refreshment.
Shallow, aquamarine waters at Golden beach,

— AGIOS PETROS —

A lengthy neighbouring stretch of pristine coast, the waters here are similarly pretty. Although sand speckled with bits of rock makes it slightly less comfortable if anyone wanted to roll around on the shore. Beach-shack type bars separated by makeshift bamboo dividers give it a hippie-chic appeal. Kaliva manages to layer on relaxed elegance with draped curtains, and is where we settle down. Perhaps it’s the friendly service, the sleepy sunset, or very decent tipples, but all is infectiously relaxing.

Kaliva Beach Bar, Andros, Greece — *Linger for sunset at rustic chic Kaliva on Agios Petros*

— KYPRI —

With a main draw being watersports, we weren’t sure if there was much for little D in Kypri. Until a 4-year old boy coaxing a tiny surfboard along the shoreline floated across our sunbed. Inspired, she wanted to do the same. Vasiliki from the professional crew at Wesurfin had a free slot for us. In her special way with kids, she guided D out on a mini windsurf and showed her some basics as they ventured far beyond her usual paddling grounds. Also a restaurant and beach bar, Wesurfin is as serious about their sport as their food (bistro favourites with a luxe spin). Think burgers cooked to medium-well juicy perfection with sweet potato fries, pork tenderloin, and reliable pasta options for kids. Alternatively, Flivo next door is a relaxed, child-friendly hangout (complete with baby changing tables and a playground behind) that can also mix a good vodka tonic.

If you’ve come just for swimming, however, the beach here has a plane of rocky seabed, and slightly murky waters stirred by waves.

The professional and friendly crew at Wesurfin

OFF-BEACH

Wind through Andros’ windswept ribbon of streets and an Alice in Wonderland fill of adventures await. If, like us, you revel in countryside encounters for the nature-naive like sheep and goat sightings, picking figs on a gentle hike to a waterfall, or collecting acorns on the walk back from a cave, you will love Andros as much as we did.

— FOROS CAVE —

Would being engulfed by Gaudi-esque sculptures in cold, musty darkness be a nightmarish experience girls? As our uphill walk to the cave grew from 5 to 15 minutes, so did my concern. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be our 4-year-old’s most (positively) memorable experience that summer.

Lead by Google maps, we parked in a dent on the roadside opposite a sign that read “350 meters on foot to Foros cave”. This didn’t sound too intimidating. But the thing to know is that a lot of that walk is uphill. Part of a hiking route, the stoned-paved path is nonetheless a scenic one. Mostly unshaded, bring hats.

Exploring Foros Caves with kids in Andros, Greece — *Descent into darkness in Foros cave*

At the top, a lone cave guide awaits with a smile like a pitstop in a bizarre fantasy adventure. She takes groups in one at a time. If others arrive, there’s a waiting area tucked into the hillside, complete with (very clean) toilets and a water fountain for refilling water bottles. To my sweaty post-trek delight, our guide whipped out hair nets to place beneath our hard hats as we geared up for the journey. The girls were happy to don their own dinosaur versions, and even happier to be handed torch lights for the descent into darkness.

The steep and narrow path down is tricky if you have children to mind, but we managed with rails to guide us along. And while much of what was said on the tour was beyond her, little D enjoyed the experience enough to enthusiastically want to return.

— PYTHARA WATERFALLS —

Admittedly short of spectacular, I attempted this mainly for the experience of finding some waterfall to explore. The walk is 20 minutes long, but easy. It’s not something I’d suggest if you’re tight on time (especially if you’ve got the cave and chora already in a day’s itinerary, as we did). But if you have an afternoon to spare, little ones will find joy in frog and tadpole hunting, dragonfly spotting, and skipping over water pools from boulder to boulder.

Unintuitively, you park at the sign to Pythara waterfalls that seems to lead to nowhere. It’s located right by a small house where a side alleyway will take you to a tree-lined path that gradually fills with the sounds of water.

— 3MELISSES ORGANIC APIARY —

An apiary tour had been on my mind since D started asking about the pastel-coloured boxes she frequently spotted in honey-producing Evia where we live. But finding none there, some combination of words in Google search led us to 3Melisses in Andros. While it’s not part of the usual experience they offer, Katerina and Lefteris warmly welcomed us to their off-grid mountainside laboratory. Between bites of cheese, spoonfuls of a spectrum of honey types, and playing with Lefki, the family dog, we went from observation hive to processing facility, gaining an insightful glimpse into the magic of honey production.

3Melisses, Andros, Greece — *Looking for Queen bee in the hive of observation*

— CHORA —

It’s amazing how a simple square can elicit so much pleasure for children. As we walk up to Chora’s largest by the unexpected retirement home, the girls take off running. Once you’ve coaxed them out from the crazed circuit, take the stone walkway to the smaller square where cafés line-up offering food and refreshment along the pedestrian-only pathway.

Kairi square, surrounded by cafes, eateries and museums.
The statue of the Unknown Sailor overlooking castle ruins.

In most Greek island Choras, we wouldn’t suggest strollers or dining in typically tight alleyways with kids. But Andros’ Chora has wider-than-usual streets uninterrupted by too many stairs. Mod-chic Endochora with fancy cocktails is celebrated for a novel take on local cuisine. Or for a quick crepe stop with tired kids, try Las Strada.

DELICIOUS DINING WITH KIDS

From farmhouse and seaside dining to our vote for the best ice-cream in the Cyclades, these are the gems serving standout food in settings that indulge children equally.

— KOSSIS FARM —

When yiayia (grandma) says papu (grandpa, who stayed behind this trip) would love this meat place, you understand that it is something special. Truly sumptuous, we decimated 500 grams of lamb chops quite easily while the kids devoured their bifteki (burgers without the buns). But Kossis is more than just a seriously good tavern. Ducks, fowl, cows, ponies, and even deer roam its grounds to make this a family attraction as much as a dining destination. And if that’s not joy enough for parents, its large clean toilets come complete with a baby changing table.

Deer spotting.
Ducks and other game in their swimming pool.

— TO STEKI —

Another tavern set in a family-friendly patch of land on the way to Foki beach, To Steki has a large menu of traditionally-loved fare. Although admittedly, the real highlight here is being able to dine with a view of the kids on swings, slides, and in the company of a resident pony.

— MASTELLO —

After one-too-many classic Greek meals, Mastello was a welcome respite of modern, gastronomic heaven. Our purist slant initially cast a shade of skepticism on dishes like the “tarama trilogy” (a traditional fish roe spread) presented in three perfect rounds, but the creative spin on classic Greek cuisine was faultlessly executed. Don’t miss the Amberjack with celery and leek puree. And the buttery crayfish orzo with exquisite depth of flavour. If you’re with kids, consider reserving the tables on its beachside set-up.

— YO N ICE —

It’s not easy to make gelato that balances guilt-free sugar levels with indulgent pleasure, but Yo N Ice does just that. What’s even better? Having it stuffed in warm Tsoureki (a sweet bread) and spread over with hazelnut praline.

GETTING THERE

While it doesn’t have an airport, the ferry to Andros is a good alternative to air travel. Departing from quieter Rafina port (20 minutes from Athens International Airport), this is a much less chaotic experience than journeys from Pireaus. Because of its proximity to the mainland, the boats travelling there are not the superfast vessels with airline seating, but larger superships with cafe-style seating, a shop, and ample space to roam. If a flexible schedule allows you to choose brands, pick Golden Star over Superjets. Better maintained, cleaner, and more generous with space, it’s always been a better ride for us.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main summer tourist season runs from June to September. We usually aim for June and September to avoid the intensity of the heat (and possible heat waves) in July and August. After September, the island starts emptying out to leave behind a clutch of residents you can count in the thousands.

If you’re visiting for other reasons than the beach, Spring (April and May) is a beautiful time on Andros, with wildflowers colouring verdant valley landscapes, and herbs that scent the air. Ferries to Andros operate year-round.

Nov 25, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

The Best Family-Friendly Beaches in Kefalonia

by Lindsay Aug 11, 2022

written by Lindsay

Boasting its own share of insta-famous pinup beaches, Kefalonia is blessed. They’re not entirely out of reach for families either. With 254 kilometers of coastline, to where should you head after heroically packing the kids and their floats into the car? In our search for shores both fabulous and friendly, we share our favourite bits of sand and sea when in the company of first swimmers.

PETANI

Best for: drama, waves included.

If you’re pining for Myrtos-like spectacle, but hoping for something a little friendlier (the waves at Myrtos can be fiesty), Petani is perfect. To start with, there’s the “sand” – of a special grain-size that is more of a cross between pebbles and sand. It’s the best type of sand, we think – neither painful for feet, nor wanting to stick all over wet bodies. Then, there’s the boat rental shack where we rented shaded pedal boats for €25 an hour – a welcome opportunity to escape the searing sun while exploring rockscapes between dips in secret corners. The only downside of Petani for little ones is that the seabed gets deep a little too quickly, and the water, which can be wavy. Check the wind direction on an app like Windy for calm days. Otherwise, the sheltered beach at Port Atheras is a 25-minute drive away as a backup destination. “Organised” (as they say in Greece) with sunbeds and parasols, Petani comes complete with two taverns on Petani and a bar. It’s also easy for little legs to get to, with parking located directly behind.

PORT ATHERAS

Best for: when food is as much a priority as swimming. Or on especially wavy Petani days.

Shallow, sheltered, calm, and perfect for tots, this is a quintessential family beach. Rainbow unicorns drift in the sparkling shallow, while a scattering of families picnic under their umbrellas. Unorganised, you will have to make your own arrangements for shade, or take a dip after a late lunch at Drosos seafood tavern just behind. It’s the best part of the beach, serving the most delicious meal we had on the trip. Gialos taverna higher up overlooking the bay is an alternative dining option.

MEGALI AMMOS

Best for: late afternoons and sunsets, and as an alternative to Platis Gialos.

A quiet stretch of golden sand with clear and shallow waters, surfer-cool Tortuga bar-shack stands nonchalantly at its entrance to greet arrivals. Draped with curtains that add a cozy hint of boho softness to its white and black set, they mix a good welcome cocktail. A small sprawl of sunbeds huddle around the bar, but the beach is mostly free. Next to the airport, watch planes land and take off periodically. Parking is not difficult to find along the road right behind.

PLATIS GIALOS

Best for: clear blue waters and the best sandy shore, but only in low season.

Popular Platis Gialos appeals with the magnetic draw of fine white sand and clear blue waters. But it’s a little too popular. The consolation – resident bar Costa Costa is surprising tasteful and well-organised with cleaner-than-usual toilets and showers. Generously spaced out sunbeds tuck under straw umbrellas, and upbeat, but still relaxing music plays gently in the background. At € 25 per pair (prices vary depending on the time of the season), it’s more expensive than on most other parts of the island. There’s a small furniture free zone for your own set-up if you’ve come equipped. Parking is happily shaded under a little forest of pine-trees on the uphill climb from the beach.

AGIOS THOMAS

Best for: a sparkling swim in a idyllic cove (or just coffee by the sea)

A tiny arc of pearly white sand lapped over by pristine turquoise waters, Agios Thomas is postcard-perfect. In its smallness, it’s unorganised. It does, however, have the benefits of a tavern (Galina offers a small but commendable menu) and Tratamento cafe-restaurant (more the former) overlooking its waters. A hotspot in a quiet village that gets crowded quickly, and where parking gets interesting on the narrow way down to the beach, it’s best visited in low season or early in the morning.

LOURDATA

Best for: For early morning swims and seaside accommodation

A little seaside village gaining upscale attention, Lourdata has an ethereal beauty when its waters are calm. When we visited in the late afternoon and evening as the wind picked up, it was unimpressive. But on a quiet, still morning, this is heaven. A good option if you’re looking for somewhere where the village and beach are the same thing. With tavernas and cafes backing the beach and parking right behind, it’s also especially convenient.

Aug 11, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

Is Sifnos the Best Greek Island for Young Families?

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022

written by Lindsay

Dainty, delicious, and dazzling, Sifnos is an unassuming delight with a hint of posh. In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays.

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its addictive village charm.

But Sifnos measures a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it as impressive as some reviews suggest?

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a slow rhythm of island life even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough.

*The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.*

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Blanketed in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with small pensions, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up a great cocktail). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

Luminescence at Platis Gialos beach
Omega3 Fish and Wine Bar – fine dining, if manage what to do with accompanying kids.
Our usual bakery stop behind the mini mart next to Omega3. Go early – a lot runs out by noon
Lost bay beach bar in Platis Gialos – all we could want in cocktails by the sea

We stayed on the far left end, the beach just steps from our patio. A few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, we took a bleary-eyed walk to Palmira for a wake-up brew. To Steki a few doors down will deliver a traditional, hearty lunch that is exemplary of Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 nearby, you might find yourself having dinner on a communal high-standing table with Tom Hanks a few stools down . Plate after plate, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

*A modest playground by the sea at Platis Gialos*.

The mini market next to Omega3 took care of most of our practical needs – freshly baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit to snack on, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb.

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free, bounded by towering mountains on each side, and disturbed by a portside buzz reverberating from the main road that runs through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

*The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares*.

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne sands and aquamarine waters of Koufonissia and Naxos, the island’s muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. And while small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts saunter along with fitted shirts and cropped pants. It’s a refined scene of understated glamour.

As with most Greek mountain villages with many steps to wrestle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are also the best time to visit to avoid the summer heat (most shops and cafes close anyways from around 2pm to 6pm). In Greece, we find that long, late naps for the kids work better to keep up with village children dashing around squares and playgrounds that spring to life on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Drive through its terraced mountainous terrain and you will see how it has smartly cultivated its fertile lands to fill the handmade kleftiko pots that arrive on your taverna table. It’s also home to Greece’s first celebrity chef. Could a bad meal not be had in this culinary capital? And how sublime is the best, really?

Beyond its embellished reputation and romantic write-ups of sage and thyme scented air, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and exceptional restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands. So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Where we were initiated into the island’s sacred recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful was Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a playground of sandy shores lies just below.

*To Steki for traditional Sifnian dishes*.

— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a good lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos, the ferry boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can first fly into Milos (a 40-minute ride away on a high-speed ferry) for the perfect island pairing. More island-pairing itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, you might be in for a surprise if you go a little too early in Spring (when businesses start to open), or too late in Autumn (when the island empties out). The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment

Cyclades

Paros is Greece’s Latest ‘It’ Island. It’s Also Great with Kids.

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, why do tourists pine after Greece’s pretty girl next door?

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easy to access.

She’s also delicately balanced. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage.

Like its translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence, Paros’ shine is understated, but brilliant. It might lack the drama of some big hitting neighbours (Santorini, Mykonos and Milos), but its shimmer is steadily pulling-in the crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa, the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene slice of a seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands. And wherever you pick, you shouldn’t be far from village conveniences like mini markets, bakeries and tavernas.

— PARIKIA —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where you will arrive if you’re travelling by ferry. Not particularly charming at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, colourful walkways are scattered with the unexpected remains of an intriguing past. Somewhere within this tangle of streets is Symposium – an idyllic coffee and crepe stop with a raised platform from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenience for families. Within walking range is Livadia beach, backed by cafe-bars that have furnished its shores with sunbeds and parasols for easy dips with baby. Meanwhile, parents can take turns at beach volleyball in front of the Paros Nautical Club. Looking for a dreamier splash? Child-friendly Marcelo is a 7-minute drive (or a 5-minute boat taxi trip from the port) the bay after, with shallow, sandy shores and aquamarine waters.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks that totter along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques, slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive with the setting sun. Bathed in pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. All very inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge. For a more relaxed dining experience, head to Thalami in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas – dine with a view of Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the right boxes for families. Anchoring the village beach is a tree-shaded playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade starts. It quickly became customary for us to whisk away a custard-filled bougatsa from Sophie’s to enjoy on a playground bench as the kids scampered and socialised.

The promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) offers a complete selection of eateries, taking you from breakfast to seafood taverna dinner (To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals). No energy for restaurant dining? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for takeaway packets of Italian vegetarian (e.g. eggplant lasagne) to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. A restaurant you can take home is always easier after long days on the beach.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

Paros’ beach scene is delightfully family-friendly. With a swimmable coastline encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), lunar-like bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beache (Kalogeros) for healing mud baths.

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

So which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all you might envision from a tourist-savvy Greek island is available. And there’s more: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the gardens of a butterfly haven (with a café and playground) watered by natural springs, and drop into an evening watercolouring class in Parikia while mom slips off into the shops. If she can add a reformer pilates class (a number of options) or a game of tennis to the itinerary, it all starts to sound pretty irresistible.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are villages to seek out pit-stops for ice cream on tap. The Cyclades charms with captivating walks through all-white villages cloaked in bougainvillea bushes. In the less-trodden villages like Lefkes (the old capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), you can enjoy leisurely strolls without the kids bumping into too many people.

*Lovely Lefkes village in Paros’ mountainous interior with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by beautiful neighbours. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is just a 10-minute journey by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely as well (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

Greece is replete with alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of the kind of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets holiday with kids, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for the lazier among us.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

— chora (main town) —

The Greek “Chora” is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

— pLAKA —

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we avoid the Chora. As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, cluttered by one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d advise staying clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a stylish selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Admittedly, this is not for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but I was lured by the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato on repeat. A few doors down is Yazoo – polished, standing out with prettily plated, creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, and none of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an aquatic adventurer’s joy. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s south beach – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a short slice of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is unobscured by rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment is settled at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach. Happily, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats, shades, and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades are filled with interesting finds. There’s Valindras distillery, the oldest in Naxos producing the island’s famed citron liquer. Era, a jam making workshop, specialises in Greece’s famous “spoon sweets” (syrupy fruit preserves). The highlight for us is Fish and Olive – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by a very talented Katharina Bolesch, then embellished with ethereal fish motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt, these are souvenirs to treasure.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and their friends. Fill with water and blow to produce a delightful twittering sound, still pleasant on the ears even after the hundredth time.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Naxos old town, Greece — *Old town walks*.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for an idyllic sunset view. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

If you snag a chance to continue the night with cocktails and pretend to be cool again, move onto the harbourside veranda of 520 Bar and Restaurant. We had managed to leave baby with yiayia (Greek for grandma) on this occasion, which may have helped the oddly perfect progression of the evening.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee scampering kids as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Stellar such spots in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable here. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites and succulent seafood.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from its beachfront tables is a bit of magic. Paradiso has a wide selection of “cooked food”. A term that confused me initially, my Greek husband clarified that it refers to the type of food mom would cook at home. Perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds, fussy little eaters can survey the spread of ready-made (and quick to serve) options on a buffet-like display before making their selection.

Paradiso Restaurant Beachfront — *Beachside dining at Paradiso*.

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, Naxos doesn’t get unbearably busy in general, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can also retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this tiny Cycladic dream.

Last updated 27 June 2023

(Pano or Ano) Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, some very good tavernas, comfortable aparthotels, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy Airbnbs have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s highlight? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island, an on-call taxi service stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So even at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa, and villa to beach. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half-an-hour from 8am to 8pm Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora, using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow through the Cyclades in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, the family tote is stuffed with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

All the island’s six beaches are blissfully sunbed free, or “unorganised” as they say in Greece. Be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes finished with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and a scattering oversized terracotta pots imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Aside from tavernas both updated and traditional and the mandatory souvlaki hole-in-the-wall (a very good one), you will also find an artisanal gelateria, a loukoumades shop (Greek-style doughnuts) diagonally opposite, and newcomer Ca Chi Ca, introducing on-trend street food like bao buns and steak burgers with sublime cocktails. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like a splash in the artic. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach on Greek islands, and for making a smaller dent on budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, it’s located opposite Naxos (with an airport) just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, it’s a 5-hour journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port. While the journey is long, the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride compared with ferries with airplane-style seating.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Car: We took our car on the ferry boat.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment