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Family Drives Through North Evia – Coastal Hideaways, Sizzling Seafood and Healing Spas

by Lindsay Dec 17, 2021

written by Lindsay

What’s left of the once forested Eden of North Evia after the wildfires of 2021? An island of slow, serene, and simple pleasures that is our second home, we share the attractions that remain to be enjoyed.

Last updated 6 June 2024

The 2021 inferno that engulfed North Evia was the biggest Greece has ever seen. Once a lush mountainscape of pine, oak, fir, and olive trees, 51,000 hectares of primary forest went up in flames in eight days. Along with the livelihoods of resin collectors, bee keepers, olive oil producers, and other agribusinesses.

Ours was a farm of almond trees. So heavy with fruit their branches touched the ground. After seven years of waiting for them to reach maturity, they were ready to return their first yield. But rather than the bountiful harvest anticipated, we walked through scorched rows of skeletons scavenging for nut hulls that looked salvageable.

We planned to take the girls for their first forest walk through Drymonas and its waterfalls at the start of the summer. But all changed within a week. There is little left of its magic for this generation to enjoy. Some analysts say that 40,000 hectares of Evian land will not return to its previous state.

The drive from Mantoudi to Agia Anna — *What remains of once scenic drives from Mantoudi to Agia Anna after the wildfires*

WHY NORTH EVIA?

Various reasons may continue to bring you to North Evia: It’s still a gateway to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos) from Mantoudi’s port, the road to which was untouched by the fires. Or perhaps you are on a healing pilgrimage to Prokopi, also unharmed after a freak rainfall event occurred uncannily after believers gathered at its church to intercede for a miracle. Agia Anna may have lost its trees, but its endless sea views are still a scene of beauty. And then there’s Edipsos – with its thermal springs and a renowned spa hotel – which escaped unscathed.

FIRST STOP: CHALKIDA

Gateway to Evia, Chalkida is scenic and petite. Just sizable enough to support basic city conveniences, like one Zara outlet and a handful of pilates studios, but still small enough to maintain an intimate village vibe.

Built around the Gulf of Evia, a waterside promenade lined with cafes-bars and restaurants is perfect for family strolls and kiddie scoots. Continue towards the old bridge that connects the mainland with the island, and you will find Asteria. An expansive outdoor waterfront bar and restaurant that caters to little ones, its family appeal include a fenced playground positioned within clear view of a section of dining tables. If we needed accommodation in Chalkida, we’d look between this part of the promenade and the center, or one of the seafront Airbnbs in Alykes.

Chalkida’s waterfront promenade.
Playground by the sea near Asterias in Chalkida

Alykes is Chalkida’s summer highlight for us – a child-friendly beach only the locals seem to know about. With clear blue waters that lap over soft golden sand, it’s impressive for these parts (Evia’s beaches, for me, are generally not to shout about, and usually of the darker variety). Furnished with an assembly of cafe-bars for every taste, Daluz at the far right corner (as you face the sea) is our favourite with wood framed sunbeds, breezy tunes, and a gently sloping seabed clear of rocks.

*Daluz beach bar on Alykes in Chalkida – one of the most child-friendly beaches in the region*

THE ROAD TO MANTOUDI – GATEWAY TO THE SPORADES

After exiting Chalkida, the drive north twists through leafy highlands. 40 minutes of dizzying turns later, the road straightens out and rewards with a forest fairytale-like drive alongside Kireas river running parallel.

Prokopi is the first village of interest you will meet, where many visit for the hope of healing at the church of one of Eastern Orthodoxy’s great saints, John the Russian. Tourist-geared shops stocked with Evian pine honey and other “traditional products” border its square, anchored by the church.

Prokopi village square and the Church of Saint John the Russian, North Evia — *Prokopi village square with the Church of Saint John the Russian in the background*

Continue towards Mantoudi and keep an eye out for a coffee stand with orange signage reading “Alexiou’s loukoumades” opposite the riverbank. It might be in the middle of nowhere, but what lies behind is a willow tree-dappled estate crossed with mini bridges and a duck pond. Our special place when we’re in the village, the atmospheric café-taverna garden grounds provides hours of entertainment for little ones. Famed for their loukoumades, these doughnut-like balls of bliss are a mandatory part of the experience. Fluffy on the inside, with a thin golden crisp on the outside, a thick drizzle of home-harvested honey (or chocolate, or both) completes the salivating decadence.

*On the way to Mantoudi, Alexiou’s is a special café stop with expansive garden grounds*

Mantoudi’s village center is a 10-minute drive from here. Once a proud regional center, magnesite mining factories used to drive the local economy. Now, like many Greek villages, it continually diminishes in size and feels somewhat forlorn for the lack of upgrades. While not quite for sightseeing, it still harbours some exceptional stops: Stamatis – a first-class ouzerie serving mezze plates of fresh shellfish (also try the breaded shrimp pane and fried peppers) in the corner of the main square, and a sizzling Souvlaki shop owned by the butcher next to it. On the village’s edge you will also find Legola-nd where the girls take trips into the forests and fields of Mantoudi on horseback with owner Thanassis.

Horseriding in Legoland Mandoudi, North Evia, Greece — *Horserding in Mantoudi*

Kimasi beach and port, a five-minute drive from its center, is where you can catch summer ferries to the Sporades. A high-speed ferry service whisks tourists to exotic Alonissos marine park in an impressive 40 minutes. They’ve even included new routes to Thessaloniki and Crete.

Kimasi Beach and Port in Mandoudi — *Kimasi beach and port – gateway to the Sporades*

AGIA ANNA – A FAMILY-FRIENDLY COASTAL RETREAT

Our preferred swimming beach in North Evia is where yiayia (Grandma) is from. A 20-minute drive from Mantoudi, Agia Anna is home to Evia’s longest beach. A dark and brooding type beauty, it’s pebbly on the “organised” end (i.e. with sunbeds and food service) with cafes and taverns that line a boardwalk, and sandy on the wilder end where four-star Thalatta and two camping sites call home. A relative tourist hotspot compared with other villages in the area, all is still serene and unadulterated by development.

While Agia Anna was not spared from the fires, it escaped total devastation. We’re always at Remetzo, a Mulberry tree shaded cafe-bar with zen-inducing sea views. It’s the oasis we shelter under for lattes and homemade banoffee in summer. There’s also a renovated patch of playground a few doors down in the village square.

Agia Anna has given us some of our most relaxed family dining experiences. The girls spend endless hours chasing cats and running around bushes, leaving us to enjoy drawn-out dinners with little disturbance. The best taverna is Trata for seafood, where Christos hauls in your meals on his fishing boat. Maistrali is another preferred hangout with a prime beachfront position. Some menu tips: when in these parts, instead of fried calamari order thrapsalo – distinctly more tender and tasty. And forget lobster. Go for crayfish – sublimely sweet and delicately succulent. The region is also famed for its specialty shellfish like gialisteres, chténia scallops, and razor clams.

Maistrali Tavern Agia Anna, North Evia — *Seafront seafood dining at Maistrali*

Stylish-sleek Thalatta hotel brought a surprise bit of ritz when it first arrived on the sleepy village scene. A seaside destination in itself, they are fitted out with family-sized rooms (just be careful of stairs with toddlers), airy restaurants, and a rave-worthy kids club. Spared from the blaze, it re-opened for business this summer. Its surrounding forests, however, were not. Ranch-Eros, an animal welfare association that also offers horse riding services, has been left to rebuild. Look up their website to contribute to the effort.

COASTAL DRIVES, SEASIDE TOWNS & THERMAL SPRINGS

A once especially scenic seaside road runs from Limni to Rovies and Edipsos in the northeast. And while the fires consumed Limni and Rovies, it self-extinguished in Ilia before reaching the thermal spring spa town and port of Edipsos.

Limni seaside village
The still, glassy waters of Limni.

Built on the wealth of ship captains, seaside Limni is arguably the prettiest village in North Evia with a quintessentially Greek island feel. Burnt all the way down to the village’s edge, look towards the sea and you won’t notice its blackened perimeter. The sea is still (Limni means “lake” in Greek), alive with fish below, ducks afloat on its surface, and seagulls overhead. A scattering of trendy and traditional cafes and tavernas line the scenic waterfront so you can soak in its idyllic views as the kids feed the ducks.

Limni's beach — *Family-friendly Kochyli beach in Limni is a 3-minute drive from its center*

A two-minute drive away and you will find Kochyli where we head to for swims when Agia Anna is too wavy for an enjoyable time with tots. Calm and washed over by crystalline waters, the seabed, however, gets steep quickly. Of the three beach bars on this pebbly stretch, we gravitate towards Kochyli‘s super-sized umbrellas. Easily providing shade for a family of four, watch the kids dive-bombing off a mini-pier as you settle under and in the surrounds of atmospheric tunes.

If you’re looking for somewhere you can combine a swim with lunch or dinner plans, drop your google map pin at Paralia one beach down in Rovies. Complete with a beach bar, umbrellas, sunbeds, and a great seaside taverna with excellent bifteki (beef patties to please the fussiest of kids), there’s even a little playground next to it (albeit one that’s a bit run-down). And if you’re considering staying in these parts, boutique resorts Elimnion and Eleonas are on its hillside. Eleonas is a 35-hectare organic farm and guest house set in the midst of 100-year old olive groves. Here, you can participate in harvests, pick herbs, gather wildflowers, hike, cycle, or just be still. While their trees were ravaged by the fires, they hope for rebirth. You can still visit the hotel and its garden rounds which escaped the epic barbeque.

The waters in Rovies are calm, clear and very tranquil.
The free camping area, with Paralia Pine and Sand in the background.

A 30-minute drive from Rovies is North Evia’s most famous draw. The thermal springs of Edipsos drew all from Aristotle and Marcus Aurelius to Winston Churchill by the curative powers of its rich mineral content. A stately 19th century Thermae Sylla Wellness Hotel dominates the small spa town. Natural wells fill its pools daily with enriching waters saturated with metals and chemicals. While its indoor pool is only for guests over 15, infants and young children can enjoy it’s outdoor pool with sea water mixed into its spring waters. If you’re not a hotel guest, you can still enjoy the area’s therapeutic waters in the beach fronting the hotel where spring waters spill into the sea.

FROM EDIPSOS, TO OMPHALOS

Also a small port, from Edipsos you can cross over by ferry (which also transports cars) to the mainland port of Arkitsa in 45 minutes. Why? Because in another hour-and-a-half by car you can find your way to omphalos – the center of the ancient world. Kings, warriors and other supplicants similarly journeyed here seeking guidance from the oracle of Delphi at the Temple of Apollo. Carved into the towering rocks of Mount Parnassus (also a winter ski destination), the temple ruins continue to elicit wonderment. Best visited with a guide, walk its expansive grounds in the cooler months of spring and autumn.

GETTING THERE

Connected to the mainland by bridge, Evia is easy to get to. Chalkida (it’s capital) is a good day trip destination from Athens in under an hour’s drive. It’s also served by small ferry ports in Mantoudi, Edipsos, Agiokampos in the north, Kymi in central Evia, and Marmari and Nea Stira down south. There is no airport on the island.

Dec 17, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

Small and Stunning: Serifos with Kids

by Lindsay Sep 29, 2021

written by Lindsay

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Japanese monastery, devotees seek Zen in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected transplant of a laudable contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

*On the road to Ganema, boutique design hotels with expansive ocean views dot the cliff’s edge.*

Is Serifos family-friendly? While it might not have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros, it’s certainly not family-unfriendly. There are some “organised” beaches (as they say in Greece) with beach bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds. And while the really special ones are not organised, they offer other child-friendly desirables like tavernas on the beach. You will also find a scattering of covetable seafront hotels and villas that make daily beach trips with little legs a breeze.

Beach revelries aside, there’s not heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere, and in perfectly-formed Serifos, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port might seem like an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with many conveniences (mini markets, boutiques, seafront tavernas and on-trend cafés ). In addition, it has the island’s longest beach. But before booking into a property here, look into neighbouring Livadakia. Still within close proximity to Livadi’s amenities, the beach here boasts lovelier waters. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea is calm, clear, shallow, and lined with wispy mounds of tamarisk trees. You’ll also find cafés providing sunbeds and parasol comforts on its golden shores.

Beach House in Ganema, Serifos — *Ganema Beach Paradise on the left, a 50-metre walk from the beach.*

A big draw of Greece’s quieter islands for us are the intimate, boutique hideaways sitting directly on impressive arcs of sand. In Serifos, you will find such gems in Vagia and Ganema (where we stayed).

Livadakia Beach Serifos — *Livadakia beach, next to and a short walk from Livadi port.*

Alternatively, immerse yourselves in arresting views flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset by staying in Chora – Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital. With double-height steps to battle with, a boot full of luggage, and an unreliable walker in hand, this mountain village option will probably look more ideal in a few years.

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches, of the pearly-white and turquoise variety, rival the best in the Cyclades. They’re also not hard to reach. Here, we list three of the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives.

— PSILLI AMMOS —

A dreamy bay with fine white sand and aquamarine waters, petite Psilli Ammos promises a good time for small splashers. And you will be in the company of many. But it’s not organised, so we armed ourselves with umbrellas and beach chairs, prepared to plant ourselves on the shores for hours, as Greeks do.

Two tavernas (Stefanakos and Manolis) set-up shop every summer for the happy convenience of beach-goers. Finding a prized spot on the balcony of Sefanakos overlooking the Aegean, we tucked into a traditional taverna menu of rooster pasta, moussaka, pork tiganites (cubes of fried pork), and perfectly-fried fries. Post-meal, you can whisk fresh orange juice (and ice-cold vodka tonics) from the restaurant-bar to the beach as often as you like. It’s a handy set-up for everyone.

Psilli Ammos Beach, Serifos — *The famous aquamarine waters of Psilli Ammos.*

— AGIOS IOANNIS —

From Psilli Ammos, a short drive north to the next bay will reveal the similarly impressive waters of Agios Ioannis. And while the beauty of its waters are comparable to its more popular neighbour, it’s vastly less busy. Likely for the lack of tavernas or cafés on the beach. There are ten or so skimpy tamarisks to steal shade under if you go early enough. Parking is available close by so you won’t have to carry your picnic basket far.

— GANEMA —

Not an obvious top pick, Ganema has a few great things going for it: With its southerly position (along with other sheltered coves like Vagia), this is where you want to be when the northern Meltemi winds blow brutally. One kilometer long, it’s also one-part pebbly, and one-part sandy, allowing finicky children to take their pick. Little D doesn’t enjoy sand between her toes, so we headed to the pebbly side where a mini mountain stack of boulders call-out for a bit of rock scaling fun. The girls cannot resist.

My favourite thing about Ganema is Grandma’s. A family-run café with bistro chairs huddled under the generous cover of oversized tamarisks. Most of our mornings were spent here with iced chocolates and coffees while the kids built bridges with twigs, and castles with pebbles by the table. If you’re staying for lunch, Grandma’s menu is a simple, but well-executed selection of burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, and seafood classics.

Grandma's Cafe on Ganema beach — *Quiet mornings at Grandma’s before the lunch crowd arrives.*

The sandy side of Ganema saw slick new restaurant and club SAAN debuting this year. Providing umbrellas and sunbeds for rent on the beach, its bar is far busier than its restaurant, stirring up endless cocktails for thirsty beach loungers.

VILLAGE WALKS

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both small, with a handful of smart boutiques and some nightlife. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi with its mining history and historical building remnants is probably the more interesting of these.

— LIVADI —

The port village is the liveliest one, and home to a selection of seafood taverns lining the waterfront. Tis Kalis is the taverna on every local’s lips. Serving fresh-caught seafood with an artful touch, you can have your Fagri (our fish catch of choice) grilled plain to perfection, or squid ink orzo laced with fuchsia pink pomegranate seeds. In the company of fussy eaters? Toss the healthier choices aside for a fried seafood basket. We dined in the afternoon when it was less busy, but if you’re going for dinner, make reservations.

Waterfront dining at Tis Kalis seafood restaurant in Lividi port village — *Seafood by the water at Tis Kalis in Livadi.*

If you are of the normal-lunch-hour-going type, take note that most of the taverns in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 2 p.m., if they open at all for lunch), in true Greek tradition. Check opening times before you go.

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, Blue Bamboo made me blink twice when I spotted it on Google maps. Indeed, it was the real thing from Athens, and the palate refresher I needed after three weeks of Asian food deprivation. Laced with strings of fairy lights, their garden grounds twinkle festively at night. With liberal amounts of space for the kids scamper in between tables, parents here can enjoy some actual time to peacefully dine. Serving traditional Thai favourites with a twist, I was happy to visit more than thrice in our five-day trip if that didn’t seem excessive for my Greek husband.

Also good-to-know in Livadi is Indigo Bakery – nondescript on the outside, but spilling over with a pie and sweet celebration within stylised interiors. It’s the stop we make en route to destination beaches so we can stuff our bags with kolouri (sesame-sprinked doughnut-shaped bread) for the afternoon.

Best bakery in Serifos, Greece - Indigo — *Our mandatory morning stop – Indigo bakery*.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving an uphill climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. A veritable feat with strollers, bring your baby carrier instead.

If anyone needs encouragement along the ascent, there’s ice-cream at the top. “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked meat slices stuffed in pita bread along with fries) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos Grill for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

Climb all the flights of stairs towards the top, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and tavernas with tables spilling out into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious tavernas serving meze-type fare.

Agios Athanasios square in Ano (Upper) Chora at sunset.
Stop by Skaraveos for succulent souvlaki in Ano Chora.
Serifos’ neoclassical townhall.

All-day Stou Stratou is the most talked about, while Louis is your next best option if you don’t want to join the scuffle for tables at Stou Stratou. But space is tight in the square, and after one night out with the kids within the squeeze of its walls, we decided against dining there again with young children.

There’s a public parking lot near the bus station at the entrance of Ano (Upper) Chora. But as space is limited, it’s a good idea to visit early, before the sunset-seeking crowd packs in.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. But it’s also just a two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port. Sitting on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with an airport you can fly into), it takes just 20 minutes to cross over from Sifnos. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach and he has a flourishing IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.

Sep 29, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Holiday in Heaven or a Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021

written by Lindsay

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing.

But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to carve out your own little paradise on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – stunning beaches. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs. Not that I don’t appreciate the comforts that parasols and sunbeds provide. Especially as a young family with enough on our hands besides umbrellas and chairs to heave. But when an entire beach is covered in beds, there is a feeling of suffocation.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece — While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In Paraga, this is €80 of burgers and sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family that frequents the beach daily, the price tag gets pretty prohibitive for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from northern Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats:

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space in spite of a sea of parasols. A patch of sand dividing the main from the nudist section is available for free campers. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in the perfect shade of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is conveniently located right behind.

— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Infamous party girl Lindsay Lohan’s beach club takes center stage. It was surprisingly relaxed when we visited in the early afternoon, with widely spaced-out sunbeds.

— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well.

So how did we end up in Tropicana? Paradise and Super Paradise happened to be in the area where we knew we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach. We might have to deal with the madness of the island’s most famed party beach clubs, but after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed.

Tropicana was our first stop for no particular reason. It also happened to be a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend. So we parked ourselves here for the afternoon. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m.. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, the music gets louder as the sun sets – all was still bearable as it approached the time to put babies to bed.

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we stole out to the waterfront one street away with its cafes and restaurants. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot), or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece — Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys.

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos stands a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a special space worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails that lead to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting out classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. In the search for soul food that is Greek cuisine, we were served small portions of deconstructed fare by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or stopping by to break the onward journey to another island. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures are still over 20°C. If you appreciate warm swimming waters, but not the crowds, try the end of September. Spring in Greece is always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Unless you’re going to party, avoid July and August. And while winter travel is possible, take note that businesses start to close in late October.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. The newly renovated airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two and a half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

Sep 21, 2021 0 comment

Destinations

A Sweeping Survey of the Greek Isles & How to Select Yours

by Lindsay Jan 26, 2021

written by Lindsay

Last updated: Jan 2025

Where do your island dreams take you? Dark and handsome or blonde with aquamarine seas, we share some key considerations when selecting Greek islands to find your love match.

1. What’s Your Scene?

The Greek islands of Milos, Kefalonia and Evia

WHITE & BLUE

I like my islands bare and rocky. Characteristic of the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, Milos, Folegandros and other ruggedly handsome neighbours), this is where white sugar-cube villages with blue church top domes artfully blend into the stark silhouette of arid surroundings.

BLUE & GREEN

If you prefer luxuriant vegetation and tree-lined beaches to lay your mat under, try:

The Sporadic islands: Skiathos and Skopelos, both filming locations for Mama Mia! And then there is Alonissos – a secret nature reserve rich in flora and fauna, and the largest marine protected area in Europe.
The Ionian islands: A cluster of islands in the Ionian sea less famous than they should be. Receiving three times more rainfall those in the Aegean, its lands are mountainous, green and fertile. Star attractions include cosmopolitan Corfu, Lefkada with their bluer-than-blue beaches, Kefalonia, and the breathtaking Paxoi islands.
Andros: Two hours from Rafina port in Athens, Andros is a Cycladic outpost unlike its neighbours. It’s also the greenest, with hiking paths running through forested mountains dotted with waterfalls and springs. Once a maritime center, a stately Chora (an island’s capital) enchants with marble neoclassical mansions built by the shipping families that gathered.
Samothrace: Next to Thassos is the quiet birthplace of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. Bordering the coast of Turkey, this exotic boho escape is a natural wonderland. Rock pools, mineral springs, waterfalls and streams all nestle within its forested interiors.

SOMETHING IN-BETWEEN

For a bit of both, where towering rocks blend into soft dense greenery, Kefalonia and Zakynthos have that sweep-you-off-your-feet effect with striking beauty. And for more drama, Meteora, Folegandros, and Amorgos also lure with impressive and imposing landscapes.

2. Airport, or not?

Are you prepared to brave the Greek ferry system? If you would rather fly-in, take note that most Greek islands don’t have an airport. Crete and Evia aside, there are 6 main Greek island groups (Cyclades, Dodecanese, Ionion, Sporadic, Saronic, North Aegean). Apart from the Saronic island group (closest to the mainland), each of the others will have a handful of islands with a domestic or international airport. There are also plentiful road trip options if you prefer.

3. Research Your Beaches

A Greek summer staple, the island hunt for us surrounds the quest for beautiful beaches. How do you like yours? Sandy or pebbly? Furnished with human comforts, or deserted and inaccessible by car? Or if you’re not bothered by beaches at all, Santorini, Folegandros, Syros and Hydra come to mind.

THE CHILD-FRIENDLY NECESSITY

Beach hunting with kids has been whittled down to three-pronged search for shallow & still waters, sandcastle-fit shores, and sunbeds. They also should be easy to get to. The destinations with qualifying candidates are many and marvellous. Some of our family favourites include Naxos, Paros and Sifnos (without an airport).

ORGANISED & UNORGANISED?

Useful to know is the distinction between “organised” and “unorganised” beaches. In Greece, an “organised beach” is furnished with umbrellas and sunbeds. On quieter islands, you just have to be a patron of beach bar with the set-up. On busier islands, expect to pay anywhere from €5 to €25 a pair, or €40 to €80 if you’re on Mykonos.

An “unorganised” beach does not have umbrellas and sunbeds set-up. Look instead for a taverna or cantina nearby to supply food and drink .

If you are so brave to go unorganised with child and all your baby bits and bobs, a new world of options unfold:

Koufonisia and islands within the Small Cyclades (Schinoussa and Dounossa). Blessed with a string of show-stopping beaches you can enjoy in relative quietude, we packed our car in with beach gear so we could plant ourselves on Koufonisia’s glorious shores all day.
Serifos: Psilli Ammos, Agios Sosis… Serifos has 70 beaches to explore.
Elafonisos: Because two is better than one, double-sided Simos beach in Elafonisos is a road trip option nicely combined with a visit to medieval Monemvasia castle town.

4. Deserted or Developed?

Are you looking for an elemental island escape with unpaved roads and beaches unblemished? Or polished alleys leading to Louis Vuitton around the corner from YiaYia’s (grandma’s) house? For tourists easily repulsed by tourism and development, Greece has much to offer. But then there are untouched, and untouched gems you really want to visit. Alonissos, Lemnos, and Ikaria (where people live longer) are some that promise restoration for the world-weary.

You may, however, (as I do) appreciate a sushi break between taverna visits and chic island shopping. Jet set-savvy destinations like Santorini, Mykonos and Paros lie on the other end of the spectrum.

Practical-sort-of-parents seeking sufficient development to include large supermarkets and access to better-than-basic health services should pick larger islands (e.g. Crete, Corfu and Rhodos), or a mainland destination like Chalkidiki. Syros (Ermoupolis), capital of the Cyclades, is also self-sufficient with large supermarkets and a full hospital.

5. Choose Your Village

Perfect summer days in Greece end with evenings exploring villages. Cafes and kafeneios (traditional coffee houses where grandpas gather), ouzeries and bars, tavernas around vibrant village squares, the prettiest painted doors, colourful shops, churches, small museums, and possibly a castle.

Greek Villages in Symi, Rhodos and Santorini

Small or large, seaside or hilltop, Cycladic or Venetian, all have a unique allure. Cycladic villages hold a special place for me. With minimalist architecture, clean lines, white and cobalt blue contrasts, a beautiful mess of life hides behind perfectly uniform exteriors. Tourists flock to Santorini primarily to enjoy Cycladic village beauty in all its resplendence (the beaches in Santorini are not to shout about). For a purer experience of Cycladic villages without the crowds, try Sifnos.

Looking for a different village vibe? Consider Syros and Symi, with neoclassical houses that stand elegantly in a festival of colours. There’s also little but impressive Hydra, where cars are not allowed. Stone-built mountain villages like Pelion are another kind of special with a fairytale-likeness to them.

6. Find Your Perfect Hideaway

Sometimes the idyllic vacation villa determines our choice of island. Particularly when we have found a beach house steps away from pristine waters.

In Greece, we usually pick an Airbnb estate over space-starved hotel rooms and common pools for stays over 3 days. Professionally run and practically equipped (with washing machines, kitchen equipment, travel cots and high chairs), bi and tri weekly cleaning services are also common. Where to look? Seaside villages (with swimmable beaches) are an ideal set-up. Suggestions include: Plaka in Naxos, Platis Gialos in Sifnos, Livadakia in Serifos, Panormos and Skopelos, Votsi bay in Alonissos, Mylopotas in Ios, and Batsi in Andros.

Another tempting option for families are luxe beach resorts that lure with babysitting, back-to-nature kids activities, aqua parks, morning yoga and massages. Acclaimed names include: Costa Navarino (Mainland Messinia – two hour drive from Athens) with its string of luxury hotels, Amanzoe (Porto Heli), Sani (Chalkidiki), Porto Zante (Zakynthos) and Daios Cove (Crete). Prefer to nestle in closer to nature in a sort-of camping option that will be a hit with kids, with all the frills mom hopes for in a holiday? Try Ergon Beach House in Chalkidiki.

7. Pick an Adventure

There may be little left of the ancient ruins that remain, but there is something that moves me in the presence of historical rubble. The better preserved archaeological digs include: the uninhabited island of Delos (around which the Cycladic islands circle around, and a daytrip option from Mykonos), Akrotiri (Greece’s Pompeii in Santorini), the Minoan palace of Knossos (Crete), and The Temple of Aphaia (Aegina). Kos, birthplace of Hippocrates, boasts a significant collection of sites to explore alongside great beaches, including the healing center and Sanctuary of Asklepion.

On the mainland, notable attractions aside from the Parthenon include Delphi, Mycenae, Olympia and Temple of Apollo Epicurius.

You can even combine archaeological exploits with adventure sports. Keen on diving through an underwater archaeological site? In Alonissos resides the “Parthenon of shipwrecks”. Dating back to 425 B.C., recreational divers will be able to visit the undersea antiquities museum later this year.

Alternatively, drop the historical focus entirely. Hike, windsurf, river trek, cycle, rock climb, go whitewater rafting … There’s a world-class environment for most adventure sports. And of course, there’s sailing.

Culinary adventures are not to be missed on these fertile, sunbaked lands where farm-to-table is the norm, not a novelty. Go on a wild edible mushroom hunt in the forests of Epirus. Join an olive harvest in September and October. Discover up-and-coming wineries gaining worldwide attention. Even on hedonistic Mykonos, you can find a farmstead for kids to unearth their meals. Or simply, just eat. While good food is everywhere in Greece, Sifnos and Tinos have reputations for standout gastronomy.

Jan 26, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

Paros is Greece’s Latest ‘It’ Island. It’s Also Great with Kids.

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, why do tourists pine after Greece’s pretty girl next door?

Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easy to access.

She’s also delicately balanced. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage.

Like its translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence, Paros’ shine is understated, but brilliant. It might lack the drama of some big hitting neighbours (Santorini, Mykonos and Milos), but its shimmer is steadily pulling-in the crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa, the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene slice of a seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands. And wherever you pick, you shouldn’t be far from village conveniences like mini markets, bakeries and tavernas.

— PARIKIA —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where you will arrive if you’re travelling by ferry. Not particularly charming at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, colourful walkways are scattered with the unexpected remains of an intriguing past. Somewhere within this tangle of streets is Symposium – an idyllic coffee and crepe stop with a raised platform from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenience for families. Within walking range is Livadia beach, backed by cafe-bars that have furnished its shores with sunbeds and parasols for easy dips with baby. Meanwhile, parents can take turns at beach volleyball in front of the Paros Nautical Club. Looking for a dreamier splash? Child-friendly Marcelo is a 7-minute drive (or a 5-minute boat taxi trip from the port) the bay after, with shallow, sandy shores and aquamarine waters.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks that totter along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques, slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive with the setting sun. Bathed in pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. All very inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge. For a more relaxed dining experience, head to Thalami in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas – dine with a view of Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If the summer holidays you envisage look more like days in quiet langour, consider Alyki. A 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unadulterated little village ticks all the right boxes for families. Anchoring the village beach is a tree-shaded playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade starts. It quickly became customary for us to whisk away a custard-filled bougatsa from Sophie’s to enjoy on a playground bench as the kids scampered and socialised.

The promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) offers a complete selection of eateries, taking you from breakfast to seafood taverna dinner (To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals). No energy for restaurant dining? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for takeaway packets of Italian vegetarian (e.g. eggplant lasagne) to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. A restaurant you can take home is always easier after long days on the beach.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

Paros’ beach scene is delightfully family-friendly. With a swimmable coastline encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), lunar-like bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beache (Kalogeros) for healing mud baths.

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

So which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all you might envision from a tourist-savvy Greek island is available. And there’s more: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the gardens of a butterfly haven (with a café and playground) watered by natural springs, and drop into an evening watercolouring class in Parikia while mom slips off into the shops. If she can add a reformer pilates class (a number of options) or a game of tennis to the itinerary, it all starts to sound pretty irresistible.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are villages to seek out pit-stops for ice cream on tap. The Cyclades charms with captivating walks through all-white villages cloaked in bougainvillea bushes. In the less-trodden villages like Lefkes (the old capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), you can enjoy leisurely strolls without the kids bumping into too many people.

*Lovely Lefkes village in Paros’ mountainous interior with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by beautiful neighbours. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is just a 10-minute journey by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely as well (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

Greece is replete with alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, also close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach and swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of the kind of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets holiday with kids, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for the lazier among us.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

— chora (main town) —

The Greek “Chora” is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

— pLAKA —

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we avoid the Chora. As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, cluttered by one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d advise staying clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a stylish selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Admittedly, this is not for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but I was lured by the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato on repeat. A few doors down is Yazoo – polished, standing out with prettily plated, creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, and none of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an aquatic adventurer’s joy. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s south beach – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a short slice of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is unobscured by rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment is settled at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach. Happily, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats, shades, and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades are filled with interesting finds. There’s Valindras distillery, the oldest in Naxos producing the island’s famed citron liquer. Era, a jam making workshop, specialises in Greece’s famous “spoon sweets” (syrupy fruit preserves). The highlight for us is Fish and Olive – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by a very talented Katharina Bolesch, then embellished with ethereal fish motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt, these are souvenirs to treasure.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and their friends. Fill with water and blow to produce a delightful twittering sound, still pleasant on the ears even after the hundredth time.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Naxos old town, Greece — *Old town walks*.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for an idyllic sunset view. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

If you snag a chance to continue the night with cocktails and pretend to be cool again, move onto the harbourside veranda of 520 Bar and Restaurant. We had managed to leave baby with yiayia (Greek for grandma) on this occasion, which may have helped the oddly perfect progression of the evening.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee scampering kids as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Stellar such spots in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable here. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites and succulent seafood.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from its beachfront tables is a bit of magic. Paradiso has a wide selection of “cooked food”. A term that confused me initially, my Greek husband clarified that it refers to the type of food mom would cook at home. Perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds, fussy little eaters can survey the spread of ready-made (and quick to serve) options on a buffet-like display before making their selection.

Paradiso Restaurant Beachfront — *Beachside dining at Paradiso*.

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) and better avoided if you prefer quiet beaches and cool village walks. That said, Naxos doesn’t get unbearably busy in general, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can also retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: A Guide to Its Playground of Dreamy Adventures

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper. At once relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal fascination, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

LAY OF THE LAND (& WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS)

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. Having so far escaped runaway development, and because of its unique geology, these are not plentiful on Milos. The alternative? We would look for accommodation options in Pollonia (with a basic beach of its own), hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), and Adamantas (the main port with Papikinou beach nearby), in that order.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capital where life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the more recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinks, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — *Palaios – a perfect place to settle in for coffee and sweets in Plaka.*

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Quieter Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. And nestled in a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea is 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens set below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas, proximity to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, and a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for morning coffees, Stasi for failsafe pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef helmed OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, has only a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to get to. It may also be missing the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas. Operators have come and gone, and for 2024, visitors will have to throw their towels down on the beach. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to the island with its fantastical lunar landscape of wind and wave-scuplted tuff. Not a beach proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said that you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, even serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming claypot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, and not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum on each trip to Milos with the girls. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a well-curated background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a comprehensive display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place to bring home a souvenir for fellow crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *An abundance of minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *The sand kitchen of Sirocco.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the main tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus port in Athens will get you there in three-and-a-half hours. It’s a good way to travel if you are tempted to extend your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this tiny Cycladic dream.

Last updated 27 June 2023

(Pano or Ano) Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, some very good tavernas, comfortable aparthotels, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy Airbnbs have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s highlight? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island, an on-call taxi service stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So even at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa, and villa to beach. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half-an-hour from 8am to 8pm Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora, using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow through the Cyclades in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, the family tote is stuffed with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

All the island’s six beaches are blissfully sunbed free, or “unorganised” as they say in Greece. Be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes finished with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and a scattering oversized terracotta pots imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Aside from tavernas both updated and traditional and the mandatory souvlaki hole-in-the-wall (a very good one), you will also find an artisanal gelateria, a loukoumades shop (Greek-style doughnuts) diagonally opposite, and newcomer Ca Chi Ca, introducing on-trend street food like bao buns and steak burgers with sublime cocktails. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like a splash in the artic. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach on Greek islands, and for making a smaller dent on budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, it’s located opposite Naxos (with an airport) just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, it’s a 5-hour journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port. While the journey is long, the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride compared with ferries with airplane-style seating.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Car: We took our car on the ferry boat.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

by Lindsay Dec 29, 2019

written by Lindsay

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is proof of this. For out of the post-war housing crisis of the impoverished 1950s, the antiparochi system of mutual exchange between construction worker and landowner was the citizen’s answer to a desperate need. This gave rise to the city’s sprawl of concrete volumes, much removed from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past, to the frequent surprise of tourists.

Inventive, charismatic, and still packed with exciting landmarks, it’s worth a 2 to 3-day stopover if you’re in the area. The city is also spiffing up: ex-Mayor Kostas Bakoyannis introduced continuing efforts to remove graffiti, create pocket parks in the concrete sprawl, and a new wave of once derelict buildings are getting impressive makeovers.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options in the center include:

Ergon Houses – a nature-inspired, contemporary-chic sanctuary in the heart of town, new entrants Ergon House (23 Mitropoleos) and Ergon Bakehouse (9 Patroou) have extra large family rooms designed for parties of 4 and 5.
Colors Hotel – Splashed in cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven. Our only gripe – it’s located in Omonoia with a slightly seedy reputation in an unpretty part of town.
Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is just one block from the main shopping street of Ermou. Still too much for little legs? Retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing. Their triple rooms accommodate an accompanying child on a sofa bed, while Superior Connecting Rooms are an option for more.
Grand Bretagne – The traditional choice of luxury, and also with a rooftop pool, this iconic fixture at the corner of Syntagma Square charms with old-world grandeur. A skip away from Parliament, watch the changing of the Presidential Guards (Evzones or Tsoliades) ceremony on Sunday at 11am. If you miss Sunday’s grand event, a “routine change” takes place every hour, every day. Rollaway beds and connecting rooms are available on request.
AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool, but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) that’s lovely for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For longer stays demanding more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may suit you better. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. And if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a single visit to the Acropolis, consider venturing out to the southern coast for a more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care and duck out for a precious few hours to explore the city, unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days:

Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt, and more. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
Take a walk around Thissio where the Ancient Agora is. There’s a modest playground opposite Athinaion Politeia café.
To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. Stop by Forget Me Not for tasteful gifts and memorabilia.
Head out to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with a go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s also a ton of things to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in heading out into the cool of the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. XPLORE is its impressive kids entertainment center with an aquarium, adventure arena, toddler play area, and science discovery zone.

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and elegant, sit inside or out.
To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to.
Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Churning out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and of all colours of wonderful, vegan options are also available.
Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades takes the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet and dresses them up in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings to meet every child’s fantasy.

AND SIPS

Meanwhile, the “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand in Monastiraki Square right next to Moustakas toy shop, where a line of taxis should be waiting to receive passengers.
Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone of Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected. Cosmote often launches unlimited data plans for the summer for just €10 a month.
Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city. If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
Pharmacies – Found in almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 8 a.m. / 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. / 9 p.m., and close on Sundays. Some close in the afternoon from 2 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.. For more information, read our article on Staying Safe.
Beachwear and swimming gear – Oysho is a favourite. There’s also local brand Sugarfree, Calzedonia (with a men’s selection), and trusty H&M.
Baby clothing, feeding and travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.

Dec 29, 2019 0 comment

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