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Cyclades

Island group in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece, uniquely characterised by simple yet striking blue and white architecture.

Cyclades

Paros is Greece’s Latest ‘It’ Island. It’s Also Great with Kids.

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, why do tourists pine after Greece’s pretty girl next door?

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easy to access.

She’s also delicately balanced. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage.

Like its translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence, Paros’ shine is understated, but brilliant. It might lack the drama of some big hitting neighbours (Santorini, Mykonos and Milos), but its shimmer is steadily pulling-in the crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa, the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene slice of a seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands. And wherever you pick, you shouldn’t be far from village conveniences like mini markets, bakeries and tavernas.

— PARIKIA —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where you will arrive if you’re travelling by ferry. Not particularly charming at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, colourful walkways are scattered with the unexpected remains of an intriguing past. Somewhere within this tangle of streets is Symposium – an idyllic coffee and crepe stop with a raised platform from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenience for families. Within walking range is Livadia beach, backed by cafe-bars that have furnished its shores with sunbeds and parasols for easy dips with baby. Meanwhile, parents can take turns at beach volleyball in front of the Paros Nautical Club. Looking for a dreamier splash? Child-friendly Marcelo is a 7-minute drive (or a 5-minute boat taxi trip from the port) the bay after, with shallow, sandy shores and aquamarine waters.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks that totter along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques, slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive with the setting sun. Bathed in pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. All very inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge. For a more relaxed dining experience, head to Thalami in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas – dine with a view of Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the right boxes for families. Anchoring the village beach is a tree-shaded playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade starts. It quickly became customary for us to whisk away a custard-filled bougatsa from Sophie’s to enjoy on a playground bench as the kids scampered and socialised.

The promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) offers a complete selection of eateries, taking you from breakfast to seafood taverna dinner (To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals). No energy for restaurant dining? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for takeaway packets of Italian vegetarian (e.g. eggplant lasagne) to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. A restaurant you can take home is always easier after long days on the beach.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

Paros’ beach scene is delightfully family-friendly. With a swimmable coastline encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), lunar-like bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beache (Kalogeros) for healing mud baths.

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

So which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all you might envision from a tourist-savvy Greek island is available. And there’s more: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the gardens of a butterfly haven (with a café and playground) watered by natural springs, and drop into an evening watercolouring class in Parikia while mom slips off into the shops. If she can add a reformer pilates class (a number of options) or a game of tennis to the itinerary, it all starts to sound pretty irresistible.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are villages to seek out pit-stops for ice cream on tap. The Cyclades charms with captivating walks through all-white villages cloaked in bougainvillea bushes. In the less-trodden villages like Lefkes (the old capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), you can enjoy leisurely strolls without the kids bumping into too many people.

*Lovely Lefkes village in Paros’ mountainous interior with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by beautiful neighbours. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is just a 10-minute journey by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely as well (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

Greece is replete with alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of the kind of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets holiday with kids, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for the lazier among us.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

— chora (main town) —

The Greek “Chora” is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

— pLAKA —

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we avoid the Chora. As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, cluttered by one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d advise staying clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a stylish selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Admittedly, this is not for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but I was lured by the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato on repeat. A few doors down is Yazoo – polished, standing out with prettily plated, creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, and none of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an aquatic adventurer’s joy. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s south beach – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a short slice of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is unobscured by rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment is settled at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach. Happily, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats, shades, and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades are filled with interesting finds. There’s Valindras distillery, the oldest in Naxos producing the island’s famed citron liquer. Era, a jam making workshop, specialises in Greece’s famous “spoon sweets” (syrupy fruit preserves). The highlight for us is Fish and Olive – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by a very talented Katharina Bolesch, then embellished with ethereal fish motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt, these are souvenirs to treasure.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and their friends. Fill with water and blow to produce a delightful twittering sound, still pleasant on the ears even after the hundredth time.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Naxos old town, Greece — *Old town walks*.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for an idyllic sunset view. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

If you snag a chance to continue the night with cocktails and pretend to be cool again, move onto the harbourside veranda of 520 Bar and Restaurant. We had managed to leave baby with yiayia (Greek for grandma) on this occasion, which may have helped the oddly perfect progression of the evening.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee scampering kids as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Stellar such spots in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable here. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites and succulent seafood.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from its beachfront tables is a bit of magic. Paradiso has a wide selection of “cooked food”. A term that confused me initially, my Greek husband clarified that it refers to the type of food mom would cook at home. Perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds, fussy little eaters can survey the spread of ready-made (and quick to serve) options on a buffet-like display before making their selection.

Paradiso Restaurant Beachfront — *Beachside dining at Paradiso*.

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, Naxos doesn’t get unbearably busy in general, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can also retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper. At once relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal fascination, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would look for accommodation options in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the more recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinks, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — *Palaios – a perfect place to settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.*

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Quieter Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. And nestled in a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea is 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens set below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas, proximity to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, and a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, has only a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to get to. It may also be missing the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas. Operators have come and gone, and for 2024, visitors will have to throw their towels down on the beach. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to the island with its fantastical lunar landscape of wind and wave-scuplted tuff. Not a beach proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said that you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, even serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming claypot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, and not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum on each trip to Milos with the girls. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a well-curated background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a comprehensive display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place to bring home a souvenir for fellow crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *The sand kitchen of Sirocco.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the main tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus port in Athens will get you there in three-and-a-half hours. It’s a good way to travel if you are tempted to extend your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this tiny Cycladic dream.

Last updated 27 June 2023

(Pano or Ano) Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, some very good tavernas, comfortable aparthotels, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy Airbnbs have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s highlight? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island, an on-call taxi service stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So even at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa, and villa to beach. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half-an-hour from 8am to 8pm Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora, using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow through the Cyclades in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, the family tote is stuffed with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

All the island’s six beaches are blissfully sunbed free, or “unorganised” as they say in Greece. Be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes finished with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and a scattering oversized terracotta pots imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Aside from tavernas both updated and traditional and the mandatory souvlaki hole-in-the-wall (a very good one), you will also find an artisanal gelateria, a loukoumades shop (Greek-style doughnuts) diagonally opposite, and newcomer Ca Chi Ca, introducing on-trend street food like bao buns and steak burgers with sublime cocktails. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like a splash in the artic. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach on Greek islands, and for making a smaller dent on budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, it’s located opposite Naxos (with an airport) just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, it’s a 5-hour journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port. While the journey is long, the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride compared with ferries with airplane-style seating.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Car: We took our car on the ferry boat.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Must-See Santorini: The Family Edit

by Lindsay Dec 27, 2019

written by Lindsay

Home to celestial villages with cosmopolitan flair, Greece’s Pompeii that is Akrotiri, unique gastronomy, and viticulture shaped by its volcanic history, we are still happy to brave the hordes (even with kidlets in company) to see astonishing Santorini.

With pearly-white villages that float atop the inner rim of a submerged caldera, Santorini’s sugar-cube quarters shine in the blaze of the Greek sun, glow orange and pink at sunset, and light up like a fairyland at night. From its calamitous volcanic history, a unique beauty has emerged to make the island a truly special place.

*Caldera village views. Image credit: Photo by Alex Azabache.*

Greece’s most visited island attraction draws over two million visitors a year. Overbearingly crowded in the giddying heat of its searing summers, can it still be enjoyed with family?

Returning on our second trip with an eight-month-old, we think so. Timed wisely, with the right accommodation, carefully selected activities, a car, and expectations managed, it might even top the list of family adventures to remember.

WHERE TO STAY

The caldera’s cliffhanging village string of Fira, Imerovigli, and Oia is where to stay for the views the island is famous for. This is also where the multitudes descend to roam the narrow cobblestone streets of the island’s pin-up settlements. Flanked by colourful boutiques, art galleries, hip cafés, and bustling tavernas, while charming, these bumpy streets are crossed by stairs at almost every turn. Bring your baby carrier and leave the stroller behind.

If you’ve decided on these parts, select your location carefully. Fira, the capital and center of it all, is chaotic. Imerovigli a little better. And elegant Oia, with marble-paved streets and a cluster of luxury design hotels, the best of the three village options, we think.

Sunset at Oia village, Santorini Greece — *Oia’s legendary sunsets.*

It’s also a good idea to research your hotel thoroughly. Especially with first walkers in hand. Many of the caldera’s cave-type Cycladic dwellings are not designed with kids in mind. Stairwells are narrow, steep, and often without handrails, while low-slung balconies look out into jaw-dropping vistas.

We stayed in Aerie House in Oia. Spacious enough for the family with a living room and kitchen for the endless meal preparation requirements of a toddler, it also came without the worry of otherwise covetable private pools that continue into the horizon. Set a nominal flight of stairs away from the main street so we could dodge the crowds, it’s still attractively close to all the action when you want. Local treasure Atlantis Books (including a children’s section) is also just a minute’s walk away.

What to do in the area? A scenic 10-kilometre hiking trail skirting the cliff’s edge takes you from Fira to Oia. Passing through Firostefani and Imerovigli, it’s an enjoyable way to explore the island with kids over four. If you only manage a walk to Firostefani, stop by nondescript Aktaion with tables outside for sumptuous sea views. A cozy, home-like family-run restaurant since 1922, it surprises with a modern spin on local flavours. Also nearby is Vanilla with a rooftop garden and broader menu options including child-pleasing pastas and pizzas. If you make it to Oia, settle into Melitini’s rooftop terrace for medley of meze (Greek tapas).

ESCAPE THE CROWDS: SOUTHERN SEASIDE VILLAGES

While Santorini is all about its mesmerising clifftop vistas, staying in its southern beach strip provides some relief from a daily clash with tourist hordes. Yes, you will still have to join cars and buses vying for road space and parking to visit the island’s main villages of interest. But if the convenience of water-frolicking fun at your doorstep sounds additionally appealing, look to the sandy beaches of Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari. All “organised”, as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas furnished by beachfront cafés and tavernas, it’s a family-friendly set-up. The black sand is an added novelty, but burns in the sun, so bring water shoes.

Perissa beach Santorini Greece — *Instead of blue and white, the black sands of Perissa are typical of the island’s beaches.*

As a volcanic island, Santorini doesn’t have the idyllic white sands and aquamarine waters you might idealise. Skip onto neighbouring islands like Naxos or Mykonos for that. And while beaches may not the highlight here, Vlychada is notably impressive backed by sculptural pumice rock cliffs. It’s also home to Theros Wave Bar and restaurant on a semi-secluded bit of shore. Providing all the comforts for elevated beach lounging, sit back with a cocktail and savour stunning scenery alongside atmospheric tunes.

You might hear of the Red Beach at some point, with red sand. Harder to reach, it requires a short but dubious trek which we do not recommend if you are with young children. For us, the Red Beach is good for a quick look rather than to spend an afternoon in.

The Red Beach, Santorini Greece — *The Red beach – over-hyped and hard to reach with young ones.*

DINING WITH KIDS

Finding a restaurant that didn’t make my Greek husband feel like prey in a tourist trap was challenging, but Taverna Katina stood out. For seafood in general, and lobster spaghetti in particular. Laid-back, authentic, and with sufficient toddling space in-between tables, it sits on the waters of Amoudi Bay below the red cliffs of Oia.

Seafood Taverna Katina, Amoudi Bay (Oia), Santorini Greece — *Seafood Taverna Katina at Amoudi bay, below Oia.*

In general, dining within the narrow walls of Santorini’s famed villages can be a little too cozy for bouncing balls of energy. Take a break from the village bustle and retreat to rolling vineyards of acclaimed wineries like Domaine Sigalas and Venesantos for meals paired with top-rated tipples, and where everyone can have their bit of fun.

PREHISTORIC TREASURES & ADVENTURES

When the afternoon sun overpowers, escape into the sheltered (most archaeological sites in Greece are not) and extraordinary Bronze Age city of Akrotiri. Like Pompeii, its remains were buried and preserved by ash after a volcanic eruption in the 16th century B.C. . Still an active archaeological site, it has been thoughtfully constructed with wide walkways and viewing platforms that take you directly above the multi-story buildings and through the dusty streets of the ancient settlement. Hiring a guide when visiting key archaeological sites in Greece is always worthwhile. Later, break for seafood at The Dolphins taverna close by, and right by the water.

The covered archaeological site of prehistoric Akrotiri is best visited with a guide.
Dolphin seafood restaurant in Akrotiri, next to the Red Beach.
Traditional seafood dining at Dolphin Taverna

WHEN TO VISIT

Timing is everything for enjoying Santorini. High season stretches from June to September. Go in the peak of summer (July and August) and you’re likely to get smothered in tourist hordes crammed into tight alleyways. In October and November, the crowds ease off its strained infrastructure (road network included). The sea might be a tad chilly for swimming, but the black sand beaches of Santorini are not known for spectacular swims anyways. So if this doesn’t bother you, these late autumn and early spring months are the best times to visit.

With its mild Mediterranean climate, winter travel is rising in popularity. Giving you a glimpse into the hypnotic magic of the island, here you will have its sunsets all to yourself. Holidays in December, January and February (when the first cruise ships start arriving), are, however, at risk of rain. A selection of hotels will be open, along with a few restaurants catering to locals, and all will be happily more affordable.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Santorini in 45 minutes from Athens. With a small and recently refurbished international airport, you can also fly in from London and other major European cities in summer.

The high-speed ferries from Pireaus or Rafina ports in Athens otherwise take five to seven hours. The island’s ferry port also connects you with other stunning near neighbours like Folegandros, Ios, Naxos and more Cycladic destinations.

For island hopping inspiration from Santorini, refer to our article with suggestions on island pairings.

Getting There:
- Flights from Athens Airport: 55 minutes
- High-speed fFerry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours 35 minutes. Note: the Santorini Athinios port is notoriously busy. It’s better to fly into the island if you are crowd averse.
Where We Stayed: Aerie House, Oia
Eat:
- Aktaion (Firostefani)
- Melitini Greek Tapas (Oia)
- Taverna Seafood Katina (Amoundi Bay)
See:
- Akrotiri Archaeological Site
Shop:
- AK Art Gallery (Fira and Oia)
- Mati Gallery (Fira)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Vassilopoulos (refer to map below) – our go-to supermarket on the islands. Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site: https://www.santorini.gr

Dec 27, 2019 0 comment

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