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Destinations

The Quiet Drama of Serifos: A Family Guide

by Lindsay Sep 29, 2021

written by Lindsay

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.

^{Last updated: 29 June 2025}

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and sprawling estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Zen monastery, devotees discover the original self through meditation and yoga in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s dramatic hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected outpost of a contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

*On the road to Ganema, boutique design hotels with expansive ocean views dot the cliff’s edge.*

With its wild and untamed allure, is Serifos family-friendly? Comparatively undeveloped, it doesn’t have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros. And while the “organised” (as they say in Greece, referring to beaches with cafe-bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds) bits of beaches are limited, other sweet spots offer amenities like tavernas on the beach.

Beyond the sand, there isn’t heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere. In this authentic, carnation-shaped island, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children: climb the low-slung tree branches on the shores of Livadaki, build sandcastles on Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek), scale rocks at Ganema, make friends… Greek children are an especially friendly lot, and will often hover around other children, or even approach your taverna table to strike up a new playmate.

Climbing tamarisk trees at Livadakia, Serifos, Greece — *Climbing tamarisks at Livadaki*.

My vote for the best thing to do on the island for families against its cinematic backdrop ? The family photoshoot. Dads may wince at the sound of this, but I have never brought home a souvenir from Greece I treasure more. As I tore the family from the beach and chased them like chickens to meet photographer (and award-winning island beekeeper) Nikos Kokolakis at 6:30pm at the Chora, I started to question the wisdom of my arrangement. But after sighting the artful keepsakes he delivered, I would do it ten times over again.

Serifos is one of the easier Cylcadic islands to get to. While flights are not an option without an airport, it’s just a two-and-a-half hour high-speed ferry ride away from Piraeus port in Athens.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port is an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with its conveniences (mini markets, bakeries, a pharmacy, seafront tavernas, cafés and gelaterias). Also consider neighbouring Livadakia if a good beach is important to you. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea here is a notch more beautiful than Livadi’s, with waters that are calm, clear, shallow, and bordered by wispy mounds of tamarisk crests.

*The port of Livadi, also with the island’s longest beach and the calmest waters.*

Alternatively, a selection of boutique hideaways dot the edge of the beaches of Agios Sostis, Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis (all just 10 minutes from Livadi). Thinking of the southern side? Vagia and Ganema located farther out also offer seafront accomodation, but are more isolated.

While Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital (“Chora”) draws with arresting vistas flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset, we would advise against this option. Strewn with footpaths featuring an endless terrace of double-height steps to battle with, it’s not designed for people with little legs. It’s also not designed for cars. As the evening sets in, you are likely to find yourself meandering through its streets to find parking for half and hour with one small public lot that quickly fills up.

BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches rival the best in the Cyclades. Those in the south-eastern quarter boast the turquoise and gold variety. Its southern shores have a dark and wild appeal due to the presence of iron oxide once responsible for its mining wealth. Here, we list the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives. Remember to have a plan for shade. It’s also a good idea to check the wind strength and direction before heading out, because instead of crystal calm waters, you might find heady waves when the north meltimi winds blow at 6 beauforts.

*Serifos’ beaches are stunning (here at Psilli Ammos), including child-friendly options.*

VILLAGE WALKS (AND CHILD-FRIENDLY EATS)

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both bite-sized, with a handful of smart boutiques and an unexpectedly pulsating nightlife in the square of the Chora. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi is the more interesting, with building remnants attesting to its mining history that are worth exploring.

— LIVADI —

Small, but complete, Livadi is where you will consistently return to for coffee (Indigo makes a good roast), ice cream (Scoop, or neighbouring Cherie for rainbow sprinkles on top), peponi (honey-sweet Greek melons) and peaches from the mini mart (K Supermarket is the most well-stocked), and plasters from the pharmacy.

A diverse selection of tavernas line the waterfront. Most are squeezed close to the port, with little space to play. Head to the quieter side of the beach where Axinos sits for a thoroughly more relaxed setting. Oozing laid back cool in neutral platteted interiors, its menu is an enticing mix of modern Greek. You can order a lamb shank or T-bone steak, but seafood is the highlight, where succulent crayfish swim in silky risotto, and juicy-crisp grouper sits grilled on a celeriac bed. There’s also an exciting dessert selection to finish. Take note that many restaurants in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 4 pm in classic Greek tradition), apart from beach tavernas. Check opening times before you count on being served.

Axinos seafood taverna in Serifos, Greece — *Our favourite dining experience on the island – Axinos*

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, I blinked twice when I spotted Blue Bamboo on Google maps. Asian food in Greek islands is typically not to be trusted, but this is the real Thai food transport from Athens. Unlike its cramped Athenian counterpart, its spacious boho-chic garden grounds are laced with fairy-light garlands for a festive atmosphere. There’s liberal ground for playful scampers in between tables, so parents can count on dining peacefully on pad thais, red curries, and tom kha gai (coconut based soup).

Blue Bamboo Thai Restaurant in Serifos — *Thai foood relief at Blue Bamboo*

Too tired to eat out? The “mageireio” is what you are looking for. Takeaway ready-cooked, home-style recipes from Taverna Marina by the port. Fronting its kitchen is a display of dishes ready to be packed to-go in a flash.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is an unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving a seemingly endless climb up a tangle of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. Impossible with strollers, bring your baby carrier and trained glutes instead.

Follow any flight of stairs upwards, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The diminutive heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and restaurants with tables spilling into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious eateries serving meze-type fare.

Agios Athanasios square in Ano (Upper) Chora at sunset.
Stop by Skaraveos for succulent souvlaki in Ano Chora.
Serifos’ neoclassical townhall.

Continue towards the castle top, resisting the temptation to turn back on the steep ascent through quiet residential streets. Even with kids. It won’t be long before you reach the church of Agios Konstantinos, teetering 823 feet above the sea with the most magnificent island vistas.

If anyone needs encouragement along the way, “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades (doughnut-like balls) bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, pita gyros (rotisserie-cooked pork slices and fries stuffed in pita bread) works just as well as an incentive. Head to Skaraveos for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

It pays to visit the Chora in the early evening, giving you ample time before sunset to soak in the views. Parking anyways in the one public parking lot (near the bus station at the entrance of Ano or Upper Chora) is limited, so a headstart before the lingering beach crowds make their way will reward greatly.

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tall tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach, and he has an IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. A two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port, it sits on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with a domestic airport). Mykonos also has international connections and is a 2 hour fast-ferry away. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

FIND A FERRY TO SERIFOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing for ferries to Sifnos from Pireaus.

Sep 29, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Heavenly Holiday or Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021

written by Lindsay

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing.

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But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to find precious breathing corners on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees. We share them here.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – a stunning shoreline. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches in a country where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs.

It’s not that I don’t appreciate the comforts of a parasol and sunbed—especially when travelling with young children, when there’s already enough to carry without adding umbrellas and beach chairs to the list. But when almost an entire beach is given over to organised seating, the sense of openness that makes a day by the sea so restorative begins to disappear.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece — *While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.*

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In upscale Paraga, that’s €80 of burgers and club sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family frequenting the beach daily, the price tag is a hefty one for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from north Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats:

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space on Elia, in spite of a sea of parasols. A slip of sand dividing the main from the nudist section allows free campers to throw their towels down. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in Maldivian shades of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is located right behind.

— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Taking center stage is Lohan beach house, as subdued as its namesake low-key status after infamy in her younger, wilder years. With widely spaced-out sunbeds and a relaxing palette of-neutral toned interiors, this was an unexpected haven of contemporary cool.

— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well.

So after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed to revisiting the hangouts of our youth where we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach, in spite of the reputations of its resident beach clubs (Paradise and Super Paradise) on the islands most famous beach coves. Tropicana was our first stop on the stretch for no particular reason. And suggesting a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend, we settled here. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m. as the late-starters stream in. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, it starts at a bearable volume level with the day, but grows louder with the setting sun.

*Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.*

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

*An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.*

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find local artisan Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we escaped to the waterfront one street away for a coffee. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot) or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece — *Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys.

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

*White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.*

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos sits a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a place worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails leading to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. Instead of soul-warming dishes distilled from the recipes of successive generations of Greek yiayias (Grandmas), minute portions of deconstructed fare were presented by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or using it as a stopover (instead of Athens) to ferry to other destinations in the Cyclades from Europe. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the enduring magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures still hover over 20°C. Spring in Greece is also always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Avoid July and August at all costs. And while winter travel is possible, take note that many businesses start to close in late October.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. Refurbished in 2021, their Cycladic-cool airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two-and-a-half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

FIND A FERRY TO MYKONOS

Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Mykonos from Pireaus port.

Sep 21, 2021 0 comment

Destinations

A Sweeping Survey of the Greek Isles & How to Select Yours

by Lindsay Jan 26, 2021

written by Lindsay

Last updated: Jan 2025

Where do your island dreams take you? Dark and wild or blonde and Maldivian-blue, we share some key considerations when selecting Greek islands to find your match made in Olympus.

1. What’s Your Scene?

The Greek islands of Milos, Kefalonia and Evia

WHITE & BLUE

I like my islands bare and rocky. Characteristic of the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Milos, Folegandros, Sifnos, Serifos, and other ruggedly handsome neighbours), this is where the country’s signature white sugar-cube villages with blue church top domes artfully blend into the stark silhouette of arid surroundings.

BLUE & GREEN

If you prefer luxuriant vegetation and tree-lined beaches to lay your mat under, try:

The Sporadic islands: Skiathos and Skopelos, both used as film sites for Mama Mia! And then there is Alonissos – a secret nature reserve rich in flora and fauna, and the largest marine protected area in Europe.
The Ionian islands: A cluster of islands in the Ionian sea less famous than they should be. Receiving three times more rainfall those in the Aegean, its lands are mountainous, green and fertile. Star attractions include cosmopolitan Corfu, Lefkada with bluer-than-blue beaches, Kefalonia, and the breathtaking Paxoi islands.
Andros: Two hours from Rafina port in Athens, Andros is a Cycladic outpost unlike its neighbours. It’s also the greenest, with hiking paths running through forested mountains dotted with waterfalls and springs. Once a maritime center, a stately Chora (an island’s capital) enchants with marble neoclassical mansions built by the shipping families that gathered.
Samothrace: Next to Thassos is the quiet birthplace of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. Bordering the coast of Turkey, this exotic boho escape is a natural wonderland. Rock pools, mineral springs, waterfalls and streams all nestle within its forested interiors.

SOMETHING IN-BETWEEN

For a bit of both, where towering rocks blend into soft dense greenery, Kefalonia and Zakynthos have that sweep-you-off-your-feet effect with striking beauty. And for more drama, Meteora, Folegandros, and Amorgos also lure with impressive and imposing landscapes.

2. Airport, or Not?

Are you prepared to brave the Greek ferry system? If you prefer to fly-in, take note that most Greek islands don’t have an airport. Crete and Evia aside, there are 6 main Greek island groups (Cyclades, Dodecanese, Ionion, Sporadic, Saronic, North Aegean). Apart from the Saronic island group (closest to the mainland), each of the others have a handful of islands with a domestic or international airport. If you plan on island-hopping, its generally easier to choose islands within the same island group. There are also road trip options to consider.

3. Research Your Beaches

A Greek summer staple, the island hunt for us surrounds the quest for beautiful beaches. How do you like yours? Sandy or pebbly? Furnished with human comforts, or deserted and inaccessible by car? Or if you’re not bothered by beaches much, Santorini, Folegandros, Syros, Sifnos, Tinos, and Hydra are better known for their village attractions.

THE CHILD-FRIENDLY NECESSITY

Beach hunting with kids has been whittled down to three-pronged search for shallow & still waters, sandcastle-fit shores, and sunbeds. They also should be easy to get to. The destinations with qualifying candidates are many and marvellous. Some of our family favourites include Naxos, Paros, Sifnos (without an airport), and Limnos.

ORGANISED & UNORGANISED?

Useful to know is the distinction between “organised” and “unorganised” beaches. In Greece, an “organised beach” is furnished with umbrellas and sunbeds. On quieter islands, you just have to be a patron of beach bar with the set-up. On busier islands, expect to pay anywhere from €5 to €25 a pair, or €40 to €80 if you’re on Mykonos.

An “unorganised” beach does not have umbrellas and sunbeds set-up. Look instead for a taverna or cantina nearby to supply food and drink .

If you are so brave to go unorganised with child and all your baby bits and bobs, a new world of options unfold:

Koufonisia and islands within the Small Cyclades (Schinoussa and Dounossa). Blessed with a string of show-stopping beaches you can enjoy in relative quietude, we packed our car in with beach gear so we could plant ourselves on Koufonisia’s glorious shores all day.
Serifos: Psilli Ammos, Agios Sosis… Serifos has a diversity of unspoilt beaches to explore.
Elafonisos: Because two is better than one, double-sided Simos beach in Elafonisos is a road trip option nicely combined with a visit to medieval Monemvasia castle town.

4. Deserted or Developed?

Are you looking for an elemental island escape with unpaved roads and beaches unblemished? Or polished alleys leading to Louis Vuitton around the corner from YiaYia’s (grandma’s) house? For tourists easily repulsed by tourism and development, Greece has much to offer. But then there are untouched, and untouched gems you really want to visit. Alonissos, Lemnos, and Ikaria (where people live longer) are some that promise restoration for the world-weary.

You may, however, (as I do) appreciate a sushi break between taverna visits and chic island shopping. Jet set-savvy destinations like Santorini, Mykonos and Paros lie on the other end of the spectrum.

Practical-sort-of-parents seeking sufficient development to include large supermarkets and access to better-than-basic health services should pick larger islands (e.g. Crete, Corfu and Rhodos), or a mainland destination like Chalkidiki. Syros (Ermoupolis), capital of the Cyclades, is also self-sufficient with large supermarkets and a full hospital.

5. Choose Your Village

Perfect summer days in Greece end with evenings exploring villages: cafes and kafeneios (traditional coffee houses where grandpas gather), ouzeries and bars, tavernas in vibrant village squares, pretty boutiques, Greek orthodox churches, petite archaeological museums with priceless treasures, and possibly, a castle.

Greek Villages in Symi, Rhodos and Santorini

Cycladic villages hold a special place for me. With minimalist architecture, clean lines, white and cobalt blue contrasts, a soulful surprise of life reside behind perfectly uniform exteriors. Tourists flock to Santorini primarily to enjoy Cycladic village beauty blessed with incredible vistas (the beaches in Santorini are not to shout about). For a purer experience of Cycladic villages without the crowds, try Sifnos.

Looking for a different village vibe? Consider Syros and Symi, with neoclassical houses that stand elegantly in a festival of colours. There’s also little but impressive Hydra, where cars are not allowed. Stone-built mountain villages like Pelion are another kind of special with a fairytale-likeness to them.

6. Find Your Perfect Hideaway

Sometimes the idyllic vacation villa determines our choice of island. Particularly when we have found a beach house steps away from pristine waters.

In Greece, we usually pick an Airbnb estate over space-starved hotel rooms and common pools for stays over 3 days. Professionally run and practically equipped (with washing machines, kitchen equipment, travel cots and high chairs), bi and tri weekly cleaning services are also common. Where to look? Seaside villages (with swimmable beaches) are an ideal set-up. Suggestions include: Plaka in Naxos, Aliki in Paros, Platis Gialos in Sifnos, Livadakia in Serifos, Panormos and Skopelos, Votsi bay in Alonissos, Mylopotas in Ios, and Batsi in Andros.

Another tempting option for families are luxe beach resorts that lure with babysitting, back-to-nature kids activities, aqua parks, morning yoga and massages. Acclaimed names include: Costa Navarino (Mainland Messinia – two hour drive from Athens) with its string of luxury hotels, Amanzoe (Porto Heli), Sani (Chalkidiki), Porto Zante (Zakynthos) and Daios Cove (Crete). Prefer to nestle in closer to nature in a sort-of camping option that will be a hit with kids, with all the frills mom loves in a holiday? Try Ergon Beach House in Chalkidiki.

7. Pick an Adventure

There may be little left of the ancient ruins that remain, but there is something that moves me in the presence of historical rubble. The better preserved archaeological digs include: the uninhabited island of Delos (around which the Cycladic islands circle around, and a daytrip option from Mykonos), Akrotiri (Greece’s Pompeii in Santorini), the Minoan palace of Knossos (Crete), and The Temple of Aphaia (Aegina). Kos, birthplace of Hippocrates, boasts a significant collection of sites to explore alongside great beaches, including the healing center and Sanctuary of Asklepion.

On the mainland, notable attractions aside from the Parthenon include Delphi, Mycenae, Olympia and Temple of Apollo Epicurius.

You can even combine archaeological exploits with adventure sports. Keen on diving through an underwater archaeological site? In Alonissos resides the “Parthenon of shipwrecks”. Dating back to 425 B.C., recreational divers will be able to visit the undersea antiquities museum later this year.

Alternatively, drop the historical focus entirely. Hike, windsurf, river trek, cycle, rock climb, go whitewater rafting … There’s a world-class environment for most adventure sports. And of course, there’s sailing.

Culinary adventures are not to be missed on these fertile, sunbaked lands where farm-to-table is the norm, not a novelty. Go on a wild edible mushroom hunt in the forests of Epirus. Join an olive harvest in September and October. Discover up-and-coming wineries gaining worldwide attention. Even on hedonistic Mykonos, you can find a farmstead for kids to unearth their meals. Or simply, just eat. While good food is everywhere in Greece, Sifnos and Tinos have reputations for standout gastronomy.

Jan 26, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

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Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also well balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. Not particularly enchanting at first glance, a tourist-geared jumble of portside businesses and tavernas line its waterfront. But wander into its backstreets and you will discover an old town that hasn’t lost its village charm. Built on the ruins of 2nd millennium BCE settlement, bits of its ancient history hideout within walkways. Settle at Symposium for coffee and crepe within its tangle of streets. Slightly elevated on a raised platform overhung by a bougainvillea canopy, its a lovely stop from which to people watch.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If your ideal summer holiday is one of quiet languor, consider Alyki. Just a 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unspoilt little fishing village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the quiet inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for emerging artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for a souvenir like no other.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

🏖️ 🤿 🚤 🐝 👨‍🌾 🏛️🏇

Greece is blessed with an abundance of alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, itself conveniently close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach to swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (a waterpark, pottery workshops, cheese-making classes, bee farm visits, horse-riding and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system zips you from town to its main beach attractions.

Naxos airport — *The island airport is the tiniest we’ve seen*.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars. In particular, I’d stay clear of Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit offensive smells.

*Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis*.

Moving south along its fertile western lowlands, plots of farmland have been converted into holiday homes bounded by fields and garden grounds. There’s a limit to how much you can build on such “agrotemahio “, resulting in a dispersed scattering of tourist infrastructure.

— pLAKA —

In Plaka, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. And while beach Mikri Vigla’s beach is our favourite for family swims, Plaka is more centrally located and closer to the Chora. It also has a watersports center, horse riding club, and a small supermarket for essential supplies. For serious cooking plans, AB Vassilopoulos lies a 10-minute drive away on its outskirts. Our go-to supermarket chain on the islands, it’s your best bet for internationally familiar products.

Our recent villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

— chora (main town)? —

The Greek Chora is always the obvious choice if you prioritise convenience. And while I’m usually not fond of the chaos of port towns (ferries to Naxos disgorge passengers here), Naxos has a lovely one. Generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, a 12-minute walk south brings you to the start of the island’s stretch of marveled beaches.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Rarely packed out and peaceful, the island vibe is easy-going and unhurried. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Powder-fine, shallow, and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Our preferred part lies south from Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter.

Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Set under a dense canopy of native cedar trees, Cedar Cafe is a hammock-saddled hideout with an ethnically inspired menu. Not quite for seekers of a “Best of Naxos” culinary experience, but appealing with the offer of chicken curry after two months of tomato-based dishes on repeat. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the paved road to Mikri Vigla soon turns to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than Plaka, a carving of shoreline provides the conveniences of sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully bare. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, its a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Climbing the rocks of Mikri Vigla beach, Naxos island, Greece — *Scaling rocks at Mikri Vigla*.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter.Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, formerly the capital and trading centre of Naxos, is our favourite if you have to pick one. A small tangle of scenic streets with villas bearing neoclassical facades house interesting finds. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

— f i l o t i —

The largest of the island’s village is Filoti, built into the slopes of a verdant valley. Quiet and picturesque, settle into a café under the leafy greens of tree in the center of the village square (Gefyra).

A short distance from Filoti is Limpertas Manolis’ pottery shop, where you can pick up Montessori-approved whistling bird souvenirs for the kids and friends back home. Fill the vessel-flute with water and blow to produce a delightful bird-like warble, still pleasant on the ears even after constant repetition.

Pottery shop near Filoti.
Whistling bird souvenirs.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Continuing from Filoti, you will soon arrive at lofty, languid Apeiranthos. Standing 600 meters above sea level, a clutch of cafes and taverns have made their home in the stone houses that flank its marble streets, some with impressive mountain range views.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages complete perfect summer days, when otherwise sleepy villages spring into a full festival. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands commandingly in a corner – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind with many steps to negotiate with.

Naxos chora — *The west-facing Chora at sunset*.

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Taverns in gardens, taverns by the sea … we fall in restaurant love when a classic Greek taverna nestled in nature allows us to oversee the kids scamper at a distance as we nurse an ouzo. Sometimes we scout for restaurants in Greece by looking up seaside locations in Google Maps. Such special finds in Naxos include:

— KAsTRAKI PARADISE —

Perched atop an expansive rock outcrop overlooking the sea in wild kastraki, the silence of its sprawling grounds is palpable. Watch over the kids inspect ant holes in the ground or take a nature walk as you dine under the trees on a small, but well-executed menu of taverna favourites of seafood and more.

— PARADISO TAVERNA —

Located at the northern tip of Plaka beach, the sunset view from Paradiso’s beachfront tables dispels any a frazzled nerve. A taverna that’s also a mageireio, this is a type of eatery that is very useful for parents to know when in Greece. Serving ready-made, home-cooked style dishes, it’s perfect for restaurant-tired taste buds. Fussy eaters can survey the spread of stews and oven-baked meals on a buffet-like display before making their selection. There’s also the option to pack something to-go (without waiting) if its been that kind of day.

Paradiso Restaurant in Naxos — Beachside dining

— avli —

Not quite set in spacious surrounds, but still deserving of special seafood mention is Avli Taverna. Here we sampled a sublime pickled stingray appetiser, devoured shrimp spaghetti, and couldn’t get enough of fresh-caught fagri grilled to perfection.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and hottest months) I try to avoid as far as possible, if not for lining up with the school holidays. That said, while popular, Naxos doesn’t feel unbearably busy in general in managing to spread out the crowds, remaining relatively low-key even in high season.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. If you’re flying in from Europe, you can also use the international airports at Mykonos or Santorini as a point of arrival instead of Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: Where Little Adventures Meet Otherworldly Beauty

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. On Milos, however, such stays are surprisingly scarce. The island’s dramatic volcanic coastline leaves relatively few broad, easily accessible beaches, while its thankfully restrained development has kept much of the shoreline free from large-scale accommodation.

Our preferred compromise is to base ourselves in Pollonia, whose gentle village beach is ideal for young children. Next comes hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), where beautiful accommodation is paired with easy access to the island’s highlights, followed by Adamantas, the main port, with Papikinou Beach just a few minutes away.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capitalwhere life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — **Palaios** — Settle in for slow coffee and homemade sweets in the heart of Plaka.

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for coffee, Stasi for reliably good pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef led OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *Minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *Sirocco’s sand kitchen.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this little Cycladic dream.

🏖️🤿🚲👨‍🦯

Last updated 1 Jan 2026

Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – one bakery, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, tavernas traditional and contemporary, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a peppering of lust-worthy apartment rentals have sprouted on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and chic boutiques. The island’s draw? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island (2026 update: Aeris Suites has started to offer the island’s first electric vehicle rental service), an on-call taxi (tel: +30698 73 37 290 – book ahead) stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, we were delighted to have ours. So at the risk of derisive looks from locals, we drove ours aboard the ferry.

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half hour from 8am to 8pm. Tickets are sold at the port for €7 for the day.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora. Using the bakery (and supermarket diagonally opposite) as a reference point. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow across the Aegean in summer, it’s usually also the calmest beach on the island. If you need to expand the search area, I’d do it in the direction of Finikia and Fanos beaches.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the Chora from our Airbnb.*

SLOW TRAVEL RITUALS

When we stayed in the Chora, our mornings predictably started with a bleary-eyed walk to Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach. It might be a little café on a little island, but they whip-up a savvy offering of eggs in every fashion, serve acai bowls, and even katsu sandos. For the day’s beach trip ahead, we stuff the family tote with supplies from Bakery Giorgoula a five-minute walk away. This is where you will meet the entire island. Spilling over with a giddying selection of savoury and sweet pastries, you can’t complain about it being the only bakery in town.

To Kyma Cafe on Ammos Beach, Koufonisia — *All-day To Kyma cafe on Ammos port beach*.

EASY HIKES, DREAMY DIPS

On an island of just 400 residents, a collective determination to protect the coastline against the rising tide of tourism has ensured that Koufonisia’s six beaches remain blissfully untouched by rows of sunbeds. “Unorganised” as they say in Greece, be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the restaurant-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Beach, Koufonisia — *Fanos beach bay overlooks Keros – an uninhabited island of great archaeological interest, but off-limits to visitors*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is Spartan, so arrive equipped. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes (26 Sep 2023 update: the restaurant has re-opened under new management). Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes topped with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and oversized terracotta pot adornment imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

EVENING EXPLOITS

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of colourful shops and enticing eateries. It’s also one that’s eager to please. Alongside its traditional tavernas, contemporary restaurants and a superb no-frills souvlaki and pita gyros hole-in-wall (for takeaways after long days), Chora offers a surprisingly varied food scene. An artisanal gelateria and aloukoumades shop cater to sweet cravings, while relative newcomer Ca Chi Ca brings a distinctly modern flavour, serving bao buns, steak burgers and exceptional cocktails that feel more city than Cyclades. Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

*Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

Smack in the middle by the blue dome of St George’s church, stop by the playground as the afternoon sun starts to sink. Then treat yourself to adult playtime with cocktails and sweeping sea views from Mylos bar’s enviable vantage point. Getting used to nights out when you down your drinks with kids in your company as the Greeks do? Sprawl out on a carpet by the sea’s edge at Sorokos while the young and nimble cartwheel through the walking street behind.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Nestled in the heart of Chora on a balcony overlooking the street, Armira Kai Pioto was the most memorable meal we had in town. With an unexpected spin on traditional taverna food, all on our omakase-style four-part tasting menu was exquisitely put together.

Mylos Bar Koufonisia — *Drop by Mylos bar for sunset cocktails.*

Another consistent dining favourite with an excellent seafood spread is on the island’s westernmost end. With a spacious terrace for energetic companions, the tables at Aneplora spread out and spill over into another terrace below. Expansive and so serene you can hear the boats bob in the tiny bay ahead, the experience of tranquility here is palpable.

Aneplora seafood restaurant, Koufonisia — *Sunset views and stellar seafood in surreal tranquility.*

WHEN TO VISIT

There’s a sweet spot for visiting Koufonisia. In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels less like an arctic splash. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September is also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach, securing the best accommodation, and smaller dents in budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, neighbouring Naxos (with an airport) is just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, the fastest journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port takes 5 hours. Not short, but the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

FIND A FERRY TO KOUFONISIA

There was a time when the only way to reach Koufonisia was aboard the rickety Express Skopelitis, the family-owned ferry linking the Small Cyclades. Today, fast ferries have arrived—and with them, larger crowds. Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Koufonisia from Pireaus port.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

FIND A FERRY TO CHANIA

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules from Pireaus (Athens) to Chania Port.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Unpacking Athens with Kids – A Family Travel Guide

by Lindsay Dec 29, 2019

written by Lindsay

Last updated 7 Sep 2024

A spirited metropolis spilling over with incredible ruins, Athens is a magnificent mess.

And if chaos breeds creativity, Athens is living proof. Out of the post-war housing crisis of the 1950s emerged the antiparochi system—a uniquely Greek exchange in which landowners traded development rights for newly built apartments. The result was the city’s seemingly endless sea of concrete apartment blocks, a striking departure from the grace and grandeur of its ancient past.

Inventive, charismatic and still packed with remarkable landmarks, Athens rewards a two- or three-day stopover—particularly if you’re drawn to cities with character rather than polish. It’s also steadily reinventing itself. Recent years have seen continued efforts to tackle graffiti, create pocket parks amid the concrete sprawl, and breathe new life into once-derelict buildings through thoughtful restorations and imaginative new uses.

Here, we share how to navigate downtown with kids. A true test of their grit with pot-holed pavements snaking between weathered cement blocks, imaginations and ice cream will go a long way in fueling the discovery of this adventurer’s wonderland. The map at the end of this post will guide you through the maze of its streets, including emergency pit stops for treats, toys, and other bribes.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

If you’re in town for a short stay, hotels have their conveniences over apartment rentals. Particularly those with a pool for cooling-off in the searing summer heat. Options downtown include:

Ergon Houses – a nature-inspired, contemporary-chic sanctuary in the heart of town, new entrants Ergon House (23 Mitropoleos) and Ergon Bakehouse (9 Patroou) have extra large family rooms designed for parties of 4 and 5.
Colors Hotel – Splashed in cheerful bursts of colour, playful family rooms are fitted-out with fun bunk beds (accommodating a family of 4) in this budget-friendly kids’ haven. Our only gripe – it’s located in Omonoia with a slightly seedy reputation in an unpretty part of town.
Electra Metropolis – “Retro-chic” Electra is just one block from the main shopping street of Ermou. Still too much for little legs? Retire to the rooftop pool with unobstructed views of The Parthenon after a day of sightseeing. Their triple rooms accommodate an accompanying child on a sofa bed, while Superior Connecting Rooms are an option for more.
The Dolli – The Grande Bretagne (rollaway beds and connecting rooms are available on request) is the traditional choice of luxury, occupying a commanding position on Syntagma Square, where the changing of the Presidential Guard (the Evzones) unfolds. For a more contemporary take on design-led luxe, however, The Dolli is hard to surpass. Housed within a magnificent 19th-century mansion, it combines heritage architecture with refined modern interiors and one of the city’s most coveted hotel experiences. Families with generous budgets will also appreciate its spacious apartment-style accommodation.
AthensWas -This sleek and swanky Design Hotel has no pool, but is in an unbeatable location. Situated off a green promenade (Dionysiou Areopagitou) suited for scenic family strolls, it’s also right next to monumental historical sites – 300 meters from the Acropolis Museum, and close to the (better) side entrance to The Acropolis. The Temple of Zeus is a 10-minute walk away. Cots, extra beds, and connecting rooms are available.

For longer stays demanding more space and practical things like kitchens and laundry machines, an apartment rental may suit you better. Look one up in a beautiful enclave that stands out from the concrete mess like Plaka, or Thissio (near the Ancient Agora with many cafes – use Athinaion Politeia as a marker), and along the scenic pedestrian path in the map (below) that takes you along Dionysiou Areopagitou and down to the Acropolis Museum. You’ll be thankful for these green, open walking spaces once you tread the narrow, built-up network of streets that otherwise surround.

When travelling as a family, it’s always smart to stay close to where your main activities will be. And if you’re quite clear the itinerary will be as simple as a single visit to the Acropolis, consider venturing out to the southern coast for a more relaxed way to experience the city. The Four Seasons Astir Palace is the new jewel of the Athenian Rivera. Giving you access to sandy gold beaches (which are often otherwise packed in summer), it’s also a good base from where you can explore the ancient temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Vogliameni Lake, and even Margi’s 20-acre farm with back-to-nature activities.

Otherwise, there’s also the leafy northern suburb of Kifisisa to consider, a 30-minute drive out from center. On the slopes of Mount Penteli and shaded by tree-lined streets, it’s cooler here in the unrelenting heat of peak summer months. Also thoroughly family-friendly, this is our favourite part of the city.

WHAT TO DO

Where else in the world can you imagine that just a metre beneath the streets you tread, a 300 BC bust of Hermes lies undiscovered? So rich in history, culture and ancient finds, we strongly suggest hiring a guide to bring the city’s stones to life. Livin Lovin will connect you with insightful tour guides, while Mamakita organises a plethora of kids tours and activities. Parents with children over four can leave them in their care a precious few hours to explore the city unencumbered. Or book yourself in for a rejuvenating rub-down at Salon De Massage (36 Ermou). Otherwise, here is our shortlist of nine ways to spend your days:

Centerpiece of the Acropolis, visit the 5th century BCE Parthenon (a guide will elevate the experience). Icon and inspiration, the elusive marvel of architectural beauty and engineering genius is a sight to behold. To regulate the crowds, entry takes place in selected time slots which you can view and book online (this is the official site). Kids under 5 years of age enter for free. There are two entrances. Take the side entrance opposite the Acropolis Museum instead of the main entrance. Less busy, it also takes you past Dionysus Theater. Expect slippery marble steps and steep climbs which make the ascent a demanding one with infants (bring your child carrier) and young children, although our 4-year old didn’t have a problem. There’s a stroller park at the entrance. Lastly, as with most outdoor activities in Greece, avoid the intense heat of the midday sun. Better yet, visit in spring and autumn.
Tour the New Acropolis Museum. Stunning in its sparing simplicity, it showcases the extraordinary finds from a single archaeological site – the Acropolis of Athens. They’ve also thought of every convenience for families: A kids’ backpack (for children from 6 to 11 years old, available at the information counter) will keep them busy with a scavenger hunt. Baby changing facilities (not always easy to locate in the city) are found in the Parents’ Room, and you can also loan a stroller for free.
To let off serious energy, the National Gardens near SYNTAGMA is a green oasis with a dream of a new, pine-tree shaded playground in its heart, a duck pond, and some farm animal attractions.
A 10-minute walk from the main entrance of the National Gardens is the Museum of Ancient Greek Technology. Compact, interactive, and staffed with knowledgeable guides, adults and older children alike will leave suitably educated and entertained.
The bit of Adrianou Street (points D to C on walking path in the map) opposite the Stoa of Attalos is lined with cafes and restaurants that don’t spill out into a street. Here you will also find the Temple of Hephaestus and other ruins scattered around the beautiful garden grounds surrounding the Ancient Agora.
Wander around picturesque Plaka – the oldest neighbourhood in the ancient city. There’s a recently renovated playground in the shadow of the Acropolis.
Head south to Flisvos marina. Behind its waterfront cafes and restaurants is Volta fun town with go karts, boat rides, trampolines, and more. There’s more to do in the vicinity. Take a walk through the botanic gardens next to it and you will find a host of playgrounds nestled within. Then continue for an evening amble by the seafront promenade.
Spend a late afternoon (there’s no shade in the outdoor play area) at Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center. A 7-minute drive out from the city center, this mammoth cultural complex has a state-of-the-art adventure playground and park for kids. Cycle (bike rental is available), climb the rock wall, climb some more on the wood-based play structures, visit the vegetable garden, then cool off in the water play area.
On a 36°C day, there’s no shame in seeking cool relief in the city’s snazziest mall, Golden Hall, a 30-minute ride from the center. Apart from a shaded outdoor playground, XPLORE inside is an impressive kids entertainment center with a small aquarium, adventure arena, and science discovery zone.

DELICIOUS EATS

Restaurants in the city center can cramp up little explorers. If you have time, take a 40-minute drive (if there’s no congestion) out to Garbi or Sardelaki in Vougliameni for fresh air and relaxed seaside dining.

But if an apocalyptic meltdown is impending and you need a quick meal downtown, here are our picks:

Athinaikon (34 Mitropoleos St & 9 Petraki St) – A reliable favourite off ERMOU presenting a wide menu with a modern spin. Large, spacious, and smart, sit inside or out.
To Kafeneio (1 Epicharmou St) – A homely, cozy restaurant in PLAKA with heartwarming fare, this is where guides-in-the-know tell you where to go to. Another favourite in the area is Scholarchio, serving traditional plates since 1935. It’s tight inside, so bring crayons.
Savor Charms (Nileos 11) – A cozy corner shop in THISSIO with a talented chef at its helm. It’s the kind of authentic gem that’s often hard to find in tourist-geareed city centers.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas (Mitropoleos 12) – Creative Greek “countryside” fare in a contemporary taverna style setting.
Orizondes Lycabettus (Aristippou 1, LYCABETTUS) – A fine dining hilltop retreat with panoramic views of the city from the highest peak of Athens. While you’re visiting mainly for the view, the food won’t disappoint. Take the Lycabettus Hill cable car up to the restaurant as the hike up from the car park and drop-off point is a bit of an uphill climb. Ask for a table on the outdoor terrace.

TREATS

The “best of” guide for children is a simple list of three:

Takis Bakery (14 Missaraliotou, ACROPOLIS) – Locally loved for bread, pies and sweets, it’s conveniently located near the Acropolis museum. Join the queue.
Kokkoin (2 Protogenous St, MONASTIRAKI) – Using fresh milk from the cows of northen Greece, Kokkoin churns out artisanal ice cream that is velvety, rich and vegan.
Lukumades (Eolou 21 & Agia Irinis St, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – A doughnut Disneyland, Lukumades dresses up the traditional Greek doughnut-type sweet in an array of spreads, syrups, and sweet dustings.

AND SIPS

The “best of” list for parents includes stimulants:

The Clumsies (30 Praxitelous, MONASTIRAKI) – The all-day bar you need when without a babysitter at night. Set in an intimate townhouse, award-winning bartenders shake up tantilising cocktails.
Tailor Made (Plateia Agias Eirinis 2, between MONASTIRAKI & SYNTAGMA) – Part-roastery and part-cafe, join the city’s chic clique for coffee or cocktails in Agia Irinis Square. Outdoor tables spill into the square where the kids can safely run in circles.

PARENT PRACTICALITIES

Different city, same drill:

Taxis – Free Now is the local taxi finding app of choice in Athens, although Uber works too (ridesharing is not allowed in Greece, so you will be “Ubering” a taxi). There’s also a taxi stand (still a thing in parts of Greece) in Monastiraki Square next to Moustakas toy shop.
Local mobile SIM card – If you’re not already covered with the international roaming benefits of Google Fi or an eSIM, stop by a Cosmote, Vodafone (has a stand at the airport at the luggage collection area) or Germanos store (with your passport) to get connected.
Supermarkets – Alpha-Beta Vassilopoulos (AB) is a popular chain with outlets downtown (two are marked in the map), although our favourite is Thanopoulos (located in the northern suburbs) with a large international offering. Note: most close on Sundays. Mini marts are also scattered throughout the city, and may be open on Sunday (check ahead). If you’re looking for bottled baby food, most will stock European brands like Hipp and Holle.
Pharmacies – In almost every street corner, look for the lighted green cross. Most carry baby essentials like formula, diapers, wipes, pacifiers, and sunscreen. Opening hours are odd in Greece: downtown, they are usually open from 9am to 8pm, and close on Sundays. Out of town, some close in the afternoon from 2pm to 5:30 pm.
Beachwear and swimming gear (for adults) – Oysho is a favourite, while Calzedonia carries a men’s selection. For a range of high-end swimwear including local designers, head to Attica departmental store.
Baby clothing, feeding and kids travel essentials – Mothercare and Prenatal should have most things might have forgotten to pack.
Kid’s toys and activity packs – Flying Tiger Copenhagen is a cornucopia of knick-knacks, while Moustakas is the local Toys “R” Us. And then there’s Jumbo, a budget-friendly megastore with everything from beach supplies (mats, umbrellas and folding chairs) to a complete selection of baby and toddler gear.

Delve further into all and more that the city has to offer with: This is Athens (includes practical information on getting around), Why Athens, Greece Is and Yatzer.

Dec 29, 2019 0 comment

Cyclades

Must-See Santorini: The Family Edit

by Lindsay Dec 27, 2019

written by Lindsay

Home to celestial villages with cosmopolitan flair, Greece’s Pompeii that is Akrotiri, unique gastronomy, and viticulture shaped by its volcanic history, we are still happy to brave the hordes (even with kids in company) to see astonishing Santorini.

🏖️ ️👨‍🦯 🏛️ 🌋

With pearly-white villages perched along the inner rim of a submerged caldera, Santorini’s sugar-cube quarters shine in the blaze of the Greek sun, blush in hues of orange and pink at sunset, and twinkle like a fairytale after dark. From a cataclysmic volcanic past emerged a landscape of singular beauty, making the island one of the most extraordinary places in the Aegean.

*Caldera village views. Image credit: Photo by Alex Azabache.*

Greece’s most visited island attraction draws over two million visitors a year. Overbearingly crowded in the giddying heat of its searing summers, can it still be enjoyed with family?

Returning on our second trip with an eight-month-old, we think so. Timed wisely, with the right accommodation, carefully selected activities, a car, and your expectations managed, it might even top the list of family adventures to remember.

WHERE TO STAY

The caldera’s cliffhanging village string of Fira, Imerovigli, and Oia is where to stay for the views the island is famous for. This is also where the multitudes descend to roam the narrow cobblestone streets of the island’s pin-up settlements. Flanked by colourful boutiques, art galleries, hip cafés, and bustling tavernas, while charming, these bumpy streets are crossed by stairs at almost every turn. Bring your baby carrier and leave the stroller behind.

If you’ve decided on these parts, select your location carefully. Fira, the capital and center of it all, is chaotic. Imerovigli a little better. And elegant Oia, with marble-paved streets and a cluster of luxury design hotels, the best of the three village options, we think.

Sunset at Oia village, Santorini Greece — *Oia’s legendary sunsets.*

It’s also a good idea to research your hotel thoroughly. Especially with first walkers in hand. Many of the caldera’s cave-type Cycladic dwellings are not designed with kids in mind. Stairwells are narrow, steep, and often without handrails, while low-slung balconies look out into jaw-dropping vistas.

We stayed in Aerie House in Oia. Spacious enough for the family with a living room and kitchen for the endless meal preparation requirements of a toddler, it also came without the worry of otherwise covetable private pools that dangle in the horizon. Set a nominal flight of stairs away from the main street so we could dodge the crowds, it’s still attractively close to all the action when you want. Local treasure Atlantis Books (including a children’s section) is also just a minute’s walk away.

What to do in the area? A scenic 10-kilometre hiking trail skirting the cliff’s edge takes you from Fira to Oia. Passing through Firostefani and Imerovigli, it’s an enjoyable way to explore the island with kids over four. If you only manage a walk to Firostefani, stop by nondescript Aktaion with tables outside for sumptuous sea views. A cozy, home-like family-run restaurant since 1922, it surprises with a modern spin on local flavours. Also nearby is Vanilla with a rooftop garden and broader menu options including child-pleasing pastas and pizzas. If you make it to Oia, settle into Melitini’s rooftop terrace for medley of meze (Greek tapas).

ESCAPE THE CROWDS: SOUTHERN SEASIDE VILLAGES

While Santorini is all about its mesmerising clifftop vistas, staying in its southern beach strip provides relief from a daily clash with tourist hordes. Yes, you will still have to join cars and buses vying for road space and parking to visit the island’s main villages of interest. But if the convenience of water-frolicking fun at your doorstep sounds appealing, look to the sandy beaches of Perissa, Perivolos and Kamari. All “organised”, as they say in Greece, with sunbeds and umbrellas furnished by beachfront cafés and tavernas, it’s a family-friendly set-up. The black sand is an added novelty, but burns in the sun, so bring water shoes.

Perissa beach Santorini Greece — *Instead of blue and white, the black sands of Perissa are typical of the island’s beaches.*

As a volcanic island, Santorini doesn’t boast idyllic white sands and aquamarine waters you might idealise. Skip onto neighbouring islands like Naxos or Mykonos for that. And while beaches may not the highlight here, Vlychada is notably impressive backed by sculptural pumice rock cliffs. It’s also home to Theros Wave Bar and restaurant on a semi-secluded bit of shore. Providing all the comforts for elevated beach lounging, sit back with a cocktail and savour stunning scenery alongside atmospheric tunes.

You might hear of the Red Beach at some point, with red sand. Harder to reach, it requires a short but dubious trek which we do not recommend if you are with young children. For us, the Red Beach is good for a quick look rather than to spend an afternoon in.

The Red Beach, Santorini Greece — *The Red beach – over-hyped and hard to reach with young ones.*

DINING WITH KIDS

Finding a restaurant that didn’t make my Greek husband feel like prey in a tourist trap was challenging, but Taverna Katina stood out. For seafood in general, and lobster spaghetti in particular. Laid-back, authentic, and with sufficient toddling space between tables, it sits on the waters of Amoudi Bay below the red cliffs of Oia.

Seafood Taverna Katina, Amoudi Bay (Oia), Santorini Greece — *Seafood Taverna Katina at Amoudi bay, below Oia.*

In general, dining within the narrow walls of Santorini’s famed villages can be a little too cozy for bouncing balls of energy. Take a break from the village bustle and retreat to rolling vineyards of acclaimed wineries like Domaine Sigalas and Venesantos for meals paired with top-rated tipples, and where everyone can have their bit of fun.

PREHISTORIC TREASURES & ADVENTURES

When the afternoon sun overpowers, escape into the sheltered (most archaeological sites in Greece are not) and extraordinary Bronze Age city of Akrotiri. Like Pompeii, its remains were buried and preserved by ash after a volcanic eruption in the 16th century B.C. . Still an active archaeological site, it has been thoughtfully constructed with wide walkways and viewing platforms that take you directly above the multi-story buildings and through the dusty streets of the ancient settlement. Hiring a guide when visiting key archaeological sites in Greece is always worthwhile. Later, break for seafood at The Dolphins taverna close by, and right by the water.

The covered archaeological site of prehistoric Akrotiri is best visited with a guide.
Dolphin seafood restaurant in Akrotiri, next to the Red Beach.
Traditional seafood dining at Dolphin Taverna

WHEN TO VISIT

Timing is everything for enjoying Santorini. High season stretches from June to September. Go in the peak of summer (July and August) and you’re likely to get smothered in tourist hordes crammed into tight alleyways. In October and November, the crowds ease off its strained infrastructure (road network included). The sea might be a tad chilly for swimming, but the black sand beaches of Santorini are not known for spectacular swims anyways. So if this doesn’t bother you, these late autumn and early spring months are the best times to visit.

With its mild Mediterranean climate, winter travel is rising in popularity. Giving you a glimpse into the hypnotic magic of the island, here you will have its sunsets all to yourself. Holidays in December, January and February (when the first cruise ships start arriving), are, however, at risk of rain. A selection of hotels will be open, along with a few restaurants catering to locals, and all will be happily more affordable.

GETTING THERE

With a small and recently refurbished international airport, you can fly into Santorini from London and other major European cities in summer, skipping an Athens stopover. The plane from Athens otherwise takes 45 minutes, while high-speed ferries from Pireaus or Rafina take five to seven hours. The island’s ferry port also connects you with other stunning near neighbours like Folegandros, Ios, Naxos and more Cycladic destinations.

For island hopping inspiration from Santorini, refer to our article with suggestions on island pairings.

FIND A FERRY TO SANTORINI

Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Santorini from Pireaus port.

Getting There:
- Flights from Athens Airport: 55 minutes
- High-speed fFerry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours 35 minutes. Note: the Santorini Athinios port is notoriously busy. It’s better to fly into the island if you are crowd averse.
Where We Stayed: Aerie House, Oia
Eat:
- Aktaion (Firostefani)
- Melitini Greek Tapas (Oia)
- Taverna Seafood Katina (Amoundi Bay)
See:
- Akrotiri Archaeological Site
Shop:
- AK Art Gallery (Fira and Oia)
- Mati Gallery (Fira)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Vassilopoulos (refer to map below) – our go-to supermarket on the islands. Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site: https://www.santorini.gr

Dec 27, 2019 0 comment

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