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    • Family Favourites >
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      • Paros ✈️
      • Sifnos
      • Skopelos
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      • Athens ✈️ >
        • Central Athens
        • Kifisia (Northern Suburb)
      • Thessaloniki ✈️
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      • Meteora ⛰️
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      • Skopelos
    • Saronic Islands
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      • Limnos ✈️
  • Special Places to Stay
    • Athens (Central) – The Aeolian
    • Ios (Cyclades) – Sea Sound Beach House
    • Milos (Cyclades) – Villa De Viento
  • Insider Insights
    • Bleecker & Love
    • Meet MAMAKITA – Family Travel Planners in Greece
    • Papa’s Grove’s Greece
  • Travel Tips
    • How to Select a Greek Island 🎯
    • Best Times to Visit 🔆
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    • Driving in Greece 🚗
    • Trip Planning Tips for Young Families
    • Selecting Accommodation – Mistakes to Avoid 🏠
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      • Travel Tips

        Practical Greece – Good to Know Before You…

        Aug 04, 2025

        Travel Tips

        The Best Thing to Add to Your Holiday…

        Jul 19, 2025

        Travel Tips

        Selecting a Family Holiday Home in Greece? 5…

        Feb 06, 2023

        Travel Tips

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        Jan 30, 2023

        Travel Tips

        How to Plan a Sweat-Free Summer in Greece…

        Jan 29, 2022

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    • Don’t Leave Greece Without . . .
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    • Travel Gear for Babies and Toddlers 🧳
    • Travel Toys for Toddlers 🧸
    • Beach Essentials for Families ⛱️
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Through the Blue

FALL IN LOVE WITH GREECE. AEGEAN ADVENTURES FOR FAMILIES.

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Cyclades

SIFNOS or SERIFOS? Which Island is for You?

by Lindsay Jul 12, 2022
written by Lindsay
Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos

Both 75 square kilometres in size and full of Cycladic charm, Sifnos and Serifos are separated by a 20-minute fast-ferry ride across the Aegean. Apart from their first letters, what else do they share? Outlining the differences that make them uniquely alluring, here’s how to take your pick if you only have time for one.

If you love a dreamy beach

Serifos has beaches more dazzling and diverse than Sifnos. From aquamarine Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis, to dark and wild Ganema, these waters are all you expect from Greece’s reputation for stunning shores. At the same time, its beach scene is not as developed as Sifnos, where the island’s best beaches are conveniently “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols, as they say in Greece) for travelling families. Providing amenities at your doorstep, Sifnos is the island to choose if you prioritise convenience over beach brilliance.

  • Psilli Ammos Beach in Serifos
    Aquamarine waters in Psilli Ammos Beach, Serifos
  • Light shades of blue at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
    More perfect shores at Agios Ioannis beach in Serifos
  • Platis Gialos is our favourite beach in Sifnos – not as impressive, but organised with beach bars and more backing the beach

If you appreciate a raw and rugged aesthetic 

While both islands are mountainous, Serifos is a stunner. Visually striking with imposing peaks and stark landforms carpeted by low and dry vegetation, its landscape has inspired some extraordinary architecture built in synchrony with its surroundings.  In contrast, Sifnos’ fertile hillscapes have been extensively and carefully cultivated. Rolling terraced mountains are covered with olive and almond trees for a softer, greener countryside.

  • Serifos Chora
    Serifos’ Chora dipped in peachy sunset hues. Image credit: Despina Galani.
  • Mountainscapes in sunset at Serifos
    Sunset drives on the way to Serifos’ Chora
  • Serifos Mountainscape
    Views of Megalo Livadi village from the Throne of Cyclops in Serifos
  • Artemon village in Sifnos
    It’s a little greener in Sifnos

If you love Greek villages 

What Sifnos lacks in beaches, it makes up for in its villages. While Serifos has two main villages of interest (a tiny hilltop Chora and portside Livadi), Sifnos has a handful. Mountain top Apollonia is its liveliest, with bursts of bougainvillaea cascading down colourful shopfronts that lead onto blue domed churches around the corner. Quiet Artemonas has a subtly stately vibe and a special sweet store (Theodorou). And most memorably, medieval Kastro is fascinating, apart from being especially beautiful. And of course, the seaside villages of Platis Gialos, Kamares and Vathy provide many opportunities for coffees, cocktails, and souvenir shopping in between beach dips.

  • Shops in the Apollonia, Sifnos
    Sifnos has an assortment of villages to explore, all uniquely colourful and charming
  • Main square of the Chora in Serifos
    Serifos’ Chora is smaller than that of Sifnos

If you like shopping 

Unless you’re into souvenir magnets and such, shopping is not a thing in Serifos. Sifnos, with larger villages, includes a handful of shops that entice with curated island chic, alongside a centuries-old pottery scene. Take home exquisitely crafted tableware and traditional casserole earthenware that promise the magic touch in your next slow-cooked meal.

If you’re culturally curious

Sifnos has a greater array of archaeological sites, historical towers and dazzling churches to fill cultural appetites. Off-beach sites of interest in Serifos are spartan, and perhaps interesting mainly because of the breathtaking panoramas from their lofty vantage points.

  • Sunset walk at Kastro, Sifnos
    This cliffside walk in Kastro (built on the ruins of the island’s ancient capital) leads to The Church of Seven Matyrs
  • Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
    The iconic Church of the Seven Matyrs in Kastro, Sifnos
  • Cyclops Throne in Serifos
    Cyclops Throne, one of Serifos’ main off-beach attractions, offered lovely views but was slightly lackluster in itself

If you’re into fine dining 

Truth be told, Sifnos, with it’s reputation as a gourmand’s paradise, did not stand out dramatically for us. Yet, it boasts modern fine dining finesse with celebrity-frequented, experimental outposts like Omega3 and Cantina. Also, being more developed, there are more options to choose from. Serifos’ islanders tended to point us to a familiar list of go-to tavernas. It did have one edge for us, however – Blue Bamboo, a contemporary Thai restaurant from Athens was a welcome palette refresher after one-too-many tomato-based meals. 

  • Cantina in Seralia, Sifnos
    Cantina is Sifnos’ most exciting culinary offer yet
  • Seaside tavern in Livadi, Serifos
    Dining in Serifos is more traditional. Image credit: Cantina

If you have young children 

With a more developed tourist infrastructure, Sifnos is convenient. For ultimate ease, choose a village by the beach, like Platis Gialos (our top pick), Kamares and Vathy. Livadaki in Serifos offers a similar set-up, but is otherwise the only such option for convenience on the island.

  • Platis Gialos Beach
    Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
  • Livadakia Beach Serifos
    Livadakia beach in Serifos, with the amenities of Livadi village nearby
Jul 12, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

Is Gourmet Sifnos the Best Greek Island for Young Families?

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022
written by Lindsay
Chrysopigi Church in Sifnos

Dainty, dazzling and delicious, Sifnos is a soulful delight with a hint of posh.

In its compact size, it’s also especially convenient for family holidays. 


🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏛️

If Greece is home to great gastronomy, Sifnos is said to be its paragon. A semi-secret hideaway of the cognoscenti and French grecophiles, it’s also known for its unique village charm.

But the island is a thumb-smudge of a mere 75 square kilometers. Was it going to be boring? What exactly does it mean to be a gastronomic gem? And as for the all-important summer beach scene – is it really as impressive as some reviews suggest? 

As we check into our Airbnb, our hosts tell us it’s busy for June (the best time to visit, we think). We quickly discover that a busy June still allows you to slip into a languid rhythm even on buzzier Platis Gialos. Yet, Sifnos is far from boring. With graphic mountain villages, striking churches set on daring rock outcrops, scenic hiking paths, sizzling dining, fine barefoot wining, and troves of exquisite pottery to discover, seven days on the island was just enough. 

The Church of Seven Matyrs off Kastro, built on the ruins of Sifnos’ ancient capital.

The only slightly bland thing for us was its coast. Blanketed in brownish-grey sand, the island’s beaches don’t boast the dreamy spectrum of colours of Greece’s best. Still in love with Sifnos, we found there’s more to the island than just a pretty shoreline.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Platis Gialos is superbly located. Equipped with every convenience, including the island’s best beach, don’t let the “beach resort” reference put you off. Its vibe is more of a quaint seaside village dotted with guesthouses, pottery shops, traditional taverns and stylish cafe-bars (Lost Bay shakes up great cocktails). There’s also a modest playground by the sea at its center (by NUS taverna, run by Narlis Farms, which organises farm tours and pottery classes for kids 8 years and older).

  • Luminescence at Platis Gialos beach
  • Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Omega3 Fish and Wine Bar – fine dining, if manage what to do with accompanying kids.
  • Bakery in Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Our usual bakery stop behind the mini mart next to Omega3. Go early – a lot runs out by noon
  • Lost bay beach bar, Platis Gialos, Sifnos
    Lost bay beach bar in Platis Gialos – all we could want in cocktails by the sea

We stayed at Miles Away, the beach just steps from our patio. Perfectly appointed and in a prime location, a few meters to the left were some of the island’s best wining and dining venues. Every morning, a bleary-eyed saunter to Palmira would get the day started with a wake-up brew. A few doors down at To Steki, we might break for a hearty lunch exemplary of traditional Sifnian perfection. And at Omega3 another few doors away, a modern kind of mouth-watering experience that arrives with a drizzle of chili, brightly coloured globules, or pink foam.

A modest playground by the sea at Platis Gialos.

The mini market next to Omega3 catered to most of our practical needs – fresh baked bread for breakfast (supplied by the bakery behind), fruit, and legumes and vegetables (frozen and fresh) for tossing up simple meals in our Airbnb. 

So here, in this idyllic stretch, we found the sum total of our family’s requirements and more. Where all is easy, I can’t think of a more perfect spot for a family with children under two.

Kamares is the other sizable seaside village to consider. But the feel here is distinctly less tranquil and free . Bounded by towering mountains on each side, a portside buzz reverberates from the main road running through. It’s also less central than Platis Gialos if you plan on exploring the island’s southeastern beaches and attractions (e.g. Kastro and Chrisopigi).

The port harbour and seaside village of Kamares.

THE BEACH SCENE

Sifnos is not reputed for its beaches. Compared with the champagne shores and aquamarine waters of Koufonisia and Naxos, the islands’ muddy sand is more akin to potter’s clay. Still pristine, its waters sparkle radiantly in the light of the flattering Greek sun. Simplifying the search for parents, there isn’t a confusing array of swimmable bays to choose from. Most are also shallow, calm, and tot-friendly. Here are our favourites.

Azure waters in Apokofto.

VILLAGES

Without stunning shores to boast of, one of Sifnos’ central charm is its villages. While small, they are soulful. Boho-chic ladies toting two thousand dollar straw bags amble down the alleyways of quiet Artemonas and its neoclassical manors. Elderly men savour cigars with sweaters slung over shoulders and knotted in front, while their younger counterparts promenade with fitted shirts and cropped pants.

Walking through the main street of Apollonia – life begins at sunset in Greek villages.

As with most Greek mountain villages with innumerable steps to battle with, forget the stroller. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit to avoid the heat. Like the shops and cafes that close for a 2pm to 5pm siesta, it’s a good idea to follow suit with a late naps so the kids can keep up with village children dashing around playgrounds and squares on late Mediterranean nights.

— APOLLONIA —

Apollonia is the Chora (main town) and capital. Small, but with enough bars and restaurants for some stirring nightlife. Drop a Google map pin on Vergeraki bakery and head up the path to its right to find the main alleyways of interest.

Apollonia village in Sifnos
Smart boutiques full of colour and charm in Apollonia.
— KASTRO —

Cliff-top Kastro, the island’s ancient capital inhabited since prehistoric times, is a sight to behold. Within its sleepy medieval walls, an Alice in Wonderland like walk awaits with unsuspecting delights: a loukoumades (Greek doughnut) bolthole in a bright pop of red, a Cuban-inspired cocktail bar wrapped around a scenic corner, and at its foot on Seralia beach below, an unlikely experimental culinary outpost called Cantina, co-owned by the former Head Chef of Omega3. The highlight? As you emerge into the seaside pathway, the solitary blue-domed Church of The Seven Martyrs sits commandingly on an islet. Tiny, commanding, and infectiously serene.

Kastro Village Walkway
The cliffside path to the Church of the Seven Matyrs.

DINING WITH KIDS

Delicious Sifnos. Home to Greece’s first celebrity chef, there are modern dining options that rival experienced counterparts in Santorini within its terraced and smartly cultivated mountainous terrain. But beyond deconstructed meals, an embellished reputation, and romantic accounts of sage and thyme scented air, truth be told, we found that Sifnos had the same share of mediocre and very good restaurants we experienced on most other Greek islands.

So where can you go for a satisfying meal where you don’t have to wrestle for space in tight alleyways, or worry about tots falling off stools in haute-hip hotspots?

— TO STEKI (PLATIS GIALOS) —

Initiating us into the island’s revered recipes of chickpea stew (revitha) and slowcooked lamb (mastelo), every spoonful at family-run To Steki was soul-warming, Sifnian heaven. Perched a step up from the beach, a play area of sandy shores lies below.

To Steki for traditional Sifnian dishes.
— CHRISOPIGI TAVERNA (APOFTOKO) —

Set along a series of uphill steps, great views of the picturesque bay can be enjoyed from most vantage points in the taverna. They, too, serve a beautiful lamb mastelo and veal stamna.

Chrisopigi tavern on Apoftoko beach.
— KAFENEIO DRAKAKIS (APOLLONIA) —

Space is always tight between Greek village walls. And the eateries nestled within are not always conducive for families with chairs spilling into walkways. In spite of its overblown popularity and sleepy service, Drakakis‘ position by a small square is a big plus for parents who enjoy eating as they watch over their kids scamper around.

  • Drakakis Taverna, Apollonia, Sifnos
    Drakakis Kafeneio in Apollonia.
  • Drawn to Drakakis by seating in the square for the kids to have a run

WHEN TO VISIT

Tourists to Greece are increasingly discovering the many benefits of travelling in spring and autumn over its searing summers. Both the heat and crowds are more bearable than in the peak months of July and August. Yet, on small islands like Sifnos, a little too early in Spring might mean many businesses have yet to open, or too late in Autumn and they have already shut for the season. The first 2 weeks of June and the first 2 weeks of September are our favourite times to visit.

GETTING THERE

Sifnos is a nap of a two-and-a-half hour journey by fast-ferry from Athens’ Pireaus port. First stopping at Serifos, after Sifnos the boat continues onto Milos. While the island has no airport, you can also fly into Milos (a 40-minute ride away on a high-speed ferry) for a perfect island pairing. More island hopping itineraries according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO SIFNOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing from Pireaus port.

Jul 06, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Sifnos

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2022
written by Lindsay
Platis Gialos, Sifnos

Where do you throw your towels down (or not) in-between sampling Sifnos‘ famous gastronomic flavours? While the island’s main draw is not stunning shores, Sifnos boasts a particular benefit for young families: an attractive set-up of shallow bays nestled within relaxed villages boasting an excellent choice of seaside tavernas and cafes – a joy for parents with little legs to herd around.

Of all the easily accessible options, we list our favourites here. Some “organised” (as they say in Greece, providing loungers and parasols), others offering natural shade, and all complete with dining options for an easy skip from sunbed, to taverna, or beach bar. 

PLATIS GIALOS

Wide and sandy in the southern end of Sifnos, Platis Gialos is our pick for the island’s most attractive swimming. The left corner (as you face the beach) is free from rocky hindrances on its seabed, with glassy waters inching up to waist height after a lengthy 100 meters. While some bits are organised, it’s not smothered with sunbeds. And if you’ve left your beach toys behind, the mini market next to dining hotspot Omega3 has fishing nets, shovels, and buckets. Fringed by boutique hotels, chic cafes, smart restaurants and traditional tavernas, there’s also a small playground by the beach (next to NUS restaurant).

 

  • Platis Gialos Beach
    Platis Gialos village and beach in Sifnos
  • Omega3 Restaurant in Platis Gialos, Sifnos

The seaside villages of Kamares and Vathy have a similarly convenient set-up. All organised, sheltered shorelines and shallow waters make these alternative child-friendly options. Yet, with towering mountains flanking the deep-set harbour of Kamares, and the omega-shaped bay of Vathy feeling more like swimming in a lake, we found Platis Gialos the most attractive of the three.   

APOKOFTO

Touched with the charm of Chrisopogi church commanding its corner, Apokofto’s azure waters are marvelously clear. The seabed, however, is slightly steeper than in Platis Gialos, and rocky in parts. It’s wavier here than at Platis Gialos, and better with older kids in company. Unorganised, a scattering of tamarisk trees offer relief from the sun. Go early to secure a spot. 

  • Eat, dip, eat
  • Chrisopigi Church at Sunset
    Exploring Chrisopigi at sunset

Tucked away behind the beach, Way Cup roaster is serious about coffee. Aside from a perfect cappuccino, it also serves cocktails, smoothies and juice. Hang out on their sun-dappled terrace, or save your drinks for the beach. For post-swim meals, there are two taverns by the sea. We dined at Chrisopigi tavern twice in our seven of stay days.  

GLYFO

The three mini beach bays of Glyfo, Faros, and Fassalou sit in sequence southeast of the island. Glyfo, separated from Faros by a small village, is the most attractive in its picturesque seclusion. Without road access (park at Faros), a short trek through the village will lead to the bay. Unorganised, tamarisk trees line its shore for shade, where calm and shallow waters stretch out for about 50 meters. On the opposite end from where you enter, a short and scenic hiking path leads you the the church of Agios Charalampos, and then to Chrysopigi.

  • Glyfo beach in Sifnos
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Mykonos

by Lindsay Jan 22, 2022
written by Lindsay
Kalo Livadi Beach

On an island notorious for parties, crowds, and rambunctious extravagance, where can you go to find a family-friendly share of its sparkling blue seas (and not have to splash obscene amounts of money)?

Confused by drunkenly divergent online reviews of what’s best in Mykonos, we went from coast-to-coast to find seaside sanctuaries that are as relaxed as is Mykonianly possible. It turned out that “coast-to-coast” here involved convoluted loops inland, then back out onto a bit of shore that could be just next door.  So to save you from a similar hassle, our top picks are listed here in rank order. I’ve also included why some other beaches you might read about didn’t appeal to us, in case your stylistic preferences resonate with ours.

KALO LIVADI

On the island’s overcrowded southern fringe, Kalo Livadi is a literal breath of fresh air. There’s even a sweep of sunbed-free space on the right as you face the sea. For now, visitors can enjoy its turquoise waters and soft white sand in relative serenity. Wade in and the water gradually drops to (adult) waist-height after about 50 meters. Not the shallowest, but still good for child’s play.

Kalo Livadi Beach
Kalo Livadi beach with its two beach clubs, Lohan and Solymar (the louder of the two)

Two beach clubs have secured covetable real estate on its shores. Unlike its namesake, nautical-themed Lohan is laid-back. Socially distant beds surround an airy canopy of sails covering the central bar. There’s easy electronica in the background, and along with whitewashed furnishings, all is soothing. The sunbeds at Lohan cost €30 a pair (cheap on Mykonos, although prices on the island seem to fluctuate with the wind). Ample free parking is located directly behind. 

ELIA

Elia is perhaps more striking than Kalo Livadi, but also with more admirers. The good – one of the island’s longest beaches, you don’t feel the crowd as much as on smaller bays like the Paradise, Paraga or Ornos. A smattering of ultra-luxe hotels provide beachfront accommodation. Elegant constructions dressed in muted hues, these low-slung volumes discreetly blend into their surroundings. 

Elia beach
Elia’s waters are perfection

Like other natural beauties before it, a recent remodel has fitted Elia with loungers from end-to-end (Book one here). There’s still some slivers of free space in between assembly blocks of sunbeds.  With faint music in the background, the ambience here is easy. Sunbeds cost €50 per pair.

Elia Beach
Parking at Elia is right behind the beach

Before you get excited about the hidden section past the rocky headland at the edge of the carpark, it’s useful to know that this is also nudist territory.  

PARADISE

Why have we included this beach with a party-hard reputation in our list? Tropicana, a club without the notorious island attitude, is actually pretty laid-back before 4 p.m.. It’s also without the pole dancers of neighbouring Super Paradise. The crowd, less determined to make a scene, is still more self-conscious than is relaxing. Selfie-taking borders on obsessive, and the occasional young siren bares her chest for a photo op with the club photographer. 

Tropicana Beach Club on Paradise Beach
Tropicana Beach Club on Paradise beach, where we didn’t expect to settle into

Sandbags and sun loungers fill the shore, so we focus our gaze on the stunning aquamarine waters beyond. The seabed has sections of reef for feet to watch out for, which is also home to an array of marine life – bring snorkeling equipment. Sunbeds cost €35 a pair and there’s a €10 minimum spend. Parking was free as well.

Tropicana Beach
A slice of Paradise

AGRARI

Quieter Agrari perhaps deserves third spot over fourth with an expanse of free beach to tumble around. At its center is tranquil Agrari restaurant-bar-cafe. Wood patio-style furniture spread out under the leafy green canopy of a little forest of tamarisks. 

Agrari Beach Bar
Agrari Beach bar and restaurant – delightfully bare and relaxed

So what’s not to love at Agrari? With mustard-yellow sand, it’s waters were just not quite the shade of piercing blue we idealise. It also has a reefier seabed. But if natural, raw and free, with some organisation (loungers, food and drink) is your priority, this is it. Free parking is located directly behind. 

Agrari Beach
The golden shores of quieter and lesser-known Agrari

AGIOS SOSTIS

One of the last few beaches on Mykonos that has escaped development, northern Agios Sostis is for throwing your towels down to relish on beaches unblemished. The difference in atmosphere here is distinct – rugged and real, with a dark and wild appeal. Resident taverna KiKi’s, a local cult favourite known for mouthwatering grills, has also remained largely unchanged since the 80s. Small and nondescript, expect a one to two hour wait for a meal here. Parking is a bit of a challenge on the narrow strip of road leading down to the beach, but we’ve always managed without too much difficulty. There are no facilities here, so bring water and everything you need for a day on the beach.

Agios Sostis Beach
Bare and beautiful Agios Sostis north of the island

AND THE OTHER BEACHES WE VISITED?

The waters of Shirley Valentine’s Agios Ioannis were not as dreamy as we envisioned (Agrari would have been a better option), with lots of rocks in the seabed. Paraga was exorbitant, although by the time we got there, we were tired of travelling and ready to spend. Prepared to splurge, we headed to Scorpios. But without a booking, nothing was available. Ornos was so crowded with people on the shore and boats out at sea, I could have been on the east coast of Singapore. And Platis Gialos felt too built-up with squeezed-together hotel blocks marring the shorefront. 

Agios Ioannis Beach
Agios Ioannis with Hippie Fish club in the background
Agios Ioannis Beach
The waters at Agios Ioannis was not as impressive as we expected

Still confused? Approach family travel specialists in Greece, Mamakita. We wish we did before we attempted the island ourselves.

Jan 22, 2022 0 comment
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Destinations

Kifissia, Athens: A Family Oasis You’ll Want to Call Home

by Lindsay Jan 16, 2022
written by Lindsay
Syngrou Forest in Kifisia Athens

A retreat from the concrete sprawl of Athens and a perfect base for long family holidays in Greece, leafy green Kifissia breathes serenity, sophistication, and old world charm.


Last updated 2 Feb 2026

Our home when we lived in Athens, Kifissia is a suburban oasis for young families. While the southern coastal stretch of Glyfada, Vogliameni and Voula gets all the recent attention with the rise of Ellinikon Metropolitan Park, for me, Kifissia has greater appeal. Set in lush greenery, it’s also about five degrees cooler than the city centre and south in the sweltering summer. And for long-term residents, this is where most of Greece’s best international schools congregate. 

If you’re considering holidaying or working in Greece for a length of time, here are six reasons why there’s no place else like Kifisia:

1. The Village Vibe

An intimate suburb with a quietly refined vibe, Kifisia is complete. Heritage stone houses, once the summer homes of the city’s elite, stand alongside new world fashion titans from Bottega Venetta to Zara. Weaved in-between are chic cafés (atmospheric Natu next to the Goulandris Natural History Museum deserves a mention), curated kids boutiques (Kitabu spills over with a choice selection of books and toys), endless sweet shops (Da Vinci presents an eye-catching showcase of gelato), two of the city’s oldest open-air cinemas, boutique hotels (book into The Y Hotel if you’re checking the neighbourhood out – connecting rooms are available), and an eclectic restaurant selection. The convenient and covetable sit along plane tree-lined streets made for sun-dappled strolls. At its center, by a square large enough for scooting in circles, horse-drawn carriages offer rides, while a balloon man roams with a colourful cloud of mylar cartoon characters in hand. 

Kifisia Center Athens
Scooting in the center of Kifisia.
Natu cafe-restaurant in Goulandris Natural History Museum
Natu’s enchanting grounds in the garden of Goulandris Natural History Museum.

2. Forest Fun

Kids love the forest. And Kifisia has two. One is at its doorstep by the train station, but is actually more of a park with a café nestled within, while the larger Syngrou estate is for serious explorers. A 97-hectare wonderland of virgin forest, a network of pathways make way for cyclists, scooters, strollers and joggers. Wander off, and you might spot a huddle of turtles hiding out in the woods. Families have picnics on lawns, and hang bunting from trees to celebrate birthdays. There are also some buildings of interest to explore – a beekeeping museum by the main entrance where the parking lot is, a gothic-styled Christian Orthodox chapel (Agios Andreas) designed by Ernst Ziller, and a greenhouse of cacti and succulents. 

Kifisia park directly in front of the metro station.

3. Playground in a park

Public playgrounds have a sketchy reputation in Athens, but Mavromichali park is one of a kind. Nestled within an upscale residential neighbourhood, there’s a section for big kids, and another for little. All surrounded by beautiful garden grounds with benches for sipping on takeout coffees under a canopy of leafy green trees. 

Playground in Kifisia Athens

4. Location

Kifisia may not be near Pireaus, but miles more pleasant for catching a boat is the quieter port of Rafina a 35-minute drive away. Also in the area are two of Athens’ better malls – The Mall and Golden Hall (with Xplore – an impressive kids entertainment center), and Ktima Aristi, a nature-based oasis of play for children and parents alike. Attica Zoological Park is another 25-minute drive out in Spata, next to American-run MacArthurGlen outlet mall (with a sheltered outdoor playground). And an 8-minute drive from here is the Wall – a sports complex and entertainment center and home to Greece’s largest climbing wall, beach volleyball courts, go-karting, a rope course and trampolines.

5. International Schools

A host of international schools cluster around the north. British-blended options include Byron, Campion and the esteemed Saint Catherine’s educating children of the Greek elite. With a fancy compound and reputation to match, trendy American College is US-based, along with American Community Schools and Anatolia College. Non-country specific international schools include International School of Athens, Costeas-Geitonas School, Doukas, and I.M Panagiotopoulos. And where an alternate language of instruction is offered, there’s French-speaking Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix and German-speaking distribution Deutsche Schule.

Outside of the north,  St. Lawrence College is located south in Koropi and the International School of Pireaus in Pireaus. Both are British-based. 

6. The Organic Farmers Market

Finally, there’s the weekly farmers market (“laiki”) we love. On Kokkinara Street, the one in Kifisia is organic. Offering seasonal fruits and vegetables, dry grains, eggs, and even yoghurt and cheese, it pops up every Monday from 4 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.. 

Jan 16, 2022 0 comment
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Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Milos

by Lindsay Jan 11, 2022
written by Lindsay
Tourlos beach, next to the more popular Paleochori.

Last updated: 29 Jul 2024

Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.

ACHIVADOLIMNI

A 10 -minute drive from the main port, Achivadolimni’s protected waters are ideal for young children with waters that stay waist deep even 20 meters in. Calm and clear, a beguiling ombre of blue stretches towards Adamantas village opposite. Daddies prop up naked babies in armbands, toddlers splash confidently in Swim Trainers, and our girls practice snorkelling in  preparation for the deeper waters of Paleochori. Sporadically, a plane flies by. A passing ferry might also stir up a series of waves, eliciting shrieks of excitement from kids as they’re rocked by the waters.

Achivadolimni Beach in Milos, Greece

Next to the lifeguard tower, a basic bar-shack rents out straw umbrellas and sunbeds  for €20 a pair. It has a wider than expected canteen-type menu: fruit juices and salads, sandwiches, burgers – enough to satiate hungry kids.

Parking is directly behind the beach.

PROVOTAS

Provotas is a perfect little bay for toddlers in tow. Subtly stunning, with sparkling waters and powdery sand, the gentle seabed stays near-flat for more than fifty meters out. On the beach, the resident hotel (Golden Milos) rents padded sun loungers and offers refreshment for €50 a new island high of pair (as of 2024). Park directly behind on the road that runs parallel to the beach. There’s a shower near the exit for a quick rinse before you return to the car.

Provotas Beach Parking
Provotas beach bay with a small “organised” (with sunbeds and parasols for rent) section.
Provotas Milos Seascape
Powdery golden sand on Provotas and Agios Sostis are perfect for sandcastle building.

If you’re in the area and don’t mind throwing your towel down on the beach instead, check out neigbouring Agios Sostis. Harder to reach, follow a short dirt road before arriving at the start of a 60-step stairway down. The bay below also harbours shallow, crystal clear waters, and our favourite for a swim in perfect tranquility. There is no shade or amenities here, however, so arrive equipped and prepared.

Agios Sostis beach in Milos
The stairs down to Agios Sostis is pictured on the right of the beach when you’re viewing it from the water.

These southern beaches are the ones to head to for the calmest seas when the north “meltimi” winds blow fiercely .

PALEOCHORI & TOURLOS

The marvel of Milos’ volcanic past can be felt at Paleochori,  creating a kaleidoscope of colours and unique snorkelling sights. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are both transparent and full of colour. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). The seabed here gets steep quickly, and is better suited for young children on calm days – also when the beach is most beautiful. Check the wind direction, which should be blowing from the north for the best conditions.

If you can’t find sunbeds on Paleochori (the 2024 summer season saw the majority removed as operators await government permits), backup is within easy reach: quieter Tourlos beach is a half-a-minute’s drive away (put a Google map pin on Deep Blue cafe-bar – the stairs here lead down to the beach) with waters similarly striking.

Paleochori beach, Milos
Dreamy Paleochori.
Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos
Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos beach is a few minutes drive from Paleochori.

Three resident restaurant-bars spread out on its shores. Earth-toned Sirocco is the main attraction, well-known for its signature style of sand-cooked fare heated geothermically in pits. While it has all the romantic beginnings of being started by a fisherman who discovered he could cook an egg in its sand, it has now morphed into a modern boho-chic restaurant serving inspired and creative cuisine. Public parking is located directly behind Sirocco, although this gets packed out quickly. If you’re planning on dining at Pelagos, parking is available behind the tavern as well. 

Pelagos Tavern and Cafe, Paleochori
Mesmerising views at Pelagos tavern and cafe.

In the mood for aquatic action? PITS Watersports will equip you with jet skis, wakeboards, waterskis, SUPs, and an array of inflatables.

THE PORT BEACHES – PAPIKINOU (ADAMAS) & POLLONIA

Not destination beaches in themselves, but the port beaches of Papikinou and Pollonia are worth mentioning if you’re staying in the area. The sandy, tree-lined bays have waters both tepid and transparent. Cult taverna draw O! Hamos! have sunbeds and parasols for rent on Papikinou, while The Deck has furnished a corner of Pollonia with padded lounging comforts.

Papikinou Beach in Adamas Port, Milos
Papinikou beach on the fringe of Adamas, near the famed O! Hamos! taverna with sunbeds on the beach.
Jan 11, 2022 0 comment
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Destinations

Roadtrip to North Evia – Coastal Hideaways, Sizzling Seafood and Healing Spas

by Lindsay Dec 17, 2021
written by Lindsay
Saint Nicholas Beach in North Evia

What’s left of the evergreen Eden of North Evia after the wildfires of 2021? An island of simple and pure pleasures that is our second home, we share the attractions that remain to be enjoyed.


Last updated 6 June 2025

The 2021 inferno that engulfed North Evia was the biggest Greece has ever seen. Once a lush mountainscape of pine, oak, fir, and olive trees, 51,000 hectares of primary forest went up in flames in eight days. Along with the livelihoods of resin collectors, bee keepers, olive oil producers, and other agribusinesses. 

Ours was a farm of almond trees. So heavy with fruit their branches almost grazed the ground. After seven years of waiting for them to mature, they were ready to supply their first yield. But rather than the bountiful harvest anticipated, we walked through scorched rows of skeletons scavenging for nut hulls that looked salvageable.

We planned to take the girls for their first forest walk through Drymonas and its waterfalls at the start of the summer. But everything changed within a week. There is little left of its magic for this generation to enjoy.

The drive from Mantoudi to Agia Anna
What remains of once scenic drives from Mantoudi to Agia Anna after the wildfires

WHY NORTH EVIA?

Various reasons may continue to bring you to North Evia: It’s a gateway to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos) from Mantoudi’s port, the evergreen road to which was untouched by the fires. You might also be on a healing pilgrimage to Prokopi, also unharmed after a freak shower of rain uncannily occured after believers gathered at its church to intercede for a miracle. Limni and Agia Anna may have lost their trees, but their endless sea views are still a scene of beauty. And then there’s Edipsos – with its thermal springs and a renowned spa hotel – which escaped unscathed.

FIRST STOP: CHALKIDA

Entrypoint to Evia on the island’s closest point to the mainland, Chalkida is picturesque and petite. Sizable enough to support basic city conveniences for its 100,000 strong population, locals might be able to get their fill of Zara and Oysho, but have to head out to Athens for the cinema.

The city’s feature is a waterside promenade lined with cafes-bars and restaurants that is perfect for family strolls and kiddie scoots. Continuing past the old sliding bridge where you can witness the “crazy tidal waters” that riddled Aristotle himself, and you will find Asteria. An expansive outdoor waterfront bar and restaurant that hasn’t forgotten little ones, its family appeal include a fenced playground positioned within clear view of a section of dining tables. If we needed accommodation in Chalkida, we’d look between this part of the promenade and the center, or one of the seafront Airbnbs in Alykes.

  • Chalkida Waterfront Promenade
    Chalkida’s waterfront promenade.
  • Playground by the sea
    Playground by the sea near Asterias in Chalkida

Alykes is Chalkida’s summer highlight for us – a child-friendly beach only the locals seem privy to. With clear blue waters that lap over soft golden sand, it’s impressive for these parts (Evia’s beaches, for me, are nothing to shout about, and usually of the darker variety). Settled by an assembly of cafe-bars for every taste, Daluz at the far right corner (as you face the sea) is our favourite with wood-framed sunbeds, breezy electro tunes, and a gently sloping seabed clear of rocks.

Daluz beach bar on Alykes in Chalkida – one of the most child-friendly beaches in the region

THE ROAD TO MANTOUDI – GATEWAY TO THE SPORADES (SKIATHOS, SKOPELOS, ALONISSOS)

After exiting Chalkida, the drive north involves 40-minutes of dizzying twists (bring Dramamine for the car-sick prone) through pine-carpeted highlands, before meeting Kireas river. It used to be prettier here, with water-loving plane trees crowding its banks, filtering the light through leafy, cut-out canopies. But a recent imported sickness bringing targeted death to this tree species swept through, leaving skeletons in place of dense greenery.

Prokopi is the first village of interest you will meet, where many visit for the hope of healing at the church of one of Eastern Orthodoxy’s great saints, John the Russian. Tourist-geared shops stocked with Evian pine honey and other “traditional products” border its square, anchored by the church.

Prokopi village square and the Church of Saint John the Russian, North Evia
Prokopi village square with the Church of Saint John the Russian in the background
On the way to Mantoudi, Alexiou’s is a special café stop with expansive garden grounds
Loukoumades
Honey drizzled, cinnamon sprinkled, loukoumades doughnut balls

Mantoudi’s village center is a 10-minute drive from here. Once a proud regional center, magnesite mining factories used to drive the local economy. Now, like many Greek villages, it steadily diminishes in size and feels somewhat forlorn for the lack of upgrades. While not for sightseeing, it still harbours some exceptional stops: Stamatis – a first-class ouzerie serving mezze plates of fresh shellfish (also try the shrimp pane and fried peppers) in the corner of the main square, and a sizzling Souvlaki shop owned by the butcher next to it. On the village’s edge, you will also find Legola-nd, where the girls wobble through the forests and fields of Mantoudi on horseback with owner Thanassis.

Horseriding in Legoland Mandoudi, North Evia, Greece
Horserding in Mantoudi

Kimasi beach and port, a five-minute drive from its center, is where you can catch daily summer ferries to the Sporades. Of the high-speed variety, you can get to exotic Alonissos marine park in an impressive 40 minutes.

Kimasi Beach and Port in Mandoudi
Kimasi beach and port – gateway to the Sporades

AGIA ANNA – A FAMILY-FRIENDLY COASTAL RETREAT

Our preferred swimming beach in North Evia is where yiayia (Grandma) is from. An endless sweep of charcoal shores, Agia Anna is Evia’s longest beach, looking out into the gentle outline of Skopelos in the horizon. Pebbly on the “organised” end (i.e. providing sunbeds and food service) with cafes and taverns lining the boardwalk, the sandier, wilder bit is where four-star, simple-but-sleek Thalatta resides. Bringing a surprise bit of flash when it first arrived on the nonchalant village scene, its now a seaside destination in itself, fitted out with family-sized rooms (just be careful of stairs with toddlers), airy restaurants, and a rave-worthy kids club.

Agia Anna Beach in North Evia
Agia Anna Beach in North Evia

A tourist “hotspot” by North Evia’s laidback standards, Agia Anna has given us some of our most relaxed family outings. Including coffee and homemade banoffee under the Mulberry trees of Remetzo, while the girls play on the vaulted horse of a tree stump in front. Or dinners at Maistrali with a prime beachfront position and bushes to play hide and seek around. There’s also Trata for fresh seafood.

Some menu tips in these parts: order thrapsalo instead of fried calamari – distinctly more tender and tasty. And trade lobster in for crayfish – sublimely sweet and delicately succulent. The region is also famed for its specialty shellfish like gialisteres, chténia scallops, and razor clams.

Maistrali Tavern Agia Anna, North Evia
Seafront seafood dining at Maistrali

COASTAL DRIVES, SEASIDE TOWNS & THERMAL SPRINGS

A once especially scenic seaside road runs from Limni to Rovies and Edipsos in the northeast. And while the fires consumed Limni and Rovies, it self-extinguished in Ilia before reaching the thermal spring spa town and port of Edipsos.

  • Limni Seaside Village
    Limni seaside village
  • Limni Sea in North Evia
    The still, glassy waters of Limni.

Built on the wealth of ship captains, the seaside village of Limni is North Evia’s prettiest. With increasing tourism interest, once derelict neoclassical houses have morphed into slick cafes and cocktail bars, dotted with traditional tavernas in between. Because the waters of Limni (“lake” in Greek) are so still, there’s a particularly calming effect as you sit here for dinner or sundowners. Clear to its rocky depths, children catapult bread bits to feed a frenzy of fish, while ducks leave disappearing trails as they drift, and kaiki (wooden fishermen’s boats) bob on its ever-gentle surface.

Limni's beach
Family-friendly Kochyli beach in Limni is a 3-minute drive from its center

While you might find teens dive bombing off Limni’s pier, we gravitate towards Kochyli’s supersized family umbrellas for swims when Agia Anna gets too wavy. Calm and washed over by crystalline waters, its waters are good for tots with some care, as its pebbly seabed gets steep quickly.

If you’re looking for somewhere to combine a swim with lunch or dinner instead, drop your google map pin at Paralia one beach down. Complete with umbrellas, sunbeds, a bar, and a seaside taverna, there’s also a little playground next to it (albeit one that’s a bit run-down). Considering staying in these parts? Boutique resorts Elimnion and Eleonas with its 35-hectare organic farm sit on its hillside.

  • The beach at Rovies
    The waters in Rovies are calm, clear and very tranquil.
  • Rovies beach
    The free camping area, with Paralia Pine and Sand in the background.

A 30-minute drive from Rovies is North Evia’s most famous draw. The thermal springs of Edipsos drew all from Aristotle and Marcus Aurelius to Winston Churchill by the curative powers of its rich mineral content. A stately 19th century Thermae Sylla Wellness Hotel dominates the small spa town. Natural wells fill its pools daily with enriching waters saturated with metals and chemicals. While its indoor pool is only for guests over 15, infants and young children can enjoy it’s outdoor pool with sea water mixed into its spring waters. If you’re not a hotel guest, you can still enjoy the area’s therapeutic waters in the beach fronting the hotel where spring waters spill into the sea. 

FROM EDIPSOS, TO OMPHALOS

Also a small port, from Edipsos you can cross over by ferry (which also transports cars) to the mainland port of Arkitsa in 45 minutes. Why? Because in another hour-and-a-half by car you can find your way to omphalos – the center of the ancient world. Kings, warriors and other supplicants similarly journeyed here seeking guidance from the oracle of Delphi at the Temple of Apollo. Carved into the towering rocks of Mount Parnassus (also a winter ski destination), the temple ruins continue to elicit wonderment. Best visited with a guide, walk its expansive grounds in the cooler months of spring and autumn. 

GETTING THERE

Connected to the mainland by bridge, Evia is easy to get to. Chalkida (its capital) is a good day trip destination from Athens in under an hour’s drive. It’s also served by small ferry ports in Mantoudi, Edipsos, Agiokampos in the north, Kymi in central Evia, and Marmari and Nea Stira down south. There is no airport on the island.

Dec 17, 2021 0 comment
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Cyclades

Serifos is Stunning – An Essential Guide With Kids

by Lindsay Sep 29, 2021
written by Lindsay
Serifos view from the Chora

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.  


Last updated: 29 June 2025

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and sprawling estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Japanese monastery, devotees seek Zen in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s dramatic hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected outpost of a contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

On the road to Ganema, boutique design hotels with expansive ocean views dot the cliff’s edge.

With its wild and untamed allure, is Serifos family-friendly? Comparatively undeveloped, it doesn’t have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros. And while the “organised” (as they say in Greece, referring to beaches with cafe-bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds) bits of beaches are limited, other sweet spots offer amenities like tavernas on the beach.

Beyond the sand, there isn’t heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere. In this authentic, carnation-shaped island, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children: climb the low slung tree branches on the shores of Livadaki, build sandcastles on Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek), scale rocks at Ganema, make friends… Greek children are an especially friendly lot, and will often hover around other children, or even approach your taverna table to strike up a new playmate.

Climbing tamarisk trees at Livadakia, Serifos, Greece
Climbing tamarisks at Livadaki

My vote for the best thing to do on the island for families against its cinematic backdrop ? The family photoshoot. Dads may wince at the sound of this, but I have never brought home a souvenir from Greece I treasure more. As I tore the family from the beach and chased them like chickens to meet photographer (and award-winning island beekeeper) Nikos Kokolakis at 6:30pm at the Chora, I started to question the wisdom of my arrangement. But after sighting the artful keepsakes he delivered, I would do it ten times over again.

Family photoshoot in Serifos, Greecce

Serifos is one of the easier Cylcadic islands to get to. While flights are not an option without an airport, it’s just a two-and-a-half hour high-speed ferry ride away from Piraeus port in Athens.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port is an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with its conveniences (mini markets, bakeries, a pharmacy, seafront tavernas, cafés and gelaterias). Also consider neighbouring Livadakia if a good beach is important to you. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea here is a notch more beautiful than Livadi’s, with waters that are calm, clear, shallow, and bordered by wispy mounds of tamarisk crests.

The port of Livadi, also with the island’s longest beach and the calmest waters.

Alternatively, a selection of boutique hideaways dot the edge of the beaches of Agios Sostis, Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis (all just 10 minutes from Livadi). Thinking of the southern side? Vagia and Ganema located farther out also offer seafront accomodation, but are more isolated.

While Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital (“Chora”) draws with arresting vistas flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset, we would advise against this option. Strewn with footpaths featuring an endless terrace of double-height steps to battle with, it’s not designed for people with little legs. It’s also not designed for cars. As the evening sets in, you are likely to find yourself meandering through its streets to find parking for half and hour with one small public lot that quickly fills up.

BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches rival the best in the Cyclades. Those in the south-eastern quarter boast the turquoise and gold variety. Its southern shores have a dark and wild appeal due to the presence of iron oxide once responsible for its mining wealth. Here, we list the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives. Remember to have a plan for shade. It’s also a good idea to check the wind strength and direction before heading out, because instead of crystal calm waters, you might find heady waves when the north meltimi winds blow at 6 beauforts.

Serifos’ beaches are stunning (here at Psilli Ammos), including child-friendly options.

VILLAGE WALKS (AND CHILD-FRIENDLY EATS)

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both bite-sized, with a handful of smart boutiques and an unexpectedly pulsating nightlife in the square of the Chora. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi is the more interesting, with building remnants attesting to its mining history that are worth exploring.

— LIVADI —

Small, but complete, Livadi is where you will consistently return to for coffee (Indigo makes a good roast), ice cream (Scoop, or neighbouring Cherie for rainbow sprinkles on top), peponi (honey-sweet Greek melons) and peaches from the mini mart (K Supermarket is the most well-stocked),  and plasters from the pharmacy.

All-important gelaterias at the port of Livadi.

A diverse selection of tavernas line the waterfront. Most are squeezed close to the port, with little space to play. Head to the quieter side of the beach where Axinos sits for a thoroughly more relaxed setting. Oozing laid back cool in neutral platteted interiors, its menu is an enticing mix of modern Greek. You can order a lamb shank or T-bone steak, but seafood is the highlight, where succulent crayfish swim in silky risotto, and juicy-crisp grouper sits grilled on a celeriac bed. There’s also an exciting dessert selection to finish.  Take note that many restaurants in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 4 pm in classic Greek tradition), apart from beach tavernas. Check opening times before you count on being served.

Axinos seafood taverna in Serifos, Greece
Our favourite dining experience on the island – Axinos

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, I blinked twice when I spotted Blue Bamboo on Google maps. Asian food in Greek islands is typically not to be trusted, but this is the real Thai food transport from Athens. Unlike its cramped Athenian counterpart, its spacious boho-chic garden grounds are laced with fairy-light garlands for a festive atmosphere. There’s liberal ground for playful scampers in between tables, so parents can count on dining peacefully on pad thais, red curries, and tom kha gai (coconut based soup).

Blue Bamboo Thai Restaurant in Serifos
Thai foood relief at Blue Bamboo

Too tired to eat out? The “mageireio” is what you are looking for. Takeaway ready-cooked, home-style recipes from Taverna Marina by the port. Fronting its kitchen is a display of dishes ready to be packed to-go in a flash.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is an unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving a seemingly endless climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. Impossible with strollers, bring your baby carrier and trained glutes instead.

The Chora, with the parking lot pictured in the foreground. Image credit: Despina Galani.

Follow any flight of stairs upwards, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The diminutive heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and restaurants with tables spilling into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious eateries serving meze-type fare.

  • Square
    Agios Athanasios square in Ano (Upper) Chora at sunset.
  • Souvlaki Grill Bar in Serifos' Chora
    Stop by Skaraveos for succulent souvlaki in Ano Chora.
  • Town hall of Serifos
    Serifos’ neoclassical townhall.

Continue towards the castle top, resisting the temptation to turn back on the steep ascent through quiet residential streets. Even with kids. It won’t be long before you reach the church of Agios Konstantinos, teetering 823 feet above the sea with the most magnificent island vistas.

If anyone needs encouragement along the way, “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades (doughnut-like balls) bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked pork slices and fries stuffed in pita bread) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

It pays to visit the Chora in the early evening, giving you ample time before sunset to soak in the views. Parking anyways in the one public parking lot (near the bus station at the entrance of Ano or Upper Chora) is limited, so a headstart before the lingering beach crowds make their way will reward greatly.

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tall tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach, and he has an IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. But it’s also just a two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port. Sitting on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with an airport you can fly into), it takes just 20 minutes to cross over from Sifnos. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

FIND A FERRY TO SERIFOS

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Sep 29, 2021 0 comment
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Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Heavenly Holiday or Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021
written by Lindsay
Scorpios Mykonos

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing. 


🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏇🏻 🎨 🏛️

But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to find precious breathing corners on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees. We share them here.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – a stunning shoreline. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches in a country where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach,entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs. Not that I don’t appreciate the comforts that parasols and sunbeds provide. Especially as a young family with enough on our hands without umbrellas and chairs to think of. But when an entire beach is covered in beds, there is a feeling of suffocation.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece
While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In upscale Paraga, that’s €80 of burgers and club sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family frequenting the beach daily, the price tag is a hefty one for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from north Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats: 

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space on Elia, in spite of a sea of parasols. A slip of sand dividing the main from the nudist section allows free campers to throw their towels down. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in Maldivian shades of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is located right behind.  

Elia Beach Mykonos
Elia beach – after the rock outcrop at the end of the first beach, you will find the nudist section on the next.
— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Taking center stage is Lohan beach house, as subdued as its namesake low-key status after infamy in her younger, wilder years. With widely spaced-out sunbeds and a relaxing palette of-neutral toned interiors, this was an unexpected haven of contemporary cool.

Sparkling, shallow waters at Kato Livadi.
— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well. 

So after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed to revisiting the hangouts of our youth where we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach, in spite of the reputations of its resident beach clubs (Paradise and Super Paradise) on the islands most famous beach coves. Tropicana was our first stop on the stretch for no particular reason. And suggesting a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend, we settled here. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m. as the late-starters stream in. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, it starts at a bearable volume level with the day, but grows louder with the setting sun.

Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find local artisan Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we escaped to the waterfront one street away for a coffee. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot) or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece
Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys. 

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach. 

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos sits a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

Fokos Taverna
Fokos Tavern looks out towards dark, elemental and unorganised Fokos beach.
— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

Limnios Tavern Mykonos
Limnios Tavern with a sea view in delightfully drowsy Agios Stefanos.
— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a place worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails leading to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. Instead of soul-warming dishes distilled from the recipes of successive generations of Greek yiayias (Grandmas), minute portions of deconstructed fare were presented by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or stopping by to break the onward journey to another island. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the enduring magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures still hover over 20°C. Spring in Greece is also always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Avoid July and August at all costs. And while winter travel is possible, take note that many businesses start to close in late October. 

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. Refurbished in 2021, their Cycladic-cool airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two-and-a-half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

FIND A FERRY TO MYKONOS

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Sep 21, 2021 0 comment
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Destinations

A Sweeping Survey of the Greek Isles & How to Select Yours

by Lindsay Jan 26, 2021
written by Lindsay
Syros Ermoupoli

Last updated: Jan 2025

Where do your island dreams take you? Dark and wild or blonde and Maldivian-blue, we share some key considerations when selecting Greek islands to find your match made in Olympus.

1. What’s Your Scene?

The Greek islands of Milos, Kefalonia and Evia

WHITE & BLUE

I like my islands bare and rocky. Characteristic of the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Milos, Folegandros, Sifnos, Serifos, and other ruggedly handsome neighbours), this is where the country’s signature white sugar-cube villages with blue church top domes artfully blend into the stark silhouette of arid surroundings.

BLUE & GREEN

If you prefer luxuriant vegetation and tree-lined beaches to lay your mat under, try:

  • The Sporadic islands: Skiathos and Skopelos, both used as film sites for Mama Mia! And then there is Alonissos – a secret nature reserve rich in flora and fauna, and the largest marine protected area in Europe.
  • The Ionian islands: A cluster of islands in the Ionian sea less famous than they should be. Receiving three times more rainfall those in the Aegean, its lands are mountainous, green and fertile. Star attractions include cosmopolitan Corfu, Lefkada with bluer-than-blue beaches, Kefalonia, and the breathtaking Paxoi islands.
  • Andros: Two hours from Rafina port in Athens, Andros is a Cycladic outpost unlike its neighbours. It’s also the greenest, with hiking paths running through forested mountains dotted with waterfalls and springs. Once a maritime center, a stately Chora (an island’s capital) enchants with marble neoclassical mansions built by the shipping families that gathered.  
  • Samothrace: Next to Thassos is the quiet birthplace of the Winged Victory of Samothrace.  Bordering the coast of Turkey, this exotic boho escape is a natural wonderland. Rock pools, mineral springs, waterfalls and streams all nestle within its forested interiors. 

SOMETHING IN-BETWEEN

For a bit of both, where towering rocks blend into soft dense greenery, Kefalonia and Zakynthos have that sweep-you-off-your-feet effect with striking beauty. And for more drama, Meteora, Folegandros, and Amorgos also lure with impressive and imposing landscapes.

2. Airport, or Not?

Are you prepared to brave the Greek ferry system? If you prefer to fly-in, take note that most Greek islands don’t have an airport. Crete and Evia aside, there are 6 main Greek island groups (Cyclades, Dodecanese, Ionion, Sporadic, Saronic, North Aegean). Apart from the Saronic island group (closest to the mainland), each of the others have a handful of islands with a domestic or international airport. If you plan on island-hopping, its generally easier to choose islands within the same island group. There are also road trip options to consider.

3. Research Your Beaches

A Greek summer staple, the island hunt for us surrounds the quest for beautiful beaches. How do you like yours? Sandy or pebbly? Furnished with human comforts, or deserted and inaccessible by car? Or if you’re not bothered by beaches much, Santorini, Folegandros, Syros, Sifnos, Tinos, and Hydra are better known for their village attractions.

Beaches in Naxos, Crete and Chalcidice

THE CHILD-FRIENDLY NECESSITY

Beach hunting with kids has been whittled down to three-pronged search for shallow & still waters, sandcastle-fit shores, and sunbeds. They also should be easy to get to. The destinations with qualifying candidates are many and marvellous. Some of our family favourites include Naxos, Paros, Sifnos (without an airport), and Limnos.

ORGANISED & UNORGANISED?

Useful to know is the distinction between “organised” and “unorganised” beaches. In Greece, an “organised beach” is furnished with umbrellas and sunbeds. On quieter islands, you just have to be a patron of beach bar with the set-up. On busier islands, expect to pay anywhere from €5 to €25 a pair, or €40 to €80 if you’re on Mykonos.

An “unorganised” beach does not have umbrellas and sunbeds set-up. Look instead for a taverna or cantina nearby to supply food and drink .

If you are so brave to go unorganised with child and all your baby bits and bobs, a new world of options unfold:

Marble Beach, Thassos Island
  • Koufonisia and islands within the Small Cyclades (Schinoussa and Dounossa). Blessed with a string of show-stopping beaches you can enjoy in relative quietude, we packed our car in with beach gear so we could plant ourselves on Koufonisia’s glorious shores all day. 
  • Serifos: Psilli Ammos, Agios Sosis… Serifos has a diversity of unspoilt beaches to explore.
  • Elafonisos: Because two is better than one, double-sided Simos beach in Elafonisos is a road trip option nicely combined with a visit to medieval Monemvasia castle town. 

4. Deserted or Developed?

Nammos Shopping Village in Mykonos

Are you looking for an elemental island escape with unpaved roads and beaches unblemished? Or polished alleys leading to Louis Vuitton around the corner from YiaYia’s (grandma’s) house? For tourists easily repulsed by tourism and development, Greece has much to offer. But then there are untouched, and untouched gems you really want to visit. Alonissos, Lemnos, and Ikaria (where people live longer) are some that promise restoration for the world-weary.

You may, however, (as I do) appreciate a sushi break between taverna visits and chic island shopping. Jet set-savvy destinations like Santorini, Mykonos and Paros lie on the other end of the spectrum.

Practical-sort-of-parents seeking sufficient development to include large supermarkets and access to better-than-basic health services should pick larger islands (e.g. Crete, Corfu and Rhodos), or a mainland destination like Chalkidiki. Syros (Ermoupolis), capital of the Cyclades, is also self-sufficient with large supermarkets and a full hospital.

5. Choose Your Village

Perfect summer days in Greece end with evenings exploring villages: cafes and kafeneios (traditional coffee houses where grandpas gather), ouzeries and bars, tavernas in vibrant village squares, pretty boutiques, Greek orthodox churches, petite archaeological museums with priceless treasures, and possibly, a castle. 

Greek Villages in Symi, Rhodos and Santorini

Cycladic villages hold a special place for me. With minimalist architecture, clean lines, white and cobalt blue contrasts, a soulful surprise of life reside behind perfectly uniform exteriors. Tourists flock to Santorini primarily to enjoy Cycladic village beauty blessed with incredible vistas (the beaches in Santorini are not to shout about). For a purer experience of Cycladic villages without the crowds, try Sifnos.

Looking for a different village vibe? Consider Syros and Symi, with neoclassical houses that stand elegantly in a festival of colours. There’s also little but impressive Hydra, where cars are not allowed. Stone-built mountain villages like Pelion are another kind of special with a fairytale-likeness to them.

6. Find Your Perfect Hideaway

Sometimes the idyllic vacation villa determines our choice of island. Particularly when we have found a beach house steps away from pristine waters.

In Greece, we usually pick an Airbnb estate over space-starved hotel rooms and common pools for stays over 3 days. Professionally run and practically equipped (with washing machines, kitchen equipment, travel cots and high chairs), bi and tri weekly cleaning services are also common. Where to look? Seaside villages (with swimmable beaches) are an ideal set-up. Suggestions include: Plaka in Naxos, Aliki in Paros, Platis Gialos in Sifnos, Livadakia in Serifos, Panormos and Skopelos, Votsi bay in Alonissos, Mylopotas in Ios, and Batsi in Andros.

Another tempting option for families are luxe beach resorts that lure with babysitting, back-to-nature kids activities, aqua parks, morning yoga and massages. Acclaimed names include: Costa Navarino (Mainland Messinia – two hour drive from Athens) with its string of luxury hotels, Amanzoe (Porto Heli), Sani (Chalkidiki), Porto Zante (Zakynthos) and Daios Cove (Crete). Prefer to nestle in closer to nature in a sort-of camping option that will be a hit with kids, with all the frills mom loves in a holiday? Try Ergon Beach House in Chalkidiki.

7. Pick an Adventure

There may be little left of the ancient ruins that remain, but there is something that moves me in the presence of historical rubble. The better preserved archaeological digs include: the uninhabited island of Delos (around which the Cycladic islands circle around, and a daytrip option from Mykonos), Akrotiri (Greece’s Pompeii in Santorini), the Minoan palace of Knossos (Crete), and The Temple of Aphaia (Aegina). Kos, birthplace of Hippocrates, boasts a significant collection of sites to explore alongside great beaches, including the healing center and Sanctuary of Asklepion.

Knossos Palace and Delphi

On the mainland, notable attractions aside from the Parthenon include Delphi, Mycenae, Olympia and Temple of Apollo Epicurius.

You can even combine archaeological exploits with adventure sports. Keen on diving through an underwater archaeological site? In Alonissos resides the “Parthenon of shipwrecks”. Dating back to 425 B.C., recreational divers will be able to visit the undersea antiquities museum later this year.

Alternatively, drop the historical focus entirely. Hike, windsurf, river trek, cycle, rock climb, go whitewater rafting … There’s a world-class environment for most adventure sports. And of course, there’s sailing.

Culinary adventures are not to be missed on these fertile, sunbaked lands where farm-to-table is the norm, not a novelty. Go on a wild edible mushroom hunt in the forests of Epirus. Join an olive harvest in September and October. Discover up-and-coming wineries gaining worldwide attention. Even on hedonistic Mykonos, you can find a farmstead for kids to unearth their meals. Or simply, just eat. While good food is everywhere in Greece, Sifnos and Tinos have reputations for standout gastronomy.

Jan 26, 2021 0 comment
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