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Destinations

More Than Mama Mia!: A Perfect Family Escape in Skopelos

by Lindsay Jul 18, 2024

written by Lindsay

Beyond the emerald-sapphire beach coves and that enchanting chapel in Mama Mia’s film sets, Skopelos is full of beautiful surprises and irresistible charm.

Located opposite North Evia where we live, sometimes your nearest neighbours are the easiest to overlook. Until they brought the island to our literal doorstep with the launch of a summer ferry service from our home in Mandoudi. It became silly to continue to ignore. What did we discover on Skopelos?

Thoroughly family-friendly, Skopelos is unexpectedly, and quite exceptionally, attractive. Mama Mia! may have inspired boat tours that descend on otherwise calm beaches in a frenzy of ABBA, but otherwise, the island remains relatively unadulterated. So far escaping the degradations of development, it maintains a refreshingly relaxed authenticity.

Skopelos has also got edge. A new wave of entrepreneurs have set up Asian bistros, cantinas in the forest, and superfood-focused cafes. On a low-key roll, here’s how to maximise your itinerary when you’re in the company of tiny travellers:

THE SWIMMING SCENE

Like its sister islands (Skiathos, Alonissos and Evia) in the Sporades, Skopelos is lush. Fringed by pine tree forests, its luminous green and blue bays are cinematically beautiful and pristine. Even on busy beaches, vendors and guests seem to be an environmentally-conscious lot, keeping them cleaner than I have seen on the beaches of other popular islands.

*Stafylos bay, resplendent in the quintessential colours of Skopelos.*

Unlike the fine golden sands of neighbouring Skiathos, many of Skopelos’ beaches are a mix of pebbles and coarse shingle—Pack a set of Posca paint pens for the children to transform smooth white pebbles into holiday keepsakes. The trade-off is that the seabed often shelves away quite steeply, so little swimmers will need closer supervision.

Which bays are best suited to families? Here are the ones we’d happily return to.

VILLAGE CHARM

Skopelos’ Chora (main town) was designated a Protected Traditional Settlement of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1978, and it’s easy to see why. Along its stone-paved waterfront—pedestrianised in the evenings—terracotta-roofed houses rise amphitheatrically up the hillside, while mulberry and plane trees lend welcome shade to the seafront promenade. Unlike the dry Cyclades, there’s always a tree-shaded bench for baby to sneak a snooze on with Dad, while Mom slips off into Jasmine-scented back alleyways for a bout of island shopping.

Skopelos town waterfront — *The waterfront boulevard of Skopelos’ main town.*

Within tangled village streets designed to confound marauding pirates of the time, a colourful mix of tenants line and surround the Old Town walkways. The Skopelitan variety is polished and progressive in a uniquely Greekly-charming way: A coffee cum juice bar serving gluten-free bread helmed by a bearded, ponytailed barrister, a local micro brewery and bar, and locally-celebrated Rodio – a pottery shop specialising in bold, black earthenware made with a patented process… As night falls, warmly-lit boltholes glow with dark handsome barmen housed within. This is the kind of village I wouldn’t mind living in.

Main town (Chora) of Skopelos — *Village walks.*

There’s more if you venture up towards the Venetian fortress, taking the seaside stairway where the 16th century Church of the Virgin Mary sits. Whitewashed and pared-back Donkee is a chic cocktail bar with ambrosial sips, soothing tunes, and sublime views that take centerstage. Cycladic style Anatoli near the top has tables scattered over terraces that open out into breathtaking vistas. The walk up is not the easiest for young kids, but doable, and best attempted in sneakers.

Anatoli Taverna in Skopelos' Chora — *The walk up to the Venetian fortress rewards with sublime views. Stay to dine at Anatoli or have cocktails at Donkee.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

The whole point of a Greek island summer is the beach. And when you’re travelling with young children, there’s enormous value in staying close enough to wander back for forgotten toys, lunchtime naps or an afternoon escape from the heat. For us, that means choosing accommodation no more than a five-minute walk from the sea. Look into accommodation at the seaside villages of Stafylos and Agnotas with waters that are both lovely for swimming, and not more than an 8-minute drive from the Chora where you are likely to be spending many evenings. While the beach at Stafylos is nicer, Agnotas is more complete with a café for morning espresso hits and mini mart popsicle stops.

Dominated by boutique hotels and apartment rentals, Adrina is one of two five-star resorts on the island if you enjoy a bit of luxe. Sitting aloof on the edge of Panormos, this is another covetable swathe of sand to seek accommodation in. Complete with an array of village amenities, Panormos a 20-minute drive out from the Chora.

DINING WITH CHILDREN, TAKEOUT & A SWEET STOP

Dining comfortably with kids for us means spaced-out tables in sprawling grounds. Or after a particularly adventurous day, better yet if we can bring the restaurant home to us. Here are some tasty tables that fit the bill:

— STOU DIMITRAKI (CHORA) —

It’s quite possibly a rule that the best tavernas are not the tourist traps clustered along the Chora waterfront. Looking on the outskirts instead, Stou Dimitraki is a buzzy-casual joint with a wide and well-priced menu. Our highlights: a velvety psarosoupa (fish soup), octopus in wine sauce, and baked eggplant.

— MOURIA FISH TAVERNA (AGNONTAS) —

Korali, we were told, was the place to dine at in the small port of Agnontas. But the sleek spot with menu options like scorpion fish carpaccio and tuna tartare felt like a mismatch with our fresh-from-the-sea savages. Instead, we gravitated towards the tables under the Mulberry trees (Mouria in Greek) at the water’s edge. Tucking into our usual seafood taverna assortment of fried zucchini, grilled sardines, shrimp pasta, cuttlefish with spinach (excellent), and grouper with onions (plaki), it’s the kind of long drawn out dining experience on the beach that is quintessentially Greek.

Mouria Seaside Tavern in Agnontas, Skopelos — *Classic Greek island seafood dining at Mouria.*

— MANOLIS (NEO KLIMA) —

Neo Klima transports you to traditional Greek village quietude before the rise of mass tourism, just a 6-minute drive from Kastani. Apart from a traditional menu of grilled seafood and chops, Manolis offers a buffet of ready-cooked meals that a Greek mom would lovingly prepare in her home kitchen: Oven-baked young goat (“katsiki”), “special” chicken and bell pepper stew, soul-warming gigantes (giant bean stew)… The draw of this set-up? Kids can preview their meals before they are dished out to avoid disappointment. And post-meal, a generously-sized playground next door is the perfect controlled environment for watching tiny tots run wild on a full stomach.

Manolis Taverna in Skopelos, Greece — *Dining in quietude (and a playground next door) in Neo Clima.*

— TAKEOUT —

After a long day out, you might just want to kick-back and dine on just about anything at home. Pita gyros aside, there are more enticing takeout options in Skopelos. Azan is a magerió in the Chora – a type of eatery serving traditional homecooked recipes prepared ahead, and ready to serve. Gourmet Street Food nestled in forest groups complete with play equipment and farm animals serves sandwiches, burgers and gyros if you’re on the way back from the southwestern beach strip.

— BARRAMES (CHORA) —

Just about every waterfront cafe and taverna in Skopelos has an ice-cream counter onsite. But few are homemade, like Barramarres in the middle of town. Amidst a giddying variety of flavours to choose from, regionally inspired spin-offs like Galaktoboureko (a beautiful Greek custard pie) and Kunefe (a Turkish sweet cheese pastry) standout on the menu. The winning touch? Hanging swing chairs for the kids to rock in while on their sugar high.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

June and September. With climate change heating up peak summer months unbearably and unpredictably in July and August, these are increasingly clear times to avoid for us. Note: The ferry from Mandoudi may only start operating from mid-June. Schedules are typically released in late Spring.

GETTING THERE

There’s no airport in Skopelos, but a few ways of arriving by boat. Fly into Skiathos and take a 30-minute ferry (Seajets high-speed ferry operates the route from Mandoudi – Skiathos – Skopelos – Alonissos in summer), drive to Mandoudi in North Evia (2 hours) from Athens and take a 2-hour ferry, or drive to Volos in mainland Greece (3.5 hours) and take a 2-hour ferry. Most ferries allow you to drive your car on board as well with its own ticket.

FIND A FERRY FROM SKIATHOS

Input your planned travel dates below to find ferry schedules and pricing from neighbouring Skiathos.

Jul 18, 2024 0 comment

Sporades

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES IN SKOPELOS

by Lindsay Jul 18, 2024

written by Lindsay

Family beach trips can be a bit of a mission. Thankfully, the best of Skopelos’ beaches are perfectly positioned to take the added heat off your summer outings. Furnished with sunbeds and umbrellas so you don’t have to bring your own, they provide lounging comforts without being overrun by cafe-bars. Distanced just far enough from the Chora (main town) to feel special, a good selection of the best beaches are not more than 10 or 20 mins away from its amenities. And while they might get busy, the vibe is never rowdy.

Finding the best beaches for young children is also about finding calm. Sheltered from prevailing northern winds, the south-west coast is a good place to keep to. Panormos, Agnontas and Stafylos in particular are well-tucked into land. It’s always smart to check the wind before your visit and aim for these on windy days. Just note that the rest of the island is likely to be doing the same, so start your day early to secure sunbeds on the beach.

PANORMOS

A sheltered bay framed by pine tree-carpeted rock, Panormos is beautifully tranquil. Even when there’s a crowd. A plethora of beach bars, cafes and tavernas spill onto the gravelly shoreline, giving you the option to go from breakfast to lunch, coffee and dinner in the quaint seaside village. The waters at Panormos tend to be especially calm, and are well-suited for young swimmers. Just watch for the seabed drop a few meters out. Head to Kastani for a gentler gradient.

Espresso Snack Bar offers a basic umbrella and chair set-up (with a €10 minimum spend), while khaki-clad Kraken (with a €25 minimum spend) next door is the upscale option with thickly-padded, wood framed sunbeds and bean bags strewn around. A possibly helpful mention: Clean toilets at Espresso Snack Bar made for a more relaxing time when the kids needed a toilet trip. Cars park wherever they can find along the road behind.

KASTANI

Of Mama Mia! fame, this cosy cove with relatively shallow waters shimmers in dreamy hues of turquoise and blue. And while the colours of neighbouring Milia are similarly beautiful, Milia’s seabed is paved with slabs of bedrock that make walking in with little ones difficult.

In cozy Kastani, a lone, wood-decked beach bar starts from a grassy lawn, filtering into the shoreline. The downside – periodic boat arrivals disgorge a gaggle of tourists causing a small bout of mayhem for 2 hours. On windy days, Kastani is also likely to be wavier than neighbouring Parnormos. If you’ve had enough burgers and sandwiches on rotation, there’s no taverna onsite for proper meals, but plenty to choose from a 5 to 8 minute drive away. Ample parking is available directly behind the beach bar.

STAFYLOS

Cliff-backed Stafylos is quaint, but complete. Umbrella and bed rentals are available for €10 a pair from the makeshift bar in the middle of the beach. Don’t judge quality by appearances – they make surprisingly good coffee and serve a decent menu of sandwich and fruit salad type snacks.

For a proper meal, head to the tavern upslope. From the roadside “parking area”, a quick ramble 50 steps down through a bit of forest will bring you to its entrance. Quite likely, Takis and Katerina are at the foot of the stairs weaving waxed macrame bracelets. Here, my little big spenders found souvenirs for all their friends back home. Even for picky ones with unwavering colour preferences, Katerina whipped up custom options as we lay on the beach.

Stafylos is located just 8 minutes away from the Chora (main village).

Jul 18, 2024 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos or Paros? Find your Greek Island Match

by Lindsay Jan 25, 2024

written by Lindsay

While Paros has suddenly become fashionable, how does it compare with neighbouring Naxos, described by historian Herodotus as the “happiest of islands”? Each with its own share of sparkling shores (some of the best in Greece), Cycladic village charm, cultural attractions, an airport and other family-friendly conveniences, a distinct personality difference separates the two. Here’s how they weigh-up:

If dining well for you sounds more like ceviche and champagne than a Greek salad and moussaka, choose Paros.

With polished facades set in insta-perfect corners of whitewashed villages framed by tumbling bougainvillea, the scene in Paros is curated and cosmopolitan. In Naxos, even the snazzier restaurants have a laidback way about them. Picture nursing an ouzo over grilled octopus with sand between your toes, while the children scamper around sprawling tavernas. The most fertile island in the Cyclades, Naxos also attracts with the wholesome goodness of food grown and grazed locally.

The shopping in Paros is similarly elevated, with artisan boutiques like Yiannis Sergakis fine jewellery and Todd Marshard ceramics to swoon over.

_{^{Pictured above, from left: Fine dining in Naoussa, Paros ; dining in Kastraki in Naxos}}.

If you’re looking for design-forward hotels and swanky villas, Paros is the savvier.

The Greek island haunt of the moment for designers, celebrities and the well-heeled, a string of luxury properties have sprouted up in Paros. It also has more beachfront properties set right in the sand scalloping the island’s gentle coastline. Step off your porch, and a few skips away, you’re in the sea. A perfect setup for families with young kids.

Naxos’ accommodation options are not without good looks, stylish suites, and swoon-worthy comforts. You’re just less likely to find Aesop toiletries in your bathroom, hot stone massage services, and a sushi bar on your property.

_{^{Pictured above, from left: 5 star Avant Mar in Paros, and Seaside Naxos boutique villas in Plaka}}.

If you appreciate an assortment of beaches for every mood, Paros is more impressive.

Swim between the exotic rock sculptures of eccentric kolymbithres, the golden windswept shores of surf hotspot Chryssi Akti, or the twinkling privacy of Faragas bay.

While Naxos is larger and has a longer coastline, most of the swimming takes place in what is essentially the same length of beach on the island’s west coast. Dreamily clear and sandy, expansive horizons backed by beach bars dominate the busy end (starting from Agios Georgios), emptying out as you head south.

_{^{Pictured above, from left:}} _{^{Kolymbithres beach in Paros, and Mikri Vigla beach in Naxos}}.

If you’re a naturist and enjoy quiet communes with the countryside, Naxos has diverse swathes of untouched land.

Hike to Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. Roam authentic mountain villages that feel lost in time, and explore stone-paved footpaths leading to springs, waterfalls and Byzantine monuments. Smaller and flatter, Paros’ countryside is more developed and infiltrated by an extensive road network.

Jan 25, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Winter Holidaying in Greece: Surprising Kalavrita

by Lindsay Jan 04, 2024

written by Lindsay

A winter retreat with ski runs named after Greek Goddesses like Leto and Alkimini, Kalavrita is nestled in alpine prettiness a 2-hour drive from Athens. It also has plenty of family-friendly, off-slope attractions to offer.

The idea of skiing in Greece may raise some eyebrows, but its soaring peaks harbour a clutch of winter wonderlands that are arguably as attractive as its cult beach draws. If you’ve heard of one, it’s probably Arachova. Locally known as the “winter Mykonos”, an apres-ski scene draws glitzy Athenians who swig cocktails to chase the cold away.

Equally close to Athens is Kalavrita. A cozy mountain village offering child-friendly activities connected with its natural beauty. From the village center, a ski center and school sits a 20-minute drive up the slopes of Mount Helmos. While there are no ski-to-door accommodation options here, ample parking is available. It’s a good alternative for late planners (like us) to otherwise overbooked, overcrowded, and heavily-priced Swiss or French Alp itineraries.

There’s more to Kalavrita beyond snow sports. Sitting in a National Park resplendent with geomorphological diversity, a cog train ride snakes through the vertiginous Vouraikos river gorge, then down to coastal Diakofto for a seaside lunch. You can also visit a spectacular cave phenomenon with subterranean cascading lakes. In Planitero village, fish farmers set up tavernas by river source waters and grill fresh-caught trout to serve. And of course, there’s the mandatory Greek village square to explore, where stone buildings cluster around a Christian Orthodox church anchoring the main square.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

It’s always a good idea to stay close to main villages where supermarkets, cafes, tavernas and bakeries gather. In Kalavrita, more ideal perhaps, is slightly higher up in the restorative silence of the mountains, where the pine-scented air is especially crisp, and valley view vistas leave you feeling a little lighter each morning. Thanasis’ chalet set in the slopes of Koklos is a 7-minute drive from the main village. Drawn to the light-filled, wood-panelled cabin, his cosy mountain hideaway wasn’t just exceedingly enchanting, it was complete. Right down to a fridge fully-stocked with milk, eggs, bread, and other breakfast essentials.

Kalavrita Airbnb — *A mountainside chalet dream a 7-minute drive from the main village*

As we settled-in, the kids zipped from the basement playroom, out onto the verandah and its beam-slung swing, then wandered into the kitchen for snacks where they discover a magical cornflake dispenser. And the highest highlight? The sweetest dog Rhea that stands guard outside which they adopted for the week. This was their dream of the ideal Airbnb.

THE MAIN VILLAGE SQUARE

From our chalet in the mountains, we made easy trips in the mornings and evenings to cafes (Utopia for coffee and custard-filled bougatsa breakfast takeaways), the bakery, and tavernas.

The main village walkway — *Village walks in the main town.*

To Spitiko was memorably delicious. Translating to “home” in Greek, in the warm, wood-clad enfolds of a small mountain taverna, it felt like that. Our meals were a beautiful balance of traditional with an artful touch of a talented chef to elevate. The highlight for me was oven-baked arni (goat), with melty breaks of flavour-filled fat between the meat. The children finished their rooster in red sauce and pasta with little coaxing. And if you have weaning toddlers in hand, gigantes is a giant bean tomato-based stew that works well for smashing into baby purees. We returned to take away meals for dinner at home the day after.

In the heart of the square, Montana cafe-lounge seemed spacious enough to accommodate fidgety kids. Plunging into leather sofas by the fireplace, we wind-down with walnut pies, crepes and hot chocolate.

ODONTOTOS TRAIN

The Italian-built cog railway might be more than 120 years old, but it’s a modern, compact “Smart”-like train car that takes passengers on a slow chug around near vertical cliffs of the Helmos – Voraikos gorge. Following the river down to the Gulf of Corinth, the ride is scenic, but it’s also long. An hour each way, my 3 and 6-year olds were much less captivated by the magnificence of nature slipping by our windows, and quickly grew bored after the initial excitement of a train ride.

The train station in the village centre — *The train station is in the center of Kalavrita’s village.*

If you make the trip anyways, bring snacks to keep little ones busy. Other key tips: book your ticket online and in advance before showing up at the station. And when you do, keep in mind that it’s not clear from the seat plan that every two rows turn inwards to face each other. Select successive seat rows accordingly if you plan to sit together as a family.

Kalavrita Train Ride Views — *Scenic, but slightly boring for young kids.*

You might also want to travel on a weekend. When we arrived in sleepy Diakofto on a Tuesday at 12:10pm, most of the village restaurants were closed. Quite a plight with little else to do before the return train departs at 3pm. Check ahead to make sure the taverna you plan to visit (our sights were set on seafront Kohili) will be open for lunch plans in between. But if you find yourself in the same situation as us, try Kostas grill. More of a meat place, but because his brother owns the fish monger a few doors down, we had a hefty kilo of calamari and fried barbounia (red mullet).

THE SKI CENTER

Rising up to 2,340m at its highest point, Kalavryta ski resort presents enough challenges for experienced skiers with 14 ski runs (including a black run) and 8 lifts. Its facilities are otherwise basic, including the requisite base cafe cum canteen for espresso hits and savoury pies. Ski lessons can be arranged for children from 3 years, while a snow fun park offers additional entertainment for the less adventurous. Undergoing a series of upgrades, a brand new cable car was also installed this year taking groups of 10 up mid-slope.

Kalavrita Ski Center — *The new cable car ride at the ski center.*

THE CAVE OF LAKES

In an astonishing 2-kilometer long cave complex in Kastria, a subterranean river has carved out remarkable sculptures within the 3 floors of its limestone walls. A steel pathway of crossings and bridges take you through fantastical stalactite and stalagmite forms, and over miniature lakes that fill over when the snow melts. It’s an easy walk even for a 3-year old.

Don’t skip over the museum at the entrance (it should really be your first stop). Nondescript on the outside, it surprises with modern, interactive displays within. There’s also a guide to take you through the exhibits.

Cave of Lakes Museum in Kalavrita Greece — *Don’t skip over the easy-to-miss museum at the entrance to the Cave of Lakes.*

PLANITERO

A 5-minute drive on from the Cave of Lakes, the source of the river Ladonas springs from the lush grounds of sleepy Planitero village. These are the mountain forests of a storybook, where crystal clear waters gush through streams and rivers that sparkle under the dappled light of the winter sun filtering through walnut, plane and oak trees.

Two tavernas have set-up fish farms around these springs, raising river trout, salmon and sturgeon that will jump from farm to your fork. Fish Farm is situated in manicured garden grounds that are also home to an unexpected population of swans and other domesticated fowl – a diversity of play pals for kids in tow. Rustic Planitero has a larger menu, including an impressive number of ways to prepare your fish. Baked in cognac-filled parchment, or roasted with almonds? The options are a salivating spread of flavour-dense dishes.

WHEN TO VISIT

The village gets decked out for Christmas from 13 December, recalling the holocaust of 13 December 1943 when the male village population was exterminated by the occupying German army. December is early for snow if you plan to ski. Greece’s ski season typically runs from January to February, and is when the village is busiest.

Jan 04, 2024 0 comment

Destinations

Island Wilderness and Wildlings – A Guide to Karpathos with Kids

by Lindsay Sep 02, 2023

written by Lindsay

Kyria Panagia Beach in Karpathos, Greece

Adrift off the southwestern reaches of Greece, Karpathos is remote. With a view towards North Africa in the distant horizon, what does this far-flung and little-known island have to offer?

The iridescent colours of its Instagram beach images first lured us. Along with a reputation for windsurfing, and romantic stories of mountain villages akin to living museums untouched by time. In spite of its impressive roster of attractions, you will still hear little of Karpathos. But as steadily as the asphalt road to Olympus completed in the 1970s, luxe villas are beginning a creep from its crystalline shoreline.

After exiting the airport, continuous blasts of wind remind us that we have arrived in wilderness. This is what makes the island the best windsurfing spot in Greece. It’s also why you will be a little hard-pressed to find child-friendly swimming on the island. At the same time, as we zig-zag through the craggy rockscapes of lofty mountains and azure seas below, the beauty of this land is immediately captivating. Combined with some well-researched choices, Karpathos can be a beautiful and easy adventure with kids.

Trees in Karpathos — So windy on Karpathos its trees grow sideways

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

While the island is not huge, travel times are made longer by winding roads through its mountainous spine. I was slightly taken aback when I discovered that visiting Olympos, the island’s main village of interest, was going to require an hour’s drive from our apartment rental in Amoopi.

Stay where your main interests revolve. With young children among us, ours reliably surround the beach, shifting our focus on the southeastern bit of the island.

— AMOOPI SEASIDE VILLAGE —

Palm tree studded Amoopi is my pick for where to stay with young children, just a 10-minute drive from the conveniences of Pigadia port. Entirely touristy, but relaxed, picturesque, and complete with tavernas and mini-marts.

Dimitrios Fishermans Taverna in Amoopi Karpathos Greece — Dimitrios Fisherman’s Taverna set above the sparkling shores of Amoopi

Two sparkling bays sit a short walk from each other, with the cutest Cycladic church sitting prettily in blue and white on a headland outcrop. The beaches crowd out quickly. Which is why it’s a particularly good idea to live nearby (Onar beach house and Nymfes boutique resort occupy stellar spots) – snag a sunbed at 9-ish in the morning, and return after the kids have taken an hour to finish their eggs at home.

— PIGADIA PORT? —

The benefits of living in and island’s main town are always attractive for families. And while Pigadia port is convenient, it’s not the prettiest. The waterfront stretch and lane running parallel behind offers the usual charms of most Greek villages, but the built-up area behind leads into concrete volumes of ’80s pensions and a messy assembly of apartment blocks.

St George's Church in Pigadi, Karpathos Greece — Light a candle in St George’s Church in Pigadi, just behind the waterfront

Still, we spent many nights in Pigadia. Insider tips: If you’re dropping in for dinner and groceries, Ariadne supermarket in the center is open until 11 pm ( the usual time is 9 pm), so you can complete dinner, get your groceries and return home. Of the 3 pharmacies here, we found Taskirigou a little further up and past St George’s church the most well-equipped.

CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACH BAYS

Blustery winds play a big role in enjoying the beach in Karpathos (or not). The Aegean’s “meltemi” winds blow from the northwest in summer, turning the western shoreline into a fierce frenzy of wind-whipped waves.

The island’s eastern shores harbour calmer waters, with the meltemi blowing from land to sea. On this covetable stretch, coastal beauties cater to every beach style. In the north, pebbly, pine tree framed waters in exotic turquoise and deep blue hues. Moving south, Caribbean-like bays feature sandy and shallow waters that stretch out for great lengths. Our favourite pool-like enclaves are found here.

Damatria beach in Karpathos, Greece — The shallow waters of dazzling Damatria

Bring strong beach towel clips, and perhaps bath robes (which stay on better) instead of towels for little tots. In the peak of summer, sunbeds and shade are hard to secure. So be disciplined – make an early start, or prepare to visit late (around 5pm) as the crowds retire. Still can’t find a spot? Throw your towel down onto the beach with just a few more hours till sunset. Lastly, goggles or snorkel masks are worth their luggage space. From wide-eyed flounder skimming over a seabed dotted with hermit crabs to the long snouted cornetfish, Karpathos teems with abundant sea life.

OLYMPOS

Still in touch with the traditions of a forgotten time, Olympos is an encounter with life lost to modernity. Previously difficult to reach, access now is easy. An asphalt road offers a smooth but snaking cliffside drive that requires caution. There are hairpin turns throughout (not a fun ride for the car-sick prone), dual lanes merging into single lanes, and falling rocks which have knocked off parts of the road’s protective rails. Wild goat sightings get more frequent as you close in on Olympos, and never fail to excite the kids.

There were fewer tourists than I imagined when we arrived at 4 p.m. A hot time to be exploring any Greek village in July (even from these heights), but its narrow walkways are mostly shaded.

“Living museum”, as it is often described, is perhaps a slightly romanticised encapsulation. Still, Olympos is an especially charming Greek village. Cloaked in the sentimentality of things past, yiayia (Greek for grandmother) continues to crochet traditional headscarves for tourists to don. In a female-centered village (often described as a matriarchy) following an exodus of work-seeking men, she had to develop self-sufficiency on the isolated mountain top (without electricity until 1970) in the neighbouring fields of Avlonas. Fierce keepers of their Byzantine heritage, she must have so many stories to tell. For a more than superficial experience of the village and it’s traditions, take a guided visit with Ecotourism Karpathos.

Exploring Olympos Village in Karpathos Greece — Exploring village walkways and enjoying the bright colours of artisan handicrafts

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

Rock climbing, trekking, windsurfing, boat trips to Saria and Kasos, Karpathos has lots to offer older children and teens wanting to try their hand at a variety of sports.

Chicken bay is the beginners windsurfing playground, where our younger girls splashed around in shallow, crystal waters, watching dad at his lessons every morning.

DINING WITH KIDS

After seven days of circling the island for a good meal, I’m going to put it out there – Karpathos has a lackluster dining scene. For us, that is. Menus tended to repeat a small selection of the same dishes, and execution was somehow always lacking – too much bahari (a local spice), too little salt… Just very unlike the luscious meals the Greek islands usually spoil us with in our journeys. Perhaps it’s because they mainly cater to tourists – you find few Greeks from Greece in these way-out parts. Or maybe we just continuously made a poor selection of choices. Here is our selection of better dining experiences with great ambience to make-up for flavour.

— LIFE OF ANGELS (PIGADI) —

The best spot in portside Pigadi for a meal is not right by the busy waterfront and its line of moussaka-touting tavernas, but one level above at Life of Angels. The sun-speckled yard with a bamboo thatched roof draped over with grape vines has a full view of the sea. For full cover from the afternoon sun, head through the indoor area and out into the covered balcony (with limited seating). It’s a pure experience with a history going back to the mid-1800’s. Owner Zoe’s mom makes the bread, uses organic ingredients sourced locally, sharing recipes passed down from her family’s kitchen. The roast chicken thigh with rice with tomato-flavoured rice saw the kids having their most successful meal on the island.

Life of Angels tavern in Pigadia, Karpathos Greece — With a history that goes back to the 1800s, Life of Angels has the best spot in Pigadi

— FINIKI MAMA CUISINE —

In the middle of the quiet family beach of Finiki, the eatery under a thatched roof of dried palm tree leaves is buzzing. Mama’s spin on traditional seafood favourites (fancy a hint of curry in the shrimp pasta?) refreshes tired taste buds. While there isn’t a lot of space for fidgety kids, there’s a beach right in front for a walk or run mid-meal.

Mamas Tavern, Finiki, Karpathos, Greece — Seafood by the sea at Mama’s

— UNDER THE TREE —

Under the Tree is perfectly placed with swathes of space opening up into the sea one level below. Dipped in gold, it’s magic at sunset. The menu is a simple, no-nonsense selection of grilled meat and seafood. The tables fill quickly from 7 pm (a few visitors were turned away without reservations), but the service is also brisk.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We visited in August, but Elias, our Airbnb host, mentions the best time to visit is in September. With its southerly location, like Crete, the sea is still warm in September and perhaps October. The sun is also less intense, the days, less windy, and you won’t have trouble finding sunbeds on the beach, or parking in Pigadia.

HOW TO GET THERE

Unless you’re happy to take a 14-hour ferry trip from Athens, it’s likely you’re flying into Karpathos. There are also international flights from Italy, Belgium and other European destinations. Otherwise, you can combine it with an itinerary including Crete and Rhodos – its only near neighbours.

Sep 02, 2023 0 comment

Destinations

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Karpathos

by Lindsay Aug 31, 2023

written by Lindsay

Where the “meltemi” winds (Aegean summer north winds) blow mightily, finding a beach in Karpathos for kids is a lot about finding calm (unless they enjoy tempestuous waves). The island’s east coast presents gentler conditions, more sheltered than the exposed west from the usual prevailing wind direction. Moving from north-east to south, the shoreline graduates from gravelly with an exotic blue-green beauty, to the sandier bays of the south-east that sparkle in the colours of the Caribbean.

We list our favourite paddle-friendly finds here. Hats might still fly off, and unsecured beach towels risk fluttering into the sea, so bring towel clips and ponchos or bathrobes (instead of towels) for kids. There’s also snorkeling fun to be found in waters teeming with sea life – don’t forget goggles or masks.

DAMATRIA

Like a scattering of sapphires and diamonds stashed at the foot of a gentle mountain slope, Damatria is a bejeweled sliver of paradise. A sea of mushroom-shaped parasols fill its wisp of a shoreline from end to end, but fails to feel crowded. Generously spaced out over two rows, the beauty of nature engulfs.

As we work our way down a short, rocky slope, pebbles give way to sand. Little D yells “I want to swim there!!”. It’s like a pool. She effuses excitement in every new discovery in her first 10 minutes. “I can see a thousand fishes mama! I’m still walking and it’s still not deep!”

Poseidon delivers cocktails, coffee and bites on a lone motorbike shuttling between the beach and its restaurant above. They have a reputation for good food (of the inventive variety) and the longest wine list on the island. With an enchanting terrace set above the beach, it’s a sensible place to move onto for pre or post swim meals.

Arriving at 5 p.m. (when many beach trippers start leaving), we found parking right next to the entrance. Either start early in the morning, or early in the evening to ensure you secure a sunbed.

AMOOPI

The two sparkling bays of Amoopi (“Big Amoopi” and “Little Amoopi”) are framed by ruggedly handsome rock cliffs that attract young jumpers. Pale blue and shallow for an impressive distance, its waters are thoroughly welcoming. Little snorkelers paddle all around, popping up each time they discover a hermit crab or other on the seabed.

Little Amoopi
Big Amoopi
Plentiful dining options in Amoopi

The beach coves are small, and crowd out quickly. We are told by the sunbed warden of Little Amoopi that you need to arrive by 9 am or 9:30 am to secure a spot. If you are as poorly organised in the mornings as we are and fail to find a spot, head up to Nymfe’s cafe for drinks and set your base there instead.

DIAKOFTIS

Elysian Instagram images of diakoftis are drawing attention to this known secret paradise off the southernmost tip of Karpathos. A dirt road (still navigable if you don’t have a four-wheel drive) takes you right up to the beach with two sides, and a café sitting in-between. Partly-organised, shade and loungers are also available here if you arrive early enough.

LEFKOS

A small tourist village in north Karpathos, Lefkos is a family hotspot. Backed by tavernas, mini marts and cafes, the main settlement overlooks the sea from elevated ground one floor above the shoreline. It’s perfect for first swimmers, with honey-hued sand gently slipping into a light blue pool. Kids build sandcastles on the beach, frolic in doughnut floats in the water, and sit with popsicles from the mini-mart above the beach. Before you reach for the same, consider Lyra and friends for homemade baklava or brownies instead. Parking is tucked into the right hand corner of the beach (as you face the sea).

Lefkos beach and village
Shall, calm and child-friendly waters are rare on the west coast of Karpathos
Swap a Ben and Jerry’s mini cup for Lyra’s for homemade sweets.

Aug 31, 2023 0 comment

Destinations

Meteora’s Monoliths: How to Scale its Clifftop Monasteries with Children

by Lindsay Aug 17, 2023

written by Lindsay

Set in the heavens and seemingly out of reach, are the spellbinding sights of Meteora accessible to children?

Above the flat plains of Thessaly, a scattering of sky-scraping monasteries straddle the peaks of soaring monoliths. Meteora is a geographical and man-made marvel. First, there are the rocks – an unlikely assembly of sandstone pillars carved out by 60 million years of weathering. Then, its 9th century hermit monks. So compelled to seek solitude they scaled vertiginous cliffs to take refuge in its cavities. In time, they organised their efforts to build 24 monasteries, starting with The Great Meteoron. Hauling up material (and themselves) with pulleys, ropes, ladders, nets and baskets, 6 of these engineering feats remain open to visitors.

Baskets used to haul up supplies to Varlaam Monastary — *Drawing supplies up to Varlaam Monastery*

VISITING WITH CHILDREN

Reaching heights of up to 400 meters and isolated by design, is it possible to visit these monasteries with kids? Recently made accessible by roads, bridges and stairs hewn into its rockface, some are easier to reach than others.

Agios Stefanos monastery in Meteora, Greece — *The garden grounds of Agios Stefanos monastery – the easiest to get to in Meteora*

— THE MONASTERY OF AGIOS STEFANOS —

A visit to Agios Stefanos Nunnery requires no steps at all. A short stone bridge takes you from the main entrance to the holy complex -a fortress-like masonry broken up by open courtyards and gardens with magnificent views you would expect from 575 meters high. It’s an impressive sight to behold, but still not as breathtaking as Varlaam Monastery.

— THE MONASTERY OF VARLAAM —

Parking can be a pain at the monasteries. With tour buses huddled around Varlaam’s entrance, my husband unloaded us at the main gate to continue the search for a parking spot. The tree-shaded, sun-dappled lookout point to the side of the gate turned out to be a lovely place to wait. We settled beside an artist flicking through bright Faber-Castell pastels as he sketched the monastery above, and the rocks beyond. Varlaam has a special enchantment.

Past the main gate, a wood bridge stretches across a deep gash separating the destination monolith from ours. Crossing it will bring you to the base of steps first carved out in 1921. There are 150 steps or so, according to an ever-interrupted count as the girls find themselves riddled with questions at this opportune time. And while any number over 100 sounded intimidating with kids, this turned out to be well within the sufferable reach of a 3-year old. If you’re making comparisons to determine the easiest way up with kids, unlike the Holy Trinity monastery (of James Bond fame), Varlaam doesn’t require a 1 km walk preceding the steps up.

Stairway to Varlaam Monastery — *About 150 steps up to Varlaam Monastery*

The €3 per person entrance fee (children under 12 and Greeks excepted) has been well appropriated in a series of upgrades. The stairs up are sleek as slate – an artful contrast with the craggy rock face they cut into. The monastery grounds are also beautifully manicured. Built around a courtyard over a series of terraces, narrow walkways with arched entrances separate secret corners, intimate chapels, wine storage rooms, and a museum. As we scuttle through corridors with the excitement of being in an Alice in of Wonderland type adventure, I am relieved to find that most passageways appear to magically open up into a central courtyard adorned with terracotta-potted flowers and mini cypress trees. Taking shade under a pavilion perched on the rock’s edge and a panoramic view of what’s beyond, I feel closer to God already.

The Monastary of Varlaam, Meteora — *Thoroughly beautiful, the Monastary of Varlaam has undergone recent renovations*

Remember to dress appropriately (long skirts and sleeves for women, shorts above the knee for men) on your visit. Also take note of opening times which change according to the season.

WHERE TO STAY

Kalabaka town (and its conveniences) or quieter kastraki village, it doesn’t really matter. Both stand at the foot of the rocks and connect via a short ring road.

Divani (of the reputed Athenian chain) is the finest hotel in Kalabaka, with a pool that is especially attractive at the end of a strenuous summer walk. Alternatively, Harmony House is a 3-bedroom apartment rental with thoughtful details that make it especially appealing for families. Apart from the benefit of space to accommodate zealous kids, there is the option for home-made meals, non-toxic amenities, a playground directly opposite, and the village square around the corner for coffee, tavernas and mini marts. There’s no air conditioning, but we found this to be unnecessary in the beginning of July with ceiling fans in every room. The house is also 100 meters from the foot of a stony walking path through dense vegetation leading to the Holy Trinity monastery. A steeply inclined, but scenic trek (only recommended for older children), it takes 40 minutes before you reach the steps at the base of the monastery.

The stony pathway up to Holy Trinity Monastery — *The 40-minute hike up to the base of the stairs to Holy Trinity monastery*

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Our Greek summer this year stretched from mid-June to mid-August, and was disrupted by two heatwave spells in between. With significant stairs to mount to discover the area’s highlights, the last thing you want is for your visit to coincide with a week-long 40 degree Celsius heatwave. Spring and autumn are better times to visit, with fewer crowds and crisp air that’s perfect for hiking. The only downside of “shoulder season” is higher chances of rain and cloudy skies. You can also visit in winter with possible snowfall in January and February.

HOW TO GET THERE

Located in central Greece (and far from its coastal attractions), Meteora is a 4-hour drive from Athens, or a 2-hour drive from Thessaloniki (Greece’s second largest city with an international airport).

Aug 17, 2023 0 comment

Cyclades

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Paros

by Lindsay Jul 06, 2023

written by Lindsay

Paros is circled by coastal gems. Where do you start if you have limited time and twitchy tots with little patience for exploring? Stunning Kolymbithres is hard-to-miss with sparkling bays framed by eccentric rock-sculpted beauty. But you’re likely to have to jostle with crowds of sunseekers for the slivers of space between its boulders. Golden Beach sounds like a winner. But high winds that make it a windsurfers playground can be off-putting for beach lounging.

With our girls, we look for shallow, calm, fuss-free, along with crystal clear, in addition to somewhere where an iced coffee is within easy reach. So where are the dreamiest, most reliable waters in Paros? From north to south, here are three:

MARCELO

So close to Parikia you can see it in the distance, the sheltered port waters of Marcelo beach make this one of the calmer spots for pool-like swims in bright blue seas.

Parking is located right behind the sunbed-free end of the beach that graduates into rocky shore pocked by rock pools. Little D loves catching shrimp, spotting hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks to uncover surprises within its cavities. There’s quite a bit of sea life to keep you company in the waters as well, so bring goggles or a snorkeling mask. Take a stroll towards the beach bar (there are two you can rent sunbeds and umbrellas from) and you’ll find a mini jetty where kids take endless turns jumping off into adult waist-deep waters.

Rock pool at Marcelo beach, Paros — *Hunting for sea life in Marcelo beach*.

Backing its shores, a scattered assembly of beach houses overlook its beauty. It’s the perfect set-up for young families that understand the singular conveniences of beach living.

SANTA MARIA

Wide, expansive, and probably the most beautiful stretch of sand in north Paros, Santa Maria’s transparent waters shimmer in the faintest shade of blue stretching as far as the eye can see. This is where the “towel movement” of Greek residents seeking to reclaim free beach space began, keeping part of its grounds blissfully bare and noise pollution free. Two beach bars continue to rent sunbeds and umbrellas for EUR 30 to 60 a set, and parking is directly behind.

FARAGAS

Faragas cafe and restaurant on the southern tip is on our favourite stretch of sand. Located in one of three stunning coves that make up Faragas, the beach has crystalline, sheltered waters that are calm even on the windiest of days. Parking is right behind its palm tree studded grounds, and the restaurant and bar, just meters from the beach. With thickly padded sunbeds, summery soundtracks, and cocktails on-call, we were in parental bliss when we first discovered this with D as a baby.

Jul 06, 2023 0 comment

Destinations

Day Trip from Athens: Chalkida (Evia) with Kids

by Lindsay Jun 07, 2023

written by Lindsay

Evia’s nondescript capital is not an obvious destination for tourists and Athenians alike. Its draw for us? Family-friendly attractions, relaxed seafood dining, and a lovely beach within an hour’s drive of Athens.

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Gateway to Evia, Chalkida links Greece’s second-largest island to the mainland via two bridges spanning the narrow Evripos Strait. With its ease of access, why isn’t it more popular than it is?

Without the obviously breathtaking to draw souvenir-seeking crowds, it’s easily overlooked. While I wouldn’t recommend it as a priority for a first trip to Greece, it makes an good day trip from Athens or a worthwhile stopover en route to Mandoudi, where summer ferries depart for the Sporades.

Here are five of our favourite haunts and activities with the kids in Chalkida:

1. WATERSIDE PROMENADE WALKS (& EATS)

Built along the Evian Gulf, the city’s waterside promenade is perfect for slow family strolls and kiddie scoots. Start from the iconic 19th century Red House on the northern end, where an assembly of cafes boasting elevated sea views sit beside wide open spaces where giggling children play tag.

The walk towards the old bridge is lined with trendy cafés and touristy moussaka-touting tavernas on stand-up banners at the entrance. The better restaurants are found past the old bridge where it gets quieter on the waterfront. Tsafaki is a modern ouzerie we keep returning to, where Evia’s exceptional shellfish and seafood are the stars of the menu. Just a few doors down, Euvous steakhouse pairs beautifully executed meats with a parade of standout appetisers.

The old drawbridge connects the mainland to the island at the strait’s narrowest point. Linger long enough and you might notice the “crazy waters” that confounded Aristotle with water currents that change directions eight times a day.

Past the bridge, a 10-minute walk down, is outdoor beach bar and restaurant Asteria. Here, the self-consciously hip gather for cocktails and club beats, alongside families that hover around a fenced playground. This is a space for everyone.

2. THE (MINI) FUN PARK

Close to the city square is a mini fun park that’s just the right size – not too large so adults are not hounded into spending hours, but with a handful of attractions for a brief fill of fun. A mini bumper car ring and eighties-era amusement park aside, trampolines by the sea are perfectly positioned for a sunset bounce.

A mini fun park by the water in Chalkida City — *Trampoline by the sea*

3. BISKOTOGLYCO SWEET BOUTIQUE

Beside the Byzantine Church of Agia Paraskevi on Avantes Square lies one of our favourite sweet stops in Chalkida. Here, traditional Greek desserts sit alongside contemporary creations, each layered with the kind of textures and flavours that are the stuff of cake dreams. But it’s the velvety soft serve and artisanal ice cream the girls make a beeline for every visit. From this central spot, you’re not far the city’s main pedestrian-only shopping street (Avanton). From the square, it’s only a short stroll to Avanton, the city’s main pedestrian shopping street. If you’re navigating by Google Maps, simply pin Zara and you’ll find yourself in the heart of the retail district. Nearby, Piato is well worth a meal. Its calm, Scandinavian-inspired interiors provide the backdrop for beautifully executed modern Greek cuisine, while an excellent burger ensures even the fussiest young diners leave happy.

*Biskotoglyko – a mandatory sweet stop in Avantes square*

4. ALYKES – ROCK POOLS & BEACH BARS

Better than most beaches around Athens—and typically less crowded, though you’ll still want to arrive early for a sunbed on summer weekends—Alykes became our regular escape for a cooling dip when we lived in the capital. Its soft, pale sand and luminous turquoise waters feel almost out of place on rugged, volcanic Evia, offering a striking contrast to the island’s darker, wilder coastline.

For families, it’s an especially easy beach day. A string of welcoming beach bars lines the shore, several with playgrounds and bouncy castles that happily occupy younger children while parents linger over another coffee or leisurely lunch.

Daluz beach bar in Alykes, Chalkida — *Daluz is one of many family-friendly beach bars in Alykes*

Daluz is our favourite in a quieter corner at the far end, with a shallow seabed that stretches for a distance, and decent-for-a-beach-bar fare they can serve to your beach lounger. Alternatively, kick-back on grassy lawns of Ippokampus under the shade of mulberry and fig trees.

On the edge of Alykes’ sandy stretches are rocky outcrops that only became truly fascinating after we had children. Their easy-to-reach rock pools teem with marine life. Endless are the hours they spend watching shrimp and baby fish dart between rocks, collecting and releasing tiny hermit crabs, and dislodging rocks in search of crabs and slithering brittle stars.

Rock pools in Alykes beach, Chalkida — *Uncovering crabs, catching shrimp, and looking for hermit crabs in the rock pools of Alykes*

5. SEASIDE SEAFOOD DINING

Seafood is a highlight in Greece. And in Evia, there’s more to get excited about. Home to varieties of shellfish only available in these parts, Greeks come to Chalkida to feast on exotic, fresh-caught delicacies. Paleologos is a seaside tavern where our meals stretch for hours, in part because the kids find joy in running in circles in the little garden behind.

Palaiologos Taverna Chalkida — *Chalkida is renowned for fresh fish and shellfish, and Palaiologos is our go-to seafood tavern*

In it’s largeness, Evia doesnt quite feel like an island. But twenty minutes out from Chalkida’s city is Nea Artaki with a distinct island vibe, and more seafood taverns to choose from.

Nea Artaki in Chalkida — *Nea Artaki seaside village 10 km north of Chalkida*

Jun 07, 2023 0 comment

Cyclades

Andros: For Family Adventures Within Easy Reach of Athens

by Lindsay Nov 25, 2022

written by Lindsay

Greece has many well-kept secrets.

How accessible Andros has stayed that way is as miraculous as its wealth of attractions.

🏖️ 🍙 🥾 👨‍🌾

Andros is a fortuitous anomaly: Rugged and dry in the west, but bountiful and lush in the east. Home to a wealth of attractions, yet hardly popular. Cycladic, and more. Close to Athens, and still largely undiscovered.

Having been on the road in Greece for three months, we were tired of overbooked islands and long ferry rides. Ease and convenience took priority. And what did we discover? You don’t always have to travel far to find treasures both exotic and enigmatically engaging.

Andros arguably boasts the best family-friendly beaches you will find within a 2-hour ferry ride from Athens (the stunning beaches of Serifos excepting, with less frills, however). And within the folds of four mountain ranges, a plethora of off-beach attractions lie. Its village scene is also lovely. Built on the wealth of shipowners, neoclassical homes sit next to nondescript museums with incredible collections. Not just archaeological, but modern art exhibits that once included Matisse, Miro, Picasso, and other luminaries in its lineup.

And of course, there’s the food. Local ingredients take centre stage, elevated by the island’s rich agricultural bounty. At even the humblest taverna, a Greek salad may arrive topped with a mousse-like spoonful of homemade feta, whipped from the milk of goats grazing on fertile meadows nearby.

Agios Petros Beach Andros, Greece — *Agios Petros beach on the island’s family-friendly west coast*.

With a wealth of experiences to offer, seven days on the island was just enough. Here are our favourite family-friendly picks and top tips from the trip:

WHERE TO STAY

While Andros is large, where to stay is relatively straightforward depending on your interests. For swimming on repeat, the coastal stretch from Agios Petros to Batsi is scalloped by family-friendly beach coves with accommodation options located directly behind. If inland mountain and village adventures has greater appeal for you, the main town (Chora) in the east is well-placed. And if you’re divided between the two, seaside Batsi is close to the island’s covetable child-friendly beaches, while shaving off 10 minutes from the otherwise 50-minute journey east from Agios Petros. Alternatively, divide your stay and time between both coasts.

— AGIOS PETROS —

On the island’s honeyed western coast, a smattering of apartments have sprouted behind the clutch of beach shacks on lazy Agios Petros. Conveniently situated, key provisions like a bakery (a very good one), a mid-sized supermarket, even a general supplies store (with a great section of arts and craft supplies for kids), and an excellent pizza parlour make this an attractive, low-key option for families.

— BATSI —

Batsi is enchanting. A harbourside village without the portside-touristy ugliness of many, this cutest of coves has an assortment of café, tavernas and useful amenities (pharmacies and mini-marts) encircling its bay. There’s also especially good ice-cream at Yo N Ice for a sugary high before a splash at the not-bad resident beach.

— CHORA (MAIN TOWN) —

Where neoclassical mansions tumble down a gentle hillslope onto a spit of land jutting out into the sea, cinematic Chora is a beautiful jumble of cafés, tavernas, child-friendly squares, and museums. From Plateía Girokomeíou (the large square by the public carpark near the outdoor cinema), a central stone-paved street leads you to its end, anchored by a commanding bronze statue of “the unknown sailor” overlooking the remains of a small Venetian castle. Wide, pedestrian-only, and smooth enough for strollers, pit stops for coffee, mezze, and ice-cream give tired little legs a chance for a break. The Museum of Contemporary Art is a highlight, with an impressive line-up of summer programmes for kids and teens that might even be something to plan your dates around. The centre of island life and a cultural hub, Chora is also a convenient base for exploring 4-million-year-old Foros cave, Pythara waterfalls in Apika, and other villages: aristocratic Lamrya, Menites with its lion-headed fountains, and seaside Korthi.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Andros’ iconic beaches (like the island pinup Tis Grias To Pidima) that intrigue with wild and dramatic beauty are unfortunately hard to reach with small feet in company. At the same time, there’s no shortage of dreamy swims you can enjoy without involving perilous journeys. Accessible, shallow, and organised with sunbeds and parasols, here are our three favourite tot-friendly splashing grounds with parking located directly right behind.

— GOLDEN SAND —

With far-reaching shallow waters to embolden any water-weary 2-year old, this is our top choice for the best child-friendly swimming. There’s only one bar to be found on the small arc of soft golden sand, and while its service at the time was nothing to rave about (to put generously), the swimming was splendid.

The cozy arc of sand at Golden beach has one beach bar providing sunbeds, parasols and refreshment.
Shallow, aquamarine waters at Golden beach,

— AGIOS PETROS —

A lengthy neighbouring stretch of pristine coast, the waters here are similarly pretty. Although sand speckled with bits of rock makes it slightly less comfortable if anyone wanted to roll around on the shore in their swims. Beach-shack type bars separated by makeshift bamboo dividers give it a hippie-chic appeal. Kaliva distinguishes itself with the relaxed elegance of draped curtains, and is where we settle down. Perhaps it’s the friendly service, the sleepy sunset, or very decent tipples, but all is infectiously relaxing.

Kaliva Beach Bar, Andros, Greece — *Linger for sunset at rustic chic Kaliva on Agios Petros*

— KYPRI —

With a main draw being watersports, we weren’t sure if there was much for little D in Kypri. Until a 4-year old boy coaxing a tiny surfboard along the shoreline floated across our sunbed. Inspired, she wanted to do the same. Vasiliki from the professional crew at Wesurfin had a free slot for us. In her playful way with kids, she guided D out on a mini windsurf, showing her some basics, as they ventured far beyond her usual paddling grounds. Also a restaurant and beach bar, Wesurfin is as serious about their sport as their food (bistro favourites with a luxe spin): burgers cooked to medium-well juicy perfection with sweet potato fries, pork tenderloin, and reliable pasta options for kids. Alternatively, Flivo next door is a relaxed, child-friendly hangout (complete with baby changing tables and a playground behind) that can also mix a good vodka tonic.

If you’ve come just for swimming, however, the beach here has a plane of rocky seabed, and slightly murky waters stirred by waves.

The professional and friendly crew at Wesurfin

OFF-BEACH

Wind through Andros’ windswept ribbon of streets and an Alice in Wonderland fill of adventures await. If, like us, you revel in countryside encounters for the nature-naive like sheep and goat sightings, picking figs on a gentle hike to a waterfall, or collecting acorns on the walk back from a cave, you will love Andros as much as we did.

— FOROS CAVE —

Would being engulfed by Gaudi-esque sculptures in cold, musty darkness be a nightmarish experience girls? As our uphill walk to the cave grew from 5 to 15 minutes, so did my concern. Unexpectedly, this turned out to be our 4-year-old’s most (positively) memorable experience that summer.

Lead by Google maps, we parked in a dent on the roadside opposite a sign that read “350 meters on foot to Foros cave”. This didn’t sound too intimidating. But the thing to know is that a lot of that walk is uphill. Part of a hiking route, the stoned-paved path is nonetheless a scenic one. Mostly unshaded, bring hats.

Exploring Foros Caves with kids in Andros, Greece — *Descent into darkness in Foros cave*

At the top, a lone cave guide awaits with a smile like a pitstop in a bizarre fantasy adventure. She takes groups in one at a time. If others arrive, there’s a waiting area tucked into the hillside, complete with (very clean) toilets and a water fountain for refilling water bottles. To my sweaty post-trek delight, our guide whipped out hair nets to place beneath our hard hats as we geared up for the journey. The girls were happy to don their own dinosaur versions, and even happier to be handed torch lights for the descent into darkness.

The steep and narrow path down is tricky if you have children to mind, but we managed with rails to guide us along. And while much of what was said on the tour was beyond her, little D enjoyed the experience enough to enthusiastically want to return.

— PYTHARA WATERFALLS —

Admittedly short of spectacular, I attempted this mainly for the experience of finding some waterfall to explore. The walk is 20 minutes long, but easy. It’s not something I’d suggest if you’re tight on time (especially if you’ve got the cave and chora already in a day’s itinerary, as we did). But if you have an afternoon to spare, little ones will find joy in frog and tadpole hunting, dragonfly spotting, and skipping over water pools from boulder to boulder.

Unintuitively, you park at the sign to Pythara waterfalls that seems to lead to nowhere. It’s located right by a small house where a side alleyway will take you to a tree-lined path that gradually fills with the sounds of water.

— 3MELISSES ORGANIC APIARY —

An apiary tour had been on my mind since D started asking about the pastel-coloured boxes she frequently spotted in honey-producing Evia where we live. But finding none there, some combination of words in Google search led us to 3Melisses in Andros. While it’s not part of the usual experience they offer, Katerina and Lefteris warmly welcomed us to their off-grid mountainside laboratory. Between bites of cheese, spoonfuls of a spectrum of honey types, and playing with Lefki, the family dog, we went from observation hive to processing facility, gaining an insightful glimpse into the magic of honey production.

3Melisses, Andros, Greece — *Looking for Queen bee in the hive of observation*

— CHORA —

It’s amazing how a simple square can elicit so much pleasure for children. As we walk up to Chora’s largest by the unexpected retirement home, the girls take off running. Once you’ve coaxed them out from the crazed circuit, take the stone walkway to the smaller square where cafés line-up offering food and refreshment along the pedestrian-only pathway.

Kairi square, surrounded by cafes, eateries and museums.
The statue of the Unknown Sailor overlooking castle ruins.

In most Greek island Choras, we wouldn’t suggest strollers or dining in typically tight alleyways with kids. But Andros’ Chora has wider-than-usual streets uninterrupted by too many stairs. Mod-chic Endochora with fancy cocktails is celebrated for a novel take on local cuisine. Or for a quick crepe stop with tired kids, try Las Strada.

DELICIOUS DINING WITH KIDS

From farmhouse and seaside dining to our vote for the best ice-cream in the Cyclades, these are the gems serving standout food in settings that indulge children equally.

— KOSSIS FARM —

When yiayia (grandma) says papu (grandpa, who stayed behind this trip) would love this meat place, you understand that it is something special. Truly sumptuous, we decimated 500 grams of lamb chops quite easily while the kids devoured their bifteki (burgers without the buns). But Kossis is more than just a seriously good tavern. Ducks, fowl, cows, ponies, and even deer roam its grounds to make this a family attraction as much as a dining destination. And if that’s not joy enough for parents, its large clean toilets come complete with a baby changing table.

Deer spotting.
Ducks and other game in their swimming pool.

— TO STEKI —

Another tavern set in a family-friendly patch of land on the way to Foki beach, To Steki has a large menu of traditionally-loved fare. Although admittedly, the real highlight here is being able to dine with a view of the kids on swings, slides, and in the company of a resident pony.

— MASTELLO —

After one-too-many classic Greek meals, Mastello was a welcome respite of modern, gastronomic heaven. Our purist slant initially cast a shade of skepticism on dishes like the “tarama trilogy” (a traditional fish roe spread) presented in three perfect rounds, but the creative spin on classic Greek cuisine was faultlessly executed. Don’t miss the Amberjack with celery and leek puree. And the buttery crayfish orzo with exquisite depth of flavour. If you’re with kids, consider reserving the tables on its beachside set-up.

— YO N ICE —

It’s not easy to make gelato that balances guilt-free sugar levels with indulgent pleasure, but Yo N Ice does just that. What’s even better? Having it stuffed in warm Tsoureki (a sweet bread) and spread over with hazelnut praline.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main summer tourist season runs from June to September. We usually aim for June and September to avoid the intensity of the heat (and heat waves) in July and August. After September, the island starts emptying out to leave behind a clutch of residents you can count in the thousands.

If you’re visiting for other reasons than the beach, Spring (April and May) is a beautiful time on Andros, with wildflowers colouring verdant valley landscapes, and herbs that scent the air. Ferries to Andros operate year-round.

GETTING THERE

While it doesn’t have an airport, the ferry to Andros is a good alternative to air travel. With connections departing from quieter Rafina port (20 minutes from Athens International Airport), this is a much less chaotic experience than journeys from Pireaus. Because of its proximity to the mainland, the boats travelling there are not usually the high-speed vessels with airplane-type seating, but larger superships with cafe-style seating, a shop, and ample space to roam. If a flexible schedule allows you to choose brands, pick Golden Star over Superjets. Better maintained, cleaner, and more generous with space, they have always provided a better ride for us.

FIND A FERRY TO ANDROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Andros from Pireaus.

Nov 25, 2022 0 comment

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