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Destinations

The Best Child-Friendly Beaches in Milos

by Lindsay Jan 11, 2022

written by Lindsay

Tourlos beach, next to the more popular Paleochori.

_{Last updated: 29 Jul 2024}

Milos has a diversity of child-friendly beaches to offer, from soft golden shores to painterly seascapes that dazzle with drama. The beaches listed below are our “organised” (as they say in Greece) favourites with sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. Located down south, this is also where you want to be when the seasonal north winds (“meltimi”) stir-up waves on the island’s northern shores.

ACHIVADOLIMNI

A 10 -minute drive from the main port, Achivadolimni’s protected waters are ideal for young children with waters that stay waist deep even 20 meters in. Calm and clear, a beguiling ombre of blue stretches towards Adamantas village opposite. Daddies prop up naked babies in armbands, toddlers splash confidently in Swim Trainers, and our girls practice snorkelling in preparation for the deeper waters of Paleochori. Sporadically, a plane flies by. A passing ferry might also stir up a series of waves, eliciting shrieks of excitement from kids as they’re rocked by the waters.

Next to the lifeguard tower, a basic bar-shack rents out straw umbrellas and sunbeds for €20 a pair. It has a wider than expected canteen-type menu: fruit juices and salads, sandwiches, burgers – enough to satiate hungry kids.

Parking is directly behind the beach.

PROVOTAS

Provotas is a perfect little bay for toddlers in tow. Subtly stunning, with sparkling waters and powdery sand, the gentle seabed stays near-flat for more than fifty meters out. On the beach, the resident hotel (Golden Milos) rents padded sun loungers and offers refreshment for €50 a new island high of pair (as of 2024). Park directly behind on the road that runs parallel to the beach. There’s a shower near the exit for a quick rinse before you return to the car.

Provotas Milos Seascape — *Powdery golden sand on Provotas and Agios Sostis are perfect for sandcastle building.*

If you’re in the area and don’t mind throwing your towel down on the beach instead, check out neigbouring Agios Sostis. Harder to reach, follow a short dirt road before arriving at the start of a 60-step stairway down. The bay below also harbours shallow, crystal clear waters, and our favourite for a swim in perfect tranquility. There is no shade or amenities here, however, so arrive equipped and prepared.

Agios Sostis beach in Milos — *The stairs down to Agios Sostis is pictured on the right of the beach when you’re viewing it from the water.*

These southern beaches are the ones to head to for the calmest seas when the north “meltimi” winds blow fiercely .

PALEOCHORI & TOURLOS

The marvel of Milos’ volcanic past can be felt at Paleochori, creating a kaleidoscope of colours and unique snorkelling sights. Like a glittering sea of peridot, aquamarine and sapphire jewels, its waters are both transparent and full of colour. Dive in, and you will discover a diversity of fishes weaving around streams of volcanic gas bubbles that rise from the floor (don’t forget snorkeling equipment and floatation jackets for kids). The seabed here gets steep quickly, and is better suited for young children on calm days – also when the beach is most beautiful. Check the wind direction, which should be blowing from the north for the best conditions.

If you can’t find sunbeds on Paleochori (the 2024 summer season saw the majority removed as operators await government permits), backup is within easy reach: quieter Tourlos beach is a half-a-minute’s drive away (put a Google map pin on D eep Blue cafe-bar – the stairs here lead down to the beach) with waters similarly striking.

Paleochori beach, Milos — *Dreamy Paleochori.*

*Deep Blue cafe-bar on Tourlos beach is a few minutes drive from Paleochori.*

Three resident restaurant-bars spread out on its shores. Earth-toned Sirocco is the main attraction, well-known for its signature style of sand-cooked fare heated geothermically in pits. While it has all the romantic beginnings of being started by a fisherman who discovered he could cook an egg in its sand, it has now morphed into a modern boho-chic restaurant serving inspired and creative cuisine. Public parking is located directly behind Sirocco, although this gets packed out quickly. If you’re planning on dining at Pelagos, parking is available behind the tavern as well.

Pelagos Tavern and Cafe, Paleochori — *Mesmerising views at Pelagos tavern and cafe*.

In the mood for aquatic action? PITS Watersports will equip you with jet skis, wakeboards, waterskis, SUPs, and an array of inflatables.

THE PORT BEACHES – PAPIKINOU (ADAMAS) & POLLONIA

Not destination beaches in themselves, but the port beaches of Papikinou and Pollonia are worth mentioning if you’re staying in the area. The sandy, tree-lined bays have waters both tepid and transparent. Cult taverna draw O! Hamos! have sunbeds and parasols for rent on Papikinou, while The Deck has furnished a corner of Pollonia with padded lounging comforts.

Papikinou Beach in Adamas Port, Milos — *Papinikou beach on the fringe of Adamas, near the famed O! Hamos! taverna with sunbeds on the beach*.

Jan 11, 2022 0 comment

Destinations

Roadtrip to North Evia – Coastal Hideaways, Sizzling Seafood and Healing Spas

by Lindsay Dec 17, 2021

written by Lindsay

What’s left of the evergreen Eden of North Evia after the wildfires of 2021? An island of simple and pure pleasures that is our second home, we share what attractions remain to be enjoyed.

Last updated 6 June 2026

The 2021 inferno that engulfed North Evia was the biggest Greece has ever seen. Once a lush mountainscape of pine, oak, fir, and olive trees, 51,000 hectares of primary forest went up in flames in eight days. Along with the livelihoods of resin collectors, bee keepers, olive oil producers, and other agribusinesses.

Ours was a farm of almond trees. So heavy with fruit their branches almost grazed the ground. After seven years of waiting for them to mature, they were ready to supply their first yield. But rather than the bountiful harvest anticipated, we walked through scorched rows of skeletons scavenging for nut hulls that looked salvageable.

We had planned to take the girls on their first forest walk through Drymonas and its waterfalls at the start of the summer. Within a week, everything had changed. The forest we longed to introduce them to was gone, leaving little of its quiet magic for this generation to inherit.

The drive from Mantoudi to Agia Anna — *What remains of once scenic drives from Mantoudi to Agia Anna after the wildfires*

WHY NORTH EVIA?

Various reasons may continue to bring you to North Evia: It’s a gateway to the Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos) from Mantoudi’s new port. You might also be on a healing pilgrimage to Prokopi, also unharmed after a freak rain shower uncannily occurred after believers gathered at its church to intercede for a miracle. Seaside Limni—arguably northern Evia’s prettiest village—continues to charm with its elegant waterfront, while Agia Anna’s sweeping sea views remain as captivating as ever despite the loss of its surrounding forest. And then there’s Edipsos, whose famous thermal springs and historic spa hotels emerged unscathed.

FIRST STOP: CHALKIDA

Entrypoint to Evia on the island’s closest point to the mainland, Chalkida is picturesque and petite. Sizable enough to support basic city conveniences for its 100,000 strong population, locals might be able to get their fill of Zara and Oysho, but have to head out to Athens for the cinema.

The city’s feature is a waterside promenade lined with cafes-bars and restaurants designed for family strolls and kiddie scoots. Continue past the old bridge crossing over the “crazy tidal waters” that riddled Aristotle himself, and you will find Asteria. An expansive outdoor waterfront bar and restaurant that welcomes little ones with a playground positioned within clear view of a section of dining tables. If we needed accommodation in Chalkida, we’d look between this part of the promenade and the center, or one of the seafront Airbnbs in Alykes.

Chalkida’s waterfront promenade.
Playground by the sea near Asterias in Chalkida

Alykes is Chalkida’s summer highlight for us – a child-friendly beach only the locals seem privy to. With clear blue waters that lap over soft golden sand, it’s impressive for these parts. Personally, I find much of the island’s coastline more rugged than remarkable, with darker sands and pebbly shores. Settled by an assembly of cafe-bars for every taste, Daluz at the far right corner (as you face the sea) is our favourite with wood-framed sunbeds, breezy electro tunes, and a gently sloping seabed clear of large rocks.

*Daluz beach bar on Alykes in Chalkida – one of the most child-friendly beaches in the region*

THE ROAD TO MANTOUDI – GATEWAY TO THE SPORADES (SKIATHOS, SKOPELOS, ALONISSOS)

After exiting Chalkida, the drive north involves 40-minutes of dizzying twists through pine-carpeted highlands, before meeting Kireas river. It used to be prettier here, with water-loving plane trees crowding its banks, filtering the light through a lacework leaf canopy. Today, that beauty has been altered. An invasive disease that specifically targets plane trees has swept through the valley, leaving skeletal trunks where denser greenery once stood.

Prokopi village square and the Church of Saint John the Russian, North Evia — *Prokopi village square with the Church of Saint John the Russian in the background*

Not long after, the road reaches Prokopi, the first village of note in northern Evia. It is best known as a place of pilgrimage, where worshippers come seeking the intercession of Saint John the Russian, one of the Eastern Orthodox Church’s most revered saints. Around the church, the village square is lined with shops selling Evian pine honey and other traditional local products, reflecting the steady stream of pilgrims and visitors who pass through each year.

*On the way to Mantoudi, Alexiou’s is a special café stop with expansive garden grounds*.

Loukoumades — *Honey drizzled, cinnamon sprinkled, loukoumades doughnut balls*

Mandoudi’s village centre is just another 10-minute drive away. Once a thriving regional hub, its magnesite mines and processing plants powered the local economy for decades. Today, like many villages across rural Greece, it has grown quieter as its population has dwindled.

ΑΛΜΥΡΊΚΙ Taverna Kria Visi Beach, North Evia — *ALMYRIKI* – Dining among the fields just five minutes from Mandoudi, this remains one of our favourite neighbourhood tavernas.

Kimasi Beach and Port, just a five-minute drive from the village centre, is the gateway to the Sporades each summer. Fast ferries whisk travellers across to Skiathos in 40 – 60 minutes, while the pristine waters of the Alonnisos Marine Park are also within easy reach, making even exotic island escapes feel remarkably accessible for North Evians.

AGIA ANNA – A FAMILY-FRIENDLY COASTAL RETREAT

Our preferred swimming beach in North Evia is where yiayia (Grandma) is from. An endless sweep of charcoal shores, Agia Anna is Evia’s longest beach, looking out into the gentle outline of Skopelos in the horizon. Pebbly on the “organised” end (i.e. providing sunbeds and food service) with cafes and taverns lining the boardwalk, the sandier, wilder bit is where four-star, simple-but-sleek Thalatta resides. Bringing a surprise bit of flash when it first arrived on the nonchalant village scene, it’s now a seaside destination in itself, fitted out with family-sized rooms (just be careful of stairs with toddlers), airy restaurants, and even a kids club.

By North Evia’s sleepy standards, Agia Anna is something of a tourist “hotspot”. Yet it has also given us some of our most relaxed family days. We linger over coffee and homemade sweets beneath the mulberry trees at Remetzo while the girls transform a weathered tree stump on the beach in front into a vaulting table. Evenings once belonged to Maistrali (closed for the 2026 season), where its enviable beachfront setting became the backdrop for endless games of hide-and-seek during3-hour dinners. For beautifully fresh seafood, Trata remains another dependable favourite.

Some menu tips in these parts: order thrapsalo instead of fried calamari – distinctly more tender and tasty. And trade lobster for crayfish – sublimely sweet and delicately succulent. The region is also famed for its specialty shellfish like gialisteres, chténia scallops, and razor clams.

Maistrali Tavern Agia Anna, North Evia — *Seafront seafood dining at Maistrali*

COASTAL DRIVES, SEASIDE TOWNS & THERMAL SPRINGS

A scenic seaside road runs from Limni to Rovies and Edipsos in the northeast. And while the fires consumed Limni and Rovies, it self-extinguished in Ilia before reaching the thermal spring spa town and port of Edipsos.

Built on the prosperity of generations of seafaring captains, the seaside village of Limni is, in our view, northern Evia’s prettiest. As tourism has gently gathered pace, once-neglected neoclassical mansions have been restored into boutique hotels, stylish cafés and cocktail bars, while traditional tavernas continue to anchor village life. The Lakehouse is the area’s most polished new boutique stay, while Karnagio remains our favourite taverna—book ahead if you can, as tables are often in demand.

True to its name—Limni means “lake” in Greek—the harbour is often so still that it lends the waterfront an almost meditative calm. Its glass-clear waters reveal the rocky seabed below, where children delight in tossing crumbs to darting fish, ducks glide past leaving fleeting ripples, and colourful kaikia—traditional wooden fishing boats—bob gently on the mirror-like surface.

Baroux in Limni, North Evia — Coffee, cocktails and serenity at Barous in Limni.

While you might find teens dive bombing off Limni’s pier, we prefer Kochyli’s supersized family umbrellas for swims when Agia Anna gets wavy. Calm and washed over by crystalline waters, its waters are good for tots with some care, as its pebbly seabed gets steep quickly.

Limni's beach — *Family-friendly Kochyli beach in Limni is a 3-minute drive from its center*

If you’d rather combine a swim with lunch or dinner, head one beach further to Paralia. Equipped with sunbeds, umbrellas, a beach bar and a seaside taverna, it’s an easy place to spend the day without moving the car. There’s also a small playground beside the taverna—well used and a little weathered, but still enough to keep younger children happily occupied between bites.

Paralia Beach Bar, Rovies, North Evia — Paralia Pine & Sea in Rovies – where beach days drift into long seaside lunches.

A 30-minute drive from Rovies is North Evia’s most famous draw. The thermal springs of Edipsos drew all from Aristotle and Marcus Aurelius to Winston Churchill by the curative powers of its rich mineral content. A stately 19th century Thermae Sylla Wellness Hotel dominates the small spa town. Natural wells fill its pools daily with enriching waters saturated with metals and chemicals. While its indoor pool is only for guests over 15, infants and young children can enjoy it’s outdoor pool with sea water mixed into its spring waters. If you’re not a hotel guest, you can still enjoy the area’s therapeutic waters in the beach fronting the hotel where spring waters spill into the sea.

FROM EDIPSOS, TO OMPHALOS

Also a small port, from Edipsos you can cross over by ferry (which also transports cars) to the mainland port of Arkitsa in 45 minutes. Why? Because in another hour-and-a-half by car you can find your way to omphalos – the center of the ancient world. Kings, warriors and other supplicants similarly journeyed here seeking guidance from the oracle of Delphi at the Temple of Apollo. Carved into the towering rocks of Mount Parnassus (also a winter ski destination), the temple ruins continue to elicit wonderment. Best visited with a guide, walk its expansive grounds in the cooler months of spring and autumn.

GETTING THERE

Connected to the mainland by bridge, Evia is easy to get to. Chalkida (its capital) is a good day trip destination from Athens in under an hour’s drive. It’s also served by small ferry ports in Mantoudi, Edipsos, Agiokampos in the north, Kymi in central Evia, and Marmari and Nea Stira down south. There is no airport on the island.

Dec 17, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

The Quiet Drama of Serifos: A Family Guide

by Lindsay Sep 29, 2021

written by Lindsay

Mountainous, majestic, and ruggedly handsome, Serifos’ elemental allure is an open secret for discerning Athenian vacationers. From glorious sunrise to sublime sunset, soaring peaks to sparkling shores, and scenic hikes to dreamy coastal drives, its pleasures are simple and spectacular.

🏖️🤿🏺

^{Last updated: 29 June 2025}

Spanning 75 square kilometers and with two main villages, Serifos might be small, but it’s savvy. On the only road etched into hanging cliffs southeast, edgy design villas and sprawling estates hint at its unique draw. “Kaisanji” (translated as “the temple of mountain and sea”) is one – an odd name on a little Greek island. Greece’s first Zen monastery, devotees discover the original self through meditation and yoga in Xerolithi House – a wave-like building sculpture that blends masterfully into the island’s dramatic hillscape. NCaved house is another architectural sensation that typifies the island – discreet, yet disarmingly beautiful. And then there’s Blue Bamboo – an unexpected outpost of a contemporary Thai restaurant we frequent in Athens.

*On the road to Ganema, boutique design hotels with expansive ocean views dot the cliff’s edge.*

With its wild and untamed allure, is Serifos family-friendly? Comparatively undeveloped, it doesn’t have the waterparks and highly-honed kids tours of the likes of Naxos and Paros. And while the “organised” (as they say in Greece, referring to beaches with cafe-bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds) bits of beaches are limited, other sweet spots offer amenities like tavernas on the beach.

Beyond the sand, there isn’t heaps to do on the island. But ravishing beauty is everywhere. In this authentic, carnation-shaped island, nature takes centerstage as the best kind of playground for children: climb the low-slung tree branches on the shores of Livadaki, build sandcastles on Psilli Ammos (“fine sand” in Greek), scale rocks at Ganema, make friends… Greek children are an especially friendly lot, and will often hover around other children, or even approach your taverna table to strike up a new playmate.

Climbing tamarisk trees at Livadakia, Serifos, Greece — *Climbing tamarisks at Livadaki*.

My vote for the best thing to do on the island for families against its cinematic backdrop ? The family photoshoot. Dads may wince at the sound of this, but I have never brought home a souvenir from Greece I treasure more. As I tore the family from the beach and chased them like chickens to meet photographer (and award-winning island beekeeper) Nikos Kokolakis at 6:30pm at the Chora, I started to question the wisdom of my arrangement. But after sighting the artful keepsakes he delivered, I would do it ten times over again.

Serifos is one of the easier Cylcadic islands to get to. While flights are not an option without an airport, it’s just a two-and-a-half hour high-speed ferry ride away from Piraeus port in Athens.

WHERE TO STAY

Livadi port is an obvious place to base yourselves as the island’s largest settlement with its conveniences (mini markets, bakeries, a pharmacy, seafront tavernas, cafés and gelaterias). Also consider neighbouring Livadakia if a good beach is important to you. Essentially an extension of Livadi, the sea here is a notch more beautiful than Livadi’s, with waters that are calm, clear, shallow, and bordered by wispy mounds of tamarisk crests.

*The port of Livadi, also with the island’s longest beach and the calmest waters.*

Alternatively, a selection of boutique hideaways dot the edge of the beaches of Agios Sostis, Psilli Ammos and Agios Ioannis (all just 10 minutes from Livadi). Thinking of the southern side? Vagia and Ganema located farther out also offer seafront accomodation, but are more isolated.

While Serifos’ picturesque hilltop capital (“Chora”) draws with arresting vistas flushed with the magical hues of sunrise and sunset, I’d advise against this option. Strewn with footpaths featuring an endless terrace of double-height steps to battle with, it’s not designed for people with little legs. It’s also not designed for cars. As the evening sets in, you are likely to find yourself meandering through its streets to find parking for half and hour with one small public lot that quickly fills up.

BEACH HIGHLIGHTS

Serifos’ top beaches rival the best in the Cyclades. Those in the south-eastern quarter boast the turquoise and gold variety. Its southern shores have a dark and wild appeal due to the presence of iron oxide once responsible for its mining wealth. Here, we list the more accessible options that don’t require intrepid treks and tumultuous drives. Remember to have a plan for shade. It’s also a good idea to check the wind strength and direction before heading out, because instead of crystal calm waters, you might find heady waves when the north meltimi winds blow at 6 beauforts.

*Serifos’ beaches are stunning (here at Psilli Ammos), including child-friendly options.*

VILLAGE WALKS (AND CHILD-FRIENDLY EATS)

Serifos’ main villages of interest are seaside Livadi and hilltop Chora. Both bite-sized, with a handful of smart boutiques and an unexpectedly pulsating nightlife in the square of the Chora. A smattering of 14 other sleepy settlements (some deserted) are sprinkled throughout the island. Megalo Livadi is the more interesting, with building remnants attesting to its mining history that are worth exploring.

— LIVADI —

Small, but complete, Livadi is where you will consistently return to for coffee (Indigo makes a good roast), ice cream (Scoop, or neighbouring Cherie for rainbow sprinkles on top), peponi (honey-sweet Greek melons) and peaches from the mini mart (K Supermarket is the most well-stocked), and plasters from the pharmacy.

A diverse selection of tavernas line the waterfront. Most are squeezed close to the port, with little space to play. Head to the quieter side of the beach where Axinos sits for a thoroughly more relaxed setting. Oozing laid back cool in neutral platteted interiors, its menu is an enticing mix of modern Greek. You can order a lamb shank or T-bone steak, but seafood is the highlight, where succulent crayfish swim in silky risotto, and juicy-crisp grouper sits grilled on a celeriac bed. There’s also an exciting dessert selection to finish. Take note that many restaurants in Serifos are late starters (e.g. 4 pm in classic Greek tradition), apart from beach tavernas. Check opening times before you count on being served.

Axinos seafood taverna in Serifos, Greece — *Our favourite dining experience on the island – Axinos*

Lodged in the backstreets of Livadi, I blinked twice when I spotted Blue Bamboo on Google maps. Asian food in Greek islands is typically not to be trusted, but this is the real Thai food transport from Athens. Unlike its cramped Athenian counterpart, its spacious boho-chic garden grounds are laced with fairy-light garlands for a festive atmosphere. There’s liberal ground for playful scampers in between tables, so parents can count on dining peacefully on pad thais, red curries, and tom kha gai (coconut based soup).

Blue Bamboo Thai Restaurant in Serifos — *Thai foood relief at Blue Bamboo*

Too tired to eat out? A mageireio is what you’re looking for. At Taverna Marina by the port, a display of home-style Greek dishes greets you at the kitchen counter, ready to be packed up for takeaway. Think comforting, slow-cooked recipes without the wait of a restaurant meal.

— CHORA —

Tumbling down from a 230 metre mountain peak behind the port, Serifos’ Chora is an unmissable vision of Cycladic Greek village beauty. It’s also a tiny one, involving a seemingly endless climb up a maze of narrow alleyways and vertiginous steps. Impossible with strollers, bring your baby carrier and trained glutes instead.

Follow any flight of stairs upwards, and somehow, you should end up in Agios Athanasios Square. The diminutive heartbeat of the island, an imposing neoclassical town hall built in 1904 is its centerpiece. Circled by café -bars and restaurants with tables spilling into the square, these colourful dining holes-in-whitewashed-walls are not just eye candy, but serious eateries serving meze-type fare.

Agios Athanasios square in Ano (Upper) Chora at sunset.
Stop by Skaraveos for succulent souvlaki in Ano Chora.
Serifos’ neoclassical townhall.

Continue towards the castle top, resisting the temptation to turn back on the steep ascent through quiet residential streets. Even with kids. It won’t be long before you reach the church of Agios Konstantinos, teetering 823 feet above the sea with the most magnificent island vistas.

If anyone needs encouragement along the way, “Oh My Sweet Spot” is a gelataria and loukoumades (doughnut-like balls) bolthole worth all its evils. For little D, a promise of pita gyros—succulent slices of rotisserie-cooked pork with fries tucked into warm pita—is just as effective. Stop by Skaraveos for takeaway deliciousness of the classic Greek comfort food.

It pays to visit the Chora in the early evening, giving you ample time before sunset to soak in the views. Parking anyways in the one public parking lot (near the bus station at the entrance of Ano or Upper Chora) is limited, so a head start before the lingering beach crowds make their way will reward greatly.

WHEN TO VISIT

Sitting for our usual morning coffee under the tall tamarisks of Grandma’s cafe outside our Airbnb on Ganema, Dimitris tells us they will soon close for the season. It was the 27th of August. A little early even for a small island, but Ganema is a quiet beach, and he has an IT business in Athens to run. Such is the seasonal exodus that leaves tourist-dependent islands desolate in late autumn and winter, re-opening for business sometime in May. For small islands like Serifos just starting to grapple with the build-up of tourism arrivals in peak summer months (July and August), June and the tail-end of August are better times to visit.

GETTING THERE

There is no airport on Serifos, which is just as well to deter the crowds. A two hour high-speed ferry trip from Athens‘ Pireaus port, it sits on the ferry line that connects it with Sifnos and Milos (with a domestic airport). Mykonos also has international connections and is a 2 hour fast-ferry away. More island pairing opportunities according to transport links available can also be viewed here

FIND A FERRY TO SERIFOS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing for ferries to Sifnos from Pireaus.

Sep 29, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

Mykonos with Family – A Heavenly Holiday or Headache?

by Lindsay Sep 21, 2021

written by Lindsay

Dripping with a singular blend of cosmopolitan-Cycladic chic, swimming in Champagne and sparkling seas, then seducing with high-octane hospitality and enlightened cuisine, Mykonos is enticing.

🏖️ 👨‍🌾 🏇🏻 🎨 🏛️

But we have two kids under four. With its reputation for hedonism and extravagance, were we in for a headache or a holiday?

Encouraged by fond memories from younger days on the island, we were determined to find the quieter, traditional soul of Mykonos. What did we discover? It takes quite a bit for families to find precious breathing corners on one of Greece’s most glorified must-sees. We share them here.

THE BEACH SCENE

Mykonos has what its famous counterpart Santorini doesn’t – a stunning shoreline. But with its popularity came the creative privatisation of beaches in a country where this is supposedly not allowed. One step away from blocking access to the best bits of beach, entire swathes of shore are smothered with the sunbeds of seafront hotels and clubs.

It’s not that I don’t appreciate the comforts of a parasol and sunbed—especially when travelling with young children, when there’s already enough to carry without adding umbrellas and beach chairs to the list. But when almost an entire beach is given over to organised seating, the sense of openness that makes a day by the sea so restorative begins to disappear.

Tropicana beach club in Mykonos Island, Greece — *While we appreciate the comforts of an organised beach, Mykonos has a way of marring its natural beauty with excess.*

Mykonos also boasts the highest umbrella rental charges in Greece (ranging from €40 to €80 a pair). Some clubs will impose an additional minimum spend on food and drink. In upscale Paraga, that’s €80 of burgers and club sandwiches you need to consume. If you are a large family frequenting the beach daily, the price tag is a hefty one for the average traveller.

The best of the island’s beaches line its southern coast, also protected from north Meltemi winds. Determined to dodge the exploitative tourist traps, while seeking out the best of Mykonos’ beaches that have not sunken under the crowds, these were our seaside retreats:

— ELIA —

The island’s longest sweep of beach, there’s a liberating feeling of space on Elia, in spite of a sea of parasols. A slip of sand dividing the main from the nudist section allows free campers to throw their towels down. The waters at Elia are crystal clear, and in Maldivian shades of blue. Just watch for the seabed which drops quickly when in the company of first swimmers. Parking is located right behind.

— KATO LIVADI —

Our favourite, also with plenty of coastline and a sparkling turquoise sea, the unorganised section here is slightly more generous than at Elia. Taking center stage is Lohan beach house, as subdued as its namesake low-key status after infamy in her younger, wilder years. With widely spaced-out sunbeds and a relaxing palette of-neutral toned interiors, this was an unexpected haven of contemporary cool.

— PARADISE BEACH —

Challenged to find a consistent line in online reviews of the island’s best family-friendly beaches, the hunt for beaches that ticked all our checkboxes was frustrating: family-friendly Ornos is small and spilled over with sunbeds. Its sea, choked by boats, was also hardly a relaxing sight. The waters at Paraga were beautiful, but the clubs monopolising the beach were exorbitant. Quieter Agrari had a rocky seabed and darker waters that were not as inviting. Agios Ioannis as well.

So after a morning of disappointment with the alternatives, we succumbed to revisiting the hangouts of our youth where we were guaranteed a sublime bit of beach, in spite of the reputations of its resident beach clubs (Paradise and Super Paradise) on the islands most famous beach coves. Tropicana was our first stop on the stretch for no particular reason. And suggesting a reasonable €35 per pair of sunbeds and a €10 minimum spend, we settled here. A little busy for our liking? Yes, particularly after 12 p.m. as the late-starters stream in. But we fixed our gaze on the glorious blues of the calm sea and cloudless skies overhead, instead. The music? As with most clubs in Mykonos, it starts at a bearable volume level with the day, but grows louder with the setting sun.

*Tropicana beach club at Paradise beach.*

NAVIGATING THE CHORA (MAIN TOWN)

The joys of any Greek Chora are its meandering alleyways that surprise with hidden cafes, tranquil chapels, colourful boutiques, bustling tavernas, and in Mykonos, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Blinged-out Matoyianni Street is the most scenic lane in the disorienting tangle of backstreets. While we always enjoy leisurely walks through idyllic Cycladic villages, our automated response here was to whizz through the mobs, yanking our kids as we went.

*An aerial view of Mykonos town. For breathing space, head to the old port pictured in the bottom right hand corner.*

Steer towards the old port for a little more breathing space. This is always where you will find local artisan Irene Syrianou’s mosaic studio. Faithful to the Delos mosaics she watched over for ten years as resident guard, she uses ancient techniques to make exquisite replicas accurate to the last stone count. Hosting workshops for young and old, Irene is a natural with children. Little D spent an enjoyable hour with her as we escaped to the waterfront one street away for a coffee. This is likely the best spot for dining with kids if you’re in the Chora. You might even get lucky and run into a Pelican (the island’s mascot) or three, roaming the harbour.

Mosaic art workshop in Mykonos Island, Greece — *Explore artisan mosaic crafts with Irene Syrianou.*

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Greek Choras (main towns) are usually an obvious accommodation choice of convenience. In Mykonos, it’s also a nightmarish choice for nerves sensitive to crowds crammed into tight alleys.

High in the hills above au naturale Agios Sostis beach, White Dune Villa was our solace. A 20-minute drive from Chora and the island’s main beaches, we were glad to escape the busy streets for expansive sea views enjoyed in solitude. But even this wasn’t enough to feel relaxed in Mykonos. Our neighbours wanted to let it rip after lockdown. Thankfully, our hosts (a lovely local family living one door down) hushed the commotion by 11p.m. according to Greece’s national quiet hours ruling.

*White Dune Villa overlooking Agios Sostis beach.*

Alternatively, pick a beach that appeals, and look up hotels in the area (Elia comes to mind). Or if swank factor is a priority, choose one of the island’s many swoon worthy hotels to be guided on your resident beach.

DINING WITH CHILDREN

Every local we met suggested Kiki’s Tavern as the place to dine. Just steps from our Airbnb in Agios Sostis, a gathering of would-be diners crowded its entrance for a spot in the tiny tavern each time we visited. Such is the rarity of authenticity, and the desire for a simple Greek salad and grilled meat, in Mykonos.

Spacious, without Kiki’s-type queues, refreshingly friendly, and complete with great views, try these retreats for meals out with kids instead:

— FOKOS TAVERNA —

On wild, dark, and far out Fokos sits a stone and cement home with a talented kitchen. Busy, but not overly so, enjoy delectable seafood with expansive vistas of a near deserted sea.

— LIMNIOS TAVERN —

The vibe in Agios Stefanos, the closest beach to the new port, is that of a sleepy seaside town. Limnios is similarly laid-back, overlooking its sandy, mellow shores with Delos in the background. We had a moussaka that tasted like something mom makes, and a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank that she couldn’t.

— NOSOTROS —

Also on Agios Stefanos, just a two minute drive from the busy new port, is unpretentiously stylish Nosotros. A serene breakfast or lunch stop if you have 40 minutes to spare before catching your ferry, parking is right outside so you can zip in and out. Its other draw is G. & D. Market next door. A mini market with a pastry section, we weren’t expecting to take away the most heavenly bougatsas (a cream-filled pastry) in our recent memory for the ferry trip ahead.

While we didn’t make it to Nicolas Taverna suggested by our Airbnb hosts, this looks like a place worth mentioning which I still wish we made time for.

HOW FAMILY-FRIENDLY?

A sophisticated tourist machine, Mykonos has its fair share of child-friendly entertainment. At Ippos, children over five can hop on a horse for riding lessons, or to explore nature trails leading to secluded beaches. Vioma is a bio-dynamic farm spouting classical music from its speakers to soothe members of its farm family, including Marika the donkey and Marusso the sheep.

Yet, it became somewhat of a stress point to constantly be on the search for a sliver of quietness and authenticity in the madding crowds of Mykonos. The most desirable beaches have been marred by sunbeds, sunseekers, and overdevelopment. Instead of soul-warming dishes distilled from the recipes of successive generations of Greek yiayias (Grandmas), minute portions of deconstructed fare were presented by disgruntled waiters in place. Our whole quest started to feel somewhat silly. Where would we find Greece on an island with hardly any Greeks?

But perhaps you’re there for a wedding. Or using it as a stopover (instead of Athens) to ferry to other destinations in the Cyclades from Europe. Manage your expectations, choose your venues wisely, come with deep pockets anyways, tap into your inner love for luxury, and you may just end up enamoured by the enduring magic of Mykonos.

WHEN TO VISIT

Island resident Irene tells us her favourite month is October – when the island is relieved of the tourist frenzy, days remain sunny, and sea temperatures still hover over 20°C. Spring in Greece is also always a beautiful time, and perfect for archaeological walks (e.g. exploring neighbouring Delos). The island starts readying itself for tourist season in April and May, and its waters heat up nicely by June. Avoid July and August at all costs. And while winter travel is possible, take note that many businesses start to close in late October.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Mykonos in 45 minutes from Athens. Refurbished in 2021, their Cycladic-cool airport also has international connections to London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry from Pireaus and Rafina ports will get you there in two-and-a-half hours. We prefer Rafina being less chaotic, while the spacious Golden Star Super Express ferry is our vessel of choice.

FIND A FERRY TO MYKONOS

Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Mykonos from Pireaus port.

Sep 21, 2021 0 comment

Destinations

A Sweeping Survey of the Greek Isles & How to Select Yours

by Lindsay Jan 26, 2021

written by Lindsay

Last updated: Jan 2025

Where do your island dreams take you? Dark and wild or blonde and Maldivian-blue, we share some key considerations when selecting Greek islands to find your match made in Olympus.

1. What’s Your Scene?

The Greek islands of Milos, Kefalonia and Evia

WHITE & BLUE

I like my islands bare and rocky. Characteristic of the Cyclades (Santorini, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Milos, Folegandros, Sifnos, Serifos, and other ruggedly handsome neighbours), this is where the country’s signature white sugar-cube villages with blue church top domes artfully blend into the stark silhouette of arid surroundings.

BLUE & GREEN

If you prefer luxuriant vegetation and tree-lined beaches to lay your mat under, try:

The Sporadic islands: Skiathos and Skopelos, both used as film sites for Mama Mia! And then there is Alonissos – a secret nature reserve rich in flora and fauna, and the largest marine protected area in Europe.
The Ionian islands: A cluster of islands in the Ionian sea less famous than they should be. Receiving three times more rainfall those in the Aegean, its lands are mountainous, green and fertile. Star attractions include cosmopolitan Corfu, Lefkada with bluer-than-blue beaches, Kefalonia, and the breathtaking Paxoi islands.
Andros: Two hours from Rafina port in Athens, Andros is a Cycladic outpost unlike its neighbours. It’s also the greenest, with hiking paths running through forested mountains dotted with waterfalls and springs. Once a maritime center, a stately Chora (an island’s capital) enchants with marble neoclassical mansions built by the shipping families that gathered.
Samothrace: Next to Thassos is the quiet birthplace of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. Bordering the coast of Turkey, this exotic boho escape is a natural wonderland. Rock pools, mineral springs, waterfalls and streams all nestle within its forested interiors.

SOMETHING IN-BETWEEN

For a bit of both, where towering rocks blend into soft dense greenery, Kefalonia and Zakynthos have that sweep-you-off-your-feet effect with striking beauty. And for more drama, Meteora, Folegandros, and Amorgos also lure with impressive and imposing landscapes.

2. Airport, or Not?

Are you prepared to brave the Greek ferry system? If you prefer to fly-in, take note that most Greek islands don’t have an airport. Crete and Evia aside, there are 6 main Greek island groups (Cyclades, Dodecanese, Ionion, Sporadic, Saronic, North Aegean). Apart from the Saronic island group (closest to the mainland), each of the others have a handful of islands with a domestic or international airport. If you plan on island-hopping, its generally easier to choose islands within the same island group. There are also road trip options to consider.

3. Research Your Beaches

A Greek summer staple, the island hunt for us surrounds the quest for beautiful beaches. How do you like yours? Sandy or pebbly? Furnished with human comforts, or deserted and inaccessible by car? Or if you’re not bothered by beaches much, Santorini, Folegandros, Syros, Sifnos, Tinos, and Hydra are better known for their village attractions.

THE CHILD-FRIENDLY NECESSITY

Beach hunting with kids has been whittled down to three-pronged search for shallow & still waters, sandcastle-fit shores, and sunbeds. They also should be easy to get to. The destinations with qualifying candidates are many and marvellous. Some of our family favourites include Naxos, Paros, Sifnos (without an airport), and Limnos.

ORGANISED & UNORGANISED?

Useful to know is the distinction between “organised” and “unorganised” beaches. In Greece, an “organised beach” is furnished with umbrellas and sunbeds. On quieter islands, you just have to be a patron of beach bar with the set-up. On busier islands, expect to pay anywhere from €5 to €25 a pair, or €40 to €80 if you’re on Mykonos.

An “unorganised” beach does not have umbrellas and sunbeds set-up. Look instead for a taverna or cantina nearby to supply food and drink .

If you are so brave to go unorganised with child and all your baby bits and bobs, a new world of options unfold:

Koufonisia and islands within the Small Cyclades (Schinoussa and Dounossa). Blessed with a string of show-stopping beaches you can enjoy in relative quietude, we packed our car in with beach gear so we could plant ourselves on Koufonisia’s glorious shores all day.
Serifos: Psilli Ammos, Agios Sosis… Serifos has a diversity of unspoilt beaches to explore.
Elafonisos: Because two is better than one, double-sided Simos beach in Elafonisos is a road trip option nicely combined with a visit to medieval Monemvasia castle town.

4. Deserted or Developed?

Are you looking for an elemental island escape with unpaved roads and beaches unblemished? Or polished alleys leading to Louis Vuitton around the corner from YiaYia’s (grandma’s) house? For tourists easily repulsed by tourism and development, Greece has much to offer. But then there are untouched, and untouched gems you really want to visit. Alonissos, Lemnos, and Ikaria (where people live longer) are some that promise restoration for the world-weary.

You may, however, (as I do) appreciate a sushi break between taverna visits and chic island shopping. Jet set-savvy destinations like Santorini, Mykonos and Paros lie on the other end of the spectrum.

Practical-sort-of-parents seeking sufficient development to include large supermarkets and access to better-than-basic health services should pick larger islands (e.g. Crete, Corfu and Rhodos), or a mainland destination like Chalkidiki. Syros (Ermoupolis), capital of the Cyclades, is also self-sufficient with large supermarkets and a full hospital.

5. Choose Your Village

Perfect summer days in Greece end with evenings exploring villages: cafes and kafeneios (traditional coffee houses where grandpas gather), ouzeries and bars, tavernas in vibrant village squares, pretty boutiques, Greek orthodox churches, petite archaeological museums with priceless treasures, and possibly, a castle.

Greek Villages in Symi, Rhodos and Santorini

Cycladic villages hold a special place for me. With minimalist architecture, clean lines, white and cobalt blue contrasts, a soulful surprise of life reside behind perfectly uniform exteriors. Tourists flock to Santorini primarily to enjoy Cycladic village beauty blessed with incredible vistas (the beaches in Santorini are not to shout about). For a purer experience of Cycladic villages without the crowds, try Sifnos.

Looking for a different village vibe? Consider Syros and Symi, with neoclassical houses that stand elegantly in a festival of colours. There’s also little but impressive Hydra, where cars are not allowed. Stone-built mountain villages like Pelion are another kind of special with a fairytale-likeness to them.

6. Find Your Perfect Hideaway

Sometimes the idyllic vacation villa determines our choice of island. Particularly when we have found a beach house steps away from pristine waters.

In Greece, we usually pick an Airbnb estate over space-starved hotel rooms and common pools for stays over 3 days. Professionally run and practically equipped (with washing machines, kitchen equipment, travel cots and high chairs), bi and tri weekly cleaning services are also common. Where to look? Seaside villages (with swimmable beaches) are an ideal set-up. Suggestions include: Plaka in Naxos, Aliki in Paros, Platis Gialos in Sifnos, Livadakia in Serifos, Panormos and Skopelos, Votsi bay in Alonissos, Mylopotas in Ios, and Batsi in Andros.

Another tempting option for families are luxe beach resorts that lure with babysitting, back-to-nature kids activities, aqua parks, morning yoga and massages. Acclaimed names include: Costa Navarino (Mainland Messinia – two hour drive from Athens) with its string of luxury hotels, Amanzoe (Porto Heli), Sani (Chalkidiki), Porto Zante (Zakynthos) and Daios Cove (Crete). Prefer to nestle in closer to nature in a sort-of camping option that will be a hit with kids, with all the frills mom loves in a holiday? Try Ergon Beach House in Chalkidiki.

7. Pick an Adventure

There may be little left of the ancient ruins that remain, but there is something that moves me in the presence of historical rubble. The better preserved archaeological digs include: the uninhabited island of Delos (around which the Cycladic islands circle around, and a daytrip option from Mykonos), Akrotiri (Greece’s Pompeii in Santorini), the Minoan palace of Knossos (Crete), and The Temple of Aphaia (Aegina). Kos, birthplace of Hippocrates, boasts a significant collection of sites to explore alongside great beaches, including the healing center and Sanctuary of Asklepion.

On the mainland, notable attractions aside from the Parthenon include Delphi, Mycenae, Olympia and Temple of Apollo Epicurius.

You can even combine archaeological exploits with adventure sports. Keen on diving through an underwater archaeological site? In Alonissos resides the “Parthenon of shipwrecks”. Dating back to 425 B.C., recreational divers will be able to visit the undersea antiquities museum later this year.

Alternatively, drop the historical focus entirely. Hike, windsurf, river trek, cycle, rock climb, go whitewater rafting … There’s a world-class environment for most adventure sports. And of course, there’s sailing.

Culinary adventures are not to be missed on these fertile, sunbaked lands where farm-to-table is the norm, not a novelty. Go on a wild edible mushroom hunt in the forests of Epirus. Join an olive harvest in September and October. Discover up-and-coming wineries gaining worldwide attention. Even on hedonistic Mykonos, you can find a farmstead for kids to unearth their meals. Or simply, just eat. While good food is everywhere in Greece, Sifnos and Tinos have reputations for standout gastronomy.

Jan 26, 2021 0 comment

Cyclades

A Family Guide to Paros – The Greek Island of the Moment

by Lindsay Jan 29, 2020

written by Lindsay

Polished, poised and positioned for take-off, what’s to love about Greece’s pretty girl next door?

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Last updated: 3 July 2024

Boasting a winning combination of sparkling shores and whitewashed village charm, Paros is not just pretty. She’s approachable. Within its pebble-shaped, 200 square meters of gently undulating land, all is easily accessible.

She’s also balanced. While the island recently welcomed Greece’s fourth Nobu outpost in luxurious Avant Mar, it was also the first to launch Greece’s free towel movement to reclaim sunbed-ridden beaches. Locals are bent on ensuring development does not trample over its natural heritage. Whether your scene is sleepy or spirited, upscale or unpolished, the options for tourists are manifold.

Paros might lack the drama of some of its big hitting neighbours like Santorini, Mykonos and Milos, but her appeal, while understated, is quietly brilliant. Quite like its native translucent-white lychnite marble of unmatched luminescence. And she is steadily pulling-in crowds.

Naoussa Harbour, Paros Island, — *Touting its own brand of laidback luxe, Paros is the new go-to destination in the Cyclades.*

WHERE TO STAY

Where to stay is usually a toss-up between the main port of Parikia, and Naoussa (our preference), the island’s second largest town. Alternatively, Alyki is a serene seaside village retreat that’s especially perfect for young families.

You can also let your location be guided a dream beach house find – always an attractive option when travelling with kids. Bordered by coastal beauties that ring its pebble-shaped land, Paros has more seaside villa options than on most other Greek islands.

— PARIKIA – KRIOTIRI —

The island’s capital and commercial hub, Parikia is where ferry arrivals disembark. At first glance, it can feel like a tourist-oriented jumble of ferry traffic, waterfront tavernas and souvenir shops. But venture beyond the harbour and you’ll discover an old town that has retained much of its village charm. Built atop a settlement dating back to the 2nd millennium BCE, fragments of its long history reveal themselves around unexpected corners, from ancient masonry incorporated into whitewashed buildings, to the three 18th-century Mavrogenous marble fountains that once served as a gathering place for locals. When it’s time for a pause, settle into Symposium for coffee and a crêpe. Perched slightly above the lane beneath a canopy of bougainvillea, it’s a lovely spot to linger and watch the world wander by.

Parikia’s plethora of amenities make it delightfully convenient for families. Close by up north are the successive beaches of Livadia, Parikia, Krios, and Marcelo (with especially beautiful and child-friendly waters) with prime real estate for accommodation. Lined with cafe-bars and a scattering of apartment rentals, these beach coves offer coastal tranquility while still being close the action on the port.

— NAOUSSA —

We prefer Naoussa over Parikia to avoid the hustle and heat of busy main ports. An enchanting old fishing harbour with resident ducks tottering along the waterfront, it’s one of the most well-photographed Parian neighbourhoods. Alive with smart boutiques (pop into Yiannis Sergakis for a well-earned treat), slick restaurants and impeccably hip cafe-bars, the magic of Naoussa’s nocturnal playground comes alive at sundown. Bathed in a glow of pink and gold, a stream of the fit and fashionable fill waterfront tables to order ceviche and champagne. Inviting, but not particularly child-friendly. Moving around is only possible in a single file, sideways shuffle between tightly-packed tables. And if kids roam away, there’s the fear they might have fallen off the harbour’s edge.

For a more relaxed dining experience, head to To Thalami (note: under new management in 2025) in the sleepy fishing village of Ambelas a 10-minute drive out. Serving excellent seafood you can savour over sweeping sea views, this is Greek island dining at its best, where food and an easy ambience delight in equal measure.

*With crowded waterfronts, dining in Naoussa with children can be a challenge.*

Naoussa is also strategically located for families. Close to stunning northern beaches (e.g. Santa Maria, Monastiri and Kolymbithres), attractions like Thanasis Horse Farm, Petra Farm, and the island’s best supermarket (AB Vassilopoulos) are all within close range.

*Thalami seafood tavern in Ambelas looks out at Naxos across the sea*.

— ALYKI —

If your ideal summer holiday is one of quiet languor, consider Alyki. Just a 20-minute drive from Parikia, this unspoilt little fishing village ticks all the boxes for families. Like the tree-shaded, sea-facing playground located directly behind where the seaside promenade (pedestrian-only in the evening) starts, for example. And Sophie’s, for custard-filled bougatsa breakfasts when you can’t be bothered with a morning food prep. No energy for restaurant dining as well? Swing by Fusilli&Mandilli for aluminum packets of homemade Italian to heat-up in your Airbnb oven in 15 minutes. But if would rather the kids leave their spaghetti trail on a restaurant table, To Mouragio and To Balcony tou Aki served our best meals.

The wide and car-less waterfront promenade at Alyki.
Playgrounds by the sea – Alyki has two
Agios Nikolaous is an unorganised beach in Alyki a 10-minute walk from the main village
Mouragio seafood tavern by the waters edge

BEACH BEAUTIES

After Poseidon threw his trident, breaking up bits of land to create Naxos, Paros, and Antiparos, he adorned Paros with an especially beautiful coastline. With mostly swimmable shores encircling the island, you’re never too far from an easy-access, heat-relieving splash. Many are perfect for sandcastle building. There is also a beach for every taste: calm and crystalline coves (Faragas), sculptural bays (Kolymbithres), windswept windsurfing havens (Golden Beach and Punda), and even an all-natural clay beach for a healing mud bath (Kalogeros).

Santa Maria beach in Paros — *Pale, transparent, and welcoming, Santa Maria is a tot-friendly playground in Paros.*

Which of its 40 shores are the best places to throw down your towel and toys? We list our top three picks here.

OFF-BEACH ACTIVITIES WITH KIDS

If there were an all-inclusive island in Greece, it would probably be Paros. Visit a farm, hike through easy countryside terrain, take a pottery class…all the usual stuff you might expect from a tourist-savvy Greek island. The usual might also come with an elevated twist: horse ride down a Byzantine-era path paved in Parian marble, wander the spring-watered garden-haven of Jersey Tiger moths (complete with a café and playground), or paint your own postcard of a Paros-inspired scene in an evening watercolouring class in Parikia.

Butterfly garden paros — *Following trails in the nature reserve of Jersey Tiger moths.*

And then of course there are classic Cycladic villages to hunt for pit-stops with ice cream on tap. In the inland village string of Lefkes (Paros’ first capital), Prodromos, and Marpissa (with four windmills), it’s easy to forget you are on a popular Greek island. Preternaturally calm, with a particular beauty enhanced by the peeling paint of shuttered windows and doors set within chalk-white walls, its a haven for artists like ceramicist Todd Marshard. Pop into his studio-boutique for striking sculptural vessels with graceful, fluid forms.

Lefkes village in Paros — *Lovely Lefkes with a handful of tavernas, shops, and an ice-cream cafe (Meli).*

NEIGHBOURHOOD ATTRACTIONS

Located in the heart of the Cyclades, Paros is surrounded by attractive island neighbours connected by plentiful ferry lines running between a buffet of options. Antiparos (popularised by celebrity resident Tom Hanks) is a 10-minute daytrip by the local ferry service that runs daily (and year round), every 45 minutes from the small port of Pounta. Naxos (30 minutes via high-speed ferry) and Koufonisia are also close by, with beaches of unrivalled beauty. And while boat tours combining the latter two destinations are available, we think they deserve more time in themselves.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most small Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. June and September are my preferred times to visit for the best weather. July and August are peak months (and the hottest) prone to heatwaves, and better avoided for quieter beaches and easy village walks. Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is the loveliest time (if you don’t mind splashing into chillier waters), keeping in mind that the island’s businesses start to open in April, and close in October. By winter, the island’s population dwindles down to its 6,000 or so residents, and Paros is a dramatically difference place.

GETTING THERE

Swoop into the island’s domestic airport in an easy 40 minutes from Athens. Paros’ ferry port is a chaotic one, so flying in is likely a better idea for an easier time for families.

A high-speed ferry takes three hours from Piraeus port hub or the quieter port of Rafina (which we prefer) in Athens. Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here.

FIND A FERRY TO PAROS

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules and pricing to Paros from Pireaus.

Jan 29, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Naxos: The Greek Island Made for Families

by Lindsay Jan 15, 2020

written by Lindsay

Which Greek island is the best for families? Where Zeus spent his childhood, of course.

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_{Last updated 23 Jul 2026}

Greece is blessed with an abundance of alluring islands. But somehow, on Naxos, its attractions and conveniences all fall into place to take the heat off parents. Like glittering beaches that line-up mile after mile for effortless beach hopping. And how these sublime shores start from the main town, itself conveniently close to both the airport and ferry port. Need a break from the sun? Retire from the beach to swim in a sea of taverna potato chips – homegrown and said to be the best in the country. If anyone is still bored (or burdened), a plethora of children’s activities (pottery workshops, “Farmer for a Day” experiences,, bee farm visits, horse-riding, even a waterpark, and other highly-honed offerings for young tourists) stand ready to relieve parents of fidgety kids in tow.

View towards Portara in Naxos — *The island’s icon, the Potara in the far distance is an easy walk from town.*

Naxos may not boast of dramatic landscapes that make for spellbinding memories like Santorini or Milos. But it’s a dream destination for an easy-as-it-gets family holiday, presenting the best of Greece on a convenient platter for frazzled parents among us. And if you would like to avoid renting a car to get around, a decent bus system zips you from town to its main beach attractions.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Since our unit of two became four, we tend to seek out accommodation in serene seaside retreats. So we try to avoid the Chora (main town). As well as the seaside villages of Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna (unless you’re staying on its quieter southern end) with one-too-many boutique resorts and beach bars crammed in. In particular, I’d avoid Agios Prokopis with salt lakes behind the beach (visible as three pools on Google Maps) that occasionally omit unpleasant smells.

*Avoid staying near the salt lakes of Agios Prokopis*.

Moving south through Naxos’ fertile western lowlands, farmland gradually gives way to holiday homes set within generous gardens and open fields separated by tall bamboo hedges. Some are dotted with grazing cows, flocks of goats, and sheep huddled against drystone walls to hide from the midday sun —a veritable animal farm safari for the girls. Strict limits on what can be built on agricultural plots, or agrotemachia, have spared the area from dense coastal development, leaving tourist accommodation pleasantly dispersed across the landscape.

Feeding sheep in Naxos — Sheep eat bamboo leaves, it turns out.

In Plaka & Mikri Vigla, we found a good base for tranquility that’s still close to the best beaches and an attractive selection of restaurants and cafes. Mikri Vigla has the advantage of our favourite beach for family swims, while Plaka is 10 minutes closer to the Chora. Quieter than Plaka, Mikri Vigla is still complete with small supermarkets (we found Campos to be the most well-stocked in the area), bakeries (Naxos Bakery has an enticing selection of breads, cakes, ice-cream, and great coffee), a grill for pita gyros and pizzas, and traditional tavernas.

*Seaside Naxos is a 300-meter walk from Plaka beach*.

Our villa in Plaka is exemplary of Airbnb perfection. Seaside Naxos is a small complex of three and four-bedroom units. Spacious and tastefully put together with a coastal cool aesthetic, they’ve thought of all the little details for families – a daily cleaning service, toddler step stools, stair gates, cooking essentials, a blender for baby purees, beach toys and towels, and more conveniences you didn’t know you needed. Its exterior grounds are just as well-furnished as its interiors. With a mini orchard of a garden, the kids launch into a harvesting frenzy picking pears, lime and olives as soon as the sun relents. It felt like home, but better. Our only complaint? Rather than sitting right on the sand, it’s 300 meters away from Plaka beach.

Naxos Chora — *Naxos town. Photo by Efrem Efre*

The Chora is often the obvious choice for visitors wanting the convenience of a lively town . Naxos has a lovely one, generously spread out along a sprawling promenade, whitewashed cubic volumes rise gently towards the Venetian fortress on a soft peak encircled by its old town. From here, it’s just a 12-minute walk south to the beginning of the island’s magnificent sweep of sandy beaches. For us, however, there are two reasons to stay elsewhere. Parking is a constant stress point if you’re hiring a car, and with Naxos’s growing popularity, the Chora can feel overwhelmed during the height of summer, with crowds that take some of the shine off its charm.

THE BEST CHILD-FRIENDLY BEACHES

Naxos’ beaches are breathtaking. And you don’t have to drive hours or hike kilometers to uncover pristine beauty. The best bit is a long, southwestern stretch that features an endless length of stunning shores. Mostly “organized” (with shaded sun loungers, as they say in Greece), all the comforts of beach cafes are within easy reach. Make a splash, spread out on your sunbed, and retire to a café behind for food and a frappé. Parking is available behind the cafes that back the beach, so if lugging beach toys in the blazing sun is not your thing, you’ve arrived.

Agios Prokopis beach, Naxos — *The luminous waters of Agios Prokopis*.

— MARAGAS – pLAKA—

Agios Prokopis, Agia Anna, Plaka and Mikri Vigla all radiate with aquamarine waters and champagne-coloured shores. Gently shelving and calm, the conditions are perfect for child’s play. Agios Prokopis is particularly stunning with shallower waters, but gets chaotically busy in summer for our liking. If you’re going to enjoy the waters here, we would head to the northern end by Molos cafe and taverna. It’s only a short walk from the nearby parking area, and the crowds thin noticeably, making for a far more relaxing section of the beach.

Sunbeds provided by Peppermint in Plaka
Dining at Peppermint
And a pool

Our preferred part lies south from Maragas – Plaka to Mikri Vigla where the beach gets quieter. Plaka’s other draw is a chic selection of restaurant-cafes spread over swathes of space. Peppermint has the kind of setup that can carry you through an entire day: sunbeds on the beach, a swimming pool for a break from salt water, and a spacious dining area where multiple strollers can be wheeled in endless laps until babies drift off to sleep. A few doors down, Yazoo stands out with creative Cretan-Naxian cuisine, minus any of the pretensions of modern dining.

— MIKRI VIGLA —

From Plaka, the asphalt road to Mikri Vigla soon gives way to dirt. As you approach its gusty north beach bay, a rainbow flurry of kite and windsurfing sails colour the horizon. The “Meltimi” north Aegean summer winds blowing through are an adventurer’s playground. “Ride with the Gods” beckon one of the handful of sea sport centers. Savvy operators have even extended the offering to yoga and Brazilian Jujitsu i.e. activities awash for teenagers.

Continue past the rocky headland to get to Mikri Vigla’s southern bay – our favourite, and top pick for the most child-friendly on the island. Quieter than neighbouring Plaka, only a small section of the shoreline is “organised” with sunbeds and parasols, leaving the rest blissfully undeveloped. Where still and shallow waters stretch out for more than 50 meters, its seabed is free from rocky hindrances. Food and refreshment can be found at Liofagos – the sole no-fuss taverna on the edge of beach, thankfully, it’s a good one. And its final winning feature? The boulder-strewn mini peninsula by the tavern is a natural playground for young explorers and first-time rock-climbers.

Do your kids enjoy a treasure hunt? Look for the Eye of Naxos as you comb the island’s sandy shores. These smooth, polished opercula of sea snails are symbols of good luck and often set into jewellery. We finally found our first, and then two more, at the small swimming bay of Mikri Vigla.

INLAND ADVENTURES

A break from the beach took us on a journey back to 530 B.C. at the Temple of Demeter. Dedicated to the goddess of grain, she blessed the island with fertility and rainfall enough to grow and rear all it needs to feed itself – unique advantages in the otherwise dry and barren Cyclades. Partially restored, svelte pillars and fragmented walls of white Naxian marble stand against a cloudless cobalt blue sky. Combined with imagination and deference to its history, it’s a sight to behold. Easy to reach, the sanctuary is a short and gentle uphill walk from the road where you will park. Few are the trees offering shade, so bring hats and hydration for little ones.

Temple of Demeter, Sangri village, Naxos — *The small, but impressive Temple of Demeter in Sangri*.

There are around twenty villages to explore in Naxos. From the Temple of Demeter, continue into the mountains towards Chalki, Filoti and Apeiranthos.

— chalki—

Tiny Chalki, once the capital and commercial heart of Naxos, is a delightful place to browse for locally crafted treasures. Its compact knot of picturesque lanes, lined with elegant neoclassical villas, hides an eclectic collection of galleries and artisan workshops. Cafe Greco is a convenient parking spot for kids with homemade sweets, while parents steal into Fish and Olive next door – a jewel of an art gallery with exquisite ceramics. Sculpted by internationally accomplished Katharina Bolesch, ethereal fish and olive motifs in the light, airy style of her partner Alexander Reichardt adorn these elegant keepsakes. Maria Maraki’s loom weaving workshop is a few doors down. Using techniques and patterns passed down from her great grandmother, she is one of the islands few remaining artisans who continue to handcraft heritage textile souvenirs of the ancient art.

Just beyond Chalki, stop by Libertas Manolis’ pottery shop for handcrafted ceramics by a fourth-generation family of potters originally from Sifnos, Greece’s famed pottery island. Our girls delighted in water-filled whistling birds—a Montessori-friendly keepsake that pipes out a surprisingly lifelike birdsong—while ceramic pomegranates, a Greek symbol of good fortune and prosperity, make elegant artisan souvenirs to take home.

Manolis also offers pottery workshops (send a whatsapp message to +30 698 599 5451 to arrange) for children and adults. For younger participants (around nine or ten years old), an introductory experience lasting 30 minutes should suffice. As he candidly explains, it’s more about letting children discover the basics of the craft, with much of the shaping still guided by himself.

— f i l o t i —

Spread across the verdant slopes beneath Mount Zeus, Filoti—once the island’s commercial heart—is the largest village on Naxos. Life centres around the leafy square of Gefyra, where cafés spill out beneath towering plane trees. Once tranquil, the main road skirting the square has now become a busy bottleneck of traffic in the height of summer.

— A P E I R A N T H O S —

Beyond Filoti lies Apeiranthos, a striking mountain village hewn from the marble that surrounds it. Perched 600 metres above sea level on the slopes of Mount Fanari, its stone-paved lanes weave between centuries-old houses, where cafés and tavernas pepper every corner. Many open onto terraces with sweeping views across Naxos’s rugged interior—the perfect setting to linger over coffee, crêpes or a leisurely lunch.

Mountain village in Naxos island, Greece — *Apeiranthos mountain village strolls*.

Our recent visit made it clear just how much tourism has grown in Naxos over the past two years. Once a sleepy village, Apeiranthos now bustles with visitors. By 2:30 p.m., almost every taverna along its marble streets was full, with a queue of hungry diners waiting for a table.

In search of respite, we ducked down a flight of stone steps to the hidden courtyard of O Lefteris. Tucked away from the crowds beneath the lacework of light cast by a spreading walnut tree, this traditional taverna offered a welcome pocket of calm. The food delivered, but the painfully slow service tested the patience of many a table around us—perhaps an inevitable side effect of the village’s newfound popularity.

EXPLORING THE MAIN TOWN (& OLD TOWN)

Evening ambles through Greek villages are one of the joys summer days. Naxos’ Chora is a long, large and vibrant one. The famed Portara stands sentinel at one end – a gateway to a superfluity of shops, a dizzying array of wining and dining options, the island’s archaeological museum, car and boat rental operators, and all the amenities to support the island’s 19,000 strong population.

Huddled around a Venetian castle on a hill that forms a natural citadel, wander the quiet alleyways of Old Town that lead uphill for a mesmerizing sunset view. And perhaps a pre-dinner tipple on the rooftop of Avanton 1739. Spurred on by a Frozen- inspired excitement for castles, our 4-year-old (surprisingly) gave us little grief during the climb. The reward? Homemade ice-cream from Aktion on the main waterfront, or profiteroles from Chou Chouro If you have younger ones in your company, consider leaving the stroller behind if you’re going to navigate the backstreets of the main town.

Chou Chorou Profiteroles, Naxos Town — *Assemble your own profiterole at Chou Chorou in the heart of town.*

Metaxi Mas is an intimate wood and stone framed bolthole tucked into a table-lined whitewashed walkway. Warm and welcoming, the littlest kitchen inside turns out the pure flavours of Greek classics at their best. Even the moussaka seems special.

Metaxi Mas Tavern in Naxos Chora, Greece — *Metaxi Mas is popular for a good reason – go early for a table*.

At the same time, dining in the thick of town can feel confined for young wanderers. If you prefer settings nestled in nature, where the kids can scamper within sight while you nurse an ouzo, we’ve rounded up some special finds here.

WHEN TO VISIT

As with most Greek islands, the main tourist season runs from June to September. July and August are peak months (and hottest months) I try to avoid as far as possible.

Shoulder season weather (Spring and Autumn) is always lovely in Greece, keeping in mind that most businesses start to open in April, and close in October. The sliver of weeks in between seasons (early to mid June and early to mid September) is probably the best time to go if you want to enjoy swimming without the searing heat, and with a slice of buzz.

By winter, tourism dwindles and most related businesses close down. But the island, with an established agricultural industry and sizeable (for the Cyclades) resident population, retains some life. There are also mountain villages to explore when blustery seaside towns feel desolate and depressed. While Mediterranean winters are mild, visits at this time are at the risk of cold and wet days.

GETTING THERE

Naxos is straightforward to get to: Catch a quick 40-minute flight from Athens airport, or hop on a 4-hour high-speed ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. If you’re flying in from Europe, you can also use the international airports at Mykonos or Santorini as a point of arrival instead of Athens.

Island-pairing opportunities according to ferry links available can be viewed here. Parked between sought-after Santorini and Mykonos, you can alternatively retreat into peaceful seclusion in Koufonisia, a striking little island paradise a 40-minute boat ride away. This is where you will discover some of the truly best beaches in Greece.

FIND FERRIES TO NAXOS

Put in your planned dates of travel for a view of ferries available:

Getting There:
- Flight from Athens: 40 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 4 hours via fast ferry option
Car Rental: Auto Rent-a-Car which has an airport location.
Eat:
- Avli Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Paradiso Taverna (Agia Anna beach)
- Metaxi Mas (Naxos Town)
- Kastraki Paradise (Kastraki)
- Yazoo Summer Bliss (Plaka)
Drink:
- Cedar Cafe (Plaka beach)
- 520 Bar & Restaurant (Naxos town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (e.g. wipes and pampers).
Official Site for local events, festivals and more: https://www.naxos.gr

Jan 15, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Milos with Kids: Where Little Adventures Meet Otherworldly Beauty

by Lindsay Jan 08, 2020

written by Lindsay

Milos is a showstopper.

Relaxed and exciting, friendly and strange, spectacular adventures are within easy reach on this multifaceted volcanic marvel.

🏖️ 🤿 ⛵ 🏺 🏛️

Last updated: 30 Jul 2024

Straddling the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, the same forces that birthed Santorini created less heard of Milos nearby. A masterpiece of nature epitomising graceful beauty, quite poetically, this is also where the Venus de Milo was unearthed. Filled with unusual sites steeped in history and cinematic beauty, it won’t be long before the multitudes trample on its magic.

Our first visit was as a couple. Then, we had the freedom to sail unencumbered, climb ropes through cliff crevices to reach (then) semi-secret beaches, and muck around in abandoned sulphur mines. We toured the island like first explorers.

Exploring Sarakiniko beach on Milos with kids — *The billowy rocks of Sarakiniko are gentle enough for little ones to explore.*

Nine years later, we returned with two toddlers and a less adventurous itinerary. Other things have changed as well: cruise ships have arrived, you need reservations at restaurants, and the price of sunbeds have climbed to €25 – €50 a pair (as of our last visit in 2024). Still magnetic, we’re now uncovering the family-friendly side of the insta-famous island sensation.

With an array of alluring and varied beaches appropriate for tots and teens, many are the land and sea adventures to be had in landscapes both stunning and strange. It’s also prefect for kids with a rock and crystal obsession, and early lessons in volcanology and geology.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

With children on hand, we’re always on the lookout for a beach house set steps away from dreamy seas. On Milos, however, such stays are surprisingly scarce. The island’s dramatic volcanic coastline leaves relatively few broad, easily accessible beaches, while its thankfully restrained development has kept much of the shoreline free from large-scale accommodation.

Our preferred compromise is to base ourselves in Pollonia, whose gentle village beach is ideal for young children. Next comes hilltop Plaka (and neighbouring Trypiti), where beautiful accommodation is paired with easy access to the island’s highlights, followed by Adamantas, the main port, with Papikinou Beach just a few minutes away.

— ADAMANTAS (MAIN PORT) —

Adamantas harbour is the busiest village in Milos, and where to stay if you prioritise convenience. A marketplace of boutiques, tavernas, cafes and tour agencies, it’s a convenient base for drives to Milos’ major sights, and a main departure point for the island’s popular boat tours.

Especially in the peak summer months of July and August, families might prefer the quieter end where Papikinou beach starts. Not the most impressive beach on the island, it has some plus points: the waters of the protected bay are still and clear, while a dense line of tamarisk trees just meters from the sea offers essential shade from the sweltering sun. It’s the perfect set-up for picnics and quick dips. Hyper popular farm-to-table O! Hamos! is also in the area with sunbeds and umbrellas on its beachfront.

— POLLONIA – PELEKOUDA —

A 20-minute drive from the main port of Adamantas, Pollonia’s intimate bay is perfectly set up for families. Built around a small beach cove backed by a seafront playground (where the girls spent many evenings, nevermind its lackluster state), all your basic amenities are within close proximity. Pollonia is also where the boat to Kimolos (for day trips) depart from.

*Pollonia’s small waterfront dining strip.*

Small and sophisticated, a smattering of shops and smart waterfront restaurants draw a nightly crowd of sunbaked diners from luxe villas nearby. Insider tip: accommodation on the stretch of road where Nefeli Sunset Studios is situated promises mesmerising sunsets that easily rival Santorini’s.

— PLAKA —

Picturesque Plaka is Milos’ quiet hilltop capitalwhere life for the island’s 5,000 strong population converges. Unlike the recent harbour town developments of Pollonia and Adamantas, the ancient village is a quintessential Cycladic-style beauty with traditional appeal. A puzzle of narrow alleyways flanked by whitewashed houses, boutiques and cafés open in the morning, shut for the 2pm siesta, and open again from 6pm to welcome the Mediterranean’s famous late summer nights. After sunset, the village bursts into a nocturnal playground of indulgent dining, drinking, live music (at Kyra in the square on select days, and Kri Kri) and shopping for holiday adornment.

Palaios in Plaka village, Milos, — **Palaios** — Settle in for slow coffee and homemade sweets in the heart of Plaka.

From the parking space at its foot (next to a playground), the initial ascent up is steep. Strollers may be more of a hindrance than a help here, and good walking shoes are best for navigating its streets.

— TRYPITI —

Sleepy Trypiti, a 12-minute walk from Plaka, is scenic and serene. In a prime spot above the stately Agios Nikolaos church overlooking the sea, you will find 2-bedroom Villa De Veneto. As we set foot on its manicured gardens below a string of windmills, the girls took off chasing its resident kitties. It’s the type of countryside living we idealise in the city, touched with the magic of bewitching vistas. Close to Trypiti’s sacred ancient sites, we also found a huddle of eateries at our doorstep: Monk, a morning staple for coffee, Stasi for reliably good pizza and pasta, and Michelin-grade-chef led OKTO for an indulgent dinner.

Steps below the village, you can walk downhill to the renovated ruins of an ancient theatre, close to where the Venus of Milos (one of three female stars of the Lourve) was discovered in 1820. The early Christian Catacombs of Milos are a little farther down.

Agios Nikolaos church in Trypiti, Milos — *The small village of Trypiti is packed with beautiful surprises – dining and otherwise.*

If you’re staying in Plaka or Trypiti, you don’t have to travel far for a swim. Plathenia beach is an 11-minute drive north, with a bar-restaurant to shake-up margaritas for deserving parents while the kids tuck into yoghurt and fruit bowls.

SPECTACULAR SWIMS

It’s a good idea to read the fine print on Milos’ beaches before you load up your car with kids and beach gear. Sarakiniko, the island’s most famous beach, only has a 10-meter stretch of actual shore. Papafragas and Tsigrado too. Firiplaka is uniquely beautiful with its painterly backdrop, but cumbersome for little legs to reach. It may also miss the organised comforts of a beach bar providing sunbeds and umbrellas – operators have come and gone, so check ahead. Provotas has accessible and tot-friendly waters, but sunbed prices have climbed to €50 per pair if you’re prepared for the price tag. So what are your best options with kids?

Paleochori Beach, Milos Island, Greece — *The iridescent waters of Paleochori.*

WHAT TO DO WITH KIDS

— SCALE SARAKINIKO —

Sarakiniko has drawn many-a-tourist to Milos with its fossilized snowscape of wind and wave-whipped tuff. Not a beach, proper, but an inlet with limited sandy shoreline, this is a place for dive-bombing teens instead of frolicking young families.

Sarakiniko Beach in Milos, Greece — *The “beach” in Sarakiniko has a minute shoreline – not ideal for swims with young children*.

An adventure with kids here excites for other reasons: visit for their first “moonwalk” over undulating curves and through curious surroundings. Chasing mound after mound to get higher and higher, we realised a little too late that we were ill equipped in slippers on its dusty surface. Visit in sneakers, and after 6 pm when the afternoon sun relents. Have an appetite for more? Embark on a hike and hunt for marine fossil treasures within its rock strata, following one of six hiking paths drawn up by a team of geologists, mining engineers, foresters, cartographers and historians for Miloterranean.

Parking at Sarakiniko is available close by the entrance marked by a mobile cantina serving refreshment. It’s the only amenity on the shadeless beach, so arrive prepared.

— A BOAT TRIP —

It’s often said you haven’t experienced Milos without a boat tour exploring its craggy coastline of cliffs and impressive sea caves that sheltered pirates prior to the Greek Revolution. On our first trip, we boarded the wooden Thalassitra sailboat like proper tourists. As we drifted from cove to cove, a passionate crew beguiled us with tales of the pirates of the Aegean, serenading us with song and a guitar, then cooking up a storm of soul-warming clay pot dishes. Enjoyable, but packed to its seams, its not something I would do again with young children.

Milos boat tour with Naya Yachting — *Milos’ stunning coastline is best explored by boat.*

A number of yacht cruise companies offer semi-private monohull and catamaran cruises from 10 to 25 persons for a half or full day. Family-run Naya Yachting limits its maximum group size to 14 persons for a 40-foot catamaran. For me, this was the passenger limit to ensure the comfort and shade for all passengers on board. While my girls (4 and 7 years old) fell asleep for an hour or 2 during the full day cruise, they assured me they had a spectacular time and would do it all over again. At €200 a person, I think the trip value is optimised with older children (from 6+ years) who, aside from being strong swimmers (there are 4 swim stops en route), can somersault off the deck.

— THE MINING MUSEUM —

D loves crystals. Collecting them, digging for them in the school playground…So we visit this museum each trip. Small enough for short attentions, the compact but information dense exhibit provides a succinct background of the island’s mining history, its geological makeup, and has a dizzying display of regional rocks and crystals. It’s also a good place for souvenir shopping for crystal-loving friends.

Mining museum in Adamatas, Milos — *Minerals gave livelihoods to Milo’s early residents. Discover its history and geology in the modern mining museum.*

— A POTTERY WORKSHOP —

After days of swimming on repeat, some artistic pursuits might be a good way to break from the beach. Tucked into an alley in the heart of Adamatas, Home of Clay offers clay sculpting and wheel throwing workshops for children (€25 per hour) and adults (€50 per hour). 8-ish years of age is around when hands are deft enough to work on the wheel. It’s a good idea to book ahead 2 or 3 days ahead.

DINING WITH KIDS

Where in Milos can you dine so the kids enjoy themselves as much as the grown-ups? Where there’s space to play, of course. And if they make new friends, everyone may even be hard pressed to leave.

— ASTAKAS KLIMA (KLIMA BAY) —

Our favourite spot to dine on the island by a mile, Astakas Klima is centered on Klima bay, flanked by the brightly painted fishermen houses (“syrmata”) that is the village’s claim to fame. Within the island’s quickly evolving restaurant scene, its quality has stayed consistent, the portions are as generous as they have always been, while easy-going service with sincere smiles puts everyone at ease.

There’s ample space for even the wildest of kids to dash around (or throw stones in the water, or explore the rainbow houses next door) so you can savour your lobster pasta in calm. Also try the zucchini fries – perfectly crisp and cut in the shape of french fries, these were a natural hit with the girls.

Sunset is a beautiful time here. Make reservations if you plan to dine at 9-ish. Otherwise, you might get lucky dropping in if you arrive before 7pm.

— SIROCCO (PALEOCHORI) —

Perched in a corner of stunning Paleochori beach, Sirocco has morphed into a modern chic hotspot since its start as a traditional fisherman’s taverna. If you order sand-baked fish, the kids can watch their foil-wrapped catch go from seafood display to the sand kitchen located steps from the restaurant, where geothermal heat reaches high enough temperatures for a slow 45-minute bake. The menu is otherwise an inspired spin on Greek classics that promise novel bursts of flavour with each spoonful. Run out of diapers? They’ve got you covered in washrooms equipped with changing tables and other helpful parent essentials..

Sirocco Restaurant in Paleochori, Milos — *Sirocco’s sand kitchen.*

— POLLONIA WATERFRONT —

There’s lots to choose from in the seafront line of restaurants, from Gialos with its time-tested reputation for more Greek fare, to Rifaki closer to the beach so the kids can dip their feet. Sushi restaurant Hanabi is inevitably a western mash-up of cream cheese stuffed maki rolls and the odd Thai Tom Kha soup entry, but it nonetheless offered relief from more tomato based recipes.

— KIPOS (NEAR PROVOTAS) —

Modern, minimal, and seductively laid-back, solitary Kipos is built into a hillside with perfect sea views. All is so serene your attention gravitates to the hypnotising dance of wildflowers and rattan lamps in the breeze. Amidst generously spaced out tables, Little A can strike a ballet pose in between bites of their favourite dish on the island – the rigatoni with smoked pancetta and wild mushrooms. The menu is more broadly European with Greek influences (cod fillet in beer batter might appeal to fish-and-chip loving kids) but all is well-executed. And the final winning touch? Sparkling clean toilets (there’s a baby changing room for kids) I can comfortably bring the girls to on their multiple toilet trip requests.

WHEN TO VISIT

With Milo’s rising popularity, early June and September are good times for dodging peak season crowds and the searing heat of July and August. In June, you get longer daylight hours (the sun sets at around 8:30 p.m.) than in September, and sea waters averaging 22.9°C. In September, swimming hovers around a comfortable 24.5°C with waters comfortably warmed up by the summer sun, but daylight hours are shorter than in June (sunset starts at 7:30 p.m.-ish by mid-September). Finally closing for the tourist season in October, the island starts opening up to visitors again in May.

GETTING THERE

You can fly into Milos in 45 minutes from Athens. The modest airport also has international connections to and from London and other major European cities in summer.

Alternatively, the high-speed ferry will get you there in three-and-a-half hours from Pireaus in Athens. It’s a good way to travel if you ‘re considering extending your itinerary in the Cyclades with neighbours that are many and alluring. Sifnos and Serifos sit on the same ferry line for an easy island hop.

FIND A FERRY TO MILOS

Input your planned travel dates for a view of ferry schedules and pricing to Milos from Piraeus.

Jan 08, 2020 0 comment

Cyclades

Dream Small: Koufonisia with Kids

by Lindsay Jan 05, 2020

written by Lindsay

Here, are beaches to bewilder. Not just one, but one after another, and another. All lined up as you walk the coastal edge of this little Cycladic dream.

🏖️🤿🚲👨‍🦯

Last visit and update on 2 Aug 2026

Koufonisia is a nugget-sized treasure with a lost paradise type appeal and a history stretching back to around 3200 BC. There are no luxe hotels or fine dining establishments, but enough of the basics – two bakeries, one pharmacy, two mini-markets, tavernas traditional and contemporary, and a single, small Chora (main town). As those in-the-know catch onto this elysian escape, a new wave of sleek apartment rentals have mushroomed on the island speck, along with a handful of hip café-bars and elegant boutiques. The island’s draw? The best beaches in the Cyclades, and arguably, the country.

Koufonisia Island — *A view towards the town from our Airbnb.*

Where your options are few, choices are refreshingly simple. And if you’re unfazed by hearty walks and beaches basking in all their naked glory, Koufonisia is perfect for family holidays. Especially after you find out that while there’s no car rental service on the island (2026 update: Aeris Suites has started to offer the island’s first electric vehicle rental service), an on-call taxi (tel: +30698 73 37 290 – book ahead) stands ready to zip little legs from point to point.

*These waters… pretty much at every beach on the island.*

GETTING AROUND

Part of Koufonisia’s allure is its size – in its smallness, it feels like your very own near-private isle. Just 3.5 kilometers from one end to another and a basic road network etched in, they say cars are not necessary. If you are child-free and eager on clocking-in 10,000 steps a day, even in the searing heat of the summer sun, we would agree. But with two under four and the usual truckload to cart around, I was delighted to have ours.

Koufonisia Boat Taxi — *A boat taxi makes its stop at Finikas beach.*

Otherwise, families were carting pram-loads of bottled water (tap water is not drinkable on most water-scarce Greek islands) from mini-mart to villa. The upside – gently hilly, the island’s terrain is not difficult. It’s actually ideal for older children ready for their first hiking and biking adventures (bike rental services are available). There’s also a boat taxi service shuttling from beach to beach every half hour from 8am to 8pm. Tickets are sold at the port.

WHERE TO STAY WITH KIDS

Life and habitation in Koufonisia center around its south eastern shores. If you don’t have a car and with babies, it’s a good idea to select accommodation in or near the Chora. The nearby port beach is an impressive one, and likely the most beautiful port beach you will ever find. Protected from fierce meltimi winds that blow across the Aegean in summer, it’s typically also the calmest beach on the island where babies and toddlers gather. If you need to expand the search area, I’d do it in the direction towards Finikia and Fanos beaches where you are likely to be spending some beach days.

EASY HIKES & DREAMY DIPS

On an island of just 400 residents, a collective determination to protect the coastline against the rising tide of tourism has ensured its six beaches remain blissfully untouched by rows of sunbeds. “Unorganised” as they say in Greece, be prepared to bring shade and mats. Your accommodation might come equipped with beach umbrellas and foldable chairs. If not, you can find them in the island’s mini-marts. And if it’s all starting to sound a little too complicated, the taverna-cafe on Fanos beach has loungers and umbrellas on its terrace perched just above the shore.

Fanos Taverna Koufonisia, Greece — *The only beach umbrellas you will find on the island at Fanos beach cafe*

Starting from Ammos port beach, a coastal walking path leads you to heavenly Pori up north (40 minutes on foot), scalloped by the powder-white coves of Finikas, Fanos and Italida en route. Calm, crystal clear, and shallow for a generous length out into the sea, all have aquamarine waters that are ideal for splashing toddlers. At Finikas and Fanos, tamarisk trees lining the shore’s edge offer some feathery shade if you snag a spot early enough. Finikas has the added benefit of a homespun taverna with some standout dishes (try the oven roasted goat oven and octopus in red wine sauce). Like everything else on the island, service is slow in high summer in spite of stretched staff darting around, so arrive relaxed. Fanos also has a cafe and restaurant, but you are likely to dine better at Finikas.

Finnikas taverna on Koufonisia — *Seafood and more by the dreamiest of seas at Finikas’ restaurant.*

The waters at Italida are similarly stunning. Without direct road access, its relative seclusion attracts more nudists than usual.

Pori beach in the north-east is the island’s main event. A luminous omega-shaped bay of surreal iridescence, it’s also shallow and invitingly child-friendly for swimming. Natural shade is spartan, so arrive equipped, although umbrellas often have a hard time battling the gusty winds that blow in these parts – bring hammering stakes, ropes and anchors. This is not a beach to miss.

Paradise found – Pori beach.
The shallow, protected waters of Pori.
Rockscapes to explore between beach dips.

Pori’s other attraction is Kalofego restaurant and bar – a rustic-chic oasis with an inventive menu of skillfully executed dishes. Embracing the Cycladic vernacular, boxy sand-hued volumes topped with thatched bamboo roofs, wood furniture, and oversized terracotta pot adornment imbue a warm enchantment. Also thoughtfully equipped with a bar that shakes up beautifully boozy cocktails (which you can take away to the beach), we were in a slice of paradise. Work off your meal after by exploring the impressive coves and rock cliff formations behind Pori beach.

*Kalofego restaurant and bar in Pori gets busy, so go early.*

ABOUT TOWN

Koufonisia’s Chora is a single-street patchwork of elegant shops and enticing cafes, bars and eateries that feel more city than tiny Cycladic island. It’s also one that’s eager to please with a surprisingly varied food scene. While mornings see early-risers fuel the day with eggs and matcha lattes in packed-out cafes, by evening, swanked up, sun-bronzed diners fill tavernas traditional and elevated (Armira & Pioto is our town favourite). Since our first visit in 2018, prices have climbed by more than 40%, along with restaurants’ seating capacities. Some have expanded into neighbouring garden plots once left abandoned, creating atmospheric courtyards where tables sit beneath softly illuminated fig and olive trees. While expensive, development so far has been tasteful, thankfully.

Or perhaps, like us, you’ll find yourself lingering over a seaside taverna lunch at four in the afternoon after a slow start to the day and a homemade breakfast. We leave just enough room for a stroll back into the Chora in search of something sweet—gelato, honey-drenched loukoumades or a towering soft serve at Laggona (also a great coffee stop). And if, somehow, the children announce they’re hungry again an hour later, there’s always souvlaki. Dining schedules get impossibly confusing for me in summer.

More village walks.
The playground by St. George’s Church.

Uninterrupted by stairs and characterised by a wider-than-usual, gently sloping walkway, unlike most other Greek island villages, you won’t have trouble pushing a stroller though.

Koufonisia Chora at sunset — *Quiet and wider-than-usual alleyways in the Chora (main town)*.

WHEN TO VISIT

In the first two weeks of June, the waters have warmed up enough so your first sea dive feels refreshing rather than bracing. The afternoon sun is also not as intense as it gets in July and August – quite important on an island where most travel on foot. June and early September are also always a better time than July and August for avoiding heatwaves, finding space on the beach, securing the best accommodation (start the search early – good options are limited), and smaller dents in budgets.

GETTING THERE

For a diamond of a find, Koufonisia is not hard to get to. While it doesn’t have an airport, neighbouring Naxos (with an airport) is just a 40-minute ferry ride away. Otherwise, the fastest journey on a vessel departing from Athens’ Pireaus port takes 5 hours. Not short, but the Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 4 ferry offers cafe-style seating for a more bearable ride.

Even if you discover that you’re not quite the personality for do-nothing trips in quiet solitude, it’s not difficult to change your plans. A plethora of exciting new worlds, each with its own distinct personality, lie in the surrounding Cyclades (e.g. Mykonos and Paros are close by). For more island hopping inspiration, refer to our post on possible itineraries.

FIND A FERRY TO KOUFONISIA

There was a time when the only way to reach Koufonisia was aboard the rickety Express Skopelitis, the family-owned ferry linking the Small Cyclades. Today, fast ferries have arrived—and with them, larger crowds. Input your planned travel dates for ferry schedules and pricing to Koufonisia from Pireaus port.

Getting There:
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 5 hours and 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
- Ferry from Naxos: 30 minutes via high-speed ferry.
Where We Stayed: Keros Airbnb Villa
Eat:
- To Kyma (Ammos Beach) for breakfast.
- Aneplora Taverna (Parianos Bay) for lunch or dinner, although it may get hot at lunch.
- Kalofego Cafe Restaurant & Bar (Pori Beach) for lunch or dinner.
- Armira Kai Pioto (Main town) for dinner.
Drink:
- Sorokos Bar
- Mylos Bar (Chora)
Baby Supplies: There is no large supermarket on the island. Just one pharmacy and mini-marts where we were able to find wipes, pampers, and food essentials (e.g. eggs, yoghurt, milk, cheese and fruit).

Jan 05, 2020 0 comment

Destinations

Crete – Where to Start with Little Ones on Greece’s Largest Island

by Lindsay Jan 02, 2020

written by Lindsay

Where the sun shines a little longer, southerly Crete is an all-in-one island expanse with iconic archaeological attractions, lofty summits, cerulean seas, and intriguing local flavour.

As Greece’s largest island, the breadth of its attractions are also scattered far and wide. Discovering Crete takes selectivity (unless you plan on spending weeks), time for road trips, and the patience of Gandhi for kids. In its largeness is also the advantage of having everything families might need – plentiful accommodation options, diverse attractions, and practical considerations like hospitals and shops for baby supplies. Of its three main cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, Chania is our favourite and the focus here.

Chania harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque — *Chania’s iconic harbour and Kucjk Hassan mosque.*

With a handsome Venetian-styled harbour, striking Ottoman mosque, and a romantic Egyptian lighthouse perched out at sea, a medley of influences make Chania’s Chora (town) a colourful one. Vibrant and spirited, a narrow maze of back streets bustle with shops, cafes and tavernas that come alive with the setting sun (as they do in Greek villages).

*The historic heart of Chania. Photo credit: Andreas Pajuvirta*

WHERE TO STAY

Bluebell Luxury Suites in the heart of the old town is in a perfect location to base yourself on a first trip. Next to an enviable selection of eateries, you will dine better here than on the touristy waterfront stretch. Tucked away from the bustling harbourside, but still close enough, it’s a good spot if you’re seeking city center accommodation. From here, our morning walks took us to Pallas for breakfast. Continuing with a stop at Starbucks in the town center (Crete is one of the few Greek islands with a Starbucks presence), I relished in the company of a Frappuccino for the road trip ahead in search of beach.

Many of Crete’s magnificent beaches are found on the west coast, a 1 hour to 1.5 hours drive out from Chania’s center. Kissamos village, between the western coastal attractions and Chania town, is an alternative accommodation option. A huge plus that speaks directly to the Singaporean mom in me? Archaeolab has an office here, organising the coolest kids programmes including simulated archeological digs year-round. There’s also a small port in Kissamos for boat tours to Balos beach. Alternatively, Falasarna Private Cruises offers private tours which depart daily from the small port in Falasarna.

BEACHES AND BLUE LAGOONS

Balos and Elafonisi probably need no introduction as beaches that are beyond beautiful. Crystalline ankle-high waters lap over expansive spits of sand in these fantastical waterparks of ever-changing beauty.

If you had to choose one, Elafonisi is the child-friendlier choice. Getting to Balos requires a one kilometer hike (or a boat trip) on an unshaded and stony-pathed trek. Especially in the searing summer heat, I don’t recommend taking kids under 5 for this journey. In contrast, parking is available right behind Elafonisi beach for a fuss-free start to a day. Both beaches are organised with umbrellas, sunbeds and a canteen serving drinks. Both are also wildly popular, so go early to secure loungers during peak season.

Elafonisi beach, Crete — *The shallow lagoon of Elafonisi is perfect for little paddlers.*

The windy road to Elafonisi cuts through mountain villages and Topolia gorge where a 1.5 kilometre hiking path runs through, starting from Strovles village and ending in Topolia village. Spiliaraki in serene and scenic Topolia serves an impressive omelet for a traditional café. Encouraged by the successful breakfast, we returned for dinner to their relative’s tavern (Arxontas) a 5-minute drive away. Set amidst sprawling garden grounds set by a trickle of river, here, we were embraced in true Cretan tradition by enthusiastic village hosts who served like they were sharing a meal in their home.

Ranking high on our list of favourite beaches in Greece is Falasarna. An endless sweep of soft, white sand, sparkling shallow waters stretch far into the horizon before graduating onto deeper hues of blue. Like swimming in nature’s own infinity pool, the feeling of freedom is palpable, and the majesty of its beauty, overwhelming. Also family-friendly, parking is located directly behind the beach. While a number of beach bars and cafes have planted parasols and sunbeds on the beach, it doesn’t feel overcrowded engulfed by the expanse of its shores. Beyond sandwiches and juice, a handful of tavernas lie within close range for pre or post-swim meals. Check the wind intensity before you go – rolling waves on windy days might prove difficult for fledging swimmers to battle with.

Falasarna beach, Crete — *The crystal waters of Falasarna’s endless shoreline.*

View of Falasarna at sunset, Crete — *Falasarna at sunset, with a view of the greenhouses and fields blanketing the area.*

DESTINATION DINING

— GRAMVOUSSA —

Gramvoussa is a mandatory restaurant stop we make on road trips back from Falasarna or Balos. Set in an impressive stone villa in the quiet village of Kaliviani, it’s a dining experience straight from the pages of Town and Country. On a pre-meal wander with little D through the compound, we stumble onto a fruit and vegetable garden patch waiting to move from farm to fork. All is lovingly prepared in Cretan tradition using ancient techniques that birth a glorious complexity of flavours.

— AKROGIALI —

If a quest for authenticity demands you dine like a local, on the outskirts of Chania town is Akrogiali. Located on the waterfront, the nondescript restaurant in a nondescript residential area serves standout seafood. Sardines grilled to succulent, but crisp perfection alternate with slow sips of ouzo. Next to a boardwalk fronting the sea, twitchy tots can slip away for a quick stroll as you wait for food to be served.

— PATRELANTONIS —

Local friends also suggested Patrelantonis on off-grid Marathi beach. A half-hour drive from Chania town, we joined other in-the-know diners in a queue for a table by the sea. The wait was rewarded by a seafood spread that left only memories of a sumptuous meal in spite of the tardy service.

OFF-BEACH

If your schedule shows more variety than our own usually languid summer days, a plethora of other attractions beckon exploration. Samaria Gorge is the island’s largest (and Europe’s second largest), over an hour’s drive from Chania. The Bronze Age Minoan Palace of Knossos up north is another impressive must-visit. A 2-hour drive from Chania, it’s probably best visited on an itinerary that incorporates Heraklion and the resort-pocked north-east of Crete, including Lasithi with its palm tree fringed Vai beach. And down south, a line of other raw, rugged and striking shores including Preveli, Matala and Agiofarago.

WHEN TO VISIT

Enjoying a warmer-than-usual-for-Greece climate, Crete is a good option for an extended summer season. Trips during the less traditional times of late May to early June, or late September to early October, reward with fewer crowds, less heat, and a more affordable vacation.

GETTING THERE

A highly popular destination accounting for one-sixth of Greece’s tourist arrivals, Crete is well connected by air and sea. There are two international airports located in Chania and Heraklion. Ferry ports on its northern coast, including Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno also connect with islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese.

FIND A FERRY TO CHANIA

Input your planned travel dates to find ferry schedules from Pireaus (Athens) to Chania Port.

Getting There (Chania):
- Flight from Athens Airport: 1 hour
- Flight from Thessaloniki Airport: 1 hour 10 minutes
- Ferry from Piraeus, Athens: 6 hours 30 minutes
Car rental: We rented from Kydon Car Rental with an airport location
Where We Stayed: Bluebell Luxury Suites (Old Chania Town)
Eat:
- Petralontonis Seafood (Marathi)
- Gramvoussa (Kissamos)
- Akrogiali Seafood Tavern (a little outside the main Chania Town)
Drink:
- Pallas Cafe (Chania Town)
Supermarket for baby supplies: AB Supermarket and Sklavenitis (refer to map below). Pharmacies and mini-marts scattered all around should also stock essentials (wipes and pampers). Jumbo is a large discount store with baby gear, clothes, toys and lots more.
Official Site: https://www.incrediblecrete.gr/

Jan 02, 2020 0 comment

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